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View Full Version : Front Propshaft refit...



Superhux
16th April 2012, 08:51 PM
Hi guys,

I have since had my front propshaft rebuilt as the UJ seized and sheared the yolk and totally pulled the shaft apart at the transfer case... Luckily it was at low speed i.e. <5km/h... all because I recognised the familiar metal on metal grinding sound....

Once it was rebuilt I read that it should've been rebuilt out of phase, however this was rebuilt and BALANCED back in phase.... Is this going to be a problem as also read that it was only to make it more adaptable to different levels...???

Also if it isn't a problem how do I get the bolts in the transfer case end???? Do I have to take that massive bolt out and move the flange forward???

Thanks
Dave Huxtable
1997 300Tdi
295000 km

It'sNotWorthComplaining!
16th April 2012, 09:06 PM
Hi guys,

I have since had my front propshaft rebuilt as the UJ seized and sheared the yolk and totally pulled the shaft apart at the transfer case... Luckily it was at low speed i.e. <5km/h... all because I recognised the familiar metal on metal grinding sound....

Once it was rebuilt I read that it should've been rebuilt out of phase, however this was rebuilt and BALANCED back in phase.... Is this going to be a problem as also read that it was only to make it more adaptable to different levels...???

Also if it isn't a problem how do I get the bolts in the transfer case end???? Do I have to take that massive bolt out and move the flange forward???

Thanks
Dave Huxtable
1997 300Tdi
295000 km

If you are talking about the bolts on the output flange that hold the tail shaft on ,then to remove them you will have to undo that big nut to remove the out-put flange, ( 30 mm I think) as the bolt heads are retained behind it by a big c clip, that's what hold the bolt heads forward.
A rattle gun makes eay work, you'll also need a new felt washer when refitting and It would be good to replace the oil seal whilst your at it.

MR LR
16th April 2012, 09:49 PM
I think what he means is the prop shaft cam apart and it was put together, but intead of the yolks being 90 degrees opposing they are aligned ???, should be okay, but may vibrate a little which will lead to premature uni wear

PAT303
16th April 2012, 09:53 PM
The uni's should be 45 degree's. Pat

geodon
17th April 2012, 08:06 AM
**Also if it isn't a problem how do I get the bolts in the transfer case end???? Do I have to take that massive bolt out and move the flange forward???**

Dave, is this appropriate?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-2-2a/147618-attaching-prop-shaft-park-brake.html

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