Stuee's 101 Rebuild

[stuee]

As per my introductory post (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/fcs-military-variations/128380-new-101-owner.html) this is going to be my rebuild thread for my newly acquired 101.

My work area is a semi-enclosed car port down the side of the house, not ideal but it does the job and keeps the whole thing out of sight from my girlfriend :angel:. The following pic gives an idea of what I'm working with, I'm still relatively agile so working around it is not too difficult. I see things becoming a lot easier once I have a rolling chassis.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/1431.jpg

First job is to prep the chassis for galvanising. I have been a bit indecisive in regards to this but I am happy to go ahead with it now after further research and asking enough questions. I needed to fix the steering relay mounting and re-drill some body mount holes on a outrigger that was replaced (to mirror the fuel tank set-up on the passenger side).

I thought the outrigger was way off, but in actual fact it doesn't seem that bad compared to the standard land rover tolerances on the rest of the chassis. I've re-drilled the holes as per the markings and now just need to fill up the excess.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/1432.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/1433.jpg

The steering bracket had been warped while being welded on and the bottom plate which it clamps to protruded to far into the hole. A bit of grinding, cutting, heating and bashing and its able to hold the steering relay once more:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/1434.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/1435.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/1436.jpg

Its just the welding to do now. If I cant borrow one off a friend I'm undecided if I should buy one (only a 130amp inverter arc jobie) or hire one. Once I've done that Ill bee sending the chassis, my rims, and some misc brackets to the galvaniser :cool:

[The ho har's]

this is a great post....you have been around for a long time..but I think you need to put in REMLR pojects as that is where will get lots of advice;):D

Are you a REMLR member yet...it is free just have to sign up;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[stuee]

this is a great post....you have been around for a long time..but I think you need to put in REMLR pojects as that is where will get lots of advice;):D

Are you a REMLR member yet...it is free just have to sign up;)

Mrs hh:angel:

I've never really ventured into the REMLR section having only previously owned a "civilian" spec LR :D. If people think it will get more interest in the project section there I'm happy for the mods to move it. Similarly, I've not looked at the membership, I always thought it was more for ex-Aus military LR's but having a look now that doesn't appear to be the case. I've downloaded the membership form so Ill fill that out and send it off during the week.

Some other good restoration projects on the go there so hopefully this one will fit right in :cool:

Cheers,
Stuart

[mike 90 RR]

... Heck of a project you've started .. :eek:

I have a (Stick) ark welder you can borrow ... :)

[stuee]

... Heck of a project you've started .. :eek:

I have a (Stick) ark welder you can borrow ... :)

Cheers Mike. I'll give you a shout before the end of the week to arrange pick up. Your welcome to drop by after work one day and have a look if your keen, just let me know during the day so I can get home in time (and pick up some beers!!).

It is a heck of a project but its a nice change compared to working on EFI drama's on the Discovery :D

Only progress since the weekend was the delivery of a set of polybushes from the UK. Ordered from Devon 4x4 as they were a heap cheaper than ordering direct from the manufacturer but postage was just rude so I'm going to have to do large orders to save $$$ in the future.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/1362.jpg

[stuee]

Been quite busy since my last post, not on the 101 but with work and more importantly getting a new job!! Sorry I didnt call you Mike, was stressing too much waiting for a phone call back from my new employer, then when it came I decided to go out and buy a new welder with my dad!!

Anyway onto the 101. I have finally organised to get the chassis galvanised through a company my dad's work uses. I've secured a good rate and have assurances the chassis will be looked after :)

Also started painting some suspension bits so hopefully its ready to bolt up when the chassis comes back. This firstl lot of bits I'm doing to see how durable the finish is.

Freshly cleaned and primed parts:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/380.jpg

Steering relay, was plenty of rust and grime on this but still seems to be in reasonable nic:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/381.jpg

A few coats of MotorSpray subframe paint later:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/382.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/383.jpg

If this finsih turns out okay I'll have to do all this stuff next:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/384.jpg

Then the next challenge will be dissasembling the leaf packs, cleaning and repainting:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/162.jpg
Have to figure out the best way to bend these clamps so I can seperate the leaves:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/163.jpg

[The ho har's]

Then the next challenge will be dissasembling the leaf packs, cleaning and repainting:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/162.jpg
Have to figure out the best way to bend these clamps so I can seperate the leaves:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/163.jpg


Heat them up til they are cherry red, we used a oxy, and straighten them with a cold chisel, the same to bend them back;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[101RRS]

I would be tempted to leave the spring packs intact. There are only two leaves in each pack and you can put a small wedge between them at the center to get just enough space to blast any crap out and clean etc. Being two leaf parabolics there is not much friction anyway.

Ask is it really necessary to pull these apart and will any benefit be really worth it - after one good drive off road in the mud they will be back dirty etc.

My 101 has nearly 130,000km has been all over Aust and lived in some salty environments - I have never had the springs off and it rides really well for what it is.

Garry

[stuee]

Ask is it really necessary to pull these apart and will any benefit be really worth it - after one good drive off road in the mud they will be back dirty etc.

Not really. Only reason I wanted to pull them apart was to clean them up (mud caked in between the leaves) and give them a new coat of paint. You got me thinking though, I'll blast out in between as you suggest and paint what I can. I've not driven the thing on the road so I have no idea on how the springs ride, and would seem pointless to pull them apart only to have to have it done a second time if their naffed.

[101RRS]

I can assure you the springs will be fine (unless there is something really obvious) - they really do not sag and on the vehicle in the unloaded state they are flat with no curvature - loaded they are not much difference.

However I do agree that you need to be happy with them. They do break (rarely) but with only two leaves it is normally obvious.

The 101s ride really well - except sitting over the front wheels it is a bit more bouncy than in a mid control vehicle. It is a function of where you are sitting rather than the springing.

Garry

[stuee]

Just cleaned and started priming a few more bits today.

Freshly cleaned parts:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/99.jpg

Started priming them:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/100.jpg

[The ho har's]

Geee I hope you have asked permission to put all those parts on the kitchen table:o

looking good there:) keep up the fantastic effort:cool:

Mrs hh:angel:

[stuee]

Only been painting bits this past week and not happy with how they turned out :mad:. It seems the motospray subframe paint is either very soft, takes more than week to harden fully or is completely incompatible with white night primer (very possible but the guy who sold it to me believed otherwise...).

The paint does seem to be quite soft though, I can scratch the finish with my fingernail, so perhaps it has been designed that way, ie a rock will just dent the finish, as opposed to chip it :confused::confused: NFI really, could just be me not being able to handle a spray can.

edit** Only other thing I can think that may be causing it is the cool weather. I did make sure to only paint when the temps where above 10 degrees, but perhaps this could be why its not curing properly??

This photo shows all the bits in a nice shiny black:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1247.jpg

This next photo shows how the paint has rubbed off onto the cardboard. Thinking it might be because it was painted yesterday, I tried rubbing a part I painted last weekend and sure enough, it rubbed off the same way cheese would rub off on sand paper :(
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1248.jpg

Not sure what to do now. The White Night primer seems to be quite tough, so I think any other parts will get a coat of white night enamel instead of this motospray stuff. Then as these bits chip or scrape off I will pull them off, strip them back and repaint again, not going to do it now as I will probably get depressed at the wasted effort and not touch it for weeks.

Good news is I'm taking the chassis, wheels and bumper in this week for galvanising. Not sure when I'll pick it up though as my last day of work at my current job is Friday and with drinks to follow it wont be picked up after work. My dad may be kind enough to pick it up for me, but I just have to be in a state to help unload it on Saturday :wasntme:

edit2** more crappy paint:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1249.jpg

[101RRS]

Why wurry - it will all be gone after your first decent trip offroad:o

[stuee]

Why wurry - it will all be gone after your first decent trip offroad:o

:eek::eek::eek:

Basically I'm just wanting a finish that will keep everything rust free for however long I own the truck.

[101 Ron]

Use enamel harder additive (enamel add) as it will do Three things.
1/ makes the paint dry very quickly.....2 hours or sooner
2/ makes standard paint alot harder and stronger.
3/ Adds extra gloss to the paint.
just spray over the paint you already have done.
Do not put back paint from the spray gun with enamel add in it back into the tin or you will loose the lot.
I am using standard protec enamel paint (304) with enamel add on the Stalwart I am playing with currently and getting good results in the cool weather.
On sand blasted surfaces I am not using a primer, but spraying the colour straight on with good results.
Expect to pay just under 50 dollars for a small tin of enamel add, but it will do a large amount of paint.
The other thing I have found if using flat paint , you can get that paint to semi gloss or gloss finish using enamel add.
Ron

[101 Ron]

I think the paint you are using for the final finish/colour may not be the best.
Look for a Protec paint dealer....aussie made and good paint.
4 litres of enamel will cost about 75 dollars.

[101 Ron]

Sorry I just noticed you are using aerosol cans....motorubbish aersol paint is rubbish.
You would need to go to Holts range of aerosol paints at a far greater price.
The problem is the cost of buying good aerosol paint is expensive and the dearest form of painting.
Cheap 2hp compressor from super cheap auto with a spray gun and regulator may be easier in the long term and will save money on bigger jobs as well is being able to use the compressor for other things.

[chazza]

I bring my small parts inside and let them get warm near the fire after painting.

I agree with you that the cold weather is probably the problem,

Cheers Charlie

[stuee]

Sorry I just noticed you are using aerosol cans....motorubbish aersol paint is rubbish.
You would need to go to Holts range of aerosol paints at a far greater price.
The problem is the cost of buying good aerosol paint is expensive and the dearest form of painting.
Cheap 2hp compressor from super cheap auto with a spray gun and regulator may be easier in the long term and will save money on bigger jobs as well is being able to use the compressor for other things.

I have been offered the use of a compressor and paint gun by my little brother, I may have to take him up on that offer now. Had been eying off the bunnings 2-2.5hp compressors, both are under $150...

Thanks for the heads-up on the motospray quality and tip about aerosol cans.


I bring my small parts inside and let them get warm near the fire after painting.

I agree with you that the cold weather is probably the problem,

Cheers Charlie

Yep, any other small bits I will bring inside soon after painting to see if this helps the paint cure. Have bought this last batch in but I think they may be a lost cause.

[stuee]

Just a quick update, my dad picked up the first batch of my galvanised parts for me today that include the chassis, 5 rims, front bumper, and a few other miscellaneous bits. He'll be bringing it around tomorrow so I will post up pictures then. Had a look on the way home though and it looks great. Impressive to see everything so shiny :p

Only problem with my new job is that the hours are longer now so cant really do anything after work any more, but I do have every second Friday off to work on the beast uninterrupted!!

[stuee]

Pictures as promised:

Unloading operation - just me and my dad getting it off the trailer with the help of an engine crane:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/676.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/677.jpg

Sitting in place waiting to have a good scrub down prior to painting (hopefully Sunday next week):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/678.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/679.jpg

[mrapocalypse]

That is looking very very good.

[stuee]

Got my first RDO with my new job tomorrow. Main thing I'm hoping to get done is get the tyres fitted to the newly galved rims. This will make it a lot easier to move the axles around as they are extremely heavy. Hopefully I will have time to finish wire brushing the axles and springs ready for painting on Sunday. Saturday is 4wding.

Only problem is its been raining quite a bit over here lately which is making it difficult to work on everything as I lack an enclosed workshop :(

On a more positive note, current plan is to have the chassis rolling within a month which will give me a bit of space back and make it easier to work on. Will then look at mounting the engine and gearbox to get them off the ground and make it look like I've actually made progress. Much nicer looking out at a shiny chassis now though :D

[Mick_Marsh]

Just a thought, have you considered painting the chassis black with something like POR-15 after the galvanising?

[stuee]

Just a thought, have you considered painting the chassis black with something like POR-15 after the galvanising?

Actually just forked out for a KBS chassis kit and Black Top paint to go over the top of the bits that will see sunlight. Got put onto this by a mate and very impressed with the finish of it. On top of this I will wax/oil the inside of the chassis once done. Should hopefully be able to watch everything rot around the chassis when done :p

[Mick_Marsh]

I'm so impressed with that chassis, when you've finished, want to do mine?

[101RRS]

Saturday is 4wding.

Well you need to get a wriggle on if it is going to be ready on time :D.

[stuee]

Well you need to get a wriggle on if it is going to be ready on time :D.

:eek: Still got my other money pit I can go play in :D


I'm so impressed with that chassis, when you've finished, want to do mine?

Not much to it when you buy a completely stripped down vehicle, although I felt getting the chassis on and off the trailer with two people was a piece of art :p Kudos must go to the previous owner for much of the repairs, I really just had to complete a few bits and then drop it off to the galvaniser. The biggest problem was identifying any leftover bitumen coating as it doesn't get removed during any part of the process. Its also a pain to remove from tight places. I'm told an oxy can burn it off but I didnt have one available.

Fero Galv here in Perth did the galv work for me. They did a fantastic job, I've been very happy with the finished product.
Welcome to Fero (http://www.fero.com.au/)

[stuee]

Doesn't feel like I achieved much this weekend. Missed out on 4wding by 45 minutes, mainly thanks to a work dinner the night before... Also didn't get around to any painting as the prep work is taking a lot longer than I anticipated. Reflecting on the weekends progress I think I should have borrowed a trailer and taken the the diffs to be sand blasted. Going over with a wire brush wheel has been hard work and its not been reaching a lot of the hard to reach spots. Paint stripper and a pressure washer really only helped remove the loose stuff which I'm hoping should be okay.

Also the outer bush shells in the leaf springs are harder than I expected to remove :mad:

Some pics. Diffs after cleaning, and leaves after rubber bush removal:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/277.jpg

Best finish I have been able to achieve in hard to reach spots:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/278.jpg

[The ho har's]

Looking good there:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[stuee]

Removed the outer shells remaining rubber bushings today. Was the crapest job I've had to do to date but got there in the end.

Method I used was to cut to parallel slots about 5-10mm apart, knock out that section with a small cold chisel then knock the shell out. Did the first two with a hack saw then invested in a new toy for the rest :twisted:. With the leaf springs I tried opening the eye of the spring up by hammering in a chisel, but this method didn't work for me.

Prep has been taking ages but even if I was ready for painting, its really been raining too much lately for me to start.

Pulling out of leaf springs:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1400.jpg

The remaining six shells I got out of the leaf springs today in a lesser time it took me to take two out last weekend with a hacksaw:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1401.jpg

The chassis shells. The rears were the hardest to get out, but by the last shell I had a system worked out that would probably halve the time I would take if I did it again (but I wont have to because I'm fitting polybushes :D).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1402.jpg

The new toy :twisted:. Will also use this to help replace some rotted roof timbers. Will mean I wont have to remove half of the roof tiles to reach everything. (Blade is upside down to reduce the angle of attack to try and prevent gouging the bush housings).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1403.jpg

[RobHay]

I bring my small parts inside and let them get warm near the fire after painting.

I agree with you that the cold weather is probably the problem,

Cheers Charlie

I wait for the missus to go out....have to be sure that she is going to be gone for a reasonable time....so may have to hand over the credit card.....Then....go out side and spray like mad.....then bring all your fiddley bits in, I use ply sheets to lay them on and stick them in the oven :o then turn on to 150 degrees and then when oven gets up to temp. I turn off and allow to cool in the oven. Paint is rock hard. I use Protec or other high quality paint.........Then all you have to do is make up plausable excuse for why the sunday roast tastes like %@*%:D;):p

[stuee]

Was determined to get some paint on this weekend. Alas, I've been set back as the ground has been pulled from beneath me, literally...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1140.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1141.jpg

Was hitting the leaf springs with a flapper disc and I felt the ground drop about 6-8 inches below me, very strange sensation I might add, then killed the grinder and did my best crab walk impression as I attempted to get out of the hole. Each step seemed to push the ground in further before I got out of the hole :eek:

It appears to be an old septic tank from before the house was connected to the sewer mains. Will fill it up next weekend and get back to preparing for paint tomorrow :D

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Stuee

I hope you didn't fall into a depression.

I had a slightly different problem, went to couple up a extra toilet to the septic tank and found a brick lined hole covered with a very rotten sheet of corrugated iron, instead. The cost of finding that out, put our, the wife and myself's, finances back for years.

Enjoying your story about the rebuild.

Cheers Arthur

[digger]

Was hitting the leaf springs with a flapper disc and I felt the ground drop about 6-8 inches below me, very strange sensation I might add, then killed the grinder and did my best crab walk impression as I attempted to get out of the hole. Each step seemed to push the ground in further before I got out of the hole :eek:

It appears to be an old septic tank from before the house was connected to the sewer mains. Will fill it up next weekend and get back to preparing for paint tomorrow :D



I reckon you are lucky you didnt end up in the ****!!

(please swear filter -do you thing!!)

[stuee]

Well I've been doing my best to ignore the sink hole and have finally got some paint on some various bits and pieces.

Prepped springs and diffs:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/817.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/818.jpg

Painted Springs and diffs:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/819.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/820.jpg

Inside of the front bumper:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/821.jpg


Self levelling paint means it comes out nice and shiny. Unfortunately this type of paint does not appear to reflect hair :o:eek:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/822.jpg

The paint is KBS Rust Seal (Aussie made POR15 equivalent). Its a polyurethane type paint that cures with moisture and supposedly sets rock hard, and is fairly difficult to chip or scratch. It takes around 4 days to cure fully but I will feedback how well it goes. Its not UV stable so will fade if exposed to sunlight for extended periods of time but all the above bits should be fine underneath the car. For the bumpers and any parts that face direct sunlight I will overcoat with KBS Blacktop, which is just a UV stable top coat.

Tomorrow I will be coating the chassis and the other side of the springs and bumper. Once I've finished painting all the bits that I prepped I will get onto the sink hole. Didn't want to have dust go over everything that I spent ages cleaning.

[stuee]

More painting completed. During the week or next weekend it should be rolling :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1214.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1215.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1216.jpg

The unpainted bits will be getting coated with a UV stable paint.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1217.jpg

[stuee]

I forgot to post up the pics of my latest toys (forum keeps quiting on me!!).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/369.jpg

These are NES thread repair tools I got delivered from my local tool store. They made cleaning the bolts I've painted a breeze and work well to repair any squashed or damaged threads. Means I don't have to hit each bolt with a wire brush wheel on the grinder because the mud and rust is too well baked on. They will also be used to clear any excess paint off if it turns out I have gunked up[ the threads on the bolts too much.

They are a good bit of kit, pricey, but cheaper than buying a high quality chaser kit or tap and die set.

Before:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/370.jpg

After:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/371.jpg

[wrinklearthur]

Becks cutting fluid ?

Cheers Arthur

[stuee]

Becks cutting fluid ?

Cheers Arthur

Havent tried using it for that yet :p

[stuee]

Rolling :cool:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1220.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1221.jpg

Random close-up, brakes and brake lines are next. Looking at a flaring and cutting kit for brake line.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1222.jpg

Was really quite surprised how tall the chassis sits. This is going to be a big beast when its put back together!!

[The ho har's]

Looking good there stuee...wheels certainly make things easier:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[MR LSD]

More painting completed. During the week or next weekend it should be rolling :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1214.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1215.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1216.jpg

The unpainted bits will be getting coated with a UV stable paint.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1217.jpg Wow you make me so jealous would love a fc, could you tell me where did you get your galvanizing and blasting done what are you doing about stripping body parts I would like to soda blast it all but don’t know what to do what was the cost. Your help would be lovely thank you Simon

[Dinty]

G'day All,
Mate that looks the ducks gutz;), right up my alley, great work, keep it rolling,:angel: cheers Dennis

[stuee]

Wow you make me so jealous would love a fc, could you tell me where did you get your galvanizing and blasting done what are you doing about stripping body parts I would like to soda blast it all but don’t know what to do what was the cost. Your help would be lovely thank you Simon

I haven't personally had any sand blasting done as the previous owner has already had the chassis blasted and 95% of repairs carried out. When I do get around to getting the body blasted I will be using this mob:
Home - stripped-bare, Perth's longest serving soda blasting company (http://stripped-bare.com.au/)

Mainly because they appear to have a good rep, offer a priming service and are located close to my new workplace. On a side note I have heard negative comments regarding soda blasting aluminum panels, with some saying unless they are washed thoroughly immediately after then you risk having them corrode quite severely (bad reaction between media and alum). Don't know how true it is as I didn't bother looking into it further but the above mob use their own media which I've been told is safe. I'm also yet to get quotes for blasting and priming as I'm waiting till the chassis is nearly finished (fuel and brake lines, engine, transmission etc), only due to lack of $$ to go all out atm.

I had the galvanizing done through Fero Galv. Their rates are around $2/kg. I ended up paying just under $500 at mates rates and that included the Chassis, front bumper, 5 rims, and inner and outer wheel arches. I highly recommend this mob and was very happy with the service and finish. Like any other galv joint though, they take no responsibility for chassis warping so its dip at your own risk. They may also need to drill additional holes for drainage, if they are not happy with your prep work.

[stuee]

Looking good there stuee...wheels certainly make things easier:D

Mrs hh:angel:

Certainly does, also means I can stand on the chassis and bounce it up and down (the closest I can get to sitting in the seat and making car noises atm :p)

I do have a heap of yard maintenance to do now though so will be giving the project a rest the next couple of weekends to get the house looking reasonable again.

[stuee]

Chasing a bit of advice people.

Looking to get the ball rolling with the 101 again but not so sure about how to proceed atm. I was orignally planning to get the brakes sorted (have to overhaul/rebuild all components and put new lines in) but have come to the realisation that due to not having the master cylinder assembly available (require the cab to be in place), I wont be able to test whether or not what I've put in has worked.

I'm now thinking Ill get the motor and gearbox back in, along with drive-shafts so I can use the handbrake and then look at reassembling the cab and getting it primmed and trial fit in in place prior to painting. What are peoples thoughts on this? Are there things I should be looking at doing before this? Unfortunately I dont have the luxury of having a firewall that I can leave in place while I wire everything up, mount pedal assemblies and master cylinders etc so I figure the cab is the next main thing to get done??

I have plenty of little jobs to keep me occupied in the mean time while I decide what to do, but I figure I will soon have to drop a bit of cash on the media blasting and painting of the cab, which I have to save for again seeing as I somehow managed to agree with the missus to pay our water and land rates with my 101 fund :( Also, in case anyone is interested I am pretty sure I have settled on Nara Bronze as the colour I want, with fresh galved parts and a black dyed hood :cool:

Also 101ers reading this I would appreciate any photos of the shuttle valve location on the chassis and brake line connections between the cab and chassis. The parts manual and workshop manual don't indicate this very well. Alternatively if a Perth 101er is available sometime after October (flat out with work atm) then I'd be keen to buy them a beer in exchange for going nuts with my camera taking snaps of their 101.

[101 Ron]

My thinking on this would to fit engine and transmission next.
A fellow called Cooee fitted the front of his 101 on in one piece.....a nose cone type set up which he tried on and off a few times etc .(acess was good that way)
My feeling is the brakes to do later is not a big deal.
The wiring though the nose and front half of the body work would be hard.
Are you going to do the wiring as standard or do your own wiring from stratch.
Knowing where the engine coolant pipes and wiring run along things, transmission cables will be hard without another 101 to refer to.

[101 Ron]

If you get too stuck on the positions of the brake pipes etc I will take pics

[101 Ron]

Getting the radiator in the chassis may help as a lot of stuff runs around the RHS of it and fitting soon may save you relocating stuff later on.
Check my photo bucket site as much of the pics on it are of 101s and some is of the chassis up close.
http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/#!cpZZ73QQtppZZ16
The problem is you need to check though some thing like a 1000 pics.

[stuee]

Thanks for the tips Ron. I'm leaning towards re-wring from scratch, but I have been thinking about using parts of the original wiring loom as some of its still in great condition and seems like the factory has used some reasonable gauge wire. I'm most likely going to put in modern relays and a flasher unit etc unless I can be convinced otherwise, but I'd still like all the electrics to have the same functionality as if it came from factory, just newer, more reliable components.

I'll have plenty of time to sift through the photos in you album and save the useful ones while I'm working over the weekend. Cheers :cool:

[stuee]

With the assistance of a couple of mates (Steve and Rick) today I got the motor and gearbox fitted into the chassis today.

Said mates. One supervising and the other using the hammer drill:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/216.jpg

Lifted the gearbox up and figured it wasn't going in from the front:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/217.jpg

A little out of the square thinking (or would you call it common sense) suggests we move the chassis out the car port and turn it sideways on the grass - credit to mates who suggested the obvious:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/218.jpg

Cleaning the mating face - also note the ratchet strap holding the gearbox up while we wait for the motor to be put in:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/219.jpg

The arse end of the motor:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/220.jpg

Moving motor into position:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1538.jpg

Motor and gearbox in. I forgot to take a photo earlier so just got this one a few minutes ago:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/221.jpg

Next week I will be degreasing the motor and gearbox and giving it all a good scrub, along with the oil cooler and radiator. Will look to getting it all plumbed up and seeing if I can start the motor prior to moving onto the cab.

[stuee]

Just a small update to the build. I have dropped the fuel tank off at a Natrad shop to have the rust holes patched up and also put the radiator in for a recon. Have also just placed an order for a Pertronix Electronic ignition from this lot:
PerTronix Ignitors for Lucas Distributors (http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/lucas.htm)

Have seen this mob recommended on a few different forums and they are by far the cheapest about. Local retailer wanted around $230, this will be delivered to my door for $115. Placed the order last night and have a confirmation email that it is in stock and will be in the post today!!

Will now look at getting a set of bosch leads as I've had a good run with these and I'll be trying the original rotor and dizzy cap to start with and to be honest haven't checked out the condition of the spark plugs so maybe a new set of those too. Will also use the stock coil for now but this may get upgraded by the time the beast hits the road.

[101 Ron]

I have pertronix on my 101.
I would check if the rotor and dist cap is easily advailable before ordering the ignitor unit.
There is alot of lucas dist which fit the 101 and some are easier to get bits for than others.
Check to see if your vac advance is working too before ordering.
The wiring on my 101 is a mixture of standard wiring and add on stuff.
It has been converted to 12 volt, but still using 2 batteries which are switchable independant.
The whole set up is a pain as it is not one or the other and wiring faults are a nightmare to trace.
I would
1/ use standard wiring and do just minor mods where required so the the whole system can be fault found.
2/ whole new system which is well laid out and simple to follow.
A half and half set up means alot of joints between the new and old wiring and big problems down the track.

[101 Ron]

Another thing to think about if using modern relays and wiring.
my 101 has the mistake of mounting some of them in the fan tunnel or just behind the grill.
The weather and the amount of water the 101 can swallow down the fan tunnel is supprizing which plays havoc with electricals.
You must keep in mind the 101 doesnt have a nice long warm bonnet like a normal landy.
Cooee a former 101 owner and restorer did a lot of the wiring and fit up of compenents in a way that he could easily remove the front of the cabin (nose cone) in one piece which made access very easy.

[stuee]

I have pertronix on my 101.
I would check if the rotor and dist cap is easily advailable before ordering the ignitor unit.
There is alot of lucas dist which fit the 101 and some are easier to get bits for than others.
Check to see if your vac advance is working too before ordering.
The wiring on my 101 is a mixture of standard wiring and add on stuff.


I believe mine was a 12V model but not much of the original loom still exists anyway. Where feasible I will be keeping wiring layouts the same as the wiring diagram, only add in modern relays and blade fuses, as well as scrapping the suppressors.

Its interesting what you say about the volume of water coming through the nose, this is not something I would have picked so will be sure to waterproof electrics in this area. I also like the idea of mass connectors to allow the nose cone to be pulled off in one piece easily, should not be hard to do and will less work in the future.

In regards to the dizzy I have checked I have the standard Lucas 35d8 12V dizzy so am reasonably confident I have the right model ordered, have also checked the vacuum advance as this is an item that went on my disco not long ago (was surprised considering the cars age). The only thing I can't really be sure of with the dizzy at this stage is the mechanical advance but I am sure I will find out soon enough.

[DODGE]

Gday Stuee

Shes coming along nicely. if you want to see where any bits go that your not sure of let me know and i can bring mine around for you to have a look at. keep up the good work.

Cheers Gaz

[stuee]

Shut-down at work finished 2 days earlier than expected so I have the weekend to kick back and relax, as well as play with the 101.

During the week I received some nutserts in the mail from ebay, the smallest amount I could find was a pack of 50 but I think I will be able to find uses for them elsewhere. These were to replace the oil cooler nutserts that melted out during galvanising, and where the front cross-member was repaired I had to drill 2 new holes and install them.

I used Blknight.aus (Dave's) guide on how to insert nutserts without the tool http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/67408-nutserts-rivnuts-without-tool-pics.html and have to say it worked a treat. Very helpful guide and I was impressed with how easy it was.

On with the pics...

Oil Cooler installed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/66.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/67.jpg

Nutsert Tool ;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/68.jpg

Freshly cleaned and painted radiator bracket mounted:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/69.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/70.jpg

Reconditioned radiator mounted in place:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/71.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/72.jpg

This arvo I will take a drive down to the local auto stores and start seeing if I can find suitable top and bottom radiator hoses - anyone have any suggestions on what might fit, I need to have a search around here first. Also going to order a Tefba style coolant filter both both filtering purposes and a nice high point to fill and bleed from. If I get around to it I'll try and clean up the fuel tank carrier and fuel tank ready for paint.

[stuee]

Just painted the fuel tank and carrier today which can be seen in the thread in the 101 section: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/fcs-military-variations/136398-101fc-fuel-tank-options.html

Otherwise I found some radiator hoses yesterday.

All hoses Mackay Rubber. Top hose made of two which I will cut and join with a temperature sensor housing. Part numbers CH782 (VE Valiant 8cyl top hose and some sort of mitsubishi - cant read the label), and CH944 (Bottom hose of numerous holden v8's including HQ,HJ, HX and HZ)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/20.jpg
Temperature sensor housing will be one like this:
38MM WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR HOSE ADAPTOR METER GAUGE | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/38MM-WATER-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-HOSE-ADAPTOR-METER-GAUGE-/110755933956?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c9916f04)

Lower hose part number CH1696 (Nissan 4.2 Diesel bottom hose) can be cut in two and joined to the t-piece that links up with the heater:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/21.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/22.jpg

And some misc pics. One of my birthday presents:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/23.jpg

Cakes the missus made for my compulsory cake day at work :D:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/24.jpg

And the mess that I am leaving behind - will have to have a big tidy up soon:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/25.jpg

[101RRS]

If you have not done it, I would be replacing the s shaped rubber hose that bypasses the thermostat to circulate water when cold - it joins the back of the water pump to the lower thermostat housing. It is out of the way and out of side and if it splits takes for ever to determine it is the culprit and it is difficult to change with everything on the engine in place.

Garry

[pormpaul]

Great build love it

[stuee]

If you have not done it, I would be replacing the s shaped rubber hose that bypasses the thermostat to circulate water when cold - it joins the back of the water pump to the lower thermostat housing. It is out of the way and out of side and if it splits takes for ever to determine it is the culprit and it is difficult to change with everything on the engine in place.

Garry

Thanks for the heads up. The goal is to replace all perishable hoses but I wasn't aware of this one. I will have a close eyeball tonight. Is it a hose molded into shape or will generic coolant hose be suitable?

[101RRS]

It is a moulded S shape and normally coolant hose could not be bent to fit.

We aware there are a few different versions and of course the 101 number no longer comes up in the system. I think there are two types for a normal 3.5 so I would get both and fit the one that is closest - it will still require a little trimming to fit.

Garry

[stuee]

It is a moulded S shape and normally coolant hose could not be bent to fit.

We aware there are a few different versions and of course the 101 number no longer comes up in the system. I think there are two types for a normal 3.5 so I would get both and fit the one that is closest - it will still require a little trimming to fit.

Garry

Thanks for that. I will hit up the local Rover parts place and check out their wares. Can book my Disco in there to get the starter motor replaced too.

[stuee]

Did a bit more disassembly today (supposed to be putting it back together!!). Pulled off the thermostat housing and attempted to think about how to remove the exhaust flanges that appear to be fused to the exhaust headers. From what I gather the 101 exhaust headers are as rare as hens teeth now, at the same time as being easy to crack.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/999.jpg

I'm also trying to keep as much of the exhaust as I can at least until I can get it to a muffler shop to make up a new system fro the headers back, but it would be nice to at least have the exhaust exiting half way down the chassis instead of straight out the headers and making a mess of the freshly painted chassis.

Also getting quite a lengthy shopping list for items for the engine including:
- Thermostat and gasket
- S-Hose for thermostat bypass
- Rotor Cap and Rotor (genuine Lucas items)
- Leads - bosch
- Oil filters
- Spark plugs
- Fuel filters

Going to cost a few dollars and then I have to drop even more on new fuel lines and vacuum lines. To top it off I received a $1500 tax bill so things might not be progressing as quickly as I hoped over the next month or two :(

[chazza]

attempted to think about how to remove the exhaust flanges that appear to be fused to the exhaust headers. From what I gather the 101 exhaust headers are as rare as hens teeth now, at the same time as being easy to crack.

(

If you mean removing the bolts into the bottom of the manifold, try the following, which has worked for me on my P6.
1. Protect the chassis with some folded steel sheet and start and run the engine for a minute or two so as to warm the manifolds. Try removing the fasteners, more heat may be needed; once they start moving allow it to cool a bit and soak in light penetrating fluid.
2. If there is no luck with the above method, heat the bolt heads with an oxy-set to a red heat. Try to turn when they cool to a black heat. Warming the manifold first, is a good idea to help prevent cracking. I have never known this method to fail :D

Reassemble with Loctite Anti-seize,

Cheers Charlie

[101RRS]

Stuee - as you have appreciated 101 manifolds are rare as hens teeth and as brittle as glass. When removing the actual exhaust pipe the manifold will break about 2" above the join.

Last year I did my clutch and broke the left manifold in the process of removing the gearbox - luckily I had a spare but I found my right spare was also cracked. I am keeping the broken manifolds so that if I break another in the future I can get the old ones welded up by a specialist cast welder (is a brazing process).

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/100_0797.jpg

So be warned - any sideways pressure on the manifold will break them.

Garry

[stuee]

Part way there:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/793.jpg

Got one out the other just twisted the bolt off. Couldn't get enough heat to the shaft going into the header I think and not letting the bolt cool enough.

Will weld a nut on the this bit which should have the benefit of blasting a bit of heat down the bolt shaft hopefully breaking the rust bonds.

Also going to paint the headers with some VHT type paint after all this. Have seen that with the headers off the starter is extremely easy to access to so will rip that of and give it a clean.

[stuee]

After one failed night I was nearly ready to take it to a machine shop but finally success tonight. First attempt at welding on the bolt, it simply sheared straight off again. I feel the welds were not up to scratch now. Second attempt I cut some slots in the exposed stud an attempted to use a screw driver. Third attempt I tried drilling and broke the drill bit after reaching the full depth of the bolt. 4th attempt attempt I built the stud up with a bit of weld (had since been drilled and slotted), welded a washer flush to the flange and finally a nut to the bit of weld built up and success!!!

First welded nut:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/708.jpg

Second welded nut with success:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/709.jpg

The end of my broken drill bit just sticking out:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/710.jpg

One extractor down, one to go, then paint...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/711.jpg

[stuee]

Had tried to reply to this last night but must have hit preview instead of submit :mad:

The second extractor didn't go nearly as well, ended up drilling out both bolts, but I can use a nut and bolt in place on this side.

Also got the starter motor back on which I pulled off, tested and repainted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/601.jpg

[stuee]

Nothing to report but I bought an Ajax air rivet gun which I hooked up and had a play with. Nice piece of kit and so much easier on the wrists than a manual rivet gun. I've got mixed views on the sealed rivets I've purchased. The bunnings Zennith jobbies the stem snaps off above the rivet head and looks messy (to big anyway so wont be using these) while the ones I got from coventry's appear to do the same but it was only a small broken fragment stuck in the top of the head which knocked out after.

Not sure if Ill use sealed rivets everywhere if they end up being this messy, but from what little body work I have assembled it appears only sealed rivets where used??

Zennith on left, coventry's in centre and generic open on right
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/892.jpg

[Dinty]

G'day All, Sealed rivets were the type used by Rover, you can knock in the nail with a small pin punch, that sort of thing happens even with expensive rivets as well, cheers Dennis:angel:
ps have to agree with you, air powered rivet gun is easeir on the wrists than the lazy tongs, I have the big A in both thumbs and wrist problems,,.:(

[stuee]

Again not much to report thanks to this little cutie:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/690.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/691.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/692.jpg

Our new German Shepard pup. She's now about 8 1/2 weeks old and picked her up on Saturday. The last month or so has been getting the yard ready for her arrival including replacing a fence, dropping a gate, paving areas she could dig to escape and removing all the rubbish in the yard that may be dangerous as well as general rubble and sand left over from renovations 2 years ago (filled 7 cube skip to the brim!!). So apart from being broke I havnt had much time to spend on the 101, but I have the week off and now she is settled in I can hopefully get some time to work on the truck while she's sleeping.

I did manage to make my own rover v8 spark plug socket today though. Had to take to a cheapie socket with a grinder and the end result was this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/693.jpg

Got all the plugs out checked and put back in. Have everything I need to start the engine now bar fuel lines which I might be able to squeeze in before xmas.

[Sleepy]

Cute dog.:)

[chazza]

A
I did manage to make my own rover v8 spark plug socket today though. Had to take to a cheapie socket with a grinder

That reminds me that my P6 has a tube spanner in the tool-roll, which was the only spanner that could fit onto the plugs - must be something different about the 3.5 heads!

Cheers Charlie

[Dinty]

G'day All,
What a lovely little pup, but I have to fair dinkum here, you won't have time now for your project;):p:D, so I will arrange to have it picked up so you can spend more time with that beaut little pup:D, cheers Dennis:angel:
ps can't wait to hear it running via Utube,,.:cool:

[101RRS]

Don't understand why you needed to make a spark plug socket - standard spark plug sockets fit fine - well they do on my 3.5.

Doggies love 101s

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/04082009002.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/IMG_0331.jpg

[stuee]

Don't understand why you needed to make a spark plug socket - standard spark plug sockets fit fine - well they do on my 3.5.




To be honest I was a little bit stunned when my sockets didn't fit. Thought there must be a generic "skinny" socket that would work, but seems like most auto shops and tool shops don't have a clue. I since found out by looking at the parts manual that there should be a box/tube spanner, as chazza pointed out. Went looking for a plumbers socket which is generally made of sheet steel but bunnings only had metric sizes that didnt fit, and the tool shops only had high quality German ones that were just as thick as a normal socket.

My dad lent me an old imperial plumbers socket to try but I promptly lost it before I got a chance to try it out :oops2:. Turns out 5 minutes with an angle grinder and a $7 socket work just fine though.

[stuee]

Sourced 80% of the fuel hoses today. Just need to find someone who can supply me clear fuel hose to go between the two carbies, apparently this is hard to get hold of these days. Worst case Ill just use black rubber, I believe the only reason to keep it clear is to see if there is air in the lines??

Also need to source a 90 degree connector for the sediment filter as I'm missing that. May need to go to an Enzed type place for this.

Once I've got this Ill mock up the lines from the tank to the motor and start getting ready to turn her over. If I'm not to occupied over Christmas I should be able to get this done *fingers crossed*.

I also managed to replace the fuel filter element and seals, clean the sediment trap and etch prime the final parts on the chassis (front and rear bumpers and some outriggers).

[stuee]

Poured some oil in the motor today and went to turn it over a few times with the hand crank to get everything lubricated. Got a few turns then it jammed up. Will rip the rocker covers off tomorrow to take a look to see if any valves are sticking, if all fine then I will drop the oil and sump and see if theres anything obvious. Have also read that you can squirt some oil in the spark plug holes to soak from the top down.

Looks like it wont be as simple as I had first hoped :( Its definitely a lazy way of doing it but my goal was to get this back on the road within the shortest time-frame possible, restoring most things myself, and leaving the engine, gearbox and diffs (all the big $$ items) for a later overhaul if they need it.

Otherwise I've installed the Pertronics unit in the dizzy, mocked up all the fuel hoses, replaced the coolant hoses, blocked the heater inlet and outlet and just need to get some temporary wiring done to the starter motor, fuel pump and ignition. But if the motor needs major work it will be a big bummer.

With all the exhaust bits I've got I'm going to make some dump pipes to direct gases away from the chassis and gearbox for when I start it up too. These will stay in service till I can drive it to an exhaust shop to get a full exhaust made up.

Also found a great store for all my future connector and hose needs not far from where I live. Much better service and stock than the other Enzed type stores I've tried around the place, and they sell all the bits I will need for brake and clutch lines which is a bonus. Can really recommend them to anyone in Perth:
Couplers Malaga (http://www.couplers.com.au/)

[stuee]

Having a look today and it looks like I will have to pull the whole inlet manifold off in order to pull the rocker covers off. Tried pulling one off this morning and too much interference with the carb and rockers to get it off. I've tried getting just the carbs off, but you either need impossibly small spanners or to pull the whole manifold off :mad:

At least I can give the whole lot a proper clean, and will probably drop the carbs off to get a service somewhere or even look at doing it myself. Never touched carbs before but may be a good learning experience :eek: Any advice for these? Best left alone and let the pros do it or have a crack myself. If it was EFI I wouldn't have any gripes, just computers and sensors, carbs are a different way of thinking though.

Will also clean up and possible paint the rocker covers and manifold. Also means I will need a few gaskets so looking at placing my first order from the UK, either John Craddock with a few extra 101 parts or just Paddocks if I just get the engine parts for now. There's potentially the ebay suppliers as well that sell the full kits but none of them tell you exactly what's included so I will have to fire off a few emails. Any ideas on decent local suppliers. Rovacraft are a bit on the pricey side and you generally only get brtipart stuff from them anyway.

Edit - any thoughts on the rocker cover gasket type - cork or rubber? Also any particular brands to avoid - I'm not ripping of the heads at this point in time so will not be looking at head gaskets.

[stuee]

Well visual inspection of the valve-train with the rocker covers off and the lower half of the engine with the sump off show no signs of obvious damage.

I'm not sure what the go is at this stage, I only managed 10-15 hand cranks before it stopped so it was turning to start with. Will be posting something up in Technical chatter asking for suggestions. I'm not sure where to look next, I would have thought if a bearing ran dry or didn't have enough oil it would progressively get harder to turn instead of just stopping :confused:

[The ho har's]

Gee I am puffed out reading all the threads;):)

hope you sort it soon, yes best ask in Tech Sect, you may get a quicker

response fron the RR drivers and get it running sweet:)

We are still playing with our Cabs as ous is straight gas ATM, need to get it on petrol as well.


Mrs hh:angel:

[chazza]

What sort of carburettors are they? If they are SU Burlen Services in the UK have all the parts and they are very easy to work on but you will need a manual. If it is any help I have the manual for the SU HIF6, I can copy the pages for you.

As Bee Utey suggests on the other page, try blowing any muck out of the cylinders after turning the engine backwards. I don't think the engine is seized but rather jammed by something.

Was the inlet manifolding blocked off when the engine was in storage? I have lost count of the number of fossilised mice I have found inside cylinders over the years.

Is the gearbox connected? I once had a starter ring gear move on a flywheel and jam against the block. Is the starter motor pinion jammed on the flywheel?

Cheers Charlie

[stuee]

What sort of carburettors are they? If they are SU Burlen Services in the UK have all the parts and they are very easy to work on but you will need a manual. If it is any help I have the manual for the SU HIF6, I can copy the pages for you.

As Bee Utey suggests on the other page, try blowing any muck out of the cylinders after turning the engine backwards. I don't think the engine is seized but rather jammed by something.

Was the inlet manifolding blocked off when the engine was in storage? I have lost count of the number of fossilised mice I have found inside cylinders over the years.

Is the gearbox connected? I once had a starter ring gear move on a flywheel and jam against the block. Is the starter motor pinion jammed on the flywheel?

Cheers Charlie

With the carbs, I now have to wait for a bunch of gaskets so I may look into rebuilding the carbs, just have to research into them a little first. I may take you up on that offer for the photocopy if they are the same model.

The inlet manifold was open, open, but with it off and inspecting each of the cylinders it looks like it is reasonably clear from obstructions.

I'm starting to become suspicious of the gearbox/clutch. I did check the starter and the pinion looks clear, but I have no idea what's going on behind the flywheel. SO Ill spend a bit of time investigating this tomorrow.

[stuee]

Things are heading back on track. With the help of "mike 90 rr" I got the engine turning once again.

As the motor currently stands:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1191.jpg

Most of the seals and gaskets have been ordered and should hopefully be here for me to pickup tomorrow or worst case next weekend.

I wanted a bit of extra power out of the 101 so in cleaning up I painted the rocker covers in 3M's "Rocket Red" engine enamel. Looks to be more like blood orange atm though. Hopefully it will dry a fuller red and I will get those few extra kilowatts it brings with it :p. Old beer cartons make quite handy trash cans too...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1192.jpg

With the sump off I took the chance to clear all the sludge out the bottom and degrease it only to find the bottom of it has some bad surface rust so I will hit it with the wire-brush wheel tomorrow and give it a fresh coat of paint (I still have plenty or Rocket Red / Blood Orange left :D - but it will probably just get the White Knight Satin Black :cool:).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1193.jpg

Also checked on the carbs and they are Zenith-Stromberg CD2S carbs. Dont know if this is a good or bad thing

[drifter]

What was stopping the engine from turning?

[101 Ron]

I wouldnt touch the CD stormbergs unless you need to.
They are simple and if the needle settings are undisturbed there is no reson to touch them.
Carbys tend to wear out threads and break screws etc when pulled apart for little gain.
The only problem these carbys get is holes in the rubber piston diaphrams on if it occurs is easy on vehicle to replace.
I carry spares with my 101 as the diaphrams are cheap and take up no room.
A couple of drops of engine oil in the carby damper at service times is the only other thing you need to do to these carbys.
Get the motor running and only fix if you have too as you will make more work for your self trying to set up carbys and other engine settings from scratch.
In the tool kit of my 101 I carry 2 special short lenght open end/combination spanners for removing the carbys from the motor if I need to on the side of the road...........can be done , but is a bit of a pain.
The same short spanners are good for adjusting the main jet idle mixture .
Anthony Johnson in Montrose Vic is great for 101 parts and alot of series and defender parts at reasonable prices.
There has not be one time he has not been able to supply a 101 part I have needed and his knowlege on these vehicles is good.
I am finding the 3.5 motor as stock is a great little unit that holds its tune with electronic ignition and I have had little need to work on it other than oil changes etc and I give it a real hammering at times.
I carry a spare oil pump to oil cooler hose in my 101 as they have been know to leak with age, but is something that can be checked any time down the track.
Ron

PS
When I had my diff centres painted go faster bright red my 101 agained 10 mph in top speed and 2 mpg better fuel burn.
I have great hopes for your experiment in red rocker covers !

[stuee]

What was stopping the engine from turning?

We believe it was a sticky valve refusing to budge after a few years sitting in the guide. Possible a bit of rust built up on the exposed part of the valve shaft or a bit of crud/carbon/something dried on. We gently worked the motor back with two screw drivers on the flywheel sprocket, then were able to work it back another full revolution with a strap on the crank pulley. It now turns over fine. I'll be replacing the valley gasket as there is a bit of corrosion around one of the cooling ports, so when I rip that off I will also get to have a peek down the valley and will also apply some engine assembly lube to the camshaft so its protected for start-up.

Cheers for the tips on the CD's Ron. I've seen you can get the diaphragms for next to nothing so I will get a couple to throw in my own tool box. Will also have to source a cheap pair of spanners from supercheap to cut up like you have.

[stuee]

Well, slowly getting back to where I was before the engine drama. The valley gasket has been replaced, the intake manifold put back on and the sump cleaned up, repainted and re-installed less a good cm of goo sitting in the bottom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/472.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/473.jpg

All a lot cleaner now, and have been able to give the engine a good look over too.

Next weekend I will be looking to pull the bottom of the oil pump off, prime it with Vaseline and fill the engine with oil again. Will also feed some oil in from the top of the oil cooler so that gets reasonably well primed too. While I'm poking around the oil pump I'll pull the oil pressure switch off to see if I can get some adaptors top run an oil pressure gauge.

During the week I am going to start wiring up some basic electrics to allow the motor to start. An ignition switch, a light fed from the oil pressure switch, and something to fire the starter motor. Power will come from my disco while its running so I have a nice healthy supply.

[101RRS]

You are certainly making progress - good work.

Garry

[The ho har's]

Top effort there, you will be out and about in no time;):D

Mrs hh:angel:

[stuee]

Thanks for the words of encouragement :)

The heat has been a bit debilitating over here. Was forecast for 42 today but now been dropped to 38, so I've been staying inside where possible.

Have bought all the electrical bits I need to start the basic wiring, at least that's something I can do in the aircon to start with. Have also ordered a VDO oil pressure and water temp gauge (to sit in the factory holes in the centre of the dash). The oil pressure sender has a switch as well which is set to 7 psi, so I will use that for the warning light. On advice from others here I wont be running the original switch which cut fuelling in the event of lost oil pressure, and sometimes leads to starting difficulties from what I gather. Got an adaptor to suite as well this morning so when it comes it should bolt straight in.

Just trying to motivate myself to leave the air conditioning and tackle the oil pump prime. Bought three little tubs of petroleum jelly from woollies today while doing the weekly shop. Surprised I didn't get any odd looks :angel:

[101RRS]

I take it that you did not manage to get the water temp gauge in the standard 3 gauge instrument to work - my does not work and I have done what you are doing but in due course I will switch back to the original system.

If you have the dissy out, you can prime the oil pump through there with a drill driving a screw driver blade to turn the dissy drive which is also connected to the oil pump.

My engine sat for nearly 10 years and still primed itself OK - but you do not want to take any chances with these things. Removing the oil pressure starter is a good idea - one less thing to worry about if your engine will not start.

Cheers

Garry

[stuee]

The factory gauge has the water temp but I'm not a big fan of factory temp gauges after what my disco has been like, also I havnt tested to see if the factory guage still works. The VDO water temp gauge will just be cheap insurance, and something else to fill the second hole in the dash. Ends up reasonably cheap from egauges.com in the US, even with express postage - compared to Aus prices that is.

Have been thinking of pulling the dizzy out to prime but don't have an adaptor made up. From what I've read, some people have had success, while others have not. Its definitely a safe way to prime without turning the motor over. I will look at giving it a shot when the new oil pressure sender comes, for now though I'll still cram it full of petroleum jelly as it cant hurt.

[4bee]

Can you not just fill the filter with engine oil & screw it on as I do with the Discovery V8 engine?

I have not seen the arrangement on a 101 V8 & am assuming it is the same.

If so, mine always primes, but I do watch the oil lamp for a few seconds on restarting.

I realise you have already bought the Vaseline but I feel sure another use for it could be found. :D

[stuee]

Can you not just fill the filter with engine oil & screw it on as I do with the Discovery V8 engine?

I have not seen the arrangement on a 101 V8 & am assuming it is the same.

If so, mine always primes, but I do watch the oil lamp for a few seconds on restarting.

I realise you have already bought the Vaseline but I feel sure another use for it could be found. :D

The set-up is quite different. The oil filter is essentially at an angle facing downwards so its impossible to fill it with oil first before mounting it to the car.

If you have a look at the first engine picture on this page you can see it.

[chazza]

I used vaseline on my P6 when I rebuilt it and it worked well - just remember to check the pump for excessive wear, whilst you have the timing cover off,

Cheers Charlie

PS Agree about the weather - I haven't been into the shed for days!

[4bee]

Thanks stuee, point made.

[101RRS]

The set-up is quite different. The oil filter is essentially at an angle facing downwards so its impossible to fill it with oil first before mounting it to the car.

And makes a real mess when you change it:(

[stuee]

I called it quits for the day a few hours ago, but I got the oil pump primed with Vaseline, and the start of my "starter" box done. Currently 41.9 deg in Perth :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/233.jpg

[stuee]

Got some exhaust dump pipes done today so that when the engine is started I don't blow hot gasses all over the gearbox and chassis. Its the 4th time using my new arc welder. Slowly getting the hang of it, but it really makes the MIG welding I did at high school seem easy.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/88.jpg

Also picked up a Frost (elcheapo Sutton) tap and die set to clean out the threads in the exhaust header that I didn't need to drill out. They worked a treat and didn't cost a huge amount to boot.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/89.jpg

Finally, when I went to test my starter box today I found that my fuel pump is dead :( Thankfully the car came with a second pump which does work so I can swap that in.

All moving along very nicely atm. Should get my gauges during the week so I can fit up the oil pressure sender then be able to look at pulling the dizzy out to prime the beast. If that goes to plan I will be flicking the go switch next weekend :D

[stuee]

Got so close today. Had the oil pump primed, everything wired up and started running fuel through before it started urinated out the sediment filter. The rubber was to far gone to effectively seal. Have coated it with Permatex No3 after doing the run-around to the auto-part stores and being told they have nothing that will come close for fuel. Will let it set overnight and try again, if it still leaks, will bypass the sediment filter for now.

Other dramas were I snapped an oil pressure sender trying to tighten it gently. Would like to say its due to the Brtipart quality but the 24mm spanner I was using was close to a foot long, so perhaps to much leverage :angel:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1387.jpg

Also below is my oil pump priming tool, an old screwdriver with the handle cut off!! This method was extremely easy and primed the pump very quickly. Was able to watch the oil pressure light go out and confirmed oil was getting everywhere.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1388.jpg

And where I was using it, note I have my starter box in the top right of the pic which I could keep an eye on the oil pressure light with.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1389.jpg

I ran the drill for quite a while to get oil everywhere it would get it. I have a great deal of confidence for starting the motor safely now.

[101 Ron]

Try a paint shop and ask if they can give you a gasket from a bowl from a old touch up spray gun, or find some one who has a O ring kit where the O ring is made to suit from different strips of O ring material and glued together...ie truck repair shops.
I personally may up grade my fuel filter to a CAV diesel type , as they are cheap and effective................Its just a problem of if it fits in the advailible space above the motor.
That sediment bowl is a filter and you are most likely missing the element.
Chances are AJ may have them or knows what fits and the new element would come with a new gasket.

[101RRS]

Are we talking about the water trap or the fuel filter (filter inside a steel bowl). If the latter I stripped the thread out of it years ago and just use a clear inline filter in its place - the filter lies on its side and you can see the fuel flowing through it (confirm pump is working) and if the filter actually fills up with fuel it is time to change it.

Garry

[stuee]

Talking about the glass bowl filer Garry. Was a moot point anyway, tried again this morning with my temporary fix to the seal and once fuel reached the carbies it started coming out the bottom (the float chamber??). Have pulled them off once again to check them out but I imagine Ill be needing some new seals. Unfortunately I know next to nothing about carbs, can diagnose efi problems, but carbies have always been a mystery to me, so will have to be a sharp learning curve.

Also know why the rocker covers weren't painted from factory, because when fuel inevitably spills on them it gets ruined :oops2:.

The starter motor was not up to scratch either. Didnt have enough torque to turn it over with the spark plugs in. Will look at fiitng the old unit out of my disco which only needs the terminals cleaned up.

Bit of a downer but will persevere.

[stuee]

For clarification its leaking from the areas shown below:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1355.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1356.jpg

Just above the nut in both instances.

Someone may know what this indicates which could save me pulling them apart. Looking at the manual these could possibly be mixture adjustment?? One side was leaking quite bad while the other side was just dripping. A little tweak on the bolts/nuts didn't do much to stem the flow.

Also looking at a few of these kits if I need to open them up:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stromberg-175CD-Carburettor-Kit-Holden-Land-Rover-/230684717768?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b5e172c8

[101RRS]

Ok - so initially we were talking about the water catch bowl - there is no filter in there.

When I got my engine running first time around, petrol poured out the bottom of the carbies - there is a small O ring in there that perishes and cracks. The o rings are a common size and are freely available - I had a box of reject shop o rings and put one on and it is still there four years later - no leaks.

Just note where the bits are and uncrew the who thing - can be done with the carbies in place if you are careful.

Garry

[stuee]

Ok - so initially we were talking about the water catch bowl - there is no filter in there.

When I got my engine running first time around, petrol poured out the bottom of the carbies - there is a small O ring in there that perishes and cracks. The o rings are a common size and are freely available - I had a box of reject shop o rings and put one on and it is still there four years later - no leaks.

Just note where the bits are and uncrew the who thing - can be done with the carbies in place if you are careful.

Garry

When you say unscrew the whole thing , do you mean the float chamber (ie, the four flat head screws) or just the bolt thingy (I believe its the bottom of the jet assembly??) hanging out the bottom. If I remove it am I up for a world of hurt trying to rebalance the carbies or is this done elsewhere? Just thinking if I have to rebalance them, I may as well go to town on them and rebuild the the lot.

[stuee]

Just found this diagram in the repair manual. I assume I can pull out just the jet assembly and will see which seals are perished.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1352.jpg

edit* so I think I've found the culprit. Going to do a run around to see if any of the auto-stores open have a suitable replacement.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1353.jpg

[101RRS]

I screwed out the bottom bit to check it out but took note of exactly its position and just put it back in the same position.

When you get your truck all up an running I would put it in to a trusted mech and get them to set everything up - took my mech about 1/2 hour and runs really well - actually well ran pretty well before hand - can also identify other no seen issues (I had poor spark).

Garry

[Recy Mech]

I can't believe I've just read all 12 pages......and not wanting the story to end. :D

Excellent thread, keep up the good work Stuee.

[stuee]

Got the new o-rings on (those shown and ones on the jet adjustment screw) and the carbies back on (will be able to rips them off in under 5 minutes soon...). This time I was able to at least turn it over,and after a few issues with ignition wiring I was able to get a few pops and farts.

I checked the timing and it was quite a bit out ( over 12 deg atdc), so adjusted that to a very conservative 6 deg btdc, which gave me more pops and farts. When its running I will take it out further. Spark was rather disappointing, so will be looking to change a few things there, namely check the block is suitably earthed to the jumper battery, and may have to get a better power source. The ignition cap, rotor, and spark plugs are original so I will chase up new Lucas ones during the week and have a crack again next weekend.

Oil pressure light would go out after a few cranks without fail each time too so that's some good news.

Its enough to get me excited at least :D

Also thanks for the heads up on the o-rings today Garry, was just about to shelve it for the day. For anyone -elses info, suitable o-riongs can be found in the Champion boxes of assorted o-rings (imperial):
O RING ASSORT PACK CBB4 CHAMPION - Supercheap Auto Australia (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/O-RING-ASSORT-PACK-CBB4-CHAMPION.aspx?pid=6650#Description)

While I was at supercheap I spied a very attractive looking Ryco fuel filter with a water trap on the bottom (forgot to say I ran a generic fuel filter to get me by for now). It was a Ryco R2132UA and I'm mighty tempted to just run one of these and scrap the sediment trap and normal filter. Will look into it further to see if it is actually suitable but looks the goods.

Ryco Fuel Filter Universal - R2132UA - Supercheap Auto Australia (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Ryco-Fuel-Filter-R2132UA.aspx?pid=127751#details)

[101RRS]

Great to see it all worked out - standard 3.5 timing is 3 btdc but is not all that important - can go as far as 9-12 btdc Ok.

Popping and farts are promising (have you got oil in the dashpots - if not, it causes farts etc and no go when cold). I would given it a dose of 'aerostart' or 'start your bastard' - would have got my curiosity going having it fart and not going - why don't you run outside and give it a squirt. :D

Garry

[stuee]

Great to see it all worked out - standard 3.5 timing is 3 btdc but is not all that important - can go as far as 9-12 btdc Ok.

Popping and farts are promising (have you got oil in the dashpots - if not, it causes farts etc and no go when cold). I would given it a dose of 'aerostart' or 'start your bastard' - would have got my curiosity going having it fart and not going - why don't you run outside and give it a squirt. :D

Garry

I did have a can of quick start with me but how effective I was with the starter motor, throttle body and everything else is another question. Would love to keep going into the night but unfortunately with the exhaust comprising just headers and a bit of pipe, I would most likely sour relations with our good neighbours next to where my 101 resides :eek:

[101 Ron]

The fuel filter is the one I would fit as a after market one and replacement R2134P elements cost around $8.50.....cheap as
You will need two adaptor fittings to fit it onto a rubber fuel hose.
The obivous place to fit it is above the motor , but they are a bit fiddley to replace elements on and you tend to drop a bit of fuel, so on the side of the chassis near the gearbox would be safer.
Back fire on a motor is usually cause by two things.
1 lean fuel mixture.
2 incorrect firing order or badly miss timed distributor which can cause the rotor to flash over to the wrong stud inside the distributor..
..........double check your firing order.

[stuee]

Well the escapade starts once again. I have replaced the rotor and cap, that resulted in no change, tried swapping out the GT40R for the old coil again with no effect, and have tried new spark plugs too. The spark looks very weak and small. The spark you get from your stove top ignitor is much bigger and brighter.

I'm now leaning towards bad supply, and/or bad earth. So far I have not added a second earth cable to the motor, not sure where the factory earth points were on the 101 (only have the one from the starter motor atm), so browsing online and through the manuals to try and find out.

If I have no luck today I am going to roll the 101 outside and swing it around so I can hook up jumper leads to the disco and have a constant power supply. So far I'm not getting much run time with the jumper battery.

[stuee]

Got a consistent spark now at least and a bit stronger than before after a few wiring changes. Still thought I would be getting much more from the setup though. Its about on par (if anything a bit less) with this:
1977 Ciao Moped Spark - YouTube

Have double checked firing order after replacing the dizzy cap and am reasonably sure fuel is getting in as some of the spark plugs come out a bit smelling of fuel (maybe too lean as Ron pointed out???), also double checked no1 is firing on TDC.

Tried powering off the disco which didn't work as well as I thought so just back on the jumper battery. As a bonus I got to clean the car port out properly after I moved it.

Less pops and farts than last week too. Going to start having a play around with the carb settings next I think.

[101 Ron]

I am guessing the igntion is electronic, just check the correct sort of coil is used and the correct voltage to the coil.......ballasted about 8 volts and un ballasted 12 volts.........coils and wiring/igniton system must match.
Some times with modern fuels and cranking the motor to get it going the sparkplugs will get black carbon on them and not spark across the plug under compression, but will test OK while unscrewed out of the motor.
Another trick if the spark is a bit off is to close up the sparkplug gap a bit to reduce the the voltage needed to fire the sparkplug under compression.
I wouldnt touch the carbies just yet.
The spark just needs to be fat and blue while cranking.

[101 Ron]

If the problem is fuel aerostart sprayed lightly into one of the carbys whisle cranking and ignition on should make the motor kick.
( be careful of back fire though the carby if spraying aerostart around the place)
The rover motor with the CD strombergs usually like the enricher (choke on during the first cold start)
You just may need some one with a few years of experience to be there just to help you get the basic settings and double check your work.

[101 Ron]

One other thing I am thinking is if the O rings around the main jet were leaking due to age , I wonder what the carby diaphrams are like.
Use a phillips head screw driver and remove the cover on the top of the carby helded with 4 screws.
Check the condition of the diaphram (looking for holes or a tear) and ensure the big alloy piston slides nicely up and down ,being carefully not the hurt the main jet needle in its main jet hole.
Add a couple of drops of engine oil in the damper for the carbys which is the black knob thing in the top cover of the carbys.
(lack of oil in the small damper piston causes a flat spot under accelleration )

[stuee]

The spark just needs to be fat and blue while cranking.

This is what I've been hoping for but so far only had a sissy little one.

In terms of setting it up, its only quite basic, so provided all the parts are fine, I must be missing something obvious.

I've set it up as per the instructions (below) and the electronic ignition side is firing when its supposed to, just its very weak. The only difference is that I have wired up an additional 12V supply through a relay that powers the coil directly when cranking over. Using a Bosch GT40R which has approx 1.2Ohms across the primary contacts, and the ballast resistor has a total of about 1.8Ohms. But on a 12V source this would only give the coil 4.8V.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1114.jpg


There is the possibility the ballast resistor is not suitable for the GT40R (don't know if they come in a wide variety of resistances??), but the two were sold to me as a compatible pair (GT40 being for use with no ballast resistor).

Aerostart has been used quite a bit today and didn't really get any extra cylinders firing. Which I gather from what you say points me back to the ignition.

Just checked the diaphragms and they are still good. If I had a car trailer I probably would have dropped it off to the local workshop by now, but I'm stuck with it. Will ask a few of the WA guys I know if they are free in the next month or so to come take a look.

[Mick_Marsh]

The GT-40 and GT-40R coils are great coils.

If you are using a 12V system, the GT-40 works with full voltage applied. The + terminal has 12v supply attached, usually from the ignition switch. Sometimes this switch develops dirty contacts so sometimes I wire a relay operated by the ignition switch so any ignition devices are operated almost directly from the battery.
The - terminal goes to the points or other triggering device.

The GT-40R operates on reduced voltage. The resistor reduces the voltage. A relay operated from the start signal shorts out the resistor thus applying full voltage to the coil.
This is done because, during starting, the battery voltage drops and it ensures the best possible spark is produced during starting.

If I have troubles with ignition to start a motor, I ensure all possible sources of voltage drop are removed. I wire the coil directly to the battery (via a fuse of course) and check there is a good earth connection from the engine block to the battery via the chassis.

[stuee]

Apart from the earth lead on the starter motor, are there any other earth points between the engine block and chassis?

[101 Ron]

Whats the spark like coming straight out of the coil while cranking and using another sparkplug and a spare lead......remember to earth the sparkplug
.
With the Neg wire off the coil from the ignitor,,ie removed, install another temperary wire , turn on the igniton and flash the end of that wire to earth,
You should get a spark coming out of the coil on the spare lead and sparkplug you have rigged up.
(you may get a small jolt from that wire you are flashing to earth)

[101 Ron]

I cannot remember where the earth lead is on the 101.
most vehicles have a heavy battery type cable running from one of the starter mounting bolts to the chassis and the Neg on the battery should run to the chassis/ or to the mounting bolt on the starter.

[Mick_Marsh]

As Ron says, test the spark.
An extra earth strap could help.

[stuee]

Whats the spark like coming straight out of the coil while cranking and using another sparkplug and a spare lead......remember to earth the sparkplug
.
With the Neg wire off the coil from the ignitor,,ie removed, install another temperary wire , turn on the igniton and flash the end of that wire to earth,
You should get a spark coming out of the coil on the spare lead and sparkplug you have rigged up.
(you may get a small jolt from that wire you are flashing to earth)

Ok I've just tried this (earthing plug and coil to the engine block) and am not getting very much spark at all, if anything the spark between the coil negative and block is bigger. So I take it from that, that I have either a shot coil or poor power and earth connections, the old coil is behaving in much the same way, either that or my interpretation of spark size is skewed.

Have cleaned up all the plugs to start cranking again tomorrow, but will also look at putting bigger power and earth wires to the coil as well.

[101 Ron]

Make things simpler again by placing the spark plug in the end of the ignition coil upside down like and earth the sparkplug back to the battery with a piece of 3mm wire.
ignition on and flash the earth terminal of the coil to the earth/neg side of the batterywith another piece of 3mm wire.
You should get a reasonable spark at the sparkplug.
If not....sparkplug or coil faulty..........or voltage/current problems at postive side of coil.

[stuee]

Make things simpler again by placing the spark plug in the end of the ignition coil upside down like and earth the sparkplug back to the battery with a piece of 3mm wire.
ignition on and flash the earth terminal of the coil to the earth/neg side of the batterywith another piece of 3mm wire.
You should get a reasonable spark at the sparkplug.
If not....sparkplug or coil faulty..........or voltage/current problems at postive side of coil.


Will give this one ago first thing tomorrow.

[stuee]

Found a good video of testing the coil directly as Ron describes, the guy has a creepy voice though :eek:
Ignition Coil - How to Test - YouTube

The coil definitely fires but not as big as I would have hoped, even with the ignition lead removed. Take the spark plug out of the equation and the spark from the lead earthing is just as big as that video, if not bigger.

I've also hooked up the ignition to its own battery so it will have full voltage while cranking. The latest attempt got me a few more pops while cranking with the choke on and aerostart. Not much with the choke off and aerostart.

I'm also considering the ignition leads. They are brand new Bosch leads but there appears to be a bit of play on the end of the plug, where as the leads in my disco (also bosch) are a super tight fit. Done for the weekend though, got tea at the folks house this evening and fishing next weekend so will come back after a break and see if I can get one of the WA guys to come over and help.

[101 Ron]

Try a fresh set of plugs.
Modern fuels play havoc with plugs and coats them with a conductive coating.
If you fuel up the motor a bit whisle trying to start the motor. the plugs tend to become coated.
Any pommie motor bike rider riding an old single lung bike will atest to this.
If you dont get your old pommie bike going after a few kicks , you need to drop in a new plug.
I have been getting problems with the Alvis Stalwart for the same reasons.
If you purchase the new plugs and its not the problem, you have not wasted our money as you can use the spare plugs later on.

[stuee]

Been a tough weekend:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/562.jpg


But before I tackled the weekend I got the motor running with the help of mike 90 rr. I was the main problem, my finding of TDC by myself with bluetac was not reliable and timing ended up 360 degrees out... :bangin:

Once that was sorted it fired into life without a fuss. As pointed out by Garry in another thread, not likely a mistake I will make again soon. Many thanks for the continued assistance all, even when it was probably clear the mistake was my end and I was not seeing it. I still have some questions regarding the vacuum advance on 101's (I realise all the 24V'ers wont be able to assist on this) but its late and I'm knackered from fishing, so will put it together tomorrow.

As required by the rules, proof of said motor running:
Videos :: EngineStarted.mp4 video by stuee69 - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid570.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/EngineStarted.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid570@@AMEPARAM@@570 @@AMEPARAM@@ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/EngineStarted@@AMEPARAM@@mp4

Also started looking at assembling parts of the body now. See my thread in the tech section:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/144244-restoration-body-construction-help-panel-tape.html

Now with the motor running I need to plan out how to proceed with the body. Ideally I'd like to get the front of the cab up so I can mount the brake and clutch master cylinders and start running the hydraulic lines. Lots to do before then though.

[101RRS]

That is running very nicely :). Cooee who built the bright yellow 101 (Little Thumper) found that it was best to do all the dash wiring while the nose cone was off.

Having tried to do work on the dash wiring with everything in place I would certainly recommend doing it first.

Garry

[stuee]

That is running very nicely :). Cooee who built the bright yellow 101 (Little Thumper) found that it was best to do all the dash wiring while the nose cone was off.

Having tried to do work on the dash wiring with everything in place I would certainly recommend doing it first.

Garry

Having started looking closely at the bodywork now I can see that any work on the engine/wiring is going to be fun with the body on :o

When you say Cooee took the nose cone off, did he simply drill the rivets out and had everything else in place while he wired everything up? I was hoping to tackle the hydraulics first then get the steering done so I could start moving the truck under its own steam, but I will have to plan out how it will all go together. I was under the impression that a lot of the electrics were actually mounted to the nose cone? (like fuses and relays).

[101RRS]

I am not sure exactly what he did but he always said it was easier to do with the nose cone off.

Here is thread at the time that has some pics but not with the nose cone off.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-projects/51696-cooees-thumper-101-a.html

[stuee]

Not much to report. Ran an oil cleaner and cooling system cleaner through the engine today and ran it for a good half hour. Replaced oil and filter, flushed engine and filled with proper coolant.

A video because I can :cool:
Videos :: EngineRunning.mp4 video by stuee69 - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid570.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/EngineRunning.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid570@@AMEPARAM@@570 @@AMEPARAM@@ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/EngineRunning@@AMEPARAM@@mp4

Looking at the logistics of the body work a lot closer now and have come to the realisation that I need to spend a decent chunk of money to get things kicked off and get some paint applied. Not looking to slave for hours with paint stripper and a sanding disc so will most likely drop the panels off a bit at a time with this lot:
Home - stripped-bare, Perth's longest serving soda blasting company (http://stripped-bare.com.au/)

They can also prime the panels once they've been blasted in 2K primer. All I need to do now is find out how long the panels can remain in primer for, before they need painting. My plan is to get all panels primed, then assembled, then drop the parts of in pieces or one hit and get them all painted (want 2-pack so no go for home application). I will think about getting the galvanised bits that weren't touched before re-galved so its a nice factory look when its all done.

For the time being I need to spend some time on the yard and the disco which I am seriously thinking of selling as its just not getting enough use. This would also give me some more money to put towards the 101.

[101 Ron]

Do not discount paint stripper on the 101s alloy panels.
How well it works depends on the number of previous coats of paint and type of paint used.

[stuee]

Do not discount paint stripper on the 101s alloy panels.
How well it works depends on the number of previous coats of paint and type of paint used.

I'm just taking the lazy option on this. The previous owner hit a lot of panels with paint stripper and they have come up reasonably well, with only corners still left with paint in them. Problem is they have now all oxidised and need another good clean-up.

If I clean them myself, I need to have them primed shortly after so they don't re-oxidise, which I cant do at home with 2-pack primer. This means running them to a paint shop soon after cleaning and becomes a logistical nightmare. The above mentioned mob is located not far from where I work, and is open at 6.30am so I can drop in before work and pick it up later in the week before work again.

[stuee]

I have sold my disco, so now have a bit of money to spend, unfortunately most of its going towards a shiny round thing with a sparkly bit on top, but I also have a bonus coming shortly from work :D

In the mean time I have found this:
Guide to Defender Door Repair | Repair My Landrover (http://www.repairmylandrover.co.uk/defender-repairguides/guide-to-defender-door-repair-internal-frame)

via this post on the forum:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/136381-rust-doors.html

Also now found a source for the seal channel I was chasing:
051 Range Rover Classic Door Gasket Holder (http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/051-range-rover-classic-door-gasket-holder-174-p.asp)

Feeling much more confident in attacking the problem properly now. Doesn't look hard at all to do.

[drifter]

Congratulations on the engagement.

[stuee]

Congratulations on the engagement.

Not yet!!!! Still yet to pop the question. Only made the purchase so far.

Edit* PS thanks for advanced congratulations :)

[stuee]

About to start putting some bodywork back together and have the first of many questions regarding how the body work is supposed to be put back together.

The below pictures show how the engine tunnel bolts to the front nose cone. There is a hole left in the tunnel cover that I am unsure what its for at this stage (highlighted in red in the second photo). Rather than rivet this all together and pull it apart again I want to make sure I am not missing anything out that cant be attached later so I need to know what this particular hole is for, if anything, so I can attach whatever needs to go there prior to assembly.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/1121.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/1122.jpg

The third picture shows how there is a small gap between the nose cone and tunnel cover, indicating to me that something should actually end up going here, most likely the floor plates, but I cant see how the hole is used, as it isn't riveted all the way through to the nose cone, so a normal rivet wouldn't be used.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/1123.jpg

Any ideas?? The closest pictures I've seen covering the areas are from Peters website, unfortunately I cant make out the detail needed. Would appreciate any 101 owners chiming in, with pics even if possible.

Cheers,
Stuart

[jakeslouw]

Stuee's sticky notes: "Remember to take those pics of the 101 cab BEFORE you pull it apart!" :)

[101RRS]

I do not have that hole as such - all I have is a very small gap where the sheet metal has been bent to fit together - suspect it is a small drain to help drain water out of the cab and someone has made yours larger.

Garry

[stuee]

Stuee's sticky notes: "Remember to take those pics of the 101 cab BEFORE you pull it apart!" :)

Unfortunately I purchased the 101 already disassembled :(

[Mick_Marsh]

I'm no help.
I think it's under the floor plating.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=45723&stc=1&d=1334053468

[The ho har's]

As others have said.......all sorts of answers:(


will look tomorrow and see what I find:)

Mrs hh:angel:

[101RRS]

Here are some pics of mine - I have a foot rest that gets in the road a bit.

The inside - the dark bit is the very small hole in the corner.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P4100004.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P4100002.jpg

This is from the other side looking into the tunnel - again the little dark bit is the hole in the corner
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P4100009.jpg

Garry

[stuee]

Thanks guys and gals. Looks like it is a hole (:angel:) lot of nothing.

With the floor plate on top I will have a look at the bits I have to see why that gap is there. Might just be landrovers control :wasntme:

Edit** Just posted the same time as you Garry. Looking again it appears there is a small piece that I dont seem to have handy. The picture below shows it circled in red and it may be located by the hole in question. I've put the green line in to make sure I am interpreting the pictures correctly, I take it this is the end of the floor plates up hard against the nose cone.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/1120.jpg


Edit2* Looking at Rons pic from the higher angle it looks as though it might be a little 90deg bracket and may not sit below the floor plate. I shall sift though all the little bits to see what I can find.

[stuee]

Well found the little brackets. And seeing Garry's third picture its a little more obvious how the two parts go together.

This pic shows the little bracket, the wholes line up, it just needs to slot in behind the piece of metal on the nose cone - will be a tight squeeze with my new seam sealer tape.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/1114.jpg

This pic shows how the engine tunnel piece looks like it should slot under the nose cone section piecing it all together much better but one of Gary's pics shows it shouldn't be this way, and that would also pull some of the holes out of alignment. That same pic of Garry's also shows the bottom of the 90deg bracket through the hole.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/1115.jpg

[101RRS]

With everything in place I cannot see what shape it is under the floor panel etc. I cannot find it as a separate item in the parts manual so I assume it is considered part of the tunnel panel and as can be seen is pop riveted from inside the tunnel.

I suspect this little plate ties the corner all together.

Garry

[PeterP]

A 101 jigsaw that you did not pull apart is a serious challenge. I bet you know the parts manual really well.

Following is a closeup of mine. The hole was originally plugged with a bit of filler, as Garry said good to drain the water. I will cover the floor with something one day and that should cover the hole enough for cold weather.
The lump that is out of focus to the bottom left is the internal helicopter lift point.

If you want any more pics let me know, I already have around 1600 shots of mine and other 101's on disc. Generally I will have much higher resolutions shots than are on the web.

Cheers, Peter
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/1112.jpg

[stuee]

I suspect this little plate ties the corner all together.

Garry

It would appear that this is the case. It must reinforce the corner and help it all hold together.

Thanks for that shot Peter, it shows the bracket quite clearly in position, its good to see the factory didn't get the rivet hole placement right everyone else's brackets too :p

I was considering filling the hole up with seam filler, but if its useful for draining water I may leave it and just plug it with apiece of rubber.

Your right about it being a challenge Peter. I thankfully have one side of the cab part assembled (the passenger seat base) which should help me get a lot of it back together but I have been getting to know the parts manual and repair manuals quite intimately.

[stuee]

Now have the nose cone and tunnel riveted together.

Bunnings cheapo assorted screw/bolt pack used to help fix two parts together and line up the holes before fixing together with rivets:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/838.jpg

Nuts and bolts in use:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/839.jpg

All fixed together:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/840.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/841.jpg

Its really motivating seeing some body parts back together. Over the next couple of weekends I will get the disassembled seatbox back together, the only challenge in that is stripping off the bitumen under-sealer thats still on some parts. Going to try and get hold of some dry-ice. Supposedly that will harden it it will simply crack off. Alternatively, I will apply some gentle heat and scrap it off, just a lot messier.

[Mick_Marsh]

Is it my imagination or are you missing holes for the lights on the RHS?

[stuee]

Is it my imagination or are you missing holes for the lights on the RHS?

The holes are definitely there (I just popped out to check :eek:). Its the aluminium behind the holes making it look like they are absent. The high res photo is a bit clearer.

[101RRS]

Stuee - I just had to replace the speedo cable in my 101 - what should be a simple job turned into nightmare (and brought back bad memories when I was getting mine back on the road) because of the mess that lives behind the dash. Basically wiring comes from the two (i think) main looms behind the dash and secures directly to the various gauges and lights on the dash - an off course all this wiring is very short.

Modern cars have the dash wiring as a printed circuit board with plugs that connect it to the loom - when it needs to come out you just unplug it and the dash comes out complete with it own wiring.

When you do your wiring up in the dash I suggest you do all the wiring to a plug that will then plug into a new plug on the end of the main wiring loom. One at either end would probably suffice. This will makes this much easier for you when later you have to pull the dash out to replace bulbs etc.

As it is now for me - whenever I need to get behind my dash, wires often come off making whatever I am doing more complex.

Something you might want to consider when you get to it.

PS also consider relocating the engine coil etc away from the area just above the front left chassis rail - in deeper water crossings it gets splashed from inside the tunnel and the water hits the front diff and shoots straight up between the gap between the radiator and engine (this issue killed my 101 on a trip and resulted in it getting tilt trayed 180km back home).

I am looking at moving my coil and electronic ignition module up in the battery box to keep dry and putting a rubber shield along the bottom of the radiator and in front of the dizzy.

Cheers

Garry

[stuee]

Getting home at 7pm the last few nights means nothing is getting done. I did take a picture of the dash and its wiring loom for everyone to have a look at after Garry's post. Basically a lot of it will be getting stripped back and blade fuses and more modern relays will be used. I have been looking at some of the generic wiring looms available, but in reality a lot of the wiring is still in good nick and just needs to be cleaned up and put in new sheathing. Id also like to get the gauges sent away to get reco'd but I may leave them as is for now as money isn't endless unfortunately.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/709.jpg

[101 Ron]

Garry has the right idea.
You are in a great position to completely rewire the front of the vehicle.
Use the old harness as the blue print for a new one.
As garry said a disconnect multi pin plug on the wires running from the fan tunnel to the dashboard will be a god send later on.
Moving the ignition coil and any electronics away from the LHS inner guard will pay off in a big way later on.
I personally have not found another location for the coil which doesnt involve alot of work.
The engine fan is inline with the ignition coil in its standard position.
if the fan finds water the engine stops.
The question is.....are you any good at wiring ?

[stuee]

The question is.....are you any good at wiring ?

I get by :angel:

I lean a bit towards OCD with wiring these days (when its not temporary, otherwise its nasty), especially after some of the mess I've been dealing with at work lately. I'm constantly changing my mind on how to go about certain things with the wiring atm, but I have taken on board the connector between the dash and cab, as well as cab and chassis. Once the cab is assembled again I will have a better idea where cables can run and fuses/relays/etc be placed.

I will be looking to use a decent fuse block, either aftermarket from someone like Painless wiring or a decent unit from a wreckers, possible commodore or falcon. I want everything to be neatly labelled and easy to follow. I've been trying to get work to get a proper cable label maker which I would promptly borrow for when I get onto my wiring, alternatively, there are kits out there with the circuit name printed over the wiring. Lots of options out there but still a while off unfortunately.

The only bad thing with the wiring is that an immobiliser will need to be fitted for registration unless I can find an exemption for older cars. This could prove to be a pain.

I did get to work stripping panels over the weekend. I gave the stripper a try as I haven't got my act together to drop the panels off to be blasted during the week. Was pleasantly surprised at how good they came up, except for the bitumen liner underneath :mad:. That had to be scrapped off.

[101 Ron]

I have never heard of a immobliliser being needed for rego.
I use my battery change over switches to stop any one wanting to borrow the 101.
The wiring on my 101 was extensively reworked before I got it.
it was not too successful, as it is hard to trace though and gives much trouble due to the add hoc way it ways done.
Relays are not the holy gail.........a heavy duty push/pull switch etc if done right will work just as good without the complexity.

My 101 has fuses and relays hidden behind a false cover you can see in this pic just to the right of the Helo lifting ring.( below the screw driver)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/443.jpg

[101 Ron]

Do not place relays in the fan tunnel as they will get too wet and give trouble.
My non standard dash board.....note the wiring mess underneath
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/701.jpg

[stuee]

The wiring on my 101 was extensively reworked before I got it.
it was not too successful, as it is hard to trace though and gives much trouble due to the add hoc way it ways done.


That is pretty full on - looks like a lot of wires hanging out. What's the reasons for the non-standard dashboard?


Relays are not the holy gail.........a heavy duty push/pull switch etc if done right will work just as good without the complexity.


I plan on using the original switch gear where possible. The standard wiring makes use of relays, but a few big ones as opposed to multiple small ones. I plan on splitting a lot of the circuits where they were commoned up before and make use of standard automotive relays available from anywhere as opposed to the original lucas and Hella items which you would probably struggle to replace from supercheap or a petrol station.

As I will be doing a lot from scratch, I will be adding a relay for things like fuel pump and ignition but wont be going crazy with them and putting them on all the indication and low powered circuits. This is where the fuse/relay blocks come into their own because they have all the relays and fuses in one nice location that's easy to read and wire up. Looking into it more after this discussion I may just bite the bullet and buy a full wiring harness. They aren't hugely expensive, and the proper colour coding and labelling across the whole harness would make future trouble shooting a breeze rather than me trying to use existing wiring and splice it into a new fuse/relay block.

The following website has some very good diagrams of the standard circuits. Its for a lightweight, but this is exactly the same bar the oil pressure cut-out for the fuel pump. There is also one similar to these floating about on the 101 club forum.
Land Rover Lightweight (http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/LRL%20K.html)

Edit*
Really liking the look of this kit:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=10120
Probably close to $500 once delivered:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-10120/?rtype=10

[101RRS]

I have never heard of a immobliliser being needed for rego.


As far as I am aware all WA vehicles must be fitted with an immobiliser to be roadworthy.

Garry

[stuee]

As far as I am aware all WA vehicles must be fitted with an immobiliser to be roadworthy.

Garry

Sorry forgot to address that point. Yes, in WA all vehicles must be fitted with an immobiliser when registered or a transfer of ownership occurs. I'm not aware of any exemptions, but haven't looked for any at this point in time.

edit*
http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/20418.asp#21070

Looks like I should be good as the vehicle is older than 25 years. Provided it doesnt need a historical license to comply.

[stuee]

Thanks for bringing this thread back Diana!!! :D

As an update I've been progressing with the bodywork.

Stripping the bitumen coating needed an old chisel and a hammer to help at some points. Its been hard work!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1213.jpg

Some of the damage that needs to be repaired (not from stripping the bitumen):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1214.jpg

Bitumen gone:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1215.jpg

[Gillie]

An air chisel is your best friend for removing bitumen if you have a lot to remove.

[stuee]

An air chisel is your best friend for removing bitumen if you have a lot to remove.

Having never used one before don't know how comfortable I'd be using one on aluminium panels. I made enough gouges with the hand held chisel, and that was just using my arms (no hammer and I'm not huge haha).

[101RRS]

Butane or oxy to soften the bitumen and a paint scrapper to scrap it off.

[stuee]

Butane or oxy to soften the bitumen and a paint scrapper to scrap it off.

I did make use of the MAP gas gun to help out with some sections. Heat applied to non bitumen side and it scrapes off very easily. Did notice one small panel I was working on buckle slightly so backed right off from using it too much and persisted with hard work.

Got into some stripping today, finally have a reasonable workflow and setup going so if I don't get distracted too much tomorrow I will hopefully get all the bits I need done.

Tools:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1172.jpg

Some stripped panels (a few tidied up with the random orbital sander):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1173.jpg

The one with some paint still on it had some black coating (not bitumen) over the paint that was very resistant to the paint stripper so has taken a few goes to get that far. Now the black stuff is gone it will only take one more go to clean it up like the others.

I go on holiday for a week on the 18th June. I'd like to have everything ready to drop off to the body shop before then so will be trying to get the steel panels blasted before work one day this week. Once the cab panels come back it should start taking shape nicely.

[mike 90 RR]

...... paint that was very resistant to the paint stripper

Another method to try on paint removal is

Liberally wet a rag with acetone
Cover the panel with the rag
Leave the panel covered for 5min plus (re-wet the rag if required)
Wash off the softened paint with acetone dripping wet rag



Cheers
Mike

[fesm_ndt]

Basically a lot of it will be getting stripped back and blade fuses and more modern relays will be used.

Ok I am only up to page 16, so you may have this bit already. I got a couple, of these blade fuse relay blocks for another project, if you want one, I'll post it down. No use to me I think I got 4, 6 and 8 slot ones

I should have bought a 101 whilst I was in the UK for 6 months last time

[stuee]

Just a small update. I got the panels all stripped, just need to sand some sections, then drop off to the painters.

In the mean time I've just got back from a holiday with the now fiancée :D

I can now spend some of my money on the 101 without getting hassled :D

[stuee]

The front cab panels have now all been sent to the panel beaters for a coat of paint. Should have it back by the weekend!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/968.jpg

[stuee]

Ok I am only up to page 16, so you may have this bit already. I got a couple, of these blade fuse relay blocks for another project, if you want one, I'll post it down. No use to me I think I got 4, 6 and 8 slot ones

I should have bought a 101 whilst I was in the UK for 6 months last time

Thanks for the offer but I will be going a brand new wiring harness from Painless wiring at this stage. Its a universal kit with the a remote mount fuse and relay block so I can mount everything out of the cab and keep it relatively clean. Nice bits about the kit is that every wire is individually labelled so easy to track down and troubleshoot in the future.

[stuee]

Picked up two paint samples today to help settle on the final colour - was looking for sand colours. I have settled on the darker or dirtier colour depending on how you look at it. The brighter colour is a bit too yellow for my liking. The black part is to show how it will contrast with the bumpers, fuel tanks etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/892.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/893.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/894.jpg

Still yet to decide what colour the tilt will be painted. I could go a black one which I think would look rather slick, but the heat during the summer might be a bit unbearable. A matching sand colour might be a bit plain, but cooler. Potentially I could get two :twisted: Thoughts??

[Mick_Marsh]

I would be tempted to go the black. Remove the door tops and roll up the sides in summer.
A lighter colour is more practical though.

[lardy]

Why not go to protec two outlets in Perth they have various industrial paints for vehicles on the shelf (drabs) and they can knock up any colour you want, I suggest them because the single pack with an etch primer is easy as to apply.


Sent from my iPhone using Telepathy

[101RRS]

Stuee,

My 101 is standard olive drab as is the canvas. In summer on the road with sides up it can still get to 45-50 inside the cab and is normally 15 degrees hotter than outside temp - you can feel the heat coming in through the canvas above the cab.

I would definitely not get a black canvas - the body colour you are looking at is close to a standard series 3 Landrover colour (Baby Puke Yellow) and in my view a Sand Colour or even Olive Drab canvas will match the body quite well - don't paint it as the canvas will breakdown after a time. Have a look at the All Wheel Trim site as they do great work.

All Wheel Trim Ltd. Land Rover 101FC page (http://www.allwheeltrim.co.uk/LR101FC.html)

Garry

[stuee]

Stuee,

My 101 is standard olive drab as is the canvas. In summer on the road with sides up it can still get to 45-50 inside the cab and is normally 15 degrees hotter than outside temp - you can feel the heat coming in through the canvas above the cab.

I would definitely not get a black canvas - the body colour you are looking at is close to a standard series 3 Landrover colour (Baby Puke Yellow) and in my view a Sand Colour or even Olive Drab canvas will match the body quite well - don't paint it as the canvas will breakdown after a time. Have a look at the All Wheel Trim site as they do great work.

All Wheel Trim Ltd. Land Rover 101FC page (http://www.allwheeltrim.co.uk/LR101FC.html)

Garry

I currently have a new olive drab tilt that was manufactured locally for the previous owner. No idea on fit or finish, but my plan was to perhaps dye or paint that one and order a new colour one from All Wheel Trim (whom I got my inspiration for the sand colour). I may try it as is to see what it looks like, but if paint breaks down the canvas I will try and avoid it.

[101 Ron]

If you can not make up your mind , you can cover all bases by going to a Techicolour or camaflage paint job :D:D:D:D:D:D:p

[lardy]

Or do a custom insulation hard top cab by brad at west coast fabrication malaga,with extraction and air con then you can go mental with the canvas with no impact upon comfort!


Sent from my iPhone using Telepathy

[stuee]

They've come home. All nice and freshly painted.

Hopefully the only time anyone will ever see the front of a 101 in the back of a Nissan Patrol :p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/840.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/841.jpg

Laying some of the panels out. When they are spread out over the ground there's quite a lot there:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/842.jpg

Nose cone. Not sure if I'll have airflow problems if I don't end up using all those holes!!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/843.jpg

Its like a disco back here:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/844.jpg

Probably wont get to touch them till next weekend. Off to Brisbane for a training course tomorrow and need to get everything ready. I'm excited now though as its going to start taking shape!

[stuee]

I now also realise I've been quite slack in getting things done on the 101. Ideally before the whole cab goes on I should have fabricated a new alternator mount, sorted a vacuum issue out and replaced or overhauled the starter motor. All bits that wont be as easy to do with the cab on. Now I've to no excuses to get my bum into gear now.

For the alternator I've settled on the Commodore VN-VS V8 alternator. Ill pick up a cheapo 85A version from the wreckers which will be perfectly adequate for now, and later on I can upgrade to the 120A version with the same brackets if I eventually get round to fitting an electric winch.

120A version:
Genuine Holden VS Commodore Genuine Bosch 120Amp 5.0L V8 Alternator | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Holden-VS-Commodore-Genuine-Bosch-120Amp-5-0L-V8-Alternator-/150755917440?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2319c0be80)

For the starter motor I'm tempted to just order a new Bosch unit. They are about $400 but they are a quality unit and the one I had put in my disco before selling it was great. I have my old disco starter in there now but that is very slow, and the original starter doesn't even crank, but it is able to be overhauled with new brushes etc if required.

The vacuum issue is that the ignition seems to advance by 5-6 deg instead of the usual 2-3 with vacuum applied. I need to investigate if this is normal for the 101 (it doesn't appear to be the same for the RR of the same era) or if someone has opened up the vacuum port on the manifold.

[lardy]

If you hang on a while you can buy my perfectly working 3.5 original starter if you like, just gotta wait until I get the new turnkey engine shipped from Acr which will take a while as I am still stripping the wires.
Does that fit with you?


Sent from my iPhone using Telepathy

[101 Ron]

The after market starters(the latest Bosch ones ) are reduction drive types and are better in design with better throw in action causing less wear to the ring gear and the reduction drive using a smaller electric motor gives the battery a easier time.

Fitting a starter on with the cabin in place is not a problem.
Getting clearence for the battery cable and wiring away from the heat of the manifold at the starter is a bigger problem.
Note that 24 volt 101s did not run any vacuum advance with the distributor fitted to them.
I dont not Know if the 12 volt machines did or did not run vacuum advance.
All ex Aust army 101s were 24 volt and therefore most of the 101s in this country were 24 volt.
From factory there is a very slight horse power difference between 12 volt and 24 volt models ( for many reasons)
My 101 is running a civie 12 volt distributor from a early points range rover which has then had a electronic igintion conversion kit fitted.
The vacuum advance I feel is a good thing and may be a reason why my little 3.5 motor is delivering the goods.
A early points type dist is designed to run the vacuum pick up straight from the manifold.
Later electronic factory dist were most likely had anti polution gear in the vacuum line and a different advance curve for the anti polution motor.
You need to figure out what the setup your dist fitted was designed to run and then look if it is a good set up on a motor which doesnt need to run a anti polution advance curve and if it will work best for you on your motor and camshaft settings.

[lardy]

Stuee let me know what you sort out for the diff lock actuator to light to diff lock wiring wise I guess it would into the dash accessory setup of the top of my head.
Regards Andy


Sent from my iPhone using Telepathy

[stuee]

Thanks for the offer of the starter motor Andy. I'm still leaning towards the new starter for the reasons Ron mentions, but my old disco one should see me through till rego at least.

Regarding the difflock light, I will most likely make use of the accessories circuit if there is no spare power circuits from unused instruments, or none that I can share.

Thanks for the advice on the vacuum pickups Ron. I never knew they came out with different vacuum curves. The 101 definitely has no pollution gear that I'm aware of (none that came with the car anyway :angel: ) so thats possibly why its got more advance at idle than we expected. Ill put a post up on the UK board to see what they are all getting.

Otherwise I got stuck into assembling some panels today. Some J-Nuts I needed for assembly that looked a bit mucky so I gave them a clean and a quick spray:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/569.jpg

When holding the panels together for fitting I used the same technique as last time but used fibre washers to protect the paint:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/570.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/571.jpg

The first of the freshly painted panels to be joined:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/572.jpg

Starting to resemble a seat box:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/573.jpg

Done for the day (note the colour appears very yellow in the following pictures but is much closer to the above pics in real life):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/574.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/575.jpg

[lardy]

Hey Stuee,
No worries mate, I am going for a newly built 3.9 injected version of the v8, as mentioned previously I was looking at putting a disco lump in and it just becomes too hard living up here.
So this should give me some semblance of an eeking of any economy to be found driving a petrol powered house brick.
Your panels are looking the dogs knackers good effort!
How you going on it, still enthusiastic?
Regards Andy


Sent from my iPhone using Telepathy

[stuee]

Hey Stuee,
No worries mate, I am going for a newly built 3.9 injected version of the v8, as mentioned previously I was looking at putting a disco lump in and it just becomes too hard living up here.
So this should give me some semblance of an eeking of any economy to be found driving a petrol powered house brick.
Your panels are looking the dogs knackers good effort!
How you going on it, still enthusiastic?
Regards Andy


Sent from my iPhone using Telepathy

Be interesting to hear how it goes with the efi 3.9. Are you going to use the land rover ecu or go an aftermarket system like motec/haltech/megasquirt?

Seeing some painted panels come together has been a real morale boost. Its hard to keep motivated just looking at a chassis with wheels and an engine. Hopefully when things like the steering, brakes and clutch all start coming together and I can sneak small drives in around the block, then the build should really take off.

[lardy]

I presumed ACR would use a rover management system as its a bus, any benefits using the other ones? I think we are looking to maximise any economy to be gleaned whilst retain performance or am I wrong?

Yeah from memories of doing my 130 it's kind of disappointing having parts all over the drive awaiting the rebuild.

I was going to lift the body on the ambulance and take that crud off the chassis, but I am not inclined too living in a cyclone area, it could turn into a disaster once it's been over the pits I will take it to the garage in town ( he said i could use his ramps) to give it a going over with the air chisel hopefully that moves that stuff on!
Though after reading your previous articles I am doubtful. Andy.


Sent from my iPhone using Telepathy

[stuee]

I presumed ACR would use a rover management system as its a bus, any benefits using the other ones? I think we are looking to maximise any economy to be gleaned whilst retain performance or am I wrong?


I have no problem with the 14CUX (standard rover) system apart from the cost of the MAF. From memory the cost of a genuine MAF was around $1300-1400 (not a typo). I tried 3 Chinese aftermarket MAF's when my disco one died and all were crap. I was saved by another forum member when they sold me their second hand MAF after converting to a wolf EFI system. I couldn't justify the cost when it was close to 20% of the cars value. If you go that way just don't use an oil type air filter (i.e K&N) as the oil can land on the hotwire and ruin it.

Otherwise I thought it was a pretty basic system to trouble shoot and work with once you've been shown around it or read up on it.

If my second hand MAF had died I was going to fit a DIY Megasquirt EFI system (at a cost of around $700) but that would have been a lot of work.


I was going to lift the body on the ambulance and take that crud off the chassis, but I am not inclined too living in a cyclone area, it could turn into a disaster once it's been over the pits I will take it to the garage in town ( he said i could use his ramps) to give it a going over with the air chisel hopefully that moves that stuff on!
Though after reading your previous articles I am doubtful.

I think you would only need to take the bitumen coat off the chassis if you have rust problems (either existing or starting). The previous owner stripped back my 101 due to rotten sections of the chassis failing the rego inspection so it was all stripped back and sandblasted to be repaired. If you don't have rust you may be able to keep it on and just keep on top of it by checking on it regularly and filling the chassis with cavity wax or fish-oil (I'll be doing this closer to the finish as a preventative).

It has been a royal bugger of a job stripping back the ally panels but its been worth it on the cab now I see the results. I just dont know if I will be able to repeat the effort for the tray. Its a bit easier getting it off the steel items like the diff housings and chassis as they can be hit with a coarse wire brush wheel (messy but reasonably effective) or a low powered air chisel.

One thing I'd like to try is dry-ice blasting. I don't know how much it is but I'm told once you get the bitumen cold enough it cracks off quite easily. Either that or dry ice and chiselling by hand again. It might be an enjoyable exercise with the dry ice up where you are:D

[stuee]

Watched a movie called Killer Elite last night. It has a sand coloured 101 in a very similar colour scheme to what I'm doing, even shows me what an olive drab tilt might look like on it:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/513.jpg

A link to screenshots of 101's used in movies (quite a few sand coloured ones):
IMCDb.org: Land-Rover 101 FC in movies and TV series (http://www.imcdb.org/vehicles.php'make=Land-Rover&model=101+FC&modelMatch=1&modelInclModel=on)

[lardy]

In reverse order doesn't killer elite have half of solihull's early productions 2b's scene at the airport, 101's, range rover classic, I think even 110's.
I watched a film in recent months (and it may have been that film) where a landy gets blown up !
No warning at all during the titles, very distressing,something like' this film may show images of land rovers that are deceased, also the soundtrack may contain the engine noise of a deceased land rovers' that would have helped lol.

The chassis looks good, rear crossmember is solid, there is some light surface rust where the bitch has come away on the edge of the out riggers, to my mind wire brush and waxoyl is my friend, I don't believe in fish oil it's unscientific, just cos fish don't rust don't prove anything lol!

The ecu sounds a joy!!
I wouldn't knowingly touch anything Chinese, they tend to make you pay now and pay again later, with their cheap quickly turned out junk.
Like my LED's -speaker is a notable company in the states to buy LED's from, you can buy Chinese gear but you might buy it twice.


Sent from my iPhone using Telepathy

[stuee]

Didn't get a great deal done today but got the remaining parts of the chassis painted and ready to start mounting the cab on:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/171.jpg

Forgot to put a picture up of the seat box with the frames added last week:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/172.jpg

I'll try and finish the second seat box tomorrow and hopefully at least rest them in position on the chassis.

Finally I got bored this evening so I fitted my three gauges to the dash board to see what they look like. Don't know why I left the test points in for painting but oh well. May pull them out, apply some touch up paint underneath and give them a clean. Plenty of time to do that though.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/173.jpg

[stuee]

Spent most of today cleaning the threads on the cab mounting nuts and bolts, also got pulled aside to help with the gardening.

Bolts in much better shape than they were. Rust and crud all gone from the threads:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/103.jpg

Seat box in place:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/104.jpg

What I can only assume the cab shims are for:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/105.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/106.jpg

Other than these spots I don't know how you determine where they go. The whole lots still a bit flexible and its very difficult to tell if its all squared up.

Finally, my first time sitting in a 101 :D:D:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/107.jpg

[lardy]

Thread cleaning good effort, worth it in the long run.
Spoke to Roland@ACR regarding the ECU on this engine def not a flapper he said they sucked more than a popular lady at one of those houses of I'll repute?!
You sat in your very own 101 go you, ya legend.
Obviously work safe have inspected your PPE and deemed it safe for example the steel toe cap thongs lol, you must be freezing down there in Perth aren't ya?
Order for the engine going in tomorrow night hopefully yay!!!
Regards Andy

[stuee]

Andy, PPE has been somewhat lacking during this project. The only areas I haven't been skimping on are hearing and vision protection - all free from work. The rest is just down to laziness.

This weekend I got the other seat box mounted up and have been working on getting the front nose cone on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1676.jpg

Nose cone sitting in place so I can see how much work its going to be:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1677.jpg

This will be a challenge to get the cover attached to the nose cone under the seat box with the way I have assembled everything so far. I've figured out what I need to do but I have run out of seam sealer tape so will have to wait till I get some more before I can proceed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1678.jpg

[lardy]

Always the way stu, you always run out of something at the wrong time,
Thongs are out for me now I can be putting up with the ali swarfe

[stuee]

Edit*** Ignore the below I'm an idiot. I loosened up the bolts between the nose cone and the u-section and there was enough adjustment to bring it down when the bolts between the nose cone and bumper/galv rail were tightened.

I'm putting the front nose cone on today and it doesnt sit flush with the front bumper or the outer galvanised seat box rail.

Looking at it it appears that spacers may have been used but I can not find any reference to any in this location, only between the cab itself and the chassis.

The nose cone itself is mounted to the steel U-section (shown in previous pics) via 8mm bolts. There is no slots to adjust the height so I can't adjust the nose cone down.

I have one bolt in on the drivers side but if I tighten it any more it will bend the aluminium down, and seeing as it was only slightly deformed around the bolt that goes into the bumper I cant imagine it was like this when it was disassembled.

Is anyone able to have a look at their 101 and tell me how its mounted up front? I'm happy that the bumper may have been bent out of shape, hence why it may have a gap but there should not be one between the front and the galv rail as there is no room for adjustment and its not been bent out of place.

Area I am talking about:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1224.jpg

Drivers side with one bolt in the front (other bolt goes to galvanised rail):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1225.jpg

Passenger side:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1226.jpg

[lardy]

The bumper is slightly out i think few mm and it's a land rover!!!! if I get outta jail early tomorrow I'll have a gander for you

[MudSkull]

Lookin great Stuee! Its going to be awesome when finished.

[101RRS]

Hi Stuee - something is a bit out of alignment with your bumper - the drivers side end is sticking out about the right amount but is not right closer to the tunnel. Has your bumper got a bend in it.

See pics below which are pretty obvious.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/2012-08-13_16-13-38_470.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/2012-08-13_16-13-28_961.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/2012-08-13_16-13-21_781.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/2012-08-13_16-13-11_358.jpg

Garry

[stuee]

The bumper is out of shape but I did have to push the centre of the nose back to be able to rivet up the tunnel cover to the seat boxes (I have no idea what the proper terminology is here :confused:). The seam sealer tape on the bottom of the nose cone was gripping the bumper so it wouldnt slide back easily (hence why its in that position in the shots above. Needed to give it a few gentle thumps. It looks much closer to what yours does now.

Your bumper looks lovely and straight though. Mine has a good bend on the passenger side from an obvious knock and poor repair job while the drivers side also has a very slight bend in it. Plan is to fabricate a new one when its on the road, build a winch cradle into it and brackets to take some modern light fittings. Still want to keep it as close to original looking though.

I should get some shots of it all riveted up but its under a cover atm as it was bucketing down on the weekend.

[brs_eg]

looking great

[lardy]

So how far from the pits is it now stu ?

[stuee]

So how far from the pits is it now stu ?

Unfortunately no, a bit of a set back if anything. We found out our dogs hips are pretty much stuffed, despite buying from a proper breeder with all the right paperwork (all hip and elbow passed as pups and the parents too), correct diet and exercise. One looks as though its almost dislocated so she is being operated on in November to get a replacement hip. We are insured which will cover the costs but we need to pay approx $8 grand up front then claim it back. Rather than borrow money then pay it back once the insurance money comes in we are trying to pay as much as we can upfront ourselves. This means zero funds being spent on the 101.

In addition to this we've had to do some mods to the house, mainly a small deck and ramp outside the back door so we are able to move her easily through the rehab stages. Its a good 500mm drop out the back door (down steps obviously) and this would have been too much for her new hip to take fresh out of surgery. This alone has cost another $1600 or so, but its something we were looking at doing down the track anyway, just less the ramp. And this has stopped me from doing any of the basic work on the 101 (like cleaning and painting parts).

So basically the 101 has been left under covers since my last post and probably wont come back out again till I have some spare time after the shut-down at work next month and then looking after the dog after her surgery.

:(

[lardy]

Tracey and Doug wish her well!
Douggie fur banks has crook hips too 50737

[lardy]

Hey Stu,
How's the dog going?
Any time with the 101 of late?
Andy

[Mick_Marsh]

A bit chilly, windy and wet over there at the moment I guess.
I think he'd be huddled up indoors.

[stuee]

Hi guys. The dog is going well, she's on a nice cocktail of painkiller and anti-inflammatory meds that will see her through to the operation. Haven't had any spare time to work on the 101, although I did have to drag it out the carport to get a split system air-conditioner installed. I've been spending my time building the deck out the back to make departing the house a little easier.

From this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/69.jpg

To this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/70.jpg

Build album: Deck pictures by stuee69 - Photobucket (http://s570.beta.photobucket.com/user/stuee69/library/Deck?view=media#)

Also have a wider standalone ramp to finish which will let us walk Lilly outside much easier with her sling on. But yes the weather has been pretty miserable. Lovely weekend this weekend though, will try and finish off some back yard work then should finally have some time to spend on the 101. Wanting to get the steering sorted but in need of ball-joints which require $$$ I don't have atm so will relegate myself to cleaning and painting parts.

[101RRS]

Haven't had any spare time to work on the 101, although I did have to drag it out the carport to get a split system air-conditioner installed.

A split system is a bit over the top for the 101 - why not just put in a basic car system. ;)

Garry

[Mick_Marsh]

Now there's an idea.
http://www.2dayblog.com/images/2009/august/diyairconditioning.jpg
Split system would be perfect for the back.

[lardy]

Glad all is well mate, even if life has got in the way of the rebuild.
My issue is how to remove the fan pulley at the moment is there some kind of puller for that?
I am dismantling the engine ready to remove it.
Shipping the new one from the uk as of Monday apparently, I held the process up by sticking a second spare in with it I purchased from the uk.
Andy

[lardy]

Any new news on the 101 stu?

[stuee]

Any new news on the 101 stu?

Hey Andy,

The shut-down at work has dragged on for an additional two weeks. I should have been done and dusted by the 20th but we're only looking at starting up over the weekend. Its stuffed me because Lilly has just gone in for her hip replacement and I've had to scrap getting my wisdom teeth pulled which has cost me $800 (will get it back eventually though).

In my spare time I have been soaking the brake drums with Penetrate and WD40 to try and get them off without breaking the casting. Have also put grease nipples on all the tie rod ends and purchased new rubbers as most rod ends were in good nick just the grease was dried up and rubbers perished. Have also painted the steering rods with some Rust Guard but now need to give them a top coat with the KBS Top Coat I have left to give them a bit more of a durable finish.

Once I have the drums off I can see the condition of the slave cylinders and see if I can rebuild them or if I need to buy new ones.

I have all of January off to take my turn looking after the dog (three months of recovery) so will hopefully get lots done then along with a never-ending list of things to do on the house.

Cheers,
Stu

[101RRS]

Once I have the drums off I can see the condition of the slave cylinders and see if I can rebuild them or if I need to buy new ones.



Buy new ones - is generally cheaper than trying to releeve etc. I would plan on buying all six - they are not as expensive as you think. Also make sure you put in new rubber brake hoses and when you get the drums off measure them carefully and if on the limit get new ones or you will have major issues bleeding and adjusting the brakes up.

Cheers

Garry

[lardy]

When you say slave cylinders after taking the drums off you must mean wheel cylinders right?
Also does the dog seem perky enough since getting fixed up, they are remarkably resilient to pain dogs

[101RRS]

When you say slave cylinders after taking the drums off you must mean wheel cylinders right?


Same thing - the master is the thing your foot pushes - the slave is the cylinder that reacts - the wheel cylinder :)

Garry

[stuee]

Also does the dog seem perky enough since getting fixed up, they are remarkably resilient to pain dogs

Lilly was happy to be home. We got her a day early as she was recovering very well. Unfortunately she'll be confined to a crate for three months until the bone can grow onto the new hip socket and all walks outside will on a lead and with a sling under her belly as a precaution in case she slips.

She's quite content in her crate atm as I imagine she is still in a lot of pain, plus her meds all have lethargy as a side affect although I don't know what she'll be like in 4 - 8 weeks time when most of the muscle has healed. Apparently she will have been in extreme pain for quite some time with the bones grinding away on one another, quite surprising really considering her temperament, but the surgeon said that pain would basically have been swapped for surgical pain (i.e being cut open). She rarely whimpers and if it wasnt for her original limp we would have never known.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/52.jpg

Bit depressing right now but hopefully it means her quality of life will be greatly improved after the next 12 weeks.

[lardy]

Poor pup, she really don't look very old at all that sucks.
On the good side hopefully her quality of life will improve dramatically for the better.
Douggie (3) gets up like an old man after a long lay down but overall gets around ok at the moment.
Cheers for letting us know how she is going
Andy

[stuee]

Well the shutdown is over at work so I am slowly getting used to normal hours again. Have started playing with the 101 a bit more and struggling with removing the drums. They've (well I've only been looking at the drivers front one atm) been soaking in a combination of penetrate and Wd-40 for over two weeks now. Using the an impact driver and the tap for loosening the brake drum I appear to have unseized half of the brake drum and if the land rover engineers had put a second tap in I probably would have all the drums off and be asking a different brake related question by now. As such I have resorted to a rubber mallet which did nothing, a 4lb'er with a block of wood and various tapping with a normal ball pein hammer which also have done nothing.

Suggestions from work are an oxy to heat it up and destroy anything that resembles a seal in the hub while I'm at it and various websites show how using a full sized sledge hammer direct on the drum can work. I was hoping to save the drums but I'm now slowly realizing that it may not be possible.

Any helpful hints? I'm assuming once I start belting the drums direct with a 4lb'er or applying heat they are no good to re-use. In which case where to buy new? I see Anthony over east has the fronts at a reasonable price. Do you guys just run these front and back? I believe from reading on the 101 club forum that the rear drums are narrower but can be substituted by fronts, just not the other way around??

[stuee]

Also some pics of whats been happening (note there's none of the brakes because they've not been happening :mad:).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/890.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/891.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/892.jpg

[chazza]

Suggestions from work are an oxy to heat it up and destroy anything that resembles a seal in the hub while I'm at it and various websites show how using a full sized sledge hammer direct on the drum can work. I was hoping to save the drums but I'm now slowly realizing that it may not be possible.

Any helpful hints? I'm assuming once I start belting the drums direct with a 4lb'er or applying heat they are no good to re-use.

Just in case you have forgotten to do it - are the brake adjusters backed right off?

If you have got the drum moving away from the hub that is a good thing - is it able to spin freely? if it sticks, or won't spin, then I suspect that a wheel cylinder is stuck in the out position; or the drum is full of of sand and rubbish, in which case rotating it with a bar through the protected wheel studs should clear most of it away.

On my S1 I unbolted the backing plate and released the hub nut so that the whole assembly could come off and then I could undo the wheel cylinders and bash the drum off, after drilling through the slotted piece on the wheel cylinder piston. This didn't harm the drums but in my case they were knackered anyway.

Alternatively; there is a tool called a brake-drum-puller, which should do the job provided the wheel cylinders are not stuck in the out possie. It may be possible to buy one but I would ask the garages in your area if you could hire one for the day. If you are handy with making things, it would not be very hard to make a puller. Unfortunately I don't own one myself, otherwise you could borrow it,

Cheers Charlie

[101RRS]

I had similar problems getting my 101 drums off - as mentioned make sure the adjusters etc are loosened off and of course the drum retaining screws have been removed.

The drums tend to be held in by corrosion around the wheel studs and against the hub. Lots of penetrating oil is needed and the drum need to come off square or else it jams. I found lots of baby taps around the back of the drum and some more hefty taps to the side of the drums help - always applying more penetrating oil. Be careful as bits of the mud guard at the rear of the drum easily breaks off.

New drums will be hard to find in Aust - do not rely on Anthony's website and I would be ringing him to find out availability. My drums were out of specs and I needed new ones and while Anthony's site had them listed he had no new drums but did have a good set of second hand ones. These are now down to to min specs and I will need to get new ones soon.

So if you can try to save your drums as it will be an expensive exercise to get new ones - probably from the UK as unless you got lucky, Anthony would be about the only one to have some - and could be second hand.

Garry

[chazza]

So if you can try to save your drums as it will be an expensive exercise to get new ones - probably from the UK

Garry

Suffering snakes you are not wrong Garry! :eek: 89 to 127 Pounds each!

If I had a car with stupid prices such as that, I would make a pattern; build myself a real furnace and cast new ones myself!

Another useful technique to free a drum stuck to the hub is to whack the face of the drum between the wheel-studs with a heavy hammer, firmly and several times; the rust gives up the ghost before too long,

Cheers Charlie

[101RRS]

My second hand ones were $100 ea plus postage four years ago.

Garry

[stuee]

The retaining screws are out, the adjusters are wound right back and I can rotate the drum easily for 95% of the rotation then it appears as if theres some crap starting to grab.

When I've used the extractor screw its like the drum is peeling off the hub. Its like its screwed in on the opposite side, except that it isn't so I am assuming its rusted onto the hub as it doesn't even move a whisker.

I thought Anthony's website might have been too good to be true after seeing the prices from places like John Craddock etc.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

[stuee]

Success!! I think this bit was the key:


the drum need to come off square or else it jams

Need to work your way around the whole disc moving it only a fraction at a time. The brakes were in a terrible state. Pretty much nothing left on the pads, hopefully the drums are in good nic. The speedo only has a small amount of kilometres on it so its possible its still the original set of pads??

Now to give it a degrease and a hose down and have a close look at everything.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/862.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/863.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/864.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/865.jpg

PS I really don't like the new photobucket. Not nearly as quick to copy the links to pictures into a thread any more.

[stuee]

Now I'm going to have a stab in the dark and guess that this is the reason that I couldn't rotate the axle assembly completely and perhaps why it was such a pain to get off. Probably the cause for the uneven wear as well...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/860.jpg

Edit*** It was exactly the same on the bottom slave cylinder so that's why both pads would be naffed the way they are. I hope this hasnt translated to too much uneven wear on the drum. Will have to get it cleaned up and have a look.

[stuee]

Looking at the work involved in getting to the brakes I'll probably have to replace the bearings as well, and the axle seals. So essentially a full lot of consumables for the axles and a full set of slave cylinders and pads. I may as well order all the other bits and pieces I know I need at this stage to try and cut down on costs.

What are peoples experiences ordering parts from the club? I gather its not the easiest or quickest thing in the world but they seem a cheaper than elsewhere which is probably why they've had a massive loss this year. What sort of turn around time have people experienced ordering parts from the club? Weeks? Months?

[Sleepy]

G'day Stuee,
I've been lurking for months and enjoying your build. I have bought a few items from Darren at the 101 Club. Despite others complaints, my experience has been pretty good. He is a bit slow to answer emails (say 1-2 weeks) but once I got the order rolling (credit card/email) it all happened pretty quick. So I guess a month to 6 weeks turn around.

Yeah I reckon they have room to improve the service, but without much competition there isn't really the motivation for them.

[chazza]

Looking at the work involved in getting to the brakes I'll probably have to replace the bearings as well, and the axle seals. So essentially a full lot of consumables for the axles and a full set of slave cylinders and pads.

Good plan Stuee!

If you take the shoes to Perth Brake Parts they can re-line them for you, or exchange them if they have them in stock. They can also re-sleeve the wheel cylinders in stainless steel, which may be cheaper than buying new ones but they will also last for a very long time, unlike cast-iron, or aluminium. If you need new hoses they make them as well and they can machine your drums if they are not oversize.

Incidentally; drum brakes have shoes and disc brakes have pads so I thought I should mention it in case there is confusion over the phone,

Cheers Charlie

[stuee]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll take the cylinders to Perth brake parts to see what they can rebuild them for vs what new ones cost.

[101RRS]

The brakes (not the drums) are stock standard series 3 six cylinder long wheel base so parts are easy to get and reasonably cheap. I got my wheel cylinders from FWDs in Melbourne and not had any issues with them - were quite cheap. Brake shoes I got from my local brake supplier again quite cheap - however do not buy them until you have sorted out what you are doing with your drums. Mine, while not new were only a little worn and I had to get oversize shoes.

Clearly stainless releeved is very good but in my experience more expensive that new repros which I have found to be OK.

Garry

[lardy]

I have ordered a load of parts from the 101 club and they should be rocking up this week, as I am not at the brake section of my build if there are parts you need and I have them, we could do an exchange if you like stu, then you order the parts yourself but send them here.
See how you go!
Lastly I wish people would get their brains around the fact that Darren has a full time job, and the storemen for the 101 club are volunteers so its a case of be patient I reckon!
I also use famous four in louth lincolnshire for 101 parts they can identify the old rover part numbers that the club use, if they are stocked they can get em.
Ask for Chris and say andy says g'day

[101RRS]

Lastly I wish people would get their brains around the fact that Darren has a full time job, and the storemen for the 101 club are volunteers so its a case of be patient I reckon!


I would normally agree but this aspect of the clubs operation is being essentially run as a business - if there is too much business for volunteers then the club needs to take action to deal with this. I am still waiting for some parts that I ordered and paid for back in 2009 - I have raised the issue a couple of times with them since but nothing has happened. While they do have a good parts range I would rather pay a little more elsewhere and be assured of getting parts in a few days to a week rather than months or maybe never.

Garry

[101 Ron]

I have just recently purchased new wheel cylinders and brake shoes for the front brakes on my 101 from AJ...........the whole lot cost about $200 dollars delivered.

[101 Ron]

One of the original owners of my 101 imported many parts as spares for it, many years ago.
under the for sale section recently those parts have been offered for sale.
I have placed my name on the lights and rubber fuel filter pipe.......the owner of these parts is a friend of mine.
I think there is some new brake drums in the offering ?
Ron

[stuee]

One of the original owners of my 101 imported many parts as spares for it, many years ago.
under the for sale section recently those parts have been offered for sale.
I have placed my name on the lights and rubber fuel filter pipe.......the owner of these parts is a friend of mine.
I think there is some new brake drums in the offering ?
Ron

Was that posted on this forum or on the 101 club forum? I'm keen to see what spares he has if he has any left.

[101 Ron]

It was this forum........I cannot find it .
I think it was under parts for sale..........was the tread deleted ??????

[stuee]

Well, have been slowly hacking away at the 101 in the bits of spare time I have had. Have also ordered a few bits and pieces, the biggest orders being the wiring kit and a large order from the club (that's yet to be processed as they are on break still).

The wiring kit:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1111.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1112.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1113.jpg

Roughly where it will be located:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1114.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1115.jpg

The loom makes little use of relays except for the horn so I will be putting in a separate fuse block and set of relays for the headlights and future spotlights and accessories. Looking at this unit which would make it easy to integrate with what I have:
Blue Sea Blade Fuse Block With Cover Negative Bus 5025 Marine 4x4 4WD Caravan | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Blue-Sea-Blade-Fuse-Block-With-Cover-Negative-Bus-5025-Marine-4x4-4WD-Caravan-/271011625750?pt=AU_Boat_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f198d3b16&_uhb=1)

I've been working on the dash and instruments in the meantime getting them ready for the wiring:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1116.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1117.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1118.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1119.jpg

Both my mechanical gauges are naffed so have ordered a new oil temp gauge through John Craddock and as Water Temp gauges seem unavailable at reasonable prices or not at all I will probably substitute it with a series 3 electrical water temp gauge. I am going to see what it costs to repair them but the Perth based company I tried to contact are on leave till mid-late Jan.

I'm also chasing new ignition switch (one that I have the key for...) and a new wiper switch, both of which are in sorry states or got damaged removing them from the dash. I'm looking at a generic Cole Hersse wiper switch rather than the series 3 units but yet to find a supplier online that can ship them at a good price or locally.

I've also done some work cleaning up some of the remaining switch gear and usable gauges but dont appear to have any pictures of these yet so will post them later.

At the moment I'm cleaning up the frames that tie in between the tray and cab (the frames that house the air filter and fuel filler hose) so that I can get the battery tray sorted and mount the fuse box to start the wiring. Until I get my parts from the 101 club there's not a great deal I can do on the brakes or hubs.

Finally a pic of the 101 as it stands right now:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1120.jpg

[stuee]

As I cant clean up some of the indication lights in the dash I've found some LED replacements from RS that should do the trick:

Red: Buy Indicators LED,indicator,12mm mount,prominent,snap fit,plastic housing,12Vdc,high eff,red RS Q12P3BXXSR12 online from RS for next day delivery. (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/indicators/0206384/)
Green: Buy Indicators LED,indicator,12mm mount,prominent,snap fit,plastic housing,12Vdc,green RS Q12P3BXXG12 online from RS for next day delivery. (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/indicators/0209046/)
Yellow (not orange): Buy Indicators LED,indicator,12mm mount,prominent,snap fit,plastic housing,12Vdc,yellow RS Q12P3BXXY12 online from RS for next day delivery. (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/indicators/0209024/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1107.jpg

Other small items I need to sort out are a new labels for the diff lock light, and all the external dash ones (wiper, six pos light switch, panel lights etc). Don't quite know how I'll do these yet. If anyone has a reasonably priced source please let me know.

edit* I'll also be looking to scrap the infra red light but put a spotlight switch in its place on the dash. Will probably scrap the instrument lights switch as well as I cant see a need for this, but again will keep a similar looking switch for some rear/work lights or something. Not quite original function but looks original.

[AndrewGJones]

really enjoyed going through this thread last night stuee, thanks. Great choice of colour too.

[101RRS]

Other small items I need to sort out are a new labels for the diff lock light, and all the external dash ones (wiper, six pos light switch, panel lights etc). Don't quite know how I'll do these yet. If anyone has a reasonably priced source please let me know.



They regularly come up on ebay UK

[lardy]

Stu why don't you use Armadale hot rods for your ignition switch etc?
If you are using their loom the indicators and wipers will be all good

[stuee]

Stu why don't you use Armadale hot rods for your ignition switch etc?
If you are using their loom the indicators and wipers will be all good

Ignition switch isn't an issue, I can pick up a replacement item from over east for under $30.

Wiper switches aren't as straight forward as you need one that suites the wiper motor. The standard 101 unit is a single speed unit without dynamic parking. I've found the switch I want that will work with the the current motor and any later model defender motor with dual speeds. I just need to chase up the supplier. Alternatively, after showing a mate who has access to a machine shop he reckons the thread on my switch that is naffed can be re-cut and new nuts made up or found. If I can get it done for free Ill use that.

I don't know if the mob you are referring to is this one: hot rod parts-performance car parts Perth-armadaleauto parts - Home (http://www.armadaleautoparts.com/index.htm) but I went through Summit Racing in the US. That website has a different brand of wiring harness. Any switch will work though provided its the correct type for the motor.

At the moment though I'm still waiting for my order (approx £775 worth) with the 101 club to be processed (as in tell me if the parts are in stock and debit my card). I confirmed what I wanted, provided my CC details nearly a month ago now and not heard back since as they appear to be tied up with the launch of the new online shop (that international buyers cant use...). Cant say I wasn't really expecting this though. Will give it a few more weeks before pulling the pin and sourcing the bits I need now elsewhere.

[banjo]

Hi stuee can i ask where you got the wireing harness.I just looked at the hot rod link they have a 11 circuit kit..I like the look of yours ,Better fuse block.I have looked for the PAINLESS kits but was'nt able to find any..Are they expensive.


Thanks Jason