A well used 80''called Klonk [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

klonk

7th September 2011, 01:14 AM

Well it all started with a phone call, ''Mate come and see what ive found''.
So I went for a look ,sitting in the shed was this poor little beaten up landy, ''you lucky buggar'' as i noticed the galv pipe window frame. Ive always wanted an 80'' landy.It was sitting beside his half rebuilt 55 one.
That was 6 months ago. Last week I got another call ''are you interested in buying the 80''. Cant look a gift horse in the mouth, too many projects on the go his misses said.
So on the trailer it went. While pushing it on the trailer up the ramps there was a loud klonk as a front spring hanger collapsed and the spring sat up against the chassis. Its ok David i thought that might happen,i told my son. So the story was told to mum about the klonk it made when we pushed it on the trailer.Its funny that kids can pickup on a word, so it was agreed that ''Klonk was a good name for ''him''.
After a wash and a closer inspection the enormenty of the job was starting to sink in, lots of rust a few dents and missing bits ,even a bullet hole in the seat box. After checking chassis and engine nos found it is a 50-51 model , engine is the same period as the chassis and seems to have comppression using the crank handle ,but the body is a bitsa ,different colours. its going to take some work .

Sorry I cant work the photo bit to post pics yet will work on that

Cheers Steve

slug_burner

7th September 2011, 08:52 PM

Steve good luck with Klonk.

Get a photobucket account. It is an easy way to get pics up on forums like this one. We all like pictures.

klonk

7th September 2011, 10:28 PM

Here are a few pics of Klonk moving to his new home.http://www.aulro.com/afvb/C:\Users\Barbara\Documents\Steven\smaller pics\DSC00444

JDNSW

8th September 2011, 05:49 AM

Actually, for an unrestored 80", it doesn't look too bad!
(Which does not mean you don't have a lot of work ahead of you!)

John

chris1983rangie

16th September 2011, 08:54 AM

hi, congrats with this new project. Surley does look like a good find. Does the engine turn over, start run? i havent tried to start my 1600 motor yet, but it does turn over by hand. Cool name too!

Cheers,

Chris :cool:

klonk

18th September 2011, 10:51 PM

Thanks to everybody for the replies, I hope that any assistance can be returned sometime.

Well now that Klonk is in the shed the major question is how far do you go on the rebuild. Have I got a diamond or just the dirt. So after lots of time on this site and the internet, he is looking not too bad. Originally assembled by Annard & Thompson; still has the small brass plate on the dash, and the Australian oil spec plate under the bonnet I wonder how he ended up in Albany WA.

Chasis number is 16660816 engine number 16102382 and gearbox 16102656.

Haven't found the diff numbers yet.

I guess the biggest problem so far is trying to find some intruments for the dash, as the ones in the box didn't fit the holes. Secondly rust repairs. Chassis has rusted bulk head outriggers and both cross members under the gearbox are gone. Bulk head is rusted on the top but OK elsewhere, so just the usual really. Next I looked at the engine, I had turned it over with a crank handle before I bought it, it turned and had 4 compressions with no noises. (good start) so after some repairs to the oil pipes to the filter, a new radiator hose, a jerry rigged fuel bottle and a hot wire to the ignition coil, we were ready to turn the crank handle as no starter was fitted, it was in the box.

Ooops forgot to fill the radiator. Hose in and tap on, why is my leg getting wet! Oh as a water jet came out from the front of the radiator. So the tap was adjusted to maintain water level. Now back to the handle.
Bloody water! A few cranks and a couple of push backs, but couldn't get any noise. So into the box, starter tested OK on the floor and 3 studs were found. The battery connected to the lead and starter button pushed, 'beauty it cranks". Choke applied and starter pushed again. A few cranks than a cough, a splutter and he barked into life, as the exhaust is broken off below the bulk head, after a warm up he idled away happily.

No smoke only a few fumes from the breather. After blocking up the rear wheels he was restarted and the gear box and diff run. All sounded good, so there is light at the end of the tunnel.

Cheers Steve

newhue

19th September 2011, 06:26 PM

Steve,
great news

I could picture it as I was reading, magic moment.

Sleepy

19th September 2011, 07:03 PM

Looks a ripper. Good Luck with it.:D

Drew Parker

20th September 2011, 10:09 AM

Steve - I had a similar moment when my '52 fired up for the first time for me in August.... contageous grins all round.

Without a starter housing I had to revert to less refined starting aids... ie a tow-rope. Unfortunately she would idle but declined to do more without a carb cleanout.

At least, on putting her back in the shed (until my next break at home), I had the confidence that there was life in her yet.

klonk

20th October 2011, 01:26 AM

Well weve been working away slowly and now have more parts on the other side of the shed as seen in the photos, now have to organise a crane to lift the engine out and make a stand to move it about then i can start on the chassis. have got a replacement gearbox crossmember off evilbay and after talking to ''chazza'' on the phone have decided to make up the gearbox member,outriggers and dumb irons. Only one surprise, the rear diff is making funny noises,sounds like spider gears but have not yet removed from housing to look.
Once I get everything dismantled things will slow down, as i am starting a weekend business doing auto air/con in heavy machinery,so when winter comes around Ill have some time and money to repair klonk.
Found the diff no's front 16102484 rear 16104408
Have found an old Thread on LRSOC about a landy that was bought in byron bay and exported o/s his chassis no is about 100 away from klonks.
Interesting to compair component no's.
Thanks everybody for the comments and shared experiances,ive found the info on here really helpfull.

Cheers Steve

isuzurover

20th October 2011, 01:40 AM

Great work!

Personally, on vehicles in that good condition to start with, I prefer the restorations that preserve the original patina, rather than the "better than new" restorations done to many series 1s.

klonk

20th November 2011, 12:59 AM

Well just a quick update.

Finally got klonk stripped out, sorry my camera doesnt seem to like taking photos inside the shed. So Im starting to get things washed up now.

I have reconditioned the first part ready to install, its the brake fluid container, managed to soldier a patch over the hole, and paint. have also repaired the steering relay, just a couple of new seals fixed that.

So next will be the chassis so will make patterns next but will require a lot of work, both dumb irons, both bulkhead outriggers and three crossmembers to repair. Managed to buy a bellhousing crossmember off evilbay so that has helped ,will make the rest.

The swivel housings have lost most of their chrome. Do people rechrome or replace these with new ones.

Cheers for now Steve

chazza

20th November 2011, 07:26 AM

The swivel housings have lost most of their chrome. Do people rechrome or replace these with new ones.

G'day Steve,
I have used an epoxy filler to fill the pits on my S3 after de-rusting the swivels first in a molasses bath. The chap who put me on to it said he had run his car for a couple of years with no oil leaks,

Cheers Charlie

newhue

20th November 2011, 08:03 AM

Steve, if you go down the epoxy metal on the swivel ends road, don't do what I did and layer the epoxy on quite thick and expect to sand it back easily.
I had a build of maybe 2mm on some of the pits and gave up trying to sand it smooth. Where I did sand it back, I tended to blow through in one spot with still plenty to sanding t do around that blown spot.
Perhaps several light skims with something at moulds around the ball would be better.
In the end I found some new ones from Paddocks, 60 ponds or so heaps easier, but it does keep the dollar counter ticking over.

Landy Smurf

23rd November 2011, 07:24 AM

i greased mine for now and will get new ones later

mick88

23rd November 2011, 07:54 AM

G'day Steve,
I have used an epoxy filler to fill the pits on my S3 after de-rusting the swivels first in a molasses bath. The chap who put me on to it said he had run his car for a couple of years with no oil leaks,

Cheers Charlie

Charlie how long did you leave them in the molasses bath for and what epoxy filler did you use?

Cheers, Mick

chazza

23rd November 2011, 08:03 AM

Leave them in the bath until the rust has dissolved - a scrub with a wire brush each day speeds things up. 1 part molasses to 10 of water; hot water makes things happen quicker but is not essential.

I used Quick Steel but any similar filler should work; the original recipe I read about was Araldite but I suspect that might be a bit hard to work with before and after it sets,

Cheers Charlie

klonk

19th December 2011, 01:35 AM

Thanks Guys

havent been here for awhile busy with other stuff, Thanks charlie for the molassis bath tip, have set up a 20 ltr drum its surprising what will fit in there, so have been cleaning up front axel hubs ,brakes and other stuff, im blown away by how well it works.

Have also modified the steering wheel to take a horn button out of a S2a with the slip rings on the steering column, the original column had been replaced at sometime. Its not quite right but it looks better than the blank plate that was fitted.

I have been given a S2a by an aquaintance if I went and got it, So thought ''what the hell'' could use some of the parts!. It was only 50 km away, not to bad, but when we got there it turned out to be a late model 6 cyl one and has S3 type wiper motor setup,a streight gear stick and a rusted out chassis with a 161 holden motor. So I couldnt use much of it at all. Anyway we got it home and unloaded put a battery, water and petrol in it and away it went, engine smokes a little bit but the rest drives ok.

If anybody wants any parts off it please let me know. we will remove the engine and gearbox, diffs and axels and probably scrap the rest. The farm kids have broken the dash guages but the hard top is still good, doortops rusty.

Photos are of the cleaned up swivel housing and hub and another find i made that will be kept for later.

Cheers for now Steve.

newhue

19th December 2011, 04:53 AM

Nice work Steve,

tanks for the update. Looks like you will be in Landy resto mode for some time to come.

klonk

27th February 2012, 12:18 AM

Hi Guys,

A quick up date and a couple of photos to prove that I have been doing some work to klonk. The first is the parts that have been in the mollassis bath, the second is parts that Ive rebuilt, unfortunatly not many of them are 80'' parts but they can be changed when I find the correct ones.

When I stripped the diffs down the gears are all in good order but every crownwheel bolt was broken in both diffs,only one turn on each bolt to remove, no damage thankfully.

Also have the seats underway, abit early I know, but we have a trip up to dads at easter, he has an industrial sewing machine to sew up the covers. Bought some vinyl from spotlight the colour is called ''forest''. the seat backs still had horse hair padding and it matched the colour under the hinge bracket i removed, but need to sort out some foam yet and cut it to shape.

So the next job I guess will be the chassis, cant avoid it any longer. I scored a small mig welder from work during a clean out. The boss bought it from an auction, but it was abit of a dud so he bought a new one. I took it home gave it a clean up bought $15 worth of parts and away it went. So no excuses now.

Cheers Steve

back_in

27th February 2012, 09:42 PM

Hi Sreve
I am coming in a little late
be aware Molasses will dissolve or pit over time non Ferris metals
cheers
Ian

klonk

27th February 2012, 11:00 PM

Thanks Ian

Wasnt aware of that, luckly I have only put the steel parts in the bath. Opps forgot about the brake light switch. The mollassis seems to struggle with the spring steel on the road springs, didnt do a very good job on them.

Cheers Steve

chazza

28th February 2012, 08:25 AM

The mollassis seems to struggle with the spring steel on the road springs, didnt do a very good job on them.

Cheers Steve

G'day Steve,
Two possibilities spring to mind why this might be so:
Were the springs de-greased?
Were they the last into the bath? Perhaps the mix needed re-juvenating,

Cheers Charlie

klonk

22nd April 2012, 11:34 PM

Well I couldnt put it off any more, the chassis, it was a wet weekend, (beudy) first since christmas! After planning an attack and buying the bits to start,it was a now or never. As can be seen the dumb irons have been in the wars and previous owner had done some repairs? The gearbox crossmember was shot along with the bellhousing member and bulkhead mounts. I was lucky to get a removed bellhousing member off ebay in good condition, from a bloke in Canberra, (thanks if you are on the site). the old one was removed along with the rats nests and plastic bags in the chassis rail and the new one welded in.
The gearbox member I copied. A sheetmetel shop bent up a top hat section to match the original shape then I cut and bent to match. Yet to be fitted. I made a cardboard template of the front dumbiron side profile to cut new ones out of 2mm sheet. It was difficult to start cutting into the chassis ,just doesnt seem right, but once started it was plain sailing.
Will post more photos as work progresses.

Cheers Steve

outback jeff

24th April 2012, 05:23 PM

Hi Steve,

Next time I'm working on mine and I start complaining to myself about how bad the rust in mine is, I'm going to come back and look at yours and say to myself "Its not that bad stop complaining". Mate good luck with the repairs.

Cheers Jeff

Johnno1969

24th April 2012, 05:44 PM

Yeah, Steve, you're making a great start - and I also promise not to complain about the condition of my chassis.

Good luck with the rest of the build.

John

dick180641

8th May 2012, 09:15 PM

Be advised that the 10% molasses mix WILL eat into cast iron (as well as most non-ferrous metals) Always pull the item out of the mix every day or so, give it a rinse and check for corrosion. it will also eat away you 20lt drum in no time, use a plastic dish, bucket or 1/2 a 250lt 'blue plastic' drum for big stuff.

klonk

8th May 2012, 11:33 PM

Thanks Guys,

Yea the chassis I was aware of when I bought it ,but the catch is getting the time to work on it, doing the job isnt too bad really. during the dismantle I could go to the shed in the evening and do stuff and it didnt eat into the family or weekend worktime. The chassis on the other hand is ''a day time'' type job as there is more setup time and more noise involved, so getting a spare day is harder to come by.

Dick thanks for the comments, I used a 20 ltr plastic bucket and builders plastic sheet in a trench in the ground for the bigger stuff. (thanks chazza)

Cheers Steve

chazza

9th May 2012, 07:33 AM

Nice work Steve!

Whilst you have the ends off the chassis, is a good time to take it to the sand-blasters so that they can squirt inside the rails. I had mine done just before I put the back cross-member on,

Cheers Charlie

klonk

8th July 2012, 11:01 PM

Well at last, managed a couple of weekends off,and got to sort out the chassis, as can be seen. Hindsight is a wonderful thing, to anybody going to do this job, assemble the dumb iron on a bench and weld on as a complete unit. I did a piece by piece repair on the chassis and had trouble with welds pulling and keeping things in line. Found out theres more to engineering than just using a welder! But it ended up pretty good.
Next job is to make up the bulkhead outriggers and fit, which wont be as bad .

Cheers for now

Steve

JayBoRover

10th July 2012, 08:32 PM

Looks like it's coming along nicely there Steve. Finding time for this resto stuff is a bit of a challenge isn't it:D.

klonk

14th July 2012, 10:41 PM

Hi all

Have been playing with klonks steeringbox, someone has fitted a S2a box and made abit of a mess of the bracket so will have to build another one. I understand the 2a box is 1'' longer in the column than the original which puts the steering wheel close to the petrol tank lid. Was wondering if someone could measure their column length from the wheel clampbolt to the top of the support bracket, to give me an idea of how far out mine is.

The other is that the steering arm hits the throttle linkage but the steeringbox hasnt reached the end of its travel, (4 turns end to end) so shifting the box forward will help this problem. Maybe the steering stops will fix this when the front axel is fitted as well.

Also where should the steeringbox be braced to stop the firewall flexing that Ive heard mentioned.

Any other suggestions appreciated thanks.

Cheers Steve

klonk

3rd October 2012, 12:58 AM

Well Ive reached the last job on the chassis, the dumb irons are finished and spring mounts fitted, new outriggers made and fitted and chassis rails repaired under the outriggers, second hand tub crossmember repaired and fitted (thanks AlexH), steering box mods done, new bumpstop plates made and holes underneath repaired and finally the gearbox crossmember to be welded in.

However while I was setting up the gearbox crossmember for welding I gave thought as to whether I had got all the angles correct when I had made it as I took the sizes off the original but as it was rather bent I had a guess at the angles. So before I make this a permanent fitting I was wondering if some one could measure the gap from the bottom of the chassis rails to the top of the crossmember middle section under the gearbox. You may have to sit a small straight piece of something on the top of the crossmember to come out to the chassis rail to measure. Mine is 1'' below the chassis rail. This crossmember will affect the angle of the drive shaft so would like to get it to its original position. I have looked a one locally but it is an inch lower than mine and home made as well.

Cheers Steve

chazza

3rd October 2012, 07:57 AM

G'day Steve,
As close as I can estimate with two rules, mine looks to be 50mm from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the crossmember.

Mine has been replaced by myself but I took particular care to get it in the right place - the gearbox is nice and level anyway,

Cheers Charlie

Landy Smurf

3rd October 2012, 08:07 AM

i made a new one up as mine was rusted out , but it was fairly straight and i put alot of effort into it to get right, i am not sure if i put the angles in my thread but you could see the photos and it might say. but i will have a look tonight or tomorrow morning if someone else hasnt

klonk

3rd October 2012, 10:43 PM

Thanks Charlie and Tony

Tony
I had a look through your thread and found your diagram but I couldnt read the dimensions, even with zoom, but it looks differerent to mine even in the photos I found. That is one big thread.

Will see if any one else comes up with any thing.

Cheers Steve

Landy Smurf

4th October 2012, 06:30 AM

i measured the bottom of the gearbox xmember to the bottom of the chassis which was 100mmand the gearbox xmember is about 60mm so that leaves 40mm, maybe you could take some rubber out of the mounts?

klonk

4th October 2012, 09:43 PM

Well tonight I sat down with a large sheet of paper and drew up the three measurements for the crossmember, mine at 25mm Tonys at 40 and Charlies at 50. Found there was not a lot of change in gearbox height as thought, from 25-40mm dropped the g/box 6mm, from 25-50mm dropped the g/box 10 mm. I dont think this would make too much difference to the drive shaft angle, so for the work involved to remake the crossmember I think I might leave well enough alone. The major difference between the measurements is the clearance under the g/box, so will have to check that next time Im over at the shed.
Thanks for your efforts getting the measurements guys.

Cheers Steve

klonk

10th October 2012, 12:05 AM

Last night I completed the last repair on klonks chassis, Im glad to see the back of that! Only the gearbox x member needs welding on but not sure about the correct position of that yet the old marks dont line up with the measurements on the plans, so might need to sit the engine and g/box in to get it right. So now abit of bog to fill in a few spots and will leave the painting untill Ive repaired the bulkhead and paint both together. Will get some photos at the weekend.

At the weekend I bought a can of satin black paint to paint the dash guage bezels. The speedo is a NOS one and the PO had polished the brass bezel when he sold it.:( The fuel guage is from an MG car and had a chrome ring. Amp meter is from a Massey ferg tractor at the wreckers and also had a chrome ring. The paint came up well when finished. The ignition switch I got is a reproduction one also with a chrome ring around the outside, so I decided to paint that as well. It was too hard to mask the inner black circle with the writing on it using the tape so I used grease on a paint brush to neatly mask it up, then sprayed. All was well untill I wiped the grease from the face, the black and the writing that was covered came off with the grease, nothing but shiney chrome:mad: Oh S--T not happy Jan! I have found a tranfer from a vintage car place in the UK to fix the problem unless anybody knows of someone here that has them.

Cheers Steve

klonk

31st October 2012, 12:28 AM

Just a couple of photos of the progress so far. The bulkhead has the usual rust, but the drivers side had a few cracks caused by steering box flex in the past, and the top panel under the windscreen frame had a few rust holes but wasnt to bad.
Ive used rainex rust buster on the chassis etc, hence the white powdery finish. Two coats with a sand inbetween, as the outside wasnt in to bad a condition.
The new parts of the chassis look abit out of place, too flat and smooth compaired to the rest, never mind, not much of it will be seen.

Cheers Steve

Landy Smurf

31st October 2012, 09:47 AM

where did you get the chassis parts from?
looking good it is great when the chassis and firewall is done and all painted up, keep the good work up

klonk

31st October 2012, 11:06 PM

Thanks Tony,

The bellhousing one I got off Ebay from someone in Canberra, the tub xmember I got from AlexH in Tassie. The rest I made templates and cut out from sheet. Includes both dumbirons, both outriggers and the gearbox xmember, as you know. I did revisit the gearbox xmember it now has 45mm drop and sits better against the g/box mounts. It got the better of me.

Cheers Steve

andy_d110

31st October 2012, 11:35 PM

Coming along well Steve! Feel free to come fix my chassis anytime :p

Will it be done for the 65th...

Defender Mike

1st November 2012, 07:11 PM

Looking good I can't wait to get home from East and pull my bits out of the molasses before they disappear.

Mick O'Neill

9th November 2012, 06:24 PM

hi guys, i have 2 series 1's, 1 x 80 inch, 1 x 86 inch, both stripped down, mostly there, cost me $1000, will sell for $500, heaps of parts, 1 x engine number 22 2 litre that I believe still runs though I havent heard it. email me if you are interested micknber@tpg.com.au I live in gladstone central queensland, but be mindful that if you want them ya gotta take the lot, as work comittments have stopped me from continuing on with these projects.

Landy Smurf

9th November 2012, 09:55 PM

hey mick you need to advertise these in the marketplace i think you will have no trouble in selling them

Mick O'Neill

10th November 2012, 08:56 AM

Oops, sorry mate, I guess I shouldn't have beer before browsing heh heh

klonk

25th November 2012, 01:15 AM

Well last weekend was the first without rain for 2 weekends(fine during the week). So klonks chassis and bulkhead has now been undercoated and fish oiled. The undercoat is zinc based for rust resistance. I was carefull not to cover the chassis no. Before painting I cleaned out the numbers with an "o"ringpick, even the 2nd number on the chassis rail came up well.
The fish oil was applied by using 3 meters of the small garden irrigation tube and a 180 deg brass nozzel the same size od as the tube, this was attached to a flushgun I use for flushing A/C hoses. I found that I had to turn the flushgun upside down to add air and reduce the solid flow of oil as I think I put 1/2 a ltr into the top box section of the bulkhead in one pass, oil was running out everywhere.
Klonks progress will slow down for a while now, as I have got a building permit for Klonks new shed at home, so weekends will be spent doing that. Ive been lucky to be using a shed at the small private school were my wife works, they bought the property next door to the school. It had a house and three sheds on 2 acres and only one neighbour in the street. Its been great being able to weld and grind at 10pm, cant do that in suburbia.
Speaking of the neighbour. While working on klonk ive often wondered what sort of person would have owned a landrover back then. Maybe an elderly gent, tartan cap, neatly trimmed beard, with a terrier type dog in the passenger seat. Well the other night there was a bang bang on the shed wall, when I looked up there was an elderly man with a neatly trimmed beard wearing a tartin cap with a small white dog sitting at his feet. He was looking around the shed. ''Ooh'' he said, yer got yerself a little lan rover in ere, I knew you ad something in ere I could ere yer bangin and crashin. (Pommy accent). Well just about rolled around on the shed floor laughing. turned out he used to own a 1950 80'' back in England years ago. He had also restored a mini cooper, a Ford capri v6 and still has 2 vintage bikes he restored and still rides. Not bad for a 75 yr old. He and the previous owner of the house had built the shed, but had not used it for the purpose it was built for, Yes restoring cars. So he was pleased and was going to tell his mate who was now in a nursing home. I promised to take them for a ride when klonk is finished.

Cheers Steve

Landy Smurf

25th November 2012, 10:37 AM

ah that is looking schmick!

klonk

20th December 2012, 11:40 PM

A bit of an update, have been panelbeating the front guards. Drivers side was abit of a mess, got rid of the 1/4'' of bog down the front and made rivits from ali welding rod to reattach the inner guard . There was too many poprivit holes to re spot weld it and I couldnt buy any in town. Had to shrink the outer panel due to it being streached. Quite a scary operation first time. The panel will rise about 1/2'' in a lump when heat is applied at the worst streached point, approx 2'' dia , then you have to drop the torch grab the wooden dolly for underneath and use the slapper on top to work around the lump and push it into the center and flatten it off then allow to cool. As it cools it pulls tight. Takes about 45 seconds. When finished you have to restreighten the panel.
I would rather panelbeat Ali than steel, its more moveable once you get used to it. Still have a few holes to repair.

Cheers Steve

123rover50

21st December 2012, 05:54 AM

Well done, good work.
Do you use a colour crayon to get the right temp?
I have not got into panel beating much, what does your slapper look like?
Keith

chazza

21st December 2012, 07:56 AM

Fantastic work Steve - a joy to behold! :D Thanks for the tip about shrinking, you have inspired me to have another go at my wing.

Keith; wet a cake of soap until it starts to go soft and then wipe it onto the aluminium, then heat the metal until the soap turns black. Make sure that it is black and not brown; brown is not hot enough. When it cools, the Al will be annealed but it will age-harden over about a day or two.

There is a photo of my slapper here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-iia/146620-panel-beating-2a-roof.html second photo in the middle. I made mine from an old bastard file and bent a handle onto it using the oxy torch,

Cheers Charlie

Landy Smurf

21st December 2012, 08:39 AM

that is amazing steve i would love it if i could do anything like that. where did you get it spot welded?

klonk

21st December 2012, 11:53 PM

Keith,
Didnt use a crayon I put carbon over the area using the acetylene only, then heat the area with the normal flame until the carbon burns off. This is anneiling temp and is just under welding temp.
I made my slapper from 50x4 mm flat bar, bent in a zed shape and handle shaped for comfort. The slapper is the best tool as it leaves the surface smoother than using hammers. Will get some photos after Christmas.
Don't overthink panel beating aluminium same principles as steel really,just abit softer. Any metal will stretch if hit too hard. The hard part is getting the panel shape correct.

Tony
No spot welding was done, all done with the rivets I made.

Charlie Just time and patience.

Merry Christmas to all

Cheers Steve

Deefa

23rd December 2012, 10:17 PM

Yes aluminium is easier to shrink than steel, I used to be a panel beater/spraypainter years back and finished a series 2a for a club member recently, its put me in the mood for a little 80 to restore one day. Great project you have there, looking good.

klonk

24th February 2013, 11:02 PM

Well its been rather quiet in klonks shed since Christmas. But not at home. The old 50 hp merc outboard on our boat run a bigend. I got halfway through rebuilding it using aquired spareparts from under the bench (landrover of the sea) when a workmate said he had 2 x 75hp mercs at home that he wanted rid of. 1 was seized (plastic bag over water intake), 1 was good, 1985 models. $500 for the pair! Anyway after lots of work to change over, it started up well sounds sweet and gives me another 15kph:).

Next was the shed pad. A big cleanup and small shed removed,200mm of soil removed to level the pad and a 6mx5m boxing was setup for the slab,and 4 mates helped to pour the concrete. now waiting for some customers to pay to continue the rest.

So this weekend I got a coat of undercoat put on klonks diff housings, hubs, brakedrums and fuel tank guard. Replaced the rearwheel brgs and have done abit more panel beating, welding up some holes and cracks in the front wings as per photos. My welding is a bit rough but the grinder tidys it up but sometimes you need to reweld. Its not as easy as doing new Ali. I used strips of an old panel, it works better than Tig rods but you need to clean the strip well and Im not sure on the width of the strips, I used 1/4'' wide this was good for filling gaps but too big for rivit holes etc so maybe an assortment of widths for different jobs. Had to use a steel arc welding rod to push the moultin ali together due to the surface tension and oxidized ali, it doesnt flow like silversolder of softsolder.

123rover50
Keith, 4th photo is the slapper I made. 300mm x 50mm x 6mm. Each to his own, its probabily abit heavy but it works.

Cheers Steve

klonk

14th March 2013, 09:24 PM

The other night I decieded to start on klonks tub, so I sat it in position on the chassis and pushed and pulled to get it sitting right with bolts in the corners, then had to adjust the tailgate opening to square it up again so I could close it. I then checked the tops of the tub to make sure they were level and square with each other, it was then I noticed that the tub wasnt square with the bulkhead. The bukhead was about about 1/2'' lower on the passengers side, after checking measurements on both tub and bulk head everything seemed ok. I removed the bolts from the passengers side A pillar and chassis, packed it up level and it is the thickness of the A pillar bolt out of align.The doors also fit better when packed up
When I replaced the outriggers I used the bolts that go through the chassis rail as a guide to hold the bulkhead in position while the outriggers were welded on, with the bulkhead packed up to level these bolt holes are a bolt hole width out as well.
Next I checked the chassis, all the crossmembers are level with each other and the front and rear members are original, so the chassis is not twisted.
The only way that Ive come up with to solve it is to extend the bulkhead brackets and redrill the holes and cut and reweld the outrigger, but I have the funny feeling that something else will bite me on the backside
Surley they werent this far out from the factory.
Will get some photos tonight

Cheers Steve

klonk

15th March 2013, 01:20 AM

Found the culprit, It was an Englishman in 1950 that drilled two holes in the wrong place:mad:.
The first photo shows the problem, second and third is where the outrigger ended up below level and how far out the chassis rail holes are when the bulkhead is level.
The chassis holes have 4mm differance from the top of the rail on the left one, compared to the one on the right .

Now where is that warranty form.

Cheers Steve

klonk

9th June 2013, 11:51 PM

Cant believe how this year has flown by. Slow progress and Im starting to dislike welding ali :twisted: sometimes its one step forward two steps back. learnt one important lesson, do not cleanup the cut ali strips on a steel wire wheel, use a stainless one or use alumimium oxide sand paper not emery cloth. I cheated one night and cleaned a couple of strips on the steel wheel to finish a weld and it just would not take, ended up cutting out the patch to start again it contaminated the whole weld. :censored:

Had a couple of finds at the local wreckers, a pair of foldup rear seats out of a 2a and a jaeger dual guage, the water capillary tube is broken,but the oil line was connected. Can anyone advise where to get it repaired.

Does anyone carry passengers in the back of their landy? Cant wait to see the look on the Coppers face when he see's 7 people on board and no seat belts :twisted:. Well maybe only on special occassions.

Have checked out the springs and looks like I will have to get them lowered, they have 6'' free camber instead of 4.5'', looks like the last place that reset them must have mistaken them for normal landy springs and not 80'' ones, funny but most other people have the opposite problem.

As you can see still lots more welding and beating to be done on the tub. It was interesting to remove the spare wheel carrier from the bonnet and find a good paint sample under it, not much gloss on it either. The bonnet had some large dents under the windscreen supports due to past abuse, a straight edge is a handy tool for panelbeating, no bog there.

klonk

9th June 2013, 11:53 PM

Just a couple more photos, Abit more work to be done on the front wing but getting better

Landy Smurf

7th August 2013, 11:04 PM

How is Klonk going?

P.s. HAPPY BIRTHDAY :beer:

klonk

8th August 2013, 08:59 PM

Cheers Tony,

Not much happening in klonks shed at the moment, its been wet and very damp here this year, a lot of my work is outside and by the time I get home at night I can't be botherd going to the shed at night.
I have been asked to vacate the shed where I have klonk by Christmas :( As the school has the shed earmarked for a classroom next year along with 4 others to be built, a 50% increase in kids next year from 100 -150. Never mind it was good to be there . So I've been making him a new shed at home, not as big as I would like, but it will have to do (6x5mtrs) , dont Like suburbia. The frame is finished and is now ready for the iron this weekend.Will post photos soon.
I have been working on the radiator panel, it had bad cracks ,bad electrolysis where a PO had added some angle iron to the bottom edge for strength and a large hole where the horn was mounted and broke away. Also halfway through doing the rear seats, (paint and upholstery)
So abit happening just not much landrovering, never mind !

Cheers Steve. :beer:

LandyAndy

8th August 2013, 09:09 PM

Giday Steve.
Been wet up here too for a change,its actually rained every day this week:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

Landy Smurf

8th August 2013, 09:16 PM

6x5 is plenty big enough for a series one :)
Looking forward to seeing the photos

klonk

13th August 2013, 12:08 AM

Well its raining AGAIN, hasnt stopped for the last month, not all day but just when you get setup to do something outside, it pours down then drizzels for a couple of hrs to make sure your really done.

Anyway a couple of photos of klonks new shed, ready for cladding. I have picked up some second hand iron from a mate that was pulling down a bigger shed so have to clean it up before fitting, ready for painting. wont be alot of room left when full. Camping,fishing,boating,shooting,4 mtr R/C glider and horseriding gear. Just as well klonks only little.

Have been working on klonks radiator panel, starting to look better now, pulled the side panel off to weld cracks underneath, am going to sikaflex it together again.

The rear seats are from a S2a but will do the job only us experts will know the difference, havent got the foam for the bottom seat yet, the shed has priority over the finances. I want to use some closed cell foam under the foam rubber as it gives alittle bit more comfort for those in the back. Painted with hammertone charcoal, kind of looks like old galv if it looses some gloss.

Cheers Steve

klonk

15th October 2013, 11:40 PM

Well klonks new home is just about done despite the continual rain. ridge cap,gutters, paint job, and power is left to do. The inside was done courtsy of the scrape timber pile at work, managed to score 3 mtrs of laminated kitchen bench top for the bench, all the melamine board for the cuboard and shelves also for the loft in the rafters. So now for the first time in 10 years most things have a place and not in a box in a tempary shed. Its nice to be in :D.

Klonk wont be moving in for a while, will do some painting of parts first and then move him in, now will have to get back into landrover mode.

Cheers Steve

Pickles2

16th October 2013, 07:50 AM

Hello Steve, I've just taken about half an hour to read right through this thread. Sensational.
From what you started with, and now, building your own shed as well, that is really good work.
And those front guards,...what a TOP job you did on them.
Can't wait to see more progress.
Klonk mightn't be a "Klonk" any more when you've finished?
Congratulations, Pickles.

Defender Mike

16th October 2013, 06:42 PM

klonk

23rd November 2013, 12:27 AM

Well managed to get down to the shed and start a couple of jobs again. The first was to rebuild the fuel pump did a round up of parts in the box, as there wasnt a complete pump in the engine bay. Found all the parts to assemble one. The diaphram was like new and still soft, found all the diaphram rollers and best of all a set of twin point contacts. So after a clean up,paint and assembly the pump bounces around on the bench when connected to a battery and blows air out the outlet :p.
The second job was to lower the leaf springs by 2'', Someone must have set them up to the usual landrover height ie 6'' instead of 4'' for an 80'' vehicle. most people would kill for a 2'' lift but the broken rear driveshaft uni joints told a different story too much angle for such a short shaft.
So the springs were dismantled and the rust cleaned off with a grinder, then a coat of rust buster to stop it comming back. A good bluegum stump and a four pound hammer were then put into action. Started at the top leaf to reduce the camber, then down the stack fitting each one against the other. Then clamped the pack and measured to check camber. I allowed 1/2'' extra height to allow it to settle abit. It took about 2 hrs per spring to do and 3 days between each one to let the left hand return to normal after all the jaring from holding the spring. Glad I dont do that for a living.
Photos 2 and 3 show the difference between the two cambers.

Cheers for now Steve

Defender Mike

23rd November 2013, 05:25 PM

Hi Steve,

Did you ever find the swamp landy,s . I just heard the story from a guy who gets parts from them.:)
Lots of them !!!!!!
Mike

komaterpillar

23rd November 2013, 07:34 PM

BLOODY HELL!!! That's a pretty solid effort with those springs :o

klonk

24th November 2013, 01:08 AM

Mike

Yes Ive been out to the swamp for a look, lots of landys but mostly S2 and 2a. Saw 1 80'' wreck a S1 109 that had a holden fitted and a 86'' truck cab also another 80'' that he rebuilt when he was a kid. klonk was part of his collection and that is where most of klonks missing parts went , into his rebuild. He started the rebuilt one and it didnt run very well, klonks engine runs heaps better so Im glad of that.
Dont go there if you havent called him first, or you could be looking down the barrel of a shotgun or eaten by the dogs.

Cheers Steve

gusthedog

24th November 2013, 08:04 AM

Great thread Steve! Really impressed by your range of skills! Especially the panel beating. My attempts are not as good:D keep up the good work and Klonk will be on the road soon!

wrinklearthur

24th November 2013, 09:06 AM

:p Hi Steve
.

wrinklearthur

24th November 2013, 09:12 AM

Got to watch what is written !!!!

Day off mowing lawns and fixing Land Rovers, so what will I do?

I might go down to the collection and swap the fuel tanks over from a donor 86" and fit it into 'HECter' as they are both about the same year.

As long as I don't work on Land Rovers on my day off! :D

Didn't bother playing with 'HECter', as I had visitors for afternoon tea instead, left the visitors but did eat their cake!
.

Defender Mike

24th November 2013, 12:29 PM

klonk

31st December 2013, 01:43 AM

Yay christmas is here, time off !

Well things are moving along in klonks shed in more ways that one, I have to be out of the shed by the 6th of Jan so the builders can make a start to turn it into a classroom for the school. So things had to happen. Firstly some painting. Deep bronze green and some black paint was bought.

Thanks Dinty, I went to the local paint shop with your code, had two choices,cheap stuff that chalks up after 6 months or good stuff thats expensive, the good stuff it was then and Selemix was the brand on the tin. However I have chosen to use both colours in a satin finish so matting agent was added to reduce the gloss to 50% normal. Hopefully this will help hide some of the amature panelbeating. Chassis, bulkhead, axels and brake parts were done along with a few other bits. So now the move is on, some mates are comming to help shift the heavy stuff and a car trailer borrowed for the chassis, so lunch time should see him in his new home. the new shed is great but it is too close to the house for a man cave.

Cheers Steve

Happy new year to all :spudnikparty:

Dinty

31st December 2013, 06:39 PM

Great work Steve, cheers Dennis:angel:

andy_d110

31st December 2013, 07:10 PM

Klonk is looking great mate, well done. It's always satisfying getting a coat of jam on after all the grinding & welding!

Good luck with the move. When's the shed warming party?

Happy new year,

Andy.

Pickles2

1st January 2014, 09:12 AM

Good to hear, (& see!) more about Klonk, and that he will soon have a permanent home.
The paint looks EXCELLENT.
Thanks, Pickles.

klonk

16th January 2014, 12:52 AM

Well now klonk has settled into his shed. The engine and gearbox were steamed cleaned while they were on the back of the ute during the shift, lots of rust was washed out of the engine block and head. The shed roof trusses carried the load of the engine without a creak when lifting it off the ute.
Carbi, generater and waterpump have been removed for repair. The carbi has a broken and missing air corrector jet, which explains why it wouldnt rev. Generater has a broken front mount, rotten field winding tape and a worn keyway in the pulley. The waterpump was leaking .
Have also dismantled the gearbox, its got all of the usual landrover gearbox problems. Worn center brg on the mainshaft, first and reverse worn out and broken brass bush, but also a very worn 2nd gear as per photo, lots of bad gear changes to do that, but the transferbox was fine except for a very worn housing where the hi/lo selector enters the box.
The water pump has been pressed apart and is in the molassis bath for a clean up. Ive been to the bearing shop and got a bearing and seal but will need machining to make it fit, will do photos when it happens. Check out the rusted shaft on the bearing
So thats been my search and destroy mission,so now will see what parts I can find about the place.

Cheers Steve

Landy Smurf

16th January 2014, 07:49 AM

Geez parts come up nice with steam cleaning :D
I wish I had a steam cleaning machine , beats getting heaps oily.

Looking the goods Steve, just keep plugging away :)

klonk

26th February 2014, 01:15 AM

Managed to get time to get machine up the waterpump parts in the lathe after work and assembled the other night.

To start the bearing had to have one end machined down to 1/2'' from 5/8'' for the waterpump impeller, the other end was shortened up for the pulley hub, both these have to be a press fit onto the shaft. The bearing has a center groove around it and I had to grind a bigger flat spot for the holding bolt, this needs to be a neat fit as it holds the the bearing, if this is not secured properly the impeller could hit the housing causing damage to both parts and a destroyed waterpump.

Next I machined up a spacer ring to fit the seal into the main housing, the new seal is about 1 mm smaller in diameter than the old seal. This was fitted into the housing with loctite so it will stay there.
Then the impeller hub was machined, 3mm was taken off the face of the impeller and then a 2mm recess for the ceramic seal face to sit so it remains central to the seal as the hole in the middle is bigger than the bearing shaft. This was nessary because the new seal is longer than the old one and it is a two piece seal. This gave the seal 2mm of compression.

The pump was then assembled, seal fitted first then the bearing, locked with the bolt. The fan hub was fitted ,107mm from the hub face to the waterpump gasket face for the 1600 engines. Finally the impeller was pressed on untill there was 10thou clearance between the impeller vanes and the housing. When pressing this on dont sit the pump on the fan hub or it will move when pressing, press on the bearing shaft so only the impeller moves.
It should turn smoothly but you should feel resistance from the seal and hopefully it wont leak when fitted.

Sorry I didnt have the camera when I was pressing it together. It took abit of work but at least the bearing and seal are now easy to replace if I happen to wear it out.

Cheers Steve

Pickles2

26th February 2014, 07:32 AM

I love this thread. Unreal detail there Steve. Where did you learn those skills?
Cheers, Pickles.

klonk

26th February 2014, 08:49 AM

Thanks pickles,

used to be an old time tractor mechanic back in the days when you could repair parts not just replace them.

Cheers Steve

klonk

24th March 2014, 01:19 AM

slug_burner

24th March 2014, 08:10 AM

Slow progress at the moment for land rover rebuilds, too much going on work wise.
Have done a few bits in the evenings though. Generator and starter have been overhauled along with the voltage regulator. The aircleaner has been cleaned and the rust holes in the bottom have been miged up and has now been undercoated, its not the correct one but will do to get it on the road.
Ive been tossing up what to do with the swivel balls. It seems the aftermarket ones rust in a couple years even when not used. No one in Perth wants to rechrome them for me, so have decided to have them powder coated in silver. Im not sure how this will go but the powdercoating man squashed a coated ali tube with a hammer and the coating didnt crack, flake or mark. Best of all $70 each.
I have removed all the old chrome and have polished out the worn areas. There are a few nicks and scratches that the powdercoating can fill in.
Polishing was done with a 9'' 80 grit sanding disc on a hand polisher using the overhanging edge, very lightly. Took about two hrs each. The chrome came off easy.

Cheers for now Steve

Don't expect more from your powder coating than from the after market chromed balls. You just need to look at the powder coated bull bars to see that rust gets in and starts to lift the powder coating as the rust creeps under the paint. If the is a good cost advantage the you have less to lose with you experiment with powder coating.

a little concerned about the polished out the warn areas comment as I doubt that you could polish out more than minor surface discolourations, any wear you would need to consider building the material back up. Perhaps the seals have enough give to deal with the surface being less than spherical to a tolerance.

I don't understand people not wanting to chrome your swivel balls, they are familiar with having to fill rust pits etc. so don't know why they would be knocking business back.

Phil B

24th March 2014, 08:40 AM

Steve,

Great skills and posts.

Regards,

Phil

chazza

24th March 2014, 09:24 AM

What about filling the pits with an epoxy-filler Steve?

I have done this on my S3 and it has been outside naked in the weather for 2 years and hasn't leaked any oil.

You are correct about the new ones flaking chrome, it has happened on my 80" in a dry shed :mad:

Cheers Charlie

klonk

24th March 2014, 08:49 PM

Don't expect more from your powder coating than from the after market chromed balls. You just need to look at the powder coated bull bars to see that rust gets in and starts to lift the powder coating as the rust creeps under the paint. If the is a good cost advantage the you have less to lose with you experiment with powder coating.

a little concerned about the polished out the warn areas comment as I doubt that you could polish out more than minor surface discolourations, any wear you would need to consider building the material back up. Perhaps the seals have enough give to deal with the surface being less than spherical to a tolerance.

I don't understand people not wanting to chrome your swivel balls, they are familiar with having to fill rust pits etc. so don't know why they would be knocking business back.

Hi slug burner and Charlie

Thanks for your comments. Have thought about it abit, yes there are a couple of deep scratches which I will have to fill was going to use silver soldier but will have to be carefull of the heat and distortion so maybe the epoxy might stand up to the 200 deg C needed to cook the powder, will look into that.

The polishing really only took the chrome off, and I knocked the edges off the worn ring where the seal had been. When the chrome was removed the wear wasn't to bad, there are also a few scratches but the powder coating will fill them in. One good thing, is that the powder coating is thicker than the chrome (about half a millimetre thick) so that will help the seal do its job.

Slug burner I think not wanting to do small jobs might be caused by the mining boom and easy profits.

Cheers Steve

slug_burner

25th March 2014, 04:06 AM

Ack on the mining companies being big customers.

My exposure to chrome work is via bumper bars and if the panel beating could be done with a solder of some sort as a filler to get the smooth surface, they just need to electroplate copper and then the chrome.

Your just a little closer to the mining industry over west whereas I think down SE Aus probably not that much of an issue.

Will be interesting to see the outcome of your experiment. Just glad I haven't gone an got repo swivel balls if they are that bad where they flake while in the shed.

worane

25th March 2014, 09:38 AM

What a fantastic project and skills.
I was a boat builder and am a bit worried if you are using epoxy under any heat. Heat is epoxies enemy. It could cause it to fail.
Maybe a little research on that before you go ahead.
Regards, Nick.

klonk

25th March 2014, 10:42 PM

Cheers Guys
Yes found that epoxy is only good to 100 - 140 deg C , so tonight I run some silver solder into the groove. Silver solder has a higher melting point than soft solder used for electrical wiring but is lower than bronze welding ,which requires the steel to be heated to cheery red.
The housing was heated all over evenly then the area to be filled was heated untill the solder run, then the housing was put into some special crushed rock that holds the heat and slows the cooling process to allow the steel to normalise again. So now to file it up.
Photos , first is after a cleanup grind , second is finished , not going back to fix the pin hole!

chazza

26th March 2014, 08:48 PM

Nice work cobber!

The idea of using soft-solder is not a daft one either! :D

I will resort to that if my epoxy repair lets go - although I have heard from lots of people who have had success with it,

Cheers Charlie

klonk

21st April 2014, 11:47 PM

Picked up the swivel housings the other day, they have come up well, the minor scratching and rust pits have all been filled. so now only time and use will tell how good it is.

Have also assembled the rear diff, The diff carrier was worn, the cross shaft was loose in the housing and the small spider gears had worn into it as well so there was quite of backlash in the gears. luckily I had the two diffs out of the old 2a that I wrecked, the front one was like new, so I dismantled it and used the carrier in klonks housing with original crownwheel and pinion. I could have put the 2a one straight in but the diff housing looked out of place compared to the original. It was abit of a job to get the pinion height correct with out the special tooling, dismantled it three times to get the bearing blue printing correctly on the crownwheel teeth.

Last weekend I got some panelwork done. the rear of the tub looked like it had been hit with a shotgun, there were lots of screw and rivit holes as well as extra light holes to be filled.
Also am bogged with the drivers side front guard at the moment, it just wont do what I want it to do. The curve down the front of the inner panel isnt matching the shape of the outer one and every time it gets close the welds crack on the bolt flange and it goes out of shape, then when I repair the cracked flange it stuffs up the rest of the panel. Two steps forward one backwards.

This weekend a sparky mate came and wired up the shed.So now I have switched lights and three 15 amp power points to play with, better than the extention cord I had. Had to dig 5 meters of trench by hand, used muscles I didnt know I had. Now I have to fix the air/con in his Sandman ute, the statesman, his wifes statesman and the cruiser troopy, knew there was a catch.

Cheers Steve

klonk

27th April 2014, 11:43 PM

Well easter and anzac weekends are over I can come out of the shed now that most of the loopies and terrorists are leaving town. Its been a big week for the town, the weather and fishing was good as well.

A few more jobs done this week. Dissy overhaul done, had to replace the advance diaphram, opened up the crimp around the casing and cut down a diaphram I got off our local diesel injection place. It came off a diesel pump, not sure what type. Have cleaned up the petrol filter assembley, had to free up the tap and replace the tap seal.

Then I got into the box of allsorts, parts that Ive cleaned up in mollassis and coated in lanolin and put away. These were cleaned up in petrol, damage repaired etc and undercoated then painted black.
Now looking around the shed theres lots of finished and painted parts ready for assembly. I can tell its a LED globe at the end of the tunnel.

Cheers Steve

Cobber

5th May 2014, 11:33 AM

I've just caught onto this thread and I've gotta say it's coming along nicely, well done :cool:

dunno

26th May 2014, 12:35 AM

Well Steve I've just read through your entire post. My new computer now allows me to view all sorts of stuff.
Good to read your descriptions to go with the photos you showed me the other day. Your a man of many skills and are turning a basket case into a good restoration. Pity about not doing a correct steering box assembly given the amount of work you have done in other areas.

Cheers
Pete Dunstan

klonk

8th June 2014, 11:35 PM

Thought I hadnt done much on klonk lately but looking back on here there is abit to update.

The first is the radiator panel, electrolisis had eaten away the bottom edge so after repairing all the cracks I used sikaflex to glue on some 3mmx40 angle aluminium and then filler to build up the outside smooth again, then the radiator mount was glued back in, this was removed for repair, the horn had cracked a big hole out of it about 50mm diameter. Then the headlight buckets were cleaned up and painted and the chrome bits cleaned with rustbuster, bought them up nice.
Permalink 65 on the linked page shows a photo of the radiator mount removed for repair, sorry but I keep forgetting to take the camera down to my mates shed where I do the welding for a few before and after welding photos.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/135101-well-used-80called-klonk-4.html

The driveshafts were cleaned up and painted and two u joints fitted. The other two will be this week.

Have spent today stripping paint off the seatbox lids, gearbox cover and the tailgate. Also etched primed the radiator panel and outer front guards. Its a good check to see how the panelbeating skills are going. A bit of hi build primer should see them right.:p

klonk

8th June 2014, 11:42 PM

And a front guard.

Cheers Steve

klonk

18th August 2014, 11:09 PM

Crikey Ive fallen off the front page of the series one index its been a while since Ive done an update.
Good to see a few others posting here.

Well its been wet and windy here as well, not really shed weather at night so not much has been done.

First up Ive been dismantling a 88"S1 at the tip in the neighbouring town, poor ole girl had been in
the saltwater abit too often not much left of the chassis or bulkhead, managed to recover the 4 axel
shafts but the gearbox and diffs were worn out, victim of a holden motor.

Ive finished klonks leaf springs, the rears have two new main leaves and have made up new retainers
that hold the leaves together, also suspension bushes have been fitted to the springs and chassis. I
had to machine some of the bushes in the lathe at work to suit the 1 3/4" rear springs.Then they
were painted along with the shockies. The shockies are Munroes, the fronts are dated 7/61 and rears
7/52, they all still work fine.

Also made a start on the fuel tank repairs, the bottom has rusted out as usual, so cut out the bottom
but left a 10mm edge around the outside. Then took it to work and used the cutting torch on the oxy
set to melt the soldier and at the same time used compressed air to blow away the molten soldier.

When using this method please wear a full face visor and long sleeves etc to protect your self from
hot flying soldier and keep other people away from the area as well.

The folded edge then just lifted off. now too get another bottom bent up and soldered on.

This weekend Ive stipped the paint off the wheel rims and will soak them in mollassis to get rid of
the rust. Was going to get them sand blasted but the $300 and 6 weeks wait put me off.
The rims are from a S2a 5.5" ones, as Im going to fit 205 r 16 tyres which are better on the wider
rims so Im told.

Cheers Steve

107gus

22nd August 2014, 10:10 PM

The springs look good. Did you get that done locally?

klonk

25th August 2014, 06:57 PM

The springs look good. Did you get that done locally?

No Gus I had the 2 main (top) leaves of the rear ones made in Perth by westraila springs, they made them from the measurements I sent them, they did a good job and Danielle is excellent to deal with, knows her stuff.

The springs were derusted then I made new retainers that hold the leaves in place and assembled and painted them here. The front ones were just a clean up and paint.

Cheers steve

klonk

21st September 2014, 11:27 PM

This weekend Ive managed to finish the fuel tank, repaired the carby throttle housing shaft holes and have two wheel rims derusted and ready to paint.

To repair the tank bottom I bought an off cut of 1mm sheet steel, cut to size and marked it out and bent it over the edge of the workbench to fit, used the press at work to press in the dimple for the drain plug then bent over the side edges tinned the joints with solder and run two sticks of solder into the joints.
So now will glue the mount onto the fuel tank with sikaflex and use some PVC glue and primer to line the inside of the tank, just to be sure and then some paint.

The carbie housing was sleeved with K&S 11/32 brass tube, this has the
correct internal size for the butterfly shaft. Then I used a 11/32 drill on low speed in my drill press to drill the housing. The tube was a tight fit in the housing and was cut and trimmed once fitted. Its nice to know that my drill press is true to the table as the shaft fitted straight through rather snugly first time. The next issue with the carbie is the emulsion tube holder, it is broken and the air jet was missing, I have pulled it from the housing and I will turn up a new one in brass but will have to think about that one.

Cheers Steve

1950landy

22nd September 2014, 05:32 AM

Just found your thread , boy does it bring back memories of my restoration of my 1950 80" " Landy" 26 odd years ago. You are doing a top job. You will just have to watch the powder coating as it is porous so water can get through the paint & cause rust under the coating with out you knowing. The powder coaters can put a zinc primer under the pawder caoting to pervent this .

klonk

22nd September 2014, 07:41 PM

You will just have to watch the powder coating as it is porous so water can get through the paint & cause rust under the coating with out you knowing. The powder coaters can put a zinc primer under the pawder caoting to pervent this .

Thanks I didn't know about that, but I know he did put the zinc primer on . Was going to put gaters on them as well for protection.

Steve

klonk

6th October 2014, 12:37 AM

Well abit more done, Fuel tank mount glued on, PVC glue sealer put inside of the tank and the outside painted. Two wheel rims also undercoated and the others are half done in the mollassis. Second hand shackel bolts and plates were aquired from another 80'' owner in town

Today I spent time sorting out and wire brushing the various nuts and bolts needed to fit the axel housings back together, just waiting for hub parts. Then he will be ready to put back on his feet :p. But due to the lack of space in the shed I will leave that major event untill after I have rebuilt the gearbox and sorted the engine (repair the oil leaks and paint). So off to shake the money tree to get some parts.

Cheers Steve

Bundalene

26th October 2014, 07:06 AM

Hi Steve, I have just finished reading your post from the start to this point.

What an effort you have put in to date with more to come no doubt. I admire your 'Old School Craftsman' skills, not afraid to have a go at anything and trying to bring the '51' back to where it began. Thank you for the detailed explanation in so many areas.

I have been reading many S1 posts and am extremely thankful for the contributions of so many members with detailed explanations of individual overhauls, A classic example about which I have read from several members would be the vacuum advance of the dizzie, don't just look for a replacement, but rebuild it with available parts and understand it's workings.

We have only just started and it would be nice to achieve half of what you have done. When I first began I was focused on hard to get parts and not the whole job at hand which is the real challenge. I have since found that by getting stuck into things, networking amongst members and researching, things slowly fall into place, for example we have been lucky enough to pick up items such as horn / dipper switch from a Series1 Tragic and a PTO from a person who just happened to have one in his shed from when he removed it off his vehicle over 30 years ago. The PTO output was with the vehicle and the engaging switch came off a vehicle at a recent auction. Now for the PTO tailshaft (not important at this stage). I don't even have a full set of springs and hubs - could rob them off the '53' we have in the workshop, if it came to that, but we are trying to keep this complete.

There are so many others on this Forum giving us inspiration and the drive to get on with the project, getting ahead of myself at times. This will be a slow and careful, squeezing in a few hours on the project, here and there when time permits.

Erich

klonk

8th November 2014, 01:26 AM

Hi all,
Sorry I havent been here for awhile, its comming up to grain harvest time and Ive been busy repairing air/cons in various machinery on the weekends. At one stage I had 19 machines to do, only 5 left now.This is my weekend business,on top of my normal day job,then throw in a couple of weeknight jobs at a mates workshop, I dont need any rocking to sleep, just sitting down usually does it.

Erich
Thanks for you comments, this forum has certainly given me alot of help as well, reading your post your getting along rather well.

Have managed to get sometime in klonks shed though. Ive assembled the front diff and the front hubs. The diff took some time as I had mixed up the original pinion shims with some spare diffs ive got, so without the special tool to setup the pinion it was a case of trial and error to get the teeth markings right. The hubs have railco bushes installed and the powder coating is working well, nice and slippery with oil on them.
Also had fun with the diff housing, I sat the hub onto the housing in a vertical position and found it would rock side to side. Looking at it I found one side of the flange was together and the other had a 1/2 mm gap. After using straight edges to measure and check I found that the shoulder that locates the swivel housing and clamps the axel bearing was 20 thou thicker on one side than the other. This must have been from factory as one of the swivel housing flange was badly dished indicating that it had been pulled up tight on the bolts. It took alot of filing and bluing to get it right, but its all good now.

Cheers Steve

klonk

15th December 2014, 01:28 AM

Well awhile ago I mentioned that the was light at the end of the tunnel for klonks rebuild, well theres been a rock fall in the tunnel.

I had had the engine running for about a half hour before I started the strip down and it seemed to run not to bad, so had planed to remove the sump to clean the inside, replace other seals, gaskets etc and give it a paint job to spruce it up and run it, then overhaul it later on.

Well the sump was removed and lots of crud was found.The end result is photo one :o . Thought while I was there I would check the crank bearing clearances. I used plastiguage for this and the big ends had 4 thou clearance, but inspecting the crank I noticed a strange mark around all the big end journals, it felt like a step in the surface. So using a micrometer to measure I found there was a step of 1.5 thou from side to side(photo 2) and they are 3 thou out of round., but not in the place of normal wear for a crank. Having worked grinding crankshafts for 3 years I new it was a dodggy crank grind from the past. So it just got worse from there. Cam and followers buggerd, the first piston I pulled had a broken top ring that had gone out the top of the piston, the other 3 had broken rings. Also needs valve guides as well.

So the crank is ground to 40 thou all round and the block is 20 thou over,which is good as its the original engine for the car but maybe need another crank. I dont think there are 50 or 60 thou bearings for the 1600 motors.

So im abit depressed at the moment, thats every part of this car Ive had to repair. Was really looking forward to getting it on its feet soon. Oh well!

Cheers Steve

Pickles2

15th December 2014, 06:57 AM

I always enjoy this brilliant thread.
Your latest "development" could be a blessing in disguise. With the simply awesome job you have done with Klonk, you're now going to have the benefit of what will basically be a new engine, something in which you will be able to have complete confidence, & not have to worry, "what it's like", or how long it will last.
So, in the long run, I reckon you'll see this as a good thing.
Pickles.

Bundalene

15th December 2014, 10:16 AM

Hi Steve, I feel your pain, so near yet so far and a bunch more dollars you were probably not planning on.

Could you please talk us through the re-build process when you get there, I will more than likely be going down the same path with our engine and need all the help I can get.

Erich

NQSeriesRover

15th December 2014, 10:31 PM

Hi Steve,
if you dont find another crank then have a look into metal spray repair for the journals. we did this a lot in Brissie so if you need contacts just let me know. might have some bits here if you get stuck (pistons etc).

andy_d110

15th December 2014, 11:41 PM

klonk

16th December 2014, 12:44 AM

Thanks Andy, might take you up on that. I need to wash things up yet and will try mates around town.

Cheers Steve

komaterpillar

16th December 2014, 06:17 AM

I bet finding that slug with the missing part if ring was a wow moment O.O
Do you have a photo of the bore it came out of? Just curious, can't imagine it looking pretty :/

klonk

17th December 2014, 01:06 AM

Thanks komaterpillar

Havent got round to washing the block yet so just wiped out the bores. The marks arnt that wide but they are abit deeper than I would have liked .

The first photo is from no 4 cyl with the broken piston, the supprise one was no 3 cyl ,the mark down the bore was caused by the two broken ring pieces stuck in the ring groove of the piston (photo 2 and 3). When I pulled the piston out and saw the pieces I didnt think they would have caused any damage at all. I havent measured the bores yet. I will get our engine reconditioner to measure it with a cylinder guage to see what over size pistons are needed.

Photo 4 is the big end bearing, it breaks all the rules of engineering but was still working

Photo 5 an exaust cam follower, not ment to have the hollow in the middle.

NQseriesrover thanks for your offer will keep you in mind.

Cheers Steve

JDNSW

17th December 2014, 05:22 AM

Looking at the cam follower, one has to wonder how often the engine had the oil changed. But on the other hand, later versions of that engine design (e.g. the six) featured roller cam followers - and there had to be a reason why the new 2.25 design had roller followers from the start.

John

Bundalene

17th December 2014, 06:08 AM

russellrovers

17th December 2014, 07:29 AM

1950landy

17th December 2014, 12:40 PM

Do you know whether these engines can be sleeved? I suppose if it wasn't for that number stamped on the side of the block, you would be looking for another engine.

Are all the cam followers the same or just 1 off?

Thanks a lot for the photos

Erich
You need to have a talk with 123rover50 , keith knows all about them from when he did the motor on the Royal Landrover.:cool:
I think the cam followers are the same between the 1595 & 2L motors, I know the cams are , I used a spred bore 2L cam in my 1595 motor ,my old cam lobes had worn round but the cam followers were oK. I don't know how the motor run with the way the cam was.:confused:

klonk

19th December 2014, 02:24 AM

Erich. Yes all the followers are worn through the chrome not quite as bad as the photographed one but well past it. As John said I don't think the oil was changed very often, the sump was ugly, lots of grit and sludge thicker under the oil pump screen.

1950landy. Thanks might send Keith a PM , I have been watching his post. Klonk looks new compaired to what he started with.

Spent time after work today washing parts in the parts washer, head, cam,followers etc. I put the parts in the washer this morning and let them go round all day and gave them a good scrub up tonight. There are 4 blokes at work into speedway racing they were amazed at the size of the intake valves and ports in the head. Our apprentice was stumped,he couldn't work out how the engine worked with just one valve.:p

Cheers Steve

Tomo

19th December 2014, 09:46 AM

Our apprentice was stumped,he couldn't work out how the engine worked with just one valve.:p

Cheers Steve

Had a good laugh when I read the above.....

klonk

13th February 2015, 12:59 AM

Thought Id better give you an update of what has been happening in klonks shed , as its been awhile.

Yep that about covers it!

Too much work, sick of pushing spanners 7 days aweek and half the nights as well. 3 nights this week I got home at 10pm. Never mind summer will be over soon and no more A/C repairs to machinery.

However Ive started on a plan. Seeing as the engine is waiting for repair I have started to play with it abit. Starting with the cylinder head ports. Ports that size really need a pair of webbers attached :eek:. The carb fitted to klonk is off a 2 ltr motor so I thought that I may aswell make use of the extra 2 mm of choke size and increased air flow. So nothing scientific or calculated just a good old fashioned smooth up of the intake ports, an improved intake manifold and a custom built header to match the improved exaust ports. Easy!
Dont think Ill do any other mods maybe a balance job if there is any budget left after the overhaul.
So photos are of before and after the cleanup of the intake ports, abit more to go yet, but Im not going to make them bigger, just clean them up abit.

Cheers Steve

russellrovers

13th February 2015, 06:46 AM

Had a good laugh when I read the above.....
hi tomo parts on there way jim

klonk

12th April 2015, 11:37 PM

Finally got over the disappointment of the worn out engine, Id shut the shed door in disgust and walked away. Now the air/con work has slowed down and finally some spare time. Id ordered gearbox parts earlier in the year, so sent parts to the machine shop for repair and had everything back ready to put together.
The transferbox front housing had badly worn selector shaft holes so the machine shop put brass sleeves into the housing now they are nice and snug again.
The needle bearing spigot on the g/box main shaft was starting to go through the hardening as they do, so I machined it down on the lathe at work and pressed a hardened sleeve on from the bearing shop. the new sleeve is alot harder than the original.
Next was the lay shaft. The front nut was loose when I pulled it apart and so the sleeve and gears had worn badly, so machined the gear faces flat on the lathe and built up the end of the sleeve with the mig and machined it to size so everything was tightened with the nut again. I replaced the layshaft with a second hand one as well as the splines were worn.
The syncro hub was also checked and was useable, the three centering springs were replaced with some good second hand ones from a mates spares box and the syncro cones were lapped together with their mating gears using course valve grinding paste. If you have never done this trick before you need to. Before you do it take the syncro and gear, put them together and twist which you will probably be able to do. Then apply paste to the gears cone surface, sit the cones together and give them about six twists backwards and forwards, clean the paste off, put them back together and twist, now try and get them apart. no more gear crunches now.
Assembly went well, remembered to seal the outside of the bearing and seal holder in the back of the gearbox, otherwise gearbox oil ends up in the transfer box.
Transfer box was straight forward but needed to reshim the new speedo housing bearings.
Gearstick wasnt forgotten,I built up the ball on the bottom to get rid of most of the free travel and made up a new grub screw that goes in the slot to stop the stick from turning, nice and tight now.

Continued next post

klonk

13th April 2015, 12:12 AM

Continued from previous post.

To stop dirt and sand wearing out the transfer box selector shafts again I made up a dust seal to cover them. Its made from closed cell foam off an old trampoline edge mat. The 80'' transfer boxes dont have ''o''rings on the selector shafts to seal them like the later ones. Hope it works!

And just to prove I wasnt sitting around sulking about the engine, I did abit of paving to take my mind off it. Sometimes I wish Id gone fishing or to the pub instead and payed someone else to do it.
Had to use a crusher dust base and cement dust under each paver so they wont move when walked on due to having the gravel between them, which ment each paver had to be leveled and checked. Finished it off this weekend cutting the angles.

Cheers Steve

klonk

19th April 2015, 11:13 PM

Well this week I had to bite the bullet and take the leap. Time to start reassembling all the pieces. The shed was cleared. David my son and his mate Angus were called upon to help. Soon klonks chassis was dusted off and sitting on stands in the middle of the shed. Springs and shackles were fitted and axel housings sitting in place. After all the cutting and welding of the chassis everything slid into place nicely, only one front centerbolt needed abit of help to get into the hole. Next the ubolts were fitted and tightened and then front and rear diffs and axels were fitted along with the front hubs and brake plates.

To make room in the shed I fitted the bulkhead to get it out of the road along with the fuel tank. About that time I started to feel like a kid in a lollie shop, picking parts off the shelf and bolting it together. All the unseen work cleaning, painting and bagging of parts really payed off, especially the bolts.

Continued next post

klonk

19th April 2015, 11:59 PM

Continued from previous post.

While the serial no's were accessible budding artist daughter Catherine was called in to highlight the numbers.

Next was the brakes. On assembly I noticed that the drums had been machined oversize, so looks like Im going to have to get oversize linings fitted to the new shoes, its the cheaper option, unless I can find some second hand drums.
Today I made a start on the brake lines. Im using 3/16'' lines instead of 1/4'' due using later more common wheel cylinders. So made up the flex lines to the front wheels. The original joiners and fittings are used as I bought special adapter nuts for the end of each steel pipe. now just need to find a double flaring tool to finish them. Our brake shop charges $5 per flare to do them so its not too bad but there is 14 of them.

Best organise a wiring harness soon, then start fitting the bulkhead fixings etc. Lots to do now!

Cheers Steve

klonk

11th May 2015, 11:16 PM

More progress,

Brake lines are now complete and some fixtures on the bulkhead along with the steering box. The steering box is a recirculating ball one out of a S2a fitted by someone else, while the mount they made was pretty rough, the steering wheel is sitting in the same position as the original even though it has an inch longer steering column and the drop arm comes out of the bottom of the box instead of the top. This has been achieved by bending the drag link at the rear of the battery box to lower the tie rod end to suit the steering box. This link has been crack tested and no cracks found but the problem is that it interferes with the throttle linkage as per photo. I have shifted the drop arm one spline and it just clears. So will have to get some ball joints and set it all up to see how it looks.

Cheers Steve

klonk

11th May 2015, 11:21 PM

Can any one tell me please where these bolts go? I know they are drive shaft bolts but cant remember if they go in a special position.

Cheers Steve

JDNSW

12th May 2015, 05:12 AM

I don't recognise them, but the only drive shaft bolts that are at all special are the ones on the rear transfer case output flange that is also the mount for the hand brake drum.

John

brendanm

12th May 2015, 06:12 AM

I think John is on the right track as I reassembled mine( although an 86') initially with the springs on the wrong side of the hand brake pads and the rubbing when moving caused a noise. Looked fine when stationary. It only just hit the bolts on rotation. With the front bolt face angled like that the springs would clear the bolts no matter which side the springs went back on. Maybe it is an after production fix by someone learning like me.

B.S.F.

12th May 2015, 06:59 AM

Special bolts for fixing crownwheel to diff on early 80" ? What size are they, and how many have you got? .W.

1950landy

12th May 2015, 07:56 AM

Can any one tell me please where these bolts go? I know they are drive shaft bolts but cant remember if they go in a special position.

Cheers Steve

These bolts go in the tail shaft & are so the yokes dont hit on the bolt head when the uni is on its full angle:cool:

klonk

12th May 2015, 07:07 PM

Thanks guys,

Id put them in a bag I had with all the other driveshaft bolts, there are four of them. I guess they go in the rear diff flange as I haven't removed the d\shaft bolts from the transfer case output flange and the front driveshaft doesn't run on such a steep angle as the rear one.

LandyAndy

12th May 2015, 08:20 PM

Looking Good Steve.
Missed your posts on the brake lines,could have saved you some coins!!!!.
Let me know if you need to make more up.I have the proper flare tool kit and pipe bending tool if you want to borrow them.
Andrew

klonk

13th May 2015, 11:06 PM

Thanks Andy,

I did forget to mention that I borrowed a flaring tool from a work mate, so It didnt cost, well only a couple of beers, made the job a lot easier and neater.

Cheers Steve

klonk

20th July 2015, 12:51 AM

Been awhile since I been on the site.

My dad had a fall and broke his hip so we,ve had a few trips to Perth and Mandurah , but 4 weeks later he was home again and is doing well.

Well the ooky spooky bit.
When I got the call about dad it was Wednesday arvo he was in hospital and was as comfortable as it gets thanks to the drugs his operation was scheduled for Friday so I would go up Friday night, knock off at 4pm. My daughter Catherine wanted to go as well.
Work on Friday was busy and was under preassure so I could get away at 4pm, but I had this funny feeling about something all day but didnt think about it as you do when you are busy, but whats with the pig :confused:. Any way I got home about 5:15 pm. Threw some clothes in a bag, ditched the fluro work jumper and grabbed one off the shelf and put it on, I looked at it and saw it was a black one, um thats not good if we're stuck on the side of the road at night I thought. Too bad, in a hurry, we're off 5 hrs drive ahead. Catherine is on her "L's" so she did her first night drive. All was well and we changed over 2 1/2 hrs later. She had done Well. We turned off the Albany highway , through Boddington and into the forest. All of a sudden "PIG" Thud and instant whiteout as the airbags went off, a split second later a second bang crash. When the car stopped we bailed out, still on the road. Didnt see him comming, didnt even have time to hit the brakes. The car started and I got it off the road. Then went back up the road to clear the debris and see what happened to the pig. Catherine was ahead of me and made it to the pig first,lying in the middle of the road. She bold as brass walked up to it gave it a big kick and said rather loudly "Ya F***n Ba***rd ya wrecked our car". Thank goodness the pig didnt move, dead as. So I calmly suggested that it really wasnt the correct approach to a pig after an accident, not unless you can run fast. It was funny to see the penny drop,even in the dark.
We got a phone call out to family and waited for rescue. While sitting in the dark Catherine said You know dad,if you had'nt stopped for a leak when we turned off we'd have missed the pig. True but if you had driven at 100kph instead of 90kph we'd have missed the pig too, so the story was told about the days strange events, that pig's number was up and it was going to involve us, destiny!. Also came to realise that the second bang crash was the car returning to earth after being airborne, glad it was shiny side up still.
Several cars stopped one was a couple that live 4 km's along the road. So the next day I bought some fiberglass and repaired the radiator tank and drove it to their place for a couple of weeks till I got back to retrieve it with a mates little truck.
The insurance wrote it off and we've now replaced it with a better one. so all's well and Catherine learnt abit about car accidents. The only casualty apart from the pig was a graze or burn from the airbag on the very tip of Catherines nose. "The pigs revenge". :twisted: Click on the first photo, the black lump in the road side drain behind the car is the culprit.

Cheers Steve

PS yes Iv'e been working on klonk, A teaser photo

wrinklearthur

20th July 2015, 07:07 AM

What next? a pig boar-in to the radiator.
Glad you both came out okay.

crackers

20th July 2015, 04:20 PM

Glad to see the anti-pig warning lights on Klonk are working, pity you ignored them :angel:

Good to hear you're both okay - bit scary that the airbags just turned you into a passenger with no hope of controlling the vehicle. As you say, a good learning experience for your daughter too, though it's probably not in the requirements for her license. Enough of if buts and maybes, just glad you're both safe and one less feral pig is never a bad thing.

JayBoRover

20th July 2015, 08:44 PM

Wow! What a story. So glad both you and your daughter are okay ... no concern for the pig at all! I love the teaser of Klonk's dash:cool:.

Avion8

20th July 2015, 09:34 PM

Glad to hear that you are both OK, and as for your dash that looks great, mine looked like that a lot of the time even with the engine running, and why they ever chose a green light for low oil pressure defeats me, as in aircraft green is good, not a warning.

You must have lots of bacon now!:)

JDNSW

21st July 2015, 05:22 AM

........why they ever chose a green light for low oil pressure defeats me, as in aircraft green is good, not a warning.

You must have lots of bacon now!:)

Oil warning lights were only introduced around WW2 as low priced cars went to pressure lubrication, cars became dependent on batteries (change from magneto to coil ignition), and ways were sought to cut costs (warning lights being cheaper than gauges). Pressure gauges and ammeters were replaced with lights (although many cars retained ammeters, while gaining "ignition warning lights").

Charge lights, being the first introduced, initially to warn you that you had left the ignition on, and as with other warnings, were red. When oil warning lights were later introduced, they obviously could not be the same colour, and green was chosen, almost universally. (Some cars had little in the way of warning - for example, my first Citroen had as the only instruments, speedo, fuel gauge and lights for high beam, generator and hydraulic pressure. By contrast, my father's contemporary Simca had the same gauges, but warning lights for generator, high beam, oil pressure, handbrake, low fuel. Still very small numbers of lights compared to most cars today.

John

wollomi1962

21st July 2015, 08:54 AM

Great story in the making. Looking forward to the progress. Thanks for the photos. It will give other owners a bit of belief in what can be done. Cheers.

klonk

25th July 2015, 12:36 AM

Thanks guys,

Yep a waste of good bacon, just abit too tenderized. He was still there when I went back to get the car a fortnight later.

Well klonk is making good progress, Brake lines done, fuel lines done, new wiring installed, all shockabsorbers rebushed and fitted.
New tie rod ends were fitted and the steeringbox secured ,the linkage rehashed to set it up to work evenly in both directions without clashing with the throttle linkages.
The pedals and shafts fitted with new bushes.

The Wiring harness provided hours of entertainment, 12 individual pieces of wiring. But with the help of the wiring diagram and following the colours it wasnt too bad. The worst part is finding out where it fits on the vehicle.
I had an extra earth wire from the fuel tank included in the harness to prevent future problems there, indicators and a trailer plug were also included. It was abit too long out to the tail lights by a meter or so, so had to coil the harness up inside the chassis as I didnt want to cut and join it.

I had quite a few air leaks in the fuel system when I got it pumping fuel. The steel pipes I'd made were letting air in between the pipe and olive, so had to soldier them up, even found an air leak on the pickup pipe on the fuel tank (not mine) I wonder how many problems that one caused in the past.

So now only brake shoes to reline and gearbox mounts so the g/box can be sat in place.
So its about time I started to sort out some stuff with the engine. I was given the name of a man that has a spare 1600 he wants to sell, condition unknown.

Cheers Steve

klonk

25th July 2015, 12:43 AM

And more

JDNSW

25th July 2015, 05:02 AM

Looking very nice!

John

OnSafari

25th July 2015, 07:42 AM

Looking good, where did you source your wiring loom from?

crackers

25th July 2015, 10:51 AM

Looking good, where did you source your wiring loom from?

I'll second that question.
I was looking at the aussie mob's website last night and wondering about 'what extras' - turning indicators and trailer plug sprang to mind. What about a hazard switch for when you have to rescue Land Cruisers?

As for the rest of it. You do realise you're setting impossibly high standards there. I might have to make mine rough just so future readers won't be put off :angel: It is very inspiring though, keep them coming. :BigThumb:

LandyAndy

25th July 2015, 07:30 PM

Steve you have done an awesome job,got quite alot done since we saw Klonk.
Klonks old owner dropped in the other weekend,he is driving a brown isuzu powered County these days,blue/black personal plates.I saw it and exchanged waves last time I was in Albany,didnt realise it was Chris.
Andrew

klonk

27th July 2015, 12:48 AM

Hi Crackers, Onsafari

I got the harness from Autosparks in the Uk. They gave good service. If you are going to add odd ball extras into the loom, send emails with the details. Make sure you identify your vehicle and loom properly, its a cost to send it back, this applys to Aus and Uk companys.

I put in a extra earth wire to the fuel guage so it gets a proper earth and works reliably, wish Id done the same with the tail lights,the harness only supplies power to the lights and you have to make an earth through the body as normal, but Im abit concernd about the paint between panels etc that wont let it earth when Im done. There are some other ''pommy'' ways of doing things with the indicators, but it goes with the vehicle.

Cheers Steve

JDNSW

27th July 2015, 06:08 AM

klonk

27th July 2015, 07:42 PM

Thanks John,

That makes sence. I don't know where the rear lights earth. There were no earth wires supplied with the harness for them, and no instructions. I don't like the thought of the earth returning through the aluminium and steel causing electrolysis.

Thanks Steve

JDNSW

28th July 2015, 05:47 AM

The later Series have the earth bolted to the top of the RH outboard part of the rear cross member.

Current flow through bimetal joints, provided they are tight, will not cause electrolysis. 'Electrolysis' (galvanic corrosion) will happen at bimetallic joints if they are wet, regardless of any current flowing through the joint. This can be minimised by contact being minimised by paint or other insulator, and by the use of galvanised fasteners, as with the original ones (avoid stainless).

The original ones were actually Sherardised, a form of galvanising that allows a more accurate profile to be maintained than dip galvanising. Instead of dipping the clean item in molten zinc, they are packed in a sealed container with zinc dust, and heated to just below the melting point of zinc for several hours. The zinc forms an alloy with the surface of the steel, the depth depending on the time they are cooked.

Unfortunately, Sherardised fasteners are virtually unobtainable today - it is hard enough to find galvanised fasteners, even if you are prepared to go non-original and not use BSF ones.

John

andy_d110

28th July 2015, 12:51 PM

wrinklearthur

28th July 2015, 05:34 PM

The sheradised fasteners are available from the UK from a few suppliers. Info is available from the LRSOC.

Also they have a few articles detailing how members have sheradised bolts themselves. This would be ideal if you had the original fasteners to reuse and can give them a birthday.

Namrick Limited (http://www.namrick.co.uk/)

andy_d110

28th July 2015, 11:55 PM

Namrick Limited (http://www.namrick.co.uk/)

There's LR fasteners who do specific kits for Land Rovers.

http://www.landrover-parts.net

There's also Frank Mell who does S1 kits only through the LRSOC.

klonk

21st August 2015, 11:48 PM

Hi all,

Havent been around much lately, cold and wet getting out to the shed so not much done out there either, but have been busy looking for engine parts.

So far Ive found a camshaft which has a little wear but useable, a carbi body that has a good emulsion tube holder, and 2x 205r16 dunlop roadgripper tyres for $50 each. They were spare tyres from hiluxes and havent been used.

I decided to clean up the carbi body in some rustbuster, it did a good job, gave it a scrub with a fine stainless steel wire brush and a rinse in water and wow! so had to do the rest of the carbi (see photo) but now I think Ill have to bury it in the garden for awhile. Way too much bling for an old land rover.

So crankshaft bearings, pistons and cam followers to go.

Cheers Steve

crackers

22nd August 2015, 10:05 AM

That did do a good job, didn't it. People will be asking you how that new replacement carby works and you'll be able to say, 'just like the old one' :angel:

klonk

22nd September 2015, 12:38 AM

Well slow progress, Ive had to do a couple of reworks. The first was to modify the rear spring leaf clamps that Id made. I made them longer than standard on purpose to allow for some extra spring travel, but on assembly with the weight of the diff and housing hanging on them I noticed that the second leaf was rubbing the front spring mount, it had seperated too much, so had to redrill the bolt holes and shortened the left over. see photo, the near spring is reworked ,the back one shows the problem.The second issue was the stub axel brass bush on the front axel that Id replaced. Thanks to John (JDNSW) in another post I found that I didnt allow enough clearance between axel and bush, they need 020 - 030 thou clearance, not the 005 thou Id allowed. So these were removed and machined again. Should have read the green bible! Could have been nastie if they had seized. Been making up the springs for the foot pedals, took awhile to find something the correct size and strength and then make them fit. Also got back into panel beating mode on the rear tub, a very time consuming job. Cheers Steve PS Sorry for the weird post Ive had computer issues, seems its still not right. I cant post the photos and I cant make the text do what its told.

crackers

22nd September 2015, 09:04 PM

It's either annoying or satisfying to redo stuff isn't it. Sometimes you're annoyed you screwed up, others it feels good to get something right.

klonk

5th October 2015, 09:54 PM

Well Ive commandeered one of the kids laptop,as my old clunker computer hasnt been fixed or replaced. Ive spent too much on klonk lately. So I get the handme down computers as ''you'' dont need anything as good as we've got to look at old land rover stuff on the internet! So I can make do with an old computer as long as I get land rover parts.

So back to the photos I didnt get to post. The first is the leaf springs I had to rework, I made the leaf clamps too long and this left all the hanging weight of the axel on the top leaf only.

The second and third are the brake springs I made up. I think I have them in the correct places, looking in the parts book its hard to tell if the brake switch one goes in the arm or in the little plate. opinions please.

The rest is the tub panelbeating in progress, this corner was badly bent inwards as someone had reversed into something. The floor took abit to get straight, it was badly bent and all the struts underneath were bent and broken and the floor was sitting on the chassis and the middle below that.

crackers

5th October 2015, 10:09 PM

Regarding your pedal set up, I thought I'd be able to answer your question simply by showing you a photo of Wombat's before I pulled them apart... only I appear to have a different setup. My pedals are all on the outside of the chassis rail whereas yours seem to be on the inside. Of course, yours is a 51 where mine is a 56.

klonk

5th October 2015, 10:25 PM

The rest of the tub. Cleaned up with stainless steelwire brushes, soap,water and elbow grease. one with coarse bristles one with fine.

A little surprise I found in the drivers side door that had broken door latch mount, I dont know how they got the last steel bit in there but I cant get it out without drilling out the spot welds on the frame, thought it was abit heavy on one end.

Cheers Steve

LandyAndy

14th October 2015, 06:15 PM

You are doing an excellent job Steve.Looking forward to getting a ride around Albania in the finished job;);););););)
Andrew

klonk

18th October 2015, 11:50 PM

Well planed to have green paint on the tub this weekend but due to a 50th birthday party and the weather and I needed to tidy up some of the spot welds that had some bog in them, I missed. So will be ready for next weekend.

During the week I had a parcel turn up, I think the best part is opening the old packaging.

Cheers Steve

LandyAndy

19th October 2015, 09:15 PM

Your 50th Steve?????
If so you olde bastard:p:p:p:p:p:p
Im not that far behind,next august:):):):)
Andrew

Bundalene

21st October 2015, 06:15 PM

[quote=klonk;2431661]

The second and third are the brake springs I made up. I think I have them in the correct places, looking in the parts book its hard to tell if the brake switch one goes in the arm or in the little plate. opinions please.

I scraped a kilo if crud off this one ( a 1951 model) to get this pic - hope it helps

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/418.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/paKQ5bHtj)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/419.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/hlrSBZV6j)

Erich

klonk

22nd October 2015, 12:54 AM

Erich ,
good photos thanks. I made the little quadrant spring mount , I knew there were two types but didn't know which one to make.

Andy

Sorry not me, your five years too late but August is a good month.

Cheers Steve

Bundalene

22nd October 2015, 06:59 AM

Well slow progress, Ive had to do a couple of reworks.
Thanks to John (JDNSW) in another post I found that I didnt allow enough clearance between axel and bush, they need 020 - 030 thou clearance, not the 005 thou Id allowed. So these were removed and machined again. Should have read the green bible! Could have been nastie if they had seized.

I have been going through posts at night and came across this. Did you know that these bushes are available off the shelf from bearing companies for a few dollars, with the correct OD, saves machining one dimension,

left bush is original
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/406.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/p8qSMLcrj)

Erich

klonk

24th October 2015, 06:07 PM

I have been going through posts at night and came across this. Did you know that these bushes are available off the shelf from bearing companies for a few dollars, with the correct OD, saves machining one dimension,

Erich

Yes Eric that is what I used, 20 or 30 thou is not a normal amount of clearance in a bush,I thought the old bushes were worn out, but maybe they weren't.

Cheers Steve

klonk

4th November 2015, 01:15 AM

Well finally after 2 weeks of drizzelly rain, the weather was good enough to paint on Sunday.

So got set up and started on the small pieces first to get in practice before doing the tub.

Its a relief to have that done. It took hours to repair the cracks and straighten it.

Its good to walk into the shed and smell the new paint.

Cheers Steve

LandyAndy

8th November 2015, 06:20 PM

Awesome Steve.
I bet you are itching to put him back together again.
ENJOY
Andrew

LandyAndy

15th November 2015, 09:57 PM

Hey Steve.
You didnt have Klonk ready in time,you could have ran Charles and Cammila around town:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew

klonk

7th December 2015, 12:31 AM

Hey Steve.
You didnt have Klonk ready in time,you could have ran Charles and Cammila around town:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew

Thanks Andy,

They didnt give me much notice, so had to knock them back.;)

klonk

7th December 2015, 01:37 AM

Harvest time is here so have been busy doing air/cons at the weekends, but have been getting limited time on klonk.

Had to sort out another rework. I found the steering linkage was hitting the L/H front spring on full steering lock, found that the front springs were not from an 80'' but from an 86'' or 88'' and the later vehicles have the leaf clamps in a different position than an 80'', so had to remove the spring and dismantle it and refit the clamp to the next leaf up the pack to move it forward.

Brakes have been sorted. Oversize shoes with nice soft linings, supplied by our local brake shop have been fitted and the system bled. I had trouble getting a good pedal so had to adjust the screws in the backplate to get the shoes square on the drums and tighten a couple of leaking brake pipe fittings and it all came up good.

Have been playing with indicator lights. I didnt want to cut holes in the panels so decided to mount lights on brackets but had trouble finding surface mount lights. Found some LEDs on ebay but when they arrived found them to be amber reflectors with LEDs and they didnt look right. So bought some defender indicator lens and managed to fit the LEDs into them, so am happy with the look now.

Gearbox now fitted with driveshafts etc connected, and am working on the rear wiring. Im not happy to earth the lights through the body work so Ive run a separate earth wire for them through to the gearbox earth connection as no earth connections were in the wiring harness. Also going to do the same for the head lights.

Cheers for now Steve

LandyAndy

8th December 2015, 08:05 PM

Klonks looking a million bucks Steve.
Well done.
I doubt we will be down over Xmas/New Year,left booking too late.A few people Ive spoken too say bookings are way up.Perhaps terrorists and volcanic ash are to blame:(:(:(:(:(
Andrew

klonk

28th December 2015, 01:39 AM

Beauty time off, so time for land rovers.

The wiring has been finished and the earths run up to the gearbox earth strap and the headlights have been earthed to the battery earth wire where it connects to the chassis. The radiator has been bolted to the front panel so it is complete now.

Today I finished the struts under the rear tub, they were all bent and broken. bunnings had the correct size L shaped aluminium so they were cut to length, the broken strengthening brackets around the spare wheel holder were trimmed up and new parts glued and poprivited in and a coat of jam to hide the sikaflex glue.

The last photo is a presant my wife bought me. It should really make klonk fly. It is fun to fly though. My first electric foamy.The hand to eye co-ordenation isnt what it used to be.

klonk

14th March 2016, 12:22 AM

Hi guys,

Its been awhile, not many changes to klonk but things are progressing.

First Ive managed to pick up another engine. Its worn out but has standard bores and crank, so thats good I will use the crank in klonks original engine block.The engine was here in town and is only 400 serial no's earlier than klonks.

I found some tyres for the front wheels and finally pushed it out of the shed for the first time on its own feet but found a couple of problems. First was the drivers side rear spring, it was 1/2''lower than the passenger side. So it was removed and adjusted and now sits 3/4'' higher than the passengers one.
I had noticed a Brake fluid leak on right front wheel, found it comming from the new wheel cylinder. When I dismantled it I found it was missing the steel cup that holds the spring between the pistons, luckly I had the old cylinders and used one from them.

The rear indicators have been fitted. I couldnt find any flush mount indicators that didnt require large holes cut into the panels. I found some LEDs on Ebay and they fitted into the defender indicator lens then made up some brackets that come off the tub mounts.

Next is the seat box. It had been cut in half and I think it came from another car, things didnt line up properly. I looked at two other seat boxes and both had been cut the same. Must have been a local modification. It was raining this weekend so it didnt get painted.

Currently rebuilding the carby. I got new gaskets and diaphrams from classic carbs, they fit well.

Have dismantled the windscreen and removed the glass and got the rest of the cappings and fittings ready to be galvanised when I get them up to Perth.

Cheers Steve

klonk

14th March 2016, 12:27 AM

And the important pic's

klonk

27th June 2016, 11:39 PM

Well been awhile since Ive done an update. Progress has been slow due to lack of finances and motivation. For the last 8 weeks we've been under the threat of redundancies at work and have been on reduced hours. Lucky a couple of blokes found other work and things have settled and we are back to normal hours and have other work outside of the mining that has picked up. So dodged that bullet.

So the seatbox and floor is in place loosely. Had to make the gearbox inspection cover, as it was missing when I bought it. The left front guard has been repaired, panelbeaten and undercoated and is now bolted in position with the bonnet also installed, so its now starting to look like a car again.

The front guard took alot of work. The inner guard had broken where it bolts to the radiator panel, I tried to weld it up but made a big hash of it, so after throwing it in shed I decided to take it apart at the seams and repair each panel seperately. So I drilled the spot welds that hold the inner panel and the top panel together from underneath without cutting through the second sheet, when it was ready to put back together I glued it back together with 252 sikaflex. From the top you cant tell its been apart. A straight edge was the best lie detecter for checking how the panel was comming along. It started with welding and lots of buckels, flattening with a wooden dolly and slapper spoon, shrinking and more flattening, then picking a few small dents etc gently with a panel hammer abit more flattening and finally using fingers to shift spots up or down to the straight edge. Final result was only a skim coat of bog to fill hammer marks etc and a few low spots and three coats of filler primer sanded back to level anything small. To check the final result water was misted over the panel and the shine of the water gave a shine as paint would look so you could check the reflections to see how straight it was.

The bonnet had its issues, it was 3/4'' off center and looked terrible at the radiator panel. so the hinge holes were welded up and redrilled and the hinges adjusted (bent) to bolt backup again.
Now to start the r/h side, its in worse condition.

Cheers Steve

klonk

27th June 2016, 11:41 PM

And a couple more

JDNSW

28th June 2016, 06:16 AM

I have a feeling this is going to end up with straighter panels than it had when new!

John

komaterpillar

28th June 2016, 08:24 PM

Maaaate that is looking real nice

klonk

29th June 2016, 12:52 AM

I have a feeling this is going to end up with straighter panels than it had when new!

John

Yes John I know , it was hard to decide what to do with the panels too good to be bad and too bad to be left, so if I've got to fix it make a proper job of it. I've left some evidance of the past in the tub, tailgate, toolbox . The grab rail and the steering column bracket won't be getting regalved.
I've got to do the doors next, there will be less work to make new ones than repair the old ones.

Cheers Steve

1950landy

29th June 2016, 07:04 AM

O my 80" I cut 25mm x 2mm alum flat bar to use as backing under the guards & at the rear where the guard bolts to the firewall. :o Stoped the guards flapping & stoped the cracking of the inner guard panel from flexing . You don't know there unless you look for them.:D

klonk

15th August 2016, 12:23 AM

Well not much to show but the tailgate is finally done. It had cracks in every corner, two tears where something had tried to escape and a strengthening bracket that someone made to stop the bottom edge of it from bending when it was down, it was bolted on buy eight 1/4'' bolts through the frame and tailgate. So The spot welds were drilled and the frame removed. everything welded up, streightened and reassembled and finally undercoated. I am not going to undercoat the inside of the tailgate, but it will be painted green. Hopefully with use the paint will wear off quicker as it wont be stuck as well, giving it the used look. Ive done this to the tub floor as well.

Also made up the front indicator light brackets and have started working on the r/h front guard but this is not going well. the weld just wont flow and stick properly,the aluminium must be dirty even though Ive cleaned it using the usual methods.

Still progressing but slow.

Cheers Steve

klonk

5th September 2016, 12:12 AM

Well not much to report. R/h front guard is taking shape but need a can of motivation to finish it. Just cant get in the mood.
Have been getting engine parts from England, Friday the camfollowers returned from Cox and turner. They machine and fit Stellite pads to the follower surface that runs on the cam, these dont wear through as the original chrome ones do and ruin the cam. They did a nice job.
Also have a set of .010 under crankshaft bearings and a set of inlet valves. So now I have everything to start the engine machining.

Today I fitted the bonnet rest strip to the top of the radiator panel. I couldnt get the brass rivits that hold it on so i made some imitation ones from brass screws. I put them it the cordless drill and spun them while using the side of the grindstone on the bench grinder to remove the head and slot of the screw, then polished it on the wire wheel. We'll see how many rivet counters pick that up.

Cheers Steve

bbart

5th September 2016, 09:03 PM

Those 'rivets' look great!

1950landy

6th September 2016, 05:12 AM

I have a couple of hundered of the rivets , the ones I have are chrome plated but

LandyAndy

26th September 2016, 07:39 PM

Steve its been a whilst since I visited Klonks thread.You are working wonders,well done.
I'm sure you will find motivation once the weather warms and the job situation improves.
GOODLUCK
Andrew

Mustlust

1st October 2016, 12:41 PM

Hi Steve,
I'm impressed with your tailgate and motivated to have a go at mine now. I also have tears in each corner and busted spot welds.
When you welded it back together, did you weld ALL along the frame to join it to the gate panel? Is this how people overcome the spot weld issue?
Also, did you reinforce the corners with Ali angle at all?
Keen, to heard your tips on this.
Thinking that I need a new welder and may need to spend some time developing a careful touch on a MIG.
Cheers,
Phillip

chazza

2nd October 2016, 08:30 AM

Thinking that I need a new welder and may need to spend some time developing a careful touch on a MIG.
Cheers,
Phillip

Phillip I wouldn't recommend a MIG for those sort of repairs. Use an oxy or a TIG for the small fiddly repairs.

Is it worthwhile to make a new tailgate? That is what I shall do for mine and I will probably glue it using Sikaflex and make some dummy spot-weld marks,

Cheers Charlie

Mustlust

2nd October 2016, 02:34 PM

Thx Charlie,
I'm gradually getting a handle on the different welding types and have concluded that for this job I am better sourcing a tig welder that has relevant experience.
Looking at the tailgate, I think that once the tears are welded, sikaflex will bond well enough where the spot welds ave failed.
Good luck with yours.
P

series1buff

2nd October 2016, 04:07 PM

This may be of use

I made a tailgate , its held together with liquid nails mostly :o

The trick is to rub some sandpaper on the ally and wipe off with metho , this gives a rough finish for the liquid nails to adhere to .

I made the corner sections using a home made folder and dies.

The 3 rope tags are held on with counter sunk rivets , I made new tags .

klonk

3rd October 2016, 12:47 AM

Sorry guys, Im slipping.

Philip
Yes like Charlie said, I use oxy to weld with, the English people refer to this type of welding as puddling aluiminium, describes it to a tee. It can be frustrating sometimes.
I drilled the spotwelds with a flat ground drill bit the same size as the spotwelds, it only cuts one layer at a time so dont drill right through. Every thing was straightened and repaired. I welded the corners of the tailgate that were just folded but didnt put anything else in there. Then made the 90 deg plates that go to join the frame in the corners, these were pop rivited in as I glued the frame into the tailgate.
I used sikaflex 525 this the body adhesive used on buses,trucks etc. Available at most hardware shops, keep it warm when using, its hard to push out of the tube otherwise.
The dummy spotwelds were made using a pin punch with the corners rounded off and using a steel bar dolly behind.
There's roughly 20 hrs work, but I have retained the character and history of this important work surface and may or may not have anything to do with the memory's of land rovers and girlfriends of past;). Ah thats why it took so long to do.

Series 1 buff
I have glued the gunnel rubber around our 15ft boat with no more nails,4 years ago, despite numerous attempts at knocking the jetty's over I've not succeeded in loosening the rubber.

Cheers Steve

klonk

3rd October 2016, 01:02 AM

Forgot,

Have been working on the drivers side inner guard, Made up a cover around the steering box.

mick88

4th October 2016, 07:16 AM

Have you considered spot welding it again alongside the old spot welds.
There are some pretty reasonably priced spot welding machines available on eBay and the like nowadays. Obviously not as cheap as sikaflex or the likes, but still ok prices.

Cheers, Mick.

Thx Charlie,
I'm gradually getting a handle on the different welding types and have concluded that for this job I am better sourcing a tig welder that has relevant experience.
Looking at the tailgate, I think that once the tears are welded, sikaflex will bond well enough where the spot welds ave failed.
Good luck with yours.
P

Cobber

5th October 2016, 08:04 PM

Steve its been a whilst since I visited Klonks thread.You are working wonders,well done.
GOODLUCKlikewise, I haven't caught the thread for a while but its coming along nicely, great job :BigThumb:

NQSeriesRover

6th October 2016, 08:51 PM

Hi Klonk,

are you able to scan and post the image of your Crunchy Nut template mate? Nice work....

Forgot,

Have been working on the drivers side inner guard, Made up a cover around the steering box.

klonk

6th October 2016, 09:01 PM

Have you considered spot welding it again alongside the old spot welds.
There are some pretty reasonably priced spot welding machines available on eBay and the like nowadays. Obviously not as cheap as sikaflex or the likes, but still ok prices.

Cheers, Mick.

Thanks Mick,
Had a look on eBay, never even thought to look at them just thought they would be too expensive. None of our sheet metal people in town have one, maybe migs and tigs have have rendered them obsolete.

Cheers Steve

klonk

6th October 2016, 09:18 PM

Hi Klonk,

are you able to scan and post the image of your Crunchy Nut template mate? Nice work....

No problems. But I'm not sure it will be of use to you as the steering box is a S2a recirculating one that was fitted before I bought it, so is not standard for an 80" landy. Will have to do it from work tomorrow, it's too big for our home scanner.

Cheers Steve

klonk

31st October 2016, 12:52 AM

Hi Klonk,

are you able to scan and post the image of your Crunchy Nut template mate? Nice work....

NQSeriesRover
Didnt quite get it all in. hope you can save the PDF from here, if not I will send you a PM.Sorry it took awhile.

Well not much seen to be achieved, just been pulling my hair out over the front guard, have made progress but still not happy yet 95% done. I need to alter the front curve on the guard but only the inner side, it has pulled with all the welding and shrinking done.
Made up and fitted some mudflaps. We replaced some conveyor belts on a rock crusher at work and the belt people hot spliced the belt together, so they cut the belt overlap in half on each end and vulcanize it together so the join is the same thickness as the rest of the belt. The off cuts are about 6mm thick and contain the fabric reinforcing, so there will be some damage if I tear them off.
This weekend I took a couple of days off and went up to Perth. I took all the galvanised parts to be redone, well not quite all, I forgot the bumper:angry:.
Managed to catch up with the Godfather of 80" landys in Perth and was lucky enough to look over a couple of 48s one restored,one being rebuilt.
I now have an oil pump to replace my broken one and a few other bits and pieces that werent right on the engine. Also alot of info on where to get bits and pieces and who does what around Perth. So it was a good tyre kicking weekend was had.

Cheers Steve

klonk

13th December 2016, 01:46 AM

At last, finally beaten the front guard. Knocked it into shape and got it sitting in place. What an epic saga that was! I havent done any other jobs so I didnt get side tracked and put the difficult job aside. (mind games)
It wasnt right when I bought it as the bonnet near the firewall had rubbed half way through the top of the guard. I split the guard into three pieces by drilling the spot welds and repairing the damage. Then I bolted each piece in its and place on the vehicle then marked where they overlaped, modified and screwed them together so I could glue them together in the same place later.
Its sitting quite well but it still not as good as the other side.
I was glad to have a cleanup in the shed at the weekend and get rid of the sanding dust covering everything.

The parts are back from the galvanisers, most came up well but I think Ill send the tub front capping strip back when I get the bumper done, it isnt very good, has a very rough finish. The cappings are just sitting on the tub just for now.

Next in line is the engine so need to get a few things organised before that.

Cheers Steve

klonk

2nd January 2017, 01:55 AM

Happy new year to everyone, hope father Christmas payed you a visit.

The weather here over Christmas was just nice for painting so the tailgate,bonnet and front guards
got their top coat. My spray booth was readied, ( old bbq table and a couple of milk crates washed off
and the sprinkler turned on to settle the dust in the yard). I started about 7am to beat the heat and
the bugs.I got one bug on each panel, my daughter came to the rescue with a pair of eyebrow tweezers
and picked them off without causing much disturbance, and then into the shed out of harms way to set.
For the next couple of days I put them out in the sun to harden. Then they were hard enough to handle so I
assembled the guards and fitted the furniture onto the bonnet and sat it in place.
Boy was I finally glad to see it finished.
Also made up the hinge pins for the toolbox lids and the latches. Used an old engine pushrod to mould
the head of the rivet and bought some door hinges that had removable pins that fitted the lid hinges
under the seats. Also pop rivited the cappings onto the tub, need to get the solid ones to finish them.
Today we pushed klonk out of the shed for the photo session. All the sanding dust was washed off him
and the shed got a cleanup. Now ready for the new year and a fresh set of jobs. The soft top frame is
next. Father Christmas delivered the new soft top 2 days before christmas.

Cheers Steve

klonk

2nd January 2017, 01:59 AM

And the tailgate

Dinty

2nd January 2017, 06:58 AM

Steve your spray booth is not as good as mine I have a carpet of 'grass' to work on, bugs/flying insects are a pain, one landed on the tailgate of my S1 when I painted it, the mark it left is still there it is shaped liked a ?, an "OMEN" so I was left wondering if I was doing it right, your little 'Klonk' is starting to look realy neat mate, great effort, cheers Dennis :)

Pickles2

2nd January 2017, 07:43 AM

Wow, Mr Klonk,...Have a look at this thread post 3?....a bit of a difference!!
TOP work by you.
Pickles.

Gordie

2nd January 2017, 08:56 AM

Mr Pickles is right, looking back at post #3, what an amazing rescue, well done Mr Klonk. Love your work.

NQSeriesRover

16th January 2017, 09:56 PM

Thanks heaps Steve, much appreciated. will work well as i'm going to use it on my '57 88" not the 80":)

harry

17th January 2017, 05:13 PM

great to see the progress, especially the reminders of post three.
I bet you didn't think you would be doing this for over five years!
looking great!

klonk

19th January 2017, 10:50 PM

I bet you didn't think you would be doing this for over five years!
looking great!

Ha Harry your right. I told the blokes at work ,that in a couple of years and I'll be able to take the kids for a ride in the back of it. Now they are saying that I'll be able to take the grandkids as well :o.

klonk

31st January 2017, 12:48 AM

Well the last couple of weeks Ive completed the soft top frame and now have the canvas on.
I had a hoop to copy and worked out the side supports by trial and error to get a good fit between the windscreen frame and the door tops. At work I used a hand operated pipe bender to bend the hoops and a 100 ton press to squash the tube ends on the side tubes.
Next is to repair the ventilator flap under the windscreen. It has broken studs that clamp the flap closed.

Cheers Steve

klonk

28th March 2017, 01:29 AM

Well have been held up abit waiting for some helicoils to repair a couple of stripped threads in the engine block. So have Sorted a couple of little jobs. The first was to repair the ventilator. The studs that hold the clamps were broken , so I made some threaded plates to replace the broken ones and screwed some new studs in.

Next I got the indicators working properly, the flasher unit Id bought needed load resistors to make it work as I used LED lamps but I wasnt happy to do that because I had run a small 4 core wire through the windscreen frame up to the switch in the center and to the pilot light. So I found a flasher unit that works LEDs on modern cars and had to adapt the wiring circuit and harness to suit. This flasher unit needed two pilot lamps, left and right which I couldnt do, so after some thought I used a diode off each side circuit onto the pilot lamp feed and it worked well.

Next job was to make a new grill badge as Im missing one. I wanted to put Klonks name some how on him. I thought about the usual number plates but didnt like that and vinyl lettering but didnt know where to put it, but had a eureka moment while thinking about the front grill badge. I have a mate who uses white metal ,so can pour a new one in a sand casting. So a mold was made and hopefully this weekend, poured.

The helicoils finally turned up and the hole repairs done,but not that easy for one hole. Someone in the past had stuffed it up by trying to drill out the broken stud but had wandered off the bolt into the block and then taped the crooked hole leaving half the broken stud . This was repaired by making a cast iron plug, which was screwed into a theaded oversized hole, then the correct size hole redrilled and the helicoil fitted because I just broke through the side of the plug so strenghtening the repair.

continued

klonk

28th March 2017, 01:35 AM

The rest of the thread repairs.

klonk

28th March 2017, 01:57 AM

The sand casting and mold, google was a big help with this. Will paint it the same colours as the land rover one.

And the dummy engine oil filter I turned up. I stole that idea from the Uk series One club which make and sell them , But the exchange rate and cost of freight made it too expensive. Lucky work has a nice lathe. The filter is a fleetguard LF3614. I chose this one because it filters down to 20 microns, a normal engine filter only goes down to 40 microns. It needs to filter smaller particles as its job is a bypass filter and is not a fullflow one as per normal. The filter is on the small side but At $5.00 each ,its cheap to replace.

Cheers Steve

123rover50

28th March 2017, 06:21 AM

Nice work Steve.
I was thinking of making a filter housing up too. I put a NOS one on the Tickford when I built it and its still there. I am not putting many miles up though.
Did you make a end cover for the bottom?
Keith

1950landy

28th March 2017, 04:06 PM

121125121127 I bought mine from the S1 Club UK , it takes a Ford Focus spin on filter. It cost just under $200 delivered but I had sold a genuine Rover bypass filter with the Rover transfer on the side on Ebay for the same sort of money, I had bought it & 2 other AC filters at a swap meet for $40 about 10 years ago so I recon it didn't cost me anything. I had fitted one of the AC on Landy & the other on my P3 Rover.[biggrin]

klonk

28th March 2017, 08:20 PM

Thanks Keith,
no I didn't think of doing a bottom cover , that would be abit flash for an old work horse.

200mm length of aluminium 100mm dia cost $70 ,$10 for a couple of fittings and $5 for the filter plus about 3 hrs work. Drilling the oil holes was fun, centre one was fine in the lathe but the off centre one was done in the drillpress. Its jobs like this were you find out how true the drillpress is. The drill is a 6mm , 150 long and so is the filter housing. I started at the bottom to make sure the hole was inside the filter oring and it came out the top 4 mm away from the mark.

1950 landy,
thanks for the photos. I wasn't sure how close to the chassis it came, glad I didn't choose the bigger filter I was looking at.

Cheers Steve

LandyAndy

28th March 2017, 09:02 PM

klonk

30th March 2017, 01:00 AM

Like your work Steve.
Get your mate to have another crack at Klonks name plate.To me it looks too much like Tonka font.See if you can match the original badge font,that will really impress me.
Not looking good for an Easter holiday in Albania,coins a bit short just now,plus I just found out the boss will be away for 3 weeks,and I will be on call,not happy:bat::bat::bat::bat::bat:
Andrew

Hi Andy,

Thanks for that, thought It looked familiar but just couldn't put my finger on it. Unfortunately I didn't have much choice in 3d letter stickers here in town, that was the best option. Don't know of any 3d printers about town.

Shame you can't get down at Easter, there's acres from salmon about. Can't help with accomodation either at the moment, our spare room is taken by an exchange student for the next couple of months.

Cheers Steve

LandyAndy

30th March 2017, 10:25 PM

klonk

2nd April 2017, 10:55 PM

Send a pm to Chris,(cjc_td5).
He has a 3D printer,he just made up some glare shields at a very cheap price for D4 owners.Im sure he could print up a 3D Klonk badge for the front and back.You need to paint the finished product as its not UV stable.Our glare shields are awesome.
Introducing "LANCE" (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/204873-introducing-lance-7.html)
Andrew

Oh no no no no no :no2: a plastic badge :o what next, plastic grills, plastic dashes with blow up cushions in case you crash. That would be the thin edge of the wedge if you ask me.
But it would make a good mold for a sand cast metal one.

cheers Steve

chazza

3rd April 2017, 06:59 AM

If you need one cast, just let me know,

Cheers Charlie

klonk

28th May 2017, 12:53 AM

Lots has happened in klonks shed. Unfortunately its one step forward and six backwards, I hate reworks. Everything that contained fluid seemed to be leaking.
Front and rear diff gaskets were leaking and also found the new brake cylinders were leaking, all four of them, when I removed the axels. The gearbox had three leaks, along the front output splines, transfer box cover and a mystery one between the gearbox and tranferbox which turned out to be the reverse idler shaft leaking. The gasket doesnt seal over the hole properly due to the transferbox casting not being quite big enough. Should be a warranty claim I recon.

So everything has been apart and back together again, but this time everything is permanently bolted up and all the small jobs done like the tow bar and trailer plug mounting, reflectors and seatbox fitted.

Ive made a start on the engine, the cylinder head is finished and the crank has been sent for grinding, but the bigends were worn more than I thought so now I have to find another set of shells so I know what size to grind it to.

So while waiting for things to happen Ive done some tinkering with the cylinder head. It got treated to a port and polish. Old habits die hard, couldnt help myself.

I made a manometer to measure the pressure drop through the head using a vacuum cleaner for airflow. The testing was done with the valve open 1.5mm,3mm and 6mm. After the mods there was 20% drop in the vacuum readings at all valve openings. So hope this will make some improvements in power without doing too much else to it . Just need to sort out the exaust system next.

Cheers Steve

klonk

13th August 2017, 11:20 PM

Been a while since Ive done an update.
Klonk has been on the back burner abit this year. Daughter is in Perth at uni having trouble finding work , son is doing a school trip to Vietnam, So money is going every where except klonks shed. So the engine has not progressed much.
I have done a few jobs though, Ive made up the exaust tail pipe bracket along with the rear tub handles, these were sent to Perth along with the bumper for galvanising. I was abit disappointed with the bumper when they returned. I had repaired some rust holes in it and ground the welds flat, but after galvanising the welds were about 010thou proud of the rest, so maybe I didnt get the welds below the layer of old galve.
Ive made up a seal for the vent flap below the windscreen as the original shape rubber isnt available. I used 38x3  soft strip rubber folded over, will have to glue it in to the groove as it is poping out on the edges.The drivers side door top had been bent so have been straightend  and repaired had to use a repair section made up by a mate in Perth.
The windscreen is now complete and fitted. New laminated glass with a slight green tint. I cheated assembling it, I didnt use the proper rubber strip, I didnt have any large sash clamps to squeeze it together, so I held the glass in place with small rubber blocks and screwed the frame up and then glued the glass in with sikaflex. Alot easier.
This weekend I riveted the capping on with the solid rivets. I made up some dollies and a tool for the air chisel, its brutal but quick way of riviting, no bog fell out.

1950landy

14th August 2017, 05:57 AM

That is a problem with welding up holes in steel, doesn't matter if it is already galvanized or not the weld will always take on a thicker layer of galv. The galvanizers say it is caused by silcone in the weld. When we had our welding business & the guys drilled holes in the wrong place & would weld up the holes & grind them dead flat , after galv the weld would always sit proud , even welds used to secure beaces during manufacture & had been ground off would do the same.

series1buff

14th August 2017, 11:24 AM

Its coming along nicely !

Can you give us details of the manometer please ? How you made it . Does it measure the valve seats for leakage ?

The engine builders use a vacuum pad placed onto the manifold port, and watch the gauge for the valve sealing leakage

1950landy

14th August 2017, 04:18 PM

Steve , what was the rubber you used & were did you get it. How did you manage to fold it so it would stay in shape. My rubber i fitted last time needs replacing & the co i bought it from last time are no longer in business.
Wayne

klonk

14th August 2017, 11:59 PM

[QUOTE=1950landy;2708008]That is a problem with welding up holes in steel, doesn't matter if it is already galvanized or not the weld will always take on a thicker layer of galv. The galvanizers say it is caused by silcone in the weld.

Thanks Wayne,
Kind of wondered if that was the case, I have some proper bearing scrapers ,so these might be good to remove the excess zinc rather than grinding or sanding.

The rubber strip is 38x3mm EPDM sponge rubber, Clarke rubber have it listed. I got mine from a local supplier. Not sure how well it will stay in place but a small amount of sikaflex will help I'm sure. Hopefully it will stay bent over after it's been clamped up for awhile, it's quite soft rubber.

Mike,

The manometer setup is just for testing restrictions. It is no good for testing valve leakage.
To test for valve leakage I would assemble the valve sit the head up level and put a small pool of penetrating oil around the valve edge and wait to see if it disappears.

The manometer was made from a household vacuum cleaner, a plastic container that is about the same diameter as the piston that covers the valve and spark plug hole. 8 or 10 mtrs of 3/8 pvc tubing, a 3 mtr length of timber and a tape measure.
The tape measure is run down the centre of the timber and the tube is run down from the top to the bottom and back up again either side of the tape. The long end is connected to the side of the cup through a neat hole and a hole is also cut in the end for the vacuum cleaner hose.
Fill the tube with some coloured water to a meter from the bottom, now your ready to go.
Be carefull if you block the cup off the vacuum will suck the water out of the tube.
Fit a spark plug to fill the hole, open the valve a set amount , turn the cleaner on and place the cup over the valve and take note of the water level. Then the port mods were made and the test run again and if an improvement is made the water level will be lower than before, indicating less restriction though the port and valve.
So that's the measuring tool. The rest is knowledge and experience.

Cheers Steve

1950landy

18th August 2017, 09:23 AM

I have sent you a PM about D Lamps . Wayne

klonk

16th September 2017, 11:44 PM

Well the jobs list is getting smaller, just two major jobs left left. Repair the two doors and rebuild the engine. The tail lights thanks to 1950landy have been sorted and an exaust system has been fitted.

I decided to repair the two doors as our local sheet metal shops wanted too much to bend up new ones, so I have drilled out the spot welds and removed the frame from the insides. Inside the top corner i found a work of art that someone had put inside the frame to strengthen it up. So the cracks and holes will be welded up and a new frame made up. Not really looking forward to panel beating again. The door latches have been dismantled cleaned and new springs fitted.

I got a couple of tail lights off 1950landy. They were in pretty good condition but needed abit of work on the light bulb holders. I wanted to fit LEDs to them to make the tail lights abit brighter, but the bulb holders looked alright just abit of abit of a clean and a tweek, however during the tweek bit I broke one. So after a trip to the jaycar store I came home with some strip LEDs and an LED light kit that goes into the interior light of your car. They will burn your eyes out at 20 paces. So I cut the dividing piece out of the light and glued the LEDs in after giving the lights a coat of paint. So now they are all mounted and working.

The Exaust I had made up at the local exaust place, I had one to copy that a mate in town got from England. I used a HT holden muffler and it only required minor adjustment when I fitted it.

1950landy

17th September 2017, 04:36 AM

Well done , the lights look a treat. :thumbsup: I still need to do the doors on Landy but don't I will be going that far with them. The L/ H one is not too bad but tother has small dents all over it . A panel beater I knew told me he would take the stresses out of it &nwhen i got it back it was dead flat with no spot weld marks left in it [bigsad] . This guy business restored quite exoctic cars so I was disapointed in what he had done, over the years the filler he had put in has cracked & started to lift . The other week I removed all the filler but it has left behind a sticky sudstance in all the detents he has put in . So far every thing I have tried to remove the sticky substance has not worked.
Keep up the good work & hope you get to the major job soon ( the motor) there is nothing like taking a S 1 for a drive & all the :thumbsup: you get from other drivers..

series1buff

17th September 2017, 04:45 PM

Great idea with the D lights.

The doors were always a problem , they were on the flimsy side even when new . I've seen various methods that people tried to stiffen the doors . One door I have , they pop riveted a triangular strengtheners in the corners .

The door hinges are also a poor design, the 'droopy door syndrome' is a common sight on 80's . I made up some sleeves and fitted these into the door hinge mounts on the bulkhead, this improved the door sitting level enormously . The doors are now a firm fit in the hinges .

klonk

24th September 2017, 09:26 PM

Yesterday I was stripping the paint from the doors before I start repairs, the drivers door had tare and weight on the bottom rear corner but couldnt see any other letters even a light sand didnt reveal anything. So I spread paint stripper over the door, left it 5 min and returned to wash the paint off. It was then I noticed letters etched into the aluminium. Managed to read some but enough to be a tease.

_ _ _ GOOD
Ma_ _H_H
_ _ _ _B_A

Tare 24 CWT
Load 8 CWT

Klonk was sold through Annard and Thompson, Brisbane so no records available. Anyone have any idears of any names or districts that might match. I have a black light at work so will try that to see if I can pick anything else.

cheers Steve

klonk

17th October 2017, 11:01 PM

Have had a play with the photos of klonks door at a mates place using photo shop to see if we could get a better look at the lettering. We took more photos using his better camera and tried all sorts of light conditions. The best we got was in the shadow of my hand under a LED house globe. We then played around with it in photo shop. The best we got was in the one below, but still still none the wiser really.

131013

Cheers Steve

klonk

21st January 2018, 12:13 AM

Gee its been awhile since Ive updated my thread. Its been a busy A/C season so most of my weekends went to that. On top of that my real job has been flat out as well, so any spare time Ive had was spent asleep in the chair, and couldnt be botherd picking up another spanner.
However a few jobs have been sorted First I did abit more research on klonk. The serial no and engine no were put through a state and federal data base search but nothing found, glad it didnt come up as stolen though. Volunteering at the PCYC came in handy.
Next I made up some heat sheilds for the exaust, 3" exaust pipe did the job, made the clamps and will paint them with silver heat proof paint.
The doors, Ive had new ones bent up, I didnt have the patience to panelbeat them.The parts were bent up and Ive glued them together. The door latch area was strengthend and the door was made out of 2mm sheet.Just waiting for the top coat now.
The rear seats have been finished. I used closed cell foam under the normal foam, it gives the seat abit more body. Ive made a couple of badges, unfortunatly the mold sat around too long and started to crumble abit so will have to redo the klonk one again. A mate uses the white metal on the back of woodchipper knives after he has sharpened them. They are used it the forestry industry chipping bluegum for paper.
I have a dual temp and engine oil guage to fit somewhere, most people fit them in the L/H steering column hole but I dont like that as my special land rover man bag will hang over the grabrail and I wont be able to see the guage. So Ive made up a mount that goes onto the steering column. Happy now.

Cheers Steve

klonk

21st January 2018, 02:25 AM

And the badges. That knife is 1/2" thick and 5" wide and will shave the hairs off your arm.

chazza

21st January 2018, 08:35 AM

Nice work Steve! Love the seats,

Cheers Charlie

67hardtop

21st January 2018, 09:54 AM

And the badges. That knife is 1/2" thick and 5" wide and will shave the hairs off your arm.
Ive seen those cutters b4. I used to work at the Manjimup wood chip mill in 1979. They are very sharp. They did the same thing. Changing the blades and pouring metal to make them up to length for the chipper wheel.

Cheers Rod

gavinwibrow

22nd January 2018, 11:25 AM

And the badges. That knife is 1/2" thick and 5" wide and will shave the hairs off your arm.

Amazing (and brilliant work in general and the badges in particular - who would have thought of it). I must get down to Albany before you finish the project for a stickiebeak!

klonk

23rd January 2018, 01:09 AM

Got a couple of jobs done at the weekend. I have a dual guage, temp and oil pressure that I wanted to fit, the usual place is in the L/H steering column hole but its hard to see there and I have a grabrail bag that will cover the guage, So came up with the idea to put it on the steering column, so made up a bracket to suit. Its out of the road and easy to see. When the engine is fitted I will make the tubing length to suit.

The other job was to put the sign writing on the tailgate. Klonk is a Queensland car, so Annard and Thompson should have painted this on before delivery. My daughter is on holidays from uni and likes art, so I put her to the test. We made up a stencil of the lettering and she hand painted ''land rover'' on to it. Vynal lettering would have been quicker and easier, but I prefer to see the brush marks. I think they were screen printed originally.

Cheers Steve

PS Gavin your welcome anytime you will have to be quick though. I have said it will be available for Anzac day, So will need to run it in before then. Aah the end is nigh, nothing like a dead line.

67hardtop

23rd January 2018, 10:49 AM

Nice paint job. My s2a was delivered by annand and thompson as well but they werent doing that anymore.

Cheers Rod

klonk

1st February 2018, 11:00 PM

This weekend I got a couple of jobs done. First an electrician mate came around and we finished the wiring in the shed. Now I have 4 power points 3 lights in the shed and a LED floodlight outside, I now dont have to walk into the back corner of the shed by torch light at night. Anyway klonk got pushed out of the shed for the day, so got to see the tailgate signwriting at a proper distance instead of jambed up in the shed.
Got a top coat of paint on the doors, all went well but after an hour the paint was still glossy, it should have matted off by then. looks like the paint shop forgot to put the matting agent in. Rang them today and they cant add the agent in afterwards so Ill have to buy another lot. Also painted the couple badges I made and fitted one to the grabrail bag.
This weekend I should be able to pickup the engine from getting machined and start that. Need to borrow an engine stand from a mate, he has all the mounting brackets made as he has done 2 engines.

Cheers Steve

1950landy

6th February 2018, 12:40 PM

klonk

7th February 2018, 03:20 PM

Were did you get the bag . I just have my drivers hand book floating around in the tool box in a zip bag & it is getting very fragile after all these years , that would be a better option for keeping it safe.
Wayne

Hi Wayne,
Got it from Tom Pickford when I got the hood. Toms spent plenty of time in Aus swallowing red dust in old landys. He can be abit slow answering emails if he's busy.

How is your 80" going.

Cheers Steve

Accessories : Grab Rail Bag 80" (http://wwspares.co.uk/index.php/2012-12-05-11-07-05/accessories2013-12-13-04-20-07/grab-rail-bag-80-detail)

1950landy

9th February 2018, 03:02 PM

Hi Steve,
Thanks for that info. I have not been able to work on Landy since around September last year when I fell down a 25mm step that I didn't see & tore the cartilage in my left wrist in 5 places. I only need to bolt the top back onto the gear box & prep & paint the doors to finish. I eventually found out a couple of weeks ago what they can do & the specialist has given me two options , the 1st is to cut a section out of one of the long bones in my for arm & screw a steel plate in to hold it together & put my arm in plaster for 6 months . He tells me one of the bones is too long & that has punched a hole in the cartilage, or do key hole surgery to clean up the joint & grind the bones smooth. I think I will be going with the second option, that will put me out of action for 10 days. I have also had an op on my right thumb to remove 3 rose thorns deep in the end of my thumb. So all around a bit useless at the moment waiting to get the stitches out next week.:thumbsdown:

klonk

8th March 2018, 12:30 AM

Finally got the engine parts back from the engine shop. Had to rebore the spare block as the bores in the original didnt clean up at 040 thou, oversize . Botched that up I did. So the block has been washed, cleaned and the paint stripped from the outside. The rings have been gapped and fitted to the pistons, valves and cam fitted, and now have the engine stand ready to put the block on. Cylinder head is assembled and painted. All bolts have been sorted, cleaned, painted and bagged. The bolt painting is something I got from Dinty, A good idea but fiddly and time consuming. Glad thats the last lot. The next two weekends are booked up doing other stuff so will have to get it assembled in the evenings. Cant wait.

Cheers Steve