D4 2" square trailer receiver hitch..

[Robocop]

I'm very happy to now be driving a D4. I had ordered this with a Hayman Reece tow bar if one was made so my bike rack could fit on the back. I was advised that they all came with a tow bar and I left it at that.

I saw what you all have probably seen and from I read must be the agricultural type part that slotted up under the rear bar...

To my surprise after fitting the square hitch there was no anti rattle bolt. All of my previous vehicles were fitted with a square receiver (Hayman Reece) hitch have had one of these.

Are people using one of the aftermarket anti-rattle brackets or is there another solution?

[Graeme]

I've put some runs of low-penetration weld then ground them flat to make it a tighter fit, although it still rattles a little.

[sniegy]

A couple of packing plates seems to work fine.

[Robocop]

Ive seen a device I only just located, doesn't look overly complicated from 'StowAway' on Amazon. I'm yet to visit a caravan/trailer joint tomorrow, if its legal in Aus then i'm pretty sure it would be there.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/181.jpg

[Graeme]

Hmm, I could make one of those, albeit with the u-bolt inverted and with a plate for the nuts, and a shorter U-bolt too.

[Mick_Marsh]

It's a standard cable ladder fitting. We've got a sample in the office somewhere. I think I might nick it.
EzyStrut - E2785 Beam Clamp (http://www.ezystrut.com.au/products/beam-clamps/e2785/e2785h)

[Robocop]

Would you look at that! thanks Mick. Is that the kind of think i'd find in a Bunnings type hardware store or a little more building specific? I'm near Griffith NSW.

[Markbd4d]

I use a 100mmx75mm Jockey wheel u bolt (from autobarn etc.) with a flat plate of steel drilled to fit. The u bolt loops over the receiver and the flat plate pulls up any slop when you do up. You can orient it to take the play out in any direction - I use it to pull the hitch to the left or right - if you have something light on probably using it to tighten down might be better. I use it for a hitch mount motorcycle carrier which is pretty heavy and this takes out all movement and it rides well.
Hopefully this pic works and shows enough to give idea.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/118.jpg

[TDV6]

I just use DUCT tape and replace it every now and then.

Ryall

[Redback]

What rattle:eek::confused:

Never had a rattle from my hitch.

Baz.

[IvanR]

The hitch is cast steel and it would be possible to drill a hole and then weld a nut on. Then use either a 8mm or 10mm 'unbracko' bolt to tighten things up.
This bolt needs an allen key to do it up so the chance of someone taking a fancy to your tow hitch is reduced.

ivanR

[mowog]

I was having some feedback issues with the van attached. So the father in-law and I had a bit of a play packing some shims into the receiver this solved the loose fit problem and the thump from the van.

But just packing with shims seemed like a bit of a short cut. In my father in-laws case if it worth doing its worth over doing.

Given that any hitch fitted will pivot on the center locking pin we went for 3 bolts on the under side of the receiver. There is enough thickness to drill and tap the holes for the bolts.

[Robocop]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I have just returned from Griffith where I visited a Caravan/Trailer specialist to get their view. I left the receiver hitch & tow hitch with them to play around with. Basically they weren't prepared to drill into the receiver hitch due to its cast construction. I understand this, but would like to do this all the same. They put some welds on the receiver and filed until there was a tight fit. Obviously this doesn't solve the overall issue.

I also purchased a u-bolt large enough and a fish plate from a trailer to have a fiddle with.

[mowog]

If you look at the receiver it has already been drilled and machined. It isn't fragile cast iron.

[Mick_Marsh]

I bought a few of these for another application.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=39125&stc=1&d=1316163455

They cost me a little over $10 each. I bought a few spare.

[Graeme]

After stopping the gooseneck from rattling in its receiver, I now find that the tow attachment isn't quite tight in its socket. It doesn't look as though its going to fall out but its certainly going to wear the contact surfaces and get worse the more its used. Do others have this loosness? I'm inclined to add a brace between the top of the new anti-rattle bracket and the recovery hole but that's going to make removal even more work. I use the trailer regularly and it was quick and easy to remove the pin.

[Stuart02]

Does anyone know if the reverse sensors are meant to know if something's on the hitch? It's no fun reversing with a constant beep when the bike rack's on!

[Disco4SE]

Does anyone know if the reverse sensors are meant to know if something's on the hitch? It's no fun reversing with a constant beep when the bike rack's on!
This happens to me as well with the bike rack. It is normal.
Cheers, Craig

[roamer]

? It's no fun reversing with a constant beep when the bike rack's on!

You can just turn them off when the bike rack is on

[CaverD3]

No switch on some models. It only knows if the elecrrics are plugged in.

[outasight]

Must say that although mine is somewhat loose, I don't hear it rattling either :eek:

[Stuart02]

No switch on some models. It only knows if the elecrrics are plugged in.

Hmmm... Some have a switch? I have to read the manual again...

My rack has a threaded nut inside the neck which the pin screws in to, which at least gets rid of the lateral play. I'm sure something could be rigged up.

[jonesy63]

Hmmm... Some have a switch? I have to read the manual again...
Yes - my 07MY D3 had the switch. When it stopped working and was replaced under warranty, the stealer decided to put a switch pack in which didn't have that particular switch. I complained and they ordered the right one in.

[Stuart02]

Yes - my 07MY D3 had the switch. When it stopped working and was replaced under warranty, the stealer decided to put a switch pack in which didn't have that particular switch. I complained and they ordered the right one in.

But now you have a D4, does it have the switch too? If not I wonder if there's a way of tricking the electrics with a plug in socket or something...