Tom, MOST likely to be axles/ flanges worn out, or A frame ball joint. The sals is pretty much bulletproof.
Has he checked the axles and flanges for wear? the A frame ball joint?
JC
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						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Gday folks,
I've been told by my mechanic that my rear diff is on the way out... it has a considerable clunk. And the oil has been replaced in the last 2 services because its been milky...
Just considering my options at this stage...
But can someone give me an idea of how much a 2nd hand reconditioned unit would cost?
Or how much it would cost to overhaul mine? Or how long it would need to be off the road? I'm aware it's going to be expensive...
Also what type of diff would it be? It's a 2000 Td5 Defender
Any chance it's a salisbury?
Also any recommendations as to where (melbourne preferably) i could get the problem rectified would be welcome...
And just for a bit of context, it hasn't been off road much of late... nor is it likely to in the near future...
Any help muchly appreciated
- Tom
Tom, MOST likely to be axles/ flanges worn out, or A frame ball joint. The sals is pretty much bulletproof.
Has he checked the axles and flanges for wear? the A frame ball joint?
JC
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberTom , I am out at Huntly send me a pm and I will have a look at it for you. It probably wont be the diff, the milkyness will probably be water getting in somehow. I have a jig if the flanges are worn. Did my td5 about 5 years ago and had no problems since.
Lindsay.
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						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Thanks for the help Justin and Lindsay,
I replaced the drive flanges a while ago with heavy duty ones and the ball joint was replaced about 2 years ago...
Mind you i did all this myself and my mechanicing skills are pretty basic...
I will have a look at the axle/flange combination to check for wear...
Lindsay are the flanges you talk of the drive flanges or is there another possible point of entry for water... and thanks for the offer to have a look but I'm not living in Bendigo anymore (I should update that)... but I might call on you if I'm heading that way...
Glad to hear it is a salisbury...
-Tom
Wait!!! Until you tell us what truck you are driving no one will be able to tell you what diff you are having. 90s usually have Rover-diffs, whereas 110 and 130 used to have Salisburys (but not any longer, AFAIK).
I totally agree with the previous posts, primarily I would look elsewhere for the reason of the clonk: drivs shafts, flanges, TC...
Cheers
Johannes
There are people who spend all weekend cleaning the car.
And there are people who drive Discovery.
 ForumSage
					
					
						ForumSage
					
					
                                        
					
					
						were there any 90's in Oz in 2000?
what year did the p38 type rear diff appear in 110's and 130's?
If your front and rear diffs look totally different and the rear appears to have a flange that has a horizontal bottom edge about 75 - 100 long its a sals; see attached pic
chhers gerald
Take a look under the back -
This is a salisbury
this is a rover diff
easy to spot the difference...
As for getting water in it could be from plenty of places, drive flanges, hubs seals, diff face, broken or blocked breathers etc you will need to investigate more. I would start with the breathers, if the hose is off theres your problem, or if its blocked its probobly sucking water in through the seals when you hit a water crossing with the diffs nice and hot.
Hi Tom,
I think the most likely cause for the 'clunk' would be the A frame ball joint, from my experience with them they can wear out in two years regardless of how much off-roading you do. The rear salisbury on my 95 Def 110 had **** itself when I bought the car and to be honest I reckon you would easily be able to hear it if it was on its way out, myn had a really loud horrible 'whine' in it, one of the constant sort that slowly work their way into your head!!!
Anyway I got it rebuilt late last year for $850, the gears were still fine (thank god) but most of the bearings were terribly wornIt took less then a week to get done so that was great, and wow the difference when I got it back was incredible!!
And I'm not sure about the water getting in, Ive never had a problem before.
Good luck with getting it sorted.. Cheers Remo.
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