Defender questions

[fesm_ndt]

Ok please excuse my ignorance as my last Land Rover was a Lightweight and they are not very complex.

Finally picking mine up on Monday after 3 months of delays as so was looking up several items in google which got me thoroughly confused.

- What model Salisbury is in the back of 110's (pre puma of course)?

- What is this front Wolf diff fitted to later Defenders and Disco II's?

- Ok fitting a disco transfer box is useful as has taller ratios. Then I see this huge debate about CDL fitted and not fitted to certain Disco. So if I whack the Disco box on do I have to worry about the CDL bits and pieces?

- 300tdi auto from Disco I hear is bolt in swap, with the pieces. Anyone got a picture of a floor shifter, instead of the seatbox and a wiring diagram to fit the electrical interlock?

I have to stop googling as I am going blind

[Reads90]

Well what 110 do you have

I am guessing by the fact your are talking about a 300tdi disco then you have a 300 tdi one

If you change the transfer box to disco one , no problem as all the disco 1 had CDL is was just the early Disco 2 that did not .

But easier just to get a full auto box and transfer box out of a disco one. The best way to fit the auto to defender is to get an aftermarket 50th kit

This is my brothers defender

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m282/reads90/th_657fe579.jpg (http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m282/reads90/?action=view&current=657fe579.jpg)

Wolf doffs are 4 pin and rare and don't think you will have one if you have a 300tdi unless you or someone has changed it . Which in Aus it is cheaper and easier to put in an Arb locker which will make a rover diff 4 pin anyway. It will have the same diff as 90's Disco1 and late RRC'S have front and rear as standard

The Salisbury axle is closely related to the Dana 60 axle ( parts are interchangeable and dimensions the same) . If you have a 300tdi it will be a 24 spins if a later one and disc brakes. If you want to get this stronger then the quickest way is to use high tough shafts and an Arb 4 pin locker

Hope this helps

Ali

[Blknight.aus]

the sals is an 8HA, its under all LWB series, counties, perenties some rangies, most defenders up to 2003.

The "wolf" diff you are refering to (assuming I've interpreted your question correctly) is a p38 diff as fitted to rangies, Disco 2s and post 2003 deefers. stronger than the original Disco 1 rear diff, weaker than the sals unit. (on edit...) apparently I havent interpreted correctly ... your talking about the 4 pin front and not the rear. Its not fitted OEM in Aus, Its usually cheaper to fit a soft locker or on demand locker.

the Center diff lock was omitted from about 2001-2004 some vehicles have all the internals for a Center Diff Lock fitted but no selector others have non. Check on the top of the foot of the Tcase for a small threaded shaft with 2 flats ground on it at the bottom. If the Tcase has that then you have A CDL in the case and can fit it. I dont Advise fitting the disco Tcase to a deefer as the deefer runs taller tyres and the increase in ratio combined with the taller tyres will hurt the driveability with the TDI fitted. A tweaked TDI will do the job but its still not much fun.

The wiring is for the neutral start interlock is fairly simple to work out, using a multi meter with a continuity indicator on it pace the gearbox through the gears untill you find a pair of wires on the electrical plug that are open circuit when in gear and closed circuit when in neutral. Wire the starter solenoid signal wire to these so that the original starter wire from the ignition goes into one wire, down to the box, back from the box and then onto the starter solenoid terminal.


hope that helps.

[fesm_ndt]

Cheers guys, yes a 1998 300tdi 110

lots of good info.

I am toying with putting the auto in as changing up and down in traffic can be a drag if your left knee is crappy. But on one hand I like the idea of being able to push start a 4x4. I can get the Disco box and transfer case off a 300tdi disco quite easilly with all the bits.

I was curious about the front diffs as sometime these extra beefier bits are unknown up here, but td5's are a bit rare in the junkyards, but plenty 300tdi. I also have a pretty good relationship with several of the military yards so I can pick and choose. But that gives me access to Land Rovers, Pajeros, Pinzgauers, Stonefields and some Korean jeeps to scavenge from

Also ditto about the rear diff as knowing what else it may or may not be fitted to opens up other leads for me.

So the CDL, I would have to install another actuator? The 300tdi disco is cut in half so I can crawl under it etc and see whats there.

PS nice Defender :)

[fesm_ndt]

ok on with the daft questions..........

As the 300tdi, died after I bought it, the next day and after seeing the lack of quality in workmanship (picture monkeys allowed to play with 10lb ballpein hammers) I will rebuild it myself.

Ok the list of bits:

- gasket/seals = coming
- crank bearings = coming
- oil pump = coming
- paint = coming (cant get engine enamel here)
- pistons
- oil pressure valve
- lifters

- new complete head with bolts/valves etc
- turbo (I can get that rebuilt here)
- thermostat (anyone got high temperature country part numbers)
- glow plug
- rocker shaft set
- push rod set
- injectors (will look at overhauling or new)
- camshaft (maybe as can't be buggered measuring it and the engine age and previous maintainence by idiots). Odd no new 300tdi camshaft on ebay tonight
- crankshaft and conrods (only problem these bits are quite pricey, compared to the rest). I can cracktest these anyway
- sump (as the current one looks like it was used in gladiators)

Water pump and timing belt are new already, but will want to confirm the modified tensioner is installed, will be a question to the forum after some piccies.

Anything else I am missing?????

Oh, before I forget..... regarding the auto box question above. Anyone got piccies of the auto box shifter in the same hole as the manual?

I seen it once before and my understanding is it can be done, just needs a longer cable, which is easy