Isuzu C240 powered Series 3 [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

gromit

3rd June 2012, 04:07 PM

I collected the Series 3 yesterday.
The gearbox is out because the flywheel had cracked and a new one has to be made to suit. It came with an SG iron casting, just need to work out the dimensions and start machining.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1199.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VPhq1Y)DSCN1195 (https://flic.kr/p/VPhq1Y) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/503.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VPhgL1)DSCN1200 (https://flic.kr/p/VPhgL1) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

It came with loads of spares including a new radiator, new doortops, paint, s/h wing outer panels, gearbox & transfer box, shock absorbers etc. etc.\
I had to make a second trip to collect all the spares.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1200.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W9zVYC)DSCN1214 (https://flic.kr/p/W9zVYC) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1201.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/V8a4hb)DSCN1240 (https://flic.kr/p/V8a4hb) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Once the flywheel is sorted out I can check out the motor. Has slightly less horsepower than the LR 2.25 diesel so it's going to be a slow but economical driver.
The C240 motor seems to have been used in forklifts & stationary marine applications (ideal Land Rover conversion !)

Colin

gromit

4th June 2012, 08:17 AM

The guy who sold me the S3 called it 'Wallet' (Wallit ?)
He couldn't make up his mind whether to call it Wallace or Gromit, plus he claimed he was always spending money on it :)

On a run it was under 9litres per hundred but he did warn me that it was lacking in acceleration.....

A quick look last night didn't throw up too many surprises. The spare wing outer panels have holes drilled round the edge where flares were fitted so I may need replacement wing outers or I'll try panel beating the existing panels. Bulkhead is excellent, chassis is excellent interior is worn but good, dashboard will need recovering at some point.
Drivers seat is a highback but not sure if I'll get a roadworthy with this fitted.

The window boxes (doortops) need to be looked at fairly soon. There is some rust in the door framework that will also have to be fixed.

It has LWB brakes fitted which is a bonus and some serious sound deadening panels in the footwells (maybe the Isuzu is a bit noisy ?). Machining the flywheel is the first issue then I have to rebuild the gearbox. The spare gearbox has high ratio transfer gears, probably not suited to the Isuzu but could be handy if I go 200Tdi in the future.

I just need to work out where this one fits with all the other projects.....

Colin

gromit

4th June 2012, 07:39 PM

Here's a pic of the Isuzu motor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1098.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WkZR2o)DSCN1197 (https://flic.kr/p/WkZR2o) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

6th June 2012, 01:05 PM

Looks like the flywheel will be machined at work one Saturday soon.
I just have to confirm a few dimensions (every night this week it's been raining when I get home). I need to work out exactly where the spigot bush needs to be positioned in the flywheel (yes, I know it goes in the middle !) because the original was too damaged to gain any useful information.
I also have to borrow a big micrometer to get the interference fit right for the ring gear.

I'll then have to get it balanced, anyone know a company in Melbourne, preferably Eastern Suburbs ?

The flywheel only has holes for the Land Rover pressure plate and the adapter looks reasonably well made. Would this have been a kit someone sold years ago to fit the Isuzu into a Land Rover ? If so, does anyone have any ideas who might have made them ?

Colin

Davehoos

6th June 2012, 06:59 PM

I had a rodeo with a C190.bullet proof.bother sold the engine after years of farm work to someone after a generator engine.these over the years had loads of adaptor kits but there was a load of different versions of the C engine including the thermo king versions.

the KBD26 was the vac controledthrottle type inline injector pump.

with the bull roar radiator fan in drove like it had an anchor and when cold it was harder.I found a visco fan for a shuttle van.then drove like it had a supercharger.

from the picture it looks like a 4 blade fan from a TLD or ELF truck.

on the side of the pump was a mixture start control.it had a cable conected to the stop/start cable motor.the idea was at low temperatures the timing/mixture was altered.the lever on the pump fitted into a spring loaded plate that would hold the lever till the cable moved to a run possition.
if it got stuck in the wrong spot it would go like the clappers[for a 1.9 NA diesel] and blow black smoke.

gromit

6th June 2012, 08:40 PM

I was told it's a C240 Elf motor.
Lots to learn about it but first need to get a flywheel so that I can at least start it. It hasn't run for a few years so I'm hoping that it's OK, previous owner thinks its done over 300,000 Kms so fingers crossed.

Colin

gromit

7th June 2012, 01:04 PM

I managed to find & speak to the man that made the conversion today.

It crossed my mind to look for the original supplier and see if they still had spares for the kit.

I emailed Marks 4wd and Dellow Conversions.
I had a call earlier today from Jeff Dellow. Turns out they made the conversions about 30 years ago, they also fitted a lot of the Isuzu C240's into Commodore taxis.
Unfortunately he didn't have any parts left and also doesn't have drawings either, if he had he was more than happy to send them to me. Good old fashioned service......

Colin

ade30946x6

7th June 2012, 07:48 PM

At least that grille is good for a BBQ.

Davehoos

7th June 2012, 08:11 PM

had a VB comodore SLE auto drove into a muffler shop as I was waiting.the owner of the shop called me over to share his entertainment as he explained to the young owner that it was a diesel.

a teenage surfer with victorian number plates was qld bound.
the driver came in because it was there first buisness hour stop of the trip and the car was very noisey.it had no muffler and resonated at higher revs.the factory style round filter was moulded into the radiator shroud.them we looked and complience plates looked as if it may have been fitted from newas engine model number wasnt stamped.

ade30946x6

8th June 2012, 09:52 PM

Motor will be okay off road, but it will struggle on road with series gearing.

gromit

9th June 2012, 08:28 AM

Motor will be okay off road, but it will struggle on road with series gearing.

The previous owner ran it with a high speed transfer box and it was OK on road but slow accelerating. I'll find out when I get it running again.

Colin

ade30946x6

9th June 2012, 05:56 PM

I am pulling my gearbox out tonight to join the long list of those whose high speed transfer box has damaged the main gearbox. Far inferior to running high speed diffs in my experience.

gromit

12th June 2012, 01:14 PM

I spent part of the weekend going through all the boxes of spare parts. Lots of new parts and also lots of s/h parts.
I also took some measurements for the new flywheel. I intend to make it thicker in the centre (where it broke previously) but this may mean sourcing longer bolts to go into the crank. Bolts are M13x1.25 and you can see where the flywheel has come loose and fretted on the plain section under the head. I might try the Isuzu dealer later in the week and see if new ones are available and whether longer ones from another model might be also available.
The car came with 3 clutch sets. One had a broken spring in the friction plate and the pressure plate was badly scored, one had clearly had the throwout bearing fail by the wear marks, one was badly rusted so.....time for a new clutch kit.
Managed to source a S3 kit locally today for $170plus GST.

I need a spigot bush for the flywheel, heli-coil (or similar) for the conversion plate because a few threads are damaged (3/8" UNC) plus a few bolts & bits and pieces.
Once the flywheel is machined I'll fit it and try to start the engine (the conversion plate is resting on the crossmember but I want to ensure it actually works). Then I'll overhaul the gearbox before fitting. Once it's mobile again I can make my mind up where it fits in the scheme of things.

The only other parts I have to locate are wing outer panels, a pair came in the spares but they are drilled for flares. Plus I need some repairable door bottoms, I either need to de-skin the originals and repair or get some bottoms that are repairable. The car came with new doortops, runners etc.

More soon on the flywheel as it takes shape, I'll take photos of the various stages of production.

Colin

isuzurover

12th June 2012, 03:00 PM

gromit

12th June 2012, 08:34 PM

Try and keep the flywheel as heavy as possible to smooth out torque pulses and make life easier on the gearbox. Will also help low-down torque offroad too.

It sounds like the bolts were not tightened properly, rather than the flywheel was weak. I would use the angle-tightening method when you bolt it up.

Measuring the depth of the holes in the crankshaft, the thickness of the flywheel where it bolts to the crankshaft and the bolt length there is a distinct possibility the bolts were bottoming out and not holding the flywheel.

The flywheel that came with the conversion was only 7mm thick where it bolts to the crank, the C223 flywheel that came with it is 10mm thick. We've worked out that we can go to about 15mm thick without the bolt heads interfering with the clutch plate but there will be less thread engagement in the crank (but still over 1.5 times the thread diameter).

The cast iron blank is oversize so easy to increase the mass. But I guess it's a compromise, more mass means a bit slower to increase revs but gives more stored energy once it's up to speed. There is a relived area on the front of the original that we probably won't replicate but otherwise it's all tied down by the dimensions for the ring gear, pressure plate mounting etc.

I'm trying to tie down the last few dimensions at the moment but because I don't want to remove the adapter plate from the motor it's proving difficult. I have to get an accurate measurement of the end of the crank so the register in the flywheel is a light interference fit and I also have to determine the PCD of the bolt holes in the crank.
At the moment the PCD is measuring 60.7 - 60.8mm which is an odd dimension but could well be correct.

Colin

mateusz

12th June 2012, 09:11 PM

hi guys how do i identify isuzu C240. Ive got a isuzu engine in a series landy not sure what model or capacity

cheers matt

gromit

13th June 2012, 07:32 AM

hi guys how do i identify isuzu C240. Ive got a isuzu engine in a series landy not sure what model or capacity

cheers matt

Does it look the same as the pictures earlier in this thread ? If not then it isn't a C240.

I'm new to Isuzu motors, maybe you'd be better posting in the 'Isuzu Landy Enthusiasts section'. If you attach a picture I'm sure you'll get a quick answer.

Colin

isuzurover

13th June 2012, 12:43 PM

Measuring the depth of the holes in the crankshaft, the thickness of the flywheel where it bolts to the crankshaft and the bolt length there is a distinct possibility the bolts were bottoming out and not holding the flywheel.

The flywheel that came with the conversion was only 7mm thick where it bolts to the crank, the C223 flywheel that came with it is 10mm thick. We've worked out that we can go to about 15mm thick without the bolt heads interfering with the clutch plate but there will be less thread engagement in the crank (but still over 1.5 times the thread diameter).

The cast iron blank is oversize so easy to increase the mass. But I guess it's a compromise, more mass means a bit slower to increase revs but gives more stored energy once it's up to speed. There is a relived area on the front of the original that we probably won't replicate but otherwise it's all tied down by the dimensions for the ring gear, pressure plate mounting etc.

I'm trying to tie down the last few dimensions at the moment but because I don't want to remove the adapter plate from the motor it's proving difficult. I have to get an accurate measurement of the end of the crank so the register in the flywheel is a light interference fit and I also have to determine the PCD of the bolt holes in the crank.
At the moment the PCD is measuring 60.7 - 60.8mm which is an odd dimension but could well be correct.

Colin

A 2.25D flywheel is about double the weight of a 2.25P (and much heavier than a 4BD1's !), but still accelerates as quickly as a 2.25P when tuned properly.

gromit

13th June 2012, 01:43 PM

A 2.25D flywheel is about double the weight of a 2.25P (and much heavier than a 4BD1's !), but still accelerates as quickly as a 2.25P when tuned properly.

I can't comment on the above because I have no experience of the LR 2.25 diesel.
Do you have any idea of the flywheel weights from the diesel & petrol, it would be interesting to weigh the old (broken) flywheel from the conversion and compare.

My plan is to match the flywheel from the conversion kit and maybe make it heavier in one area to reduce the amount of machining needed. It worked fine in the vehicle for many years so it can't be too far out. I'm constrained by the dimensions so there's not much else I can do.

Patterson Cheney Isuzu were very helpful today, they found a C240 parts manual and checked the crank bolts ....80 in stock in Australia. Should be able to pick up 6 bolts tomorrow morning at about $8 each.
Collected a spigot bush today and brought in to work a rotary table for drilling the pressure plate bolt & dowel holes and the flywheel bolt holes.
Hopefully tomorrow I can borrow a large micrometer and we are set to go into production.

Very soon the flywheel/clutch assembly will be worth slightly more than I paid for the car !!!

Colin

isuzurover

13th June 2012, 03:11 PM

Do you have any idea of the flywheel weights from the diesel & petrol, it would be interesting to weigh the old (broken) flywheel from the conversion and compare.

4BD1 is 16-17 kg.
2.25D ~30 kg (but I am about to remove it so can measure exactly)
2.25P ~20 kg.

gromit

13th June 2012, 03:34 PM

isuzurover

13th June 2012, 03:43 PM

The flywheel from the conversion kit is just over 10Kg minus the ring gear (just need to go and clean our postal scales....).

This worked OK prior to the centre failing but I will try and increase it a bit.

Colin

I imagine the torque pulses would be hard on the flywheel as well as the gearbox, so the light flywheel may have been a contributing factor.

gromit

13th June 2012, 08:55 PM

Checked some dimensions and offered up the old flywheel.
OD can be increased by 5mm but the ring gear is behind so it only affects roughly half the thickness of the flywheel.
It will still clear the starter by a few mm.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/761.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Viwke8)DSCN1248 (https://flic.kr/p/Viwke8) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The dished centre section will be shallower because the flywheel will be thicker where it bolts to the crankshaft. Plus we will change the shape of the outer edge of the recess because it only needs to clear the pressure plate.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/762.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WtvN6m)DSCN1247 (https://flic.kr/p/WtvN6m) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

There will also be a centre in the flywheel machined to hold the spigot bush.

Colin

gromit

15th June 2012, 06:09 PM

The flywheel is now roughed out but there is a small area of what looks like porosity on one side. Our machinist spotted this and hadn't turned too much off so he made this the rear of the flywheel rather than the clutch side which would have been a major problem.

Picture here shows the blank on the right and the old flywheel & ring gear on the left

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/663.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wx7Uwt)DSCN1252 (https://flic.kr/p/Wx7Uwt) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

This is the rough turned flywheel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/664.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WtvE63)DSCN1258 (https://flic.kr/p/WtvE63) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Final machining tomorrow then have to find someone to balance it next week. I may also have to get the clutch face ground, we'll see how the final finish looks and take advice from the company that balances it.

Colin

isuzurover

15th June 2012, 06:33 PM

4BD1 is 16-17 kg.
2.25D ~30 kg (but I am about to remove it so can measure exactly)
2.25P ~20 kg.

Sorry, my previous numbers were a bit out.

2.25D flywheel (weighed last night after removal) ~18.5 kg.
I suspect a 2.25P then is only ~5 kg less.

Murray has posted previously that his 4BD1T (truck) flywheel was 14.7 kg. Dougal's ~16 kg. My landie 4BD1 was 16.0 kg but that would have been after at least 1 round of machining.

My previous measurements:

I just measured my landie version.
16.0 kg
390 mm across the machined face
390 mm across the ring gear
165 mm across the recess

though mine might weigh a bit less after the grooves have been machine out... :(
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/newreply.php'do=newreply&p=1053126

gromit

16th June 2012, 06:58 AM

Just re-checked flywheel weights.

C240 - Land Rover conversion flywheel 11.4kg with ring gear

C223 flywheel with ring gear 11.3kg

We're about to start finish machining and drilling for the mounting bolts & clutch pressure plate. Once it's finished I'll weigh it c/w the ring gear.

Colin

gromit

17th June 2012, 08:15 PM

Managed to finish the flywheel yesterday, final weight 14.4kg with ring gear. Just have to organise balancing and it's ready to install.
Then I have to rebuild the gearbox....

Holes being drilled.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/588.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VfRspG)DSCN1264 (https://flic.kr/p/VfRspG) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Finished flywheel. Boss in centre is for the spigot bush.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/589.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vix1GB)DSCN1268 (https://flic.kr/p/Vix1GB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

18th June 2012, 01:58 PM

I took the flywheel to Dandy Rebores this morning because they list flywheel balancing.
I went to the counter first to check they could do the job, the guy behind the counter gave me that "oh no not another home made flywheel" look. I got it from the car and he ran his hand over the pressure plate side and commented on how well it was made.
Should be done on Wednesday, cost about $110 plus GST.

I've passed back the comments to our machinist......

Still waiting for flywheel bolts. Patterson Cheney Isuzu ordered them in, they were wrong. Then they looked in a C240 Industrial manual and found a different part number, ordered that in and it's the right one but they only have 5, waiting for the last one to come in.

I have to heli-coil a couple of bolt holes in the conversion plate plus one of the starter motor bolt holes is stripped. I should be able to fit it all back together either this weekend or next.

Colin

DRanged

18th June 2012, 09:05 PM

gromit

19th June 2012, 06:52 AM

Hey mate will this help?????

Isuzu C240 Motor Diesel Land Rover Gearbox non turbo engine | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Isuzu-C240-Motor-Diesel-Land-Rover-Gearbox-non-turbo-engine-/280903344744?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416724e268)

Justin

Justin,

Many thanks for finding that.

Now I have the flywheel made I should be able to get mine going, fortunately the cast iron blank was supplied with the vehicle otherwise the motor on ebay would have been a cheaper option !

Colin

gromit

20th June 2012, 07:38 AM

The flywheel should be back from balancing tomorrow, collected the crank bolts yesterday from Patterson Cheney.
I had a good look at the conversion plate last night and it looks like I'll have to remove it this weekend to heli-coil the stripped threads. There is also a large opening at the lower edge of the front of the conversion plate (doesn't seal against the engine). There are tapped holes on the conversion plate so I'm guessing a plate originally fitted there to seal it off, otherwise a water crossing would quickly fill the bellhousing. I'll get some 3mm aluminium today to make a plate and silicon/bolt it in place when re-installing the conversion plate. There is already a small drain hole in the bottom of the conversion plate.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/503.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VPhgL1)DSCN1200 (https://flic.kr/p/VPhgL1) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Then I need to order an overhaul kit for the gearbox, any clues to a good supplier in the UK.

Colin

gromit

22nd June 2012, 02:52 PM

I just collected the flywheel after balancing so hopefully between rain showers at the weekend I can get the starter motor off, remove the conversion plate and sort out the stripped threads.
If I can get the flywheel fitted I'll be starting her up to check she runs OK.

Colin

gromit

23rd June 2012, 11:03 AM

I've removed the conversion plate and also fitted the ring gear today. I need to source a heli-coil for the starter bolt because it's a different size to the bell housing bolts. I didn't manage to source any aluminium to blank off the lower part of the conversion plate during the week so I'll get this done during next week.

Picture below of the ring gear about to cook on the BBQ (SWMBO complains when they're done in the oven !). Managed to get the temperature up to 180C for about 10mins and the ring gear 'fell' onto the flywheel with a satisfying 'clang'.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/294.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wx8wRn)DSCN1279 (https://flic.kr/p/Wx8wRn) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Pressure plate side, you can see the balancing holes on the lower RHS. They tie up exactly opposite the porus patch on the other side of the flywheel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/295.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wx8vAB)DSCN1282 (https://flic.kr/p/Wx8vAB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

27th June 2012, 10:55 AM

I've now made up a blanking plate for the lower half of the conversion plate and re-coiled the damaged threads (7 in total).
The conversion plate is back in so that the engine can rest on the crossmember again (has been supported by an axle stand for most of the week.
The starter motor is bolted back in, this was supported on a length of rope while the conversion plate was removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/118.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VfRNss)DSCN1289 (https://flic.kr/p/VfRNss) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Last night I turned up the 3 dowels for the clutch pressure plate, when the holes were drilled in the flywheel they ended up slightly oversize so I had to make stepped dowels. Pressed them into place and the pressure plate drops on perfectly.
Next I'll turn up a clutch alignment tool and then I need something to bolt onto the flywheel that will rest against the chassis so that I can torque the flywheel bolts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/119.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WrWCh9)DSCN1291 (https://flic.kr/p/WrWCh9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

chazza

27th June 2012, 06:50 PM

Lovely bit of work Colin!

Right up my street as well - making things :D

Cheers Charlie

gromit

28th June 2012, 01:17 PM

Lovely bit of work Colin!

Right up my street as well - making things :D

Cheers Charlie

Charlie,

That's why I have so many 'projects', problem is when it gets to the straightforward stuff I loose interest and look for a new project.

I made a traditional wooden rocking horse for one of my daughters, lost interest part way through and started another (I like the cutting & carving of the timber), lost interest and have a third underway. I did go back to the first at Christmas and finished the leatherwork so she could ride it but there are two more to finish.

Just got the steel cut for my forge (I already have an anvil).

Then there are the 6 Land Rovers.....

Work is starting to interfere with all the projects.

Colin

gromit

1st July 2012, 06:24 PM

Managed to get the flywheel & clutch fitted this weekend (between the rain showers).

Sealed up the blanking plate to stop water ingress.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1319.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ViwMVe)DSCN1292 (https://flic.kr/p/ViwMVe) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Mounted the flywheel and bolted up. I made a brace to bolt onto the flywheel so that I could torque the bolts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1320.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ViwH7g)DSCN1294 (https://flic.kr/p/ViwH7g) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Fitted the clutch plate after turning up an alignment tool.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1321.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VfS3m9)DSCN1298 (https://flic.kr/p/VfS3m9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I replaced the fuel filter, bled the injector system, checked the oil (needs replacing) and then found I'd lost the keys. After turning my office upside down, going though all the boxes that came with the vehicle, trying all the keys that I could find they eventually turned up.
Then moved a battery from another vehicle but found it very slow to turn the Isuzu over. Put it on charge for a few hours and tried again, 10 seconds of glowplugs and she fired up, produced lots of black smoke then stopped. I managed to get it started a few times but each time it stopped after a few seconds so I'll have to look at the fuel supply.
I didn't check the sedimenter and maybe I'll bleed the system again.

Colin

wrinklearthur

1st July 2012, 07:20 PM

Managed to get the flywheel & clutch fitted this weekend (between the rain showers). Then moved a battery from another vehicle but found it very slow to turn the Isuzu over.

This is about where I rang you. :D

Put it on charge for a few hours and tried again, 10 seconds of glowplugs and she fired up, produced lots of black smoke then stopped. I managed to get it started a few times but each time it stopped after a few seconds so I'll have to look at the fuel supply.
I didn't check the sedimenter and maybe I'll bleed the system again. Colin

Lots of black smoke = overfuelling for startup.
I have passed the info onto Graham about those pieces you wanting to have folded up.

Alex and myself unloaded a 200TDi engine, gearbox and transferbox today.
The loose plan at this stage is to build them into a 2A shorty, now where to find a chassis? Oh yeah that right :D.
.

gromit

2nd July 2012, 05:24 PM

Just had a quick try to re-start it . It turned over OK but wouldn't fire but I did get the distinct smell of plastic insulation melting.
I remembered the PO had mentioned that there was a new glow plug resistor in amongst the spares supplied with the car. Had a look at the resistor fitted and it had a link wire across the 2 terminals, this wire had melted insulation !

Once I'd removed it I found the resistor had failed and as a temporary measure the link wire had been fitted.
Rather than going through all the spares I found one off a diesel I'd parted out a while ago, fitted that and put the battery back on charge.

I'll try again tomorrow....

Colin

gromit

6th July 2012, 05:47 PM

Finally after a few wet evenings I got home a bit early tonight and decided to try again. Phoned the PO on the way home to see if he had any clues.

Turns out the shut off knob when pushed overfuels the motor so with that in mind I bled the system again, installed the freshly charged battery (which had seen about 3 years use on the wife's Territory) and tried to start it.

No smell of burning insulation now but it turned over very slowly, could be the battery but decided to check the leads to the starter motor and found a bad contact from the solenoid to the starter. Fixed that, gave it 10 seconds of glowplugs, pushed in the shut-off knob turned it over (much faster now) and it burst into life and the wifes car beside it disappeared in the biggest cloud of black smoke I've seen from a diesel.....
Kept it overfueled for a few seconds released the knob, the smoke cleared, and it settled down to tickover.
Quickly topped up the water and left Wallit running for a while. Noticed the alternator light stayed on but that may be down to another bad connection.

Phoned up the PO who was absolutely chuffed to bits that it was running again because he'd given up after trying to get a new flywheel made and it stood idle for 3 years.

Coolant flush, oil & filter change and trace the charging problems tomorrow....

Colin

gromit

7th July 2012, 04:57 PM

Charging problems turned out to be a dodgy contact in the ignition switch, wriggle the key a bit and it comes good.
Starts very easily now. Cold give it about 10s of glowplugs then push the shut-off knob and it fires up very quickly (with a lot of smoke), warm it starts without glowplugs or overfueling.

Changed the oil and filter.
The filter on the C240 is a cartridge type but upside down so you have to remove a drain plug on the underside to empty the housing then remove the housing & filter from above. Element was readily available because it also fits an early Rodeo.

I've left the coolant for the time being, once I get the gearbox back on and it moves under it's own power I'll change a few hoses and replace the coolant then.

Replaced a couple of globes, all the lights work now. I just need to track down why the horn doesn't work.

Colin

gromit

8th July 2012, 05:20 PM

Decided to take the doors off for repair today.
The passenger side door top is rotten and the PO had removed the glass and taped a sheet of platic over it to try & keep the weather out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1101.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WQLsnn)DSCN1303 (https://flic.kr/p/WQLsnn) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The plastic had kept the water in and helped it rot faster.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1102.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WMzGMA)DSCN1306 (https://flic.kr/p/WMzGMA) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I was trying to do the job single handed so this adjustable stand came in handy.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1103.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VLdjUq)DSCN1308 (https://flic.kr/p/VLdjUq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Replacement door fitted (complete with Leyland badge). The door lock is broken and there is a tear in the skin but it will keep the weather out for the time being.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1104.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VLdpcd)DSCN1312 (https://flic.kr/p/VLdpcd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Need to work on the other side looking at the growth in the runners.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1105.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WYUYz7)DSCN1313 (https://flic.kr/p/WYUYz7) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Next I started on the gearbox and drained a few lumps out that shouldn't be in the oil. More on that later......

Colin

gromit

9th July 2012, 05:39 PM

The items in the picture below came out with the gearbox oil (not the keys !)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1058.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VLdN4W)DSCN1326 (https://flic.kr/p/VLdN4W) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Fortunately I'm still in contact with the PO and it turns out that they fell in while he was removing the gearlever :)

He did also get bits of synchro spring come out with the oil so the box is getting stripped down anyway.

Colin

gromit

15th July 2012, 07:34 PM

Cleaned the gearbox up ready for stripping down.
Broken synchro spring is a known problem but I'll check everything out while It's on the workshop floor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/793.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WxanKH)DSCN1346 (https://flic.kr/p/WxanKH) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

16th July 2012, 08:42 PM

Had an hour or so tonight to work on the gearbox.
I've scanned the pages out of the Haynes manual and laminated them (a bit anal but I'm sure they'll come in handy).

The top gearbox cover came off first. Then I stripped off the handbrake drum, backplate etc. To undo the output flange nut I removed the interlocking plungers so I could select a forward gear at the same time as reverse to lock the gearbox. The last person to work on the box must have been worried about this nut coming undone because I had to use the longest breaker bar I could find.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/767.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VfTnWQ)DSCN1351 (https://flic.kr/p/VfTnWQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/768.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VWPfFw)DSCN1349 (https://flic.kr/p/VWPfFw) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The nut holding the mainshaft gear for the transfer box has been removed & refitted using a cold chisel. The Haynes manual shows an 'alloy drift' being used. I might have to make up a tool to do the job properly but I'll have to replace the nut.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/769.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WxabXv)DSCN1350 (https://flic.kr/p/WxabXv) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

wrinklearthur

16th July 2012, 09:04 PM

gromit

17th July 2012, 08:08 AM

Hi Colin

The end of that shaft where it runs in the needle roller in the cover, looks a little less than polished. :(

Fingers crossed, We are going to the accountant tomorrow. Will we have enough of a refund to escape from the convict isle ? --- with a trailer !!!!! :p
.

Arthur,

I'd noticed the grey rather than polished end to the shaft. This isn't going to be used for high Kms and will probably end up on club plates so not worried at this point. It has supposedly been rebuilt but the chisel marks on the nut for the mainshaft gear in the transfer box make me wonder who actually did the job....

I'll make up the spare bed if you're coming over with a trailer....

Colin

gromit

22nd July 2012, 08:03 PM

Progress is slow on the Land Rover(s) at the moment.
Just spent the weekend adding Lilydale Toppings to the driveway to replace what was washed away earlier this year, cutting grass and dozens of other jobs around the house.
I did get Walit started yesterday, easy now I know the procedure. I also started and ran the Series 2 109" to dry it out and throw some oil around the engine.

Managed to find some time tonight to get the cover plate off the transfer box and remove the intermediate gear cluster. Also degreased the parts I've stripped off so far.
Must get round to orderings some spares for the handbrake mechanism. The expander is badly worn and some of the retaining clips were missing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/516.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wxa6jM)DSCN1359 (https://flic.kr/p/Wxa6jM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

isuzurover

22nd July 2012, 11:17 PM

Progress is slow on the Land Rover(s) at the moment.
Just spent the weekend adding Lilydale Toppings to the driveway to replace what was washed away earlier this year, cutting grass and dozens of other jobs around the house.
I did get Walit started yesterday, easy now I know the procedure. I also started and ran the Series 2 109" to dry it out and throw some oil around the engine.

Managed to find some time tonight to get the cover plate off the transfer box and remove the intermediate gear cluster. Also degreased the parts I've stripped off so far.
Must get round to orderings some spares for the handbrake mechanism. The expander is badly worn and some of the retaining clips were missing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/471.jpg

Colin

What are the intermediate bearings like? How about a pic next to a straight edge to see how twisted they are... :D

gromit

23rd July 2012, 02:45 PM

What are the intermediate bearings like? How about a pic next to a straight edge to see how twisted they are... :D

Do you mean the needle roller cages ?
They were a bit 'floppy' but still holding together.....just.
I popped them back inside the intermediate gear cluster and put the shaft back in just in case they fell apart

Colin

gromit

28th July 2012, 08:40 PM

Managed to find time to separate the gearbox & transfer box today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/175.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VfTigC)DSCN1360 (https://flic.kr/p/VfTigC) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The mainshaft gear for the transfer box was badly pitted in places.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/176.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ViydoF)DSCN1363 (https://flic.kr/p/ViydoF) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The gear it mates with was OK so I guess it was not hardened properly, something else to add to the shopping list.

Colin

gromit

30th July 2012, 08:48 PM

Bugger, it's a high speed transfer box so the gear I'm after has 31 teeth instead of the standard 27 teeth.
Not sure how easy that will be to locate......

Colin

chazza

30th July 2012, 08:54 PM

Try Ashcroft in the UK, Colin,

Cheers Charlie

gromit

1st August 2012, 06:58 AM

I was told that Ashcroft wouldn't supply parts but only the full gearset. Emailed them at about 4.35pm yesterday and got a reply at 4.40pm, replacement gear 52GBP plus freight. Slightly better service than the company I've ordered a gearbox overhaul kit from, they don't answer emails or the phone at the moment. Maybe they are all off watching the Olympics ? Colin

isuzurover

1st August 2012, 01:49 PM

Lotz-A-Landies

1st August 2012, 02:17 PM

<snip>...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1834.jpg

...<snip>Hi Colin

Just going through this thread again and noticed your image (above) this is a great view to explain the reinforcing over the reverse idler shaft in the SIII gearboxes.

The image in the forground/right of the picture is the early housing and the box in the background/left of picture is the later housing with the reinforcement.

Thanks!
Diana

gromit

1st August 2012, 02:42 PM

Diana, The one in the background is the one I'm working on with the high speed transfer box (no gearbox number). The one in the foreground is a spare box that might need a new reverse gear, from the PO's description it has a few teeth missing. He thought it might be from a 2A. I've now found a mainshaft gear in Australia for the high speed transfer box so now looking for the next problem..... Colin

wrinklearthur

1st August 2012, 03:00 PM

so now looking for the next problem..... Colin

Here I am.

Option 234 az.
Kick a horse out and bring back the chassis / chassis's on a horse transport truck.

Good work, where did you find the 31 tooth cog?
.

gromit

1st August 2012, 08:05 PM

Here I am.

Option 234 az.
Kick a horse out and bring back the chassis / chassis's on a horse transport truck.

Good work, where did you find the 31 tooth cog?
.

Arthur,
I'm not telling where I'm getting it from until I've got it !

The one fitted is a welded up job, not sure if this was from Ashcroft or MaxiDrive. I'll maybe know when I collect the Ashcroft one....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1829.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VWNQVf)DSCN1369 (https://flic.kr/p/VWNQVf) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Progress is slow as I don't seem to get much spare time at the moment. Next job is to make up a tool to tighten the replacement 'nut' that holds the 31tooth gear in place. The old one had been cold chiseled into place.

Colin

gromit

2nd August 2012, 05:11 PM

The Ashcroft gear is not a cut & shut job so is the one shown in the post above from MaxiDrive or did someone else make them as well ?
Anyway, hope to get some time in the shed tonight and may finish stripping the box.
Bearings so far seem OK, the PO purchased it as 'rebuilt' so once the synchro spring is replaced I might just build it back up again with new seals & gaskets.

Colin

isuzurover

2nd August 2012, 05:33 PM

gromit

2nd August 2012, 08:21 PM

I have never seen a conversion "in the flesh" - so not sure. Barry at HitoughEng. used to be Mal's 2IC so could probably give you all the info you need.

It was more 'out of interest' so I won't waste his time.
I did wonder about the cost of using two gears to make one, not a cheap option but possibly still cheaper than getting a small batch of the 31 tooth gears made.

Stripped the rest of the box tonight, just need to clean up. Bearings were mostly Nachi and 'feel' OK, the seal between the gearbox & transfer box looks tired which probably explains the lack of oil in the gearbox and excess in the transfer box. The housing for the mainshaft bearing was spinning quite feely so that'll get loctited during the rebuild.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1889.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XwkVyq)DSCN1388 (https://flic.kr/p/XwkVyq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I found one chipped tooth but nothing to worry about.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1890.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wty397)DSCN1386 (https://flic.kr/p/Wty397) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

5th August 2012, 08:41 PM

Cleaned up the gearbox casings at the weekend. Fitted new synchro clips, one had broken and the others were worn. Loctited the main bearing into it's housing and the housing into the case. Just need a few replacement springs and I can re-assemble.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1900.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VmQkR6)DSCN1396 (https://flic.kr/p/VmQkR6) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Decided to make a tool for the nut that holds the mainshaft gear for the transfer box in place. I considered a piece of stainless steel, then decided to use a socket but couldn't find a deep socket large enough.
I ended up finding a 3/4" drive 30mm Chinese socket in the Kincrome outlet shop that looked about the right size. When offered up the shaft neatly fitted through the 3/4" drive end so it would do the job.
I turned the end to size and milled it to leave 4 'fingers' to engage in the nut, I was going to mill 8 fingers but I couldn't be bothered setting up the rotary table. Some fine tuning with a file and a couple of flats on the other end to turn it with and it's ready to use....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1901.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WwPZLb)DSCN1393 (https://flic.kr/p/WwPZLb) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

dolphint

9th August 2012, 12:42 AM

Wow Colin, this is quickly becoming my favorite thread:)

gromit

9th August 2012, 06:29 AM

Thanks Steve,

It's just very slow at the moment because of work and family commitments. I'm waiting on parts arriving from the UK, have to fix the wife's Territory (castor ball joints & front diff bushes), finish building the shed..........

Colin

isuzurover

9th August 2012, 11:56 AM

Wow Colin, this is quickly becoming my favorite thread:)

Indeed. I think gromit, Psimpson7 and ridjidij all win the award for neatness, cleanliness and attention to detail in their repair/fab work...

gromit

12th August 2012, 03:56 PM

Found some time between delivering kids to Scouts, fixing the Territory suspension and other chores around the house.

Took the output shaft housing off the transfer box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1896.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VmQ2uM)DSCN1410 (https://flic.kr/p/VmQ2uM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I should have undone the nut holding the output flange in place while it was all bolted together. Instead I made a holding tool which will come in handy in the future.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1897.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WoGDXv)DSCN1406 (https://flic.kr/p/WoGDXv) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Took out the contents, hopefully I can work out how it all goes back together.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1898.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W15JQE)DSCN1408 (https://flic.kr/p/W15JQE) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The bearing in the output shaft housing had rusted at some point and felt a bit rough so I'll get a replacement. Some of the internals had also rusted at some point but they'll clean up.
You can see in the picture below where the transfer box has been modified to re-position the intermediate shaft.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1899.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VmQ5in)DSCN1409 (https://flic.kr/p/VmQ5in) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

13th August 2012, 02:37 PM

The output shaft bearing turned out to be a no-name, cannot even find a number etched onto it. The problem with it is due to rust rather than wear. It's an RLS 10 (2 3/4" OD 1 1/4" ID 11/16" thick) available from most decent bearing outlets, I picked up an NSK one this morning. Looking at the dimensions of the inner & outer races it's clearly a metric bearing that's ground to imperial sizes, I'll post a photo if I remember.
The mainshaft bearings in the transfer box feel & look OK and the pre-load is about right so I might leave it alone. I managed to get a selection of shims for the speedo housing in case I had to reset the preload but I can keep them for the next gearbox....
The Hi-Lo selector shaft has a seal recess identical to the selector shafts on the gearbox yet the parts manuals show an O-ring seal. There was nothing fitted (maybe that's why there's evidence of rust in the components of the output shaft housing !) I'll fit a selector shaft seal during the rebuild.

It's a struggle doing all this in a packed workshop with only the floor as a workspace but I'm slowly getting there. Every time I do something I have to move stuff around.....

Colin

gromit

17th August 2012, 06:37 PM

I put the output shaft housing back together last night.

Pressing the bearing home. The odd bits of aluminium used to press it in are offcuts of extrusion from work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1891.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W15C6Y)DSCN1423 (https://flic.kr/p/W15C6Y) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Oil seal retainer about to be bolted on. I'm using Permatex no 2 and paper gaskets. It's interesting than the workshop manual just says grease the gasket paper. I've done this before and it works OK but I don't want to be pulling it down again soon so I'll stay with the gasket cement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1892.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WAprNM)DSCN1424 (https://flic.kr/p/WAprNM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Contents re-assembled & fitted. I had to double check the manual to make sure the parts were assembled correctly. The internals had rusted at some point, now I understand the internals it's important to engage 4WD occasionally to throw some oil round the inside of the output shaft housing. I just love the oil thrower, it really looks like something made from parts that were laying around in the factory. I applied oil with a paintbrush to everything as I assembled, tends to get a bit messy but at least I know everything is protected.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1893.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WksNes)DSCN1426 (https://flic.kr/p/WksNes) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Gasket on transfer box ready for the output shaft housing to be fitted. It's a fiddly job because you have to hold the selector in place in the transfer box (and it needs to be the right way round) then as you fit the housing the selector rod has to fit into the selector you're holding.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1894.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VmPTCe)DSCN1428 (https://flic.kr/p/VmPTCe) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Fitted and tightened up, selector works OK.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1895.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WksJGN)DSCN1430 (https://flic.kr/p/WksJGN) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Next I need to assemble the gearbox.

Colin

gromit

18th August 2012, 04:36 PM

It's been raining today so managed to get some shed time and reassembled the gearbox.

Pressing shaft into bearings

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1905.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WoGjSB)DSCN1432 (https://flic.kr/p/WoGjSB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Pressing the mainshaft into it's bearing, I used a block of hardwood because it was handy.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1906.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WksE3s)DSCN1437 (https://flic.kr/p/WksE3s) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

It's a bit fiddly putting everything back together but I got there in the end.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1907.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WwPznS)DSCN1438 (https://flic.kr/p/WwPznS) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Used the tool I made to tighten the nut on the mainshaft after selecting a forward gear & reverse at the same time to lock up the box. Fitted the tab washer without checking and the tabs didn't fit the slots in the nut. Managed to lock a tab in place with a few well placed blows with a pin punch.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1908.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WwPx4U)DSCN1440 (https://flic.kr/p/WwPx4U) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Selectors were next. All the shafts and detent balls were greased. I sealed the lid on with a smear of Permatex No2.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1909.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WwPvky)DSCN1445 (https://flic.kr/p/WwPvky) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Fitted the detent springs and used a clamp to compress the retaining plate grommets while I did the bolts up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1910.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WoGbt2)DSCN1446 (https://flic.kr/p/WoGbt2) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'm painting the cover plates, mainshaft rear bearing housing, brake backplate etc. Once they are dry I can fit them although in the meantime I might assemble the gearbox back onto the transfer box.
I then need to look for the gearstick, one mounting bracket and a few other bits the previous owner had removed, hopefully they are in the back of the car.

Colin

dolphint

18th August 2012, 09:25 PM

Colin, have a look in the back of that ex army 2A, I think there's a spare gear stick etc. in there somewhere.

Cheers Steve.

gromit

19th August 2012, 05:18 PM

Colin, have a look in the back of that ex army 2A, I think there's a spare gear stick etc. in there somewhere.

Cheers Steve.

Steve,

I still haven't got round to checking through everything that's in there yet, give us a chance it's only been about 20months now.....

The previous owner of the shorty had it on the road so the bits I need must be in one of the many boxes that came with it.

Gearbox with bellhousing resting on blocks of wood ready to accept the transfer box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1902.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wktmkm)DSCN1448 (https://flic.kr/p/Wktmkm) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Transfer box fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1903.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VjaAAY)DSCN1454 (https://flic.kr/p/VjaAAY) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Went to fit the transfer box intermediate shaft and remembered that the thrust washers had some non-rotating tags welded on. Must have been part of the modifications for the relocation of the shaft on the high speed conversion.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1904.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WApWrP)DSCN1451 (https://flic.kr/p/WApWrP) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Just need to get a few bits painted and finish reassembly.

I'm away the next couple of days running interviews in Sydney so I won't get time to work on it again until later in the week.

Colin

gromit

24th August 2012, 05:58 PM

I managed to get the intermediate shaft in the transfer box other night.
The original roller assemblies had the endplates of the cage very badly worn so I got some replacements but they are aftermarket. Not convinced they are as well made but the rollers were dropping out of the originals so they had to be replaced. I'll keep a look out for some genuine ones.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1913.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WTVcsP)DSCN1453 (https://flic.kr/p/WTVcsP) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The intermediate shaft is 1 1/8" diameter so it's an earlier transfer box (S2 ?)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1914.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W1oATG)DSCN1513 (https://flic.kr/p/W1oATG) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'll get some more painting done at the weekend and look in the back of the S3 for some of the 'missing' parts (and your old 2a GS Steve). One thing I do need to get is the handbrake operating arm boot otherwise I have everything else to complete the reassembly.

Colin

gromit

26th August 2012, 04:42 PM

Managed to get some of the transmission brake parts painted on Saturday, then I decided to cut the grass and the ride-on threw a belt. It's a very old Greenfield and I've spent very little on it over the 8 years I've owned it so time for some repairs. Ended up cutting the grass with a push mower today.

I did find time to get Wallit down the driveway a bit so I could take the Defender for a run. I found the deep cycle battery was flat (it's at least 4 years old) so time for a new one, maybe a new starting battery as well and the old one (still OK) can pass down the line to one of the other Land Rovers.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1912.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wx9ra1)DSCN1522 (https://flic.kr/p/Wx9ra1) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

isuzurover

29th August 2012, 05:38 PM

Rimmer Bros has genuine intermediate bearings:
Bearing - Intermediate Gear - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-594290)

gromit

30th August 2012, 06:16 AM

Rimmer Bros has genuine intermediate bearings:
Bearing - Intermediate Gear - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-594290)

Not sure whether that's for the earlier 1 1/8" shaft, I thought the originals had a metal cage.

Managed to get the transmission brake back together, the output flange & drum were fitted after the photo below was taken.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1911.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wp2h8R)DSCN1537 (https://flic.kr/p/Wp2h8R) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Just need to find the 'missing' parts in amongst the spares that came with Wallit and the gearbox can be installed. Then finally a chance to test the power of the 2.6 Isuzu.....

Colin

isuzurover

30th August 2012, 12:18 PM

Not sure whether that's for the earlier 1 1/8" shaft, I thought the originals had a metal cage.

NO. The Genuine bearings have a plastic cage, and are about a thousand times better than any metal caged bearings I have tried. I have pulled aftermarket metal caged bearings out that were cactus after <5k km - but I do use my series hard.

I am not sure when LR changed, but I have never seen any new, genuine, metal cage bearings. There may be some NOS ones laying around, but I would bet money that the plastic caged version is better.

gromit

30th August 2012, 12:57 PM

NO. The Genuine bearings have a plastic cage, and are about a thousand times better than any metal caged bearings I have tried. I have pulled aftermarket metal caged bearings out that were cactus after <5k km - but I do use my series hard.

I am not sure when LR changed, but I have never seen any new, genuine, metal cage bearings. There may be some NOS ones laying around, but I would bet money that the plastic caged version is better.

Does that apply to both the early (small diameter) and later (large diameter) intermediate shaft ?
All the aftermarket large diameter roller assemblies I've seen use a plastic cage, the early smaller diameter assemblies seem to use a metal cage.

Colin

isuzurover

30th August 2012, 01:06 PM

Does that apply to both the early (small diameter) and later (large diameter) intermediate shaft ?
All the aftermarket large diameter roller assemblies I've seen use a plastic cage, the early smaller diameter assemblies seem to use a metal cage.

Colin

I have only ever worked on large I-shaft t-cases. The small ones finished at Suffix A (IIA) - so about 1961???.

I would be suprised if you can still get genuine bearings for the early (small shaft) type???

gromit

30th August 2012, 08:15 PM

I have only ever worked on large I-shaft t-cases. The small ones finished at Suffix A (IIA) - so about 1961???.

I would be suprised if you can still get genuine bearings for the early (small shaft) type???

Wallit is a Bitzer (like the dog on Shaun the Sheep) so the g-box/t-box is a mix of S2 & S3 parts. You're probably right about the original bearings being unobtainable (although someone somewhere will have some stashed away).
It'll end up on club plates (because I'm told by SWMBO that I have too many rego's to pay each year at the moment) and won't be high mileage so aftermarket bearings will have to do for now.

Colin

gromit

1st September 2012, 08:15 AM

Had a rummage around amongst all the spares that came with Wallit.
I found the clutch operating arm and the gear lever (but it was missing the nylon cup on the bottom end). Also found new engine/gearbox mounts and a lot of other interesting bits like new Defender mirrors, lenses, door top runners etc. etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1448.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VjtgWh)DSCN1540 (https://flic.kr/p/VjtgWh) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The previous owner had used it for some years and accumulated a lot of new and secondhand parts. Looking at the sound deadening material fitted to the front floor I'm guessing the Isuzu motor is a tad noisy....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1449.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VnabSg)DSCN1541 (https://flic.kr/p/VnabSg) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

2nd September 2012, 05:29 PM

Finished re-assembling the gearbox yesterday so decided to mate it back to the engine.
I'd already purchased new HT bolts for the bellhousing and new gearbox mounts were found in amongst the spares that came with Wallit.

Ready for installing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1453.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WxaiKQ)DSCN1556 (https://flic.kr/p/WxaiKQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

In postion.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1454.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vjuetj)DSCN1557 (https://flic.kr/p/Vjuetj) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Done.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1455.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vnboia)DSCN1559 (https://flic.kr/p/Vnboia) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'm going to paint the handbrake lever & gearstick and replace the clutch slave, master & flexi hose. There are a few new bolts needed for the gearbox mounts then I can put the seat box back in and test drive.....

Colin

dolphint

2nd September 2012, 06:21 PM

Looking Great Colin!!!:D

gromit

3rd September 2012, 03:14 PM

Looking Great Colin!!!:D

Thanks Steve,

It's nice to have some space back in the workshop now the gearbox is installed. Busy most of this week so don't think I'll get a chance to work on it again till the weekend.

Colin

gromit

5th September 2012, 06:35 AM

I visited Fred Smith Land Rovers in Bayswater yesterday.
Turns out he has a Landy he's wrecking that is fitted with an Isuzu C240 motor ! Plus he knows someone in the club that also used to have a C240 powered Landy but the motor was removed to fit a Holden.
Should have asked him when I was looking for a flywheel......

He also has a very low mileage S3 shorty in the same pale green colour as Wallit. From what I could see it was brilliant condition although apparently there's a couple of dints on one front wing. One minor problem is the rod through the block, apparently the last owner ran the oil low and the motor karked it.
Find a motor, rebuild it and drop it into this Series 3 and you'd have one close to mint original condition, although the purists would pick up the incorrect engine number.....

Colin

dolphint

5th September 2012, 06:28 PM

gromit

6th September 2012, 06:28 AM

Sounds like a good candidate for a 200tdi transplant:D who much did he want for it?

Steve,
email sent

Colin

gromit

8th September 2012, 04:46 PM

I took the gearstick out of it's socket during the week because the grease was very dirty. To reassemble I tied string round the spring which made it a lot easier to get back together.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1450.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W1pQYy)DSCN1567 (https://flic.kr/p/W1pQYy) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The finished gearstick assembly beside one that came from a vehicle parted out recently.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1451.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wp3m1P)DSCN1568 (https://flic.kr/p/Wp3m1P) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I then checked over the clutch slave cylinder. I'd already got a new one for Wallit but the old one was a Girling and once fitted with a seal kit I decided to use it instead of the new one.

Picture shows the old one at the bottom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1452.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XSnuHw)DSCN1569 (https://flic.kr/p/XSnuHw) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Next the clutch pedal box was removed for repainting and the master cylinder checked out. It was a PBR unit and could have been put straight back in but I decided to fit a seal kit in it while it was out.

Just need to paint the pedal & pedal box and make up some gaskets then I can refit during the week. Geting closer to getting Wallit mobile.....

Colin

gromit

9th September 2012, 08:02 AM

Bugger, can't fit a generic LR seal kit to the PBR master cylinder.
PBR have a different piston shape and the ID of the main seal is larger, otherwise everything is the same.
I'll have to track down a PBR kit to overhaul this master cylinder so the new pattern one I have will be fitted instead.

Colin

gromit

13th September 2012, 07:55 PM

Clutch pedal box is ready to go back in at the weekend.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1458.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VjtvzE)DSCN1573 (https://flic.kr/p/VjtvzE) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I took the pedal out to overhaul the bushes & pins. All greased up and re-assembled but instead of the original solid pin holding the pivot pin in place I replaced it with a roll pin (1/8" x 1").

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1459.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wp3d6k)DSCN1576 (https://flic.kr/p/Wp3d6k) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Next I made up gaskets for the bulkhead and the top plate, an old inner tube provided the rubber.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1460.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wp3adB)DSCN1578 (https://flic.kr/p/Wp3adB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

15th September 2012, 05:55 PM

Fitted the clutch pedal box this morning after fixing the septic tank (bloody kids, I'm going to ration toilet paper from now on...).

The new clutch flexi hose was a bit shorter than the old one so I re-routed the rigid pipe to cope with the loss of length. Bled through OK and clutch worked.
Fitted the seatbox back in temporarily and bolted the gearstick on.
Moved a few cars on the driveway, started Wallit up then into reverse and we have movement. Brakes aren't flash (they will be overhauled next).

Previous owner claimed it was a bit slow pulling away because of the high ratio transfer box but accelerated very well for a NA diesel. Managed to get into 3rd on the driveway then had to reverse back. Gearbox works well.

Now to take the seatbox out and seal it in place, re-fit the handbrake then onto the brakes and swivel hubs. It never ends....

Colin

mick88

16th September 2012, 08:00 AM

Sorry, my previous numbers were a bit out.

2.25D flywheel (weighed last night after removal) ~18.5 kg.
I suspect a 2.25P then is only ~5 kg less.

Murray has posted previously that his 4BD1T (truck) flywheel was 14.7 kg. Dougal's ~16 kg. My landie 4BD1 was 16.0 kg but that would have been after at least 1 round of machining.

My previous measurements:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/newreply.php'do=newreply&p=1053126

A 2.25 petrol flywheel is 15kg

mick88

16th September 2012, 08:31 AM

Fantastic thread.
Well done.
Or should that be "well doing"

Cheers, Mick.

LowRanger

16th September 2012, 10:18 AM

Yep,sat here on a Sunday morning,reading this post whilst drinking a cuppa.Thinking what a good read it is,and hoping that you were going to get it back together and drive it before I got to the end:D
Well done Colin,I like your style:p
I will be dropping in for my weekly updates.

gromit

17th September 2012, 05:02 PM

Managed to remove the seatbox and seal it back in position last night.
I ended up using Sikaflex 227 which is available from Bunnings (or you can get it from Super Cheap at a higher price !). It's listed as suitable for bonding, sealing, vibration and sound deadening.
I applied to one surface and let it skin before fitting the seatbox, hopefully I don't have to remove it in the near future.

Seatbox re-fitted and floor temporarily in position. Not sure what the drivers seat is from but it's been fitted to LWB adjustable seat runners. May have to swap it for an original seat for a roadworthy.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1456.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XV7QKM)DSCN1580 (https://flic.kr/p/XV7QKM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

One of the problems I'm finding at the moment is that the car was purchased partly stripped. All the bolts, clips etc. are in the back somewhere it's just taking a long time to find everything.

I have to work on one of the front wings.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1457.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wp4sdM)DSCN1582 (https://flic.kr/p/Wp4sdM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Not sure why there is a hole in the middle of the dent, maybe the PO was trying to pull it back into shape.....

Colin

gromit

25th September 2012, 08:38 AM

I didn't get much done at the weekend.
The floor is back in but a few more bolts are needed, sound deadening is back in temporarily, it starts and runs well now it's being regularly 'used'.
I moved it onto the grass Sunday and jet washed it which threw up a few new issues to fix. The roof only has a few bolts holding it down, there doesn't seem to be any seals under the roof panels, the side panels need new seals where they sit on the tub.

I now need to get working on some of the expensive items :-
Seatbelts need to be checked and maybe replaced.
Windscreens need to be replaced, one cracked and one badly chipped.
Seats need to be re-covered and drivers seat possibly replaced.

These are after the brakes/axles are overhauled, swivel hubs replaced, doors repaired, new doortops fitted, wing panel beaten. Isn't it funny how that 'bargain' Land Rover always needs far more done to get it roadworthy than you ever expect (or is it just me ?).

Anyone have some spare seatbelts, door bottoms, bonnet and seats for a Series III at a reasonable price ? Otherwise I'll be looking for a parts car which inevitably turns into another 'project'..........

Colin

gromit

2nd October 2012, 04:46 PM

I haven't done much on Wallit for a while.

The sound deadening is back in but I need to make an extension for the 4WD lever (the knob sits flush with the sound deadening).
I just noticed that the clutch pedal is still wrapped with rag from when I reinstalled it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1750.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W1pGGU)DSCN1585 (https://flic.kr/p/W1pGGU) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'm heading past 4-Wheel Drives on business tomorrow (OK I'm making a small detour) so I quickly checked out the brakes to see if anything is needed. I already have seal kits for the wheel cylinders and everything else looks OK. Drums are either new or have been machined (I didn't check the internal diameter) and the shoes have plenty of friction material left.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1751.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XV9ncg)DSCN1590 (https://flic.kr/p/XV9ncg) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1752.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XV942i)DSCN1592 (https://flic.kr/p/XV942i) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

When turning the rear wheel there were some funny noises so hopefully it's wheel bearings rather than a diff centre needing attention.

The axles, springs and brake backplates are rusty from where it stood on grass for 3 years. It came with new spring & chassis bushes so I'll check out those fitted and see if they need replacing. The swivel hubs have grooves in the straight ahead position so I'll also have to replace them. Hopefully I won't find too much more that needs fixing......

Colin

gromit

8th October 2012, 08:36 PM

Collected brake flexible hoses from 4 Wheel drives last week but Wallit's on hold at the moment.
I'm busy working on my Series 1 to get the main fuel tank repaired plus I have to clear the driveway for a visitor due later in the week. Luckily now Wallit is driveable I can get him down the back of the property out the way for a while.

Colin

debruiser

8th October 2012, 08:59 PM

gromit

8th October 2012, 09:15 PM

Colin,

I just bought new seat belts for my S3. (the roadworthy guy was very impressed!) Point is I got them from Paddock spares for a pretty good price! I wouldn't stuff around with old crap.... after all it's safety gear....

I've found a supplier in VIC I just need to check out his prices. They are APV (formally Klippan) belts but they don't seem to list a lap belt. I have to take one of mine in as a sample, once I know the price I can make a decision.

I take your point about safety but I currently run a Series 1 on full rego with no seatbelts.

Colin

debruiser

8th October 2012, 09:20 PM

I've found a supplier in VIC I just need to check out his prices. They are APV (formally Klippan) belts but they don't seem to list a lap belt. I have to take one of mine in as a sample, once I know the price I can make a decision.

I take your point about safety but I currently run a Series 1 on full rego with no seatbelts.

Colin

No problems! At least you can go and see what your buying!

And THAT"S how we should roll! (no seat belts) :thumbsup:

wrinklearthur

8th October 2012, 09:41 PM

plus I have to clear the driveway for a visitor due later in the week.
Now I wonder who that might be?
.

gromit

10th October 2012, 05:39 PM

Now I wonder who that might be?
.

See you later in the week Arthur...

I just had to move my work car to get Wallit up the back of the property so I could re-locate the Series 2 LWB to leave the driveway clear for the tandem trailer, reminded me of this :-

Darryl : Ay Steve, can you move the Camira? I need to get the Torana out to get to the Commodore.
Steve: Sure thing Dad, but I'll have to get the keys to the Cortina if I'm gunna move that Camira.
Darryl: Alright mate, just watch the boat

Wallit is down the back keeping the FFR, 2aGS & Series I company.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1749.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XwtcYf)DSCN1612 (https://flic.kr/p/XwtcYf) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

chazza

11th October 2012, 09:03 AM

gromit

11th October 2012, 11:30 AM

This Land Rover thing is becoming a decidedly healthy obsession Colin - well done!

Might I suggest a 12m x 12m shed in place of Wallit's new home, so that all of you can move and work up there :D

Cheers Charlie

I'd love to Charlie but access to the rear of the property is restricted, funds are restricted (5 kids see to that), time is restricted (5 kids, a wife & work see to that).
The extension on the shed extension needs to be finished, the pool needs a new liner, the house roof needs painting, trees need cutting, driveway needs re-topping. Then there's the forge that's part built the 2 rocking horses to finish plus an old one to restore, the motorbikes that need to be restored (I brought several out with me when I moved from the UK).
Then on top of all this someone has put me onto a bloke with 6 Land Rovers he wants to get rid of.

If you ever see my name in the obituary column get round to my place quick because the wife will have one hell of a yard sale.....

Colin

chazza

12th October 2012, 08:21 AM

:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:

gromit

6th November 2012, 07:07 PM

After Interstate business trips, servicing the Defender, getting sidelined on gardening & making toys for the kids....
Wallit has now moved to a position where I can strip the brakes, swivel hubs, springs etc.
Started & ran well but there was a bit of white smoke on startup.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1402.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vkee6E)DSCN1735 (https://flic.kr/p/Vkee6E) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Just need to allocate some time, I already have the sealkits, brake flexi's, axle seals etc. I think there was a set of spring bushes in with all the spares so that's another job on the list.
I noticed today that the rear springs are mix-n-match. They seem to be made of a mixture of thick & thin leaves, worked OK for the previous owner so I may just re-bush them and re-fit for the time being.

Colin

gromit

12th November 2012, 08:13 PM

I'm overhauling the swivel hubs/brakes/axles on the driveway because of lack of shed space. Just need to cover everything to keep the dust/dirt out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1405.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XUpkAC)DSCN1933 (https://flic.kr/p/XUpkAC) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Had a lot of trouble removing the front axle drain plug at the weekend, the piece of bent steel strip I normally use was just twisting. On closer inspection the lip in the axle around the edge of the drain plug was badly worn from dragging on rocks when off roading. Used a short section of steel bar that only just fitted into the slot and used a large adjustable to turn it, finally it gave in and when removed the problem was an O-ring had been used instead of a copper washer, left the plug sitting low (it also had scrape marks on it). Drained out a few litres of clean(ish) gear oil which was a good start.

Removed the drum & shoes but decided to clean some of the dirt off the swivel hub & backplate before stripping it down any further. It's amazing how much dirt gathers when there's a bit of an oil leak.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1406.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VkepT1)DSCF9956 (https://flic.kr/p/VkepT1) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Removed the backplate, stub axle & drive shaft. I noticed the bush was missing from inside the stub axle which may account for some of the noises I was getting when turning the front wheel ?

Swivel hub off next to replace the seal & check the bearings & pre-load, then paint & re-assemble

Colin

gromit

17th November 2012, 07:35 AM

Next problem......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1404.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WBteiT)DSCN1740 (https://flic.kr/p/WBteiT) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Not sure why the swivel hub has worn like this. Maybe a shimmy in the straight ahead position, add some sand & dirt and it wears away in a narrow strip ?
I have another axle with reasonable swivel hubs so I'll have to swap them over. This is going to take longer than expected.

Colin

chazza

18th November 2012, 02:56 PM

gromit

19th November 2012, 06:43 AM

If you get the rust out of the worn section and fill the pitting with a two-part epoxy filler and then hand-sand it, I think it will save you the hassle of stripping the spare off.

This method worked on my S3,

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Charlie,

I did that with my Series 1 but it was only a couple of small pits, because this is a continuous band of wear in the straight ahead position I'm going to look at the spare axle.
I'll keep the old ones and repair them with 'plastic metal' anyway, you never know when another project will come along.....

4-Wheel Drives used to get them ground down & re-chromed. Probably cheaper nowadays to import new parts depending on the shipping cost.

Colin

gromit

20th November 2012, 07:17 AM

Stripped the spare front axle last night.

The swivel hub had been re-chromed, good condition but.....like everything else on the SIII D this axle came from it was full of water.
The diff pan has a small hole in it which I spotted when I was parting the vehicle out, the swivel hub & wheel hub had water mixed in with the grease so the bearings are damaged. The outer face of the swivel housing (where the stub axle bolts to) is badly pitted so parts of this axle have led a very hard life.

I may revert to repairing Wallit's swivel hub because at least all the bearings are OK.

Colin

gromit

22nd November 2012, 07:29 PM

Haven't had any time to work on Wallit but he now has a battery (I've been sharing a battery between the S2 109 & Wallit).

I replaced both batteries in the Defender today, they were 4 years old and the deep cycle had karked it. Luckily I have a contact in the battery industry and I got a good price (but had to drive to East Keilor this morning to collect them).
Nice new N70ZZ and a slightly smaller deep cycle fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1403.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XUpVSU)DSCN1868 (https://flic.kr/p/XUpVSU) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Went to look at an S2a SWB today, turned out to be a 'spares car'. Had a few good panels but the bulkhead was past saving, chassis had been cut & shut to fit a Holden motor.
Thinking about it but I really don't need it......

Colin

wrinklearthur

22nd November 2012, 08:22 PM

Went to look at an S2a SWB today,
Thinking about it but I really don't need it......Colin

That's showing some real intestinal fortitude there Colin.

I do like the covers over the battery terminals.

.

gromit

26th November 2012, 07:25 PM

Great trip to Wonnangatta Station at the weekend in the Defender.
A friend of a friend has been in there many times and also owns a Defender. He led I just followed (thanks Frank).

Had a delay on the way out when we found a tree across the track but with the help of a small chainsaw, a couple of axes, a bowsaw and some hard graft we got out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/1407.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WW2W1v)DSCN1910 (https://flic.kr/p/WW2W1v) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Just need to give the Defender a good clean and get back to working on Wallit.

Colin

gromit

2nd December 2012, 09:15 PM

Found some time to work on Wallit at the weekend.

Front swivel hub stripped & cleaned.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/1160.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vke4q7)DSCN1919 (https://flic.kr/p/Vke4q7) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Used epoxy metal to fill in the pits in the swivel hub.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/1161.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wmx4L5)DSCN1918 (https://flic.kr/p/Wmx4L5) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Carefully sanded the epoxy down so the seal has something to seal on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/1162.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VnVgFg)DSCN1927 (https://flic.kr/p/VnVgFg) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Fitted the original shims and the pre-load was OK. A new seal was installed with a bead of sealant in the housing to help reduce leaks and then the swivel hub was painted.

The brakeplate has been stripped and is in the process of being painted, both brake cylinders are OK and just need new seals.

Colin

gromit

10th December 2012, 08:11 AM

The front end is taking forever due to work/family commitments.......

Just need to clean up the seal spigot on the stub axle (being done at work today because there is too much junk on the floor in front of my lathe) then it's about ready to be put back together again.
Wheel bearings are OK so they will be re-used, seal kits through the wheel cylinders, new hub seal and I have to 'modify' the drive shaft UJ. I noticed when stripping it down that someone has left the rubber cups on the UJ so lubrication will only be from what oil finds it's way down the grease nipple hole. I'll remove the cups so lubrication is improved.

Then I have to do it all again on the other side, the only positive is that the swivel housing looks in better condition.

I was going to order new seats a while back but at this rate it will be months before I'll need them......

Colin

gromit

16th December 2012, 07:59 AM

One side is now almost back together.
Found another problem but more on that later when I get round to fixing it.

New seals, a few gaskets, some paint and time (whenever I get some free....).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/1159.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VkdV2J)DSCN1948 (https://flic.kr/p/VkdV2J) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Just have to re-fit the brake shoes, drum and then Wallit is temporarily mobile again. Then to repeat the process on the other side.

Colin

wrinklearthur

16th December 2012, 09:03 AM

Hi Colin

Which type of paint are you using on those parts?

I'm thinking that a epoxy rust preventative type would be the go to do the axle housings, etc for 'HECter' the 86".

Still thinking about a name for my 80", I'll wait for a while as it doesn't have a motor yet and to get one that's good enough to use, for that some $$$$ will need to be torn up and thrown into the pond.
The person that I eventually get a engine from, may have their name attached to the 80" for perpetuity.
.

gromit

16th December 2012, 04:18 PM

Arthur,

I used a spray 'epoxy' paint for some of the parts and brush applied for others. I think it was White Knight brand.

The paint isn't that hard and I found it scratched fairly easy.
It's fairly expensive at most outlets but Master's have recently opened a few stores locally and it's costing under $10 per spray can from them.

I went to put the front wheel on Wallit earlier and thought I'd check the inside of the rim because of the swivel housing leak......Ended up scraping off a couple of kilos of oil & mud that had accumulated and then degreasing.
The swivel seal I originally removed was a split one. There was no steel support in the seal at all , I always thought they were a conventional seal that was sawn through and you twisted it to get it in place. For the sake of undoing 6 bolts & nuts and replacing one gasket I think replacing the seal with a proper one is the way to go.

Colin

Just checked and it's Wattyl rust guard epoxy @ Masters. About $5 per can cheaper than White Knight @ Bunnings.

gromit

27th December 2012, 07:15 PM

Decided to make a start on the other side of the front axle.
Everything stripped off, cleaned and some parts de-rusted today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/1163.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WBsZW2)DSCN1967 (https://flic.kr/p/WBsZW2) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Same horrible split seal on the swivel hub. While it was still in place I pressed it and it distorted very easily so no wonder it leaked.
Wheel bearings OK, Swivel hub taper roller & Railko bush OK but there wasn't much pre-load so I'll have to adjust that on re-assembly.
One thread on the stub axle must have been stripped in the past so an oversize thread had been cut and a bigger bolt used.
Wheel cylinders aren't siezed so just seals to do.

When I removed the leaf spring I found that both bushes had started to perish so they were replaced.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/1164.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WxTny7)DSCN1971 (https://flic.kr/p/WxTny7) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Time for some repainting and then get it back together.

Colin

gromit

2nd January 2013, 07:06 PM

I thought I'd have some time over the Christmas break to work on Wallit.

Well I've ended up doing a lot of painting in dark green and limestone......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1564.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZKJw4z)DSCN1989 (https://flic.kr/p/ZKJw4z) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

After I have some trees chopped back I have to get to roof re-painted but the dormer windows were in need of a re-paint plus there was a pane of glass to replace.
When I made the brackets for the platform to work on I painted them because I'll keep them for future use. The wife made the comment " I suppose you painted them because they will be still on the roof in two years time like most projects you start...." I was really hurt by that comment.

Yes, for the safety conscious, that's a stepladder on the platform but it was strapped down.
I used a sky hook to work on the ridge capping.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1565.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2271nMF)DSCN2000 (https://flic.kr/p/2271nMF) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The right hand front of Wallit's axle has been overhauled, new seals etc.
The pre-load didn't seem high enough when I stripped it down but after stripping and scraping all the rust/dirt off the mounting faces for the pins I re-fitted the shims and it had corrected itself.

There was a minor problem on reassembly, I fitted the swivel hub seal and it wasn't making good contact on the top edge of the ball. I grabbed another seal but that was exactly the same so sat down and thought about it. It would need a shim between the taper roller bearing and the pivot pin to fix it or..... the alternative was to gently tap the seal inwards at the top edge. I did this and it sealed much better.
Wallit is made from a collection of different bits & pieces so the swivel hub, swivel hub housing, pivot pins for the taper roller & Railko could all come from different vehicles.

Swivel hub ready to be re-fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1566.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WxTj3u)DSCN1982 (https://flic.kr/p/WxTj3u) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The thread on the drive shaft has been badly damaged in the past and the splines are worn so I'm going to strip the one out of a spare axle and see if it's any better.

Swivel hub fitted just awaiting a drive shaft to complete this side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1567.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W2bCqC)DSCN2012 (https://flic.kr/p/W2bCqC) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

wrinklearthur

2nd January 2013, 07:41 PM

Hey Colin wasn't the green and limestone paint supposed to be for the Land Rover or did you get more than you needed for the house? :wasntme:

Those swivel pin housing seals where they seat into the outer part of the housing, did you run a smear of sealant around them and what type did you use?
.

gromit

3rd January 2013, 06:57 AM

Arthur,

I'm not a fan of silicone sealants so I used Permatex No 2 (non setting). I used my finger to apply the sealant into the corner where the seal is going to sit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1563.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VkdXeE)DSCN1928 (https://flic.kr/p/VkdXeE) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I did this on the Series I some years ago and it's leak free.

I also put some water resistant grease between the lips of the seal. I'm not sure it helps but it was something the father-in-law suggested.
If the inner lip is too good a seal the outer lip will run dry, plus it gives it some lubrication until the vehicle is regularly used and the oil is splashed around.

Colin

chazza

3rd January 2013, 08:42 AM

gromit

3rd January 2013, 01:55 PM

Nice work Colin!

Pardon me mentioning it, but I think it is time to get a base-plate under the axle stand, as it has the staggers at the moment. I wouldn't want your superb posts to end abruptly, forever! :eek:

Interesting thing about swivels and seals; in the S1 manual it says to get the same thickness of shims at the top and bottom so as to centralise the swivel, to allow the seal to work. In the S3 manual it says to set the pre-load using shims on the top swivel and then to tap the seal into position before clamping it in place.

Anyway; neither of mine leak yet, so both methods seem to work,

Cheers Charlie

Charlie,

The axle stand doesn't really lean like that, it's just how it looks from the angle of the photo/lens distortion.
You'd have seen from the house photos that I'm not a risk taker ;)

On one side the seal fitted perfectly and then this one the seal wasn't making good contact. I ended up tapping the seal in over about 1/3rd of its diameter.
Just need to sort out the drive shaft for this side and I can put it back together and see if it holds oil...

Stripped the spare axle this morning and the driveshaft isn't much better. Thread on the end better condition but splines badly rusted. Roller bearing rooted (rust & severe wear), UJ rusted.
The diff looks OK except the pinion flange taper roller bearing is rusted, if the inner taper roller is OK I might strip and rebuild the diff as a spare.

Saw these on TV the other day, might get some for the next time I have to work on the roof https://secure.roofhandles.com.au/index.html

Colin

gromit

4th January 2013, 02:53 PM

It's been too hot today to get up on the roof & paint so I managed to sort out Wallit's drive shaft.

One of the UJ cups had been spinning which made me think I should probably replace the UJ. The one fitted had plastic cups fitted (because it was a propshaft UJ) so I thought I'd rip one out before removing the UJ. More on this in a separate post.

Anyway, good thing I decided to replace the UJ !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1560.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WpNRVk)DSCN2018 (https://flic.kr/p/WpNRVk) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The wear pattern is odd, groves on one side, immediate thought was that it would have been the drive side. Then looked a bit further and the wear grooves on the next pin faced the first pin.
The cup that was spinning had a crushed needle roller in it, maybe one dropped out of place when it was assembled in the past ?

Drive shaft ready to go back in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1561.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WmwDbo)DSCN2022 (https://flic.kr/p/WmwDbo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I need to make a puller or a split ring to allow the inner roller bearing race to be pressed off the drive shaft. The one I removed from the spare axle needs an inner race fitted, a new UJ and some work with a file on the splines......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1562.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VnUTs8)DSCN2026 (https://flic.kr/p/VnUTs8) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Now was it the rubber boots that starved the UJ of oil or just a poor pattern part ? Was it the fact that the previous owner ran freewheel hubs ? Should I have checked the other driveshaft a bit more carefully before reassembling ??

Colin

gromit

5th January 2013, 07:29 PM

I was on the roof most of the day but decided to spend a couple of hours on Wallit this evening.

Re-fitting brake shoes has always been an issue for me. Do you lever them on with the springs in place, try and fit the springs after the shoes are held in position ??
I managed a while back to obtain some brake spring pliers, they would be OK for a small car but they struggle with Land Rover brake springs.
I keep meaning to ask the father-in-law, he will have some sure-fire way to do it (he was in the brake business for a number of years).

To side-track for a moment, it's always funny going to an old car rally with the father-in-law. He wanders up to early vehicles with spoked wheels, sticks his fingers through the spokes to the brake drum, feels it and usually states "that's one of mine...." The business he worked at made a lot of vintage, veteran and unobtainable brake drums, shoes etc for a number of years. The business was sold, the new owner a few years down the track had health issues and the business moved to Queensland.
I wonder what happened to all the old castings, patterns etc.

Anyway, I was about to fit the brake shoes and decided a special tool was needed. I thought if I could make a strip of steel that hooks over the edge of the shoe with a handle I can grab with both hands I could stretch the spring and get it into position much easier.
I found a stip of steel from the scrap bin made the hook to go over the shoe then because I couldn't be bothered to drag out the MIG welder I just put a hook on the other end I can slip an extension bar into.

Worked perfectly....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1557.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WBstF2)DSCN2031 (https://flic.kr/p/WBstF2) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Here's a closer view of the hook.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1558.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WpPX5B)DSCN2032 (https://flic.kr/p/WpPX5B) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

When I stripped the brakes down the slot in the wheel cylinder pistons was rusted. With this in mind I used rubber grease in the slot and on the end of the brake shoe. I also slipped the rubber boot up the end of the shoe while I fitted it, I've slipped before and managed to put a hole through the boot.

Swivel hub filled up with GL4 EP75W90, I was about to fill the diff when it crossed my mind I should change the pinion oil seal. I want to drop the propshaft anyway to check the UJ's so I might have a think about that tomorrow.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1559.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WxU6zG)DSCN2033 (https://flic.kr/p/WxU6zG) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Wheel is now back on, I need to jump up and down on the front crossmember tomorrow then tighten all the spring & shackle bolts.

Colin

chazza

6th January 2013, 12:01 PM

gromit

6th January 2013, 09:02 PM

You clever; clever lad Colin!:D

What a superb answer to a difficult problem! I always fit the springs to the shoes and then lever the shoe with a big screwdriver, but the stupid chamfer on the end of the shoes makes this a difficult proposition.

Your solution is brilliant, and one I shall plagiarise for my own toolbox,

Cheers Charlie

I thought it was just me with the big screwdriver, bloody shoe moving all over the place as I try for the 3rd or 4th time to get it into place.

Glad to have been of help.

Colin

MuckUte

6th January 2013, 10:17 PM

This is what I use for pressing bearings etc...., I have a couple of different sizes around 20 bucks at hong kong hardware if i remember

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1305.jpg

gromit

7th January 2013, 06:30 AM

This is what I use for pressing bearings etc...., I have a couple of different sizes around 20 bucks at hong kong hardware if i remember

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1305.jpg

Not quite sure how that relates to fitting brake shoes ?!

Colin

MuckUte

7th January 2013, 10:00 PM

Not quite sure how that relates to fitting brake shoes ?!

Colin

It was in relation to pressing the drive shaft bearings on and off as mentioned in the quote below, should have added the quote. My bad.

I need to make a puller or a split ring to allow the inner roller bearing race to be pressed off the drive shaft. The one I removed from the spare axle needs an inner race fitted, a new UJ and some work with a file on the splines......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1274.jpg

Colin

gromit

11th January 2013, 01:50 PM

I've been busy painting for the last week or so, plus I had to fix a few issues with SWMBO's car.
I was allowed some time to work on Wallit today (because it's too hot to paint !)

Time to work on the rear axle, I'd removed the RHS rear some time ago and all looked well. Decided to work on the LHS and found the brake linings worn to almost nothing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1574.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DY9vRo)DSCN2089 (https://flic.kr/p/DY9vRo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Not sure if the wheel cylinder has siezed or whether because the drum was difficult to remove the linings haven't been replaced at the same time as the RHS ?
Back to work on Monday so I can organise some replacement shoes or get the originals re-lined depending on the costs.

Noticed some severe corrosion in an unusual place when removing the wheel, looks like I'll need another rim !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1575.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WqCtzH)DSCN2093 (https://flic.kr/p/WqCtzH) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'll have to drop the tank to remove the RHS spring but I'll re-fit the bolt the other way round when I put it back together. Not 'original' but certainly more practical.

Colin

gromit

14th January 2013, 12:12 PM

The slave cylinder was free so it seems the brake shoes haven't been self-centering. Worn to nothing at one end of the lining but the other end was untouched.
Had my brake man, the father-in-law, look at the shoes & backplate and he picked up that if you adjust the brakes before you apply them hydraulically for the first time they will struggle to self-centre. I'll make a note of that, slacken off all the adjusters and apply the brakes hydraulically before adjusting in future.

Great to be back at work, took a quick spin along the street and picked up a set of new LWB rear brake shoes for $40 (cash, no receipt). It's getting more expensive to get them re-lined rather than buy new.

Colin

justinc

21st January 2013, 08:35 PM

gromit

22nd January 2013, 07:04 AM

Sorry to interrupt there Colin, but the Territory (2wd) had a major recall done on front lower ball joints/ radius arms, an upgrade was performed after several front ends collapsed.
Ford Territory front ball joint collapse (http://www.fordaustraliaforums.com/forum/showthread.php?41071-Ford-Territory-front-ball-joint-collapse)
The recall is free, and is retrospective. One of my customers had theirs done before chrissy, they are the second owners and knew nothing about it, it appears the first owner ignored the ford warning letters:mad:

JC

Thanks Justin,
My old Territory (now the wife's) has had the lower ball joints replaced twice, once after 5 years and still covered by warranty.
I was replacing caster ball joints & bushes.

The Territory is a great car but once they get old there are a lot of problems with diff bushes, ball joints etc. The front diff bushes require the engine to be lifted up to replace them with the original type ! I'm fitting Nolothane bushes soon, more NVH but it's only a school run car.

Colin

gromit

22nd January 2013, 06:26 PM

Started working on one of the rear springs tonight, they were doing the job on Wallit OK but they seem to be a bit of a mix of parts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1570.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VoKret)DSCN2099 (https://flic.kr/p/VoKret) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

It seems to be made from one thick leaf two thin leaves, then a thick then three thin then two heavy overload/rebound leaves.

One of the clamps holding the pack together has been welded in place and one of the rebound straps has a loose rivet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1571.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Cswo4x)DSCN2102 (https://flic.kr/p/Cswo4x) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The rivet I'll try and hammer out if I can get the springpack onto my anvil (maybe I'll weld it as a temporary measure !).

The plate the shock absorber mounts to is tired, shock absorber pin built up with weld and bent, holes for U-bolts worn oversize etc.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1572.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WCi4bn)DSCN2106 (https://flic.kr/p/WCi4bn) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The shackles are also worn.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1573.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VoKnNa)DSCN2108 (https://flic.kr/p/VoKnNa) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I could just turn the shackles around the other way and use the flat side against the springs. I might try and hunt down some replacements and also a shock absorber mount.

There were some spare springs that came with Wallit but I think they are fronts, the diesel SIII I parted out had good fronts but the rears were cactus so I'll probably persevere with these springs for the time being.

Hub parts are painted and ready to go back together.
I'm now using Dupli-Color Caliper Paint for the brake backplates. After testing it proved to be brake fluid resistant whereas the 'epoxy' paint I was using didn't like brake fluid at all....

Colin

isuzurover

22nd January 2013, 07:09 PM

IME those 2-stage springs flex well, but are also prone to snapping leaves, which probably explains your leaf thicknesses. Spring steel <5 mm thick is just about unobtanium these days.

gromit

23rd January 2013, 08:47 PM

I managed to peen the rivet to hold the strap back in place on the spring tonight. There is quite a bit of wear where the leaves have rubbed together so I'll be looking for replacements in the future.

Found a part number at one end of the spring pack.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1568.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wnm127)DSCN2111 (https://flic.kr/p/Wnm127) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Is that a Land Rover part number ?

There was a badly worn poly bush at one end and a badly worn isolastic at the other so these were replaced with new isolastic bushes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1569.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vm3iWs)DSCN2112 (https://flic.kr/p/Vm3iWs) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Progress is slow but at least there's progress....

Just found the spring part number
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/spring_rates.htm
It's listed as a 109" spring.

Colin

mick88

23rd January 2013, 09:10 PM

Yep!
Forwards forwards is better than forwards backwards!
A good thread and you are doing an excellent job.

Cheers, Mick.

isuzurover

24th January 2013, 01:00 AM

...

Just found the spring part number
Land Rover spring loads (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/spring_rates.htm)
It's listed as a 109" spring.

Colin

They are indeed 109" springs. 270 lb/in spring rate, vs 160 lb/in for OEM 88" springs. I have always known them as (109) station wagon springs.

gromit

24th January 2013, 06:39 AM

They are indeed 109" springs. 270 lb/in spring rate, vs 160 lb/in for OEM 88" springs. I have always known them as (109) station wagon springs.

Maybe now they're worn & tired they were felt suitable for an 88".

I need to chase up the 2a SWB parts car I was looking at before Christmas, hopefully that will provide more suitable springs. Problem is another Land Rover will be minus several million points with SWMBO.....

Colin

isuzurover

24th January 2013, 12:38 PM

Maybe now they're worn & tired they were felt suitable for an 88".

I need to chase up the 2a SWB parts car I was looking at before Christmas, hopefully that will provide more suitable springs. Problem is another Land Rover will be minus several million points with SWMBO.....

Colin

If it were me I would still run them. The fact that they are 2-stage should give you a compromise between ride comfort and load carrying ability.

greif

27th January 2013, 07:15 AM

thanks for a very fine thread where you explain what you are doing fine. have done the same with a 109 pick up in Sweden hoping to take it to the inspection in February so it can legally move for the first time in nearly 15 years in a barn, Iget to see how big a problem it is for me because I've done same findings as you did when I changed the oil to the gear box., I hope I can find another gear box that I can renovate while I try to run a bit with the car. again thanks for your thread. sorry I do not remember how to insert pictures but I'll think of it soon enough:mad:. Anders
:Dnow I've figured out how they did again. so there were two bad images from where it stood in the barn when I found it. truck bed and the cab was in another barn but now it starts to get some order on it have unfortunately not a good picture of it in its current state

gromit

28th January 2013, 05:53 PM

Managed to spend some time on Wallit between 'chores' this weekend.

Rear slave cylinder cleaned and new seals fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/150.jpg

I use rubber grease when assembling brake parts. All the books tell you to use brake fluid when assembling but because it's hygroscopic it will absorb moisture. Inside the braking system it's regularly flushed (well mine is) but the other side of the seal it could be busy absorbing moisture which eventually causes rust.

Spring re-fitted. I managed to strip a thread on one of the old U-bolts but I'll fit a replacement when I get it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/151.jpg

Next on with the stub axle, brake backplate and fit the new shoes & springs. That brake tool came in handy again.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/152.jpg

The new brake return springs had to have the ends ground down. They always seem to be just a bit too long.

Finally fitted the hub & brakedrum.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/153.jpg

Now the drivers side rear. Problem is that the fuel tank needs to be dropped to get the bolt out of the leafspring. I was thinking of turning the bolt round but I had a look today and there isn't a great deal of room.

Colin

gromit

4th February 2013, 05:32 PM

Wallit came with a spare set of rims so I decided to replace the 14 ply !! light truck tyres with something more sensible.
There are a couple of companies in Dandenong that specialise in secondhand tyres, I managed to get a set of part worn Dunlop SP Road Grippers in 7.50 x 16.
They are only an 8 ply so will hopefully give a better ride.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/1290.jpg

I'll fit them when I've finished the drivers side rear brake/hub/spring overhaul. The hub bearings were OK, the backplate & hub are about to be painted and the brake cylinder just needs a seal kit and a clean up. The fuel tank will be dropped this weekend to allow the leaf spring to be removed.

Colin

Brad110

4th February 2013, 09:10 PM

Colin

Can you post or PM me the tyre sales as it seems a good option.

Brad

Your vehicle looks great. are you coming to the 4wd show at Wandin?

gromit

5th February 2013, 06:43 AM

Colin

Can you post or PM me the tyre sales as it seems a good option.

Brad

Your vehicle looks great. are you coming to the 4wd show at Wandin?

Brad,

I'll send a PM.
I probably won't be going. I used to go in the past when I was setting up the Defender and needed to buy equipment but now I find $16 (I think) entry fee to see a load of companies that want to sell stuff to me is getting too much.

Colin

gromit

16th February 2013, 10:56 AM

I've been struggling to allocate time to Wallit but managed to get a couple of hours this morning.

I dropped the fuel tank to allow access to the spring bolt.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/538.jpg

I just need to clean & repaint the spring, shockabsorber and a few bits & pieces. Looking at the tank & the outriggers it mounts to they might need a clean & paint as well.

Next on the list is some seats & possibly seatbelts from the UK then repair the door bottoms.

Colin

gromit

19th February 2013, 07:45 PM

Because I'm working on Wallit one corner at a time I struggle to get the axle back onto the leaf spring in the correct position.
I've ended up using a ratchet strap round a crossmember or outrigger and over the axle to pull it into position.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/340.jpg

Last corner coming back together.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/341.jpg

You might notice the shock absorber is different to the other side. I repainted the original shock absorber which seems OK but then decided to fit HD ones I had 'in stock'. The original skinny ones will find their way onto my Series 1 which has a coil-over conversion and you cannot fit the bigger diameter HD shockers.

The axle strap is only bolted on one side at the moment, once I jack up the axle I'll fit the other side.
When I fit the replacement wheel and s/h tyres I'll change the shock absorber on the other side.

While the fuel tank is out I might strain the contents into a couple of cans and clean and repaint it.

Colin

gromit

23rd February 2013, 04:52 PM

Last corner completed...
New brake shoes fitted along with new springs. I often have problems getting everything in place without losing the springs so this time I put a twist of wire round the problem one. The tool I made came in handy and they were fitted very easily.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/214.jpg

The tyres that Wallit came with were a Chinese14 ply Light Truck type and had a strange wear pattern, added to that the rims on one side had the raised section around the wheel nuts and the hub studs weren't long enough. On the other side they were the correct rims.
Secondhand tyres were fitted to another set of rims that came with Wallit and I fitted them today making it look a bit better.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/215.jpg

The only problem I found with the secondhand tyres was the tubes. The company I used don't fit new tubes so they used my old ones and for one tyre they just used what they had available. Problem is the valve stem sticks outside the rim so I'll have to buy a correct tube and get it fitted.

Lots of bits to buy for Wallit now but I also want to take the prop shafts off and check them out (the rear had some play through a UJ). The tank is being painted, then an overhaul kit through the master cylinder and I can finally check out the LWB brakes.

I stilll need wing outer panels and either door bottoms or I'll weld up the originals.

Once it's on Club Plates and I've checked it out I'll consider a re-spray.

Colin

gromit

3rd March 2013, 07:37 AM

Fuel tank painted, well all except the bottom which I'll do when I get it bolted back in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1159.jpg

There was a lot of dirt trapped between the tank and the outriggers it bolts to so I ended up cleaning & re-painting them to hold back the rust.

Should get time to re-fit the tank later today.

Colin

grey_ghost

3rd March 2013, 12:16 PM

Looking fantastic there Colin! Keep up the great work - it helps to motivate some of us on here!
:)

gromit

4th March 2013, 01:00 PM

Looking fantastic there Colin! Keep up the great work - it helps to motivate some of us on here!
:)
Thanks Grey Ghost.

The problem is it all seems to be taking so long, there are still 3 others waiting to be rebuilt plus 2 others to keep on-the-road. Work commitments are taking up a lot of time with Interstate travel, recruitment etc. etc.
I still have a SIIa shorty to collect (if the bloke hasn't sold it) plus a shed to finish building plus a heap of jobs on SWMBO's list (which seems to be continually growing).

This weekend flew by but I did manage to get all the batteries on the Land Rovers charged plus I started & ran 3 of them in between cutting grass, taking out hard rubbish, installing a new dryer, fixing the pool etc.

Next weekend is the Scoresby Steam Rally so that takes up one day, the following weekend is Corowa (for the Military gathering).
Now someone has offered me a Model T Ford in bits. Do I ? Don't I ?

Slow & steady wins the race.

Colin

wrinklearthur

4th March 2013, 01:28 PM

Now someone has offered me a Model T Ford in bits. Do I ? Don't I ?
Hi Colin

My wife's comment was, Oh ! GGGGG'sssss , don't you ( meaning me ) even think of it !

:banban:

.

gromit

6th March 2013, 08:50 AM

Re-fitted the fuel tank last night. Great fun on your own, especially when the tank is half full (because I was too lazy to drain it).
Balanced it up on chocks of timber, lifting each end and adding more timber until the trolley jack and a spreader plate could fit underneath. After that it was quite straightforward (well apart from guiding it into place while pumping the trolley jack with one foot).
It's getting dark earlier now so the underneath will have to be sanded & painted another night. I'll probably take the brake master cylinder, booster and pedal box off next because I can work on that in the shed rather than on the driveway.

I still have to speak to the guy about the Model T Ford, he has a few other projects he wants to move on as well. A couple of 3-wheel Morgans (I really can't afford them), a number of FN motorbikes, a 1950's MG......it's all too tempting. Problem is they will just fill up my sheds and it'll be years until I get any work done on them, but I may never get the opportunity again.......

Colin

chazza

6th March 2013, 08:40 PM

I have searched high and low for just the pieces of a Model T and found nothing :( Take the Morgans there is a profit to be made in them, if nothing else,

Cheers Charlie

gromit

7th March 2013, 07:30 AM

I have searched high and low for just the pieces of a Model T and found nothing :( Take the Morgans there is a profit to be made in them, if nothing else,

Cheers Charlie

Charlie,

The Morgans are worth stupid amounts of money.

The Model T has been scattered around his property (in ramshackle sheds) for many, many years. I think there is enough to make a complete vehicle, maybe more than one vehicle.....

I'll catch up with him at the weekend and have a chat.

Colin

gromit

12th March 2013, 05:02 PM

It was too hot to do much over the weekend although I did drop the rear propshaft so that I can check/replace the UJ's.

Instead I thought I'd check out a radiator that came with the Series III Diesel I parted out a while ago. It looked like it had been recored at some point in the past and could be used on Wallit because the fins on his radiator fitted have corroded away.

I turned up a couple of plugs and put a 1/8"BSP tapped hole in them. One is fitted with a Scrader valve (tyre valve) the other has a pressure gauge fitted. These are used on the inlet & outlet of the radiator. The hard part was locating a low pressure gauge at a reasonable cost.
The inlet/outlet connections were damaged so I ground some old waterpump pliers to a radius so that I could get the connections back to shape so that the hose would fit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/729.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/730.jpg

I used a bicycle pump to raise the pressure to abouut 10psi. The pressure dropped off immediately so after some more pumping & listening I realised the radiator cap was leaking. Off to Repco for a new cap.
Added some water to the radiator this time before pressurising. Pressure dropped off slowly, rolled the radiator round and found a split in the bottom tank. Depressurised and soldered over the crack. Repeated and found another crack, soldered and repeated. This time the pressure dropped but much more slowly. Turned the radator upside down and found a crack in the header tank fixed this then found another one.
Finally it holds pressure, dropped only slightly overnight.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/731.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/732.jpg

Problem is, these were cracks in the brass tanks. They could have been caused by the tanks work hardening but could also be because the radiator has been out of the vehicle and dropped/bumped over the years.

If it's because the tanks have work hardened then I'm thinking hard about whether I use it or throw it away.......

Colin

gromit

20th March 2013, 06:54 AM

I collected a C240 engine last night (thanks Matt) for spares.

So far I know of 5 conversions.
Mine, the motor was originally in a LWB and the previous owner transferred it into the shorty.
Matt's Series 2a LWB which provided the spare motor.
An engine/gearbox/transfer box assembly which was for sale on Ebay.
Fred Smith has one (LWB and knew someone in the LROCV that used to have one.
Most seem to have been in LWB Land Rovers.

I wonder how many conversions Dellow made and was it a drive in - drive out conversion ?? The C240 motors would have been readily available from companies importing vehicles & half cuts from Japan so maybe you just sourced the adapter & flywheel from Dellow. I'll have to look through some 1980's 4WD magazines and look for adverts unless anyone has some old Dellow brochures...

Anyway, I now have a spare flywheel & conversion plate, injector pump, starter, alternator etc. Condition of the motor is unknown at this stage but it's handy to have a spare.

Isn't the internet wonderful. I just thought I'd do a quick search for more info and "Isuzu C240 Land Rover" throws up a few pictures of Wallit and links to this thread !
Did find this though :-

The C240 is a 2.4 L, 86 mm bore Overhead valve - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia 8V engine often used in stationary and forklift applications.

This family of Isuzu engines were fitted in early diesel Jeepney - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia made by Francisco Motors and Sarao Motors in the http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philippines.

Quite a few seem to be fitted to boats !

Colin

gromit

20th March 2013, 07:17 PM

Motor is free, took a bit of effort on the front pulley nut to turn it over but at least it's not seized.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/424.jpg

Nice extractors.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/425.jpg

"OK 85-95psi" probably from when the motor was purchased ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/426.jpg

Colin

gromit

25th March 2013, 05:46 PM

I took the brake pedal box out at the weekend, now I have to either repair or replace the brake servo.
I have an overhaul kit for the master cylinder but the servo looks very old and past it's use-by-date. It may work but the vacuum connection/non-return valve is crumbling away, the body is in poor condition and the master cylinder end doesn't look too healthy.
Currently investigating overhaul vs. pattern replacement.
I'll have to add it to the list of parts needed from the UK.

Rear propshaft turned out to be OK, no play in the UJ's or the slip joint. Just giving it a coat of paint a new slip joint seal and a protective boot. Then off with the front propshaft for the same check.

List of work to be done (I'm sure I'll find some more things .....)

Repaint pedal box
Overhaul brake master cylinder
Order parts from the UK - seats, seatbelts & servo.
Repair door bottoms, paint door bottoms.
Paint and fit replacement door tops
Replace radiator & hoses
Replace windscreens.
Panel beat or replace the front wings
Respray

Another bargain Landy that costs a fortune to get back on the road. I hope the Isuzu motor gives a reasonable performance after all this work !

Colin

gromit

30th March 2013, 03:39 PM

Rear propshaft is back on and front is off for checking.

The brakes were working but everything else in the braking system has been checked so while the brake servo is away being reconditioned I thought I'd overhaul the master cylinder.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/34.jpg

No problems internally so just needs a cleanup & a seal kit put through it.
The reservoir isn't in great condition, they all seem to suffer on one side from UV where the gap between the bonnet & wing allows light through. The previous owner had covered this side with tape but once lifted off there are a lot of cracks in the surface. I have another one that has started to crumble to dust so I'll have to get a couple of replacements.

Colin

gromit

2nd April 2013, 12:26 PM

I'm just putting together a couple of orders for the last parts I need for Wallit from the UK (plus some spares for stock). Once I get these the final items will be the windscreens, wings & doors. I think I'll put another advert in Markets.

I had Wallit running at the weekend and the engine (and the rest of the car) vibrate a lot at tickover. Once the revs are increased slightly it all settles down. I replaced the gearbox mountings but I'll have to check the engine mountings (or raise the tickover !). There are a lot of cracks in the front wings which may have be caused by the vibration.
I took it for a quick run down the driveway and the acceleration seems OK but the final proof will be when it's back on the road.....

Colin

gromit

5th April 2013, 01:33 PM

The servo is on it's way back from Hydroboost. Fully reconditioned for $217 including return freight.
http://www.hydroboost.com.au/

Terry told me it was the worst condition servo that he has repaired rather than thrown away.
He phoned up early on to let me know that they could linish the outside to remove the rust pits. I declined because it's going to be a working car rather than a show car. The push rod one end was damaged, studs were loose, diaphragm past it's prime etc. etc.
I'll post a before and after photo when I get it back.

Colin

gromit

7th April 2013, 06:05 PM

Pedal box is back together waiting for the booster to arrive.
I'll make a gasket from an inner tube for where it seals against the bulkhead.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1232.jpg

The front driveshaft has been repaired at some point in the past. A new splined section has been welded in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1233.jpg

The splined section had been pulled out of the seal somehow. The seal (cork) had the shape of the splines in it and the split washer has been pulled out through the screw on holder. I flattened the washer out but there is no way it will go back in place without a lot of work so something else on the shopping list. Problem is it doesn't show up in the parts manuals so I might have to visit a propshaft repairer and see if they can help.

Colin

gromit

9th April 2013, 06:02 PM

Booster turned up yesterday.

New pushrod installed, studs welded back in, new non-return valve, new diaphragm etc. All done for less than the price of a pattern part.

Before

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1091.jpg

After

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1092.jpg

Must get onto ordering those last parts from the UK.

Colin

gromit

14th April 2013, 06:36 PM

Fitted the brake pedalbox and servo this weekend.
Must get that order off to the UK because I need a reservoir for the brake master cylinder.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/860.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2353_zpsac2195ff.jpg.html)

Just looked at the picture and I must remember to spread that splitpin.

Didn't get much time for anything else, but I did chase after a couple of 'spares' cars.
Series 2 wagon that was driven round Australia 15 or so years ago then parked up outside. Full of rat **it and the smell......
All four front doors in brilliant condition. Home made 'tropical high roof' if you want a bit more headroom in the back. Bulkhead past saving, high ratio diffs, wrapped & greased springs and a few other gems.
Series 2 LWB ute. Tree recently fell on it. Parked up under trees years ago but again quite a few bits worth saving.
Heading back in a week or so with a toolbox and some cash.

Colin

gromit

19th April 2013, 08:14 AM

As mentioned before, the split washer that holds the seal in place on the sliding joint cap for the propshaft had been damaged.
It had been dragged through the cap and turned on it's edge, when flattened out it would need some 'panel beating' to get it back to shape.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/628.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2355_zps2438aae8.jpg.html)

I visited a propshaft repair joint yesterday and after they had searched high & low they came back with a 'new style' cap and seal. Instead of a cork seal it uses a rubber seal which doesn't need the split washer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/629.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2356_zps4c1576c4.jpg.html)

Front propshaft ready to get re-installed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/630.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2357_zps47fcb4a6.jpg.html)

I haven't done much else because of lack of time (work is starting to interfere with my social life). The evenings getting dark so early doesn't help because I am working on Wallit outside because of lack of room in the garage/sheds.
Tomorrow I collect a walking foot industrial sewing machine so in the future I might be able to re-upholster seats and eventually repair/modify canvas tops. It's very, very old but works and has been used for the last 20 years for upholstery work on vintage cars.

Colin

dolphint

24th May 2013, 11:40 AM

Hi Colin, I hope all is well. I'm going through withdrawal!!!:o any progress since your last post:(

gromit

24th May 2013, 12:09 PM

Hi Colin, I hope all is well. I'm going through withdrawal!!!:o any progress since your last post:(

Hi Steve,

An Interstate trip, a few health problems, other priorities etc. As long as I keep taking the tablets I'll be OK....

Parts about to be paid for in the UK so more to follow once they arrive.

I'm in the process of re-building a diff centre (just set the pinion pre-load last night) and a steering relay. I'll post some photos soon.
I also have to chase up a couple of parts cars.

Did you have any joy with the V8 County at Red Hill ?

Colin

gromit

25th May 2013, 09:18 AM

I've not been spending as much time as I'd like in the shed just lately so I decided to start a couple of smaller jobs where I can work on them for an hour here, half an hour there.

I have a couple of spare diff centres. One turned out to be AOK and also a 3.54:1 ratio. Previous owner of Wallit must have wanted to give hime even longer legs. Anyway cleaned that one up, oiled and glad wrapped and put into stock.
The other diff is a 4.7:1 ratio but the axle it came from had a small hole in the diff pan so there was water in the oil when I stripped it. Crownwheel & pinion were rust free but the taper roler bearings had suffered a bit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/268.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2383_zps955a817b.jpg.html)

I decided I'd replace the bearings and set up the diff. Timken are a bit expensive, it would have cost over $200 in bearings, so I ended up with a no-name (well Bearmach but no-name on the bearing so probably Indian), a Timken (with a Bearmach sticker) and a couple of mixed (inners & outers from different manufacturers). With that and a few shims I was ready ....

First problem was going to be setting the pinion height.
I decided to work on the basis that the pinion height was correct when stripped. So by measuring the overall height of the old pinion thrust bearing and the new one I could then measure the shim behind the old bearing and add or subtract the difference in bearing height.
Bearing outers were removed using a punch (not much room but a couple of cutouts to get to the bearing races).

I have a very small surface plate, so on with a magnetic base and a dial gauge and measure the bearing heights.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/269.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2376_zps15cfe7a9.jpg.html)

New shim calculated so the bearing outers for both pinion bearings were pressed into place (with the shim behind the thrust bearing).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/270.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2378_zps65b6e3ed.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/271.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2379_zps0d6c2c61.jpg.html)

The inner race of the pinion thrust bearing was pressed into place and the pinion assembly put back into the diff centre.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/272.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2381_zpsf459a50f.jpg.html)

Now comes a bit of messing around to set the pre-load on the pinion bearings.
You can see why it costs a bit to get someone to do this for you because of the number of times you have to assemble, tighten, then take apart again to swap shims around. The seal will not be fitted until the assembly has been fully checked.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/273.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2380_zps26252b12.jpg.html)

Next will be some string around the input shaft and a weight to check the pre-load (6-25 inch pounds). The diameter the string is working on will be under 2" so the weight needs to be between 7 and 28lbs.

After all this I hope the pinion height is correct otherwise it all has to come apart again, the pinion thrust outer race removed and the shim changed !!

More when I find time to get back into the shed.

Colin

gromit

25th May 2013, 03:52 PM

Pressed the inners bearings onto the crownwheel assembly earlier today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/255.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2384_zps34c9af96.jpg.html)

Crownwheel bearings look like ex military.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/256.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2385_zpsc713281a.jpg.html)

Should be fun balancing everything to get the crownwheel assembly into place and the endfloat set correctly. Might make a holder for the diff.
Need to source some more shims for the pinion shaft, can't quite get the pre-load set correctly. Alternatively I could get one ground down, I know a couple of people with a surface grinder.

Probably best to get the crownwheel fitted and check for the correct mesh of the crownwheel & pinion before spending too much time getting the pre-load set correctly.

Colin

dolphint

25th May 2013, 08:07 PM

Hi Steve,

An Interstate trip, a few health problems, other priorities etc. As long as I keep taking the tablets I'll be OK....

Parts about to be paid for in the UK so more to follow once they arrive.

I'm in the process of re-building a diff centre (just set the pinion pre-load last night) and a steering relay. I'll post some photos soon.
I also have to chase up a couple of parts cars.

Did you have any joy with the V8 County at Red Hill ?

Colin

Sorry to hear that mate, I hope the health issues are not too serious. I didn't follow up on the V8 as Kaa45's son (my nephew Andrew) offered me Danny's Turbo'd Isuzu County so I've got my hands full again

Lionelgee

26th May 2013, 09:15 AM

Hi Steve,

An Interstate trip, a few health problems, other priorities etc. As long as I keep taking the tablets I'll be OK....

Colin

G'day Colin,

Good to have you back posting again. I follow Dolphint's sentiment that I hope that your health issues are not major ones and the medication does its job without setting anything else out of balance. Take care Colin and it is good to see you working again on the project.

Kind Regards
Lionel

gromit

27th May 2013, 08:24 PM

Just paid for some DeLuxe seats from LR Series (plus a lot of other bits), and seatbelts (plus Defender mirrors and lots of other bits) from Paddocks.
Shipping was exxy on the seats but cheaper than getting them re-covered locally.
I have an industrial sewing machine now but I'll use that for the Series 2, FFR & 2a GS seats..... just need to source the material & thread.

Started to make a list of stuff to be done and it seems to get longer everytime I think about it.

Replace doortops.
Repair door bottoms.
Replace door locks.
Replace radiator (new one came with Wallit) and hoses.
Check steering box & relay.
Drop off all the steering arms, check, paint, grease & fit new boots.
Fit seats & seatbelts (when they arrive).
Replace rear brake flexi pipe.
Fit brake master (when reservoir arrives) and get brakes working.
Fix reverse lights.
Replace windscreens (need to source some first).
Source a jack (like most of my LR's it came without one).

Then there's some panel beating & painting to be done but that can wait until it's on club plates.

Need to get the diff centre and a steering relay finished before all the new parts turn up.

Colin

chazza

28th May 2013, 06:45 AM

Replace windscreens (need to source some first).

Colin

Nice to see you back Colin! :D

I bought my glass from Paddock; it seems to be very good quality and was a sensible price and they were prepared to ship it, unlike Craddock,

Cheers Charlie

gromit

28th May 2013, 07:29 AM

Nice to see you back Colin! :D

I bought my glass from Paddock; it seems to be very good quality and was a sensible price and they were prepared to ship it, unlike Craddock,

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Charlie, never thought of shipping glass.
I have a price from a fellow forum member for getting laminated cut and etched locally (approx $70 each). I'll have to investigate Paddocks prices & shipping.

I'm thinking along the lines of a softop windscreen frame with new glass and a hardtop windscreen frame with new glass. I should be able to move them between vehicles for roadworthy purposes :)

Colin

wrinklearthur

28th May 2013, 09:55 PM

just need to source the material & thread.

For the thread try a boot maker and use bee's wax on the thread so it sew's easily.
.

gromit

29th May 2013, 01:08 PM

For the thread try a boot maker and use bee's wax on the thread so it sew's easily.
.

Arthur,

I've found a company that can supply the vinyl (for bus seats) and also UV resistant thread.
The bus vinyl is only available in dark green and grey which is lucky because those are the colours I need.....

Haven't checked prices yet but they will deal with 'the public' which is a good start.

Colin

gromit

31st May 2013, 02:21 PM

The first parcel has turned up from Paddocks so I have my seatbelts, mirrors etc.
Delivery is that quick I'll have to look at using them more often. I usually have to wait a week or so until I'm heading past the local Land Rover parts supplier. Delivery from the UK might actually be quicker !!

I'll try to get back to the diff & steering relay this weekend to clear the workbench.
Maybe the seats will turn up next week then I don't have many excuses left. I just need to get on with it.......

Colin

wrinklearthur

31st May 2013, 08:18 PM

I've found a company that can supply the vinyl (for bus seats) and also UV resistant thread.
The bus vinyl is only available in dark green and grey which is lucky because those are the colours I need.....
Haven't checked prices yet but they will deal with 'the public' which is a good start. Colin

Hi Colin

This public Joe want's to know who they are?
.

gromit

1st June 2013, 11:54 AM

Hi Colin

This public Joe want's to know who they are?
.

Arthur,

Turns out the bus vinyl was in red & 2 shades of green (I was sure there was a grey)
I'll see if I can get some samples in the next week or so and I'll send to you. I'll check out a grey from the automotive range.

http://nolanuda.com.au/media/pdf/Automotive%20Marine/Nolan_UDA%20Catalogue%20E4%20Auto%20&%20Marine%20Vinyl.pdf

There is also a huge range of commercial vinyl.

http://nolanuda.com.au/media/pdf/Furniture%20Upholstery/Nolan.UDA%20Catalogue%20E4%20Commercial%20Vinyl.pd f

Colin

gromit

3rd June 2013, 05:18 PM

In between the rain, drizzle & showers at the weekend I did some more work on the diff I'm rebuilding.

I needed some way of holding it to the bench and I had a scrap housing :-

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1384.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2407_zps5b52db7c.jpg.html)

It really needs the end flattening but I'll have to warm it up a bit first.

Next I checked the pre-load with some weights :-

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1385.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2412_zps10fbbc48.jpg.html)

Next the diff was mounted to the edge of the bench while I dropped the crownwheel into place and checked the backlash. I think I'll drill a hole in the bracket I made so that it can be bolted down securely next time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1386.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2414_zpsf1c41afe.jpg.html)

I checked the mesh of the gears and got some strange patterns. I then remembered a question by the Father-in-law....."did you check the backlash before you stripped it ?". Well I didn't so I need to think about it for a bit and try setting it up again. I hope the pinion main bearing doesn't have to be pulled out again because setting up the pre-load is a PITA.

I put the diff to one side and started making a tool to compress the spring back into a steering relay (service tool 600536). The earlier relay shafts have a hole in them that allows you to put a bar through to compress the spring but the relay I'm working on is from a Series III (no hole).

First mark out some 3mm plate :-

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1387.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2405_zps22d84229.jpg.html)

Cut and file it then check it fits :-

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1388.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2408_zpsc232a2ce.jpg.html)

Cut and assemble the backing strip and handles :-

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1389.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2410_zps28154861.jpg.html)

Weld together and final check :-

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1390.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2411_zps7b9f24c9.jpg.html)

While the paint is drying, turn down the seal faces on the relay shaft. (The unit I'm repairing was full of water and the shaft was badly pitted ).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1391.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2398_zps7f8a6bc3.jpg.html)

The steering relay and diff are spares but it was raining & Wallit is outside. I fancied a day 'in the shed'.

When I came in SWMBO asked "what have you been doing all afternoon ?"
I replied 'rebuilding a differential".
She then asked "which part of the house is that from ?"
I replied "it sits on the driveway" and immediately lost several thousand points !

Colin

wrinklearthur

3rd June 2013, 05:54 PM

Hey Colin.

Should have told her it's for the opposite end to the water pump.
.

gromit

3rd June 2013, 07:24 PM

Just spent a short time in the shed while waiting to collect No 3 son from Cubs.
I opened up one of the inertia reel seatbelts in the consignment from Paddocks and got a pleasant surprise.

It comes with all bolts plus a few brackets etc. (on the box it lists numerous vehicles it will fit).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/594.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2419_zps86e7ca1e.jpg.html)

It has a label sewn in with the standards it complies with.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1378.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2420_zps9c3e2055.jpg.html)

AS/NZS is a standard for Australian seatbelts !
AS/NZS 2596:2003 - Seat belt assemblies for motor vehicles (ECE Regulation No. 16, MOD) (http://www.techstreet.com/products/1180563)

I was worried in case it wouldn't comply. Instead compliance, new bolts etc. and a new inertia reel belt for 23.14GBP plus postage !

Colin

slug_burner

3rd June 2013, 08:47 PM

Good value for the seat belts, I paid $150 just for the lap sash and the lock/buckle ends for the rear seat of my defender after storing my originals in a very safe place.:angel:

gromit

4th June 2013, 06:32 AM

Good value for the seat belts, I paid $150 just for the lap sash and the lock/buckle ends for the rear seat of my defender after storing my originals in a very safe place.:angel:

I was quoted $120 locally for the inertia reel belt.

On the down side........I ordered an inertia reel lap belt for the centre position and this has no label on it so possibly doesn't comply to any regulations. I'll get on to Paddocks and find out whether the label is 'missing' or whether I should have ordered a static lap belt.
It was only 14GBP but it's not a bargain if it doesn't comply !

Colin

gromit

6th June 2013, 07:54 AM

No reply from Paddocks about the seatbelts yet, I'll have to chase them again.

Just got notification from LR Series & Fedex that my parts are on the way. Ordered the same time as the parts from Paddocks and are only just leaving the UK.
Either they were out of stock of something or picking/packaging takes a while, mind you there was a set of DeLuxe seats to be packed.....

Long weekend coming so hopefully I get at least one day to work on Wallit.

Colin

gromit

6th June 2013, 09:07 PM

Decided to finish the steering relay tonight.
It came off a spares car and was in poor condition but a couple of gaskets, a couple of new seals, skimming the shaft, drilling out a broken bolt and re-assembling and it'll do as a spare.

Mounted in the vice partly assembled.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1268.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2433_zps43c4c76f.jpg.html)

Spring compressed and locked in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1269.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2432_zps99091b6f.jpg.html)

Split Tufnol bush held with a hose clamp so the spring compressor tool can be removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1270.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2434_zps76b7721f.jpg.html)

Endcap on with a smear of Permatex non-setting gasket cement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1271.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Spare%20parts/DSCN2435_zps982b5355.jpg.html)

I used cap heads which are very non-original......and will also foul the steering arm. The correct shallow, undersized head bolts are on the way from the UK.
The brass thrust washers at either end were re-used after cleaning but the steel washers that sit between the spring and the tufnol bushes had to be replaced because they were badly rusted.

I filled it with oil before the endcap was bolted on.

Colin

Brad110

7th June 2013, 06:16 AM

gromit

7th June 2013, 06:35 AM

Colin, I know you virtually live in the shed but I am reluctant to share with you that OE units are available in Melbourne for $50.

It is not in vain, I thank you for sharing your knowledge and providing us with a safe repair method should we face the dreaded repair of a relay.:p

Regards Brad

Brad,

If you have a supply of genuine units at $50 each then I'd buy them without hesitation.
I've only found aftermarket (Indian) units locally for $110 and they are of dubious quality. Paddocks also have them for 30GBP but shipping would add quite a bit because of the weight.

Are the ones you've found genuine Land Rover or 'OEM quality' or 'from an OEM supplier' or 'made to OEM specification'. There seems to be a lot of sellers playing with their wording to imply that parts are genuine when they are not.

If they are genuine (ie. Land Rover parts) I'll take at least 5 at that price.

Colin

chazza

7th June 2013, 06:45 AM

OE units are available in Melbourne for $50.

In addition to Colin's reply I can add that the two relays I have reconditioned cost me $10 each to buy some quality seals.

The crap seals from Melbourne failed whilst standing still in a dark workshop :mad:

Cheers Charlie

isuzurover

7th June 2013, 11:14 AM

Brad,

If you have a supply of genuine units at $50 each then I'd buy them without hesitation.
I've only found aftermarket (Indian) units locally for $110 and they are of dubious quality. Paddocks also have them for 30GBP but shipping would add quite a bit because of the weight.

Are the ones you've found genuine Land Rover or 'OEM quality' or 'from an OEM supplier' or 'made to OEM specification'. There seems to be a lot of sellers playing with their wording to imply that parts are genuine when they are not.

If they are genuine (ie. Land Rover parts) I'll take at least 5 at that price.

Colin

On a related note, I know a couple of people who have twisted the shafts of aftermarket relays. One was only on 7.50s!

gromit

7th June 2013, 12:24 PM

On a related note, I know a couple of people who have twisted the shafts of aftermarket relays. One was only on 7.50s!

The comment on the LR Series website says it all "BEWARE REPLACEMENT SHAFTS"

562875 SHAFT FOR STEERING RELAY | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1349/562875-SHAFT-FOR-STEERING-RELAY.html'search=relay%20shaft&page=1)

Genuine shaft is 23.84 GBP

The cost of the overhaul was 2 seals, 2 washers, 2 gaskets plus the enjoyment of making a spring compressor tool and learning how to do the job.

Colin

mick88

9th June 2013, 12:13 PM

The cost of the overhaul was 2 seals, 2 washers, 2 gaskets plus the enjoyment of making a spring compressor tool and learning how to do the job.

Colin[/QUOTE]

Did the same here!
Prefer to know it's rebuilt with good quality seals/parts etc. and that way it should not have to come out again for a long time!

Cheers, Mick.

gromit

10th June 2013, 07:28 AM

No much time spent on Wallit this weekend so far.

I got a reply from Paddocks regarding the seatbelts. With the retractable lap belt if you fully extend it there is a label at the very end. Not an Australian/NZ standard this time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1154.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2437_zps82491e8b.jpg.html)

Some time ago the father-in-law gave me a lathe & milling machine because he was selling up to buy a motor home & travel round Australia. He then went out and got a small lathe/mill from Hare & Forbes.

I'd had a set of castings for a Stuart Turner 10V engine for many years and never got round to doing anything with them so I gifted them to the FIL.

He returned the 10V completed last week. He modified a few threads etc because he didn't have access to ME Taps but it was working.
I turned up an air fitting yesterday and got it running.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1155.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN2438_zps36ac6634.jpg.html)

He's off travelling at the moment but has a twin cylinder steam engine and boiler he's going to build next......

Colin

dolphint

10th June 2013, 07:49 AM

Colin, did you get to the steam rally last month? you'll be needing your own shed up there soon:D

gromit

10th June 2013, 05:34 PM

Colin, did you get to the steam rally last month? you'll be needing your own shed up there soon:D

Steve,

It's too far to travel otherwise a shed there would be a good idea. I didn't make it last month but plan to go to the next rally in November.

I went out with the family today and found another steam powered vehicle, any guesses ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1107.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF0538_zpsa5a4872a.jpg.html)

Colin

dolphint

12th June 2013, 10:45 PM

Not a Traction Engine:o:confused: Go on give me another pic!!

gromit

13th June 2013, 07:07 AM

Not a Traction Engine:o:confused: Go on give me another pic!!

Steve,

Here's the vehicle.......a Stanley Steamer

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/964.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF0537_zps1f3eb2c8.jpg.html)

Colin

gromit

13th June 2013, 05:20 PM

The DeLuxe seats turned up at work today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/956.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2445_zpsb241bf23.jpg.html)

First impressions.....like all Britpart items they look good but when you look a bit closer....
The backing is MDF, probably not a good idea in a Land Rover 'cos it's going to get wet at some point (I'll varnish or paint the exposed areas). There are no pins for mounting the seatbacks to the seatbox brackets, you probably have to put self tappers into the side !

I'll have a better look later if I'm allowed in the shed.
There's also other parts in the consignment that I need to 'book into stock'.

Colin

wrinklearthur

13th June 2013, 05:47 PM

Hi Colin

Could you show a picture of the other side of the seat bottoms?

Tell me, how is it you haven't the key to get into the shed ? :wasntme:
.

gromit

13th June 2013, 07:34 PM

Hi Colin

Could you show a picture of the other side of the seat bottoms?

Tell me, how is it you haven't the key to get into the shed ? :wasntme:
.

Arthur,

The seats are still in the back of the car, too wet to get them out (I don't want the MDF swelling up before I get them into the shed). I'll get some pictures when the rain stops.

I've got the key for the shed, it's whether I'm allowed to use it.
She was happy inside tonight, The Block was on. I watched some of it the other night but my comment "if I watch much more of this my brain will turn to mush" scored me minus 500 points......

I fitted the new brake master reservoir tonight. I had the option of genuine or 'aftermarket' I chose genuine because they have a very finite life so what would the pattern ones be like ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/950.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2448_zps5dbe99f7.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/951.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2450_zpsc7ccd727.jpg.html)

Can't wait to try out the LWB brakes in a shorty. They'll be much better than my Series I and at least the servo is now working so I'm sure even the previous owner would notice the difference.

One of the next jobs is de-skinning the passenger door and welding in a repair section.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/952.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2451_zps260c8542.jpg.html)

Colin

gromit

13th June 2013, 08:27 PM

Hi Colin

Could you show a picture of the other side of the seat bottoms?:wasntme:
.

Arthur,

Here's a picture of my bottom....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/947.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2455_zps51c90920.jpg.html)

Here is the back, lots of staples down low but the bit you see looks OK.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/948.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2456_zps35f57340.jpg.html)

I can feel a hole each side of the seat backs so I guess you might insert bolts to hold them in position ? I'll check with the supplier. I should also check the packaging which I left at work.

Colin

chazza

15th June 2013, 09:30 AM

The backing is MDF, probably not a good idea in a Land Rover 'cos it's going to get wet at some point (I'll varnish or paint the exposed areas).

Colin

Some MDF is heat and moisture resistant for use in kitchens, etc. It is a good idea of yours to seal it though,

Cheers Charlie

gromit

15th June 2013, 02:43 PM

Some MDF is heat and moisture resistant for use in kitchens, etc. It is a good idea of yours to seal it though,

Cheers Charlie

Charlie,

My thinking was that knowing **itpart it probably won't be moisture resistant. The two cross supports where the seat sits on the seatbox would need doing as a minimum. I did consider pulling all the staples and completely painting/sealing the base but because Wallit's a hardtop it shouldn't get too wet inside.

I replaced the vacuum hose from the pump on the back of the C240 alternator to the brake servo this morning. The old one was a length of what looked like garden hose joined to a red rubber tube (cracked when I bent it). I also got some hose to replace the heater hoses.

Also de skinned the door today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/908.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2461_zps1a5cfa94.jpg.html)

I have a repair section to replace the bottom of the door frame.
Then just a few minor dints to get out of the skin.

Colin

gromit

17th June 2013, 08:24 AM

I got a reply from both Britpart & LR Series regarding the DeLuxe seat mounting.

Turns out that you need 6 of these 331709 SHOULDERED BOLT SEAT SQUAB | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/608/331709-SHOULDERED-BOLT-SEAT-SQUAB.html)
Was this the 'norm' with DeLuxe seats ?

I'm not in a rush to fit the seats but it would have been nice to know that I needed the bolts before I ordered.

Found the Britpart catalogue while looking for their contact details.
Britpart Accessory Catalogue 2013 (http://www.bauercreate.co.uk/digitaleditions/britpart2013/britpart.html)

Colin

gromit

23rd June 2013, 05:37 PM

I've welded the door repair section into place.
The repair section length is enough for the bottom and a small section up each side. I neeed to tidy up the welds, fun trying to weld to rusty steel.

I fitted the master cylinder today and also a new flexi for the rear brakes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1233.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2466_zpsd8f5720d.jpg.html)

Started to bleed the system and got a leak from the master cylinder.
The tube nut on the rear brake pipe had stripped !
Managed to cut the end off, fit a new tube nut and flare in situ.

Finally bled the system with the help on No 2 son but had too much pedal travel.
Had all the wheels off and adjusted the brakes and improved things but there is still some air trapped in the system somewhere. Had to leave the job and cut the grass while it was dry. Next weekend I head off overseas on business for a week so I'm trying to get on top of all the chores.
New coil packs need to be sourced & fitted to the wife's Territory. New throttle pedal will have to wait (have to pull the pedal box to fit !).
Series 2 109 spares car will have to be collected on my return....

Colin

gromit

24th June 2013, 06:37 PM

One thing on the list done tonight, fitted new coil packs to the wife's Territory. When did distributors get designed out ? I'm out-of-touch with the modern stuff.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/230.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Territory/DSCN2470_zps1fa1b74b.jpg.html)

Found the coil packs on ebay then contacted the guy direct. Cost saving plus I could collect straight away.
Next it needs an inlet manifold gasket then I might be able to get back onto Wallit.

Colin

gromit

2nd July 2013, 10:39 PM

I didn't get anything done on Wallit at the weekend. Instead I started to change the inlet manifold gasket on the wife's Territory.....I wish I hadn't taken the job on.
Almost impossible to do with the motor in the vehicle. Airbox out, take off the top half of the plenum chamber (after buying some allen key sockets) then realise it's almost impossible to get to some of the bolts.
Manifold can move maybe 15mm away from the head so removed broken gasket then spent ages confirming that all pieces had been removed. New gasket twisted & slid into position..... Then struggle to get one of the bolts back in, lying on the top of the motor hand wedged down the back with a ring spanner that can rotate maybe 1/12 of a turn at a time !!

Anyway, I'm in Italy at the moment on 'business'. Just having a couple of days sight seeing before a 2-day meeting.
Lake Garda yesterday. Desenzano, a ferry trip then a walk round Sirmione. Today I visited Verona.
So far I've seen many, many Range Rover Sports, a couple of Freelanders, an Evoque and today an early Disco (with the clear coat peeling off the bonnet) and what looked like a military 90" (is there a SWB Massif ?). OK maybe it was one of these http://www.powerful-cars.com/php/iveco/2007-massif-1.php?p=imperial

Colin

bell1975

8th July 2013, 10:45 PM

Then struggle to get one of the bolts back in, lying on the top of the motor hand wedged down the back with a ring spanner that can rotate maybe 1/12 of a turn at a time !!
That's a bit like the Td5...how bizarre.

Anyway, I'm in Italy at the moment on 'business'. Just having a couple of days sight seeing before a 2-day meeting.
Lake Garda yesterday. Desenzano, a ferry trip then a walk round Sirmione. Today I visited Verona.
So far I've seen many, many Range Rover Sports, a couple of Freelanders, an Evoque and today an early Disco (with the clear coat peeling off the bonnet) and what looked like a military 90" (is there a SWB Massif ?). OK maybe it was one of these iveco 2007 massif 1 - the history of cars - exotic cars - customs - hot rods - classic cars - vintage cars - (http://www.powerful-cars.com/php/iveco/2007-massif-1.php?p=imperial)

Colin

Have a quattro formaggio pizza for me...it doesn't get better than that in the way of artery blocking tucker IMO. My wife and I loved Italy, climbing in the Dolomites mainly but some travel through more populous areas. Maddening traffic.

Safe travels.

gromit

10th July 2013, 07:01 PM

Still getting over jet-lag and need to get back onto Wallit. Problem is I need to chase up a guy I've been talking to about a SII 109" that will provide most of the spares I need for my SII.
I'll then need to focus on getting it parted out fairly quickly or my life won't be worth living.

There's also the chap with 6 Land Rovers up on the VIC/NSW border I need to follow up and the SIII that I need the wheels from.

Colin

dolphint

10th July 2013, 10:17 PM

gromit

11th July 2013, 07:15 AM

Welcome back Colin, I'll look for those Shocks this w/end

Thanks Steve,
I haven't done much on the FFR but it's started & moved around regularly. I did manage to get radio tables for it at Corowa.
Your old 2aGS is also in the same situation, started & moved but no work done on it for a while. In fact I need to overhaul the original axles and fit them. I still haven't checked through all the parts in the back yet......

Too many projects and too little time.

Colin

wrinklearthur

11th July 2013, 08:31 AM

Too many projects and too little time.

Hi Colin

Back home again I see, hope you had a pleasant trip and what are the people on the other side of the world up to?

Amen to "Too many projects and too little time".
.

gromit

11th July 2013, 05:41 PM

Hi Colin

Back home again I see, hope you had a pleasant trip and what are the people on the other side of the world up to?

Amen to "Too many projects and too little time".
.

Arthur,

I met MD's from countries around the World. Seems that most economies are more bouyant than ours.....can't wait for the election.
Interesting to hear that our economy is being reported as doing well in the Chinese press, maybe they were promoting sales of our housing & farmland ?

Weather was in the 30's, a bit of shock arriving back at Melborne airport Sunday night.

Colin

gromit

15th July 2013, 07:41 AM

At last, managed to get some time on Wallit this weekend.

The door repair section welds were ground back and it doesn't look too bad. I'm considering tipping some paint inside the door channels and coating the inside to try and slow down any further rusting. I need to source some paint and wait for the weather to improve, then I can paint the frame before re-assembly.

In one of the last deliveries the special small headed bolts for the steering relay arrived so I replaced the non-standard cap heads and I'll either use the relay on Wallit or it can be a spare.
I haven't checked Wallit's relay but that along with checking and re-greasing all the steering joints & replacing boots is next on the list. I've found another supplier of boots at a reasonable price, they are tight at the pin end (no garter spring needed) and made of chloroprene rubber which is UV resistant so shouldn't decompose like some of the Indian boots I've previously purchased.

Won't get back onto Wallit until next weekend, Country trip this week. Mildura tomorrow then working my way back down to Melbourne.

gromit

19th July 2013, 11:44 AM

I had a look at 6 Land Rovers in NSW (not far from Swan Hill) while I was on a 'business trip' this week.
4 Series I's (one 80", two 86" and one 88") and an FFR and a SIII 109.
The 88" was complete and had hood bows (canopy poor). The 80" had a later motor, one 86" had a Holden motor and the other had no motor. The FFR had the motor removed and the front crossmember had been modified, engine was there and tatty canopy & bows. The SIII 109 was very straight but no motor or hardtop/soft top, apparently the gentleman who owns it got it from a panel beater when the original owner defaulted on payment. It came with a big diesel motor fitted but the current owner has a use for it.
All but the 88" were outside in the weather with bits strewn around on the dirt as they had donated parts.

The only problem is the cost of shipping this lot home would be more than the price that's being asked. I have a mate that could store them just outside Wangaratta but it would still cost a fair bit to transport them. Then there's the cost of the divorce when SWMBO finds out.......

Still having a think about what to do.
I'd like the 80" and the 88" but the owner wants them sold as a package.

Colin

chazza

19th July 2013, 04:34 PM

Sometimes cobber, we just have to say no :(

However; you might find 5 fellow lunatics who can take some of them off your hands :D

Cheers Charlie

wrinklearthur

19th July 2013, 05:40 PM

you might find 5 fellow lunatics who can take some of them off your hands
.
Like me, ---- like me, ----- like me! :arms:

.

gromit

20th July 2013, 09:30 AM

A couple of them really were just parts cars, I might speak to the owner about just getting the 88" then I can pass his details on if anyone is interested in the others.
There was also an ex army Acco there but not sure if he would sell it. Maybe put the 88" on the back of the Acco and drive it home ?

The FFR would be a reasonable buy because everything was there but with the motor pulled out and everything sitting outside for some years it might need some work.

I have a Series 2 to collect soon (just waiting for the owner to extract it from down the back of his property) so will have to think long & hard about these ones.

Colin

gromit

21st July 2013, 03:32 PM

Took the steering rods off today (drag link, track rod etc.) along with the steering damper.
All the ball joints are OK so I removed the knackered boots, cleaned the joint and then covered in masking tape. De-rusted the rods & steering damper with a rotary wire brush.

A couple of holes appeared in the damper cover (water must sit inside). The damper also has a couple of dints but seems OK so I'll paint it and use it for the time being. The outer cover is mainly to protect the shaft.

Picture below doesn't make the paint job look great. The damper was sprayed and the rest brush painted, second coat tomorrow.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/505.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2564_zps7c78b50b.jpg.html)

Then I'll grease & fit new boots and re-fit.

Colin

gromit

23rd July 2013, 06:31 PM

New 'boots' fitted tonight.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/376.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2575_zps410bb299.jpg.html)

As previously mentioned these are Chloprene Rubber which should outlast the Indian rubbish I've previously purchased.
I'm paying trade price, the 'gentleman' I opened the account with made the comment "If I catch you selling these on Ebay I'll chop your legs off".....They also supply complete track rod ends and suspension parts for modern vehicles, all parts made in Taiwan.

The new boots only have a garter spring for the larger end. They are tight at the small end but have a groove for a garter spring if you want to fit one.
The old boots that came off had spring clips instead of garter springs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/377.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2576_zps6c7ecaf2.jpg.html)

I fitted new nuts to the TRE's and will source new bolts for the clamps. All reasonably cheap from the local bolt company.
Interesting that the threads are Metric, 3 were M12 Metric fine and 1 was coarse. I guess they have to turn the correct thread to fit the track rod but where a nut is used they go to the nearest metric size.

Colin

gromit

5th August 2013, 12:00 PM

Another couple of weekends pass by without any real work being done on Wallit.
What with the weather (I have to work on Wallit outside) , dark evenings/work commitments (I don't have the enthusiasm by the time I get home) and other chores I have to do Wallit is a long way down the list. Last week it was the pump for the septic system failed, the outlet pit & sand filter were full. Replacement pump in stock so wasn't too big a job. This week it was the weather again, pottered around doing a couple of small jobs but I really need to get the wings off (for panel beating) and the front panel off (for repainting & radiator replacement).

I did charge all the Land Rover batteries and start the FFR so I could move it out of the way.

I've had Wallit for over a year now, I need to get the last big jobs done and then look at Club Rego.

Colin

gromit

11th August 2013, 05:36 PM

Put the steering damper back on Wallit today. I can't wait for a bit more daylight in the evenings so I can get stuck into the panel work needed.

I have to sort out some panel beating hammers & dollies. I picked up a new Sykes Pickavant shrinking hammer at a trash & treasure for $10 recently and I have a cheapo set but I'm going to look for something a bit better. I also need to investigate an oxy acetylene set because there are a lot of cracks & a few holes in panels that need to be dealt with.

A weekend of cutting grass, washing cars, fixing things the kids have broken (slats on the bunk-bed I made a couple of years ago) and a few minutes spent on Wallit.
I did start the SII 109 and spin up the rear PTO to throw some oil around. I should really take the PTO & shaft off and stick them in the shed in the dry.
I also got the Defender out, washed it and took a couple of the kids for a drive

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/903.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Defender%20Tanami/DSCN2596_zpsbe2bd53a.jpg.html)

Colin

gromit

18th August 2013, 03:57 PM

Started & ran Wallit yesterday but had a few branches etc. to clean up around the property after the high winds so didn't get much work done.
I did sort out all the new spares in the boot and move some of them inside.

Had a look at a Series 2a 109" today in Rye.
The gentleman wants $300 but it's a spares vehicle only.
Holden motor (was 6-cyl so no crossmember butchery), rotten bulkhead, non-STD rear crossmember with no PTO hole (nice job done installing it though).
The bottom of one wheel rim has dissappeared (owner recons dog pi55 is the problem) door tops flapping in the wind, springs flat, inside full of junk (which the owner has to clear out).

By the time you take into account trailer hire, fuel, the steep narrow driveway it needs hauling up to get it out....... I have a picture if anyone is interested.

Colin

reachjatt

18th August 2013, 08:22 PM

gromit

18th August 2013, 08:27 PM

Hi Colin,

Are you able to forward picture's. I am looking for some front panel's for my series II:)

Many thanks,
Nav

He wants it removed and not stripped where it is.
The wings have been modified, it has bug eyed headlamps and a Series III grille.

I'll add a photo tomorrow.

Colin

reachjatt

18th August 2013, 08:57 PM

Many Thanks Colin

gromit

19th August 2013, 07:18 AM

If it wasn't for the fact that you'd have to spend time freeing off the brakes, the trailer hire & driveway problems I'd probably consider getting it and parting it out.
Owner claims it's still registered ! Looks like it's been there a while.
It's worse than it looks in the photo.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1135.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/7c51899e-de99-48e8-8116-1c0dc045ed08_zps5af4ed61.jpg.html)

Colin

reachjatt

19th August 2013, 08:54 PM

It's worse than it looks in the photo.
Colin

Now that's not usually case i mean pic's are normally good than real thing. Anyways thanks for putting up the pic Colin.

Found another one on the gumtree. Looks great but my dilemma is i won't be using too many parts out of this..

1971 Land Rover (4X4) Wagon | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Murrindindi Area - Kinglake West | 1025482248 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kinglake-west/cars-vans-utes/1971-land-rover-4x4-wagon/1025482248)

gromit

20th August 2013, 06:26 AM

Problem is you end up with bits left over, can't find the time to part it out, nobody wants to pay a fair price for the parts, the wife complains about the mess on the driveway (or is that just me).
I had a Series I where everyone said "don't scrap the chassis !", I threatened to cut it up for about a year then finally gave it away.

I need some outer front wing panels (or whole front wings) for Gromit. People are asking more for the wings than I would pay for a parts car (but then I wouldn't have the problem of towing it home, parting it out etc.etc.).

Decisions, decisions.......

Colin

gromit

23rd August 2013, 11:50 AM

I managed to pick up a set of panel beating tools from a retired panel beater during the week.
Hammers, dollies, a flipper and a few more items he'd acquired over the years. Some good brands like Sykes Pickavant, Dowidat etc.
A lot of them needed a clean & polish but with the rain in Victoria lately I haven't been able to work outside on Wallit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/439.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCN2607_zpsa86b5e34.jpg.html)

Colin

dolphint

24th August 2013, 09:55 AM

gromit

24th August 2013, 10:06 AM

Good Pickup mate:)

Steve,
I just have to learn how to use them now....

Colin

wrinklearthur

24th August 2013, 10:13 AM

I managed to pick up a set of panel beating tools from a retired panel beater ----
These items are of religious significance, to be placed on an alter with a burning candle on either side as the alter boy strikes the gong.

Wearing flowing white robes you shall kneel down and utter the words, " In remembrance of a higher order, the ethic of actual work ".

Good find, but go easy on the red wine.
.

gromit

26th August 2013, 02:27 PM

I actually have an 'alter' to go and look at Arthur.....

I've been offered an English Wheel !!

It's fabricated not cast, the owner made one and has hand made two aluminium bodied cars using it. He made a second frame and it just needs a set of wheels made (sounds like a task for our machinist at work).

Do I need one........ probably not.
Do I want one.........what do you think !
Will SWMBO be happy if I buy one......lets not go there.

Colin

wrinklearthur

26th August 2013, 07:59 PM

Spell checker has done it to me again!!!!! :wallbash:

But then I don't think it's necessary to 'alter' it as it probably works better that way instead of fixing 'a' mistake.

Now where is my red wine?
.

gromit

31st August 2013, 07:33 AM

Received a blow yesterday.

I was taking over as MD of a company at the end of this year. The retiring MD decided he wanted to stay for a few more years and through the parent company got my current position retrenched.
This is a person who was a friend, who I have defended, backed up, promoted, stood up for etc. etc

I have 5 kids and a good few years before retirement, he has moved to a retirement village and was set to retire. I'm still trying to understand his motives (apart from greed bacause he's on a bloody good salary)

Anyway, 5 weeks 'garden leave' then I get paid out.
I do have an interview with a competitor on Monday, it was a bit of a knee jerk reaction but I have to pay the bills.

On the plus side, 5 weeks paid to work on Land Rovers:)

Colin

mick88

1st September 2013, 11:31 AM

Not a good situation!
Best of luck with your interview tomorrow.

Cheers, Mick.

gromit

1st September 2013, 06:46 PM

Not a good situation!
Best of luck with your interview tomorrow.

Cheers, Mick.

Thanks Mick,

I have to be careful because I'm on full pay for 5 weeks serving notice. If the offer is good enough I might consider starting earlier although I'm looking forward to 5 weeks with a whole lot less stress.

Colin

gromit

3rd September 2013, 04:39 PM

Interview went well plus there are another couple of offers. looks like I need to make the most of the 5 week break.

I haven't started on Wallit yet, I've been gardening and decided to work on a rocking horse for my youngest daughter. I started it a couple of years ago but it got sidelined.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1614.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF0714_zps0a50ab99.jpg.html)

Once the carving is finished it has to have many coats of Gesso, then paint then you need to make the harness & saddle and add the mane & tail.
The stand for it was finished some time ago.

Colin

Lionelgee

4th September 2013, 12:38 PM

gromit

4th September 2013, 09:54 PM

G'day Colin,

Great craftsmanship on the horse Colin! By carving do you mean 100% mallet/maul and chisel or did you use one of those "Arbro" or similar sounding name of a disk that goes on a 4 inch angle grinder for roughing out first?

I have seen the disks and always wondered if they were any good? When the first came out they were poisonously expensive so it put me off getting one.

Don't rush back into work if you can possibly avoid it. Remember it will be 12 months before you can get holidays again. :eek:

Kind Regards
Lionel

Lionel,

All done with a mallet & chisels.
I'm in a local woodwork club and on Wednesday nights there is a group of us that make rocking horses.
Everyone else uses various cutting/sanding discs on a angle grinder, clouds of dust, noise etc. I always wanted to make a traditional horse using traditional methods.
Taught myself carving, cheap chisels followed by some better quality ones. I researched traditional Gesso (rabbit skin glue & chalk), sourced a double boiler and the first two horses had about 20 coats of Gesso applied. Oil based paint applied by brush, dappled by brush, leather harness sewed by hand, cow tail (on skin) for the mane & tail.
If you had to make a living at it you'd need to charge $5 -6K or cut a lot of corners.

This one needs finishing off. It got too big to get into the car to go down to the club. It is painted grey but needs dappling.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/411.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/bowrocker2_zpsb15f8c4a.jpg.html)

Most of the people make the traditional type on a 'safety stand'. I did one of these first then the bow rocker above and currently working on a Jubilee Rocker.

Here is my first.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/409.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF8780_zpsef08cb2e.jpg.html)

I'm enjoying the time off but have to knuckle down and do a business plan to follow up the interview earlier in the week. Hopefully back employed before too long.

Colin

gromit

9th September 2013, 02:31 PM

The horse is nearly ready to start applying Gesso then painting so I decided after fixing the fence and a few other chores SWMBO wanted done I'd work on Wallit.

The horn doesn't work, probably because it stood outside for 3 years waiting for me to come along there have been a lot of problems with corroded electrical connections.
Removed horn and connected across a battery, OK but a bit quiet.
Tried in situ, no earth, removed the screw and found it rusted. Replaced and still nothing. cleaned up the Lucar connectors and pinched them tight, still nothing. Multimeter clipped into the two wires and 12Volts OK when the button pushed.
Still the horn wouldn't work but I noticed that the connections were hot. Remade the earth lead, still nothing. Multimeter back in and..... nothing.
Turns out that the indicator/horn button assembly had died, luckily a new one was supplied with Wallit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1304.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%203%20Isuzu%20C240/DSCN2617_zpsccace1c2.jpg.html)

About an hour chasing an elusive problem, found out what it was and now more work.....must fix the ignition switch as well while the cowling is off the steering column.

Colin

wrinklearthur

10th September 2013, 08:07 PM

My Missus saw that FB has spilt the beans.

Congratulations! hope it all works out for the better.
.

gromit

11th September 2013, 05:58 AM

My Missus saw that FB has spilt the beans.

Congratulations! hope it all works out for the better.
.

Thanks Arthur,

I start a new job in a couple of weeks in direct competition to the company that retrenched me, let the battle begin......

I've finished carving the rocking horse and just need to find my double boiler to get the Gesso brewing. It looks a bit 'bare' without paint, saddle, harness, mane and tail. Lets hope it doesn't get sidelined for another few years once I get back to work......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1169.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Stuff/DSCF0727_zps833bbfe0.jpg.html)

The feet are padded because when it gets lifted off the stand it rests on it's feet which were getting damaged. I've had to make a box for it to sit on while I Gesso & paint it.

Colin