Defender rear diff???

[cleelo44]

Gday folks,

I've been told by my mechanic that my rear diff is on the way out... it has a considerable clunk. And the oil has been replaced in the last 2 services because its been milky...

Just considering my options at this stage...

But can someone give me an idea of how much a 2nd hand reconditioned unit would cost?
Or how much it would cost to overhaul mine? Or how long it would need to be off the road? I'm aware it's going to be expensive...

Also what type of diff would it be? It's a 2000 Td5 Defender
Any chance it's a salisbury?

Also any recommendations as to where (melbourne preferably) i could get the problem rectified would be welcome...

And just for a bit of context, it hasn't been off road much of late... nor is it likely to in the near future...

Any help muchly appreciated
- Tom

[justinc]

Tom, MOST likely to be axles/ flanges worn out, or A frame ball joint. The sals is pretty much bulletproof.

Has he checked the axles and flanges for wear? the A frame ball joint?

JC

[oldyella 76]

Tom , I am out at Huntly send me a pm and I will have a look at it for you. It probably wont be the diff, the milkyness will probably be water getting in somehow. I have a jig if the flanges are worn. Did my td5 about 5 years ago and had no problems since.
Lindsay.

[cleelo44]

Thanks for the help Justin and Lindsay,

I replaced the drive flanges a while ago with heavy duty ones and the ball joint was replaced about 2 years ago...

Mind you i did all this myself and my mechanicing skills are pretty basic...

I will have a look at the axle/flange combination to check for wear...

Lindsay are the flanges you talk of the drive flanges or is there another possible point of entry for water... and thanks for the offer to have a look but I'm not living in Bendigo anymore (I should update that)... but I might call on you if I'm heading that way...
Glad to hear it is a salisbury...

-Tom

[Jojo]

Glad to hear it is a salisbury...



Wait!!! Until you tell us what truck you are driving no one will be able to tell you what diff you are having. 90s usually have Rover-diffs, whereas 110 and 130 used to have Salisburys (but not any longer, AFAIK).

I totally agree with the previous posts, primarily I would look elsewhere for the reason of the clonk: drivs shafts, flanges, TC...

Cheers

[uninformed]

were there any 90's in Oz in 2000?

what year did the p38 type rear diff appear in 110's and 130's?

[Didge]

If your front and rear diffs look totally different and the rear appears to have a flange that has a horizontal bottom edge about 75 - 100 long its a sals; see attached pic :)
chhers gerald

[101RRS]

Also what type of diff would it be? It's a 2000 Td5 Defender



Wait!!! Until you tell us what truck you are driving no one will be able to tell you what diff you are having.

Hmmm he did say 2000 Td5 Defender ;).

[cal415]

Take a look under the back -
This is a salisbury
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/375.jpg

this is a rover diff
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/376.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v463/qserv/county%20rebuild%20g3/?action=view&current=IMG_1358.jpg
easy to spot the difference...

As for getting water in it could be from plenty of places, drive flanges, hubs seals, diff face, broken or blocked breathers etc you will need to investigate more. I would start with the breathers, if the hose is off theres your problem, or if its blocked its probobly sucking water in through the seals when you hit a water crossing with the diffs nice and hot.

[Defendozer]

Hi Tom,
I think the most likely cause for the 'clunk' would be the A frame ball joint, from my experience with them they can wear out in two years regardless of how much off-roading you do. The rear salisbury on my 95 Def 110 had **** itself when I bought the car and to be honest I reckon you would easily be able to hear it if it was on its way out, myn had a really loud horrible 'whine' in it, one of the constant sort that slowly work their way into your head!!!
Anyway I got it rebuilt late last year for $850, the gears were still fine (thank god) but most of the bearings were terribly worn:( It took less then a week to get done so that was great, and wow the difference when I got it back was incredible!!

And I'm not sure about the water getting in, Ive never had a problem before.

Good luck with getting it sorted.. Cheers Remo.

[uninformed]

what about a pic of the p38 rear.....as for water, it very easily gets in. Hot housing contracts when it is rappidly cooled by water. This effect also creates a small amount of vacuum which sucks water in. If you have ANY oil leak thats where the water will enter. The A frame ball joints are known to wear. Get a better replacement, one that is adjustable and greaseable. BTW if a Sals you need to run the correct oil as they are hypoid and create alot of heat.

[cleelo44]

thanks for the help..it is a 110.. and with the help of the pics it is safe to say it is a salisbury diff...

the diff isn't whining at all at least i can't hear it over all the other rattles:)

with one back wheel off the ground (handbrake on tight) there appears to be some play between the drive flange and the axle (maybe 50mm at outside of tyre)... but the axle also moves a bit without the prop shaft moving...

does this indicate some slack where the axle meets the diff?

when i've got some more time i will investigate further...

[rick130]

FWIW most Sals diffs have a reasonable amount of backlash too, and it's really easy to get some slop between the drive flanges and axle splines, which can make for one hell of a clunk if less than smooth clutch uptake is used.

The slop between the drive flange and axles occurs if you haven't used an RTC3511 hub seal and removed the axle tube oil seals.
Standard, '90's on Defenders sued greased wheel bearings and the axle splines end up fretting from a lack of lubrication.
Reverting to the old style wheel bearing lubrication setup cures the dry drive flange problem.

Using that particular early model double lipped, spring energised seal also prevents water being sucked into a hot hub during water crossings, something that is all too common with the hub seals used in late model Defenders.

As for milky diff oil have you checked the state of the breather and tube ?
A split, grazed or detached breather tubes can easily let moisture into the diff.

[Didge]

Yeah, why is it that they've got so much backlash? It's trained me to be very judicious with the clutch uptake. As for the axles splines, my new (30,000km old) axles are already showing signs of slop with minimal off roading. Looks like a set of the good ones next time round. :)

[justinc]

Yeah, why is it that they've got so much backlash? It's trained me to be very judicious with the clutch uptake. As for the axles splines, my new (30,000km old) axles are already showing signs of slop with minimal off roading. Looks like a set of the good ones next time round. :)

An ARB locker will sort that out for you...:) They seem to have way less slop than the factory sals

JC

[Didge]

hehehe, funny of you to say that. Wait to hear from you on the postage
cheers Gerald

[justinc]

hehehe, funny of you to say that. Wait to hear from you on the postage
cheers Gerald

tomorrow i should be able to get back to you about freight, although had some bad news this evening so may make tomorrow a bit full on. Ill give you a call/ message anyway.

JC

[Didge]

Sorry to hear about the bad news Justin, hope it's not too serious. No problems with the timing from my end, just whenever you're ready; I can wait as long as you want - I'm not a priority at all.
cheers gerald

[CraigE]

An ARB locker will sort that out for you...:) They seem to have way less slop than the factory sals

JC
Very interesting, maybe just cause for me to get a locker.:D:D

[Bushie]

An ARB locker will sort that out for you...:) They seem to have way less slop than the factory sals

JC

Picked mine up this afternoon after fitting ARB lockers, and must say they certainly do appear to take out almost all the driveline slop.


Martyn

[cal415]

100% agree, the conversion to d60 ARB locker and new 1 peice axles has made a huge difference to my driveline slack.

[lardy]

Gday Cal,
I know this a somewhat old post, but what did you mean by one piece axles?
Regards
Lardy

[frantic]

Lardy, he's done a sal to Dana 60 internals conversion which gives a lot of benefits, much thicker axles, 35 spline, wider options for everything as a Dana 60 is common in USA.
Do a search on sal to Dana conversion or look through his county's thread which is a great looking machine. :D

[Vern]

Am guessing with the one piece axles, the flange and axle are one piece like early rangie etc..?