Got Wood ?

[Fluids]

I do ... :D

... and it's a thing of beauty !












































... 'cause "My Shaft's A Woody!" :p



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/447.jpg



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/448.jpg


When I got home I told Mrs F I had a new fully greasable shaft ..... she didn't seem too impressed that Daddy's got a Woody :eek:

:p

[trevor]

Im getting wood...

Hopefully sooner rather than later...

[steveG]

I've had Wood for a while (and very happy with it).
Mine looks the same as yours, but is probably shorter ;)

Steve

[Rocky88]

I got wood today. Can't wait to put it in.

[Fluids]

With Belanglo boys night next weekend, and the Cross Border Gathering the following week I figured it would be a good time to get the TW shaft fitted.

Talk about a bitch to get the standard shaft out. When I bought the D2 one of the uni's was replaced before we picked it up (was flogged). The one at the diff end of the DC was changed (it has a grease nipple). The T/Case end uni & the diff end uni are still original ... 164,000km and no play. The new one that was replaced is fine, BUT, the play in the centre bearing was pretty noticeable ... latley, I can hear it rattling at slow speed and on over-run :eek: I will admit to it being a known issue for the last 40,000km, with regular checks, and monitoring it as it got progressivley worse (and it never got hot. I checked that constantly) ... and when the DC is bent to full angle the ball still has grease on/around it, BUT, the centre pins are obviously badly worn .... time to withdraw from the 40k lottery :D

Whose the goose who put super strength lock-tite on the propshaft nuts & bolts when they re-installed it!! ?? Duh !! :mad: The T/Case end was a bitch, and the diff end was 10x worse ... and 14mm spanners and sockets don't quite cut the mustard, but it's out, with plenty of expletives! Have to get new bolts & nuts ordered tomorrow as the old ones are totally ****ed!

Here's a few pic's of the old vs new ... notice how much more angle the Tom Woods shaft has compared to the standard shaft ?

New nuts & bolts in a couple of days and we're good to go.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/828.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/829.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/830.jpg

[Rocky88]

Only took you 4 months to fit it :p

[LowRanger]

Hey Kev
I hope you got the tool to grease the centre of the Cardan joint?
I got one when I got my shaft .

[rick130]

Been meaning to fax my order w/dimensions for the Deefer off for the last week.

Will ring and fax Tues. morning.

Found spline wear on the Patrol front shaft too t/night :(

Might send that one to Gibsons for a refresh.

Can't wait to say I have a fully greaseable Woody too.
Goes with my Big Horn/s :cool:

[Fluids]

Only took you 4 months to fit it :p

I was taught never to rush a good thing ... All good things come to those who wait :D

... And besides, it's not back in yet !!!

Sent from my iPad using Braille

[Fluids]

Hey Kev
I hope you got the tool to grease the centre of the Cardan joint?
I got one when I got my shaft .

Yes Wayne, I sure did ... However, a needle nose grease gun like we use for greasing chainsaw bar sprocket noses works just as well.

The "tool" I was sent was a plastic conical tit with a female thread in one end ... I have nothing it will fit too .... I think my needle nose grease gun will work just fine.

Sent from my iPad using Braille

[lewy]

chainsaw bar sprocket noses
great idea,why didn't i think of that:D

[rick130]

Yes Wayne, I sure did ... However, a needle nose grease gun like we use for greasing chainsaw bar sprocket noses works just as well.

The "tool" I was sent was a plastic conical tit with a female thread in one end ... I have nothing it will fit too .... I think my needle nose grease gun will work just fine.

Sent from my iPad using Braille

Excellent !

I have one of those nice, metal, German ones that Jak Max import :D

[Fluids]

Jobs done. Piece of cake getting it in ... got new bolts & nuts, 2 x 9/16" R/OE spanners, and because the Woody has better clearance around the bolt holes, there was enough room for the ring & open end of the spanners.

Re-assembled everything with anti-sieze, including the mating faces ... to grease the centre bearing in the DC, is going to require dropping the shaft as the grease point is on the inside of the arc formed by the DC join when the grease point is pointing downwards (vertical).

Might look at making a suitable 90deg adapter to fit the grease gun, which would enable greasing with the grease point at a horizontal position. Will have to be a real small steel tube bent 90deg ... the TW greasing adapter supplied won't fit in the gap.

The chainsaw needle nose grease gun is a good idea, but won't fit with the shaft on the vehicle ... :(

Now all I need to do is go for a test drive ... later :)

[d2dave]

Kev. How much coin do these things cost?

[twr7cx]

Why do you only do the front shaft and not the rear too?

[Disco Muppet]

I'll be getting wood once my current shaft goes, Slunnie pointed out I have one from a V8 :eek:
No chirps yet, that goodness :D

[d2dave]

Why do you only do the front shaft and not the rear too?

The rear shaft does not have a double cardon joint. Also if the rear lets go, and this should not happen as maintenance is simple on the rear, it is going to do a lot less damage. dmdigital had his front let go and it did 10K damage.
Punched a hole in the side of the auto amongst other damage.

[twr7cx]

The rear shaft does not have a double cardon joint. Also if the rear lets go, and this should not happen as maintenance is simple on the rear, it is going to do a lot less damage. dmdigital had his front let go and it did 10K damage.
Punched a hole in the side of the auto amongst other damage.

One way to prevent such damage would be to install a tailshaft loop to contain it in an event of letting go. I ran one on my old supercharged Ford Falcon.

If the rear tailshaft lets go at the front, that could still make for a dangerous occurrence on the road, it can 'pole vault' the ass of the vehicle.


Just looking at the Tom Wood's website at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application (http://www.4xshaft.com/Landrover.html) .

How hard is it to change the pinion flange? In order to have the more common four bolt STC3722 pinion flange.

A multiple double cardian joint shaft back and front would probably be nice for my 4" lift...

[d2dave]

Have heard a lot about front uni on the rear shaft causing pole volting, however mythbusters tried their hardest to do it, and they could not get a car to flip. If this was a likely scenario, you would think that ADR's would require a safety ring.

[Fluids]

Kev. How much coin do these things cost?


Dave ... about $600 delivered to me ... Procomp in Vic .... or direct from Tom Woods in USA ... but the savings ex US are only around $50 or so, so I purchased locally.

... considering a genuine LR shaft is about $750 ..... :angel:

[Fluids]

Why do you only do the front shaft and not the rear too?

Main reason, is that the front shaft is not serviceable (no greasing points).

by the time the uni's are worn, and it's time to replace them with greasable ones, the centre bearing in the DC join is probably stuffed, and while it can be repaired, the centering pins are usually worn to the point that the whole DC needs replacing .... and even if you are lucky enough to find the pins are OK, and you can replace the centre bearing, you STILL can't grease the centre bearing once its replaced ... :angel:

The update D2 has a boot over the sliding join, with no grease point available ... it's not a spline, but a series of balls (like bearing balls). Sealed for life.

Plus, if you do a lift, now I've had the genuine shaft out, the LR shaft doesn't articulate anywhere near as much as the TW DC does, so the increased angle causes the LR DC to fail sooner.

The rear tailshaft has grease points, and is serviceable :angel:

[rick130]

One way to prevent such damage would be to install a tailshaft loop to contain it in an event of letting go. I ran one on my old supercharged Ford Falcon.

If the rear tailshaft lets go at the front, that could still make for a dangerous occurrence on the road, it can 'pole vault' the ass of the vehicle.


Just looking at the Tom Wood's website at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application (http://www.4xshaft.com/Landrover.html) .

How hard is it to change the pinion flange? In order to have the more common four bolt STC3722 pinion flange.

A multiple double cardian joint shaft back and front would probably be nice for my 4" lift...

Slunnie has a pretty capable and lifted Disco (IIRC it has a 4" lift) and he's only running a single DC front and rear.

www.slunnie.com - Aussie Built Rovers (http://www.slunnie.com/D2.htm)
www.slunnie.com - D2 Prop Shafts/Tom Woods shafts (http://www.slunnie.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=7)

You'd only need double DC's with a extreme angles on the prop shafts.

[twr7cx]

Have heard a lot about front uni on the rear shaft causing pole volting, however mythbusters tried their hardest to do it, and they could not get a car to flip. If this was a likely scenario, you would think that ADR's would require a safety ring.

I have seen photographs of a few vehicles that this has happened to. Admitedly most were race/drag cars which were required to have the tailshaft loop and the other one was a heavily modified street car.
As I said above I fitted one to my old Falcon as with the supercharger and other work done to it, I was putting a lot more power and torque into the tailshaft than Ford were considering when they designed it.
But I will admit I have not seen evidence of it occuring to a standard vehicle.

[twr7cx]

Slunnie has a pretty capable and lifted Disco (IIRC it has a 4" lift) and he's only running a single DC front and rear.

www.slunnie.com - Aussie Built Rovers (http://www.slunnie.com/D2.htm)
www.slunnie.com - D2 Prop Shafts/Tom Woods shafts (http://www.slunnie.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=17&pos=7)

You'd only need double DC's with a extreme angles on the prop shafts.

Yeah, it's not necessarily needed, but they look cooler! (would depend on pricing but). They're on my list of things to do then, need to finish this TC and rack first but.

[twr7cx]

Just looking at the Tom Wood's website at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application (http://www.4xshaft.com/Landrover.html) .

How hard is it to change the pinion flange? In order to have the more common four bolt STC3722 pinion flange.

Any thoughts or comments on changing the pinion flange on the rear differential?

[twr7cx]

Dave ... about $600 delivered to me ... Procomp in Vic .... or direct from Tom Woods in USA ... but the savings ex US are only around $50 or so, so I purchased locally.

... considering a genuine LR shaft is about $750 ..... :angel:

I was quoted $579.00 USD from TW for the multiple cardian shaft. Going to speak to Procomp and see what there price is. Is this the right mob, http://www.procomp.com.au/ , Pro Comp Australia?

[Fluids]

Try http://www.jeepkonection.com.au

I just rang them - tel:03 8795 7525

Sent from my iPad using Braille

[twr7cx]

Slunnie has a pretty capable and lifted Disco (IIRC it has a 4" lift) and he's only running a single DC front and rear.

Tom Woods recommends the Multiple Double Cardian for lifts over 3"'s. I have now ordered one from him - not cheap at $749.00 delivered.

[Disco Muppet]

Tom Woods recommends the Multiple Double Cardian for lifts over 3"'s. I have now ordered one from him - not cheap at $749.00 delivered.

That's about what a stock LR one costs, and when you consider how much better a product your getting, it's not such a bad thing.

[twr7cx]

That's about what a stock LR one costs, and when you consider how much better a product your getting, it's not such a bad thing.

Yeah, I was lucky enough to check out one at Justin's the other day. A customer had purchased a Multiple Double Cardian to have fitted to the front of his D2 after the original tailshaft had failed. No doubt it's definitely a high quality product, so worth the coin.

[Zute]

Just placed an order with Jeepkonection. im getting wood.:banana:
I got 280000 ks out of my old one, but geezes the bolts on the front were imposible to get off. out came the grinder, job done. just need new bolts.
any one know if hey come with the wood prop shaft ?

[steveG]

Just placed an order with Jeepkonection. im getting wood.:banana:
I got 280000 ks out of my old one, but geezes the bolts on the front were imposible to get off. out came the grinder, job done. just need new bolts.
any one know if hey come with the wood prop shaft ?

No bolts supplied when I bought mine direct from TW.

Steve

[d2dave]

Why does a D2 have a DC joint when a D1 does not? What is different between D1 and D2 in the drive line that requires a DC joint?

[Fluids]

Dave, I believe in part, that it has to do with reducing vibration transmitted from the driveline back through the chassis and body. NVH ?

Same reason the d2a front propshaft doesn't have a spline join, but a series of roller balls (like in a bearing) set into one end of the "spline" area, which run inside a "race" in the end of the other shaft half. Apparently the splined joins had a tendency to bind slightly under acceleration, again, transmitting noise and vibration into the cab.

Personally, since fitting the TW front shaft, I have noticed no increase in noise or vibration ... In fact probably a bit less vibration, but the DC join in the old front shaft did have a bit of play and slop in it.

... And new nuts and bolts were sourced overnight from Karcraft in Sydney.

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[d2dave]

I now have wood also. Went to Melb today and came home with a nice shiny new well greased black shaft. Also picked up a pair of Fyrlyts while I was there.

[winaje]

I now have wood also. Went to Melb today and came home with a nice shiny new well greased black shaft. Also picked up a pair of Fyrlyts while I was there.

Dave, where did you get the shaft from, and how much please? Were they a stock item?

Thanks

[d2dave]

A mob in Hallam called Jeepkonection stock them. I rang them and and they quoted me $600. R2D2 works at a truck place and he got it for me at trade price, cost me $522.