2 L excessive smoke?

[mfc]

ive done a wet/dry comp test on my engine and came up with the figures-->
110 130 130 130 dry
120 130 130 130 wet
with new plugs and points it runs fairly smoothly and relitivly quitely but blows a thick cloud of smoke when the accelerator is pressed ...it was fuming out the breather but an oil change and a short drive reduced that substantialy
my question is are the comp results acceptable ?
and
is the smoking a valve issue or a ring thing ?
cheers mark

[dennisS1]

What colour is the smoke? Is the engine hot or cold?
Black it just fuel.
Blue/gray its oil.

[wrinklearthur]

Probably only the inlet valve guides are worn.

[JDNSW]

I agree with Arthur. Worn valve guides and valve stem seals allow oil to be sucked down the valve stems when vacuum is high, i.e., when the throttle is closed, especially if the engine is turning fast. This oil is then carried into the combustion chambers when the throttle is opened, giving a cloud of blue/grey smoke that quickly stops. Similar smoke when pulling hard, especially at high rpm, will indicate worn rings and/or bore. Black smoke is unburnt fuel, usually a carburetter problem unless misfiring is noticeable. White smoke is steam, usually from coolant getting into the combustion chamber - definitely not good!

John

[mfc]

Grey smoke , hot and cold , it's no worse under load .


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[mfc]

I'm itching to pull it apart , but we're off for a 4 month drive on Friday morning ..
It has been sitting for 5 yrs minimum and I'd imagine fairly gunged up ... Do you see any issues with the one cylinder being lower than the other 3 or is that acceptable ?
Guess its easiest to start with the head when I get home



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[mfc]

Just trailed it with someone else driving and it let's out a substantial puff as you change down gears or initially as you accelerate heavily then little while being driven sedately


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[wrinklearthur]

The differences you found in the compression test are only a talking point and I wouldn't worry unless they get worse, then I would be looking for a burnt exhaust valve.

From the workshop manual;
Compression pressure (at starter motor cranking speed i.e., 300 r.pm. with engine hot and carburetter butterfly fully open)
...... 125 lb / sq. in. (8,8 kg / cm\2).
.

[chazza]

I'm itching to pull it apart , but we're off for a 4 month drive on Friday morning ..
It has been sitting for 5 yrs minimum and I'd imagine fairly gunged up ... Do you see any issues with the one cylinder being lower than the other 3 or is that acceptable ?


Buy yourself some engine oil detergent; the sort that is designed to strip gunge off rings, etc. I swear by Cost Effective Maintenance and Nulon - Google them.

You will need to do an oil change and change the filter as well, probably during your trip, unless you get time before-hand.

I don't think that 10 psi less on one cylinder is anything to worry about but clearing the rings etc. will make it run at its best,

Cheers Charlie

[JDNSW]

Does not seem to be a major problem. However, I would check the tappet clearance, especially the exhaust valves, as a tight tappet will soon result in a burnt valve.

John

[mfc]

[QUOTE=chazza;1678469]Buy yourself some engine oil detergent; the sort that is designed to strip gunge off rings, etc. I swear by Cost Effective Maintenance and Nulon - Google them.

You will need to do an oil change and change the filter as well, probably during your trip, unless you get time before-hand.

I don't think that 10 psi less on one cylinder is anything to worry about but clearing the rings etc. will make it run at its best,

Cheers Charlie[/QUte
lol na going in the defender 4 months in a series one would leave me divorced