D3 TDV6 Service

[dangermousehouse]

I mean to give my D3 TDV6 a birthday and change all the oils.

I know that some of this may have been covered before, but it would be favourite if I could collect all the following data 'in a oner' to make it easy for me (and potentially others).

So, what oil is used (and LR recommended) in the following

Engine
Front Diff
Gearbox (auto)
Transfer box
Rear Diff (not eDiff)

Also, when I change the oil in the gearbox is it normal to renew the filter? Probably is, but just checking as mine has the 'upgraded' metal pan and I'm not quite sure on the filter arrangement. (If the filter is changed out, where can a replacement be purchased?)

Thanks in advance

[Neil P]

You going to Pacific or BOR for this lot ?

[dangermousehouse]

Doing it myself.:)

Just need the oil info' though...........

Can anyone answer the oil type queries?

[sniegy]

I mean to give my D3 TDV6 a birthday and change all the oils.

I know that some of this may have been covered before, but it would be favourite if I could collect all the following data 'in a oner' to make it easy for me (and potentially others).

So, what oil is used (and LR recommended) in the following

Engine
Front Diff
Gearbox (auto)
Transfer box
Rear Diff (not eDiff)

Also, when I change the oil in the gearbox is it normal to renew the filter? Probably is, but just checking as mine has the 'upgraded' metal pan and I'm not quite sure on the filter arrangement. (If the filter is changed out, where can a
replacement be purchased?)

Thanks in advance
Engine. 5W/30-WSS-M2C913-B (only) (Fully synthetic, Castrol Professional range)
Front Diff. Castrol SAF-XO
Gearbox. Shell ATF M-1375.4
Transfer Box. Shell TF0753
Rear Diff. Castrol SAF-XO / Rear eDiff. Castrol BOT 720

Cheers

[dangermousehouse]

Hi Sniegy

Many thanks for this, much appreciated.

Racked up nearly 1/4 of a million kays now and still goes like new!!

Regarding the 'improved' auto sump and filter, is the filter available from LR?

Cheers

PS - Attached is a pic of the D3 after driving the dirt road from Winton to Jundah. Twas a little wetter than anticipated!
Other pic is the result of me 'pushing on' on a bit too quickly when the road dried out

[sniegy]

Hi Dangermouse,
Not sure what other dealers stock, some may not even know about the upgrade metal pan kit, which is "aftermarket" so to speak.
We actually buy our kits from A & B automatic transmissions in Dandenong, this also includes the oil for the transmission.

Home (http://www.abautomatics.com.au/)

These guys do all the LR refurbishment on the transmissions.
Bill the owner is a landy nut also.
Grant is the best person to speak too, knows his stuff.
Cheers

[400HPONGAS]

Sniegy , that auto oil Shell M-1375.4 , is actually ZFLifeguard6 isnt it ?

[101RRS]

Doing it myself.:)

Just need the oil info' though...........



How do you intend to measure when the gearbox oil is at 35 degrees c when you do the oil change? Also I guess heat the oil going in to 35 degrees so that the correct amount goes in?

I am interested in how this is done away from the dealers.

Garry

[Neil P]

....I guess heat the oil going in to 35 degrees so that the correct amount goes in?

I am interested in how this is done away from the dealers.

Garry What's the SG at 35c vs 25c ?

[101RRS]

What's the SG at 35c vs 25c ?

I have no idea - the service specs as I understand them require the oil to be at 35 degrees. Was discussed in another thread that I cannot put my hand on at the moment. I also understand that dealers have the appropriate test equipment that reads the temp straight from the sensors - they drive it until the temp is reached and either top the oil up or change as required.

I have no first hand experience and curious if it a major issue or no as I would like to do a simple drain and refill at my next service and do a mega flush at 96,000km.

If someone knows the "reality" if the above is incorrect then please come in and comment.

PS - Draining the oil is no issue but checking the level is when new fluid is added would seem to be - from the workshop manual.

CAUTION: The gearbox fluid level must only be checked when the temperature of the fluid is between 30 degrees and50 degrees. The fluid level obtained will be incorrect if thereading is outside this temperature range.

So I guess if you heat the oil to 50 degrees before you fill , the temp of the oil in the box should still be within the temp range by the time you get up to the filler hole.

Cheers

Garry

[dangermousehouse]

Not quite sure garrycol, but could be a simple case of measuring how much came out and replacing the measured amount with the new oil.

After that, run the engine until gearbox is up to temp (measuring with a hand held laser temp gun) and then adding (or draining) as required.

I'll give the gearbox outfit that Sniegy mentioned a ring, though.

I'll probably do this next time I'm home (in about 5 weeks) and will hopefully put a post up of the 'how to' etc.

I've read somewhere that the diff oil should be a measured quantity rather than filling up until it comes out of the fill hole. I'll need to look into this a bit more, but it seems a bit overly complicated.

[101RRS]

Also be aware (if you are not already) that removing the drain plug and draining the oil and then filling back up only changes about 40% of the oil in the box/TC. You will get about about 3.5 - 4 litres out but the entire system actually holds about 9-9.5litres.

If you don't have them - see below

[dangermousehouse]

Hi Garrycol.

Thanks a million for the attachments. I've just been surfing on our extremely slow broadband connection (you're the best, Telstra :mad:) and was about to give up.

I would imagine the procedure for the 'new type' transmission wouldn't require lifting the job up to get at the drain plug, although it's interesting that the original can be serviced (of sorts) after all.

[101RRS]

As far as the gearbox is concerned, clearly the 240,000km service interval is a crock.

My car has done 51,000km and the box has not been touched - at the 60,000km service I will drop the sump plug and replace the 3 or 4 litres (hence my interest in what you are intending) - will do the same at 84,000km and at 96,000km will do the full metal sump change, filter change, full fluid change etc.

After that I will do the 3-4litre change every 24,000km and the full flush and filter change 96,000km later.

Then hopefully my box and TC will have a happy and productive like into old age.

I need to do similar things for the diffs etc - and the air filter which is supposed to last 110,000km which I find unlikely.

Fourx4 in Newcastle sell full filter kits for about $165 - just make sure you tell them the model year as the post 06 TDV6s have a different fuel filter to the earlier models.

Garry

[RR P38]

60,000km or more without a service on a Transmission seems an awful lot.
To me it sounds like saying 25,000km without an engine oil change is ok!

What is the fluid looking like when it comes out of these transmissions after being in there for 60k or more?
Open up your Trans filter when you change it and take a look in it.
Do these new Transmissions run a magnetic sump plug or run a magnet in the pan?

[dangermousehouse]

Hey rrp38, how's it going?

I believe there are two magnets, but I'll found out next leave.

I have a new transmission (with the new type sump) which had an oil change about 40K klms ago.

With all this talk of diffs and tranny failures I'll probably just service everything yearly. A bit over the top, but I used to do this on both of my rangies.

Prevention better than cure etc (and a lot cheaper by all accounts)

[101RRS]

60,000km or more without a service on a Transmission seems an awful lot.


But the Land Rover service interval on these is 240,000km:o.

[Rockylizard]

Gday...

For what it is worth - I had the D3 TDV6 trans fluid changed/flushed and a steel pan fitted at 82,000km for no other reason than I tow full-time and wanted reassurance. There was no adverse indications with the auto at all.
The fluid at 82,000km was like new, no discolouration and no 'wrong' smells. They (Southern Cross dealer at Toowoomba) said the box was in good nick.
Have now done 98,000km and still as smooth as a baby's bottom (sure hope that bloke Murphy doesn't read this!)
Cheers
John