View Full Version : Detroit locker for series one.
Andrew Morris
25th February 2012, 10:00 PM
Looking for a Detroit locker and a Detroit tru trac that would fit a series one with standard axles.
Does such a thing exist and what are the key specs I need to look for?
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langy
26th February 2012, 09:05 AM
The presumption is that you are wanting a replacement diff center for a Discovery built between 89 -99. Generally referred to as a 'Disco 1'.
'Series 1 ( & 2 & 3 or in roman numerals II & III) generally refer to the original Landrover products built from 1948- 85 (ish)
Back to your disco - prior to Chassis #SALL....MA081991, you'll be needing the diff version for 10 spline axles - after that they are 24 splines.
Search ' Trutrac' & 'Detroit locker' here on the forum - plenty of information
& Welcome.
wrinklearthur
26th February 2012, 09:20 AM
Looking for a Detroit locker and a Detroit tru trac that would fit a series one with standard axles.
Does such a thing exist and what are the key specs I need to look for?
Hi Andrew
Welcome aboard to the forum.
As Langy has said, Series I, II and III's are the earlier and original Land Rovers, to stop confusion we tend to refer to the Discovery series one as being a D1.
Early 3.54 : 1 ratio diffs were 10 spline and fitted to Stage one series three's, early Range Rover's and early Discovery's. Tru Trac centres are available for those diffs.
The mounting face for the 3.54 ring gear is further away from the centre line of the pinion, than a 4.7 when fitted into early Land Rover series one.
Because of the diameter of the smaller pinion in the 4.7's the carrier face offset then needs to be closer to the pinion centre line.
I have fitted a ring gear and pinion from a 135 Massey Ferguson into a 165 Massey Ferguson, to overcome the differences in pinion diameters, I made a spacer to fit between the carrier and the ring gear, but I would not do that on the already stressed and weak Land Rover diff.
Try this link to this mob, they may have something for you.
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110433585911'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_1049wt_952)
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isuzutoo-eh
26th February 2012, 09:25 AM
Be aware that a detroit locker will stress the axles greatly, and if an axle breaks the locker can be damaged.
I think Ashcroft Transmissions do a spacer for fitting aftermarket centres to the 4.7 cw&p.
LowRanger
26th February 2012, 12:04 PM
Do yourself a favour,and spend a bit more and fit aftermarket axles.The standard axles are like celery sticks.Loading them with a Detroit is asking for trouble.
Andrew Morris
26th February 2012, 10:32 PM
Thanks. Vehicle is a series one, not a discovery one. I have heard the axles aren't real strong. To strengthen them, can you just fit new shafts or does the whole axle need replacing?
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wrinklearthur
26th February 2012, 10:48 PM
Thanks. Vehicle is a series one, not a discovery one. I have heard the axles aren't real strong. To strengthen them, can you just fit new shafts or does the whole axle need replacing? ---
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Hi Andrew
The assumption here now is, you have the semi floating axles in the rear diff housing.
To keep the vehicle looking original, I would stick to those semi floating axles
and for a bit more traction only use a Tru Trak in the rear.
The Tru Trak by the way they work are a bit gentler on axles and the rest of the drive train.
As far as I know, after market, high strength, semi floating axles are not available as off the shelf replacements.
.
Andrew Morris
26th February 2012, 10:55 PM
Thanks. Advice appreciated
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123rover50
27th February 2012, 08:01 AM
I fitted fully floating S2 axles and disco diff into the original S1 housing.
You have to bolt on S2 hubs of course, and make a spacer from an old buggered drive flange to fit between the hub and axle flange. Thats all it needs. Then bolt it up with longer bolts.
I will post a pic if you want one. Its hardly noticeable.
Keith
wrinklearthur
27th February 2012, 08:59 AM
I fitted fully floating S2 axles and disco diff into the original S1 housing.
You have to bolt on S2 hubs of course, and make a spacer from an old buggered drive flange to fit between the hub and axle flange. Thats all it needs. Then bolt it up with longer bolts.
I will post a pic if you want one. Its hardly noticeable.
Keith
The difference in the half shaft, axle length, is about three quarters of an inch per side longer, from between the series one and to the series two.
Swapping the wider diff housing over from a short wheel base series two into the series one as the spring centre bolts are the same distance apart in both models, but that is a lot more work, although it does makes the obtaining some fiddly bits for the brakes a lot easier.
This then opens up the possibility of fitting fine spline axles into a series one, without loosing the visual appeal. :cool:
Next step, could be the fitting of disk brakes, but where do you stop?
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Andrew Morris
27th February 2012, 09:20 AM
Will check, but I think I have fully floating axle at the rear because mine is one of the very last series ones. Not that I understand the difference!
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wrinklearthur
27th February 2012, 01:43 PM
Will check, but I think I have fully floating axle at the rear because mine is one of the very last series ones. Not that I understand the difference!
Semi Floating-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=44035&stc=1&d=1330310496
Fully Floating-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=44034&stc=1&d=1330308468
Andrew Morris
27th February 2012, 02:40 PM
I take it you mean 'innies' vs 'outies' on the end of the hub. Semi floating has the inverted cover while fully floating has the pointy ends.
I will check when I get them back home.
uninformed
27th February 2012, 04:00 PM
For axle upgrades talk to Barry at Hi-tough Engineering on the Gold Coast. he is at Rycroft st, City Links etsate, Carrara.
Lotz-A-Landies
27th February 2012, 04:43 PM
For those who are a little pedantic, Hi-Tough fit 24 splines on the drive flange end, you can use the maxi-flanges or SIII 109" flanges with the round outside.
If you want the star shaped flanges, you need to find some who broach the original flanges with the 24 spline. I don't know if Barry will do it for you.
Diana
wrinklearthur
27th February 2012, 05:43 PM
For those who are a little pedantic, Hi-Tough fit 24 splines on the drive flange end, you can use the maxi-flanges or SIII 109" flanges with the round outside.
If you want the star shaped flanges, you need to find some who broach the original flanges with the 24 spline. I don't know if Barry will do it for you. Diana
Nuts! Do the 24 spline axles have a nut on their outside end, or are they the same as the Defender and have a circlip to keep them located.
I ask this as the drive flange may need some facing work.
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Lotz-A-Landies
27th February 2012, 05:57 PM
Nuts! Do the 24 spline axles have a nut on their outside end, or are they the same as the Defender and have a circlip to keep them located.
I ask this as the drive flange may need some facing work.
.AFAIK they have a circlip, but what is the relevance whether the flange is a round disk, the six pointed star or the hexagonal Maxi flanges?
123rover50
27th February 2012, 07:22 PM
Will check, but I think I have fully floating axle at the rear because mine is one of the very last series ones. Not that I understand the difference!
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If you already have full float axles you are halfway there.
Take them out and look after them as they are the rarest of the rare.
Slide in S2,s with the spacer. Its really only 5/8" thick.
Keith
Andrew Morris
28th February 2012, 09:29 PM
Semi-floating they are. Might just leave them standard for a while!
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Andrew Morris
29th February 2012, 10:01 PM
Thanks for your input. Have decided to stay standard until the hip pocket cn stand what sounds like a bit of investment.
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