D4 Alternator Question

[Redback]

I've done a search with no success, I was looking for the thread on how the D4 alternator works, it was posted that it stops charging at a certain speed, is it the 2,7l or 3.0l they were refering too:confused:

Baz.

[discowhite]

it was both? i think, and its only supposed to charge when your off load (coasting)?
the thread was a bit vague...
in relation to what do you need to know about the alt?
touch wood i havnt had any dramas with mine, it seams to do all thats
required of it.

cheers phil

[roamer]

Hey Baz
If you have the touch screen/nav, you can put up the secret screen,;);) and there is a section there for "Vechile Signals", which will give you voltages.

Cheers Ken

[drivesafe]

Hi Baz, the 2.7L’s alternator works like the D3.

The 3.0L is the one that, after the initial boost charge when you first start the motor, the voltage goes down while the motor is under load and rises as the load reduces, such as when coasting.

[RoverLander]

I agree with the above. The only thing i can add is that after the initial charge the car will operate at different voltages while cruising. This may vary between as low as 12.3 and 14.7. I have observed this over some 12 months on my d4. I have no idea why. Could it be some sort of battery conditioning algorithm?

[irondoc]

my 2011 2.7 D4 sits between 13.7 and 13.9 volts all the time. occasionally i see 14.0 or 14.1

cheers
lucas

[Stuart02]

Hey Baz
If you have the touch screen/nav, you can put up the secret screen,;);) and there is a section there for "Vechile Signals", which will give you voltages.

Cheers Ken

Tell, tell! Where's the secret screen? :)

[roamer]

Tell, tell! Where's the secret screen? :)

If you have nav\touch screen, put it on Home Screen", there is a grey bar at the top, hold finger in centre of bar for 3sec,then hold finger at left hand side of bar (on H ) for 6 sec till it goes to code screen, code is 753.
From there all sorts of stuff , bring camera on while on the move forward, Vehicle Signals, which oddly the speed reading is correct (ie not 5k\h fast like speedo).

I think the varible alternator has to do with load on motor, hence drops down when under load to save fuel\lessen pollution (more reason for carbon tax rebate,yeah sure)

Cheers Ken
Maybe this should go in FAQ under cool stuff

[Redback]

Thanks everyone.

Robert, maybe put this info in FAQ.

Baz.

[baldivistribe]

Hi all
Have had our Discovery for a month now and am constantly getting the low voltage stereo will turn off in 3 minutes thingy. We brought the vehicle home from Albany (4 odd hour drive) i would have thought the drive would have charged the vehicle battery enough not to get the warnings. I have since stuck my cteck 5 amp charger on and left it on for 2 days (took overnight to progress through the stages). Now i have just flicked my solar panel on the battery and the regulator today showed a SOC of 80%. I would have thought the Alternator would have done a better job of charging the battery. I would hate to go camping and leave the fridge on for a couple of days. My queries are does anyone have an understanding of how the alternator works. The so called secret screen just how exactly does this work as i have tried this evening to no avail. I have the black bar at the top of the screen.
Cheers
Steve

[sniegy]

Generator !

[drivesafe]

Hi all
Have had our Discovery for a month now and am constantly getting the low voltage stereo will turn off in 3 minutes thingy. We brought the vehicle home from Albany (4 odd hour drive) i would have thought the drive would have charged the vehicle battery enough not to get the warnings. I have since stuck my cteck 5 amp charger on and left it on for 2 days (took overnight to progress through the stages). Now i have just flicked my solar panel on the battery and the regulator today showed a SOC of 80%. I would have thought the Alternator would have done a better job of charging the battery. I would hate to go camping and leave the fridge on for a couple of days. My queries are does anyone have an understanding of how the alternator works.

Hi Steve and the problem is not the vehicle, it’s the battery.

Calcium/Calcium batteries can be a big problem to charge and if they have been sitting around for weeks on end and not being charged, ( like when being transported out here ) it can be fair sort of job to get them into a fully charged state.

Add to this your driving habits.

If you do lots of short drives, your are just exacerbating the problem.

An occasional long drive is always good for these batteries but if your solar panel has a adjustable regulator, set it to 14.7v and leave it on your battery as long as you can.

[bbyer]

Generator !How about Dynamo? - may as well be as I think these new alternators in combination with newer design batteries and control systems are so far away from functioning like anything most of us are used to, that a new, (or old), name should be applied.

Drivesafe is understating it when he says these new CaCa batteries are not like the conventional Lead Acid of yesterday. That and some combination of fuel economy and energy saving design philosophies or maybe just a "we can do it", kind of thinking leads to different operating requirements.

About twice a year, I put my CTEK charger on each of my two batteries separately and top them up. I would say that for the main starting battery, an Interstate, it takes about a week of nights for the CTEK to get to where it says the Interstate is fully charged. I think it is a combination of there always being a draw on the battery from the computer systems, the small size of the CTEK, and in my case, city driving.

I also use the cold weather setting on the CTEK which is the higher charge voltage, 14.7 volts and 3.3 amps.

[Orangi]

This morning I was meant to attend a Range Rover Club course so at 0615 a cold morning, I start the D4, however after a lot of flashing lights it pops up with the message that the smart key is not found yet it is right there. This happened a couple of times so we get out, lock the car wait 5 mins and still the same but then there is a lot more noise like relays going off an on. After a while I check the battery and it only has 9 volts. I try to jump start it with my fridge battery to avail. So a call to Land Rover Assist and NRMA battery guy arrives. He tries to jump start and that also fails. He puts a new battery in and after about a dozen goes at pressing the brake and on button it starts.

The NRMA guys says the alternator is running about 15.1 volts and suggests that is too high and this may have been the reason why the prior battery only lasted 3 years. Does any one know what the alternator should put out at? Is 15.1 volts too high?

[drivesafe]

Hi Orangi, if you have an AGM cranking battery then yes it is way too high and should not be over 14.7v.


High voltage like that is a software issue and you need to get it fixed, ASAP.


Keep an eye on the voltage to see if it does drop once you have been driving for 30 or more minutes.


If the voltage does not drop, whether you have an AGM or a Calcium/Calcium battery, you must get that fixed. That high a constant voltage will eventually cook any battery.

[Orangi]

Hi Orangi, if you have an AGM cranking battery then yes it is way too high and should not be over 14.7v.


High voltage like that is a software issue and you need to get it fixed, ASAP.


Keep an eye on the voltage to see if it does drop once you have been driving for 30 or more minutes.


If the voltage does not drop, whether you have an AGM or a Calcium/Calcium battery, you must get that fixed. That high a constant voltage will eventually cook any battery.

Thanks I'll take in ASAP