Optima Battery into a PUMA? Barrrrp

[spudboy]

Well - it can sort of be done, but not all that neatly.

We are off next weekend to Lake Eyre with a couple of motorbikes and the PUMA, so thought I'd drop in an Optima blue top, like I've got in the TD5 130. The old OEM battery seemed fine, but it was 5 years old.

So far, my "10 minute job" is up around an hour, and the end is not yet in sight.

First you have to make your own retaining system, because the new PUMA battery clamp only holds in a rail at the bottom (which the Optima doesn't have). That took 20 or 30 minutes.

Then, it is a tight fit because the Optima is quite a bit higher than the original. Never had an issue on the TD5.

To top it off, the pins on the Optima are thicker than the bolts on the OEM battery, and as I drilled out one of the connectors for my CTEK charging connector the drill caught and wrapped 50mm of wire around he drill and snapped off the connector. So, now I need a trip to an auto store to get a new ring connector :mad: and then resolder a few things.

Hmmmmm....

[SimonM]

Yeam mate. I feel your pain. I have had a couple of jobs like that lately :mad:.

[Drover]

Last weekend I upgraded my dual battery system in the SVX.

For last 2 years I have had a Red Arc smart battery isloter/solinoid that has performed without fault.

Recently at the 4x4 show at Rosehill Race Course I spoke to the sales rep from Red-Arc about an upgrade. I decided on and purchased them new "1225 Red Arc In vehicle Battery Charger". Supposed to provide an integrated charging system that increases the ability of the alternator to charge the second battery.

At the same time I installed a new Yellow Top Optima battery. Renewed all the wiring, making it lot simpler and neater.

Red-Arc state that the new dual battery system will increase battery performance by 20-25%, we will wait and see.

I also installed a new "Piranha" Dual battery tray. It fitted a treat, while providing a lot better access to both battery terminals.

Time will tell if the second battery performance increases, but I can state that the volts of the second battery have increased from an average of 12.5v to over 13v in last week.

[spudboy]

Drover - does your earth terminal hit the underneath of the seat pan sliding plate thing? I can just slide the sheet cover back but it's a fight to get it past the -ve clamp.

[Drover]

I have got about 5mm of clearance, but if you push the seat pan sliding plate thing down you can feel it touches the earth terminal on the second battery, no big deal everything is earthed to the chassis anyway.

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and why on earth would fit a device that limits the charging ability of your battery.

These DC/DC devices can charge a battery to a higher state but only if you drive long enough.

Now if you are just topping your battery up then fine they do a great job, but if you need to charge a low battery, these devices will not be given the time they need to fully charge an ordinary battery.

In the case where you have Optima batteries, Drover, you are literally strangling the Optima battery’s ability to be rapid charged.

If you had simply wired through the isolator to the battery, you could charge a VERY low Optima to a near fully charged state in about an hours drive and fully charge it in 1.5 hours.

You can easily charge these batteries from a very low state to 90% SoC in the first hour of driving so the claim that the DC/DC device will increase the battery’s performance by 20-25% is pure fiction and is only a case when the battery is at the other end of a long THIN cable run, like in a camper trailer or caravan.

[spudboy]

Hi DriveSafe - I've got a quick question if you know anything about the CTEK "Comfort Indicators".

They indicate the level of charge with 3 LEDs (green/yellow/red); attach to the battery permanently; have a quick connect to a CTEK charger. Cost me $25. Makes it really easy to see the level of charge and easy to re-charge as you don't have to lift the seat to get to the battery.

This is a link: http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/product/10015/ctind382.html

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/338.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/339.jpg
Anyway - I was wondering how much they themselves actually flatten the battery by monitoring the battery and flashing all the time.

The 110 only gets driven once every 3 or 4 weeks, so is this thing actually discharging the battery itself, or is it so negligible that it is irrelevant?

Thanks
David

[drivesafe]

Hi David and sorry mate but that is nothing more than a glorified voltage monitor.

As to how much power it uses, this info should be supplied with any manual that came with the device.

David, can I make a suggestion, I know it is a pain in the butt having to open the seat when ever you need to access the batteries but for what you want to do, I have 30 amp Anderson PowerPoles on a short length of cable connected to every 12v battery I have, both in the workshop and on my vehicles.

I also have a number of multi meter test leads made up with the probes cut off and a set of 30 amp Anderson PowerPoles fitted to the test leads.

With this set up I can do a voltage check of any battery using one hand instead of trying to do a balancing act with the meter and trying to hold the two probes in place.

Furthermore, I have 30 amp Anderson PowerPoles fitted to all my battery chargers, so I can make a connection to any battery without messing around alligator clips.

I also have 30 amp Anderson PowerPoles on all my inverters and just about everything else that is a low to medium current drawing appliance.

Back to you gadget, if you use any volt meter to check the state of a battery’s charge, it only works if the battery has a small load connected to it while you take the reading.

If you have it connected while driving, it will not give you the battery’s voltage once the motor is started, it will only show your alternator voltage.

If the battery is not in use for some time, the battery can actually be totally stuffed but shows a good voltage level until you apply a load and the voltage then goes QUICKLY south.

As above, you are far better of using a cheap digital volt meter and just learn how to use it to get the info you need.

How is a couple of pics of the 30 amp Anderson PowerPoles

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/680.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/681.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/337.jpg

[spudboy]

Thanks for all that! I actually have those exact same connectors to connect the battery to my fridge, or alternately a fluro light. Easy to change and nicely made. Bit tricky to poke the connectors down inside if you don't have the special "Crochet" tool but other than that easy to use.

I found out a bit more info on the CTEK indicator:

Green is above 12.7 volts
Yellow is between 12.4 and 12.7 volts
Red is below 12.4 volts

So are you saying that even if the green is flashing - that the battery might only be over 12.7v but only without a load on it? What conditions would it be over 12.7v and not start the engine? We were hoping to use it to monitor the battery when running the fridge overnight and just unplug the fridge if the light went yellow or red. Bad idea?

We only have a single battery in this car, and not enough time to organise a dual battery system before we leave. This was my quick and dirty solution.

Here is the advertising blurb:

CTEK Power Inc Battery Chargers - CTEK56382

Don't be kept in the dark about the status of your battery's charge! CTEK's Comfort Indicator lights up w/ all the information you need to keep your battery healthy and fully charged.
Features:

Works w/ all CTEK 12V Comfort Connect chargers

Easy-to-use system allows you to plug in charger without first removing indicator

Allows quick-glance access to your vehicle's battery-charge level
Simple, traffic-light-style display demystifies charging "mumbo jumbo"

Green: Battery is in good condition and does not need to be charged
Yellow: Battery should be charged to avoid damaging stratification
Red: Battery needs charging to enable restart

Equips you w/ the information you need to prolong the life of your battery

Properly charged batteries last longer - saving you time and money




Specs:

Application: all CTEK 12V Comfort Connect chargers

Chargers that have the orange oval connector

Model: 56-382
Eyelet-terminal size: 8.4 mm
Battery cable fuse: 15A
Battery cable length: 16"
Includes 1 battery-indicator cable w/ 8.4-mm eyelet terminals
5-Year warranty


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/333.jpg


CTEK Comfort Indicator wiring cables plug together w/ any Comfort Connect end plug and are compatible w/ CTEK Comfort Connect 12V chargers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/334.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/335.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/336.jpg


The simple-to-read, traffic-light styling of CTEK's Comfort Indicator panels allows quick and easy evaluation of your battery's charge level.

[Tombie]

I'd put money on it the light would go Yellow overnight :cool:

[drivesafe]

Green is above 12.7 volts
Yellow is between 12.4 and 12.7 volts
Red is below 12.4 volts

Hi again Spudboy and Skuilnaam is on the money, but your battery will still have heaps of power left in it..

The voltage levels you have posted up are for OPEN CIRCUIT voltage readings and are used to measure batteries that have been in a No-Charge/No-Load state for at least 24 hours.

If you want to keep an eye on your battery while you are away, that device is totally useless.

Here is a chart that you can use while small loads connected to your battery, like your compressor fridge, using an ordinary digital multi meter.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/640.jpg

[Nera Donna]

On the physical fitting side of things.
This is what I came across fitting an Optima Yellow top battery and the standard LR battery together with a Piranha Dual battery tray.

Had to remove the Aft wheel brace retaining clip and use the hole for a retaining bolt on the new tray.

Had to trim one side of the original battery ‘foot’ to fit the tray.

Still had to modify the tray due to the battery width. I intend to modify the tray again when the original gives up the ghost and I replace it with another Optima battery down the track.

Height difference between the two batteries created an issue with the ‘hold down clamp’.

[Nera Donna]

Tried using the space provided with the Optima battery, but that just transferred the problem from one battery to the other!

Drives side of battery tray/passenger side of battery tray installed. (R/H side – L/H side)
Had to install and ‘crimp over’ the battery hold down clamping bolts prior to installing the tray otherwise I could not get them in with batteries in place. I did try…

All in. Modified and install a piece of plastic packing to make up the difference in height between the two batteries. Also used two flat ‘tie-down-straps’, one on each battery to make doubly sure things were secure. (Didn’t take any photos of straps installed)
I didn’t expect to run into these dramas during installation, but there you go I guess. :Thump:

[Drover]

My fitted mine without an issue, other than the height between the two batteries. With this I found the clamp just bent its self down as it tightened up.

I mounted mine further towards the rear of the seat box to allow the new "Award Winning" Red Arc 1225 BCDC dual battery In Car Charger (That is not a waste of money) to mount at the front of the box.

Cheers

[Tombie]

Just remember that the nature of a person is to always justify their purchase or idea / ideal.

In much the same way you cannot convince a driver of an overpriced, over rated Toyota Land Cruiser that a more affordable Land Rover is better value and performance....

[drivesafe]

In much the same way you cannot convince a driver of an overpriced, over rated Toyota Land Cruiser that a more affordable Land Rover is better value and performance....

And there are far cheaper ways to get a set up that gives far better results with heaps of advantages over what any of these DC/DC devices can ever hope to do.

Just can't see the value of them.

[dmdigital]

Regarding the Optima, I have an Orbital (basically the same battery) as my second battery in the Puma. I put a square of rubber over the whole thing to stop the earth pole shorting out on the battery compartment.

[drivesafe]

I have an Orbital

Hi dmdigital, thats another good battery with similar characteristics to the Optima, including the fast charging capability.

What size ( ampere hours ) is it and how much was it?

[dmdigital]

Can't recall what I paid for it but it is rated as 750CCA and 50Ah. I know this is low but it will suffice my needs and also has clamp on and screw down connectors as well as being vibration proof.