Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

[gromit]

Amazing skill on the Horse! Congratulations on the new job as well.

Thanks,

As someone once told me, start off with a block of wood and chisel off the pieces that aren't a horse......

There was a lot of help with the basics at the local Woodwork Club, I've then gone off at a tangent and made things that nobody else has tried. The horse above is a G&J Lines Jubilee Rocker. I found a picture, sketched a design and made the rest up as I went along.
Had some minor problems like the knees/elbows hit the curved support frame so had to shave a bit more off and I'm also still worried about the strength of that curved support section.



Colin

[mick88]

Congratulations on the job!
Dam good job on that rocking horse too!

Cheers, Mick

[gromit]

I had a look at the horn over the weekend.
Although it sort of worked connected directly to a battery it turned out the insulation was breaking down which ended up becoming a short circuit.

Took it apart and the diaphragm was very rusty, internals looked OK but the insulation was decomposing.

Found another horn which didn't work, drilled out the rivets and all looked OK inside. Turned out it just needed the contacts cleaning. Dragged a strip of wet & dry throught the contacts a few times and it came back to life.
Just need to make a gasket (one broke as a I pulled it apart) and decide whether to look for rivets or just bolt back together.

The original horn is on the left, the one on the right had a 'tide mark' inside so they all fill with water if mounted incorrectly. There is a small hole in the diaphragm which either lets water in or air escape depending on which way the horn is mounted.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/911.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2619_zps60321877.jpg.html)



I've kept the old horn it may be useful for parts. I could also source some copper wire from a motor re-winder and re-wind the coil if I ever get desperate.


Colin

[gromit]

Gaskets made, horn then re-assembled using some aircraft rivets I found.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/879.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2622_zpsd2d72c6d.jpg.html)


I sprayed it satin black, once it's dry I'll fit it.


Colin

[gromit]

Start a new job on Monday, just had 3 weeks off and still haven't found much time to work on Wallit.

After spreading Lilydale toppings all morning I decided it was time to sort out the electrical gremlins.

First job was to install the new indicator switch. Looks like a pattern part from the box it came in but better than the old one.
Straightforward job, most connections are through a multi pin plug just had to remove the dash to locate a couple of the flying wires, rest went to the fuse panel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/646.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2666_zps39bbf516.jpg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/647.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2667_zps2bbdd572.jpg.html)


Decided to check out the ignition switch because you have to jiggle it a bit to get it to work sometimes. I got a pattern part but thought I'd have a go at repairing the old one. Noted the wiring colours on the switch body beside each Lucar spade.

Three tabs have to be bent back.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/648.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2669_zpsc55ba74f.jpg.html)


Then it pulls apart, damaging a retaining mechanism for the nylon part.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/649.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2674_zpsdcb3b7d1.jpg.html)


No wonder the contact was intermittant.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/650.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2672_zpsc0f63b12.jpg.html)


Cleaned it up, applied some silicon grease then had a couple of attempts at reassembling it. The retaining part that broke off holds it together to make assembly easier, because it was broken the assembly was slightly harder.

Held it together and checked it worked, then bent the tabs back over to hold it all together. Then noticed that I'd managed to wipe off all my wiring colours with my fumbling to assemble it !!
Printed off a wiring diagram, remembered that the vehicle was originally a petrol so only three wires, got back in the car and there are 5 wires !
The owner had wired in a separate switch for the glowplugs, there was a wire to the switch and a wire to a warning light.

Decided to fit the horn. Had a bit of fun getting it to fit, had to bend the bracket a bit so it cleared the radiator surround.

Re-connected the battery. Horn worked, ignition worked (without jiggling), glowplugs worked and Wallit started OK.

Horn in position.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/651.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2676_zpsf7a9c002.jpg.html)


Reversing lights don't work so that's next on the list.

Also need to bleed the brakes again, change the radiator, fit new hoses, finish welding up the doors........


Colin

[gromit]

I've just replaced the lower seal on the steering relay on my Series I http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/159944-1956-series-1-pto-welder-home-made-6.html so I thought I'd check the oil in Wallit's steering relay. Added some on Sunday but thought I'd see if it came straight out.
Checked today and yes, it was flowing past the lower seal so dropped the steering arm tonight and removed the collar & endcap.

The lower seal had failed, the failure mode was interesting........the garter spring had rusted away !!
Looks like I'll have to pull the relay out & overhaul because it doesn't look pretty inside.
I'll have to remove the horn I just fitted to make room to remove the relay. It looks very oily round the outside so hopefully it comes out OK.


Colin

[wrinklearthur]

----
Looks like I'll have to pull the relay out & overhaul because it doesn't look pretty inside.
I'll have to remove the horn I just fitted to make room to remove the relay. It looks very oily round the outside so hopefully it comes out OK.

Good luck.

.

[Brad110]

If you let it leak long enough it may come out easily.:p

[gromit]

Decided that once I'd checked over the series I & Defender Tanami for the get together at the Caribbean tomorrow I'd look at the steering relay.

Took out the battery, then the battery tray (along with the air filter). Managed to get the two bolts through the relay undone and by taking most of the bolts out of the grille panel on that side managed to draw the bolts out.
There was just enough room to get a joint separator in there and with a short spanner tighten the bolt.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/226.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2699_zps9de8fa0d.jpg.html)


A tap with a wooden block and the relay was loose (hooray).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/764.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2700_zpsdd84e484.jpg.html)



Stripped it down and despite the colour it wasn't too bad.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/883.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2701_zps0ec7a0fc.jpg.html)


A couple of seals & gaskets, skim the sealing surfaces a repaint and it can go back together.



Colin

[jerryd]

Hi Colin,
If you have one could you post a pic of the ignition switch showing which wire goes to which spade please ??

Mine was vandalized before I took ownership and I have numerous switches and buttons to press to start it :D It would be nice to put it back to normal at some point but I can see it's going to be a nightmare.

[gromit]

Hi Colin,
If you have one could you post a pic of the ignition switch showing which wire goes to which spade please ??

Mine was vandalized before I took ownership and I have numerous switches and buttons to press to start it :D It would be nice to put it back to normal at some point but I can see it's going to be a nightmare.

Jerryd,

If you PM your email address I'll send the wiring diagrams.

On a petrol S3 2.25 & 2.6
Spade 1 has the brown wire connected (should be two brown wires together).
Spade 2 has a white wire connected.
Spade 3 has a white wire with a red tracer (stripe).
Spade 4 isn't used. On a diesel this is connected to the glowplug circuit.


Hope this helps.


Regards,

Colin

[gromit]

The steering relay is ready to be re-installed but from the amount of oily dirt on the steering box I need to replace the seal (O-ring).
Tried to remove the steering drop arm with a 2 legged puller with no success so I milled out the opening in a cheap Pitman Arm puller and will try that when it stops raining.
The link arm between the drop arm and relay has been repainted and new boots fitted to the joints (which were greased).

Looks like the steering column needs to come out next....


Colin

[gromit]

Drop arm removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/41.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2722_zpsde8f73c8.jpg.html)


Then removed the steering wheel, indicator switch etc. Had to remove the brackets the steering box bolts to to allow enough room to get it out under the wing.

Steering box & brackets removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/515.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2732_zps3f1b9bfa.jpg.html)


Steering box pulled out from under the wing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/516.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2733_zps664a1598.jpg.html)


Steering box seemed OK so the oil was drained and the sideplate removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/517.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2736_zps184d94c8.jpg.html)


Pulled the shaft out and fitted a new O-ring, the old one was hard and had flattened.

Ready for the sideplate to be refitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/518.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2741_zps53b9c1ae.jpg.html)


Used a new gasket and some Permatex No2, will adjust the steering backlash when it's re-fitted to Wallit.
Brackets & steering box painted, will re-fit during the week.



Colin

[gromit]

Managed to find time between visiting Trash & Treasure markets & collecting youngest son from Cub camp to get a bit more done.

Here is where the column fits back in. The rubber seal in the bulkhead has split but unless I remove the dash at some point in the future it can stay as it is for now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/453.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2742_zpsaa9fbd17.jpg.html)


Steering column & brackets back in after fiddling around with spacers etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/454.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2745_zpsc21913e6.jpg.html)


I greased up the steering relay and also greased the hole in the chassis. Hopefully I don't have to remove it again in the future but it should come out easily if needed.
New mounting bolts were used because the originals were a bit tired, I greased these as well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/455.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2747_zpsd45e7339.jpg.html)


Steering wheel, indicator switch & ignition switch re-fitted. Just need to de-rust the battery tray and air filter housing.



Colin

[gromit]

Saturday spent cutting the grass, cleaning cars etc.
Sunday.....rained most of the morning.

Managed to de-rust the air cleaner and the frame it sits in. Air cleaner painted frame to follow.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/121.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2750_zps67d7d093.jpg.html)


Getting close to pulling the wings off, still need to find some better replacements because there are a number of cracks as well as the dents to contend with. Either that or find someone who can weld aluminium.



Colin

[gromit]

Advert for replacement wings posted http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2016297#post2016297

If nothing turns up then I'll have to practice my panel beating and then track down someone who is prepared to weld up the holes & cracks.


Colin

[gromit]

Air filter painted, topped up with oil and fitted back in its frame ready to re-install

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/765.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2751_zps5477b2a4.jpg.html)


I noticed that the clips that hold the filter together have changed over the years.
This is from Wallit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1601.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2752_zps2fb2292f.jpg.html)


This is from a SIII diesel I parted out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1602.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2757_zps9926c54f.jpg.html)


At some point they changed to a wire clip.
The wing nut on the frame that holds the filter assembly in place is 1/4"BSF thread and the nut that holds the top on the filter is 3/16"W.


We've had some excitement at home recently.
I found a few dead frogs under the trees behind the house and guessed a bird had dropped them (Herons often roost in the trees and there is a wetlands just down the road).
Turned out to be a pair of Tawny Frogmouths with three young.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1603.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF1362_zps0180e817.jpg.html)


Mum and Dad are each side and the three young are in the centre.



Colin

[gromit]

With all the rain we've been having in VIC and the fact that Wallit has to be worked on outside I haven't done much for a while.

I got an industrial walking foot sewing machine a while ago (for uphostery work and saddles for rocking horses). I want to move it inside but SWMBO wasn't happy about the rust on the stand so I've been cleaning it up & painting so that it looks acceptable.

It's a Singer 42-5 which was apparently for "stitching automobile and carriage tops, wagon covers, horse blankets & heavy textiles". The previous elderly owner used it for 30+ years making hoods for veteran vehicles.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/59.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN2785_zps3dc8d12c.jpg.html)


I 'dated' it tonight via a Singer website. Manufactured in 1922 !
I think spares might be a problem so I'd better be careful using it.


Colin

[gromit]

Two of the young Tawny Frogmouths are flying, one looks much smaller than the others and is staying put.

Here are the two that are flying, alongside one of the parents.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/535.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF1470_zps4d9d4b72.jpg.html)



The other parent & the small youngster are in a position where they are difficult to photograph.



Colin

[gromit]

The Tawny Frogmouths have flown the nest and it's time to get back to Wallit.

I need a pair of wings (mudguards) because of cracks in the existing panels, plus they need a fair bit of panel beating. The alternative is to find someone who can alloy weld the cracks & holes.
The car does vibrate a lot at tickover so I'll have to check the engine mounts. Maybe the Land Rover ones aren't suitable for the Isuzu because it looks like the cracks in the wings could possibly be due to the vibration.

Hopefully I'll get time tomorrow to get the wings off along with the front panel. A new radiator came with the car so I'll fit that and get the aircleaner back in place (after de-rusting & painting the battery tray).

As soon as I have either replacement wings or the old ones fixed up I can order some paint. One door is ready to paint the other needs to come off and get repaired (I have the repair panel ready).
Upper door hinges need to be painted, I got a new set with the 'Defender mirror kit' I sourced from the UK some time ago.



Colin

[gromit]

You can't win with the weather, been too wet to work on Wallit for a while then today I am out in the full sun.

Removing the wing was problematic.
Decided to carefully remove the wiring first. The mountings for the headlight relays were badly rusted, then one of the terminals on a relay snapped off, then a couple of wires pulled out of connectors......
Before I got Wallit it had sat outside for about 3 years and I don't think it saw the sun that often so it was always damp.

Radiator fins decomposing (electrolytic corrosion and/or vibration).


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/1011.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2789_zpsefbec7b8.jpg.html)


Mounting for one of the relays.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/1012.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2791_zps405574d8.jpg.html)


Wing removed.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/1013.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2796_zps75506676.jpg.html)



Looks like I need to get 2 new relays and also fit new terminals to most of the wires.
All the lights were working OK but wouldn't have been long before I had electrical Gremlins so best to sort it out before it's back on the road.

Wing is off in preparation for repairs (unless I can find a replacement).



Colin

[gromit]

Spent the weekend working on the other Land Rovers, Wallit is looking sad with a blue tarp instead of a wing/mudguard.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/428.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2835_zpsd1c949ac.jpg.html)


First got the 2a GS running and moved it so it could be cleaned.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/125841-2a-gs-refurb-arn-178-334-a.html

Then moved the Series 2 (starts OK but needs a carby overhaul/tune up) so that I could get the Series 1 onto the driveway for some checks.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/159944-1956-series-1-pto-welder-home-made-6.html Found it needs a wheel cylinder replacing.

Then took the Defender for a drive. Repco had 25% off for RACV members this weeked so I thought I'd shout the FFR a coil to see if it cures it's poor running once it's warm. The local repco didn't have non-resistor coils, they suggested driving to a store in the next suburb but I really didn't have time.

Got back home and thought I'd move the FFR to clean it and it refused to start. Was OK a couple of weeks ago so I now need to find out what the problem is !

It's never ending........



Colin

[gromit]

FFR is running a lot better after fitting a new coil (also fitted new rotor arm and points).

Still haven't found time to work on Wallit but did play with this :-

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/162.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN2841_zps84383baa.jpg.html)


The Southern Cross tent came from the Give Away section of the forum (thanks again Edddo).
Put it up in the garden the other day just to check it out and the kids wanted a sleep out so guess who had to sleep out with them to 'supervise'.
Stood up OK to the rain the other day but I noticed that the upper parts repelled the water while the lower edges were 'wet'.
I had some sealer I sourced from Southern Cross Tents a while back to waterproof the FFR canvas so I diluted that with turps and used a pump up garden sprayer to apply.
The sprayer wasn't happy and occasionally spat large droplets out. When I checked later the large droplets were left as white marks so I decided to attack them with a heat gun. Carefully playing the heat gun over the canvas saw the white marks turn to liquid and soak into the canvas.

I'm leaving it out in the sun today and will pack it away tomorrow.

Must get going, guests arriving soon for Christmas lunch.


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to attack the dent in the wing this afternoon.

Thought I'd get away without removing the outer panel but couldn't get a hammer in to lift the dent out. So, outer panel removed and most of the work was done with a sandbag and an engineers hammer, used hammer & dolly to remove some of the bumps.
Doesn't look too bad, need to mastic the outer panel back in place and a thin skim of filler to pretty it up.


Before.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/106.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2868_zpsf4d1c4a6.jpg.html)


After.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/107.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2874_zps246d53ec.jpg.html)


I'll araldite a small aluminium patch under the hole that was drilled in the middle of the dent and fill the hole.

Should do until I can find a better wing.



Colin

[dolphint]

Hi Colin, sorry we haven't caught up for a while, I haven't even had time to check your updates (Old Wallit is looking good mate:)) I hope you've all had a great Christmas, I recken the boys would have had a ball in that tent (good onya dad!) Keep the updates coming.
On another note, I've sourced all the repair panels I need to fix up the County and I've just purchased a 1993 200tdi 110 Ute which I'm really pleased with. Catch up soon

[gromit]

Hi Colin, sorry we haven't caught up for a while, I haven't even had time to check your updates (Old Wallit is looking good mate:)) I hope you've all had a great Christmas, I recken the boys would have had a ball in that tent (good onya dad!) Keep the updates coming.
On another note, I've sourced all the repair panels I need to fix up the County and I've just purchased a 1993 200tdi 110 Ute which I'm really pleased with. Catch up soon

Steve,
If you check in the military section there is a brief update on your old 2a GS.
It became difficult to start, turned out to be a perished fuel hose so it was pumping air rather than fuel. Drove it around the garden recently and washed it.
Once Wallit's finished it's a toss up between working on the FFR or the 2a GS next.

Good to hear that you are moving on with your project (and getting more projects....).
Lake Goldsmith Rally is in May, I'll have to arrange to call by if you're not working that weekend.

I'm hoping to get some painting done on Wallit before I go back to work but with the weather and the list of jobs SWMBO wants done it may not happen for a while.


Colin

[gromit]

Managed an hour on Wallit before the rain this afternoon.

Front panel & radiator removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1409.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2898_zps176fb14d.jpg.html)


A new radiator came with Wallit, I may keep the old one to possibly get recored because the top & bottom tanks are OK it's just the fins that are crumbling away.

I noticed some time ago that the front pulley didn't have a bolt holding it in place, the previous owner said it was always like this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1410.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2900_zpsf5facab3.jpg.html)


I may use the one from the spare engine, there is also the possibility of getting a replacement from an Isuzu dealer (they'll probably charge more than I paid for the spare engine.....).
From the picture it looks like a new belt is on the shopping list.

Had a bit of a 'win' at the local Trash & Treasure market this morning.
Picked up a box of taps, dies, holders etc. A lot of CEI (BSCy) taps plus Whitworth taps and dies and a few UNF & BA.
Some have seen better days but about 80% are usable and the remainder could be sharpened.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1411.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN2902_zps68277cf1.jpg.html)


I also found a small hand operated shaper which would have been a great thing to 'play' with but I really couldn't justify it. Most of what it can do can be done on the milling machine but it would have looked great in the workshop (mind you I don't have much room at the moment......).


Colin

[gromit]

Still time poor so not much is happening on Wallit.

I'm in the process of filling the drivers side wing (mudguard), I decided to sand down the radiator panel and thought I'd just get away with painting the front face (didn't want to disturb the various stickers, plates etc. on the top edge).
Started poking around and found the reinforced section at the bottom had swollen up with rust.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/604.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2908_zps92ad5611.jpg.html)


All cut out ready for a patch to be welded in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/605.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2911_zpsb88c077d.jpg.html)





Colin

[gromit]

Decided to weld a patch into the front panel and then couldn't find any sheet steel the correct thickness.
Went to Bunnings and they wanted a lot of money for a small piece (my local steel sales only charges a nominal sum for offcuts) so had a hunt around and came up with something for a more reasonable sum.
Started to get the welder out and the kids reminded me that I had been promising to build a go-kart for ages (years actually). So I cut up some old box section that I'd collected and welded up the go-kart chassis, just need to think about the steering & axles.

Finally welded the patch in the front panel, the letters stamped in it will confuse someone in years to come......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/196.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2919_zps535c9f93.jpg.html)


I need some room in the garage so I thought I'd better sand down the rocking horse. It's had several layers of gesso which were then sanded down plus a couple of coats of oil based primer.
Next a couple of coats of light grey and I then have to dapple it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/197.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN2917_zpsd27d8e41.jpg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/198.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN2914_zps75de8380.jpg.html)


The eyes are glass and have been painted over (too hard to mask off). The paint is carefully scraped off later.


Colin

[gromit]

It's been a while since I did anything on Wallit.

I took the fanbelt off the other day and found a replacement at SuperCheap. When refitting it today I thought I'd replace the thermostat.
Bolts were a struggle to get undone but all came apart eventually.

Cleaned up the thermostat & housing, looked for a temperature on the thermostat and found 'Robertshaw Controls Co 312/412 - 180'
A quick search threw up Robertshaw Controls as an American company so I've taken a punt that 180 is Fahrenheit or 82C.
Off to SC for a thermostat & gasket during the week.

I've been putting off spraying the front panel & wings because I don't really have anywhere to do the painting (sheds all full up so it will have to be outside). I need to get a move on before the weather changes.
Then I need to order some more parts from the UK and get it onto a Club Permit.


Colin

[gromit]

No news on Wallit, just more distractions.

Last weekend disappeared showing an overseas visitor around the collection. Mind you it did make me get the Series I & Defender (Tanami) out for a run.

The next thing was another 'bargain' Land Rover......

Picked up a 2a 109 GS that had been left standing for a while. Most army bits now missing, Holden 202, bullbar welded to the chassis, front crossmember rotten. The best bits were an overdrive, Smiths heater and brake booster which made it worthwhile taking a gamble at $300.
The intention is that I will grab the above parts and a friend is having the vehicle for use on his property in Country VIC.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1077.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN2978_zps38c499d8.jpg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/978.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN2979_zpscc60590b.jpg.html)



Drained out some very stale petrol, it made your skin sting if you got it on yourself and the smell lasted for many washes. Water pump was seized solid so I removed the fanbelt & thermostat hoping it would thermosyphon.
Dropped in a spare battery and after checking the oil level, some fresh petrol in the tank and a drop tipped down the carby she fired up and ran.

Heater removed, Fairey overdrive removed but the transfer box end was past saving, and the VH44 removed.
Transfer box oil level was low and lots of oil around the output shaft/transmission brake. Decided to remove the handbrake drum and wished I hadn't.........

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1016.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Steves%20109/DSCN2972_zps6e8dac40.jpg.html)


Lots of play in the output so seal, bearing, handbrake shoes.......

On the plus side the motor sounds OK, swivel hubs are good, panels are good, bulkhead not too rusty. I'm sure Steve will start a thread on it soon and I can post a few more pictures.



Colin

[gromit]

Decided to pull my finger out and do some work on Wallit, moved forward with a couple of things and backwards on others. I'm hoping for a dry, wind free day soon so I can spray the front panel, wing & door that are cluttering up the workshop, did some prep work on these and then decided to fix a few small issues.

I'd fitted a replacement fanbelt but decided to remove it so that I could degrease the front of the engine. Although the previous owner claimed the lower pully had never had a bolt to hold it on I found that it was only the belt stopping it from falling off !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/532.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2993_zps8e1b7475.jpg.html)


So off to the spare engine and after removing the clutch, to allow me to lock the flywheel, I had a bolt.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/533.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2994_zps0244351a.jpg.html)


I might try an Isuzu dealer and see if I can get a replacement so the spare engine is complete. I'll also replace the seal while the pulley is easy to get to.

Then I spotted this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/534.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2995_zps086acb95.jpg.html)


This is a new hose sourced from the UK and fitted last year. I'll have to see if I can find where I got it from and a) Contact them to complain then b) Remember to never get flexible brake lines from them again !

Decided to brush paint the front crossmember & dumb irons.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/535.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2996_zps48f58fd6.jpg.html)


Hopefully the weather improves soon so I can get a few things spray painted.



Colin

[gromit]

Took 3 days off this week intending to do some work on Wallit, the rain put pay to that today.

Took 9 Series wheels down to the local tyre joint to get tyres removed & scrapped, surprising how they multiply when you're not looking. Just need to find someone to shotblast the rims at a reasonable price now.

Ordered a front pulley bolt from Patterson Cheney, $12 plus GST. The parts guy did have to dig out a very old parts manual for the C240 motor, the bolt was still listed but the tab washer had been discontinued.

Oil seal ordered. Not a standard off-the-shelf seal (thought for a minute I was going to have to go back to Patterson Cheney) but BJ Bearings made a phonecall and it will be with them tomorrow $7.25.

Hopefully the weather improves later in the week.


Colin

[gromit]

Lost most of the day sprog watching.

Did get time to fit the thermostat housing, new pulley seal and the nice shiny pulley bolt. The bolt lines up nicely with the hole through the crossmember, I need a Series pulley bolt that I can cut the starting handle dog from to weld to the new bolt. Mind you, not sure how easy it'd be to hand start the Isuzu diesel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/343.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3005_zps92c6b2fe.jpg.html)

The old seal was still very pliable but you can see a distinct flat where there should be a sharp edge (new one is brown).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/344.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3004_zpsb1330f5e.jpg.html)



Colin

[gromit]

Came back from the Anzac Day parade (two of my boys were in the parade with Cubs/Scouts) and decided it was warm enough to have a go at some painting.

Paint - Acrylic, supplied with the car when I purchased it. At least 3 years old so I wasn't expecting too much.
Conditions - Dry, warmish but working on a dirt floor with only a roof to protect the parts being painted.

I wasn't after a flash finish just something to brighten up a few panels that had been repaired.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/210.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3010_zps4ad28c3a.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/211.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3014_zpsf7942fd6.jpg.html)


I'm still after a pair of better wings (mudguards) for Wallit but I painted the drivers side wing that I'd repaired. It really needs a lot of work and some alloy welding but it looks a lot better than it did and will do in the short term.
The door frame will be re-skinned, hopefully this weekend, then it needs the skin painting. Then the glass needs fitting to the doortop along with new runners etc.

Earlier at the Anzac Day parade I spoke with an elderly gent who had a Jeep he drives in the parade each year. It was on full rego and he's apparently owned it for 47 years. I mentioned the bar tread tyres and that I needed some for my military 2a, he said he got 8 tyres some 40 odd years ago and they cost $15 each ! He still has 4 wrapped up and kept in the dark in case he needs them......



Colin

[gromit]

We have some big trees behind our house which are getting pruned tomorrow so I had to move a few Land Rovers to allow access.

Decided that I should get a radiator back into Wallit so that I'm happier about running the motor, plus I'm worried about corrosion while the cooling system has been removed.

This came amongst the spares supplied.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/175.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3031_zpsf379b16c.jpg.html)


Gave the front panel a quick polish and fitted the radiator.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/176.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3033_zpsa223f2bf.jpg.html)


The front panel sits on 3 pads on the chassis. The original ones were a canvas material that held water and promoted rusting so I went on the hunt for something. Found some axle straps which looked promising but a shame to waste them, then a mudflap but again a shame to waste it. Then I noticed the old radiator hoses that I'd removed...... slit one down it's length then flattened it out and with a sharp knife & steel rule I ended up with 3 pads. They have a serious curve in them but this won't be a problem once in place, just had to punch a hole for the bolt to go through.

Bolted the battery surround & aircleaner back in (painted them months ago).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/177.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3035_zpsda7893d9.jpg.html)


Then the wing (mudguard) was bolted back into place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/178.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3040_zpsdac501a0.jpg.html)


Fitted new hoses I'd found in SuperCheap (after taking my old ones in as samples) and also replaced the heater hose & all hose clamps. While doing this I realised that I'm missing the control valve on the heater, not going to be fun in the hot weather.....
Topped up with an old fashioned anti freeze/anti boil and checked for leaks.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/179.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3039_zps3e91cda6.jpg.html)


Just need to replace the overflow hose to the header tank.

A quick dash down the driveway a few times to annoy the neighbours and it was time to pack away the tools.


Colin

[gromit]

Found out why the heater valve was missing.

Hasn't been available for some time and was an Australian sourced item from a Ford http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2140458#post2140458


Colin

[107gus]

Coming together nicely. Give the hand crank a miss, go for the front pto ice cream maker/blender option :twisted:

[gromit]

Found some time to fit the glass into one of the doortops today.

Parts gathered.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1300.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3085_zpsf24fbc2e.jpg.html)


I'm using an old fashioned sealant for the fixed pane of glass (it's like BluTak).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/771.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3086_zpsebaf8720.jpg.html)


The window runners had the hole for the window catch.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1301.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3087_zps2e8a9eb7.jpg.html)

Not a neat hole but easier than me trying to cut one.


Sealant being put into place ready for the fixed glass.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/691.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3089_zpsf829a282.jpg.html)


Fixed glass in and spacer & distance piece in place ready for the lower runner.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1302.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3095_zpsc88b3469.jpg.html)


Lower runner in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1303.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3091_zps5cf9c262.jpg.html)


I used three st/st self tapping screws to hold it in place. You need to be carefull drilling through the runner, aluminium spacer and then the window top.

I installed the rear runner & distance piece next (two screws). Then drop the sliding glass into the lower runner, pop the top runner onto the glass, hold the spacer in position and swing into place. Turn the doortop upside down to drill the holes in the top runner for the screws (three).

Sliding glass in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1304.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3096_zpsf76bf7f2.jpg.html)


Fixed glass retainer screwed into position.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1305.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3100_zps41387405.jpg.html)


I probably should have fitted the seal on the sliding glass before I fitted it, looks like I might have to unscrew the top runner and remove the glass to fit the seal.
Fairly straightforward job although getting the sealant to look neat on the outside is time consuming.


Colin

[gromit]

Cleaned up the door skin today.

I'm going to paint the bare aluminium areas with an etch primer, ease out a few of the minor dents and then bond the skin back onto the doorframe.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1158.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3106_zpsfa106a20.jpg.html)


I'll use a hammer & dolly (or maybe the sandbag) to fold the skin back over onto the frame.
When I lived in the UK you could get a tool for fitting door skins (I guess it was a common thing to do there because of the corrosion issues).
Here's one Eastwood Door Skin Installation Tool (http://www.eastwood.com/ew-door-skin-installation-tool.html)


Colin

[Lionelgee]

G'day Gromit,

I found this little gem on eBay and YouTube - the Skin Zipper Door Skinning Tool STK-21890. It sells for $43.08 from the USA and $45.75 USD for postage. There are also replacement heads available too. Skin Zipper Door Skinning Tool STK 21890 Brand New | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skin-Zipper-Door-Skinning-Tool-STK-21890-BRAND-NEW-/141014034422?hash=item20d51767f6&item=141014034422&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr)

The clip of the Skin Zipper in action accessed 10th of June 2014 from, Steck 21890 Skin Zipper - YouTube

I am not sure how it would perform with aluminium sheet for a Land Rover door skin?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Lionelgee]

Hello Gromit,

I also found a ratchet operated door skinner manufactured by Wivco THE SKINNER - Door Panel Installation Tool Part No. TH15.000, accessed 10th June from WIVCO Design - Invents and manufactures body and fender hand tools of unique design and application (The Skinner) (http://www.wivco.com/the_skinner.htm) It looks like prices start for the The Skinner at $99 USD.

There is a YouTube video with the tool in action. James Freddy had not used the tool before so they used a hammer and dolly to fold the skin to 45 degrees. The door skinner tool is introduced at around the 8:34 minute mark. Accessed from Door Skin Replacement, Restoration of a 1966 #2 Chevy Nova SS MUSCLE CARS & HOT RODS - YouTube

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Lionel,

Some good ideas but for the moment I'll stick to the hammer & dolly (or sandbag) method otherwise it'll never get done.

I like 'The Skinner', out of the two designs I'd go for that one (slow & steady wins the race....)
I'm in the next street to Peter Tommasini tomorrow Peter Tommasini - Classic Car Restoration (http://www.handbuilt.net.au/index.html), I might drop in and ask what he suggests.


Colin

[Lionelgee]

I'm in the next street to Peter Tommasini tomorrow Peter Tommasini - Classic Car Restoration (http://www.handbuilt.net.au/index.html), I might drop in and ask what he suggests. Colin


G'day Colin,

Yes I know about Peter Tommasini and I have watched a number of the demonstration clips on YouTube. I would also really like to do some of the courses that he offers too. :)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

I didn't get time to visit Peter Tommasini last week so decided to use the sandbag & a panel beating hammer to re-fit the door skin.
A trial fit to make sure it fitted over the frame, then applied some sealant, fitted the skin then fitted the pop rivets around the door handle and top edge.
The front of the skin was rested on the sandbag and the edge folded over.
I noticed the skin was pulling away from the frame in the middle so I laid it face down and put some weights on the frame and left it until the sealant had set.

Just needs sanding and then waiting for a fine day for painting.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/714.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3121_zps3f7476e7.jpg.html)


Decided I need some room in the shed so did some painting on the rocking horse.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/715.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN3127_zps894ca0a6.jpg.html)

Next it needs a coat of satin varnish. The first rocking horse I made I painted in gloss enamel (as with this one) and the wife didn't like it so I sprayed it with satin estapol once it was finished. It dulled it down and as a bonus the brownish tinge in the varnish gave an antique (dirty/old) finish to the paint.

Then I need to make a saddle & bridle and fit cow tails for the mane & tail (you can buy them on the skin ready to nail in position).



Colin

[gromit]

The weather has stopped me doing much on Wallit lately but I've just picked up some parts on Ebay.
There were a couple of pallets of S3 parts turned up in the correct shade of Spanish Olive.

First one had wings, doors and the upper tailgate.
Latest one comprised front panel, front valance, tailgate lower, sills, dashboard, heater blower, VH44 booster, seatbox plus a lot of other bits & pieces.

I'm about to place an order on Paddocks for the last parts I need (plus a few parts for some of the other projects). I had to cull some items from my list but it was interesting to look closely at UK prices vs. Australian prices. Some items are not that much more expensive here others are significantly different.....


Colin

[gromit]

The parts I got via Ebay came from Harrop Engineering.
They are building up a slightly modified Series Land Rover.......



https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10418908_678432205577579_7711441399299409073_n.jpg





Colin

[gromit]

Nothing really done on Wallit over the weekend but did manage to get the 2a going once I'd cleaned the muck out of the carby.

Painted the mudshield for the drivers side wing. Prepped it and killed the rust on Sunday......... after considering the time taken to do the job I really must invest in a grit blaster. I have a big compressor but it's 3-phase and it needs assembling and moving close to the only 3-phase power point I have.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/923.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3142_zps563b17a4.jpg.html)



Colin

[chazza]

Have you considered using a molasses bath rather than a grit blaster Colin?

Much cheaper; works whilst you are doing something else; no hazards; 100% rust free everywhere on the part; the only time spent on the part is preparation and painting.

PM me if you want an article on the subject I have written,

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

Have you considered using a molasses bath rather than a grit blaster Colin?

Much cheaper; works whilst you are doing something else; no hazards; 100% rust free everywhere on the part; the only time spent on the part is preparation and painting.

PM me if you want an article on the subject I have written,

Cheers Charlie

Charlie,

I already use molasses for de-rusting some parts. The idea of a grit blaster was for removing both paint & rust.
For the mudshield I had to apply a couple of coats of paint stripper, then once the worst of the paint was scraped off sand it down, then treat the rust. A grit blaster would make the whole process much faster and provide a good key for the fresh paint.
Just need to get round to organising something........


Colin

[gromit]

Picked up a new heater valve today from the GT shop in Epping.
They advertise on ePay, look for Ford Falcon XW XY GT GS Heater Tap.
Just need to move the actuator round to suit the Series III.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/344.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3157_zpscafafffd.jpg.html)


Didn't do much last weekend. decided to charge a few batteries on the collection of Land Rovers. The Series II refused to run, eventually tracked down to the fuel pump. This had a new diaphragm fitted when I got it but pulled it off and checked it over.......nothing wrong, put it back on and it pumped OK.
All I can think of is an air leak somewhere.

Sorted through a few parts that need prepping for spraying but with the rain and cold weather that's a long way off.



Colin

[gromit]

Thanks to Lionelgee I now have a Workshop manual for the C240 motor.
A while back he sent me a lead for someone selling some Isuzu manuals, the gentleman wasn't that helpful and the price was a bit more than I wanted to pay so I left it.
Checked back the other day to see if they were still available and another manual was being advertised.
Collected it today, thanks Lionel.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/160.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3170_zps1d4efa3b.jpg.html)



Colin

[gromit]

Another C240 Isuzu powered Land Rover on eBay Landrover Series 3 UTE in Barrack Heights, NSW | eBay


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Another C240 Isuzu powered Land Rover on eBay Landrover Series 3 UTE in Barrack Heights, NSW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Landrover-Series-3-Ute-/251601424357?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276)


Colin


G'day Colin,

That is one nice looking Series 3 ute. Although I have enough Series 3 utes on my plate at the moment.

It would also break the record of how much I have ever paid for a Series 3.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

G'day Colin,

That is one nice looking Series 3 ute. Although I have enough Series 3 utes on my plate at the moment.

It would also break the record of how much I have ever paid for a Series 3.

Kind Regards
Lionel

Lionel,

If the 'minor repairs' really are minor then it's a good price.
It's too far away otherwise I could end up with a fleet of C240 powered Land Rovers.
I wonder how many conversions were done. I'm aware of at least 6 now.


Colin

[gromit]

The C240 Isuzu Land Rover in NSW didn't get a single bid.

In between making new seat bases for other Land Rovers I managed to get a headlight re-fitted along with the horn an a few bits & pieces.
New sidelight & indicator light are in transit from the UK along with new windscreen glass.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1367.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3174_zps02359bf6.jpg.html)


I have DeLuxe seats for Wallit but I'm missing an adjustable seat base frame. The previous owner mounted a seat (not sure what from) directly to the runners but there is no frame to hold a standard seat base.
I'm in two minds about the MDF bases on the DeLuxe seats, I either take the staples out, remove the base & paint or make replacement exterior grade ply bases.

I have an assembly line going with seat bases for the Series II and IIa GS.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1368.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN3175_zpsfcc01024.jpg.html)



Colin

[chazza]

Some MDF is heat and moisture resistant - it might be worth trying them and replace later if they don't last,

Cheers C

[gromit]

Charlie,

You'd hope that they chose a suitable grade but who knows.
I'll probably unstaple & paint, just in the process of locating stainless staples (rather than zinc plated). Found a few suppliers but 10,000 box quantity is the issue, that's a lot of seats........

Parts from the UK arrived today, need to open up the packages later and check the windscreen glass survived the trip.


Colin

[gromit]

Just opened the boxes from the UK.
All OK, glass survived.

Interestingly they list the Country of manufacture for each part, Thailand, China (People's Rep.), Taiwan, India, United Kingdom (!), Italy.
I'll have to go through the parts list and work out what comes from where.

The windscreen glass is from Turkey !

Glass.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1315.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN3180_zps5324fcc6.jpg.html)

All the rest....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1316.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN3181_zpsa9367bbf.jpg.html)



Colin

[reachjatt]

Looks like Christmas came early Colin!! Enjoy your bag of goodies.
Nav

[gromit]

Managed to tidy up the wiring for the headlamps etc. today.
Removed numerous corroded connectors and replaced with new. The headlamp relays had corroded pins that snapped off so new relays are being fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1112.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3182_zpsd1d1dbb6.jpg.html)


I need to get some screws to fit the new indicators & sidelights.
They're Wipac but I wasn't that impressed with them. The bases are plastic (at least they won't corrode I guess)


Colin

[Lionelgee]

... indicators & sidelights -They're Wipac but I wasn't that impressed with them. The bases are plastic (at least they won't corrode I guess) Colin


G'day Colin,

You might want to check the plastic bases for cracks. I ordered a couple of sets from the UK. When I pulled back the rubber shrouds to get to the plastic plate the majority either had bits chipped off the outer ring, or cracks going across the base plate. The lenses themselves were unmarked. The box the lights came in was not squashed either so it was not transit damage. At first sight the black rubber back and at the lenses the lights seemed to be in excellent.

The UK vendor sent me a replacement batch free of charge. They mentioned that the replacement lights were sourced from a different supplier.


Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

G'day Colin,

You might want to check the plastic bases for cracks. I ordered a couple of sets from the UK. When I pulled back the rubber shrouds to get to the plastic plate the majority either had bits chipped off the outer ring, or cracks going across the base plate. The lenses themselves were unmarked. The box the lights came in was not squashed either so it was not transit damage. At first sight the black rubber back and at the lenses the lights seemed to be in excellent.

The UK vendor sent me a replacement batch free of charge. They mentioned that the replacement lights were sourced from a different supplier.


Kind Regards
Lionel

Lionel,

Mine have a white plastic base and all seem OK so far.



Colin

[gromit]

Went to fit the lights today and although they are reasonably well made they need some work before you can fit them.

The three mounting holes are not evenly spaced in the wing. If you fit the lights as they come the lens screws are top & bottom.
I modified the base by filing one of the holes oval so that I could fit the lenses with the screws left & right as per the Lucas lights.

The lens is well made and looks almost identical to the Lucas unit, just a shame you have to fiddle around to get it to look right.

New side lamp fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1080.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3185_zps083d1a09.jpg.html)



Originals on the other wing

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1081.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3186_zpscbb3c393.jpg.html)



Colin

[gromit]

Purchased some electrical bits today.
I found a company that sell Narva products at trade price, not really set up to deal with the public but a sale is a sale.

I needed a numberplate light, found one with globes fitted for $9 plus GST.
A box of 10 indicator globes was $5 plus GST ($3.98 for two at 'Supercheap'). Also got some cable clamps for holding the wiring under the front wings.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/972.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN3188_zps723b1892.jpg.html)



Colin

[gromit]

Just finished sorting out the wiring at the front end.

As mentioned, the Wipac sidelights/indicators need a bit of work to get them to look right. I had to re-drill a hole and re-locate the rubber (but the drain slot isn't at the bottom now).
The plastic base seems quite sturdy, a nice touch was that the self tapping screws that hold the lens on had a dob of grease on the threads. The screws had a small plastic washer (like the Lucas lamps) that should hold the screw in place but..... the holes in the lens are a bit on the tight side so the screw just winds itself out of the lens and you lose the washers.
Fixed this by drilling the holes a bit bigger.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/777.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3190_zpsa664a62f.jpg.html)


Gave up trying to get BA screws so used M4x16 with nyloc's instead.

Nice neat wiring under the wing, until the first muddy puddle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/778.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3189_zps23ad0d08.jpg.html)


Re-wired the headlamp relays. All new connectors (I personally don't like those red/blue/yellow crimp terminals) and tidied up the wiring run.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/779.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3192_zpsd615de79.jpg.html)


The reverse lights don't work but after wiggling the wiring underneath it came to life......need to check into that a bit further. Also need some seals for the reverse lights, the lenses are crazed but they are becoming more difficult to locate so a re-seal will have to do.

Took off the rear numberplate holder and will re-paint and fit the new numberplate lamp.

Need to make a list of jobs because apart from some painting (which can wait) it's almost back on the road.

Wallit just needs :-
Windscreens fitting.
Wiper arms & blades.
New seatbelts fitted.
New seats fitted (although I could probably get away with the old ones).
Drain plug on one swivel housing needs to be helicoiled.
One suspension U-bolt needs to be replaced.
Front brake flexi's need replacing.
Taillights & rear indicators need replacing (the originals work OK for now).



Colin

[Lionelgee]

Wallit just needs :-
Windscreens fitting.
Wiper arms & blades.
New seatbelts fitted.
New seats fitted (although I could probably get away with the old ones).
Drain plug on one swivel housing needs to be helicoiled.
One suspension U-bolt needs to be replaced.
Front brake flexi's need replacing.
Taillights & rear indicators need replacing (the originals work OK for now).
Colin

G'day Gromit,

That is not a very exhaustive list at all before Wallit is on officially back on the road :)

So does that mean the Series 3 FFR will step up and become the next restoration project? Or are there other vehicles that are currently waiting in second place?

How is the rocking horse going?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

G'day Gromit,

That is not a very exhaustive list at all before Wallit is on officially back on the road :)

So does that mean the Series 3 FFR will step up and become the next restoration project? Or are there other vehicles that are currently waiting in second place?

How is the rocking horse going?

Kind Regards
Lionel


Lionel,

FFR is next then the IIa GS with odd jobs on other Land Rovers as-and-when I have the enthusiasm/time/money. Still have another one to look at and still looking for a Dormobile.
There are two rocking horses to finish, one to restore and then there's the rocking zebra project........

Wallit has only been about 2 years so far :eek:



Colin

[gromit]

Managed to buy replacement reverse light lenses for Wallit today. Getting harder to find and also expensive.
My lenses are crazed but probably OK for now but I do need to replace the gaskets. I'll have to look for some thin closed cell foam, wait a minute this mousemat might do the trick.......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/698.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN3194_zpsa8d3f585.jpg.html)


Painted the rear numberplate holder tonight so hopefully I'll get that fitted at the weekend although I've been told we're taking the kids to the snow on Sunday.

I remembered a few more things to add to the 'to-do' list. There is the drivers door to de-skin & repair and a couple of rust repairs in the drivers footwell. I'm sure there's a few more things that I just haven't found yet.


Colin

[gromit]

Put the rear numberplate holder on tonight (nice to get a bit of daylight left when I get home), need to wire it up at the weekend.
Looking at the picture another thing on the list is to paint the rear crossmember......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/424.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3197_zpsb22926ef.jpg.html)



Colin

[gromit]

Managed to get some time on Wallit this weekend.

First I had to repair the passenger side swivel housing. When I rebuilt the swivel the drain bolt wasn't correct (a bolt with an extra nut on it rather than an extra long hex bolt). I sourced the correct bolt, screwed it in and the thread stripped.....
Some time ago I managed to get a 1/4"BSF re-thread kit so today I filled the drill flutes with grease and drilled the hole out in situ then filled the tap flutes with grease and tapped it out. I flushed some mineral turps through the housing to remove any final bits of swarf.
The insert was wound in OK but then you have to break off the tang, problem is where will it end up, will I have to pull the swivel hub off ???
I used the tool for screwing in the insert, filled the slot with grease and carefully tapped it to break off the tang. As luck would have it the tang stuck in the grease so drain bolt in and top up with EP90.

Next I wired up the numberplate lamp and fixed some wiring issues. Found that a lot of water/mud had found its way in behind the cover that protects the taillights. A new grommet and a blanking grommet hopefully cured that problem.
Then the front brake flexi's were changed and the brakes bled.

Fitted the grille, not a Series III item but it looks the part.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/8.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3200_zpsaa9df162.jpg.html)


I took the bumper off to paint the 'structure' behind it. Wallit has a military bumper and someone has reinforced the chassis between the front of the dumb irons

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/9.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3202_zpsf881e0da.jpg.html)


While the bumper was off I cut a hole in the ironwork for a starting handle. The Isuzu doesn't have a starter dog on the motor and would probably be difficult to hand crank anyway but chain drilled some holes & filed to shape before painting took place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/10.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3206_zpsa379a7d2.jpg.html)


Then it was in with the new seat belts (still have the old seats fitted).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/11.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3203_zps71ae38c9.jpg.html)


The inertia reels came with stalks so I had to figure out how best to mount them. The belt came with a range of brackets, nuts, extra bolts etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/593.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3204_zps2429ec81.jpg.html)


The base of the passenger seat has rotted and was damp so water must be leaking in somewhere (it's a Land Rover so it could be anywhere). I must treat the base of those DeLuxe seats before fitting and cure the leak.


Noticed that most of the bolts holding the roof on were missing (probably in a box in the back somewhere) so decided to add a few new ones to stop the roof blowing away. Might help stop the leak as well !

Found lots of other little things to do like fit the rear view mirror, I'd forgotten that the brake light switch hadn't been re-fitted so sorted that.

Next weekend the drivers door has to come off for some surgery (rotten lower frame), luckily I have a spare door to fill the hole. Also I need to replace the windscreen glass.



Colin

[gromit]

Went out in the shed tonight to paint some mud shields for under the drivers side wing.
Once that was done I removed a mag/dyno assembly from a 1957 M100 Panther (a relic from another life). This along with some other bikes came out in a 20ft continer back in 2001.
A friend has a contact who can rebuild the magneto.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1496.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN3207_zps7f4a1144.jpg.html)


Colin

[gromit]

Didn't get time to do anything on Wallit at the weekend but did collect a few spare parts for other projects.

A couple of Series II doors & wings.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1306.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN3217_zps0a6a999e.jpg.html)

A Series II bonnet, a couple of doortops that will donate glass & glazing strips and a pair of SIIa military scone cutters.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1307.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN3218_zps33480f27.jpg.html)

Also got a swivel hub in good condition, a long front driveshaft, brake backplate & drum plus a 1950's ex WD Jerry can.

Need to stop collecting junk and get a few vehicles finished......


Colin

[gromit]

Pulled the drivers door off yesterday to replace the lower edge of the frame. Fortunately I have a spare door to fill the hole.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1033.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCF2424_zps468d0547.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1034.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3224_zps5c06fbe6.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1035.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3223_zps2e4de363.jpg.html)


The doortop came off very easily and I've managed to get the glass and glazing strips out. Just have to drill out a few rivets and de-skin the door.


Colin

[gromit]

Found time between chores to replace the drivers side windscreen.

Carefully cut around the sealant and pushed the glass out. Removing the old sealant was time consuming.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1011.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3226_zps98c4b9c2.jpg.html)

Once cleaned out a bead of sealant was applied.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1012.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3229_zpsda09f4a8.jpg.html)

Here is the new glass after cleaning up and a new wiper arm & blade fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1013.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3230_zpsd0968ace.jpg.html)


I'm not a fan of silicone sealant (mainly because it's a pain to remove) but decided I'd use it for the windscreen.
After browsing Bunnings & Masters I was confused, found a glass sealant in SuperCheap at about twice the price so went back to Bunnings. Ended up finding a silicone sealant in the building section that is used for sealing glass in 'fences'. Nice silver colour that matches the galvanised frame.
I remember reading a thread recently where someone mentioned rubber blocks under the glass, it crossed my mind that installing screens in-situ would let the glass touch the bottom of the frame. Ended up cutting a couple of strips of inner tube rubber for the glass to sit on.

Did the job single handed because my boys were too busy playing to help.....


If I can find time next week I'll do the other side and also fit two to the FFR, that way it saves me worrying about storing sheets of glass.


Colin

[slug_burner]

Found time between chores to replace the drivers side windscreen.

Carefully cut around the sealant and pushed the glass out. Removing the old sealant was time consuming.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1011.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3226_zps98c4b9c2.jpg.html)

Once cleaned out a bead of sealant was applied.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1012.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3229_zpsda09f4a8.jpg.html)

Here is the new glass after cleaning up and a new wiper arm & blade fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1013.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3230_zpsd0968ace.jpg.html)


I'm not a fan of silicone sealant (mainly because it's a pain to remove) but decided I'd use it for the windscreen.
After browsing Bunnings & Masters I was confused, found a glass sealant in SuperCheap at about twice the price so went back to Bunnings. Ended up finding a silicone sealant in the building section that is used for sealing glass in 'fences'. Nice silver colour that matches the galvanised frame.
I remember reading a thread recently where someone mentioned rubber blocks under the glass, it crossed my mind that installing screens in-situ would let the glass touch the bottom of the frame. Ended up cutting a couple of strips of inner tube rubber for the glass to sit on.

Did the job single handed because my boys were too busy playing to help.....


If I can find time next week I'll do the other side and also fit two to the FFR, that way it saves me worrying about storing sheets of glass.


Colin

Colin,

You are a machine when it comes to your Landies, can always rely on you for an update with the work you have been doing.

I need to take a leaf out of your book, do a bit regularly and progress will occur.

Thanks for an inspiring thread.

[gromit]

Colin,

You are a machine when it comes to your Landies, can always rely on you for an update with the work you have been doing.

I need to take a leaf out of your book, do a bit regularly and progress will occur.

Thanks for an inspiring thread.

Thanks for your kind words, it's all been happening rather slowly considering I was only trying to get it back on the road but I do aim to do something on it every week.

I read somewhere that for a restoration to be completed quickly you need to do something on it every day. That could be looking up parts, preparing an ordering list, finding out how to do a job as well as physically doing work on it. I guess it keeps your focus on the task in hand.
Unfortunately I have a tendancy to collect projects and then spend time on a new project because I'm bored with the old one.....

Wallit isn't too far off hitting the road so I'll know if it's all been worthwhile soon.


Colin

[reachjatt]

Did the job single handed
Colin

Hi Colin,

Just want to emphasise help is never far away... Let me know if you need a hand or two, i'll more than happy to come down...

Nav

[gromit]

Fitted the passenger side windscreen today.
Then I started taking the drivers door apart.

Drilled out rivets & removed capping.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/737.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3231_zps14eb7bef.jpg.html)


Raised the edge of the door skin.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/738.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3235_zps682583dc.jpg.html)


Door skin removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/739.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3236_zps0e78ed59.jpg.html)


Just need to get a door repair section and cut & weld the lower doorframe.


Colin

[gromit]

After completing a few chores I changed the coolant & engine oil on the Defender and found some work that needs doing......

Then I made a couple of more seat bases. Wallit has DeLuxe seats but I may change the bases, then there is a set for my Series II and I might make a spare set using the foam from Wallit's seats.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/184.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN3240_zps58d0c467.jpg.html)



Colin

[gromit]

I decided to take one of the DeLuxe seat bases apart and paint the MDF base, turned out to be less easy than expected.
because of the sculptured shape of the seat base it's made from 4 separate pieces of foam and there are flaps from the centre section that are stapled down to the MDF. There are also plastic corner protectors that have to be removed, these are like plastic rivets with a centre pin that has to be driven through to allow it to be removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/82.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3244_zpsdaebf93d.jpg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/83.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3246_zps0a79d12c.jpg.html)

In the end I just painted the bottom of the base then re-assembled using an air stapler.

The seat base has a kick up at the back and the size is perfect for an adjustable seat frame.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/84.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3245_zps2026d02c.jpg.html)


Problem is the strips that run along the bottom edge are not wide enough.
Correctly sized they stop the base moving sideways. Correctly positioned they hit up against bolt heads and stop the seat base sliding forward.
Looks like I need to make up some new strips and fit correctly.

Timber strip should be a good fit between the rails.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/85.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3250_zps849ea1f9.jpg.html)


Here you can see how short the MDF strips are.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/458.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3251_zps947aeec7.jpg.html)


Centre & passenger seats fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/86.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3252_zps731f94a3.jpg.html)


Colin

[dolphint]

Hi Colin, looks like you need some adjustable seat rails, I might still have some, I'll check. Are you going to Lake Goldsmith Steam Rally?

[gromit]

Hi Colin, looks like you need some adjustable seat rails, I might still have some, I'll check. Are you going to Lake Goldsmith Steam Rally?

Steve,
I have some adjustable seat rails thanks to Phin (on this forum).
I'll use one on the drivers side but leave the passenger side fixed. I'll pull off the MDF strip and replace it with a piece of hardwood the correct length so the seat is more firmly located.

I've missed the last few Lake Goldsmith rallies so probably yes, I'll let you know if I'll be driving past on the 1st November......

Colin

[gromit]

Fitted the drivers seat today.
Seat rails had to be cleaned & lubricated and I had to find a couple of 1/4" UNF countersunk screws. Then reassembly is fiddly without dropping the fuel tank.

Anyway, looking quite smart now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/289.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3258_zps74c652e7.jpg.html)

Not quite sure why there is a second hole in the adjustable seat frame, the lower one fits in with the fixed seats but it's a bigger diameter than the plain section on the squab bolt ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/337.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3259_zps3b825b10.jpg.html)


I'm waiting for a door repair section to fix the drivers door. Looking for something to do I decided to panelbeat a replacement bonnet.
The one fitted has a good skin (except for a couple of holes where a podlock hasp was fitted) but the ribs underneath are rotten. The replacement bonnet has good ribs but all four corners have been damaged.
The one fitted has solid rivets holding it together, the one I'm repairing has pop rivets. Is one early SIII and one later ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/719.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3260_zps36e2a0e9.jpg.html)


Once I can get the door repaired & re-skinned the list of jobs is becoming very small.

Still have to fix the reverse light intermittant fault.
Battery hold down needs fitting.
Diff breathers need fitting.

I'm sure there are a couple of other jobs......


Colin

[gromit]

One of my boys spotted that the Tawny Frogmouths are back (has a year passed already).
Looks like two young ones this time around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/632.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF2756_zpsbd9e9af3.jpg.html)


We had the trees cut back earlier in the year so they have moved further down the back of the property and higher up (I need a longer zoom on the camera).


Colin

[gromit]

Installed the rear diff breather the other night. It's run up to the top of the bulkhead in the engine bay.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/8.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3268_zpsfb576c90.jpg.html)


Door repair section arrived so I need to spend the long weekend fixing the drivers door & painting if the weather stays fine. I'll do the bonnet as well if I get time.

Off to the Lake Goldsmith rally tomorrow. Steam engines, tractors, oil engines, steam shovels........


Colin

[gromit]

Lake Goldsmith was cold wet and windy yesterday.
Today was a bit better once the rain stopped.

Managed to get some work done on the drivers door.

The repair section is long enough to leave a short piece that can be used at each end if needed. Cut with a hacksaw.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1107.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3274_zpsbaf1dff9.jpg.html)


Cut the old section out of the door with an angle grinder. Then trim the repair panel to fit neatly. I take a measurement from the mid section down to the bottom edge of the door and write it on the door in case I forget. It was 18" at one end an 17 7/8" at the other end.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1108.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3279_zps2ecf3240.jpg.html)


I needed some patches for up the front & rear edge.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1109.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3282_zps84b84698.jpg.html)


You'll notice the repair section doesn't have the depression in it as per original.

I cut a repair piece out of the old door bottom. Try and dodge between the spot welds.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/524.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3283_zps1cb0f2f3.jpg.html)


Ready to weld.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1110.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3286_zpsef953e3a.jpg.html)


Hopefully I can weld it up tomorrow.


Colin

[gromit]

Welded the repair section & patches in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1088.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3289_zps2f9c2127.jpg.html)


I poured some old paint down inside the box section & rolled it around. I'd covered up the drain holes with duct tape first.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1089.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3291_zps315ee09c.jpg.html)


Etch primer applied.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1090.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3292_zpsdd8fc7df.jpg.html)


Noticed I was being watched.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1091.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF2946_zpsa97c9364.jpg.html)


I'll have to get some dents & creases out of the door skin this afternoon.



Colin

[gromit]

Doorframe & doortop painted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1065.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3293_zps46062a25.jpg.html)


I'll try and find some time to work on the doorskin tomorrow.


Colin

[gromit]

Managed to get the worst of the dents & scrapes out of the doorskin. A lot had scraped aluminium from the surface of the panel so some filler will be needed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1057.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3300_zps6fa3fddc.jpg.html)


Inside of skin painted with etch primer, once this is dry I can pop rivet (round the door handle) and glue the skin to the frame. Once that's cured I can fold the edge of the skin back over.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1058.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3303_zps965a3a60.jpg.html)


I'm not trying for a perfect door, just to remove the worst of the dents & scrapes. I have another couple of better doors (in Spanish Olive) that I may fit in the future. Still need the bottom of the frame repaired but the skins are dent free.


Colin

[gromit]

Skin glued on and edge folded over.
Left some weight on it for a few hours while the sealant set.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/1049.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3306_zps7e8a8029.jpg.html)


Need to get some hi-build filler during the week and also assemble the doortop.


Colin

[gromit]

No time at the weekend because I took the Series I to a rally.

Managed to borrow a gravity spray gun from work with a 2.5mm nozzle that will spray the hibuild primer filler, hopefully this weekend.......

Then I found this at a customers today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/571.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN3322_zpsee7bf97b.jpg.html)


A project for one of my boys.


Colin

[gromit]

Just spent haf an hour as the sun set watching the Tawny Frogmouth young doing some practice flights in the trees outside our backdoor. The parents chased off a couple of crows and then went off hunting for food.

Here's a picture from earlier in the week.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/536.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF3017_zps6ddb57a7.jpg.html)


They'll be gone soon but hopefully back next year.

Must get back to Land Rovers rather than bird watching......


Colin

[Fourgearsticks]

Land Rover will still be there after the birds are gone, we use ours out and about watching Brolga's and Red Tail Cockie's.

[gromit]

Found some time at the weekend to do some work on Wallit.

Installed the splash guards under the drivers side wing (mudguard).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/282.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3337_zpsddd601ec.jpg.html)

Then stripped off the tow bracket and painted the rear crossmember.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/283.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3336_zps91ee16ab.jpg.html)


Need to get some decent weather so that I can spray the door bottoms plus I still have one doortop to rebuild.

I plan to spend some time over the Christmas break to get this one across the line.....


Colin

[gromit]

It's been either too windy or too wet to spray the doors.

Tow hitch is back on but with the rain and wind today I decided to fire up the industrial sewing machine and make a saddle for a rocking horse. Didn't turn out too bad, youngest daughter is happy but wants the mane, tail & harness put on quick smart so she can ride it....


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/52.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN3351_zps28a0eed4.jpg.html)


Colin

[mick88]

You are a very talented craftsman! Well done.


Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Managed to get the doors painted the other week.
Need to re-assemble and finish the second doortop then I can swap over with the temporary doors.
Need to strip the paint off a spare bonnet which looked OK but has several layers of paint which are cracking so back to bare metal then it can be painted.

Almost finished the rocking horse, fitted the tail and made the bridle. Just need to fit the mane and then get on with a bow rocker that's part finished.

Chasing after another Land Rover this weekend, more details if I'm successful but I'm told by SWMBO that at least one of the others must go........decisions, decisions.


Colin

[wrinklearthur]

Must be more to the tale of the rocking horse tail?
.

[jerryd]

Decisions, decisions ;)

[dolphint]

Managed to get the doors painted the other week.
Need to re-assemble and finish the second doortop then I can swap over with the temporary doors.
Need to strip the paint off a spare bonnet which looked OK but has several layers of paint which are cracking so back to bare metal then it can be painted.

Almost finished the rocking horse, fitted the tail and made the bridle. Just need to fit the mane and then get on with a bow rocker that's part finished.

Chasing after another Land Rover this weekend, more details if I'm successful but I'm told by SWMBO that at least one of the others must go........decisions, decisions.


Colin

Hi Colin,

Mate this is not an issue, just get rid of the fender!:D

[gromit]

I really must try and get Wallit finished, it's so close.......

Problem is the arrival of a Dormobile, plus the list of things the wife now wants done as part of the deal over getting the Dormobile !

It looks like the 1960 LWB ute will have to go.
I've spend the least time on it but it'll make a nice project for someone. Just have to remove the rear PTO.

Goodness knows when I'll actually be allowed to work on the Dormobile let alone Wallit.


Colin

[dolphint]

HI Colin,

If you want to get rid of the 2A GS I know a member on the forum that might be interested.

Cheers Steve.

PS mate we need to catch up!

[gromit]

Need to get back to this project, the Dormobile has taken up my limited spare time for a while. I've managed to sell the Series II LWB (so SWMBO is slightly happier), just need to get the motivation back....

Still need to get one doortop re-assembled and then fit the doors. I have new top hinges for the doors that came with a Defender mirror kit, problem is I need some lower hinges as mine are badly worn.
The bonnet can wait, it has rust vibrating out of the reinforcing ribs when the engine is running but it'll do for now.

Started & ran it at the weekend, no white smoke except when starting. The radiator cap started leaking but I realised I'd reused the original cap, a new one cured the problem.

Colin

[Lionelgee]

Hello Colin,

It is good to see you posting again about your work on Wallit. :)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Motor will be okay off road, but it will struggle on road with series gearing.

Took Wallit for a drive (just down my driveway) at the weekend. It accelerates well and pulled away from a standstill fairly briskly in second gear.
Considering it has the high ratio transfer box I was pleasantly surprised.

Another couple of C240 motors came up in the 'Complete Engines for Sale' section. That makes close to double figures the Land Rover C240 conversions I've seen advertised or know about.
Dellow must have done a few, I'd love to find some advertising for the conversion so I'll have to keep looking out for 70's & 80's 4WD magazines.

Still need to put some effort into some last bits & pieces on Wallit to finish it off. Problem is, as always, too many projects & too little time.......



Colin

[gromit]

Managed some time on Wallit today.
I've been working on the Dormobile but need a front axle (or some swivels with decent chrome) so that project has stalled at the moment. One of the fuel tanks is out of the IIa GS being worked on because of fuel going off & turning to lacquer.
Trees need pruning, septic system is playing up, wife's car needs some TLC but today I decided it was time to do something with Wallit.....

The doors were taken off a long time ago and replace with some spare ones. Doors were repaired, painted and the doortops were painted & glazed. Decided I'd fit one of the doors today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/323.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3602_zps1oekvfwa.jpg.html)


Should have done some preparation work because it took ages to rivet on the door capping, cut & fit the seal between door & doortop, find the hinge screws etc. etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/324.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3603_zpsedorbxhe.jpg.html)


Supplied with Wallit were a pair of Defender mirrors which although not period correct would look OK and be functional.
The bottom hinge needs to be replaced because the original is quite worn, the top one is new and came with the mirrors.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/325.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3604_zpsgdyocl97.jpg.html)


Next I decided to track down the intermittent fault with the reversing lights. Traced the wiring backwards & forwards and decided I had to lift the floors to get to the reverse switch. Switch turned out to be the problem but I had a new one in stock so problem fixed and the floors bolted back down.

Whilst under the car looking for the electrical fault I found that the propshaft gaiters & handbrake lever gaiter had decomposed. New maybe 3 years ago, not in direct sunlight but the rubber had perished......after-market parts strike again....
Not sure what to do about the propshaft gaiters but I may end up making a leather handbrake gaiter.

Need to glaze the drivers doortop and get the other door ready for fitting.


Colin

[Brad110]

What colour are our S3?

Do you know the name and paint code?

Regards Brad

[gromit]

Brad it's Spanish Olive.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/176610-spanish-olive-paint-code.html

Used by Leyland on Rover cars, Mini's etc. etc.


Colin

[gromit]

Spent yesterday changing the filter/sump on a ZF 6-speed box in the wife's Territory, followed by replacing the front diff bushes.
Took it out for a drive the other day and it wasn't changing 'right', found the sump (plastic) had a tiny crack in it and it was missing close to a litre of oil.
New plastic sump and some expensive oil to suit the ZF and it's back on the school run next week.
While under it I noticed the rear diff bushes are shot so that's next on the list......

Anyway, found time today to replace Wallit's drivers door.

The doortop assembly proved fun. I managed to find a piece of sliding glass that was about 5mm too short. When the top rail was screwed in the glass could still fall out. Hunted round and found another piece.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/572.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3627_zpsnyvmnars.jpg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/573.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3631_zpsi8mztkp9.jpg.html)


Took it down the drive for a run and noticed the speedo doesn't work, another thing for the list.

So the last few items (until I find some more) are:-

- Get the speedo working.
- Fix a leak from the passenger side swivel hub (the drain screw stripped and I put a thread insert in but it leaks....).
- Make some battery clamps, top plate is done just need some stainless steel rod and wing nuts.
- Paint the bonnet (that can probably wait).
- Insert the (expensive) heater valve back into the system.

All the lights work, the brakes work well (LWB, servo assisted), motor sounds good........

The Dormobile still needs swivels (or a complete front axle), the FFR needs a bumper the IIa GS needs doortops and the correct axles overhauled & fitted. Then there are the rear diff bushes on the Territory, the septic system that needs some work the above ground pool that collapsed (either fix it or remove it I'm told). Not sure when I'll get back to Wallit.......


Colin

[gromit]

Managed to dig up & repair the stormwater drain that was causing problems. Looked like it had been crushed soon after being installed so there was a restriction and a crack that roots were getting into.

After cutting the grass, washing cars etc. I found some time for Wallit.

Fitted the front valance. Wrinklearthur kindly sent me the mounting brackets some time ago (a long time ago in fact).


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/391.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3655_zps2spxen8m.jpg.html)


Then decided to chase down the speedo problem.
Pulled the instrument panel and found that the end of the cable that holds it to the speedo had come away. There were some signs of araldite so I found some 5 minute epoxy and about 1/2 hour later took it down the driveway. Still didn't work.

Disconnected the gearbox end and spun it up using a cordless drill, one of the boys confirmed that the speedo was working OK. Investigated the end that fits into the gearbox and the inner was oval rather than square.
Found a new cable in-stock which was slightly longer (pattern parts ?) fitted that and it works now........

Need to get the swivel hub leak fixed and it's nearly there.

As I tidied up I heard some strange noises down the garden as the light levels dropped, turns out the Tawny Frogmouths are back nesting again......



Colin

[debruiser]

He's looking good! I've never been drawn to that colour before but it's actually pretty nice :D

[gromit]

He's looking good! I've never been drawn to that colour before but it's actually pretty nice :D

It's not a bad colour but I need to decide whether to paint the rest of the panels as only the doors, front panel drivers side wing & valance have been repainted. The rest are showing a patchy darker green.

You'll see the colour on Mini's, Rover cars, P76's etc. Seems to have been a 'Leyland' colour.


Colin

[gromit]

Looks like I've fixed the leak on the front swivel hub.
I had to helicoil the drain plug thread some time ago and the drain plug didn't seal properly.

Looks like the Tawny Frogmouths have two young this year.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/757.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF4227_zpsynhpopup.jpg.html)


Dad is usually nearby keeping an eye on things.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/758.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF4222_zps3kmpvbjf.jpg.html)


As it gets dusk he heads off hunting.


Colin

[gromit]

Decided the other week that I need to make the battery hold-downs from stainless steel.

Surprising how cheap it is, 4mtr of 304 stainless 6mm diameter was under $7. More expensive was a HSS die but the stainless wing nuts were very cheap.
Cut, bent & threaded the hold-downs tonight.

I'm also going to experiment with leather gaiters for the Hi/Lo & handbrake levers. fed up with the poor quality rubbers that disintegrate while you watch.
I'm making a couple of templates to help cut out a washer made from 5mm leather to support the gaiters where they're clamped. The washer will be sewn to the gaiter. Just need to find some time to play around and make one to see what it looks like. It won't be as waterproof as a rubber one but will keep the dust out, mind you if the rubber one has split a leather one would do a better job !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/754.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3658_zpsk3v4d8g7.jpg.html)



Colin

[gromit]

Wallit now has a leather handbrake gaiter.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/372.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN3666_zps4kxxhg3r.jpg.html)


This was a trial fit (only a couple of screws fitted). I'll apply some neatsfoot oil to the leather to waterproof & soften it.

Looks OK and much better that the aftermarket rubbers which break down in a remarkably short time.

Details of making it here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2440711#post2440711




Colin

[gromit]

Getting close to some test runs.

Just took out fully comp insurance.
$4K agreed value, Club Permit (90 days use per year) insurance $68 for the year.

A couple of minor issues and a few things like replacing the bonnet, painting the roof etc. but they can wait........


Colin

[gromit]

Took Wallit for a short run tonight.

Starts OK, accelerates OK, gearbox AOK (nice to have full synchro). Usual whine from the axles but there was a distinct knock when hitting a bump in the road or low speed turns.

Went back home and couldn't replicate the knock by jumping on the bumper, pushing wheels sideways etc.etc.

I can remember that one of the axle U-bolts stripped it's threads but I don't remember replacing it so maybe it's letting the leaf spring move. Another option is the front propshaft hitting the sump plug on the motor (they are very close). I'll look for witness marks on the sump plug later in the week and check all the U-bolts.

Checked the speedo with a GPS and it's reading low, I'll have to look at the number on it and work out whether changing the head will fix things.

I'm still nervous about the home-made flywheel so I'll get to the bottom of the knock and then do some more short trips......


Colin

[gromit]

Took Wallit for another run.
During the week I found the suspect U-bolt & replaced it and also went over the suspension bolts.
No sign of the front propshaft hitting anything.

Just a couple of Kms down the road I lost all drive ! Turned out the transfer box had dropped into neutral. There is a lot of sound deadening material that restricts the lever movement so I'll put it down to that for the moment.

Still had the knock when turning or hitting bumps !!

The PO had freewheel hubs which I removed, I'm tempted to put them back on and see if the problem goes away.


The Frogmouths are getting ready to leave, most nights the young are getting flying lessons.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/274.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF4435_zpsbqaugmre.jpg.html)


Colin

[gromit]

Managed a few more test runs over the Christmas break.
Each time a horrible knock that seemed to be under my feet as I cornered or hit bumps.
Tightened bolts, stripped off the plate under the guard today to check the steering box.....finally lowered it down on the jack and then pushed on the bumper and there was the knock.

Had the young bloke raising Wallit on the jack, lowering and then pushing on the bumper, eventually tracked it down to a loose bush in the leaf spring on the drivers side ?
Sounded much worse when out on the road but was just the spring moving and hitting the drop plates.

Cure is to fit replacement springs or get the eye re-set. Temporary bodge was to squish the outer case of the bush in a couple of spots so it grips. Also found a polybush and cut the flange off and fitted this so it isn't metal to metal if it moves.

Took it out for a run tonight and noise gone !!

Found that the temperature gauge has stopped working so need to look into that but otherwise it went well, kept up with traffic, wasn't too noisy (except at tickover where the whole car shakes).
Got to an indicated 90kph but need to take the GPS out again and confirm the actual speed.

Lots of little things to finish off but at least I can jump in & drive it now (after completing the logbook of course).


Colin

[gromit]

Took it out for a longer run tonight.
Still worried about the lack of temp gauge but waiting for a replacement sender.
Seemed to keep up with the traffic OK, young bloke had a speedo app on his phone. At 90kph it's actually doing 100kph ! Yes 100kph with more to go ......

In a 60 limit it really wants to be in 3rd gear to be able to accelerate (probably due to the high ratio transfer box) also have to remember to change down for steep hills otherwise it looses momentum.

The clunk from the leaf spring has come back, looks like I'll have to find some other rear springs or maybe pull the bush and fit a polybush (not a fan of them but a cheap fix)


Still lots of little things to tidy up, started stripping the paint off a spare bonnet today. All the rivets are flat topped where someone has sanded it in the past, about 5 layers of paint, several areas of filler plus a few areas now needing filler &/or panel beating. Still better than the one fitted where the steel ribs are rotten and rust falls out every time you close it !


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/201.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3785_zps0zc1vtoo.jpg.html)


Colin

[gromit]

Took Wallit for a drive to the beach tonight.
Holds 100Kph without any issues and can get to 80Kph in 3rd.

Transfer box has dropped into neutral a couple of times, did it again tonight. Not really looking forward to taking the transfer box out so I need to investigate the selector and see if there is a problem when the engine/gearbox moves on the mounts.

There's always something that needs looking at........

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/80.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/20160207_194848_zpsibimjmwz.jpg.html)



Colin

[mick88]

Looks very smart.


Cheers, Mick.

[slug_burner]

Looks great.

[gromit]

Looks very smart.

Cheers, Mick.


Looks great.


With the sun behind it you don't see the patchy paintwork, different coloured bonnet etc.etc. but thanks anyway.
More concerned about the mechanical aspects at the moment.

Plan is to remove the roof to re-paint at some point (I have a temporary replacement).

Last night was a 50km round trip and the longest I've done since getting Wallit.
So far there is the temperature gauge to sort, transfer box to look at and the passenger side vent flap which was flapping around at speed yesterday (drivers side was OK).


Colin

[dickyjoe]

Loving reading this rebuild thread! Loved the machining work and reading about the Isuzu engine! You're giving lots of us motivation to get into our projects!!

[gromit]

Loving reading this rebuild thread! Loved the machining work and reading about the Isuzu engine! You're giving lots of us motivation to get into our projects!!

Problem is it's taken soooooo long.
I haven't really had the motivation for a while and have been doing bits here & there. Then the Dormobile came along and my focus changed.

It's good to have Wallit sitting there registered so that if I get bored I can just jump in & go for a drive. Need to get some of the minor bugs sorted and get some Kms on the clock.

My boys want to be taken to Scouts in it this Wednesday (a bit different to the vehicles most kids turn up in). They also want to be collected in it which will give the lights a trial run.


Colin

[dickyjoe]

ooh. do you have a dormobile forum thread post?

I reckon they are a great machine!

[gromit]

ooh. do you have a dormobile forum thread post?

I reckon they are a great machine!

Yes, in the 'Dormobile & Carawoagon Conversion' section.........

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/dormobile-carawagon-conversions/214323-walter-dormobile.html


Colin

[gromit]

Temperature sender replaced, couldn't wait for part from UK so purchased locally. UK 1.95GBP local $16.50, even when you factor in GST it's a big difference.

Sender fitted straight into the Isuzu so not sure if it was the same thread originally or modified as part of the conversion.

Someone has found me a polybush & crush tube for the spring eye that won't grip the bush so should be able to collect later next week and cross another item off the list.

Out for a drive the other evening and traveling at speed through Narre Warren when the traffic stopped suddenly. Managed to smoke the tyres so the drum brakes aren't a problem but tyre grip is !
Part of the problem might be LWB brakes & servo with no weight in the back of a shorty, might also be the s/h Road Grippers.....



Colin

[gromit]

The transfer box has jumped into neutral almost every time I've taken Wallit for a drive, I'd looked at the linkage & gear lever to make sure that nothing was restricting the travel and all was OK.
A new transfer box detent plunger & spring came in the last consignment of spares from the UK.
Today I finally got round to pulling the seats out and having a look at the situation.


With the toolbox under the centre seat removed I removed the small cover plate on the transfer box and also the detent spring & cap.
Holding my finger on the detent plunger and changing from High to Low allowed me to feel the three detent positions.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/605.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/IMG_0419_zpsnt7p2aev.jpg.html)


Neutral & Low were OK, so was High but looking in the transfer box there was a little more movement left after the detent position to fully engage High.
I undid the clamp bolt on the selector fork and slid it forward a fraction (there is a cutout in the shaft the bolt locates in so very little movement available). Re-tightened the bolt and now at the detent position it had better engagement.

The detent plunger was worn at the end and the spring had been stretched at some point in it's life. The wire diameter was thicker than the replacement but it seemed to have about the same compression.

Here are the old parts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/606.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN3971_zps0jlzeh3f.jpg.html)

So back together and off for a run (after filling in my logbook). Didn't get time to go far but no issues with dropping into neutral, need a longer run next weekend.


Colin

[gromit]

Took Wallit out for a run in the cold this morning.
Unfortunately no garage space so Wallit sits outside. This meant it was a while before the windows demisted and it was raining inside from the condensation on the inside of the roof !

Drove to Imlachs in Clayton (a self-serve wreckers) to get some parts for one of the boy's Subaru's. Transfer box stayed engaged the whole trip there & back so hopefully another thing ticked off the list.

Too cold/wet for paintwork so the replacement bonnet will have to wait, the one fitted is shedding rust from the ribs that are rusting away.


Colin

[gromit]

Wallit has been used locally on a fairly regular basis and the transfer box is now behaving itself.

At the weekend I decided to check all the oils. Transfer & gearbox were down a bit and one front swivel hub was low, I've been having problems since I found the drain plug was stripped. I helicoiled it but it still doesn't want to seal properly.

Everything else was OK.

Sitting on the driveway idling Wallit does shake around, I think I've mentioned previously that I was thinking about raising the tickover a bit. Anyway, a lot of noise was coming from the rear door top stays rattling around. Some of the Terry clips had been doubled up by the previous owner (a clip within a clip) and a few bits of rubber slipped on here & there. After looking & fiddling I found that the pop rivet that held one of the Terry clips in place had worked loose. Drilled it out and fitted another sealed rivet and the rattling stopped !

Must do a bit more prep on the spare bonnet and get ready for painting when the weather warms up a bit. I also need to recover the dash which is held together with insulating tape.


Colin

[gromit]

I did a run to Harkaway Scout camp last week and had the opportunity to try low range. No jumping out so happy that the transfer box is sorted.

Still getting a few clunks on cornering. Seems to be the leaf springs moving on the bushes (grease the bolt but not the outside of the bush where it fits into the spring !). Fixed one with a polybush but still have a problem.
May tidy up the rear springs I took off the Series III wagon I've just parted out, fit new bushes (without grease) and see if that fixes it !

There is a water leak that allows the rear tub to take on a cupful or two when it rains, seems to be where the sidepanels meet the capping on the tub. Checking a spare sidepanel it looks as though the seal was originally a special extrusion that latched in place. I've seen companies selling just a rectangular EPDM sponge extrusion to replace it instead.
Anyone replaced these seals. I'd be interested to find out what works before I start the job.


Colin

[mick88]

Colin I bought some black foam/spongey rubber recently to do exactly what you are talking about, plus for a seal around the rear safari door. It is about 12mm thick and I got it from CC Components who are conveyor belt and matting specialists. They have a good stock of rubber products. For the rear door seal I intend to stick two pieces together to ensure a good seal.


Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Mick,

I know CC Components, used to deal with them in Mildura, they were a reseller for a pneumatic company I worked for..

I've found a company locally that actually extrude the seal so hoping to buy direct (cut out all the middle men) but I might have to buy a 30mtr roll which even by my standards is excessive.

From my rough measurements it seems to need 12mm x 20mm to do the job.

The alternative is to add it to the next order from Paddocks, not sure if they sell the correct profile or just the rectangular section.


Colin

[rangieman]

Mick,

I know CC Components, used to deal with them in Mildura, they were a reseller for a pneumatic company I worked for..

I've found a company locally that actually extrude the seal so hoping to buy direct (cut out all the middle men) but I might have to buy a 30mtr roll which even by my standards is excessive.

From my rough measurements it seems to need 12mm x 20mm to do the job.

The alternative is to add it to the next order from Paddocks, not sure if they sell the correct profile or just the rectangular section.


Colin

Colin maybe see if there is a call for more people to hop in on the 30 mtr roll maybe group buy .
Depending on cost it could work out good for all concerned . I know i could use some until i go the rag top;)

[mick88]

Count me in on a group buy.


Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

I'd better see if they will sell to me, also I'd better double check the size needed !

Colin

[gromit]

Looks like 25mm x 13mm EPDM sponge extrusion is about right.
The foam will be compressed tight against the capping on the tub (might need a bit of effort getting the sidepanel to sit down in the correct position). The nearest alternative is 22mm x 12mm.

I found some 25mm x 13mm I'd purchased from 4-Wheel Drives some years back so it's probably the best size......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/735.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN4144_zpsux2mlnu8.jpg.html)

The original was moulded with an undercut to latch under the angled strip. There are also traces of what looks like glue that held it into place.


Colin

[gromit]

I did a quick investigation today into the seal.
25mm x 13mm rectangular.

Direct from the extruder $6.5 per mtr. must buy 30mtr roll and probably have to pay GST.

4-Wheel Drives $22 for a length to suit a SWB (1.8mtr) so about $12.22 per metre.

Paddocks, a moulded profile (not plain rectangular) 6.11 GBP for 1.8 mtr.
333487 | Seal - hardtop to body - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/333487-seal-hardtop-to-body.html)

Might check Clarke Rubber.....

Just checked the length and it's just under 1.7mtr for a shorty.


Colin

[mick88]

Colin, what are your plans for a group buy?
I need about 6 metres but I am happy to go 1/3's in a roll if you don't have the numbers.


Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Colin, what are your plans for a group buy?
I need about 6 metres but I am happy to go 1/3's in a roll if you don't have the numbers.


Cheers, Mick.

Mick,

One more company to approach and as the company I work for supplies them......maybe I can swing a discount.
Hope to do that next week.

I only need enough for 1 shortie & 1 wagon (7 metres).


Colin

[gromit]

Spent an hour or so chasing electrical problems today.

Wallit came with a towball & 7-pin plug but I've never tried it out. I need to take the trailer out tomorrow so thought I'd see if the wiring to the plug was OK.
Connected the trailer and the sidelights & brake lights were OK but the left hand indicator wasn't working. Checked the globe in the trailer first and after some investigation tracked the problem down to a Scotchlok behind the rear crossmember. Not really a fan of these connectors but inside a vehicle they are OK, anyway, re-fitted it and all fixed for now.

Re-connected the trailer and then realised there is nowhere to attach the safety chains, maybe not something that was needed back in the 70's


If used at night the instrument lights are a bit dim so got a box of the correct globes and replaced them, in daylight it didn't seem much better but I 'll find out after dark....Probably the instruments want cleaning inside.

Haven't got onto the foam strip yet, hopefully next week.


Colin

[gromit]

Noticed under heavy braking that Wallit was pulling to the right.
Found some time yesterday and pulled the left brake drums......turned out that the hub seal on the front was leaking.

Now that Wallit is being used fairly regularly the grease in the hubs is gradually getting mixed with oil. For some reason the hub seal wasn't sealing properly (nothing obvious).

Degreased the linings as best I could (the contamination wasn't that bad) and re-assembled with a new seal. Must get round to casting my eye over the drums the other side.

Colin

[gromit]

Sourced the foam seal for under the side panels, size is 25mm x 13mm

PM me if you are interested, about 1/2 the normal price.

The company is looking into door seal extrusion, they have the dies and can produce in their Malaysian factory. Just waiting for price & minimum order quantity.


Colin

[mick88]

Sourced the foam seal for under the side panels, size is 25mm x 13mm

PM me if you are interested, about 1/2 the normal price.

The company is looking into door seal extrusion, they have the dies and can produce in their Malaysian factory. Just waiting for price & minimum order quantity.


Colin


Door seal rubber would be fabulous as I am in the market for some of that too!


Cheers, Mick.

[TimNZ]

PM Sent Colin.

Cheers,

[rangieman]

Pm Sent ;)
Thankyou Colin:thumbsup:

[gromit]

Managed to find some time at the weekend to do a bit more work on the bonnet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/222.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/IMG_0825_zpsnnznufr0.jpg.html)

Gradually replacing every pop rivet as someone has sanded it down in the past and sanded down the rivets !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/223.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/IMG_0824_zpsio50gffg.jpg.html)

Went to a wreckers in Dandenong at the weekend to get some parts to fix the wife's Territory and got a few strange looks turning up in Wallit.
Starts and drives well but still a few clonks from the leaf springs on cornering. I'm replacing the bushes in the springs from the LWB wagon I parted out and will fit these at some point in the future.


Colin

[mick88]

Probably had them wondering!
The late model Territory has conked out and the 1970's Landy is still a runner!

[gromit]

Nearly 'lost' the back of the garage a few days ago.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/170.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/IMG_0811_zpsp2iyrssn.jpg.html)

We have a number of spruce (I think) trees along the back of the property. I was working outside and heard a crack, sounded like someone was firing into the tree, then another crack and so on. Over an hour I kept hearing cracks, one dislodged a few cones so I thought it must be about to drop, the worry was if it twisted it was going to crush the back of the garage. Three of us were outside and actually watched it drop.

Had to call a company in to deal with it. Made a good job but......asked the wife if anyone wanted the timber. Problem is spruce burns fast and is resinous so OK for a rental property or a camp fire so I was lumbered (!) with moving a shed load of timber off the garden.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/171.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/IMG_0829_zpsjyv0cvu4.jpg.html)

Anyone near Narre warren want some rubbish firewood ??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/172.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/IMG_0838_zpsb7dftvcy.jpg.html)


Next job is to fix next door's fence before I can get back to working on Land Rovers.

Colin

[Gordie]

Looks like Macrocarpa to me, far from rubbish firewood...great firewood.

[gromit]

I was about to take Wallit for a run the other night and thought I'd make a few checks.
Noticed oil on the inside of the tyre from the drivers side swivel hub. Only a couple of drips but something to keep an eye on then thought I'd check the clutch fluid level.

Never seen anything like it.......Level was down but there was a substance almost like grease in the reservoir ??!! Whether it's condensation (Wallit isn't kept under cover) reacting with the brake fluid or what I don't know.
Clutch worked OK but whether it was running on the 'grease' rather than fluid who knows.

Cleaned the reservoir out (didn't take any pictures unfortunately) topped up & bled the system a few times and only fluid came through. Something else to keep an eye on....

Noticed the Tawny Frogmouths have nested again. Earlier in the year in the high winds a nest was blown out of the tree and I found one of the young on the ground, took it to a local wildlife place but it didn't make it. Seems that they have had another brood. Much higher up in the tree this year but I'll have to try & get some photos.


Colin

[mick88]

Colin have you considered using DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid, it does not have a predisposition to attracting moisture, so excellent for vehicles that are used infrequently.
The Tawny's here have reared two young this year.
There was another pair nesting a few hundred metres away, but I am not sure of the outcome there.


Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Colin have you considered using DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid, it does not have a predisposition to attracting moisture, so excellent for vehicles that are used infrequently.


Cheers, Mick.

Re: DOT 5....yes I have considered it but you need a completely new system i.e. no old brake fluid present.
As parts of Wallit's brake system are original there is the chance of contaminating the DOT5 and losing the benefits.

I purchased some back in the UK mid 90's but never used it and have always stuck with DOT 3/4/4plus but changed it every 3 years. Never had an issue like this before.

Interesting that RDA suggest it may be more compressible. RDA Brakes, The Big Brakes Company. | Brake Fluid Information (http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/page/TB04.aspx)


I did get a problem with a previous Territory. Brake fluid had a strange deposit and floaty bits in it. This was with the OEM fluid after 3years and replacement DOT4 Plus ended up the same after a couple of years.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/384.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Territory/DSCN0954.jpg.html)

All sorts of doom & gloom in replies on the Ford forum (how often do you get that on forums.....) but never had an issue with the brakes just changed the fluid more frequently.


Colin

[mick88]

I just flush the system/s with metho then fill with DOT 5 and have not had any issues. I have found the easiest place to get it is at Harley shops. Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Mick,
Metho is Ethanol which absorbs water (in fact on the bottle it states minimum 95% Ethanol because up to 5% can be water).
I guess as long as it's all flushed out with the DOT5 it should be OK.

My local oil blender used to carry it but it's not listed on their website. I'll have a look when I next visit.


Colin

[gromit]

Managed to get a picture of the Tawny Frogmouths today.

Mum & Dad were nearby.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/239.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF5777_zpstwctiyv5.jpg.html)


Colin

[67hardtop]

Managed to get a picture of the Tawny Frogmouths today.

Mum & Dad were nearby.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/239.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF5777_zpstwctiyv5.jpg.html)


Colin

Another pic for my collection. Love Tawney Frog Mouths.

Cheers Rod🎅

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[JDNSW]

Another pic for my collection. Love Tawney Frog Mouths.

Cheers Rod🎅


When I was a fairly young teenager, I was climbing a tree at a schoolfriend's house, and was about twenty feet up when, climbing sort of round the trunk of the tree (stringybark from memory) I came face to face with one of these about two feet away. I don't know who was more surprised. Rapid descent followed!

John

[gromit]

The young Tawny Frogmouths are taking short flights between the branches of the trees, have to hunt them down each morning because they have moved.

Last night one flew over the house and I heard the scraping of claws on tin, it'd managed to land on the ridge of the roof. A bit later it was back in the trees.

One was separated from the others today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/4.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF5961_zpsamuk8bv6.jpg.html)

Colin

[gromit]

Got home late tonight but decided to take Wallit for a short drive down to the local Woodwork Club. It hasn't had a run for a few weeks and I have plenty of 'days' left on the Club Permit.

Got to the Club and found the reverse gate not working so it was difficult to find first gear. Drove home just now, cautiously searching for 1st & 2nd gear without the reverse gate, got onto the driveway and found I can't select reverse at all now (gate working but jammed ?).
I was originally thinking it was a spring broken but not so sure now so looks like I'll be investigating tomorrow night !

There's always something to fix !


Colin

[gromit]

Managed to detour past 4-Wheel Drives on the way home and got some reverse gate springs.

Lifted the sound deadening, floors the and found that the reverse gate had broken ! A bit narrow to weld, maybe make a new plate and then I thought I'd look at a couple of spare gearboxes I have.....sorted.

Well nearly but not quite ! I looked at a Series I, Series IIa & Series III box and the two bolts that mount the reverse gate were vertical (one above the other) whereas mine are horizontal (side by side) !! There must have been a change to late Series III gearboxes.

The broken one from Wallit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/671.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN4298_zps8xoyl3pm.jpg.html)

One down in the back shed (Series III).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/672.jpg

(http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN4302_zpsnya7aj0k.jpg.html)Looks like I'll be making one unless someone has one on a gearbox that they don't need or a spare. I guess I could change the whole selector rod assembly but then I end up with a gearbox that's incomplete.

Just found the part in the UK, genuine LR so might be worth trying here if I can't find a secondhand unit FRC3947 | Hinge Gate Assembly - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/frc3947-hinge-gate-assembly.html)

Happy days.....


Colin

[gromit]

Decided this morning to weld it back together rather than wait till I can find/buy one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/641.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN4303_zpshmdo7xzl.jpg.html)


A bit fiddly to re-assemble onto the gear selector rod because of the springs but got there after a few attempts.
I'll keep looking for another one as a spare.



Colin

[gromit]

Thanks to Photobucket all the photos are now held to ransom.
Not sure how to re-insert plus have to spend a lot of time uploading and adding links if possible.....


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/107.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ve2eDx)20160207_194853 (https://flic.kr/p/Ve2eDx) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



Colin

[gromit]

Still haven't replaced all the photos of Wallit yet, started but not finished, my wife will tell you this is the norm for any of my 'projects'.......

Noticed a dark stain on the gravel under Wallit and decided to investigate.
The fuel lines are as purchased. I found a tube within a tube to join from the diesel sedimenter to the Isuzu fuel pump but no leaks then I noticed the return line to the tank was weeping. One end had no hose clamp but of course that wasn't the end that was leaking, got some hose & clamps ready, laid underneath and pulled the hose, which of course snapped and then fuel was siphoned from the tank out of the hose and up my arms as I laid underneath. Eventually got it sorted and spent the rest of the day smelling of diesel !
I need to check through some of the other parts that haven't been touched since I've owned it and look for potential problems.

Other than that it starts easily and drives well so time to organise a few bigger trips. The bonnet will hopefully get painted later this year and I need to lift the roof and replace the seals under the side panels, while I'm doing that I should paint the side panels and fit new window rubbers.

The Tawny Frogmouths are back, I'll get some photos over the coming weeks.

The Father-in-Law gave me his old welding bench (I'm normally welding things on the floor), he purchased a nice new bench from Hare & Forbes some time ago.
His old one uses a car jack to lower a set of lawnmower wheels (Ogden Industries ?) to move it around. The handle drops down out of the way once you've transported it to where it's to be used. There is a frame underneath which held his old stick welder and various brackets for goodness knows what.
Made from whatever was available and modified as the usage changed.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/28.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y31Bx6)DSCN4532 (https://flic.kr/p/Y31Bx6) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/29.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Z4dtC8)DSCN4533 (https://flic.kr/p/Z4dtC8) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[gromit]

Took my boys for a drive in the Series I at the weekend and one of them remarked "the Series I is more refined than Wallit' ???
Full synchro box, keeps up with the traffic flow, brakes work well (for an old Land Rover) ???

Turned out it was more about the noise level. Partly the Isuzu motor but also some transmission whine. Took Wallit out for a drive last night and there is a distinct whine under acceleration or deceleration so I might have to change the diff at some point.
All I did was drain & refill it, never stripped it out to check.

Another item on the ever growing list.


Colin

[gromit]

Picked up a replacement bonnet for Wallit last week, another enthusiast, restoring a military IIa, going to Cooma etc. etc.
The existing bonnet showers you with rust as you open & close it because the ribs have rusted through. OK as a temporary measure, in fact I'm working on another.......so why did I need this one ? Well it was only $20.

Forgot to post pictures of the Frogmouth's a while back.

About a month ago, you can just make out two balls of fluff in front of mum.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/435.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21r9mNq)DSCF6743 (https://flic.kr/p/21r9mNq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Here they are now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/436.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21r9sdU)DSCF6779 (https://flic.kr/p/21r9sdU) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Interestingly, mum is back on the nest.....another brood already ???
Mum top left, kids bottom right.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/437.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21r9gCW)DSCF6776 (https://flic.kr/p/21r9gCW) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



Colin

[67hardtop]

I wanna visit you one day Colin, just to see the birdies. Ive always loved Tawney Frogmouths...

Cheers Rod

[gromit]

I wanna visit you one day Colin, just to see the birdies. Ive always loved Tawney Frogmouths...

Cheers Rod


They're back year after year and seem to have two broods.

The fun part is watching the young take their first flights at dusk. Then each morning trying to find where they are in the trees.


Colin

[gromit]

Took Wallit for a drive to the Rob Roy hillclimb today.

Starts & drives well apart from the diff whine. Temperature fairly constant, brakes pull a bit to the right (need to look into that), kept up with the traffic except for a few long hills.
The Isuzu motor needs glowing even on a hot day otherwise it won't start.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/604.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21FraYF)DSCF6933 (https://flic.kr/p/21FraYF) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


The gentleman in the red Merc stopped to chat. Seemed to know about 80" Series I's but didn't realise Wallit was mid 70's.


Colin

[mick88]

Colin how is it for engine with the Isuzu?
Or does the diff howl drown it out?
It certainly looks good, pick of the bunch there. ;)
It must be a jap thing with these industrial type diesels needing to be glowed.
We drove Daihatsu diesels for years (2.5 DG's and 2.8 DL's) and they always needed glowing,
even if they had been running and then sat for three or four hours. You certainly couldn't rob
a bank with one, they would catch you while you were trying to glow it.

Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Colin how is it for engine with the Isuzu?
Or does the diff howl drown it out?
It certainly looks good, pick of the bunch there. ;)
It must be a jap thing with these industrial type diesels needing to be glowed.
We drove Daihatsu diesels for years (2.5 DG's and 2.8 DL's) and they always needed glowing,
even if they had been running and then sat for three or four hours. You certainly couldn't rob
a bank with one, they would catch you while you were trying to glow it.

Cheers, Mick.

Mick,
The diff noise is quite bad accelerating or on the overrun.
Previous owner made an attempt at soundproofing the inside but the diesel is quite noisy still. Can hold a conversation with the passengers but you need to be able to lip read [smilebigeye]
The good thing is that it will keep up with modern traffic (thanks to the high speed transfer box), accelerates quite well and will do 80kph comfortably in 3rd. In a 60kph limit you really need to drop it into 3rd.

I can see why these motors were fitted in the 70's/80's. Dellow mentioned that they had done quite a few but didn't have exact figures. Several have come up for sale but mostly LWB, the motor for this one was taken from a LWB apparently.
When you look under the bonnet it looks like the Isuzu was meant to be there, nice conversion and I have a spare motor & conversion plate (found after the flywheel was made !!!).

Seems quite frugal on diesel but haven't done any figures to prove that, maybe on a long trip in the future......


Colin

[gromit]

I had to replace every pop-rivet on the bonnet I got from Gumtree.
Electrolytic corrosion, you just had to push the back of the rivets and they snapped off. 34 rivets in a bonnet.
The spare wheel mount has been bolted on with undersized bolts, I'm sure these are normally riveted on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/808.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GSZddc)DSCN4589 (https://flic.kr/p/GSZddc) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[gromit]

We've had ongoing problems with our phone line, 4 weeks, two 'technicians' and two Telstra contractors. I had to wait for another contractor today so decided to work on Wallit because it's on the front driveway.

I've been threatening to replace the seals under the hardtop for some time, every time it rains I have to bail out the tub.
I was waiting until I get time to remove the roof & sides to paint but that's never going to happen so I got stuck in today.

Firstly removed all the nuts & bolts that hold the sides to the tub then loosened the bolts that hold the roof to the windscreen. Then stood inside, got my shoulders in the door opening, lifted and stuck a length of wood in to hold the roof up. The boys were still in bed because it was only 9.30am.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/731.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DjRxgx)DSCN4603 (https://flic.kr/p/DjRxgx) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The original seal has a special profile that latches into the sides, I'd sourced some rectangular sponge seal and managed to get this to 'latch' into place, you need to use an old screwdriver (not too sharp) to compress the foam and get it to grip under the lip. I notched the back of the foam at the corners to get it to fit neatly.

Bolted back in place there is no longer a gap under the sides so it should keep the rain out.
While reassembling I took the opportunity to fit a few missing bolts that hold the roof to the sides and the roof to windscreen.

As for the phone.....contractor said he'd fixed the cause of the spurious voltage seen on our phone line. After he left the router dropped out for about 4 hours then after it rained a bit we got a speed of 0.86 Mbps (!) then after a while it jumped to 6.68Mbps. Problems seem to relate to the weather but dealing with the provider has been a pain. Currently with the ombudsman........


Colin

[gromit]

Rained quite heavily this afternoon/evening, tub remained dry (hooray) but there are a couple of other leaks I have to cure.
Water is getting in over both doors, there has been an attempt by the previous owner to seal the roof to gutter but it looks like I need to re-visit this area. There is no way I'm going to separate the roof from the gutter.....too many rivets..... so I'll clean out the old sealant and try and re-seal.

Wouldn't be a problem if it was stored under cover but unfortunately it sits outside.


Colin

[gromit]

The way the gutter/roof surround is designed any leaks get 'contained' in the surround so Land Rover put in a couple of extra drain holes......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/754.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Dmh9fM)Roof leak (https://flic.kr/p/Dmh9fM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I guess it's a good idea but what it means is the water comes out behind the aluminium strip that holds the top door seal then drips to the floor splashing up the inside of the door & slowly filling the footwell.

Until I get the roof re-sealed I decided to block these holes, I just have to remember to mop out the roof surround which with years of dust & dirt plus water is very muddy. I had to drill out two of the screws that hold the door seal into place, 2BA pan head slotted screws are hard to find so I used some Phillips head 10-32 UNF screws I had available. To fill the holes I used the mastic strip I obtained for installing window glass, cut off a small piece & rolled into a ball.
There is another drain hole directly over each B-pillar and possibly some more down the back.

I need to scrape out the old sealant on the roof and clean up & re-seal but until then I can mop out the surround after heavy rain.
Separating the roof from the surround and sealing properly would be the best solution but would take far too long, plus I'd have to source a lot of special rivets https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/rivets/series2-s3.htm (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rivets-5-32-Semi-Tubular-Truss-Head-x50-for-Land-Rover-Series-2-3-Roof-Gutter/320978441364?hash=item4abbce5494:m:mQBhc29UEUZBVBK AaYl9BBA)

If the roof was 'mint' I might consider it, unfortunately it isn't..........

Colin

[JDNSW]

I had to replace every pop-rivet on the bonnet I got from Gumtree.
Electrolytic corrosion, you just had to push the back of the rivets and they snapped off. 34 rivets in a bonnet.
The spare wheel mount has been bolted on with undersized bolts, I'm sure these are normally riveted on.

Colin

Most wheel mounts were probably fitted by the dealer, and few of these would have been equipped to use solid rivets. Most seem to be pop riveted, but pop riveters were not a standard piece of workshop equipment until the 1960s or even 1970s in some places, so whatever bolts were on hand would sometimes be used.

[gromit]

Most wheel mounts were probably fitted by the dealer, and few of these would have been equipped to use solid rivets. Most seem to be pop riveted, but pop riveters were not a standard piece of workshop equipment until the 1960s or even 1970s in some places, so whatever bolts were on hand would sometimes be used.

John,

The bonnet was pop riveted together which seems normal for Series III so I would have guessed it dates from the 70's.
All the Series III spare wheel mounts I've seen have been pop riveted into place whereas on my IIa Dormobile solid rivets are used (factory fitted probably).

The bolts used were 4BA which is a bit on the small side......anyway, pop rivets now fitted.


Colin

[gromit]

Moved Wallit yesterday and while it was idling I was investigating the leak from the roof.

The vibration of the Isuzu has caused a lot of cracking on wings, sills etc and I probably wasn't at all surprised at what I found.......
I was feeling the join between the roof panel and the gutter and I felt movement ! As the engine ticks over the roof panel is moving relative to the gutter !
One rivet is missing and several others are loose.

As mentioned before Wallit's roof is far from perfect so it's probably not worth taking it apart and fixing it. Looks like another roof and/or a lot of rivets, sealant and a clinching tool.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/400.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DHb3fB)Roof leak 2 (https://flic.kr/p/DHb3fB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[chazza]

Getting the sealant into the seam is the first problem and how will it stick to all of the dust and muck that is bound to be in there?

I separated the roof on my S3 and used Sikaflex and pop-rivets to glue it all together again; there was dirt all the way around, along with rock-hard pieces of cracked sealant and someone else's silicone attempt.

Dinty might know where to get the rivets,

Cheers Charlie

[67hardtop]

Id just use sealed pop rivets. If u got them use cleco's to hold the roof panel in place after youve used the sealant between the two halves. Monstrous job by urself if u use a silicone type sealant coz it'll go off before the rivets are all in. Maybe a windscreen type mastic sealer that doesnt go hard. Can get it from bunnings.

Cheers Rod

[gromit]

Getting the sealant into the seam is the first problem and how will it stick to all of the dust and muck that is bound to be in there?

I separated the roof on my S3 and used Sikaflex and pop-rivets to glue it all together again; there was dirt all the way around, along with rock-hard pieces of cracked sealant and someone else's silicone attempt.

Dinty might know where to get the rivets,

Cheers Charlie


Id just use sealed pop rivets. If u got them use cleco's to hold the roof panel in place after youve used the sealant between the two halves. Monstrous job by urself if u use a silicone type sealant coz it'll go off before the rivets are all in. Maybe a windscreen type mastic sealer that doesnt go hard. Can get it from bunnings.

Cheers Rod

Thanks guys.
Correct rivets you can get from the UK, problem is that if I'm going to do the job I need a better roof panel. You also need to make a suitable rivet squeezer.

S2/3 Rivets & Fixings (https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/rivets/series2-s3.htm)

Rod, yes you'd have to work fast if you use a modern sealant. Mastic tends not to fully set, not sure whether a Sikaflex panel sealant would be better.

Need to find a better roof first.


Colin



Colin

[gromit]

Haven't done much on Wallit and still on the lookout for a roof.
It rained at the weekend and I still have some leaks to fix around the drivers door area......

Noticed a young Tawny Frogmouth on it's own the other day then noticed Dad on a branch nearby (I read that Dad stays with the young during the day).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/634.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23xHUKH)DSCF7021 (https://flic.kr/p/23xHUKH) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Went to a wildlife park the other day and they had a Tawny Frogmouth. My kids couldn't understand why people would go there to see a Tawny but we just go out into our garden.......


Colin

[67hardtop]

Thanks Colin. Another pic for my tawny collection. All from you. Hope u dont mind😉

Cheers Rod

[gromit]

Here's another one for you Rod, taken a few minutes ago.
The young one should be flying soon......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/800.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22zaNwd)DSCF7036 (https://flic.kr/p/22zaNwd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[67hardtop]

They are such beautiful birds

[gromit]

Sounded like a small dog barking/whining outside, turned out to be the little Frogmouth.
Saw it take it's first few short flights tonight. From now on it will be a problem finding it because it will move position every night.

Tried to video with the phone but too dark, did record the noise it was making though. Also got a very short video of an adult sitting on a pole in the garden then taking off. Like owls they are silent when flying.

Rod, PM me your mobile number or email address and I'll send the short videos.


Colin

[67hardtop]

Pm sent

[Sideroad]

Hey Gromit,
I am guessing you have a reasonable idea about the C240 by now. How do you go for finding parts? Are these getting hard to find and source these days?
Just asking as I am yet to rego mine and don't yet know how good it is. I'm guessing a few months of daily driving will tell.
I have found a S3 'wreck' with a C240 (no gearbox, but still has clutch) and was wondering if the motor should be bought as a spare. I'm not all that cashed up so I don't want to go for it unless these are getting to be rare.

[gromit]

Hey Gromit,
I am guessing you have a reasonable idea about the C240 by now. How do you go for finding parts? Are these getting hard to find and source these days?
Just asking as I am yet to rego mine and don't yet know how good it is. I'm guessing a few months of daily driving will tell.
I have found a S3 'wreck' with a C240 (no gearbox, but still has clutch) and was wondering if the motor should be bought as a spare. I'm not all that cashed up so I don't want to go for it unless these are getting to be rare.

I haven't had to buy anything for the C240 apart from the flywheel bolts & a bolt for the crank pulley. Managed to get them from an Isuzu dealer but the issue was with them finding a parts manual, with a part number they can help.

I got a spare motor which is a standby for things like alternator, starter motor, injection pump etc. Does the one you've been offered have the conversion plate still attached ? If it's cheap enough I'd get it for spares, I think I paid $60 and got some other parts thrown in the deal.

The same motor is apparently used in forklifts and other industrial applications so getting gaskets etc shouldn't be too hard.


Colin

[Sideroad]

I haven't had to buy anything for the C240 apart from the flywheel bolts & a bolt for the crank pulley. Managed to get them from an Isuzu dealer but the issue was with them finding a parts manual, with a part number they can help.

I got a spare motor which is a standby for things like alternator, starter motor, injection pump etc. Does the one you've been offered have the conversion plate still attached ? If it's cheap enough I'd get it for spares, I think I paid $60 and got some other parts thrown in the deal.

The same motor is apparently used in forklifts and other industrial applications so getting gaskets etc shouldn't be too hard.


ColinI going out later this week to grab it. Owner is letting me take it for $100, which I think is a pretty good deal, but we will see.
I'll let you know how I go.
I have had you flywheel adventure in mind regarding a spare engine. From the pics, this one still has the clutch attached, so im hoping it still has the adapter.

[Sideroad]

Hey gromit,
What manual did you track down for the C240?
I found a short one on Scribd, pic is of the front page. 38pages long.
I seems pretty basic. Shows removal of items, but not much on the repair or break down of them. Eg. fuel pump
Is this as good as I should expect to find?
Did you find a parts manual? Those are usually good for assembly orders.
Cheers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/92.jpg

[Sideroad]

Hey gromit,
What manual did you track down for the C240?
I found a short one on Scribd, pic is of the front page. 38pages long.
I seems pretty basic. Shows removal of items, but not much on the repair or break down of them. Eg. fuel pump
Is this as good as I should expect to find?
Did you find a parts manual? Those are usually good for assembly orders.
Cheers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/92.jpgSorry, up side down

[gromit]

I found a workshop manual (C240-WE-151). Just not quite sure whether it's for the automotive or stationary version of the motor.
It covers servicing of injector nozzles, injector pump, vacuum pump etc. etc. I'm hoping I don't ever have to use it [bigsmile1]
No luck with a parts manual but Patterson Cheney (local Isuzu agent) managed to find their own very worn copy.

Fuel filter (spin on) is a Z169A Search Part | Ryco Fuel Filter | Z169A Fuel Filter :: Ryco Filters :: Automotive Filters Australia (http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/part/index/part/Z169A)
Oil filter (cartridge) is R2383P Search Part | Ryco Oil Filter | R2383P Oil Filter | ISUZU ELF250 NPR400 :: Ryco Filters :: Automotive Filters Australia (http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/part/index/part/R2383P/make/ISUZU/model/ELF250/series/NPR400)
Both came from SuperCheap as they fit other models as well.

The housing for the oil filter cartridge is 'upside down' which I though would make things messy but there is a drain plug under the housing.

I have a spare glowplug somewhere I'll have to post up the number when I find it again.


Colin

[Sideroad]

Cheers for the info Colin,
I'll note those part numbers and order them. My filters are in need of changing.
I mentioned on my build thread that I found a handwritten date on the fuel filter. 2002! I sure hope that isn't a sign of neglect and is just from lack of use.

[Sideroad]

138315
Here is another manual I've found

[gromit]

The C240 came from an Elf truck like the one below

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/122.jpg

Dellow was bringing the motors in and converting Land Rovers, Commodores for taxi work and maybe others ?????


Colin

[Sideroad]

The C240 came from an Elf truck like the one below

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/122.jpg

Dellow was bringing the motors in and converting Land Rovers, Commodores for taxi work and maybe others ?????


ColinWhat a cute work truck. Doubt there are many of those left.

[rangieman]

The C240 came from an Elf truck like the one below

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/122.jpg

Dellow was bringing the motors in and converting Land Rovers, Commodores for taxi work and maybe others ?????


Colin
Seen van`s similar in Aus that were called Datsun Homer , Don`t know if the Homer had a diesel as i have only ever seen petrol powered ones .

[Sideroad]

Hey Gromit,
I'm re-reading the whole thread, but am only up to the 200th post. you may have covered this in the later posts, but I'm wondering how the C240 low engine revs & torque go with the standard gearbox and diff ratios.
Did you end up running the high ratio box? If so how does the engine go with that ratio?
I have standard 4.7 ratio diffs in mine and stock gearbox but do have 3.54 diffs to swap in if I need to. Though that may be too high a ratio.
What's your opinion of a good combo to suit the C240?
Cheers,
Nathan

[gromit]

I used the high ratio transfer box that came installed but had to carry out some repairs.
An early poster told me it would struggle but far from it......

If you swap diffs the low range ratio is also changed so depends on how you will use it. A high speed transfer hardly affects low range, approx 40:1 ratio in 1st low as standard and 39.5:1 with the high ratio transfer box.

Sits on 100kph effortlessly on the freeway but....in a 60kph limit it doesn't really like 4th gear, prefers to be revving in 3rd.

Accelerates well (for a NA diesel). Having read comments on the Land Rover diesel it seems to out perform it but I don't have any personal experience to make a real comparison. Maybe I'll get one of the young blokes to video & post on YouTube at some point.

Colin

[Sideroad]

I used the high ratio transfer box that came installed but had to carry out some repairs.
An early poster told me it would struggle but far from it......

If you swap diffs the low range ratio is also changed so depends on how you will use it. A high speed transfer hardly affects low range, approx 40:1 ratio in 1st low as standard and 39.5:1 with the high ratio transfer box.

Sits on 100kph effortlessly on the freeway but....in a 60kph limit it doesn't really like 4th gear, prefers to be revving in 3rd.

Accelerates well (for a NA diesel). Having read comments on the Land Rover diesel it seems to out perform it but I don't have any personal experience to make a real comparison. Maybe I'll get one of the young blokes to video & post on YouTube at some point.

Colin

Cheers Colin,
With all the plans I have, looks like a high range conversion is going to be added as well.
I plan on some off-road playing and don't want to lose too much low range. I have run 3.54 diffs before and found them fine in general offroad use, but I plan for steeper hills with this one. :) Hence the Thomas winch that will be going on some time soon-ish.

[gromit]

Seen van`s similar in Aus that were called Datsun Homer , Don`t know if the Homer had a diesel as i have only ever seen petrol powered ones .

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/295.jpg


Prince Homer - Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prince_Homer)

Chris, if you can believe Wikipedia petrol for the Homer.



Colin

[gromit]

As I was doing some painting on another vehicle today I did some more work on the spare bonnet. The existing paint is sound so it was sanded & all the minor imperfections filled.

I usually use etch primer in rattle cans, I intended to etch the bare aluminium and rivet heads but the rattle can decided not to play. I've had a couple where despite lots of shaking initially the nozzle seems to block so I will have to wait for another nice day to etch & then primer filler.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/316.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23bTMK5)DSCN4701 (https://flic.kr/p/23bTMK5) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I think I have enough Spanish Olive to spray the bonnet if not it's becoming an expensive hobby to keep buying acrylic paint (about $250 for 4 litres). The paint I've been using came with Wallit in amongst the spares so it's about 6 years old !



Colin

[gromit]

Wallit's dash is badly cracked so with the wet, dark evenings I decided I should do something about it.

I have a spare dashboard which is as bad, if not worse.....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/344.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27kogSJ)DSCN4806 (https://flic.kr/p/27kogSJ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

So I used a paint scraper to lift off all the old vinyl which was very brittle. I saved the clips that hold the vinyl at the bottom edge as I can't find replacements, well OK I found them in the UK but not locally.
Where the foam underneath has been exposed to the air/sunlight it crumbles and needs to be cut out.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/345.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/262NCba)DSCN4818 (https://flic.kr/p/262NCba) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

So next messy job was to cut it out.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/346.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24DRoHN)DSCN4820 (https://flic.kr/p/24DRoHN) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Then apply some foam sealant (in a can from Bunnings). Make sure you have acetone on hand for the cleanup & wear gloves. I sprayed water on the areas where the foam was being applied then spread the foam with a knife.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/347.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/262NFsR)DSCN4823 (https://flic.kr/p/262NFsR) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

When it's dry carve with a sharp knife & sand.......



Colin

[gromit]

Probably needs a bit more foam filler in a few spots but nearly there.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/356.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KiRUAW)DSCN4826 (https://flic.kr/p/KiRUAW) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

There was some stretchy black vinyl that came with Wallit which I guess was for re-covering the dash. I did visit a trim supplier yesterday and found that stretchy black vinyl is about $60 per mtr, minimum length 1 mtr. This would be enough to recover 3 dashboards.

Tonight I made some timber pieces to clamp in the vent openings & screw holes to hopefully make the vinyl stretch into shape & stick in the recesses. I have some spray contact adhesive from another job so I'll try applying the vinyl and see how it all goes once I'm happy with the surface of the foam.


Colin

[gromit]

Took Wallit to work today through the traffic into Dandenong.
Left a reasonable distance between me and the car in front only to have people fill the gap, started to think I was slowly going backwards.

My Wife's car had a problem (Territory TDV6) so she borrowed my Territory and when I got to work in Wallit I used the work ute for the day. She could have used the Defender but that's been sitting for months waiting for a cambelt to be replaced. I got stuck into the job on Saturday (because the pressure was on) & managed to break my breaker bar trying to undo the crank pulley nut (thanks to Rangieman who came to the rescue).
I was off to Winton (VIC) for the classic event Sunday so didn't get to really test run the Defender. Have now done that tonight so SWMBO is using the Defender tomorrow and hopefully the Ford dealer manages to sort the problem on her car.

It was fun going through the traffic in Wallit but I did notice when stationary in traffic with a truck or big 4WD beside me the noise from the Isuzu was quite loud. Once you get moving the diff whine drowns it out .....!


Colin

[gromit]

Had a problem covering the dashboard.
The stretchy vinyl came with Wallit so I thought I'd use it. Problem is as you glued & stretched it into place the vinyl came away from the fabric backing ! So I had to pull it off and start again which included damaging the foam so more filling.......

I'm going to try next time with standard automotive cloth backed PVC and hope it has enough stretch to fit into place without creasing. There must be a knack to re-covering the dash and I'll get there eventually.

I cut the PVC ready to try again and realised I had some offcuts left over and decided to make some covers for the tailgate chains.
I found when researching some time back that they were often in two pieces rather than one. Maybe so that they were open at the bottom of the loop when the tailgate is up this stopping water gathering inside ?
I also found that some have the seam on the outside others are on the inside. Inside is a bit harder as you have to sew inside out and then turn the finished covers back the right way.

Dusted off the 1922 vintage sewing machine (must stop using the table as a shelf).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/129.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/26Eg7Ai)DSCN4830 (https://flic.kr/p/26Eg7Ai) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Using a piece of dowel I managed to turn the PVC tube back the right way round and inserted a length of string to pull the chain through.

Removed the bicycle inner tube that had been fitted by the PO and fitted the PVC covers.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/130.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KTQ6BU)DSCN4831 (https://flic.kr/p/KTQ6BU) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Back to the dashboard when I have time........


Colin

[gromit]

Just looked and it's been 6 years since I got Wallit !

Still jobs to do but the whole refurb was done on a budget and lots & lots of things have happened along the journey. Retrenched, added few more Land Rovers to the fleet, lots of other projects started, some even finished !


This weekend I was working on a shed build.
My garden shed has power and it's just used to store mowers etc. so I decided to build another shed so that the existing shed can be set up for woodworking.
Looking back there's been a bit of development at the bottom of the garden......

First a shed for the series I
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1775/29123920948_bec8e72aeb_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LnzH35)DSCF3286 (https://flic.kr/p/LnzH35) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1813/42094381505_83f78c2a21_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/278JH5n)DSCF4811 (https://flic.kr/p/278JH5n) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Then a lean-to on the shed.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/42277667464_875e5aaa26_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27pW6B7)DSCF8008 (https://flic.kr/p/27pW6B7) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Then an extension to the lean-to.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1777/42995970081_9b497e152b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28vpzWZ)DSCF8924 (https://flic.kr/p/28vpzWZ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'm going to box in the sides of the lean-to and concrete the floor at some point in the future.

The latest is a welded steel frame structure to hold the mowers and the kids bikes.
Concrete was put down maybe 18months ago and the steel frame erected at least 6 months ago.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1811/42277683304_d65ab8b652_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27pWbjd)DSCN4855 (https://flic.kr/p/27pWbjd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

All the above built on a tight budget as/when time permits.
Once the garden equipment is moved I can shift the Triton sawbench & router bench into the powered shed (which already contains a wood turning lathe) making room in the garage so that I can physically get to the lathe & mill.

Along the way a couple of these have been made.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/888/42996420081_032aa2f888_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28vrTHB)IMG_0753 (https://flic.kr/p/28vrTHB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I've also made a foot operated wood lathe, sometimes known as a pole lathe. I must get round to actually trying to use it this summer.

No wonder the Land Rovers take so long to get sorted out..........




Colin

[grey_ghost]

Hey Colin, seeing as it’s my Birthday and all - I would be happy to take one for the team and take one of the Landy’s off your hands. Just think - it would free up your shed room and keep SWMBO happy. I know - what a guy! [emoji1303][emoji3]

[bemm52]

Colin I'm intrigued by your comment "refurb was finished on budget" I wouldn't know where to start trying to budget realistically a series refurb.
My next two projects are still getting pulled apart to determine what I have to start with........however the financial controller has her eagle eye on proceedings after my last freshen up
last night I was presented with an exercise book to record all expenditures[bigsad]

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Colin I'm intrigued by your comment "refurb was finished on budget" I wouldn't know where to start trying to budget realistically a series refurb.
My next two projects are still getting pulled apart to determine what I have to start with........however the financial controller has her eagle eye on proceedings after my last freshen up
last night I was presented with an exercise book to record all expenditures[bigsad]

Cheers PaulJust coz u got the excersize book dont mean u have to use it...lol

[gromit]

Hey Colin, seeing as it’s my Birthday and all - I would be happy to take one for the team and take one of the Landy’s off your hands. Just think - it would free up your shed room and keep SWMBO happy. I know - what a guy! [emoji1303][emoji3]

I think you have enough Land Rovers at the moment Tom. Sorry, what am I thinking, it's not possible to have 'enough'.

Parkinson's Law states that "work expands to fill the time available for it's completion" Parkinson's law - Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkinson%27s_law)
Colin's Law states that "Land Rover collections expand to fill the land available" with the addition that "you can store Land Rovers at other locations if you run out of land".


Colin I'm intrigued by your comment "refurb was finished on budget" I wouldn't know where to start trying to budget realistically a series refurb.


Paul,
Wallit came with $1,500 of new parts/paint etc. and I only paid $1,500.
Secondhand tyres were fitted.
Rebuilt the gearbox & transfer box myself.
The only work carried out by someone else was the machining of a replacement flywheel (done at work) and re-furbishing the brake booster.
I waited until I had some spare cash (moved on to another project while waiting).
Parts sourced outside the Land Rover supplier network if possible. Brake shoes at trade price, rubbers/seals at bulk prices (selling on the excess), globes from a trade supplier of Narva products etc.etc.

6 years down the track and I still have things to do but the vehicle is on the road & being used.

I do it because I enjoy working on the vehicles and the challenges presented. A far cheaper option would be to buy a Land Rover someone else has 'restored' because there are a lot of hidden costs, problem is I prefer an original, unmodified vehicle to start with.
As a hobby it probably costs less than smoking.......
If you played golf you'd have club fees, equipment to pay for and need a regular supply of funny trousers. At the end of it you have equipment that's out-of-date and a wardrobe full of trousers you can't wear in public.

As to a budget for a Series refurb....always much more than you think and more than you might get back if you sell the vehicle on.


Colin

[mick88]

Well Colin,
one thing is for sure, you won't die from boredom.
It's good to see a bloke who likes to keep himself occupied.

Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Managed to get the dashboard re-covered over the weekend.
This is the spare one, I'll fit it and then re-cover the one currently fitted in Wallit. Not a perfect job but much better than the split one it's going to replace.

I made some timber pieces to help stretch & hold the vinyl in place.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1763/42220048105_8b28dfc94d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27jQMnT)DSCN4856 (https://flic.kr/p/27jQMnT) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/918/29252386618_e3a12527dc_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LyW8pq)DSCN4857 (https://flic.kr/p/LyW8pq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Still looking for a replacement roof for Wallit.
A few rivets have sheared off due to the vibration of the Isuzu so i need to either find a replacement roof and take it apart & re-rivet the roof back to the drip rail or if I'm lucky........ find a good one. Wallit's has some damage to the ribs along the top so I'll keep looking for a better one.



Colin

[gromit]

Took Wallit for a few outings today.
Trash & Treasure Market first thing, then to Jollys (wreckers) to get parts for the young blokes Subaru then to look at a Series III Station Wagon.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1883/44224545472_b5fdd6748f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2anYmBj)IMG_1791 (https://flic.kr/p/2anYmBj) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Running well but the diff whine seems to be getting worse so I need to track down another soon.

Colin

[mick88]

Collin would 3.54 Diffs be a better option for Wallit?
Would it handle the higher gearing easily enough on the highway?
I imagine with that big flywheel, take-off wouldn't be an issue.

Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Collin would 3.54 Diffs be a better option for Wallit?
Would it handle the higher gearing easily enough on the highway?
I imagine with that big flywheel take wouldn't be an issue.

Cheers, Mick.

Mick,
Wallit has a high ratio transfer box, keeps up with the traffic on the freeway at just over 100Kph. At around 60Kph in 4th it doesn't like it so I have to drop down to 3rd.
I actually have a good 3.54 which came with it.

Someone I know has the remains of a couple of Land Rovers on their property and I have to head up and strip out a diff or 2. Problem is I removed one a while back and it was badly worn. Another front diff from a vehicle fitted with freewheel hubs was perfect, that went into my IIa GS.



Colin

[mick88]

Thanks Colin,
I didn't realise it already has a modified transfer case.

Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Another cold & wet weekend so little done on Land Rovers.

Found the Tawney Frogmouths are back, the nest is high up so difficult to get a photo, it's mate was lower down.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1867/43701059204_2b84c0f7bb_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/29zHmo1)DSCF7677 (https://flic.kr/p/29zHmo1) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Finished this off :-

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1872/30550201158_8c094e1b5a_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NxBLsb)DSCF7679 (https://flic.kr/p/NxBLsb) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The wheel came from the father-in-laws property in Gaffneys Creek and was one of the few things that survived the fires. The wheel looked odd on it's own so I made the barrow.



Colin

[67hardtop]

Thanks for the birdy pic Colin

[gromit]

Found time to replace the dashboard today.

Old dash coming out.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1844/29625570017_fd8e62e255_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/M8UMPX)DSCN4913 (https://flic.kr/p/M8UMPX) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Dash top removed.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1874/30693209918_189630805f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NLfHYs)DSCN4914 (https://flic.kr/p/NLfHYs) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Need to replace the heater controls. One cable removed the other broken.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1844/44563751061_311b3e28dc_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2aTWSBx)DSCN4916 (https://flic.kr/p/2aTWSBx) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Refurbished dash looks better, not perfect but better.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1855/44563742141_b2f9a4e76c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2aTWPXK)DSCN4919 (https://flic.kr/p/2aTWPXK) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


The vents stick up a bit because both are broken, something else I need to look out for......




Colin

[gromit]

Took Wallit for a drive to Gembrook at the weekend towing a trailer. Earning it's keep collecting Land Rover spares.....

Pulled well but on a few of the hills the speed dropped off, didn't have to drop into 2nd but 3rd was used a fair bit.
As I arrived at the property I found that they knew I was nearby because they had heard Wallit coming from a Km or so away ! You can hold a conversation OK inside because the PO had installed some crude sound deadening but outside it is quite noisy.

Removed a steering box from a vehicle that had sat outside with no roof for many years, turned out to be good enough to donate parts to another steering box I'm rebuilding. Still had oil inside & no water had made it's way in, just one of the two bearing cups was pitted.

When I got back home I noticed some oil spots on the front of the trailer. The Isuzu motor has a huge breather that just dumps oily air, might need a catch can or some other way of catching any oil drops. I'll also investigate the gearbox to check whether the level is dropping, there is always a drip or two underneath but doesn't appear to be anything serious.

Transfer box jumped into neutral once coming down a hill, hasn't done this for a while so I'll have to check adjustments again. Had a car following but fortunately there was a turning I could pull into to come to a stop so I could re-engage.

There's always something to do on a Land Rover......


Colin

[gromit]

Picked up one bearing cup for the steering box today so I can rebuild it at my leisure. Four Wheel Drives had them in-stock and were happy to sell just one cup.

Also arranged to pick up a NOS 6-cylinder water pump next week for $200 from another contact. It's a County brand who, from memory, were around before Britpart/Bearmach.

Colin

[gromit]

Thanks for the birdy pic Colin

Another couple for you Rod....

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1933/44785809664_620607350f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2beyYU9)DSCF7775 (https://flic.kr/p/2beyYU9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Two young with a parent.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1932/45460386942_226298e6ce_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2cgbndS)DSCF7799 (https://flic.kr/p/2cgbndS) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[67hardtop]

Love it Colin. Cheers mate

[67hardtop]

Oh no need for 6cyl. Thanks anyway

[gromit]

Nothing to post about Wallit.
Starts & stops OK but I need to get round to painting the spare bonnet and fitting it.
It gets used most weekends to go to the local trash & treasure market.

A few more Tawny Frogmouth pics.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4915/30768345267_8b65d08821_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NSTP6v)DSCF7829 (https://flic.kr/p/NSTP6v) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1956/44984051084_9b9273782a_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2bx62aE)DSCF7830 (https://flic.kr/p/2bx62aE) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1939/44984045954_d37442e19e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2bx5ZDd)DSCF7832 (https://flic.kr/p/2bx5ZDd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to 'service' Wallit this morning ready for a trip to Rob Roy Hillclimb tomorrow.

All levels OK then noticed some oil round the passenger side rear hub. On sudden braking it does have a tendency to pull to one side but then it's normally OK.

Pulled the drum off and yes, oil leaking from the back of the hub. Brake shoes were contaminated with oil so everything had to come apart. The seal looked OK but the collar it seals against had a shiny groove in it ?
Decided to change the collar in-situ.

Dremel to cut a groove in the old one to try and then split it with a chisel, no joy the collar seemed soft. Eventually it worked loose and came off.
Managed to drift a new one in place and then re-assemble with a new seal in the hub.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4805/45915991001_96d29717c6_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2cXrsrg)DSCN4980 (https://flic.kr/p/2cXrsrg) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Trial run early tomorrow then off to Rob Roy.


Colin

[gromit]

Wallit sits outside as I've run out of undercover storage.
Went for a run to the local Trash & Treasure market on Sunday, a few spots of rain so operated the wipers which just smeared dust all over the windscreens. No Problem, use the washers......one of the two jets was blocked and at speed the spray from the other one went everywhere except on the windscreen !
Another job, a small one but needs to be looked at soon.

Still starts, runs & performs well.
Need to get a replacement roof (Chris !) and I have a bonnet prepared but no time to spray it at the moment.
Also want to add a cigarette lighter socket on the dash & in the rear for accessories/charging etc.


Colin

[gromit]

Used Wallit clearing up branches the neighbour chopped off my trees.

Reversing a trailer without power steering is a struggle so I cleared a few things away so that there is a circuit. Drive up one way and load up the trailer then drive out round to the driveway where the branches are being stacked ready to get someone in to mulch it.

The kids helped, mainly because they got a ride in the trailer.......


Colin

[gromit]

More service work over the weekend.

Coolant and oil changed, due to the low kms I didn't change the oil filter this time but will next time.
Flushed the brake & clutch fluid. Noticed again that the clutch reservoir had a jelly like substance in it. I think its the brake fluid breaking down but not sure why. The outside of the master cylinder seems to corrode easily, maybe it's because it's parked outside without any cover ? No such problem with the brake reservoir.

Also flushed the brake & clutch fluid in the Defender, seemed to spend a lot of yesterday laying on the driveway while one of my boys pumped pedals.


Colin

[gromit]

New N70ZZ battery fitted at the weekend.
So far Wallit has had a succession of secondhand batteries, last one was a couple of years ago when I replaced the Defender battery.
Time for an upgrade...
The Series I also needs a battery, the one on it was purchased just after Cooma.....2008 !

One thing I forgot to mention about the brake bleeding recently....both rear brake nipples were blocked with 'mud'. No covers on them but seemed odd, spoke with the father-in-law and he suggested a mud wasp !
Not far from where Wallit is parked I had a similar problem with my Mig welder a few years ago. Couldn't get gas to come through and found the end of the pipe blocked off with mud (the bottle is always disconnected when not in use).


Colin

[Don 130]

New N70ZZ battery fitted at the weekend.
So far Wallit has had a succession of secondhand batteries, last one was a couple of years ago when I replaced the Defender battery.
Time for an upgrade...
The Series I also needs a battery, the one on it was purchased just after Cooma.....2008 !

One thing I forgot to mention about the brake bleeding recently....both rear brake nipples were blocked with 'mud'. No covers on them but seemed odd, spoke with the father-in-law and he suggested a mud wasp !
Not far from where Wallit is parked I had a similar problem with my Mig welder a few years ago. Couldn't get gas to come through and found the end of the pipe blocked off with mud (the bottle is always disconnected when not in use).


Colin

A little bit of rolled up tissue or rag in all disconnected small pipes and also the exhausts of small engines
Don.

[workingonit]

New N70ZZ battery fitted at the weekend.
...brake nipples were blocked with 'mud'...mud wasp...Mig welder a few years ago. Couldn't get gas to come through and found the end of the pipe blocked off with mud (the bottle is always disconnected when not in use).Colin

So it's not just me then...

Brake nipples, constant problem. Tried to find after market rubber covers but no luck.

Blocked before I got to set up my argon system. When first purchased the welder argon solenoid had half metre pieces of pipe either side yet to be attached to the bottle and the feed mechanism. The wasps did not block the pipes, preferring to crawl the full distance up each pipe to the solenoid and block it both sides.

Brush cutter exhaust blocked...lot's of wasted effort (or wasp effort) to get it going until I woke up to the fact.

Got to admire them for their determination. If only they and termites could be trained to build us houses.

[Dgd69]

New N70ZZ battery fitted at the weekend.
So far Wallit has had a succession of secondhand batteries, last one was a couple of years ago when I replaced the Defender battery.
Time for an upgrade...
The Series I also needs a battery, the one on it was purchased just after Cooma.....2008 !

One thing I forgot to mention about the brake bleeding recently....both rear brake nipples were blocked with 'mud'. No covers on them but seemed odd, spoke with the father-in-law and he suggested a mud wasp !
Not far from where Wallit is parked I had a similar problem with my Mig welder a few years ago. Couldn't get gas to come through and found the end of the pipe blocked off with mud (the bottle is always disconnected when not in use).


Colin

You can buy aftermarket bleed nipple covers Brembo Bleed Nipple Covers (pack of 8) | eBay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0'mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2 F323191814824)

[67hardtop]

Just go to a bloody brake place and ask them for some. They will have heaps lying around

[gromit]

You can buy aftermarket bleed nipple covers Brembo Bleed Nipple Covers (pack of 8) | eBay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0'mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2 F323191814824)

Thanks, ordered a pack of 30 a couple of weeks ago and they have just arrived


Just go to a bloody brake place and ask them for some. They will have heaps lying around

Most of the oldtime local brake places have shut, the Ebay ones cost a few dollars.


Colin

[67hardtop]

Thanks, ordered a pack of 30 a couple of weeks ago and they have just arrived



Most of the oldtime local brake places have shut, the Ebay ones cost a few dollars.


ColinWhat i did Colin was used the plugs that came with new wheel cyls and turned them around and pushed them on the bleed nipples. Cheers Rod

[gromit]

What i did Colin was used the plugs that came with new wheel cyls and turned them around and pushed them on the bleed nipples. Cheers Rod

Rod,
Some kits actually come with nipple covers but for some reason not all kits.

Colin

[workingonit]

...used the plugs that came with new wheel cyls... Rod


You can buy aftermarket bleed nipple covers Brembo Bleed Nipple Covers (pack of 8) | eBay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0'mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2 F323191814824)


...brake nipples were blocked with 'mud'. No covers

Rang Aust Brake Services (ABS in phone book) response with humour "aw, lots of 'em, two bl**dy dollars or less" obviously not worth looking up the list price. Anyway, 75 cents each when I got there.

[gromit]

Yesterday I did one of those jobs I've been meaning to get round to for ages.

Water leaks in over the drivers doortop and there is wind noise as you get above 80kph. I took the doortop off and bent the studs so that the top of the window frame is pushed hard into the door seals. While I was looking around Wallit I decide it was time to change the wiper blades, thankfully blades are cheap via Ebay so I did the Defender while I was on a roll....

Test drive to the Trash & Treasure market this morning and no wind noise, I'll have to wait for rain to see if it's stopped the leak
As a bonus I picked up a Workshop manual for the Isuzu motor at the market for $5 !


Colin

[mick88]

Colin have you done any long trips in Wallet?
If so how was it?
How did the motor perform on hills etc., and is the diesel engine noise annoying?

Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Colin have you done any long trips in Wallet?
If so how was it?
How did the motor perform on hills etc., and is the diesel engine noise annoying?

Cheers, Mick.

Mick,

No really long trips, mostly10-20km.
The engine performs OK for a NA diesel. It does slow on hills a bit especially when it's still cold.
It needs glowing for 10seconds or more on a cold morning and even on a warm day it struggles to start from 'cold' without using the glowplugs.

The previous owner installed some home made sound deadening, foam matting, then industrial carpet and heavy rubber matting on the floor.
Can easily hold a conversation with a passenger, the diff whine is probably louder than the engine (another job I need to get round to......).


Colin

[gromit]

It rained quite heavily today and the drivers side floor was dry for a change !

Wallit sits outside (all the sheds are full) so I'm trying to keep the water out, and on a fine day remember to open the doors to let it dry out......

Next problem is the roof. I've mentioned before that vibrations from the Isuzu have loosened some of the rivets holding the roof panel to the gutter. I've been on the lookout for a replacement roof but no luck so far.
The roof has some damage otherwise I'd consider pulling it apart and re-riveting although the cost of a rivet squeezer would eat into the budget.


Colin

[gromit]

Wallit is staying a lot drier, I should have got round to tweaking the door top years ago !!

The Tawny Frogmouths are back, I noticed them nesting a month or so back.
Just over a week ago I found a youngster (eyes still closed) that had fallen out of the nest and was being attacked by another bird, unfortunately it died. Yesterday another had fallen out but a bit older now and covered with fluffy feathers, problem is cats wander through our garden and there have been a few foxes.
If you've ever seen a Tawny Frogmouth nest you'll understand why they fall out, it's no more that a handfull of sticks, interestingly they must have had 3 chicks whereas 2 is normal.

Anyway, out with a ladder and I managed to climb up and place it back in the tree where the parents and it's sibling roost. Nowhere near as high as they were but close enough for them to see it.
Today one of the parents was with it so it should survive.


Colin

[gromit]

Took Wallit to the Historic Commercial Vehicle rally at Yarra Glen today.

I was taking the Series I but the weather didn't look great so as Wallit stands out in the rain I thought a decent run will dry it out.
Poor attendance at the rally, plenty of large trucks, coaches etc. but not so many vans, small trucks etc. The number of visitors was down this year as well. Some light drizzle during the morning but then it fined up.

I did find a Series I LWB ute and a Series II single cab there.
Chatted to a few people who were interested in the Isuzu motor and met a couple of people I know. A local chap is looking up a Land Rover he knows of to see if it's potentially for sale......as if I need any more.

Waved to a Puma driver on the way home and got a blank look.


Colin

[gromit]

I might finally get round to replacing the bonnet.....
I've had a spare (or two) for some time and managed to get some Spanish Olive paint mixed during the week (I need a cheaper hobby as it cost over $90 for 1 litre of acrylic paint !).
Served by an older gentleman and as soon as I mentioned Spanish Olive he knew the colour and also that it was from Leyland vehicles from the 70's.

A fellow forum member has offered me a roof so there is a chance that Wallit will have a roof without broken rivets, leaks etc. soon. Many years back when I purchased Wallit a litre of white acrylic paint was amongst all the spares, hopefully it's still usable.

Just need to find some time over the Christmas break.....


Colin