Coolants for older engines

[gromit]

Following on from a thread in 'Technical'.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/153714-demineralised-distilled-radiator.html

A lot of coolant manufacturers do not state what corrosion pack they use in their coolant so you have to speak to their technical dept. to find out which is suitable for older engines.
There have been problems reported using OAT type (long life) coolants in some older engines so you should be aware of what corrosion pack is used. OAT may damage solder and gaskets & sealants using silicon.

I'm no expert but there are IAT (Inorganic Acid Technology), OAT (Organic Acid technology) & HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) corrosion packs. It's confusing, especially when the manufacturer states 'suitable for older engines', which they mean to be maybe 10 years old not the 50+ years of some of our Land Rovers.
IAT is the old, traditional corrosion pack used for many years.

Nulon have just informed me that the Dr Cool is suitable for older engines and uses an IAT corrosion pack Dr Cool Concentrated Coolant- Nulon Australia (http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Cooling_Systems/Dr_Cool_Concentrated_Coolant/#.UANFiJFvCZQ)
I await replies from other suppliers.

As already mentioned, I'm no expert but by reading what's out there I've come to the conclusion that I should be looking for an IAT based coolant for my Series Land Rovers mixed with demineralised or rain water.

Hope this helps,

Colin

[drifter]

Appreciate the info and look forward to further discussion/consensus on this. It's something I have wondered about.

[gromit]

Valvoline don't have an IAT coolant in Australia, they have a HOAT that "can be run in some older engines" problem is whether the Landy is one of the "older engines" they refer to.

Nulon list a 2 year shelf-life for Dr Cool. They are not saying it won't work but it's difficult for them to give a "guaranteed performance" after that date. I wonder how they would prove it's manufacture date if you had a problem after a year. I don't keep the empty bottle or the receipt (but maybe I should). I've asked whether there is a date code on the container, I await the reply.

Awaiting a reply from Castrol still.

Any other coolant suppliers I should try ?


Colin

[Blknight.aus]

I use the standard green tectaloy coolant available from kmart, supercheap most servos, repco, autobahn and truck stops everywhere.

[gromit]

I use the standard green tectaloy coolant available from kmart, supercheap most servos, repco, autobahn and truck stops everywhere.

The thing is does it use IAT, OAT, HOAT or some other corrosion pack.

I've just emailed Tectalloy and also Shell so more info as I get responses.


Colin

[gromit]

Castrol Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil is HAT (Hybrid Additive Technology) . I mentioned to them that I'd been using this in my old vehicles and the reply was that "if I had been operating trouble free then I should continue to use the same product".
I might send another enquiry from another email address asking for their recommendation for a 50+ year old vehicle.

Shell replied but recommended an OAT or a long life (no details of the corrosion pack) so I've gone back to them for further information because I'm not keen on using OAT and specifically asked for IAT.

Just been browsing the net again :-
Tectalloy Extra Cool needs to be replaced every year.
Tectalloy Extra Cool Gold lists only a Km replacement (60,000 if tap water used and 100,000 if demineralised water used). It's a second generation OAT.

As a 'rule of thumb' it seems that if the coolant needs replacing every 2 years or less then it's probably IAT or maybe HAT.
Ethylene Glycol raises the boiling point and lowers the freezing point of the coolant but may not be needed if it's not originally specified. Apparently it helps deal with local hot spots within the engine where the temperature may get above 100C. A corrosion inhibitor added to distilled/demineralised/soft water may be OK for Series Land Rovers.

The more I look into this the more confusing it gets, especially when the 'Technical Support' for the companies don't give straightforward answers.
It's going to end up like a discussion on oils where everyone has their own preference because of what they believe.....


Colin

[gromit]

Interesting reply from Shell who state that their OAT & HAT coolants are OK for older vehicles

"Yes, Shell do sell coolants suitable for older vehicles.
We assume that IAT is inorganic additive technology, more commonly known as CAT - conventional additive technology.
Our product, HD Coolant N Pre-Diluted, is such a product.
I have attached a TDS for your information.
However, our HAT (hybrid additive technology) and OAT (organic additive technology) products are also suitable for older vehicles.
In the distant past, incorrectly formulated HAT and OAT products could sometimes cause seal and solder issues.
Our Shell products, LongLife OAT (OAT), MultiVehicle Antifreeze Coolant (HAT) and HD Premium N Antifreeze Coolant (HAT) have never shown any issues with solder and seals.
Hope this helps."

It seems that the OAT, HOAT (HAT) problems were in the past and most coolants should now be compatible.

Being a creature of habit it looks like I'll be staying with the Castrol Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil and put up with the 2 year replacement. Autobarn have 20% off for RACV members this month so I'd better stock up.

Hope this helps.


Colin

[gromit]

Now I'm confused .....

Tectalloy replied
" You are correct an in-organic / conventional style coolant is much better suited to older vehicles.
We have three products in the Tectaloy range that meet this criteria.

Tectaloy 60 Plus is a pre-mixed ready to use conventional style coolant. Formulated for general purpose use and is designed to meet the demands of normal passenger vehicles under light to normal driving conditions.

Tectaloy 90 Plus is a pre-mixed, 33% anti-freeze anti-boil ready to use conventional style. Suitable for passenger vehicles requiring anti-freeze anti-boil protection, and those vehicles put under increased loads e.g. towing

Tectaloy Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil is a conventional style concentrate, that can be blended between 25% - 50%. Suitable for passenger vehicles requiring anti-freeze anti-boil protection, and those vehicles put under increased loads e.g. towing "



Different answers from different companies.


Colin

[landrover dave]

You dont need antifreeze here in Aus unless you are going to park your car in alpine areas for more than 1 night. Antifreeze, ethylene glycol, is sugar based, and will turn corrosive in the wrong concentrate. It also crystalizes over time, depositing an insulating layer iside your radiator. A 5% loss of flow caused by this layer can cause your cooling efficency by around 20%!
All you need is a good quality corrosion inhibitor. We use the Tectalloy OAT coolant at work and have never had a problem.

[gromit]

From my limited research the ethylene glycol based coolant is recomended for some engines where they have local hotspots as it boils at a much higher temperature. Early Series Land Rovers wouldn't have had ethylene glycol recommended originally.
If you run it at the wrong mixture you are likely to cause corroson problems because the anti-corrosion pack will only give protection if the coolant mixture is used at the correct ratio. My Defender has used it for over 12 years with no problems.
Using ethylene glycol based coolants at the correct mixture is only likeley to cause a very small extra amount of lightening of your wallet.

Some coolant manufacturers are not recommending OAT type anti-corrosion additives in older vehicles, some are. It seems there were some serious problems with OAT damaging gaskets, sealants & solder in older vehicles. Some manufacturers are listing 'second generation OAT' which maybe highlights that there was a problem but they have now resolved it.

Tectalloy's technical dept. stated that an in-organic (traditional) anti-corrosion pack is better suited to older vehicles.

Colin

[landrover dave]

What I posted about coolants was learnt from a radiator specialist! Why would you want a coolant that raises the boiling point to arount 125C! By the time your motor overheats the damage is done! I have never heard of a motor that has local hotspots, thats what design engineers are employed for!
Take your radiator to a reputable radiator repairer and get them to dismantle and clean it. Then ask them how blocked it is! The only way to remove the crystalized glycol is to poke a rod down each tube!
Not all coolant manufacturers make coolant without glycol, they are of course going to tell you their product is good!
And my teacher at tradeschool taught me that


From my limited research the ethylene glycol based coolant is recomended for some engines where they have local hotspots as it boils at a much hi
gher temperature. Early Series Land Rovers wouldn't have had ethylene glycol recommended originally.
If you run it at the wrong mixture you are likely to cause corroson problems because the anti-corrosion pack will only give protection if the coolant mixture is used at the correct ratio. My Defender has used it for over 12 years with no problems.
Using ethylene glycol based coolants at the correct mixture is only likeley to cause a very small extra amount of lightening of your wallet.

Some coolant manufacturers are not recommending OAT type anti-corrosion additives in older vehicles, some are. It seems there were some serious problems with OAT damaging gaskets, sealants & solder in older vehicles. Some manufacturers are listing 'second generation OAT' which maybe highlights that there was a problem but they have now resolved it.

Tectalloy's technical dept. stated that an in-organic (traditional) anti-corrosion pack is better suited to older vehicles.

Colin

[DeanoH]

................... Why would you want a coolant that raises the boiling point to arount 125C!..............................
It's not the coolant that raises the boiling point to 125 degrees C its the pressurisation of the cooling system. At normal atmospheric pressure water boils at 100 degrees C. As pressure increases so does the boiling point.

In my old series LR with its 4 lb system this was increased to 107 degrees C. In my Defender with its 15 lb radiator cap the boiling point is increased to 120 degrees C.

This is why it's a bad idea to remove a radiator cap from a hot engine. Instant decrease in pressure causes 100 degrees + water to instantly turn to steam.

Wouldn't go to the snow on a free ticket so don't need anti freeze and don't trust OAT coolant not to stuff a perfectly good older engine, regardless of manufacturers claims that their coolant is compatible. Google Dexron coolant for the reasons why. Though I would trust OAT coolant in a system specifically designed for it.

A clean cooling system that's flushed annually and filled with clean water with a good corrosion inhibitor has always worked for me. I have used RMI 25 cooling system treatment for many years and it works for me.

Never quite worked out why people want to put anti freeze in their cooling systems when they are in a country where (in most places) it never freezes.

Deano :)

[landrover dave]

You are correct in saying pressurising raises the boiling point, but ethylene glycol has a higher boiling point than water! A i6lb cooling system boils at around 112C at sea level, add glycol and that temp raises to about 122C! Glycol has a higher boiling point than water.

[DeanoH]

As far as I can see the only benefit of running a glycol mixture is that if system pressurisation was to fail a higher than 100 degrees C boiling point in the coolant would be retained. This could be beneficial in the case of cooling system damage when running with the radiator cap loose. But apart from this no real benefit that I can see.

Modern vehicles run cooling systems at reasonably high pressures (greater than 20 psi) which gives a boiling point of around 126 degrees C or greater, my old Defender at 15 psi gives me 120 degrees C. Why do I need a glycol solution ? (apart from the reason above).

It may be that a glycol solution has greater thermal efficiency in that it can move heat more efficiently, I don't know. But then the rest of the system would need to be dimensioned for this as well.

But really, what is too hot ? At what temp is engine damage / component failure likely to occur ? It doesn't strike me as a very good idea to be driving with an engine temp of 120 degrees C +. If it gets to 100 degrees C I reckon it's way too hot. :o


Deano :)

[gromit]

What I posted about coolants was learnt from a radiator specialist! Why would you want a coolant that raises the boiling point to arount 125C! By the time your motor overheats the damage is done! I have never heard of a motor that has local hotspots, thats what design engineers are employed for!
Take your radiator to a reputable radiator repairer and get them to dismantle and clean it. Then ask them how blocked it is! The only way to remove the crystalized glycol is to poke a rod down each tube!
Not all coolant manufacturers make coolant without glycol, they are of course going to tell you their product is good!
And my teacher at tradeschool taught me that

I've been running ethylene glycol based coolant for years without any problems, same in the UK where it's obviously more important during the winter months. Never had cooling problems (apart from the odd split hose) in 30 plus years of motoring and never had a radiator rodded. Just relied on regular coolant changes.

The comment about hotspots was from a coolant manufacturers website, not sure which one as I've visited so many recently. The statement was that if the original manufacturer specified ethylene glycol coolant then it was possibly because of localised hot spots in the engine.

My biggest concern is the different advice from different coolant manufacturers. I get the impression that the latest OAT coolants may be OK but I;ll stay with traditional anti-corrosion packs.


Colin

[wedgetail37]

Wow guys, Now I am totally confused. It really is not that simple. I still dont know if the Tectaloy Extra Cool Gold RED is ok for my Discovery 1 300tdi. I will call Tectaloy tomorrow and see what they say. Thank you all for your time and effort and I really appreciate all of your advice. It seems the answer is not so simple and straight forward as one would hope. Maybe I will drain the coolant in the morning and fill with lime cordial. hahahahahahahahahahahahaha thanks guys - Gerry (wedgetail37):):):):):):):):):confused::confused:: confused::)

[incisor]

as i understand it the glycol is an anti freeze agent

if your not in an area where you water is likely to freeze you just use an anti corrosion agent with demineralised water (eg rmi25 or similar)

the glycol impedes the waters ability to adsorb heat at it's natural rate so some people add redline water wetter to compensate.

if you add water wetter your temop gauge can show a hotter temp but overall your system and therefore your engine will run cooler if it is past the thermostats opening temperature

any 300tdi system was designed to run with a glycol based coolant

yet to find a valid reason for using something other than what it was designed to support.

[JDNSW]

A few points perhaps should be made relative to the above discussion.

1. All Series engines (except V8 and Isuzu!) were designed and specified to use water as a coolant with no additives except when operated in freezing conditions, when a glycol based antifreeze was specified. Soft or rainwater was recommended.

2. Glycol has a lower heat capacity (specific heat) than water, hence heat transfer capacity is less for antifreeze coolants than water. In a sense this is compensated for by a higher boiling point, but this does not increase the rate of coolant circulation, so uneven heat distribution in the engine may be exacerbated by the lower heat capacity, and in any case the advantage of the higher boiling point is not relevant until the engine is already well above the intended operating temperature.

3. Glycol is much better than water at finding leaks, hence the traditional view that you only use it when necessary for antifreeze protection.

4. Some engines, in fact possibly most current engines, were designed to use high glycol content coolant, but this does not mean that this is an advantage in engines that were designed to use water. All modern engines require corrosion inhibitors because of the wide use of easily corroded alloy bits in the cooling system - which were not used in Series engines except for the V8 (and the isuzu).

John

[123rover50]

Quote "All modern engines require corrosion inhibitors because of the wide use of easily corroded alloy bits in the cooling system - which were not used in Series engines except for the V8 (and the isuzu)." end quote.

John, the 1600cc engines had alloy thermostat housing and water pump.
These corrode easily and can be a bugger to remove.

Keith

[JDNSW]

Quote "All modern engines require corrosion inhibitors because of the wide use of easily corroded alloy bits in the cooling system - which were not used in Series engines except for the V8 (and the isuzu)." end quote.

John, the 1600cc engines had alloy thermostat housing and water pump.
These corrode easily and can be a bugger to remove.

Keith

Yes, I am aware of that, and if I remember correctly, all Series 1 engines had water heated alloy intake manifolds that also are a corrosion issue. Nevertheless, corrosion inhibitors did not exist when these engines were designed, although corrosion inhibitors certainly would be an advantage. Also worth noting that the engines you have been having corrosion issues with are at least fifty? years old, and who knows what they have had in the cooling system. In reality, if very pure water is used, these engines do not pose a major corrosion issue. Some engines had sacrificial anodes to protect alloy components - I know my Citroen ID19 did, but I don't know about the Series 1 engines. Series 2/3 engines do not, I believe, have any alloy components in the cooling system.

One of my friends reckoned he drove his 34 ford round for several days with no headbolts to try and free the alloy heads, but I think he was exaggerating!

Until late Series 2a, all Series engines had an 'open' cooling system that required regular topping up, making it very likely that they would get unsuitable water added.

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Demineralised water and a sacrificial anode and avoid glycol altogether. At least that is the advice from an aviation engineer used to maintaining old liquid coolant aero engines and WWII vehicles. Most series engines would fit into the same category of WWII vehicles.

[JDNSW]

Demineralised water and a sacrificial anode and avoid glycol altogether. At least that is the advice from an aviation engineer used to maintaining old liquid coolant aero engines and WWII vehicles. Most series engines would fit into the same category of WWII vehicles.

Many WW2 aeroplane engines used a pure ethylene glycol coolant - but they were designed for this, taking advantage of the fact that the higher boiling point allowed a higher operating temperature, with advantages both in combustion and heat transfer. Pump capacity and coolant flow design would have taken account of the lower heat capacity.

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Many WW2 aeroplane engines used a pure ethylene glycol coolant - but they were designed for this, taking advantage of the fact that the higher boiling point allowed a higher operating temperature, with advantages both in combustion and heat transfer. Pump capacity and coolant flow design would have taken account of the lower heat capacity.

JohnThe problem is that glycol also damages the aluminium airframe when spilled on it and penetrates the pores in the aluminium engine parts as well.

Apparently glycol has also been removed from the de-icing fluid sprayed on aircraft in winter conditions.

[mick88]

Demineralised water and a sacrificial anode and avoid glycol altogether. At least that is the advice from an aviation engineer used to maintaining old liquid coolant aero engines and WWII vehicles. Most series engines would fit into the same category of WWII vehicles.




So Dianna,
do the alloy threaded (conduit) plugs in the series block suffice as the "sacrificial anode"?


Cheers, Mick.

[incisor]

So Dianna,
do the alloy threaded (conduit) plugs in the series block suffice as the "sacrificial anode"?


Cheers, Mick.

judging by the condition of most i have seen, yep.

but they are a pita to replace

which is why i went to brass ones with a shoulder and use the block heater plug as the "sacrificial anode".

they are cheap, easily available from most hardware shops and easy to replace compared to the other suckers... and a spare doesnt take up much room under the middle seat :p

[gromit]

One of my friends reckoned he drove his 34 ford round for several days with no headbolts to try and free the alloy heads, but I think he was exaggerating!


John

A friend in the UK did this with a Triumph Stag.....


Colin

[gromit]

Demineralised water and a sacrificial anode and avoid glycol altogether. At least that is the advice from an aviation engineer used to maintaining old liquid coolant aero engines and WWII vehicles. Most series engines would fit into the same category of WWII vehicles.

As there is an anti-corrosion package in glycol based coolant it shouldn't be a problem but it would mean changing coolant every few years.

Corrosion | Chemical Processing Expert Forum: What causes corrosion from ethylene glycol? (http://www.chemicalprocessing.com/experts/corrosion/show/373/)

So is the sacrificial anode a better or just cheaper alternative (when you take labour into account and proper disposal of the used glycol mix) ?


Colin

[123rover50]

A sacrificial anode is only of use in the case of electrolysis between dissimilar metals.
It would have no effect on corrosion due to acids or rusting.

[isuzurover]

The problem is that glycol also damages the aluminium airframe when spilled on it and penetrates the pores in the aluminium engine parts as well.

Apparently glycol has also been removed from the de-icing fluid sprayed on aircraft in winter conditions.

I think you may have been misinformed.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I think you may have been misinformed.
I'm no LAME, I can only recycle what I was told by one. It may well be only opinion or preference of the individual concerned.

They have recently zero timed a WWII Continental tank engine, and I can assure you that there is no glycol in that engine either! :angel:

Diana :twisted:

[Lotz-A-Landies]

A sacrificial anode is only of use in the case of electrolysis between dissimilar metals.
It would have no effect on corrosion due to acids or rusting.The demineralised water should not be acidic. The engines concerned are either cast iron with some aluminium or are aluminium with iron elements like water pump impellers, so all have dissimilar metals.

Did you know that the air conditioning heat exchangers in the Sydney Opera House use sea water (or at least harbour water) and the steel ducting is protected by only large sacrificial anodes on the sea water intake.

[JDNSW]

A sacrificial anode is only of use in the case of electrolysis between dissimilar metals.
It would have no effect on corrosion due to acids or rusting.

No. In the presence of any electrolyte, where several different metals are electrically connected, the one lowest in the galvanic series will be the only one attacked. It is specifically effective against rusting, but it only works when both the sacrificial anode and the metal to be protected are in the same body of electrolyte. (which is why impressed current galvanic protection for cars is a scam, unless you keep your car submerged!)

John

[mick88]

Slightly off topic but still the same principle, I change the sacrificial anode in our electric mains hot water cylinder every five years (as recommended) and so far the cylinder has survived twenty four years with twenty of that on water straight from the Murray River. The last four it has been changed across to
rainwater. The anodes start off approx. 20 mil diameter and 750 mil long after five years there is just the threaded bung left, so I am convinced they work.

Wasn't the reason that cars were changed from positive to negative earth, to reduce electrolysis?

Cheers, Mick.

[Busted Syncro]

G'day, Been researching this topic for awhile.
Follow this link for the facts. http://www.google.com.au/url?url=http://www.nulon.com.au/pdf/FS101%2520-%2520Coolant%2520-%2520The%2520Facts/&rct=j&frm=1&q=&esrc=s&sa=U&ei=CV2aVKX2E-SvmAWWuILoDg&ved=0CCYQFjAD&usg=AFQjCNE8ikGTIxbb0bGaWbrGXog7REJ-mQ
Suggest use Glycol based (to Lubricate water pump seal) with inhibitor not type B inhibitor only. Chris

[JDNSW]

.

Wasn't the reason that cars were changed from positive to negative earth, to reduce electrolysis?

Cheers, Mick.

Sacrificial anodes certainly work when both metals are in the same electrolyte, in the HWS case in the water supply.

I have not heard the suggestion of changing polarity having anything to do with electrolysis. The polarity was pretty much random until the 1930s, when positive earth became pretty much standard, based on a slight (mainly theoretical) advantage in spark plug performance with Kettering ignition, which was then replacing magneto ignition.

The change to negative earth was, as far as I know, purely because early solid state devices, mainly car radios, were simpler and cheaper when the power supply was negative earth. As solid state devices other than car radios became more common in the 1960s, almost all manufacturers changed.

John

[Busted Syncro]

G'day all
Finished my research on coolant for Series Landrovers.
I am going to use Tectaloy xtra cool concentrate 500 mls treats 10 ltrs of water. It is a type B fluid. It is available at Supercheap and Repco for a few dollars.
Reasons are:
It has 369g/litre of Glycol and a rust inhibitor.(sent an email to Tectaloy asking what type of rust inhibitor they use.No reply. Probably Boron.).

The glycol level provides minimal or nil anti freeze or anti boil properties. I will use it for anti corrosion properties only. (Live in Sydney). Have been using a similar Castrol Concentrate for 40 years which is no longer available and have had no issues with it. The machine shop commented on how clean the water jacket in the head is after 50 years. (Note the comments about crystalisation of type A fluids with long term use).

The glycol will lubricate the water pump seal.

Regards Chris

[simmo]

I can add my 20 cents worth.

No engine is advantaged by being operated without a coolant additive, and an overflow tank. The overflow tanks stops the air being drawn in each time the car cools down.

Every oxygen molecule will find an iron or aluminium part of your engine to join with.
I fitted these on my old iron engine falcons. There's some rule of thumb .1 mm of corrosion/scale is the same resistance to heat flow as 10 times that amount of metal.

Most old engines are predominately "iron", cylinders blocks & heads etc.

Even iron industrial and marine engines always used additives for long trouble free service life.

The transition engines ( alloy heads ) are vulnerable because the cylinder head is the anode for the engine block if coolant additive is not used.

Both of these engine types i would just use the traditional coolants that have been tried and tested over the years. Even the old "all alloy" volvo V 6 and Renault 4 cycl engines I used the common techtil etc for 20 years with no ill effects.

New all alloy engines I can't advise, best to follow strictly the makers recommendations even use their coolant if you have to.

I like glycol based about 30%, because i don't want to change the water each time I go somewhere its cold. Plus when we talk water temperature your talking average after the water has mixed, one of the advantages of the coolant additives is they help maintain surface contact & avoid gas evolution at the surfaces, either by temperature or cavitation. Gas evolution reduces heat transfer, cavitation can damage the liners etc.

For the cost of 20 -30 % Glycol based corrosion inhibitor I'm happy to pay, and change it every two years, i usually have a job to do in that time and drain some out anyhow. :)

[JDNSW]

Both ethylene glycol and propylene glycol have specific heats significantly below that of water, and even 30% will reduce cooling by 10-15% compared to water. This is likely to be a much greater effect than that caused by scale.

Glycol is also much better at finding leaks than is water. A corrosion inhibitor, however, without the glycol, is not going to be a problem. Of course, if the cooling system is in reasonable condition, the capacity is sufficient to withstand full power operation at low speeds in desert conditions, so most of us do not have to worry about reductions in capacity.

Most Australians do not need to worry about antifreeze (if you need to where you live you will know), but there are some places you may visit, where it could be needed - mainly alpine areas in winter.

John

[Busted Syncro]

G'day,
I agree John with your post. The tectaloy concentrate when mixed with 10 Ltrs of water has a Glycol ratio of approx 1.845% and as the manufacturers info states has little or nil effect on anti boil/ anti freeze characteristics. Glycol there to lubricate the water pump seal. The green dye is also a good indicator if you have a leak somewhere.

I say "If you can't take disappointment don't drive an old Landrover!!!"

Chris

[ashhhhh]

My Series 3 (81 model) has an original sticker which advises to use a quality glycol coolant, so I always have.
I have just had the motor apart for a paint job and tidy up and the coolant galleries are excellent, no rust or crud.

[JDNSW]

My Series 3 (81 model) has an original sticker which advises to use a quality glycol coolant, so I always have.
I have just had the motor apart for a paint job and tidy up and the coolant galleries are excellent, no rust or crud.

I can only surmise that it was placarded for use in a climate where antifreeze was necessary - which is probably the case for at least some users in Armidale, or it may have simply been attached to all Series 3 by that date, just to cover those sold where antifreeze was needed.

John

[ashhhhh]

I can only surmise that it was placarded for use in a climate where antifreeze was necessary - which is probably the case for at least some users in Armidale, or it may have simply been attached to all Series 3 by that date, just to cover those sold where antifreeze was needed.

John
Indeed. Definitely a requirement here, we had a couple of -11 nights last year, -5 being the standard.