Rear Trailing Arms [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

CraigE

3rd July 2011, 08:46 PM

While replacing brake pads today noticed that the pass side rear trailing arm / lower link has a bit of a bend in it. What is the best option for replacement? I am thinking about cranked units to allow for the 2" lift. Am I better off going standard cranked units or maybe rose joint units? Obviously rose jont units will be dearer. Who are the best manufacturers and is it worthwhile looking in Australia?
Thanks
Craig

inside

3rd July 2011, 08:56 PM

lambrover

4th July 2011, 08:07 AM

The rose jointed ones are noisy on road as well as they transmit the road noise into the chassis. I would look in the uk buy a britsh landy mag and look in the adds there are heaps

ugu80

4th July 2011, 09:45 AM

Slunnie

4th July 2011, 11:39 AM

ugu80

4th July 2011, 12:26 PM

I'd just go HD straight ones. Don't go cranked unless you have a specific reason that necessitates them - bent ones are weak by design. If you need the angle up at the chassis mount then try offset bushes at that location.

So what makes them the best arms on the market?

· Firstly we use CDS tube (cold drawn seamless tube) this is one of the best and strongest tubes on the market. This type of tube conforms to FIA specifications when building roll cages and has excellent bending and welding qualities.

· The tubes are bent using a £30,000 plus CNC tube bender. Other companies use cheaper manual benders which you can buy for around £100 from your local DIY shop. Out of interest we stuck one of our trailing arm tubes in a 12 ton one of these and guess what? It Bent the bender before it bent the tube!

· So why don’t we have bits of angle iron welded to the bottom of arms? Simple, the only reason why manufactures do this is because their tube isn’t up to the job to start with.

Sounds pretty strong to me.
p.s. just noticed they've gone up 10 quid since I bought a couple of weeks ago. Good timing for once in my life.

isuzurover

4th July 2011, 12:40 PM

Firstly we use CDS tube (cold drawn seamless tube) this is one of the best and strongest tubes on the market. This type of tube conforms to FIA specifications when building roll cages and has excellent bending and welding qualities.

The tubes are bent using a £30,000 plus CNC tube bender. Other companies use cheaper manual benders which you can buy for around £100 from your local DIY shop. Out of interest we stuck one of our trailing arm tubes in a 12 ton one of these and guess what? It Bent the bender before it bent the tube!

So why don’t we have bits of angle iron welded to the bottom of arms? Simple, the only reason why manufactures do this is because their tube isn’t up to the job to start with.

They sound fine, but the same CDS tube without the bend would be stronger. And IMHO for a 2" lift the cranked arms aren't really needed.

Countys have thicker trailing arms than defenders. However I laminated my arms myself by sleeving them with tube (CDS I think). I have air springs, so can run any lift I want - but usually have them set 0-2"

ugu80

4th July 2011, 12:44 PM

I reckon 12 ton plus to bend will do me just fine. As to why. Went to 'the Cape' last year and came across a 130 with a left trailing arm imitating a boomerang. Guy said he was coming up slippery slope from one of the creeks (Palm Creek actually) spinning the rear wheels a bit when the left one suddenly caught traction and the rod just gave way. Sort of been worrying me ever since. For me, the peace of mind will be worth it.

Slunnie

4th July 2011, 02:05 PM

So what makes them the best arms on the market?

· Firstly we use CDS tube (cold drawn seamless tube) this is one of the best and strongest tubes on the market. This type of tube conforms to FIA specifications when building roll cages and has excellent bending and welding qualities.

· The tubes are bent using a £30,000 plus CNC tube bender. Other companies use cheaper manual benders which you can buy for around £100 from your local DIY shop. Out of interest we stuck one of our trailing arm tubes in a 12 ton one of these and guess what? It Bent the bender before it bent the tube!

· So why don’t we have bits of angle iron welded to the bottom of arms? Simple, the only reason why manufactures do this is because their tube isn’t up to the job to start with.

Sounds pretty strong to me.
p.s. just noticed they've gone up 10 quid since I bought a couple of weeks ago. Good timing for once in my life.

The links may be fine, but as said the bend still makes them weaker. You cant defy physics. What is typed is also marketting. The material and manufacture process is nice to know and those aspects are FIA approved, but it doesn't tell you anything about the strength. An $800 JD2 bender will bend that material easily and repeatably all day and all night etc.

This is what the bends induce, and yes this was a HD unbreakable one.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1276.jpg

ugu80

4th July 2011, 02:14 PM

Slunnie

4th July 2011, 03:45 PM

Actually went to a place called 3rds Productions of Blacktown, famous amongst Nissan the crowd for making trailing arms for Patrols. Found out he has also made a few super strong (and straight) trailing arms for Defenders. Went around there and he has been gone (retired) for a couple of months. Sold the business to another guy but he wouldn't do the Defender arms.
Thats a shame, Andy (aloa????) on here pushed Fernando???? to make these for Rovers after his suspension folded up at Mt Walker, Lithgow. They looked like they were quite good and as far as I know are still going strong with their new owner after many years of tuff trips and heavy remote touring. I wonder why the new manufacturer stopped making them - a shame.

CraigE

4th July 2011, 04:00 PM

I've read rose joints are illegal. Problem is they don't progressively wear like a rubber joint hence they're not allowed. I like these ones http://www.rovertym.com/index.php/Defender-110/Rear-Link-Assembly-with-Bushings.html#

Does anyone know if these will fit a 2000 Defender. The guy in the US is not sure as they only have the older model 110s in the States.

roverrescue

4th July 2011, 04:19 PM

isuzurover

4th July 2011, 04:47 PM

Just do this
"However I laminated my arms myself by sleeving them with tube (CDS I think)"

Or be cheap and use NB32 Heavy. It is 42mm OD with 4mm wall. Sleeves stock arms nicely. A laminated straight arm will be stronger than any single wall seamless tube or pipe.

Steve

Yes indeed. I just used what I had lying around. CDS is something like 25% stronger than equivalent OD NB pipe, but a sleeved standard arm will be stronger again.

Here are mine - hard to judge the diameter from the pic, but compare the diameter to the pin diameter and the size of the bush.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

The late model arms aren't much thicker than the pin diameter :eek:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/745.jpg

86mud

4th July 2011, 05:32 PM

Sith

4th July 2011, 08:34 PM

I have a set for sale but they are 6deg cranked so anything over a 3 inch lift .

I would go Welcome to Rovertym! (http://www.rovertym.com) ..... they are built super strong RHS

CraigE

4th July 2011, 11:10 PM

I have a set for sale but they are 6deg cranked so anything over a 3 inch lift .

I would go Welcome to Rovertym! (http://www.rovertym.com) ..... they are built super strong RHS

I am thinking going with Rovertym, they seem the goods. I gather the specs for the trailing arm have not changed in 20 odd years as the US they dont have the Extremes. Just want to be sure they will fit.
Cheers
Craig

Sith

4th July 2011, 11:16 PM

I am thinking going with Rovertym, they seem the goods. I gather the specs for the trailing arm have not changed in 20 odd years as the US they dont have the Extremes. Just want to be sure they will fit.
Cheers
Craig

Yeah a mate just had his arrive and he got the a-frame spacer , rear arms , front arms ... took 6 working days to be delivered which I must say is very quick for US standards .
I was looking over his and helped him press the bushes in and every weld is spot on :cool:

CraigE

4th July 2011, 11:19 PM

Yeah a mate just had his arrive and he got the a-frame spacer , rear arms , front arms ... took 6 working days to be delivered which I must say is very quick for US standards .
I was looking over his and helped him press the bushes in and every weld is spot on :cool:

Looks like I will order a set when back from holidays, about 3-4 weeks.
Thanks

LSD_AUTOMOTIVE

5th July 2011, 01:23 AM

Hi Craig, we would be happy to quote for you if you like. We did have Britpart arms in stock but sold our last pair in our Stocktake sale. We can look at other brands as well depending on your preferences/budget. Ie. Britpart/terra firma/QT etc. as well as new bushes to suit (ome or performance). Just send us an email (sales@lsdautomotive.com).
I believe we would be competitive against the US company you're looking at especially when you take into account the $200 core charge mentioned plus postage.

scott oz

5th July 2011, 07:09 AM

..... $200 core charge ............

Ok I'll ask the question what's a "core" I gather the charge is simply the deposit if not returned in the 30 Days whatever.

Benny_IIA

5th July 2011, 07:33 AM

i agree with Isuzurover - sleeve with 42mm tube is the way to go. I did that to mine as well as installing offset bushes on the chassis end from

Suspension Bushes (http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d603.html)

Cheers
Andrew

A bit of a waste of money, because you loose all the rubber from the bottom of the bush, in turn it will not give as must done travel as the std bush fitted with cranked arms.

ugu80

5th July 2011, 08:42 AM

Just FYI CraigE, for comparo, all up cost for mine (Adrenaline 4x4) was $360 delivered to my door.

CraigE

5th July 2011, 09:11 AM

Ok I'll ask the question what's a "core" I gather the charge is simply the deposit if not returned in the 30 Days whatever.

Basically you give them your old set of arms. From the add it appears that the core exchange applies to front arms. Getting this clarified as we speak.
Cheers
Craig

CraigE

5th July 2011, 09:17 AM

Yes indeed. I just used what I had lying around. CDS is something like 25% stronger than equivalent OD NB pipe, but a sleeved standard arm will be stronger again.

Here are mine - hard to judge the diameter from the pic, but compare the diameter to the pin diameter and the size of the bush.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/isuzurover/LR_PICS/County_parts084.jpg

The late model arms aren't much thicker than the pin diameter :eek:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/745.jpg

Cant even buy steel tube up here let alone CDS tube. What suppliers normally stock this stuff? May be an option if I just buy standard arms.
Cheers
Craig

CraigE

5th July 2011, 09:21 AM

Yeah a mate just had his arrive and he got the a-frame spacer , rear arms , front arms ... took 6 working days to be delivered which I must say is very quick for US standards .
I was looking over his and helped him press the bushes in and every weld is spot on :cool:

Did he have to send his old ones back to them?
Looking at the set complete with bushes. Only going to o the rears atm especially if the fronts have to be sent back.
Cheers
Craig

isuzurover

5th July 2011, 09:29 AM

Cant even buy steel tube up here let alone CDS tube. What suppliers normally stock this stuff? May be an option if I just buy standard arms.
Cheers
Craig

Pretty sure the tube I bought is just this:
OneSteel Products: Pipe - Tubeline® (AS1074) Medium & Heavy - Plain Ends (http://www.onesteel.com/products.asp?action=showProduct&productID=87&categoryName=Pipe%20&%20Tube)

250MPa is more than strong enough.

Specialty Metals in Malaga do CDS IRC.

EDIT - I am sure these guys can sell you some 250MPa tube/pipe:

Newman Steel Metaland

Lot 1658 Laver St, Newman, WA 6753
East Pilbara, Far North WA, Pilbara

p: (08) 9175 2316

Sith

5th July 2011, 02:47 PM

Did he have to send his old ones back to them?
Looking at the set complete with bushes. Only going to o the rears atm especially if the fronts have to be sent back.
Cheers
Craig

No mate he didnt send his old rears back , or the fronts . there is no core charge for the rears .. and the fronts did have some charge ... can't recall

roverrescue

5th July 2011, 08:03 PM

Craig,
As an idea. the cut length of sleeve will be within aussie post dimensions.
Get a Perth member to maybe post you a couple of lengths.

From memory I can buy a 6m stick of NB32Heavy for well under a hundred bucks. DN32Heavy might be more exe? Either way youll make a set of HD rear arms for 30 or so bucks, a few quick blasts with the metal glue gun and a lick of paint?

Steve

CraigE

5th July 2011, 11:03 PM

scott oz

31st October 2011, 08:36 AM

Just back from the USA and since I was there thought I’d take advantage of the exchange rate and ability to bring back parts on the plane thus saving on freight which can be a big killer.

A big thanks to the team at RTE fabrication formally Rovertym (http://www.rte-fab.com (http://www.rte-fab.com/))

Before leaving I ordered their rear trailing arms and arraigned to have them delivered to my “final” hotel for the return to OZ.

Bill at RTE couldn’t be more helpful. The arms arrived in time well packaged for the plane back to Australia.

If you are planning to do the same make sure you give Bill pliantly of lead time to ensure the parts are available.
:)

Dusty1111

4th November 2011, 01:09 AM

Just bought a set of rear trailing arms (rear lower link arms in LR speak) from a UK mob called Adrenaline 4x4. Haven't fitted them yet but they certainly look the part. Good quality 40mm tube steel with 6mm walls. Double cranked for a 50mm (2") lift. They are on Ebay. Took 9 days from order to delivery.

What were the postage prices like and who did you use? I shot them off an email inquiring about their hd steering arms, cranked trailing arms and radius arms because their prices are fairly good but the postage quote really put me off. Nearly £460 pounds with DHL for 45 kgs! Keen to hear if there are others who have imported gear from UK for less than this sort of cost.

clubagreenie

4th November 2011, 06:46 AM

FWIW CDS is only the production method used to extrude the tube. I can buy chinese CDS hydraulic tube at bargain basement prices and it measures the same, looks the same and weighs the same but at the end of the day it rusts faster, doesn't test to the same specs and doesn't bend neatly (tends to crease on the inside radius). As for "FIA" spec again that only compares to the manufacturing process, the material is completely different again (FIA spec different sizes/walls depending on the parent material but anyone who doesn't use cro-moly isn't competing).

ugu80

4th November 2011, 08:21 AM

What were the postage prices like and who did you use? I shot them off an email inquiring about their hd steering arms, cranked trailing arms and radius arms because their prices are fairly good but the postage quote really put me off. Nearly £460 pounds with DHL for 45 kgs! Keen to hear if there are others who have imported gear from UK for less than this sort of cost.

The postage was about the same as the purchase price (forget exactly) so all up was around double the ebay price, but still cheaper than a lot of others. I would also like to point out how surprised I was at the negative comments my post solicited by people who know nothing of this company or its product. I do not impulse buy. I research as much I can. I could not find one comment of a disatisfied customer or report of breakage anywhere in the world. What I found was that this is a small company run by a young enthusiast who produces a quality product.

T1ASLAV

7th November 2011, 07:48 AM

I fitted the Equipe 4x4 kinked units and have found them to be really good, the truck has a 2 inch lift and had to extend the rear brake lines to allow for the extra travel.
As for the kinked arms being weaker - I am no expert but they are gussetted with tig welded angle along their entire length and look much more solid than the stock items.

Hopenthat hasn't muddied the waters any.....

goingbush

7th November 2011, 11:23 AM

Just do this
"However I laminated my arms myself by sleeving them with tube (CDS I think)"

Or be cheap and use NB32 Heavy. It is 42mm OD with 4mm wall. Sleeves stock arms nicely. A laminated straight arm will be stronger than any single wall seamless tube or pipe.

Steve

Im getting the Landy ready for the 12month round Oz trip so the Trailing arms probably need upgrading.

So I'm going the DIY laminate path, My TA's are 28mm OD ,
and if my sums are right isnt 42mm OD 4mm wall going to be 34mm ID ??

So do the sleeves only fit loosely? I thought you'd want an tight or interferance fit.

Do you have to grind the factory welds off , that would not leave much holding the inner tube inplace, or does the sleeve fit over the welds.
cheers .. Don

pic below of Trailing Arm in my 04 TD5 Defender 110, Salisbury fitted but I assume original TA's
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/842.jpg

isuzurover

7th November 2011, 11:29 AM

Im getting the Landy ready for the 12month round Oz trip so the Trailing arms probably need upgrading.

So I'm going the DIY laminate path, My TA's are 28mm OD ,
and if my sums are right isnt 42mm OD 4mm wall going to be 34mm ID ??

So do the sleeves only fit loosely? I thought you'd want an tight or interferance fit.

Do you have to grind the factory welds off , that would not leave much holding the inner tube inplace, or does the sleeve fit over the welds.
cheers .. Don

pic below of Trailing Arm in my 04 TD5 Defender 110, Salisbury fitted but I assume original TA's
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/842.jpg

The original RA has the end inertia/friction/spun welded on.
Inertia Friction Welding Demonstration - Manufacturing Technology, Inc. - YouTube

So grinding back the lip does not weaken the weld.

def-90

7th November 2011, 09:14 PM

A bit of a waste of money, because you loose all the rubber from the bottom of the bush, in turn it will not give as must done travel as the std bush fitted with cranked arms.

i doubt this very much, i have offset bushes with standard straight arms with DIY small angle welded to the bottom, i have miles of travel, shock lengths and unrestrained coils limit u before offset bushes. i havent bent a arm yet with sticky 37's, stroked v8 and plenty of load pedal, and dare i say it going to places most of u wouldn't. i get hung up on the chassis mounts constantly and slide/bounce over rocks on my rear arms constantly - n.b. the rear of a 90 has not much weight in it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/763.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/764.jpg

LowRanger

9th November 2011, 09:50 PM

i doubt this very much, i have offset bushes with standard straight arms with DIY small angle welded to the bottom, i have miles of travel, shock lengths and unrestrained coils limit u before offset bushes. i havent bent a arm yet with sticky 37's, stroked v8 and plenty of load pedal, and dare i say it going to places most of u wouldn't. i get hung up on the chassis mounts constantly and slide/bounce over rocks on my rear arms constantly - n.b. the rear of a 90 has not much weight in it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/763.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/11/764.jpg

Interesting,
My rear trailing arm to chassis mount bushes are absolutely knackered after only 4 trips,and they were genuine.Have been thinking about putting Super Pro bushes.
But interested if you used the LRA offset bushes Sam?
I run double wall cranked rear arms on my 110,and it certainly gets a workout,but would expect a bit more than 4 trips out of rear bushes.

Wayne

def-90

10th November 2011, 08:50 PM

hey there wayne, no mate mine are syd king bushes - pretty sure they are no longer made, so not much help sorry mate.

LowRanger

11th November 2011, 08:59 AM

hey there wayne, no mate mine are syd king bushes - pretty sure they are no longer made, so not much help sorry mate.

No probs Sam,I will just give the Super Pro bushes a go.They can't be any worse than the ones I have now

Wayne

Sent by snail mail using a pencil

Lotz-A-Landies

11th November 2011, 09:13 AM

Interesting,
My rear trailing arm to chassis mount bushes are absolutely knackered after only 4 trips,and they were genuine.Have been thinking about putting Super Pro bushes.
But interested if you used the LRA offset bushes Sam?
I run double wall cranked rear arms on my 110,and it certainly gets a workout,but would expect a bit more than 4 trips out of rear bushes.

WayneWayne

No idea what brand they are, but when I started picking up the bits of Ikea, also came a box of bushes with two pairs of the same type of poly bushes and a pair of cranked poly bushes. A single pair is of no use in a 6X6 so you are welcome to them if you want to pick them up at either Arncliffe or Randwick.

The poly is red coloured.

Diana

LowRanger

11th November 2011, 10:04 AM

Wayne

No idea what brand they are, but when I started picking up the bits of Ikea, also came a box of bushes with two pairs of the same type of poly bushes and a pair of cranked poly bushes. A single pair is of no use in a 6X6 so you are welcome to them if you want to pick them up at either Arncliffe or Randwick.

The poly is red coloured.

Diana

Diana

Thanks for the offer,but after doing lots of reading,I believe that Super Pro are the only poly bush that will do what I require.I will try them at the chassis end at least

Wayne

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isuzurover

11th November 2011, 10:59 AM

...I believe that Super Pro are the only poly bush that will do what I require....

I agree. There is no comparison between super pro and all the other poly bushes IME.

LowRanger

11th November 2011, 11:58 AM

I agree. There is no comparison between super pro and all the other poly bushes IME.

Hopefully they last longer than the genuine bushes,without limiting suspension travel

Wayne

Sent by snail mail using a pencil

clubagreenie

12th November 2011, 09:28 AM

Wayne, go and see Wholesale Suspension at Lidco St Arndell Park. They have them in stock (well said so the other day when I shopped for Marks).

rick130

12th November 2011, 09:11 PM

Hopefully they last longer than the genuine bushes,without limiting suspension travel

Wayne

Sent by snail mail using a pencil

Over eight, maybe nine years and over 180,000km with Super Pro at the chassis end of the lower trailing arms and still work fine.

Chassis end of the A frame went in during '04, no slop AFAIK, unlike the tubes and bolts flogging out on the OE ones in a bit over 100,000km.

Very little real off road these days, much rough dirt/gravel and always heavily loaded, the 130 tares @ 3000kg these days, was 2660kg five years ago but carry more work gear now.

Dampers are a touch over 10" travel, so not huge travel, arms aren't bent to correct static angle and the dampers limit flex, not the bushes.

LowRanger

13th November 2011, 07:28 AM

Wayne, go and see Wholesale Suspension at Lidco St Arndell Park. They have them in stock (well said so the other day when I shopped for Marks).

I called Wholesale suspension,it is cheaper to buy from SuperCheap

Wayne

Sent by snail mail using a pencil

LowRanger

13th November 2011, 07:35 AM

Over eight, maybe nine years and over 180,000km with Super Pro at the chassis end of the lower trailing arms and still work fine.

Chassis end of the A frame went in during '04, no slop AFAIK, unlike the tubes and bolts flogging out on the OE ones in a bit over 100,000km.

Very little real off road these days, much rough dirt/gravel and always heavily loaded, the 130 tares @ 3000kg these days, was 2660kg five years ago but carry more work gear now.

Dampers are a touch over 10" travel, so not huge travel, arms aren't bent to correct static angle and the dampers limit flex, not the bushes.

Rick
I have quite a lot of rear suspension travel,and quite a lot of unsprung weight running steel rims and 35's and the vehicle uses all its travel as it is only used off road.Hopefully I can more than 4 weekends use out of them

Wayne

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uninformed

13th November 2011, 10:29 AM

If your having this much trouble and chewing through bushes would it not be easier to make up a set of bent arms....

LowRanger

13th November 2011, 02:06 PM

If your having this much trouble and chewing through bushes would it not be easier to make up a set of bent arms....

I already have double wall bent arms fitted,it just does all its miles with hard off road use.

Wayne

clubagreenie

13th November 2011, 09:01 PM

Thats surprising Wayne as repco, s/cheap etc didn't want to know as soon as I mentioned Land Rover. Said they wouldn't be in stock, have to wait etc etc. Walked in and out in 5 incl being offered trade on anything else rqd due to the stuff around and all.

All in all, seem a good bunch of guys. Willing to work on a custom set of shocks for the disco, with body/rod and valving.

rick130

13th November 2011, 10:11 PM

Bursons are (or used to be) agents for Fulcrum/Super Pro too and don't have a problem ordering in bits.

goingbush

22nd November 2011, 12:13 PM

I was going to laminate mine but found straight 38mm OD, 6mm wall HD arms for 80 GBP (pair) instead.

Ordered some monster Trailing Arms from Foundry 4x4 in UK , they weigh a ton & was only 70GBP via fedex
Foundry 4x4 Limited items - Get great deals on Land Rover Defender items on eBay Stores! (http://stores.ebay.com.au/Foundry-4x4-Limited?_trksid=p4340.l2563)