Rotating distributor

[Scallops]

Hello Folks - a few questions if I may....Does the Series 1 original Lucas Distributor actually rotate by undoing the base screw? Mine won't budge. (I know there are 2 screws)

Now - my vehicle now drives perfectly with the choke out half way. No backfire. Slight backfire from carby (not exhaust) with choke in and revving engine. So might I try enriching the mix via the mix screw? The static timing is set and the distributor is as retarded as can be (as retarded as me! :p) - as set by Blknight.

But I read elsewhere that retarded timing can be the cause of a carby backfire....

Can someone knowledgeable on this motor (2litre spread bore) give me some straight answers here? :p

- might a fully retarded distributor cause the carby backfire?
- as it drives fine with choke out, should I advance the timing a little and enrich the mix a little?

[Timj]

Hi Dan,

I'm not an expert on either the Solex or the 2 litre (not an expert at all, really :)) but in general a carbie's mixture screw only controls idle mixture. Above idle there is enough vacuum generated within the carbie to drive the normal circuits where the mixture is controlled by the jets and an accelerator pump of some kind that reacts when you first press the accelerator to give an extra burst of petrol. So given that the car is idling properly I don't think you need to play with mixture. Given experience with other engines then timing not being right can certainly cause backfires and poor running.

Are you setting the timing with a timing light or statically (lining things up then turning the dizzy until the points spark)? I would set the engine initially to the recommendations in the manual then you can advance it from there until you get pinging under load, then retard it just a little. If you are using a timing light you can rev the engine and make sure that it advances, you can also see if there is wear in the distributor by how solid the light is on the mark, if the mark is moving around around and is hard to tell if it is sitting in one spot then there may be wear in the distributor causing erratic timing. Also check that your leads are all good and have tight crimping onto the plugs and dizzy, points are clean and flat surfaces and that the plugs are set to the right gap and are also clean with no signs of arcing across to the insulator.

The process of setting timing is also a bit of a trial and error thing in that the timing varies with the revs and the revs vary with the timing so, once you set the idle revs and mixture, you then set the timing, that changes the revs so you then reset the revs and mixture, that changes the timing so you then reset the timing and so on until it all sits properly.

Hope that helps a little at least.

Tim.

[Scallops]

Hi Dan,


Are you setting the timing with a timing light or statically (lining things up then turning the dizzy until the points spark)?


Tim.

Both. So there is no direct relationship between being fully retarded and a backfiring carby? If mix only effects idle, I wonder why it runs fine with some choke?

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Scallops

We will try again, with this, using the series I, operators, parts and workshop manuals, as references.


Does the Series 1 original Lucas Distributor actually rotate by undoing the base screw ?

Yes and to remove the distributor from the motor.

The clamping plate, P/No 245003 has two fasterners;
one, is a clamp screw horizonialy located through the clamping plate, this is slacked to turn the distributor in the distributor housing assembly, P/No 214047
two, is a special set screw, P/No 215758 that fixes through the sloted hole in the clamping plate and removing this screw is the easiest way to remove the distributor from the motor.


Now - my vehicle now drives perfectly with the choke out half way. No backfire. Slight backfire from carby (not exhaust) with choke in and revving engine.

That back fire is when the motor is running lean, it isn't getting the correct amount of fuel under load.
First, I would check that the fuel pump, is delivering a steady amount of fuel to the point where the fuel line P/No 218955 meets the carby, undo this and get someone to turn the key on and you watch as the petrol is run into a jug, there should be steady flow of petrol at that point.

Let me know when you have done this, as there maybe a blockage elsewhere.


So might I try enriching the mix via the mix screw?

That only sets the idle mix and is easy to do when everything else has been made correct.

Cheers Arthur

[Scallops]

Thanks Arthur! The fuel pump is bellowing fuel out to the carby - no prob there. I'll persevere with trying to rotate the distributor then.

I'm close to getting this right and appreciate your patience and help. :)

[series1buff]

The series 1 engines can be a **** of a thing to tune . Looking through the UK forum, you see many people with engine tuning and other fault problems. I had a lot of trouble myself .I played with the petrol pump , carby and the electrical side of things .... thank god it runs OK now :confused:. They are rather fussy and you have to be 'IN THE BALLPARK' otherwise it won't perform.

Compared to the other older vehicles I have owned, these cars are a nightmare to get running correctly.

The petrol pump is a low pressure thing ..you want it to be around 1.5 psi .. that's all.. if its higher the carby will flood . The needle/seat in the carby is a left over from gravity feed systems from pre war cars.

The carby will seep petrol from just about every orifice .... I always look at restored series 1's under the bonnet..more often than not, you will see a petrol stain all over the carby ... the gasket between the acc. pump housing and the main body is a big culpret for that .

Mike

[wrinklearthur]

The fuel pump is bellowing fuel out to the carby

Hi Scallops

The next thing to check is, to see if the petrol is passing through the needle and valve seat P/No 260164, quickly enough.

So next, undo the three screws P/No 512401, that hold the top cover P/No 260165, of the carby down.

Now, repeat the test as done before, but this time have the fuel line connected to the carby cover and checking that joint doesn't leak, hold the cover over your jug and at the same time operate the end of the needle, so it closes and opens the valve.

Things to look for;
Does the valve stick shut at all? if it does stick shut, replace the needle and valve seat P/No 260164.

Is the flow of petrol out of the valve, good or is it very slow? If it is slow, there would be blockage either in the needle and valve seat P/No 260164, or the gauze filter P/No 260168, ( this filter is contained by the special bolt P/No 260167, that passes through inside the banjo union P/No 260166 and screwed into the carby cover ).

Cheers Arthur

[Scallops]

Hi Scallops

The next thing to check is, to see if the petrol is passing through the needle and valve seat P/No 260164, quickly enough.

So next, undo the three screws P/No 512401, that hold the top cover P/No 260165, of the carby down.

Now, repeat the test as done before, but this time have the fuel line connected to the carby cover and checking that joint doesn't leak, hold the cover over your jug and at the same time operate the end of the needle, so it closes and opens the valve.

Things to look for;
Does the valve stick shut at all? if it does stick shut, replace the needle and valve seat P/No 260164.

Is the flow of petrol out of the valve, good or is it very slow? If it is slow, there would be blockage either in the needle and valve seat P/No 260164, or the gauze filter P/No 260168, ( this filter is contained by the special bolt P/No 260167, that passes through inside the banjo union P/No 260166 and screwed into the carby cover ).

Cheers Arthur

Seat valve and needle functioning correctly - new needle had been used. Float working fine. Gauze cleaned out in carby cleaner.

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Scallops

We'll keep going along with the lean mixture theme, Is there any chance that two washers, or too thick a washer was fitted between the carby cover and the body of the needle valve and seat, as this would cause the float level to be too low?

How good is the intake manifold surface and its gasket?
Also have you inspected the intake manifold for any corrosion holes or stress cracks, that may have developed?
Can you fit a vacuum gauge, to do a run and tell us what the results are?

Cheers Arthur

[Scallops]

Hi Scallops

We'll keep going along with the lean mixture theme, Is there any chance that two washers, or too thick a washer was fitted between the carby cover and the body of the needle valve and seat, as this would cause the float level to be too low?

How good is the intake manifold surface and its gasket?
Also have you inspected the intake manifold for any corrosion holes or stress cracks, that may have developed?
Can you fit a vacuum gauge, to do a run and tell us what the results are?

Cheers Arthur

The carby cover and body where the needle and valve sit are attached by 3 bolts (2 on the upside and 1 facing down at the rear) with spring washers - these are fine. Float action was checked to make sure float actually floats and has no small holes.

Intake manifold gasket is as new - was replaced when I got her only a matter on a year or so ago - it's all good.

Don't have a vacuum gauge. But I feel the issue is simply in the mix ratio and the timing - it's fully retarded, as set by forum member. This is a well known culprit for carby backfires, is it not?

[series1buff]

Don't have a vacuum gauge. But I feel the issue is simply in the mix ratio and the timing - it's fully retarded, as set by forum member. This is a well known culprit for carby backfires, is it not?

Scallops

I feel a vacuum gauge is ideal for this situation ..old time mechanics swear by them . They can isolate many problems . http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

I don't understand why the timing is fully retarded , it will run poorly in that state.

I set the timing by the static flywheel mark..then adjust it by advancing it on the dissy vacuum screw.

Mike

[wrinklearthur]

The carby cover and body where the needle and valve sit are attached by 3 bolts (2 on the upside and 1 facing down at the rear) with spring washers - these are fine. Float action was checked to make sure float actually floats and has no small holes.

Intake manifold gasket is as new - was replaced when I got her only a matter on a year or so ago - it's all good.

Don't have a vacuum gauge. But I feel the issue is simply in the mix ratio and the timing - it's fully retarded, as set by forum member. This is a well known culprit for carby backfires, is it not?

Hi Scallops

I am not sure if you picked up on what I wrote, about the thickness of the washer between the needle and seat valve and the carby cover.
If a thicker washer is installed there, the end of the valve is then further down into the float chamber and that means the fuel level is being kept at a lower position, the carby then feeds a leaner mix of charge into the intake manifold.

As the amount of fuel is fed by the venturi effect is controlled by the float level, any increase in that level means that more fuel is drawn into the charge mix.
Likewise any decrease in the float level means it has a a leaner charge mix.

So measure the level of the fuel in the carby and see if it is at the correct height.

Once set the mixture doesn't change suddenly, it will take years of work to wear out the throttle plate shaft, to the point that the air leaking past the shaft causes lean mixture problems.

If it has suddenly started to run lean, I would be looking for a blockage, in a fuel filter, a jet or some water down inside the carburetor.

As with the timing of the distributor, once set the body of the distributor should not be disturbed, as the timing was correct for that particular motor.

Any problems again that occur over a relatively short period are due to a problem that can only happen quickly, the points are the first thing that I would look at here and the reason for this is that any variation in the points gap can have a immediate effect on the timing.
If the heal of the points has worn and the points close up the timing is retarded, as the points open later and for a shorter time (see references to dwell angle).
Likewise if the points have burnt quickly from say a trip were the motor was fast running for a long time , and the gap has opened, the timing has advanced.
If the points are burning too fast during normal use, I would be replacing the condenser as well.

Now the ticklish question

and the timing - it's fully retarded, as set by forum member. This is a well known culprit for carby backfires, is it not?

It is a chicken and the egg situation, which comes first?
Basically if the mixture is corrected, only the timing issue is left, to put back to the original timing setting.

The article below is a good explanation of what does happen


Cheers Arthur

Ref: Why does retarded timing = hot engine? - SmokStak (http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php't=70385)
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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/159.jpg Re: Why does retarded timing = hot engine?
When the engine fires normally, the fire burns completely (or nearly so) within the combustion chamber. The heat is kept within the combustion chamber, and as the pressure drops during the power stroke, the superheated gasses cool. As the power stroke occurs, the cylinder absorbs the heat, and when the exhaust valve opens, the burned cool mixture is blown out of the cylinder and combustion chamber.

When timing is retarded, peak pressure and heat is delayed, and is not confined to the combustion chamber. Delayed ignition causes the peak heat and pressure to occur in the cylinder body itself. The flame actually burns the lubricating oil off the cylinder walls, causing more friction. As the combusting mixture is not under high compression, it is less dense, again causing further delays in the burn. When the exhaust valve opens, extremely hot, still burning gasses are blown out the exhaust port. past the valve. This flame heats the valve red hot, and superheats the head and manifold. Running an engine retarded for any length of time, under load, will cause valve burn out, and excess wear to the rings, piston, and cylinder.

Running a 2 stroke engine retarded can have severe consequences as well. Again, it allows the main flame and pressure to build within the cylinder instead of the combustion chamber. The excess heat in the cylinder burns off the lubricating oil, overheats and distorts the cylinder body, and when the exhaust port opens, allows direct flame impingement on the face of the port and piston surface to occur. A severely retarded 2 stroke, under load will melt the piston and damage the exhaust port in short order!https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/160.jpg I have seen engines with the pistons actually blow molten aluminum out the exhaust port, to the point that the rings also get burned off by the flow of burning exhaust out the ports.

An engine, with no load, running retarded may not give symptoms of retarded overheating until it is too late, and damage has been done. This may show up as burned head gaskets, warped or burned valves, poor ring seal, and severe power loss, especially when loaded for a length of time. With the piston removed, a sure sign of retarded timing is a brownish or blued cylinder wall, and a severely varnished, or galled piston skirt. This is directly the result of an over heated piston, and the fact that oil has been burned off the cylinder.

Ignition Timing is not the only reason for retarded timing! Setting the mixture too lean, and or an intake leak (worn throttle shaft, leaking gaskets, broken hoses) will also cause heating due to the lower density of fuel to air within the cylinder. The lower fuel/air density causes the mixture to burn longer, with a similar result in damage.

Andrewhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/161.jpg

[numpty]

The carby cover and body where the needle and valve sit are attached by 3 bolts (2 on the upside and 1 facing down at the rear) with spring washers - these are fine. Float action was checked to make sure float actually floats and has no small holes.

Intake manifold gasket is as new - was replaced when I got her only a matter on a year or so ago - it's all good.

Don't have a vacuum gauge. But I feel the issue is simply in the mix ratio and the timing - it's fully retarded, as set by forum member. This is a well known culprit for carby backfires, is it not?

Most of us S1 owners are Dan ;) Following this with interest though.

Perry

[Scallops]

Arthur - yes, sorry - the needle is a new unit with the correct washer. Confident the fuel is at the right level here.

As for the timing being fully retarded - I don't know why Dave left it like that either....but I'm sure hear-in lies the problem...

Appreciate the efforts to help gentlemen, but it's a bit like me trying to explain to someone how to deconvolve a seismic field record. Too many factors if one party doesn't speak the language. Time to pull the wallet out and get it done properly.

[dennisS1]

If you want to PM me your phone number I will ring you and we can go over the timing, Yes there are a number of things that have to be about right but they are not that hard to tune, with a bit of practise you can normally get them running pretty good even with very worn parts.
Dennis

[wrinklearthur]

Arthur - yes, sorry - the needle is a new unit with the correct washer. Confident the fuel is at the right level here..

Hi Dan

Good! that confirms that. if the mixture was still wrong, I would be looking now for an air leak somewhere between the carby and inside the head.


As for the timing being fully retarded - I don't know why Dave left it like that either....but I'm sure hear-in lies the problem.....

If you haven't moved the body of the distributor yet and only adjusted the octane selector, it's time we did the ignition thing and for these old motors, static timing is the only way to go. See below for another article, this one is about a rover car motor, but it does it the old way and which has the correct settings for the Land Rover's motor as well.


Appreciate the efforts to help gentlemen, but it's a bit like me trying to explain to someone how to deconvolve a seismic field record. Too many factors if one party doesn't speak the language. Time to pull the wallet out and get it done properly.

The only thing my wallets good for, is cutting leather gaskets from! :D , leave yours in your pocket.

Language barriers are a problem, when a mentally burnt out, dairy farmer, from across the water in Tasmania, tries to communicate with a banana whisperer from across the Northern boarders, using something as antiquated as this sped up version of Morse code!
:twobeers:

The Rover P4 95/110 Owner's Manual (http://www.rover.org.nz/manuals/p4_110/main5.htm)

Distributor maintenance
Every 6,000 miles (10.000 km), remove the distributor cap and lubricate as follows:
1. Lightly smear the cam with clean engine oil.
2. Lift off the rotor and add a few drops of thin machine oil to lubricate the cam bearing and distributor shaft; push the rotor on as far as possible.
3. Place a drop of clean engine oil on the contact breaker lever pivot, taking care not to oil the contacts.
4. Add a few drops of thin machine oil through the contact breaker base plate, to lubricate the automatic timing control.http://www.rover.org.nz/manuals/p4_110/images/p4fig63.jpg
Distributor Occasionally clean the distributor as follows
1. Wipe the inside and outside of the cap with a soft, dry cloth; ensure that the small carbon brush works freely in its holder.
2. Slacken the nut on the terminal block and lift off the spring and moving contact, Ensure that the contacts are free from grease or oil; if they are burned or blackened, clean with a fine carborundum stone or very fine emery cloth and wipe with a petrol-moistened cloth. Replace the moving contact.
3. Every 6,000 miles (10.000 km) check and adjust the contact breaker clearance as follows
(i) Remove the distributor cap and turn over the engine by hand until the contacts are fully open.
(ii) The clearance should be .014 to .016 in. (0,35 to 0,40 mm). The feeler gauge should be a sliding fit between the contacts.
(iii) If necessary, slacken the two screws which secure the adjustable contact and adjust by means of the adjuster screw until the clearance is correct; re-tighten the two retaining screws.
(iv) Replace the distributor cap.

Ignition timing
In addition to automatic timing advance and retard mechanism, the distributor incorporates a hand setting control, known as the octane selector. This is a vernier adjustment attached to the distributor, fitted with a sliding portion controlled by an adjusting screw and a calibrated scale marked R (retard) and A (advance) with a number of divisions between. The standard setting for the ignition is with the long line of the scale on the sliding portion against the mark on the selector body, thus leaving one division further possible advance and four divisions retard.
This setting is correct for premium fuel (80 octane) and with a clean engine, but should pinking develop as a result of the need for decarbonising, the control can be retarded a little by turning the screw in a clockwise direction. Do not forget to return it to the original position after decarbonising.
In certain countries very low grade fuel is supplied, in which case it may be necessary to adjust the octane selector to avoid pinking, even with a clean engine.
http://www.rover.org.nz/manuals/p4_110/images/p4fig64.jpg
Ignition timing
Should the distributor have been disturbed, the ignition timing must be reset as follows:
1. Set the contact breaker point gap .014 to .016 in. (0,35 to 0,40 mm) with the points fully open.
2. Rotate the engine in the running direction until the mark on the flywheel, as detailed below, is in line with the pointer, with both valves on No. 1 cylinder closed.
95 and 110 models (6cyl motors) -6°'s mark when using premium fuel. Should be 15° for early 4 Cylinder 1.6 Litre and 10° for the later spread bore 2 Litre Land Rover motor using 80 octane petrol.
3. The distributor rotor will now correspond with No. 1 cylinder high tension lead terminal.
4. Set the octane selector so that the fourth line from the left-hand side of the calibrated slide is against the face of the distributor body casting.
5. Slacken the pinch bolt at the base of the distributor head; rotate the distributor bodily in the opposite direction to the arrow on the rotor arm until the contact breaker points are just opening with the fibre cam follower on the leading side of the cam; re-tighten the pinch bolt.

Cheers Arthur

[series1buff]

Just because you have a new washer under the needle/seat.. doesn't mean the float level is set correctly .. this gadget I made is the only way of determining where the float is . http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=116045 The petrol should be 5/8" below the top edge . As Arthur explained , it will stuff up your mixture if it isn't correct. You must do this test with the carby sitting level..no good if it's tilting , it's best to remove it for the test.

You use an old main jet holder and drill it out .... you have to also drill the internal pathway in the jet holder as well otherwise the petrol won't feed trhough ther jet holder . Took me ages to realise the float level is critical on these things.

Another thing is: drill out the main air bleed jet if you have the small one fitted . It sits on top of the emulsion tower ..easy to see it. It helps enormously to do this , to run a non-rich mixture as these buggers tend to do run rich if they are worn.

BTW now you will understand why so many owners in the UK install a NOS Weber and chuck the old Solex in the bin

Mike

[fc110]

Hi Scallops

We'll keep going along with the lean mixture theme, Is there any chance that two washers, or too thick a washer was fitted between the carby cover and the body of the needle valve and seat, as this would cause the float level to be too low?

How good is the intake manifold surface and its gasket?
Also have you inspected the intake manifold for any corrosion holes or stress cracks, that may have developed?
Can you fit a vacuum gauge, to do a run and tell us what the results are?

Cheers Arthur

The Series 1 Solex has a bad habit, from overtightening, of distorting the mounting flange (2 bolts). Sometimes it will produce quite a nice whistle. Put a sheet of medium wet & dry on a very flat surface (an old LR door window is ideal), & rub the carby flange around (not in one direction) a couple of times. You will soon see if the surface is flat or bowed. If flat leave alone, if not keep going until flat. This method also works on the less often distorted top cover. Wash thoroughly afterwards, don't want to ingest grinding powder. In general diecast (zinc alloys) age over time & naturally distort to some extent.

[Hartley]

The motor running okay with mixture enrichment open suggests the problem is neither lack of fuel getting into the float chamber nor is it a timing problem.

I have had a partly blocked jet give this symptom, but I cant remember which one. The good thing about the solex is that they are easy to get out to check.

[wrinklearthur]

The motor running okay with mixture enrichment open suggests the problem is neither lack of fuel getting into the float chamber nor is it a timing problem.

I have had a partly blocked jet give this symptom, but I cant remember which one. The good thing about the solex is that they are easy to get out to check.
Hi Hartley

Thanks for that info, that is a good bit of logic there.

You have probably put your finger on the cause of this problem, as having a partly blocked jet can be the cause of all of this and it's not that easy to see that fault, as Dan has already tried using carburetor cleaner.

What I have been doing here, is to introduce a train of thought.
Of, if it is not that, then it must be the next thing in line, a process of elimination.

By eliminating the probable causes and on the way return all settings back to their original places, it becomes clearer where the actual problem is.

So the when the timing, which has been altered, has been returned to it's correct setting, we will then be able, to go back at looking at the charge mixture.

Cheers Arthur

[Aaron IIA]

BTW now you will understand why so many owners in the UK install a NOS Weber and chuck the old Solex in the bin

Why would they do this, when it is possible to buy a new Solex carburettor?

Aaron.

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Scallops



[ Quote ]
As for the timing being fully retarded - I don't know why Dave left it like that either....but I'm sure hear-in lies the problem..... [/Quote ]

I would say that Dave left it like that, because it sounded like the motor was running better at that postion and He left it until the rest of the problem has been worked through.

Have you cut your wallet up for gaskets yet?

I re read your other thread about using 98 octane petrol, it's really the only option that we have these days.

I will try and find some more info to go with that ignition tune up procedure I have posted, mainly to find out about the increments on the octane selector, as they do change the timing by a certain amount of degress, per each increment mark.

Cheers Arthur

[series1buff]

Why would they do this, when it is possible to buy a new Solex carburettor?

Aaron.

Because the Indian made Solex ..isn't widely available in the UK . I bought one from Ron, of the G503 web site fame . Initially, it worked OK for a short time, then it played up . The acc.pump stopped functioning and it ran rich . I pulled it off and it awaits looking at. Not impressed at all myself but CJ and WW2 jeep owners in the USA have some success with them.

The UK series 1 owners buy NOS Webers from a few well known dealers over there in the UK. They are comparatively cheap and perform well on series 1 engines from reports.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEBER-34-ICH-CARBURETTOR-LANDROVER-2A-3-RHD-LHD-NEW-/200648347523?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb792cf83

Mike

[numpty]

Because the Indian made Solex ..isn't widely available in the UK . I bought one from Ron, of the G503 web site fame . Initially, it worked OK for a short time, then it played up . The acc.pump stopped functioning and it ran rich . I pulled it off and it awaits looking at. Not impressed at all myself but CJ and WW2 jeep owners in the USA have some success with them.

The UK series 1 owners buy NOS Webers from a few well known dealers over there in the UK. They are comparatively cheap and perform well on series 1 engines from reports.

WEBER 34 ICH CARBURETTOR LANDROVER 2A & 3 RHD/LHD NEW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEBER-34-ICH-CARBURETTOR-LANDROVER-2A-3-RHD-LHD-NEW-/200648347523?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eb792cf83)

Mike

I had my Solex completely refurbished and Leon runs beautifully. I have a couple of spares that will be done up as well, because Thomas has a Stromberg on him that will be removed, when he is restored.

[Scallops]

Update time! Matilda is running OK as of last night. The only thing I actually did was screw in the mix as far as I could, then back it off half a turn - and I can now rev it from idle with no backfire, once warm. I'm not going to suggest I understand why, especially as choke out fixed this problem too, and I've actually made the mix leaner. :confused:

Killer then came over with a timing light. Now here is the problem. Even with the "octane selector" at full retard, we cannot retard the timing quite enough, so back to the title of this thread!

The darned distributor just won't rotate. Took the bolts off completely - 2 mm movement max. :(

I'm guessing from Killer's comment that this could be fatal....:(

On the upside though, the engine did sound relatively OK as in - no backfire. I'll take a test drive tonight and also believe another S1 big gun aka "The Colonel" will be dropping by so fingers crossed that the magic fingers of the top brass may be able to help.

But I would just like to thank again all here for their efforts in explaining technicals and providing links etc for my benefit. It is most appreciated and I hope to be in some position to repay the favour some day.

[Scallops]

So....any hints to free the distributor? :angel:

[bee utey]

All things being equal you can slightly reduce the points gap to retard the timing. As to how to shift the dissy, if a pipe wrench or hammer won't fix it, leave it for another day! Soak CRC around the base every day for a couple of weeks and try again.

[series1buff]

ALSO CONSIDER THE POSSIBLITY THAT SOMEBODY HAS INSTALLED THE DISSY IN THE WRONG POSITION PREVIOUSLY. It's rather tricky getting the dissy drive gear meshed in the corrrect gear on the camshaft . It may be out by one tooth .The manual describes how to do it, but its not 100% clear . Took me ages to get mine correct.

IF ITS CORRECT , THE DISSY SHOULD BE AT APPROX. 90 DEGREES TO THE ENGINE BLOCK with the timing set up OK .

Try soaking the base in something ..don't use excessive force to move it ...just gently apply pressure , it will loosen up eventually . They do stick over time , not unusual. MIKE

[wrinklearthur]

So....any hints to free the distributor? :angel:
Hi Dan

Great to see your having some progress.

Do as bee utey has suggested, spray the parts with plenty of CRC or similar and with lots of time, should help free up the housings.
Then with reducing the points gap to 0.10in for the moment, that will help retard the ignition, but don't forget put it back to 0.15in afterwards.
.

Would it help, if you had some pictures of the exploded view of the distributor parts ?
If so, I should be able to scan those couple of pages for you, out of the parts manual.

Workshop manual settings for the points and plugs.

Plug gap ------------- .029 to .032 in. (0,75 to 0,80 mm.) set at .030 in.
Contact breaker gap -- .014 to .016 in. (0,35 to 0,40 mm.) set at .015 in.

Don't worry too much about these following settings, unless someone that is helping you has a dwell angle meter and / or a timing light.
Cam angle ( dwell ) ------ 45°
Advance degrees -------- Centrifugal 42° ; Vacuum 24°
Advance ( Engine RPM ) -- Begins 1,520 RPM ; Ends 4,500 RPM

Cheers Arthur

[Scallops]

Thanks again Arthur - I hope to meet you one day and thank you over dinner. :)

Went for a drive with Colonel Coleman tonight and we shall leave her be....it's driving fine! :banana:

Now, the dissy is still "stuck", but I'll do as folks suggest and get the Inox out and try again down the track. Just happy to be driving again, and better than ever before.

Again, appreciate all the fine folks who take the time to help me out - what a great community we have here. :)