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101RRS
9th March 2012, 12:48 PM
After jacking my car on the air compressor I am now in the process of putting in a new mounting bracket. However the top and bottom mountings on the actual air compressor are also bent and I need to straighten them out. To do this I will have to disconnect the air compressor from the wiring harness and the three pipes.

I have the workshop manual and it just says remove the three air pipes but does say how to actually do it.

The front pipe is no issue as I just undid the brass union but the rear two I am not sure about. The look as if they just prise out (the metal bits) of the air compressor but I do not want to do this in case it is wrong and I damage something.

So advice on how to remove the rear two pipes would be appreciated.

Also there is a large pipe (about 1.5cm across) that ends at the top of the air compressor but is not connected to it - seems to come from the rear of the car - any ideas what it is?

Thanks

Garry

101RRS
9th March 2012, 03:22 PM
The above question is not longer relevant as the plastic pipes got damaged :(so I cut them off :mad:- off course when the air compressor was completely free of the car the two pieces of pipe came off no issues:mad:.

So I have bought some more pipe and some brass connectors so that in the future all that will be needed is to unscrew the connectors rather than try and get the pipes out of the air compressor.

Now to put it all back together.

CaverD3
9th March 2012, 04:03 PM
They are quick connect fittings and you need to push the collar in and pull. Sometimes it needs cleaning and WD40.

101RRS
9th March 2012, 05:54 PM
They are quick connect fittings and you need to push the collar in and pull. Sometimes it needs cleaning and WD40.

There is nothing quick with those connections. They were a real pain to do and I could not do them when the compressor was in place and connected to the pipes - I cut them and have now replaced them with a brass join.

Putting the lot back in now.

WhiteD3
9th March 2012, 06:25 PM
After jacking my car on the air compressor

Been there, done that :angel: You only do it once.

marco110
9th March 2012, 07:55 PM
They are quick connect fittings and you need to push the collar in and pull. Sometimes it needs cleaning and WD40.

Exact: this is the right way!
Push the air tube to the compressor, keep the "edge" metallic (or plastic) button, then pull on the tube ...
Do not forget to disconnect the negative battery cable before any intervention or disconnecting a "connector"!

picture may be helping to understand ..
You can see the"keep the "edge" metallic (or plastic)"on the top ...

(sorry for my bad English)
http://www.forch.fr/documents/thumbs/1310142345_20112311035655_800x800_Fit_0_0.png

101RRS
9th March 2012, 08:16 PM
Been there, done that :angel: You only do it once.

Problem was that I already knew about the potential problem - just rushing as I was with a group and shoved the jack under the car in a hole that looked right - crack crack crack before I realised - too late.

The air compressor has been held in place with a rachet strap for the last 2 months and is working find - just a bit noisy as there is no insulation and is hard against the chassis.

Whoever designed that mount and the way it bolts up needs to be sent to a hell of having to remove and reinstall that bracket. Blind Freddy could design a better system - the top bolt will not go in as the top insulation cover is in the way.

Oh well I have all day tomorrow to try to get it in - even though it should be a 15 minute job.

~Rich~
9th March 2012, 08:35 PM
Many photo's here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/klausnahr/sets/72157627369427732/
In German but Google translate if required.
Marko below has the link to the D3 help instructions.

marco110
9th March 2012, 08:36 PM
Hi again...

More help here (with pics) : DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How To - Air Suspension Compressor replacement (http://disco3.co.uk/forum/topic67721.html?highlight=bracket)

hope is can help you !

101RRS
9th March 2012, 09:02 PM
Thanks - have those but the pipe clips did not work as advertised - it was only when the pipes were cut (noting the D3 site tutorial had to do the same thing) and the sir compressor removed that I was able to lever the pipes out. Even with the collars pushed in there was no release.

As I said before the whole design of the mounting system is crap and not worthy of the vehicle - whether it be D3 or RRS.

Garry

marco110
9th March 2012, 09:05 PM
As I said before the whole design of the mounting system is crap and not worthy of the vehicle - whether it be D3 or RRS.

Garry

I'm agree with that ................:angel:

CaverD3
10th March 2012, 09:42 AM
I'm agree with that ................:angel:

Especially the top bolt of the bracket. :mad:

I have had mine off a few times and the connectors have worked ok after cleaning and WD40. You need to push in the collar and push in the pipe. They work by forcing a metal seal against the platic pipe by air pressure. This can result in the colar biting into the plastic which needs to be freed. With 240psi it seals reaaly tight.

Graeme
10th March 2012, 03:15 PM
Especially the top bolt of the bracket. :mad:Initially I totally removed the top cover to gain access to the top bolt, which included refitting the cover after the top bolt was refitted - a bit of a struggle. However last time I removed and refitted the top bolt with the top cover in-situ by judicious use of 3/8 drive socket and extensions to get the top bolt from below the sill - a much easier way.

101RRS
10th March 2012, 04:01 PM
Well the piece of crap has finally did me in - just had a major dizzy attack while underneath the car so all work has come to a stop - dizzy attack most likely brought on by trying to put in work arounds.

The larger of the two air pipes would not come out and had to be cut off - with a lot of jiggling around with the compressor out of the car it finally came out - unfortunately the o ring inside was dislodged and the teeth on the collar were bent - the o ring has a piece out of it and needs to be replaced - long weekend so no action until Tues - o ring is a special heat resistant one so will take some effort to find a replacement.

I think I will take the air compressor to the local hose place and get a new connector installed - tempted to not put the same type type in and get it tapped out and put in a normal screw in brass connector.

I need to get some more 10mm plastic hose but of course the landrover stuff has a larger inside diameter (thinner wall) than normal high pressure 10mm plastic pipe. I may have to order a new complete section from Landrover $$$$$$$$$$$.

At the rear of the air compressor there is the above mentioned 10mm hose and there is a 8mm hose which is OK - what does the 10mm hose do?? Is it the intake for the air compressor and therefore low pressure???? or is it an outlet with high pressure to the system.

So at the moment the car has no air compressor and is at offroad height. On start with no air compressor fitted of course there is the fault - why does TR also not work - can understand height issues but not TR :(. I assume that when I get up to 50kph it is going to drop - how far?? All the way to the bump stops or to access or onroad. Is there a way I can get it to only go as far as onroad so I can at least drive the car until I get these things sorted?

As the air compressor is out of the car, should I take out the desiccant and put it in the oven for a few hours (at what temp?)

Cheers

Garry

CaverD3
10th March 2012, 04:27 PM
Fun isn't it? :Rolling:

The Outside diameter is what matters for the connections.

You can put the beads in the microwave until they change colour. I would seive before and after to get rid of the fine particles which can clog the filter pads.

101RRS
10th March 2012, 04:33 PM
Fun isn't it? :Rolling:

The Outside diameter is what matters for the connections.



The inside diameter also matters as there is a brass insert that goes in the end - with thicker wall tube having the brass insert in causes the outside to be a bit larger than 10mm and will not fit in the connector in the air compressor.

Graeme
10th March 2012, 04:43 PM
I assume that when I get up to 50kph it is going to drop - how far?? All the way to the bump stops or to access or onroad. Is there a way I can get it to only go as far as onroad so I can at least drive the car until I get these things sorted?I would leave it at off-road height. The non-functioning pilot exhaust valve wont stop air from being released from the springs so it should be able to return to normal height but who knows what logic might be applied. Anyway, wont you want it at off-road height to refit the compressor? I would remove the engine bay suspension ecu main fuse.

Graeme
10th March 2012, 04:53 PM
The 2 pipes at the rear of the unit are both low pressure - 1 is the air intake and the other the exhaust. I suspect the larger one is the intake but haven't been able to confirm that yet.

Edit: Exhaust is 10mm, inlet is 8mm.

Joiners are suposed to be available as LR spare parts.

CaverD3
10th March 2012, 05:22 PM
I assumed you were connecting tube to tube or your OEM fittings in the compressor were ok.

101RRS
10th March 2012, 06:19 PM
I would leave it at off-road height. The non-functioning pilot exhaust valve wont stop air from being released from the springs so it should be able to return to normal height but who knows what logic might be applied. Anyway, wont you want it at off-road height to refit the compressor? I would remove the engine bay suspension ecu main fuse.

Thanks - I have it up on ramps and can get to it - the compressor has now been in and out so many times I have its installation down to a fine art.


Exhaust is 10mm, inlet is 8mm. Joiners are suposed to be available as LR spare parts.

So as they are low pressure special connectors are not really needed so all I have to do is join the connector on the compressor to the cutoff 10mm exhaust pipe with some flexible rubber vacuum hose that I can get tomorrow.

Also - I can put the air compressor back in, connect up the 8mm pipe which is OK and it will all work OK without faults even with the 10mm pipe not connected at this stage - as long as I do not do any water crossings, where the exhaust vents to at this stage should not be an issue.

Unfortunately at the moment as soon as I lie under the car I get rehabilitating dizzy attacks so will try tomorrow when hopefully I am better.


I assumed you were connecting tube to tube or your OEM fittings in the compressor were ok.

The 8mm fitting in the compressor is OK, the pipe now has a join in it but is all serviceable. The problem is the 10mm fitting - the OEM one is damaged but given it is exhaust and low pressure it will hold. When I had to cut the pipe it meant it was now too short so I tried to join it as I had the 8mm one but the join for it is too long as the pipe needs to turn through 90 degrees next to the compressor. Not an issue as it is low pressure - rather than using a brass connector I will just use a piece of rubber hose. As long as it does not allow water ingress it should work OK.

Garry

CaverD3
10th March 2012, 07:02 PM
You could use some heat skrink over it to seal the join?

101RRS
10th March 2012, 08:18 PM
Good point - had not thought of that.

101RRS
11th March 2012, 01:02 PM
All work has come to a halt - climbed under the car this morning and within 30 secs my world was spinning around in a major dizzy/vertigo attack so I have some sort of medical issue related to balance rather than low blood pressure as I get extremely nauseous as well. Seems to be mainly related to climbing under the car but I remain a little dizzy after the main attack for a couple of hours.

An extremely unpleasant experience. Off to the doctors as soon as they open on Tuesday (if I can get in - and the medical system wonders why people go to hospital emergency rather than their GPs).

I will get a friend to put the compressor back in and connect it all up and fix the compressor exhaust pipe later.

Thanks for all the good information.

Cheers

Garry

discotwinturbo
11th March 2012, 09:39 PM
All work has come to a halt - climbed under the car this morning and within 30 secs my world was spinning around in a major dizzy/vertigo attack so I have some sort of medical issue related to balance rather than low blood pressure as I get extremely nauseous as well. Seems to be mainly related to climbing under the car but I remain a little dizzy after the main attack for a couple of hours.

An extremely unpleasant experience. Off to the doctors as soon as they open on Tuesday (if I can get in - and the medical system wonders why people go to hospital emergency rather than their GPs).

I will get a friend to put the compressor back in and connect it all up and fix the compressor exhaust pipe later.

Thanks for all the good information.

Cheers

Garry

Gary, that's no good at all.

Heres hoping that you find the issue soon, and work out a solution.

I hope all is well soon.

Brett....

Graeme
11th March 2012, 09:53 PM
within 30 secs my world was spinning around in a major dizzy/vertigo attack so I have some sort of medical issue related to balance rather than low blood pressure as I get extremely nauseous as well.
My experience has been that the nausea is a direct result of the dizzyness. Some 30 years ago I couldn't even stand-up which resulted in being carted off to hospital for a few days for all sorts of tests. They found nothing so assumed it was an infection on an auditory nerve and treated me for that. I hope your dizzyness passes quickly.

101RRS
11th March 2012, 10:12 PM
My experience has been that the nausea is a direct result of the dizzyness. Some 30 years ago I couldn't even stand-up which resulted in being carted off to hospital for a few days for all sorts of tests. They found nothing so assumed it was an infection on an auditory nerve and treated me for that. I hope your dizzyness passes quickly.

That is my guess as well - not low blood pressure. Seems to happen mainly when I am lying down under the RRS and I turn left.

Tomorrow I am going to turn the car around so when I lie down to work on it I turn right :o. The person I was going to get help from is not the greatest mechanic around - in fact has no idea - the air compressor bolt had him stumped even under my direct supervision and we managed to loose the end of the 10mm plastic hose ontop of the chassis so I think I will cut the hose in the spare wheel well and just run rubber hose with 10mm inside diameter from there to the compressor.

What should have been a 1 hour job has turned into an episode bigger than Ben Hur. The funny thing is that I have realised I did not even need to take out these pipes and could have done the job with them all in place:(.

Oh well - we live and learn. The upside the 101 is getting a bit more use than it normally gets.

But 'n' Ben
12th March 2012, 12:57 AM
Hi Garry, many years ago, I also suffered from dizzy spells, and nausea, when my head was quickly moved from the vertical, to horizontal, and vice versa.
Indeed, if I came up from under a car quickly, and stood up, I would just fall over, and no way of stopping that happening.
I was in the Royal Air Force at that time, and they 'Grounded' me. Lasted one month. Turned out that it was an 'Inner Ear' Virus infection, and therefore not treatable with medicines. Body had to fight it, hence the month to get over it.
Hope your ailment is no more complicated than that. Best of luck.
Don.

101RRS
13th March 2012, 04:48 PM
Still suffering but not as much as before - I noted that if I do not move my head I do not get dizzy so I had a lie down under the car with all tools and bits within hand reach and head in the right position :eek:.

I managed to get the air compressor back in - (that top bolt is now a breeze using a 1/2" drive, Uj and extension). The 8mm pipe (is the sucker) is in but I have not connected up the 10mm exhaust (confirmed by running the pump) so just dumps at the moment into the air compressor housing.

Runs all ok but when it dumps air it sounds like a bus dumping its air - the exhaust goes into a body cavity somewhere where it is muffled.

I understood that dealers sell the plastic pipe and joiners so I went to the local landrover dealer and got a blank look - response - oh we go down to Repco to buy it (hmm no you don't as the 10mm plastic is very thin wall and is unique). When pushed they then said they just replace the entire section - in reality they have no idea so I politely said thanks and left.

I will make up an end by drilling out some thick wall pipe so the brass fitting fits and then trim the external diameter back to 10mm (it expands when the brass fitting is inserted) and use it - just as well it is not high pressure.

This whole process has been extremely enlightening - great idea poorly executed - mounting system could be better, pump needs to a bit more robust (but I am surprised it lasts as long as it does), desiccant could be made from household grade and in a container that is changed with each service, the inlet and high pressure pipes are exceptionally small so I can see why the pump has to work so hard.

However with something like LLAMs fitted the pump actually needs to be used a lot less than standard as the suspension height is not continually being changed as speed goes up and down through 50kph.

Anyway - the workings of the air compressor is a little less mysterious now - thanks to everyone for your input.

Garry

Grappler
14th March 2012, 10:28 PM
Hey Garry,

Sounds like you may have Ménière's syndrome. My missus gets it from time to time. Her symptoms are same as yours. She uses a drug called Serc when she gets a giddy spell. Your doc should be able to diagnose

I bought a cheap two post hoist, to avoid grovelling on the floor.
Can sympathise with the compressor, mine failed but was covered with Allianz ext warranty, so didnt lift a spanner

Good luck with the dizzy spells

101RRS
15th March 2012, 12:06 AM
I went to the doc today and I have gotBenign paroxysmal positional vertigo (BPPV).


Basically old age resulting in deposits floating around in my inner ear canals - they keep moving when the fluid in the canals should stop and this is picked up by the balance system and tells the brain that I am still moving when I am not.

I have some medication to kill the dizzyiness and will have to do some exercises to get the crud in the canals to settle down.

My garage is not high enough to put in a hoist but I am thinking of extending out and rather than use roof trusses I am might use a free standing roof so I can lift up.

Car is Ok - but not having the plastic exhaust pipe on the pump at the moment has scared a couple of people walking past when it dumps excess air in the system - sounds like a government bus having a fart.

Cheers

Garry

101RRS
24th March 2012, 03:40 PM
It has been a couple of weeks since I have been under the car and not having had any more dizzy spells thought I would give it a go to finalise the piping on the air compressor and change the fuel filter.

Did the fuel filter first - got light headed but Ok. The air compressor also went Ok - now just has a piece of rubber hose joining the compressor to the plastic air exhaust pipe - exhaust now vents as designed to atmosphere in a rear compartment and no longer when venting air the car no longer sounds like a bus farting.

The interesting thing is that when removing the air compressor and the rear pipes will not come out there is no issue cutting the pipes but make sure you leave enough pipe to push a piece of rubber hose over. As they are low pressure, special connectors are not needed and all you need is two small pieces of fuel or vacuum hose, one with an internal diameter of 8mm and one with 10mm and you just slip them over the hose ends to join them.

Much easier to remove next time around and works perfectly.

Garry