View Full Version : Internal Bead Locks
tonic
18th December 2011, 08:13 PM
Hi All.
Has anyone tried internal bead locks? Expensive waste of time or great idea? The idea looks great to me but would like opinions from any users or other. Thanks Tony.
rovercare
18th December 2011, 08:48 PM
I had them....now I don't
I reckon a heavy duty tube is better, Internal beadlocks still get crap in the beads and you still have to break the bead to clean them:(
BreakingBad
18th December 2011, 09:07 PM
i've had internals for a few years now. when i first got them i had problems with them losing pressure ie: both the tyre and beadlock pressure would equalize but that was due to a the installer (well known company) not installing according to the instructions. after getting them installed correctly they've been fine.
I had them....now I don't
I reckon a heavy duty tube is better, Internal beadlocks still get crap in the beads and you still have to break the bead to clean them:(
i've had tyres as low as 7psi in muddy water for hours and no problems with crap in the bead. what tyres did you have and what pressure did you run the beadlocks? i used to have swampers but currently have bfg muddies. i keep the beadlocks at min 40psi.
rovercare
18th December 2011, 09:53 PM
i've had tyres as low as 7psi in muddy water for hours and no problems with crap in the bead. what tyres did you have and what pressure did you run the beadlocks? i used to have swampers but currently have bfg muddies. i keep the beadlocks at min 40psi.
Simex centipedes, 35x10.5x16 on 8", 40 psi internals, 14-16 in the tyres, aggressive driving in the ruts would always see me with a leaky bead, I'm not the only one by far, I had less trouble with Simex tubes fitted, I never lost a bead with them, just niggly leaks
BreakingBad
18th December 2011, 10:30 PM
Simex centipedes, 35x10.5x16 on 8", 40 psi internals, 14-16 in the tyres, aggressive driving in the ruts would always see me with a leaky bead, I'm not the only one by far, I had less trouble with Simex tubes fitted, I never lost a bead with them, just niggly leaks
do you know where the niggly leak comes from?
maybe it's the brand of beadlock? i've got secondair.
rovercare
18th December 2011, 10:41 PM
do you know where the niggly leak comes from?
maybe it's the brand of beadlock? i've got secondair.
Crud forced into the bead, it's the nasty driving in ruts that does it, they were second air also, that's why nobody in racing runs them, years ago there were alot with staun and second air headlocks when they were new and in vogue, everyone promptly went back to externals
If they suit you and your driving that's great, just my experience differed, I never used to be nice to my stuff though
Tusker
19th December 2011, 07:53 AM
Had secondairs for a few years now, not a single problem. Never had crud in the bead. I keep min 30 psi in the bag.
While I've given up on Simexes, they were fitted to stop the damn things from peeling off the rim. Constant Simex problem. The secondairs fixed that once & for all.
Regards
Max P
BreakingBad
19th December 2011, 12:14 PM
Simex centipedes, 35x10.5x16 on 8", 40 psi internals, 14-16 in the tyres, aggressive driving in the ruts would always see me with a leaky bead
on a few occasions many many years ago i had 235/85 bfg's on boost alloys without beadlocks and i got crap in the beads after aggressive driving in ruts and sliding down into ruts. on both occasions it was a rear tyre and i hadn't lowered tyre pressures so they were >=40psi (i was new to 4WDing)
I had less trouble with Simex tubes fitted, I never lost a bead with them, just niggly leaks
If you use tubes and you get stuff in the bead the stuff will work its way into the wheel and rub on the tube until it wears a hole in the tube. is that the niggly leak you are referring to?
Anyway, from my experiences and what you've said i'm thinking that the forces applied to tyres by aggressive driving in ruts might be the major factor and if the force is great enough the bead will get stuff in it no matter what. having said that it seems logical that using tubes for this type of driving will give you more time before the tyre goes flat?
gusthedog
19th December 2011, 12:25 PM
Aren't internal beadlocks illegal in all states of Australia on road going cars? (He says with a heavily modified D2 with 235/85 tyres and no muffler and no engineering cert):D
BreakingBad
19th December 2011, 01:08 PM
Aren't internal beadlocks illegal in all states of Australia on road going cars? (He says with a heavily modified D2 with 235/85 tyres and no muffler and no engineering cert):D
i asked Vic Roads in 2007. this is the email i got back.
"There are two types of beadlocks recently seen on 4 x 4s.
Mechanical devices
These are bolted on and are definitely not allowed as they compromise the wheel and have a history of causing wheel failures. They appear to be extremely difficult to obtain acceptable balance and when they fail the outer portion seperates and becomes a hazard to other road users as well as causing a loss of control of the vehicle..
The inner tyre type
These are basically a specialisd reinforced tube that uses air pressure to hold the tyre bead against the rim. An extra hole is drilled into the rim to allow the extra tyre valve to be accessed. This type has been used for some time and no known failures have been reported. Providing that the hole is drilled and finished to an acceptable standard consistent the original, there should be no problem. However as with any work done it should be checked regularly for crack propogation or distortion as the vehicle operation that beadlocking allows may be harsher than the vehicle manufacturer allowed for in their component design."
Can't comment on other states.
rovercare
19th December 2011, 01:51 PM
on a few occasions many many years ago i had 235/85 bfg's on boost alloys without beadlocks and i got crap in the beads after aggressive driving in ruts and sliding down into ruts. on both occasions it was a rear tyre and i hadn't lowered tyre pressures so they were >=40psi (i was new to 4WDing)
If you use tubes and you get stuff in the bead the stuff will work its way into the wheel and rub on the tube until it wears a hole in the tube. is that the niggly leak you are referring to?
Anyway, from my experiences and what you've said i'm thinking that the forces applied to tyres by aggressive driving in ruts might be the major factor and if the force is great enough the bead will get stuff in it no matter what. having said that it seems logical that using tubes for this type of driving will give you more time before the tyre goes flat?
I had good success with tubes, if you hole a tube it's ruined, tubes don't form slow leaks with tubes I had no leaks, I then went internals, I would get crap in the bead almost every outing, so always a slow leak, both front and rear, without tubes or beadlocks I'd forever roll tyres off
If playing that seriously I'd just go externals straight up
Now I run radials on reversed rims, but the driving is alot more sedate:(
wagoo
19th December 2011, 03:19 PM
If playing that seriously I'd just go externals straight up
Now I run radials on reversed rims, but the driving is alot more sedate:(
Not that anyone would do it except for one bloke who shall remain nameless, but external weld on beadlocks cannot be fitted to standard 110/defender or reversed Disco steel rims. The Defender rims are reversed from the factory and because of the wide outer bead section it is impossible to lever the tyre over the rim flange in order for it to be sandwiched between the flange and the bolt on beadlock ring.
The reversed rims are less likely to pop a bead anyway, as the gradual 'ramp' of the wider outer section usually allows the tyre bead to slide back into place.
Internals? Between me and my mates we have tried them on 3 different vehicles and hate them. The problem is that no matter how carefull you are in squaring and centreing the tube and fabric tube sleeve, in order to fit the outer bead of the tyre over the rim flange you have to push a section of the tyres bead into the 'well' of the rim.This then tends to uncentre the beadlocks sleeve. Once the tyre is fitted and you begin to inflate it, there is no way of really knowing if the sleeve is centred as the tube pushes the sleeves beaded edge against the tyre bead. In many cases it doesn't centre and a portion of the tube 'bubbles' out between the sleeve and the rim and gets chafed away in use. The beaded edge of the sleeve will usually centre itself over the 'ramp' on the wider bead side of the rim but their is a sudden transition from 'well' to bead seat on the other narrow side.
I used to use drag racing bead screws, 16 per wheel at a dollar each with good results,But they are also illegal for road use. Now I use nothing except for safety lipped 7'' rims and haven't ever popped a bead on my Simex ET/ Interco Q78 combination, despite regularly running pressures in the 2-6 psi region on knarly twisty conditions. I use tubes but glue the valve stems to the rim so that if I get a puncture, the tyre deflates slowly or not at all just like with a tubeless arrangement.
Bill.
Tombie
19th December 2011, 04:26 PM
Aren't internal beadlocks illegal in all states of Australia on road going cars? (He says with a heavily modified D2 with 235/85 tyres and no muffler and no engineering cert):D
Nope :D Totally legal.
"Where the Desert meets the Sea"
'Did I mention some great 4WDriving is just 5 minutes from home?'
TonyC
19th December 2011, 04:30 PM
Hi Tony,
I run Second Air beadlocks on 6.5" 130 wheels and 255/85R16 BFG Muds, they have been in for about 5 years and have never given a problem.
I fitted them because
1) The 130 wheels are tube type, and I don't like tubes
2) I like the idea, not that I had had issues with popping beads on the previous car, an Isuzu County with Disco wheels.
That said I don't think I would go that way again, for my use they are a bit of a solution looking for a problem.
If I ever get a flat I will have to fix it myself as no tyre place will know how to deal with them, I just hope I can remember. (Last wheel alinement I got, I got the third degree from from the tyre people who had being asked to fit a set and and knocked it back as they didn't know any thing about them)
Hope this helps.
Tony
tonic
19th December 2011, 08:52 PM
Thanks for the input people, it has been great. I too was concerned about how you would centre them while fitting the tyre. The idea looks great. I dont intend to race, just normal touring with the ability to get out of trouble with a great 4x4 if needed. The idea of tubes and glued valve seems to me to be a great idea. Thanks again to all.
rovercare
19th December 2011, 09:24 PM
Not that anyone would do it except for one bloke who shall remain nameless, but external weld on beadlocks cannot be fitted to standard 110/defender or reversed Disco steel rims. The Defender rims are reversed from the factory and because of the wide outer bead section it is impossible to lever the tyre over the rim flange in order for it to be sandwiched between the flange and the bolt on beadlock ring.
The reversed rims are less likely to pop a bead anyway, as the gradual 'ramp' of the wider outer section usually allows the tyre bead to slide back into place.
Internals? Between me and my mates we have tried them on 3 different vehicles and hate them. The problem is that no matter how carefull you are in squaring and centreing the tube and fabric tube sleeve, in order to fit the outer bead of the tyre over the rim flange you have to push a section of the tyres bead into the 'well' of the rim.This then tends to uncentre the beadlocks sleeve. Once the tyre is fitted and you begin to inflate it, there is no way of really knowing if the sleeve is centred as the tube pushes the sleeves beaded edge against the tyre bead. In many cases it doesn't centre and a portion of the tube 'bubbles' out between the sleeve and the rim and gets chafed away in use. The beaded edge of the sleeve will usually centre itself over the 'ramp' on the wider bead side of the rim but their is a sudden transition from 'well' to bead seat on the other narrow side.
I used to use drag racing bead screws, 16 per wheel at a dollar each with good results,But they are also illegal for road use. Now I use nothing except for safety lipped 7'' rims and haven't ever popped a bead on my Simex ET/ Interco Q78 combination, despite regularly running pressures in the 2-6 psi region on knarly twisty conditions. I use tubes but glue the valve stems to the rim so that if I get a puncture, the tyre deflates slowly or not at all just like with a tubeless arrangement.
Bill.
Obviously externals with reversed rims don't work
I have reversed rims now, but as I say, I'm doing girly stuff, even then I don't get much chance:(
The internals would suffice if your not into fast stuff, everything I was doing was maximum horsepower fast smashing into ruts etc, not huge wheel travel slow stuff
Could always go speeway style, just silicon the tyres to the rims:D
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