A well used 80''called Klonk

[1950landy]

Now to get the pistons in without braking any rings . If I remember correct it is easier to leave crank out & put them in through the bottom . I am trying to remember back 30 years since I bid my engine. :unsure:[bighmmm] Nothing like the feeling of starting the engine for the 1st time after a rebuild. [biggrin]:banana::banana::banana:
GOOD WORK Wayne

[JDNSW]

It is a long time (fifty years+) since I have done one of these, but I remember having to put the rod in from the bottom, and the piston in from the top, and install the gudgeon pin in situ, using the exhaust port. Mind you, that was with the engine in, so no option to remove the crank, but if the crank is already out I expect it would certainly be easier.

But I do not remember any issues with the rings, putting them in from the top.

[1950landy]

Because the top of the block slopes it is difficult to get the ring compressor down far enough to hold the rings . When the bore is STD the top of the bore has a taper to feed the rings in but once O/S there is no taper.[bighmmm] When fitting the rod through the bottom you have to have the rod at 90 deg so it fits up into the slots in the bottom of the bore then fit the piston & pin then turn the assembly back 90 deg & make sure the piston is the correct way around, very fiddle job . Then it is a matter to get the ring gaps at 180 deg to one another with the top ring grove opposite the exhaust valve.

[klonk]

I've been putting off fitting the Pistons in the bores because I'm not sure of the best way to go about it either.
The block is now on the engine stand and its a lot better to work on. Have been reading the workshop manual tonight, rods go in from the bottom with the Conrod bolts removed, they then go into the slots in the bottom of the bores as John and Wayne said. Then the Pistons from the top and because the top of the block is sloped the rings can be fed in without a ring compressor, easy! :no2::no2:

Also found out I may have put the cam bearings in in the wrong order so will have to pull it out to check them, ahh well better to to it now than latter.

Cheers Steve

[JDNSW]

........ Have been reading the workshop manual tonight, .......
Cheers Steve

Not wanting to be critical or anything, but wouldn't it have been an idea to read the manual before even starting the job?

[klonk]

Not wanting to be critical or anything, but wouldn't it have been an idea to read the manual before even starting the job?

Professional mechanics with 40 years experience only use workshop manuals for advise on technical adjustments and tensions, or if you really cant work it out after 2 days.

Seriously though I have been using the parts book to identify parts and their position. The cam and bearings were second hand but are in really good condition, so the bearings were kept in there original position when I fitted them. I did check the parts book and it shows two different part numbers for the bearings, the front one is one number and the other 3 as another. It doesnt identify the rear one as a seperate number. Strange as the workshop book says the rear bearing has 4 longitudinal holes drilled around the bearing inline with the cam shaft and the other two dont. Dont know why they are there. The rear bearing is in a blind hole but it does have an oil return hole to the crankcase so they arent there as oil drains.
Anyway I checked mine and 2 of the 3 had the 4 holes but the rear one didnt. Not wanting to change positions of the bearings I removed the rear one and drilled the 4 holes and refitted it.

Tonight I fitted the pistons in the bores. That could have ended badly if I hadnt tested the pistons in the bores first. The numbered order that the engine shop had written on them was wrong. Found no 2 piston was tight in its bore and number 3 piston was loose. An engine machinist measures each piston and makes the bore to suit each piston, seems he mixed these two up. It would have seized for sure.
I fitted the pistons into the bore from the bottom, much easier than the top. Assembled on the bench and pushed in by hand. easy with the crank out.
Found this lovely big plastic bag at work, unused of course. Good to keep the dust out. Its upside down so you can read the writing.

Cheers Steve

[1950landy]

Now to get the valve timing correct . I am sure rover could have done a better job with it. Would have been a lot easier if they put a couple of marks on the timing gears like most other car manufactures .:rolleyes: When I was rebuilding my Rover P3 engine ( Because it was a stop gap vehicle Rover never produced a workshop manual for the P3) I was using 4 different books for info & none of then had the same settings , would have had 10 attempts at getting it correct putting it all together & trying to start the motor then pulling it down again. Grrrrrrrrrr.:thumbsdown:

[67hardtop]

Pistons to TDC no.1 and 4. Camshaft with valves on the rock no.4, start from there. On the rock means one valve closing the other valve starting to open. No4 on the rock means no.1 will be at the top of the compression stroke.

[klonk]

Sorry I havnt been here for awhile. Progress has been made but Its been hard work.

After fitting the pistons the valves were fitted and tappets set. This is where the trouble started, 2 of the the lock nuts on the tappets run out of thread but 2 were ok. Found that 2 of the valves were from a 1600 engine and the other were from a 2 ltr. There is 3mm difference in stem length between the two valves. So a new set was ordered and they took ages to get here. Ruined the Anzac Day plans and won't make it to Perth for the 70th birthday run.
So to fill in time I fitted the block into the car. There was a big sigh of relief as I pushed the engine side ways half a bolt hole and dropped the bolt in. This was because when repairing the chassis I had to replace the gearbox crossmember and during the repairs the marks I had made disappeared. So after some calculations and an educated guess the new one was welded in. Really glad I didn't have to revisit that.

So to fill in time I sat the cyl head on and finished working out and fitting the rest of the parts.
This included replacing the temp gauge capillary line and making up an oil line adapter for the dual gauge. The valves turned up and were duly fitted and adjusted with enough thread to lock them up. Then every thing was assembled properly.
So last weekend the radiator was sat loosely in place held by the radiator hoses. The sump was filled with Penrites finest running in oil and the only thing left to do was to turn the key and push the button and let there be noise.
Well there was some noise, some smoke but no action, so I advanced the dissy abit more and tried again, this time it caught and run but was popping back through the carbi on acceleration
but would maintain revs. I adjusted the oil pressure and let it warm up but it was not happy, even threw a couple of fire balls from the carbi.

This week I spent rechecking the cam timing and ignition system. Only thing I found was that I was a tooth retarded on the dissy drive. I borrowed a running dissy to try but that made no difference either. I was getting frustrated.
Today I decided to move the dissy to its proper place, so removed the drive tube and advanced it one tooth and refitted it. This time it started and run smooth as, no coughing and no fireballs , just a healthy bark from the tail pipe. No idea what I did, it shouldn't have changed anything.
So now to sort out a few problems. The generator isn't charging, the fuel line has an air leak on top of the fuel bowl and the thermostat housing has a pin hole on the side of it that needs welding up then the front guards will be fitted. That's the plan for now.

Cheers Steve

[JDNSW]

Generator may just need 'flashing' to restore remnant magnetism. Or it may be magnetised in the wrong direction (same remedy). Are you sticking to the original positive earth? Or changing to negative earth? What polarity was the generator running last time it ran? Or don't you know?

John

[Pickles2]

Beautiful work.
Well done, Pickles.

[klonk]

I have this week off work, it was to prep klonk to take up to Perth for the 70th meet but Im not having a good run so it wont happen.
So I had to do an air con job this morning and was champing at the bit to take it for a run around the block. However on saturday klonk was idling away and suddenly stopped, went for a restart it cranked for abit then started so backed it in the shed and it stopped again, so put the door down for night. Today it started first push, drove out of the shed to let it warm up and it quit again and wouldnt start, then it did,then it wouldnt. So out with the test gear and found that I had power in all the right places including spark from the coil lead. Plenty of fuel but still no action. Had a brain wave to fit a neon timing light to no1 plug. This time it started, the light was flashing.Then it all stopped. I lifted the dissy cap and flicked the points. I noticed a small amount of smoke from the condenser ahh ! I have one on order but it wasnt in. lucky I had another a used one so in it went and presto it started. It warmed up without stopping, so down the driveway we went literally. Our driveway has a 3.5 mtr drop from the shed pad to the street and the street isnt much better. I kind of know how a kimakazi pilot felt. it was good to feel the brakes holding well.
The first lap around the block went well but seemed a bit slow, oops maybe I should push the red lever forward. The next lap was much better, 25mph 3rd gear before the corner, down to second and up the hill to make the rings bite in, was quite suprised how well it pulled so went for a third lap with my son as passenger, still pulled well up the hill with power to spare. So into the shed for the night.
Now I can start to sort out the issues.


John,
I have made it neg earth not sure what polarity it was. I didnt have the battery connected when I tested it first up. As I hot wired the ignition. Will check it out tomorrow now it is running properly.

Cheers Steve

[JDNSW]

Running the engine for prolonged periods with the generator not operating (for whatever reason) is likely to demagnetise it, resulting in it needing 'flashing'. This is done by simply momentarily connecting the output terminal of the generator to the battery, preferably while the engine is running. This can be done with a jumper lead or by taking the cover off the voltage regulator and manually closing the cutout contacts. Just make sure it is correctly wired first.

[1950landy]

I have this week off work, it was to prep klonk to take up to Perth for the 70th meet but Im not having a good run so it wont happen.
So I had to do an air con job this morning and was champing at the bit to take it for a run around the block. However on saturday klonk was idling away and suddenly stopped, went for a restart it cranked for abit then started so backed it in the shed and it stopped again, so put the door down for night. Today it started first push, drove out of the shed to let it warm up and it quit again and wouldnt start, then it did,then it wouldnt. So out with the test gear and found that I had power in all the right places including spark from the coil lead. Plenty of fuel but still no action. Had a brain wave to fit a neon timing light to no1 plug. This time it started, the light was flashing.Then it all stopped. I lifted the dissy cap and flicked the points. I noticed a small amount of smoke from the condenser ahh ! I have one on order but it wasnt in. lucky I had another a used one so in it went and presto it started. It warmed up without stopping, so down the driveway we went literally. Our driveway has a 3.5 mtr drop from the shed pad to the street and the street isnt much better. I kind of know how a kimakazi pilot felt. it was good to feel the brakes holding well.
The first lap around the block went well but seemed a bit slow, oops maybe I should push the red lever forward. The next lap was much better, 25mph 3rd gear before the corner, down to second and up the hill to make the rings bite in, was quite suprised how well it pulled so went for a third lap with my son as passenger, still pulled well up the hill with power to spare. So into the shed for the night.
Now I can start to sort out the issues.


John,
I have made it neg earth not sure what polarity it was. I didnt have the battery connected when I tested it first up. As I hot wired the ignition. Will check it out tomorrow now it is running properly.

Cheers Steve


When I 1st started reading this I though Condenser, then I read a bit further & I was correct. :thumbsup: A couple of years ago I sold a fully rebuilt Mini motor to a guy , the motor was running when I sold it to him but had never been run on the road. After he put it in his mini he rang me telling me it was doing the same as your LR . I told him it would provably be the condenser . After he had taken the car to about 4 mechanics with out success I made the 3hr trip to his place had a quick check of everything then put a second hand condenser in & took it for a 20k drive & all OK . The that I took out was new when I rebuilt the distributor .
The condenser is just a small but forgotten part of the ignition system & is very difficult to test . Back when i worked as a BMC mechanic we had a coil & condenser you could test condensers on it & it would show OK but at the end of the day they were faulty. You can usually tell by looking at the points if they look burnt than it is time to replace the Condenser.[bigsad]

[Don 130]

Beautiful work, well done.
Don.

[klonk]

Today I managed to sort out the generator. Following Johns suggestion I gave it a flash and a couple more for good luck but no joy. I found this lucas workshop manual on the internet.


http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/pdf/Lucas_Generator_and_Control_Box_Tests.pdf


Doing the first test gave me negative 2 volts, good but bad should have been positive 2. So tried the 2nd test but that didnt make sense either. The third test was to test field winding current draw, should have 2 amps, instead I had 6.
Now I had the generator apart earlier and had rewound the insulation on the field coils and fitted new bearings etc. So I pulled it apart again and found a short in the join between the two coils rubbing on the casing. About then I remembered Id split the coils to redo the insulation and undone the wires off the special post that goes through the casing. So maybe Id put them back the wrong way round,reversing the current flow through the field coils. So I swapped them around and put the generator back together and did a motor test by joining the D and F terminals together and putting a positive wire on the D terminal and an earth wire onto the case. The pulley should turn in the direction as marked on the case, and it did.
So now its back on the engine but Ive removed the fuel line from the tank for repair, so I cant test it till tomorrow. Looks like a warranty claim[bigsad]

Cheers Steve

[klonk]

After the end of my week off work, the front guards are fitted and bolted,bumper and front badge fitted. So hes complete but not quite finished.
The final to do list is, sort charging system, connect headlights and horn, fit door cappings and make and fit front guard braces at back of wheel arch. So not too much to do.
I have been offered the use of a set of trade plates. These number plates are used in the auto industry to move unregistered vehicles to get repairs done by other workshops and to road test etc. So I can legally road test my restoration before I take it for a roadworthy. So Sunday is looking good for a run.
The charging system is causing me grief, it is putting out 13 volts and 2 amps with my multimeter inline. The ignition system draws 3 amps without anything else.
The generator seems to be performing well as it puts out 25 volts plus when the D and F terminal are joined together and its run . I have found a lucas workshop manual on the internet and set up the regulator, but it didnt help. So will think about it for awhile.

Cheers Steve

[1950landy]

WoW , looking good. :TakeABow: Those last few little jobs seam to go for ever & you keep finding things to add to the list , bit like yours wife's list of things that need doing around the house before LR time. Just a little tip make sure the wheel nuts are tight before venturing on to the road, back 30 years ago when I was taking Landy for her RWC I lost the L/H front wheel on the way going through a round about . [bighmmm]
Wayne

[1950landy]

Hi Steve,
There is a good article in this months (May) Practtcal Classics mag. On how to service voltage regulators. May be of some help, worth a look.
Wayne

[JDNSW]

Your generator figures seem to be a bit strange - I would check engine/chassis and voltage regulator /chassis earthing. Is the battery earthed to the chassis or the engine?

Also check regulator wiring, although I expect you have already done that!

[klonk]

Friday I picked up the trade plates cable tied them on ready for the weekend. Saturday I finished a couple of jobs. Riveted the door cappings, found and fitted the air cleaner to carbi hose , made sure the battery was charged as the charging system didn't get sorted. So after lunch I headed out. I needed fuel but the fuel station is on a busy main rd so wasn't too keen to head there first up. So I did a few laps around the local streets. I had to richen up the idle mixture abit as it was coughing and spluttering under load, what a difference that made! Off like a rocket. So into the main traffic we went, was quite surprised how easy it kept up with the rest of the traffic. Filled up with fuel and off to a mates place to show it off. Loves to pull up hills and had to hold back as I didn't want to go over 40mph just yet. Managed to clock up 25 miles and headed home but 3 or 4 miles from home it started to miss again and slowly got worse until I was running on choke to get it home.
Gave it a check over in the shed, crawled underneath and found a leaking pinion seal on the front diff but that was all, it all looked good. It was running fine after it cooled off so put it away for the night.
Today I promised to take the bosses dad for a ride, a Land Rover man from way back ,so headed off mid morning. I got half way there and the problem started again, coughing and spluttering, managed to limp to the bosses place and removed the jets from the carb to check them. Found an insect leg in the main jet. The drive went well and his dad was happy as.
But again on the way home it played up again but got home. I parked it in the driveway and went in for lunch.
After lunch I went to start it and it wouldn't fire, then to add insult the starter died, a direct short. So he got towed indignantly up the drive to the shed by the patrol and pushed inside. Tonight I removed the starter and dismantled it to find the brush wires shorting on the case, so am now wrapping them as the insulation had fallen off, ah well.
Looking forward to driving it again.

Cheers Steve

[1950landy]

Know were you are coming from for a while I had a problem with my MGBGT were it would just start flooding , & I would pull the top off the float chamber & take the needle out of the needle & seat blow it through & it would be OK for a couple of weeks then play up again , eventually I pulled the carbys off & striped them down to find a small beetle in the float chamber top that was gradually braking down & bits were getting on to the seat causing it to flood . I can only guess it got in when I 1st overhauled the carbys. The other problem I have with the fuel system on Landy is because the tank is under the seat when I wash her water must get into the tank . I would be driving along & she would stop , what I found was the water would get to the line filter & block the filter . I would just remove the filter & blow it back wards refit the filter & away I would go until the next time the tank started to get low. I have now fitted a new seal on the tank cap & have not had the problem since.

[klonk]

Tonight I had the pleasure of refitting the starter motor, it tested ok on the floor, so in it went. I used cap screws to bolt it up, a ball ended allen key is easier then a socket. But it is still abit of a fiddle to get it in and yes it works fine.
Found a cause for the miss, one of the coil terminal nuts was half undone so had a loose wire, tightened it and it ran better but still has a flutter. I connected a neon timing light to number one spark plug and found it was not an even flash. So time for more new parts. Still havent looked at the charging system.
The photo is before the first run on Saturday.

Cheers Steve

[klonk]

Confession time.
During my testing of klonks ignition, I had a slight mishap. I checked the carbi for fuel delivery. The air pipe was removed from the carbi and with the engine running I could see plenty of fuel coming from the emulation tower, which was good, I turned it off. I then went to the dissy, removed the cap and flipped it over the rocker cover to inspect the points etc. I turned the key on and decided to put a wire under the carbon rotor button and check the spark to earth by opening the points to make the coil fire. Well on the third time firing the coil there was an almighty explosion. Shook the spiders off the roof but not quite enough to make my ears ring.
While gathering my thoughts I could here voices,"Are you alright Steve".It was the neighbours behind the shed. " Sorry that wasn't ment to happen". It was fine to laugh afterwards.
It seems that the bang was caused by a rouge spark from the back of the dissy cap to the carbi top, lighting up the vapour floating out . The air hose was immediately put back on the carbi to stop any more leakage.
One good spark in three, no wonder it wouldn't run properly. Tonight I fitted another new condenser and got a start, run smooth as. Third one lucky.
So please be carefull playing with your toys.

I got the ignition parts from bare-co for the early dvx4a distributor. They fit the little grey fergies. via a tractor dealership also on eBay. Part no's are contact set b3790, condenser b 3791, rotor b3789 and coil b5212 has original screw outlet.

Cheers Steve

[1950landy]

So easily done , when I was service manager for a Jaguar ,Rover , Triumph dealership one of the mechanics had to pull the motor out of a Triumph 2.5 TC & when he disconnected the the fuel line the fuel ran down over the hot lead light under the vehicle there was panic for a while until some body put the fire out with minimal damage to the vehicle.
I can also remember going out to a VW 1500 one tome that was 1/2 way up a hill when it stopped. while I was checking to see if there was fuel & spark all of a sudden there was fire . What had happened a plug had come out of the carby & there was fuel all over the top of the motor that ignited when I was testing the spark when I pulled my hand away I knocked the fuel line off & the fuel was gravity feeding down from the tank. The whole back of the car was burnt.:thumbsdown: The most embarrassing part of this story was because I didn't like working on VW's I had told the lady owner because of all the problems she was having with the vehicle to make sure it was well insured & it would catch fire like most VW's. :firedevil: I was luck she was with me when it happened other wise she may have thought I did it on purpose After she got it back after being repaired she only kept it a week & traded it in a Gemini, she said that the car was parked under the house she thought she could smell petrol all the time .

Hope there wasn't any damage except for your undies .[biggrin]

[Dinty]

My 86" had been running great until I drove it home from Dungog back in February, it drove up there like a charm and around the place with no fuss, but 10k's out of Dungog on the way home, no mob/ph to ring for help LOL etc it started to miss n run horribly, lost power, so I pulled off the road and left it idling, after about a minute, I could rev the engine, so off we go and about 6-8k's down the road it's back, same thing pull over let it idle then move off, I managed to turn a 1 hour 20 minute into 2 hours though, anyway I still haven't fixed it but I know it's the condenser, and yes you guessed it the Series 1 hasn't been out of the yard nor run since Feb, way too may other things had happened Land Rover wise, anyway Steve good to see you got on top of your small list of issues, and btw Klonk looks great cheers Dennis

[klonk]

This weekend I managed to get the charging system working. After reading another article on google about charging systems I went to the shed and put a jumper wire across the D and F terminals on the regulator but left the rest connected as they should be, this put the gene into full charge and bypassed the regulator. The engine loaded up as soon as I connected the jumper wire and the multimeter on the battery started to rise and a check of the ammeter on the dash saw it well up in the plus side. So that ment the generator was fine, it was a regulator problem.
The cutout side was set too low it took about three turns to get it right. Having it too low made it close when the engine started but then they seemed to bounce, I adjusted them to close at 12.5 volts. On checking the regulator points I could see a blue spark between the points so it was regulating. I put a piece of paper between the cutout points which isolates the battery from the generator, which makes the regulator think the battery is full and the regulator siows the power going to the field windings in the generator but holds the voltage at its adjusted setting, ment to be set at 16 volts. Mine was set at 13 so it was adjusted up and it all worked fine. Dash light was off, battery voltage rising and amp meter well up the positive side. Headlights on and still in the positive side just, at 1000rpm so all happy.
Now just the door seals to get and fit. At pinion seal leak, a couple of clamps and the proper 1600 air cleaner hose to organise, but I'll run the later air cleaner for now.

Cheers Steve

[cjc_td5]

Interesting re the regulator Steve. I never knew you could adjust them. I have never had any flat battery issues with my 86" but my ammeter has never moved much at all. I should read up on your tests to see if I can get it to move, to see if the gauge is stuffed or a charging issue?
Cheers Chris.

[1950landy]

Hi Steve,
Were did you get your side rear vision mirror from, I am sick of buying them & when they arrive they are plastic & you can not adjust them. I have not been able to find any in Brisbane or Australia either. The other problem I have with the plastic ones is if you bump then the back brakes out. I have found some 5" ones in the US but the freight is a killer.:firedevil:
Wayne

[klonk]

Hi Steve,
Were did you get your side rear vision mirror from, I am sick of buying them & when they arrive they are plastic & you can not adjust them. I have not been able to find any in Brisbane or Australia either. The other problem I have with the plastic ones is if you bump then the back brakes out. I have found some 5" ones in the US but the freight is a killer.:firedevil:
Wayne


Roverparts (SW Macintyre) but they are just the horrible plastic ones. Don't like them either.

Steve

[klonk]

[QUOTE=cjc_td5;2810397]Interesting re the regulator Steve. I never knew you could adjust them. I have never had any flat battery issues with my 86" but my ammeter has never moved much at all. I should read up on your tests to see if I can get it to move, to see if the gauge is stuffed or a charging issue?
Cheers Chris.


Hi Chris,
These attachments are ones I found usefull.

http://www.ahsdc.org/Files/Tech_Information/Tech_Information_Generator.pdf

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/pdf/Lucas_Generator_and_Control_Box_Tests.pdf

If you turn your headlights on without the engine running the ammeter should move into the discharge side, if it won't move, the needle maybe stuck.

Cheers Steve

[JDNSW]

Or the wiring is incorrect, and the current is not going through the meter. Anything is possible on a vehicle this age!

[klonk]

Ah forgot about the old burnt out and bypassed amp meter trick. Both wires on one terminal[thumbsupbig] Might have been guilty of that one in the past.

[1950landy]

Roverparts (SW Macintyre) but they are just the horrible plastic ones. Don't like them either.

Steve

Hi Steve after a couple of more hours searching I managed to find some in the US were the seller doesn't double the freight when I order two . Have two coming for $50 :thumbsup: They look like they will do the job have metal back with metal ball socket.

[klonk]

This Weekend I took Klonk for another run. Family arrived from over east and we had our local cars and coffee meet. Its a casual met for a couple hours on a sunday morning once a month. All sorts of cars turn up.
Managed to clock up 70miles over the weekend and didnt miss a beat, including a 28 mile return trip to a mates place, left the return trip abit late, got caught in the dark and rain with no door tops but made it home with everything working and reasonably dry.
Now its running better it was easier to check how other bits of it were performing. The gearbox and diffs are running well no noises or whines but I think the drive shafts need to be balanced as the interior rear view mirror vibrates badly above 40 mph. The suspension is working well. My step father has a steel rod in his back but was happy to ride around in it without being in too much more pain. The engine is now performing well. Im surprised how well it pulls, on the run to my mates place it has some good up hill pulls and is an 80km speed limit, I threw caution out the window and let it run to 50mph up hill, didnt have to try too hard, did it easy.
The clutch isnt the nicest, has abit of a shudder on an uphill take off, on the flat it is fine so hopefully it will improve with use.
98 miles on the clock now.

Cheers Steve

[JDNSW]

Most cars of that vintage tended to have a fair bit of vibration - but the issue with the mirror is more likely to be the mirror and windscreen shaking, probably more due to airflow than transmission vibration. Neither the windscreen nor the mirror mount are particularly rigid on the 80".

The clutch shudder on uphill starts is almost certainly due to the engine moving and affecting the throttle opening - this is the result of the rigid throttle linkage with a rubber mounted engine. Check that the engine (and gearbox) mounts are in good condition and nothing is loose. The effect can be largely avoided in driving by using the engine inertia - rev a little higher and ease off on the throttle as the clutch is engaged.

[1950landy]

IT IS AMAZING HOW MUCH ATTENTION AN OLD LAND ROVER CAN GET AT THESE THINGS . :banana: EVERY ONE HAS OWNED ONE , LERNT TO DRIVE IN ONE OR FATHER HAD ONE.
IT'S LOOKING VERY NICE CANT WAIT TO GET LANDY TO SAMFORD SHOW SATURDAY WEEK WITH THE SLOWS , TWO DAYS PUMPING WATER , SHE LOVES IT.:arms:

[klonk]

IT IS AMAZING HOW MUCH ATTENTION AN OLD LAND ROVER CAN GET

The next show I go to I'm not going to lift the bonnet. The first comment was " What's wrong with it". Smart ar$e!

Also had a couple of drivers come in for a close look. One sat on my left side for too long so I couldn't change lanes and missed the turn. The other was way too close behind me at 80kph I was starting to look for something to throw out the back. Both were cruiser drivers.

John

I think you are right on both comments.Thinking about it the vibrations aren't in the gear stick or the side mirrors. Also I did a crawl under inspection and noticed a fresh rub mark on the underside of the floor above the 4wd selectors.Looks like the tin cover over the selector shafts has been hitting the floor, it has 1/2" clearance standing. So need to shorten the tubes inside the mounts to tighten the rubbers.

Cheers Steve

[JDNSW]

IT IS AMAZING HOW MUCH ATTENTION AN OLD LAND ROVER CAN GET AT THESE THINGS . :banana: EVERY ONE HAS OWNED ONE , LERNT TO DRIVE IN ONE OR FATHER HAD ONE.


Yes, I noticed this when I bought a pair of tyres for the County last week - even though I don't regard it as an "OLD" Landrover! The manager was very interested - "My father had a couple of these".

[klonk]

Not much has happened in klonks shed lately, now he's going. I've made up a timber grate for the rear floor and tailgate to save damage when people walk on it.
The week before Christmas it went over the pits and past inspection, but I had the sides down due to rain and forgot tell them about the rear seats in there. On the paper work they had put it in as a 3 seater instead of 7. We tried to amend it but main roads said it had to be inspected again. So it is now registered as a 7 seater and no seat belts. Also insured it with Shannon's .
the Shannon's operator also was rebuilding an 80" and the day before he had written up a policy for Land Rover no 50.
I have taken it out on a trip to a farm 3/4 hr from home on the open road, all went well, but I forgot that the harvest was still going and the road into town was busy with roadtrains carting grain. You then realise how small the 80" landy is.
Last weekend I removed the canvas and dropped the screen and took a mate for a cruise around town, that was fun. 30 mph was quite good but 40mph was getting eye watering uncomfortable.
last night we did our first off road trip through our coastal hills. A mate came along in an Austin champ. The track is close to town and can be cut up by the local village idiots with big tyres.
It took abit to work out which gears do what and when and dropped the tyres down to 15psi and managed to get through with the worst hill taking a couple of try's. I only had to ask my wife once to get out and hold branches out of the road so I didn't scratch the paint. She thought I was joking at first. We got home at 8.30 headlights blazing.

Cheers Steve

[1950landy]

You must have spoken to the same guy at Shannons as I did a couple of years ago when I rang to add my 1984 BMW 323i e30 to the policy. Think he said he was a member on here.
Also fun way to drive , top off & screen down on bonnet, :thumbsup: you get plenty of looks . until you get a bug in the eye. :eek2: :thumbsdown:I have been also abused by a couple of motor bike riders for not having a helmet on .

[Rick Fischer]

Hiya

Think "klonk" looks the goods. Hope mine comes out as well :0)

Mind you still deciding on body outer colour, "cleaned up au naturale" as he came, "rat rodded, scotchbright and semigloss laquer, "Original" or perhaps same as my SVX. Body panels tend toward "au naturale" without reskinning.

Cheers

RF