View Full Version : inline Fuel Pump TD6
harlie
5th July 2012, 12:02 PM
I've quoted from another thread because this was off topic. Start new thread so it can be found...
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I had an issue last night where the car wouldn't start - it would crank, but not fire - I had to leave it overnight at work - it started first time this morning though!
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Just a quick follow-up on the non-starting issue - it was the inline fuel pump failing....tank was less than 1/4 full......replaced with one from Poland from ebay ($85 incl postage), and all is well.
Fraser, Any chance you have a link to the cheap fuel pump?
This morning went to start Rangie in the garage, spins nicely but no attempt to fire. Tank is nearly empty (light must be nearly on). Ran perfectly yesterday.
Read faults. I have – Low side fuel pressure sensor plausible ....... insufficient for cranking (or something to that effect). Reading this experience a bung inline fuel pump? Change filter as well?
Also have a Fan Clutch fault but that can wait.
fraser130
6th July 2012, 07:57 AM
I've quoted from another thread because this was off topic. Start new thread so it can be found...
Fraser, Any chance you have a link to the cheap fuel pump?
This morning went to start Rangie in the garage, spins nicely but no attempt to fire. Tank is nearly empty (light must be nearly on). Ran perfectly yesterday.
Read faults. I have – Low side fuel pressure sensor plausible ....... insufficient for cranking (or something to that effect). Reading this experience a bung inline fuel pump? Change filter as well?
Also have a Fan Clutch fault but that can wait.
Harlie, This (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170781469085'ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) was the one, item #170781469085.
I have since let it run low, and it has started fine, but I am expecting to have to change the in-tank pump too, but will get around to it a bit later, as it is needed to transfer fuel from one side to the main pick-up side. I'm thinking maybe the non-return valve in the old in-line pump may have been allowing leak-back, and it would then be trying to pump air (which they can't do) I have ordered a replacement pump for the tank and am awaiting it's arrival (it was US$115 from memory)...will keep you posted
Cheers,
Fraser
PS. What fan has a clutch Harlie?
I need a new Auxilliary Fan for mine before summer for the aircon, am trying to source just a motor from the US as the original ones are insanely priced!
harlie
6th July 2012, 09:13 AM
Ordered - Thanks mate.
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PS. What fan has a clutch Harlie?
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hahaha beats me. engine ecu has 3 faults. 2 about low side fuel pressure and 3rd, something about Fan Clutch Open circuit :D.
harlie
21st July 2012, 06:55 PM
Just an FYI follow-up
Replaced the inline fuel pump and the car started straight up. All faults gone.
Daniel
30th July 2012, 10:03 AM
Cheers,
Fraser
PS. What fan has a clutch Harlie?
The radiator fan.
Homestar
30th July 2012, 02:58 PM
The radiator fan.
I thought that was just a viscous unit? There is an electric fan as well, but I'm not sure if this is for engine cooling or for the AC condenser.
RangieBit
30th July 2012, 07:25 PM
Yes, Gav the main engine fan is a viscous unit.
That's an electrically operated unit that changes the viscosity of the fluid and acts just like a clutch to engage and disengage the fan. It's more than just a simple temp reactive fluid these days.
It relies on inputs from the engine ECU regarding air temp, engine temp, vehicle speed, engine speed and probably a whole bunch more inputs as well. It (ECU) then decides whether to trigger the fan clutch or not.
The electrically powered fan(s) is/are for airflow through the AC condenser system.
Clear as mud? Yep, it was for me too initially. There's a fairly good writeup in RAVE, from my ailing memory.
Anyway this thread was about the inline pump (and related errors). Sorry for the brief hijack.
Cheers,
Iain
Homestar
30th July 2012, 07:40 PM
Thanks for that - I don't suppose you know why it has a mind of its own do you? Sometimes it stays on all the time, even first thing in the morning, it only seems to go off once every few weeks for a few days, then back to its old self. PITA as it makes a heap of noise, and buggers the fuel economy up by nearly 1L/100.
RangieBit
30th July 2012, 07:56 PM
Nope, Sorry Gav, I can't explain why yours seem to be that stroppy.
Mine's a little sporadic. I do notice it kicks in just after start but then seems to disengage after a minute or so. Particularly on these chill mornings/days. Nowhere near as badly as your unit seems to be though.
I don't think these things were ever really able to cope with our very hot climate. They seem to run continuously in anything over 25deg ambient temp.
Which in the UK or northern Europe would probably only be for about for one month out of twelve. Not sure the programming is really up to scratch particularly for the earlier model years. Nor perhaps the viscous fan hardware itself.
Daniel
30th July 2012, 08:16 PM
Thanks for that - I don't suppose you know why it has a mind of its own do you? Sometimes it stays on all the time, even first thing in the morning, it only seems to go off once every few weeks for a few days, then back to its old self. PITA as it makes a heap of noise, and buggers the fuel economy up by nearly 1L/100.
My Hawkeye tool can diagnose fan error codes in the EMS ECU and from memory also gives real time info on when the fan is engaged/disengaged when the "live data" menu is selected. You may need to do some diagnosis to ascertain what is going on with your truck. It makes sense that the fan is engaged at first start as that is factory programmed to dry the engine bay out.
I can hear my fan cut in at a particular spot when climbing our 10 km hill on the way home. Interestingly almost all cars I have owned engage their viscous fans at around the same spot.
harlie
31st July 2012, 10:15 AM
Yes, Gav the main engine fan is a viscous unit.
That's an electrically operated unit that changes the viscosity of the fluid and acts just like a clutch to engage and disengage the fan. It's more than just a simple temp reactive fluid these days.
It relies on inputs from the engine ECU regarding air temp, engine temp, vehicle speed, engine speed and probably a whole bunch more inputs as well. It (ECU) then decides whether to trigger the fan clutch or not.
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I thought this was the case! There is thread on here stating the opposite…
Fan on mine runs for a couple mins on startup then drops off. Runs in slow heavy traffic or when its hot (makes sense) and runs whenever the AC is on no matter what engine temp is or ambient temp is – turn the AC off when all is cool and the fan drops out about 20 sec latter. There is too much going on for it to be simply temp related.
Maybe I need to follow up the fan Clutch fault that was present.
Grover-98
26th August 2013, 08:15 PM
Hello all!
I have suffered the same problem with my inline fuel pump the Range Rover will crank but wont start and all things lead to the inline fuel pump.
I have done a search and it would appear the following link is the correct part but would anyone on here be able to confirm this will fit my L322 Td6 i have spoken with a Land Rover mechanic and he said it is the same as the Freelander pumps... however he wants $498 for one!
Thanks guys!
BMW Diesel Pump IN Line E46 E38 E39 X5 Opel Omega Land Rover 16117165590 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/170781469085?item=170781469085&viewitem=&vxp=mtr)
fraser130
26th August 2013, 08:17 PM
Hello all!
I have suffered the same problem with my inline fuel pump the Range Rover will crank but wont start and all things lead to the inline fuel pump.
I have done a search and it would appear the following link is the correct part but would anyone on here be able to confirm this will fit my L322 Td6 i have spoken with a Land Rover mechanic and he said it is the same as the Freelander pumps... however he wants $498 for one!
Thanks guys!
BMW Diesel Pump IN Line E46 E38 E39 X5 Opel Omega Land Rover 16117165590 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/170781469085?item=170781469085&viewitem=&vxp=mtr)
Yup, that's one of them!
harlie
27th August 2013, 06:45 AM
Grover, get a couple of small clamps. Once you can get under the car, it's a simple 5 min job but I found I needed new hose clamps, which I didn't have. Took me longer to go get clamps than I spent working on the car.
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