1954 Royal Review 47160049

[Carzee]

That reminded me I had an old Royal Tour book I have and since its too hot outside... I sat in the A/C room like a nerd and scanned some pics for you

The album has bigger scan files. Original page are A4, from '54.
https://picasaweb.google.com/101778520489796594573/1954Tour#


Here are smaller versions.


Off roading in the SCG, spot the Landy...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1070.jpg


Another sportsground, in Wellington NZ.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1091.jpg


Bondi off roading. SLSC parade.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1092.jpg

[123rover50]

Good one. I have that book too. Notice in the last Bondi pic the handrail is black. I am now thinking it is covered with some kind of vinyl perhaps.
The NZ one kept its windscreen on while the Aussie ones took it off altogether.
Keith

Thanks Carzee. Looked at the Album too. I have the book with the blue cover plus a couple of others but not the one with the palm trees on the cover .
Didnt realise they published so many books on it

[123rover50]

Nobody would have noticed if you had used them with the larger head . Are you going to turn them down for the rest of the capping , that will take some time . Wayne

Mate they re all done. Only took an hour for what, 80 or so. I didnt count them:)
Keith

[1950landy]

Your a lot more keen than me these days. You wouldn't want to look at my 80 , the solid alum rivets are held in with speed nuts because the rivets i gor back then were too long & too hard . You have shamed me now I think i will have to take them out & fit the ones i bought from bolt Master for the door tops. I managed to buy the metak shaft forthe jack handle for my shelly jack , the only thing I need for the tool kit /roll is the tommy bar :) Wayne

[Carzee]

The 54 Tour exhibition is on in Canberra.
the stats:
the which/what/when visited list:
National Museum of Australia - An exhausting itinerary (http://www.nma.gov.au/exhibitions/royal_romance/an_exhausting_itinerary)
National Museum of Australia - Facts and figures from the 1954 royal tour (http://www.nma.gov.au/exhibitions/royal_romance/amazing_facts_and_figures_from_the_1954_royal_tour _)

The Queen even called into Broken Hill on march 18th, coming from Rockhampton in a QANTAS plane, then left for Adelaide.

There was an average of 5 engagements per day, every day, in Australia, from Feb 3rd to April 1st.

eg, a school day in February, sometime between the 3rd and the 9th, was when the Royal couple got dizzy driving around - and around - the SCG.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1070.jpg

This Bundy pic shows the sort of traffic (vehicle models/brands) was on the streets in '54:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1071.jpg

Victorian archives funded this:
Royal Visit to Victoria, Australia 1954 - Public Record Office Victoria (http://wiki.prov.vic.gov.au/index.php/Royal_Visit_to_Victoria,_Australia_1954)

[Carzee]

I think the driver/s name/s that drove your Land-Rover could be on this list:
Royal Family Files - Staffing for Royal Visit - Public Record Office Victoria (http://wiki.prov.vic.gov.au/index.php/Royal_Family_Files_-_Staffing_for_Royal_Visit)

[Carzee]

There's a typo but I can't edit it. The '54 Tour NMA exhibition was on in Canberra in 2004, the 50th anniversary.

[123rover50]

Thought I would start on the rear door as the block hasnt been sleeved yet.
Got the ground crank back $100.00 Planed head , valve seats and lined guides. $80.00. Camshaft reground to get rid of the pitting $230.00.

Cut and shut a couple of old doors to fit.

[1950landy]

I was wrong not a clever bugger but a very clever bugger :BigThumb: Wayne

[123rover50]

Folded the edges by clamping between two layers of ply and the same with the cutout for the handle. Traced around the hole in the old skin, cut the ply to the outside and cut the alloy 8 mm smaller. clamped together and tapped with the ball pein to form the return.

[123rover50]

Except that site is not correct in regards the 81" prototypes. There were no 81" prototypes. What there were is a batch of thirty three production 80" model vehicles taken from the MoD motor pool and sent for conversion as trials test beds for the Rolls Royce B40 series engines.

Were there 2 centre steer prototypes in 1947, what about the prototype #1 on a Jeep chassis which was the first built and wasn't centre steer. The forty eight pre-production vehicles, didn't that include the centre steer and were one consecutive series?

the first 1949 was #8663001 and last 1949 model was #8667920, leaving only 4920 built?

If the FAQ has those errors, how many others are there?

Just had some interesting info from a former owner of an 81.
Of the 33 81,s The military converted 4 to Royal Review vehicles.
One for each area of opps. Home. Far East, Middle East, and Germany.
One is in the Dunsfold Museum,
The one my informant had had its body removed and put in storage.
One was written off in Germany.
One still unaccounted for.

Keith

[123rover50]

Need to file the hinge holes a bit, and folding the top has pulled in between some stays I had fitted. Need a couple more in the gaps so a bit of mucking around there. You can see the dips in the top edge.

[123rover50]

The Country Life Picture Book of the Royal Tour.
Has this photo of an 80" Royal Review at Aden.

[1950landy]

Looks like it may be an 80" with some bars fitted in the back . Did it say what country looks like Middle East with camels & not horses. Wayne

[Killer]

Looks like it may be an 80" with some bars fitted in the back . Did it say what country looks like Middle East with camels & not horses. Wayne

Aden, Yemen.

Cheers, Mick.

[B.S.F.]

Single full length bushes dont go right through the chassis.
Need two of part number 263354 for each side.

PM sent

[123rover50]

PM sent

Wally jut told me he picked up two long bushes that go right through the chassis for the front hangers. pt no 569746.

[123rover50]

Too wet to do anything much. Treated the leaky tank with Redkote.
I thinned it down more and will do two coats as they suggest in the brochure.

[1950landy]

YAH, Good time to list bits on ebay & pump 200mm water out of the pool ever hour. mite be a good time to paint the royal Ha Ha:lol2:. I found some new old stock pork pie lights for Brendan @ $180 each . You probely cant get to Gympie at the moment i guess. Wayne

[123rover50]

No cant get to Gympie on the main road anyway. Two bridge approaches washed out. The talk is maybe through Widgee but yet to be confirmed.

Rebuilt a no name DVXH4A yesterday as it seems the 54 siamese should have the G100 version of this as compared to the G86 in the 1600.
I dont know what version this is.
Has anyone else seen this dizzy, perhaps with a rivited plate instead of the usual stamping?

[wrinklearthur]

No cant get to Gympie on the main road anyway. Two bridge approaches washed out. The talk is maybe through Widgee but yet to be confirmed.

Rebuilt a no name DVXH4A yesterday as it seems the 54 siamese should have the G100 version of this as compared to the G86 in the 1600.
I dont know what version this is.
Has anyone else seen this dizzy, perhaps with a rivited plate instead of the usual stamping?

I have spotted a cap on eBay lately for that dizzy, I'll see if I can find it again and post the link up.

Where is a list of all the distributor model's to be found?
.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , Give Kev Baker a call but make sure you have all the numbers ready because he will ask you , he's a numbers man. he will tell you the correct distributor for the royal. my 1595cc 80 has a dist with a rivited plate there should be a date stamp on the plate or dist body which will be up to a couple of months before the L/R was built . Wayne

[1950landy]

I forgot to give you Kev's number (07) 54944221 Wayne

[123rover50]

Thanks Wayne. I have two "no name " ones. The other is on the Tickford.

Just found this. Nothing to do with the 86 except similar lines.
Its one of the Rolls Royce 81" Review vehicles.
May be of interest.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , Got a email from Anthony yesterday , he said he doese have the P4 hubcaps in Newcastle . He is going to South Africa as a visiting professor at Rodes Uni for 5 weeks so i will contact him again when he gets back. he should be able to get his son to post them up . Did A silly thing the other day was cuting a SHS pipe with cuting disc in a 4 1/2" grinder & it jamed , kicked back out & bit the back of my left hand. cut down to the bone :( so out of action for a few days. Stiches coming out Wednesday. Will be branded for life . So watch those grinders . Wayne

[123rover50]

You have to be careful all right. I love my big 10" Makita. Had it since 1975 but I have been told they are banned from job sites now.
I guess all of us have had luck escapes.

(Currently working on my skidsteer)

[123rover50]

Waiting on parts for the skidsteer so decided to start on the step. After examining lots of photos I think I have it figured out.

[1950landy]

Yes all garger grinders have to have a dead man switch so the triger can not be locked onbut 4" , 4 1/2" &5" don't & i think they are more dangerous because you tend to hang on to them with one handso when they kick they tend to bite the opporator & we never use them with the side handle because it gets in the way. The step is looking good & I cant beleave the job you did onthe back door. What a clever person you are . :BigThumb: Wayne

[123rover50]

Needed to make a couple of spacers to silver braze on as a pivot.
One of the wifes old stainless 6.5mm barrels came in handy. They are worn out after 3000 rds but good hollow bar material.

[1950landy]

We used to have a guy inthe Rover club making IOE rocker shafts out of old barrels I beleave they worked realy well Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

We used to have a guy inthe Rover club making IOE rocker shafts out of old barrels I beleave they worked realy well Wayne

There is a chap doing the opposite at a engineering shop near me, he gave up trying to drill a length of rod to make a barrel, so He has brought a length of material already bored from Queensland for $300.
.

[123rover50]

There is a chap doing the opposite at a engineering shop near me, he gave up trying to drill a length of rod to make a barrel, so He has brought a length of material already bored from Queensland for $300.
.

Wow. I have a bunch of 6.5 barrels in stainless he can give me $300 for.:D:D:D:D
6.5 is not a big hole . He can rebore them to whatever.

[123rover50]

Woo hoo the loom arrived today.
Sent Fed Ex 31 Jan arrived Sydney 3rd Feb . Not bad.
Transferred to Star Track . They dicked around, sent it to Toowoomba and back. Finally gave up and they posted it from Nambour getting to our PO today.
This allowed me to pull the wires through to the back and finally screw the lower panel on.

[1950landy]

CLEVER BOY:) . MY DAUGHTER HAD A PARCEL SENT TO OUT PLACE WITH STAR TRECK. WHAE THEY DELIVERED IT WE WERE HOME BUT DIDN'T EVEN KNOCK ON THE DOOR JUST DUMPED THE BOX ON THE ROOF OF MY WIFE'S CITROEN:mad:. AT THE RATE YOU ARE GOING YOU WILL BE FINISHED BY ALL BRITISH DAY IN SEPTEMBER. WOULD BE GOOD TO SEE IT THERE EVEN IF IT'S NOT FINISHED. IF I SPENT THIS MUCH TIME ON MY CARS I WOULD ALWAYS BE IN THE DOG HOUSE:(. I PICKED UP BRENDAN'S PORK PIE LIGHTS OFF KEV BAKER TUESDAY NIGHT $188 EACH FOR NEW OLD STOCK . REGARDS WAYNE :BigThumb::BigThumb::BigThumb:

[1950landy]

I was just looking at the last photo you posted , you do like Makita tools dont you . We ysed Makita 4" & 5"grinders when we were in business had about 40 of them . The men used them like 9" we used to get between between 2 to 4 years out of them , other brands 1 to 9 months . Wayne

[123rover50]

Yes tried the cheapies. Our local Mitre 10 had a special on these.
Its raining here. Hows the hand?

[1950landy]

Hand is mending well , has grown back together but still a bit tender. We always payed $90 for a makita 4" & got about 10 wheels with them. The plastic case I used to cut the insided out were good for keeping old nuts & bolts , I've got one i keep all the bits i need for the safty fence & pump for when i do displays with the L/R & pump. Wayne

[123rover50]

Step pretty well sorted.
Only the plunger mechanism that holds it up to do.

[1950landy]

WHAT LANDROVER SPARE PARTS BOOK DID YOU FIND THAT IN :o ANOTHER KITH CREATION "O" WHAT A CLEVER MAN . :BigThumb:WAYNE

[1950landy]

This is my 1950 Landy at work at steam train day Mitchelton station Dec 2011 . The wooden box trailer was also built in 1950. Wayne

[1950landy]

Hi Keith . Worked out how to post photo's at last . Didn't mean to post on here ,ment to post on show your vehicle site . Wayne

[123rover50]

No problem except if you want to put it in the other place it wont accept your photos. It will say they are already posted on the forum. If you wish to you can put them in photobucket then repost them from there.

[123rover50]

Well after my engine builder said no liners were available in Oz I got some out from Dunsfolds and on taking them in today I was told he cant press these in because the top is not flat. Seems I need to obtain or make an adaptor.
If its not one thing its another.
Any engineering types happen to be looking at this thread?
How would you go about making a sleeve with the profile to fit these liners?
Also the top edge is not square its tapered. I guess to make it easier for the rings to pass. The liner is a 4 thou inter fit but I dont know what that means in terms of force to press it in.

[wrinklearthur]

Well after my engine builder said no liners were available in Oz I got some out from Dunsfolds and on taking them in today I was told he cant press these in because the top is not flat. Seems I need to obtain or make an adaptor.
If its not one thing its another.
Any engineering types happen to be looking at this thread?
How would you go about making a sleeve with the profile to fit these liners?
Also the top edge is not square its tapered. I guess to make it easier for the rings to pass. The liner is a 4 thou inter fit but I dont know what that means in terms of force to press it in.
I think there is a bit in one of the series one workshop manuals about installing sleeves, once the bore has been prepared for the sleeve could you pack it with dry ice and have the block warm, then with out wasting time, insert the sleeve, it should go in a lot easier and when the temperatures stabilise they should be nice and tight.
.

[123rover50]

I think there is a bit in one of the series one workshop manuals about installing sleeves, once the bore has been prepared for the sleeve could you pack it with dry ice and have the block warm, then with out wasting time, insert the sleeve, it should go in a lot easier and when the temperatures stabilise they should be nice and tight.
.
Yes the manual does not show the top of the liner. Just the tool and how to keep it lined up.
I cant see the builder mucking with heat and ice but if I got him to bore it, then I could bring it home install the liners then take it back for him to bore again to suit the pistons.
Just having a think over a port before I go to bed.
If I turned a sleeve to slide inside the liner.
Put it inside the liner with say 3 inches sticking out the top.
Then cut a bunch of stainless welding rods (gas) into lengths.
arrainged them around the sleeve lengthwise covering the sleeve and securing them with a big hose clamp.
Tap them down to follow the profile of the top of the liner then silver solder them to the sleeve.
Would that be strong enough to press the liner in?

[1950landy]

I had a sleve fitted in my 1595 block after the engine reconditioner didn't bore it straight . unfortunately he is out of business now. i'll be going to engine engineering next week i'll ask them if they have ever done them. Your rite about the photo's couldn't put them on the other site.
Wayne

[123rover50]

I had a sleve fitted in my 1595 block after the engine reconditioner didn't bore it straight . unfortunately he is out of business now. i'll be going to engine engineering next week i'll ask them if they have ever done them. Your rite about the photo's couldn't put them on the other site.
Wayne

Google photobucket. Join up and put the pics in there. From there you can put them in as many times as you like. The other advantage is the pics come up full size from the start. A lot of people cant be bothered opening thumbnails. If I can do it you can:)

[123rover50]

Cleaning up the chrome plated rails, I found these numbers under the D shaped base. I wonder if the 13 means it was build no 13.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/226.jpg

Keith

[1950landy]

May be , looks like Rover thought the guy making the rails was dumb the are stamped near sise & left & off side & right . Its only taken me 6 months to work out how to put the photo's on , probely onother 6 months to work out the other way . Wayne

[1950landy]

Found a good Landrover on You Tube called Landrover series1 arthur goddard event . It also has some drg . of 80" front guards with measurements if you havn't already seen it . Wayne

[B.S.F.]

You may find some information about installing liners here. L/R series 1 section-----Sticky, Useful Files-------1952 Service Bulletin. .W.

[123rover50]

Found a good Landrover on You Tube called Landrover series1 arthur goddard event . It also has some drg . of 80" front guards with measurements if you havn't already seen it . Wayne
I cant look a utube stuff. It takes ages and I get impatient and turn it off. Life is too short:)

[Killer]

Keith, I have access to a CNC machining centre with a 4th axis (CNC dividing head), it should not be a problem to make a tool to suit the profile of the liner.

Cheers, Mick.

[123rover50]

Thanks Mick. Will see what turns up. I have heaps to do in the mean time.

Keith

[wrinklearthur]

Keith, I have access to a CNC machining centre with a 4th axis (CNC dividing head), it should not be a problem to make a tool to suit the profile of the liner.

Cheers, Mick.

Just a thought, is there any about for the 2.6 six ?

.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith . Came across a web site ( landrover 1954 service news letters ) has some good info if you like to have a look . You will need to scroll through it because it covers rover cars also. There is stuff on swivel hubs , dist points & dimentions to fit reflectors . Some of the car bits relate to L/R also
Wayne

[123rover50]

On to the swivel seats.
Arthur must have gone for overkill on this 3/8 plate to support the Royal bum.
I settled on 1/4 plate as it was all I had.

[123rover50]

Polished up some galv pipe.

[Carzee]

here's a rarity...

1954 Royal tour car badge for Ford Holden Austin Morris MG Wolseley Chev Rover | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1954-Royal-tour-car-badge-for-Ford-Holden-Austin-Morris-MG-Wolseley-Chev-Rover-/251232770710?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7ea3da96)

[123rover50]

here's a rarity...

1954 Royal tour car badge for Ford Holden Austin Morris MG Wolseley Chev Rover | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1954-Royal-tour-car-badge-for-Ford-Holden-Austin-Morris-MG-Wolseley-Chev-Rover-/251232770710?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7ea3da96)

Thanks for the heads up, that would have gone well on the bumper but I blew it:(
Put it on my watch list then dozed off and forgot to bid.

[wrinklearthur]

Thanks for the heads up, that would have gone well on the bumper but I blew it:(
Put it on my watch list then dozed off and forgot to bid.

And I was hoping you would have scored that.
If everyone could keep a eye open (pun) maybe another one will show up.

.

[incisor]

they come up quite regularly

use www.gixen.com

sleep all you want then :p

[incisor]

Royal Tour 1954 metal car badge. | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Royal-Tour-1954-metal-car-badge-/380590065919)

[123rover50]

Royal Tour 1954 metal car badge. | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Royal-Tour-1954-metal-car-badge-/380590065919)

Wow another one.
I put Royal tour into ebay often but have never seen these.

Thanks for the link. I will try again.

Keith

[1950landy]

The crown on this badge is a different shap to the one on the front of the Australian L/R's. Thought i could blow it up but it has straight lines on top of crown & the L/R one is rounded. It looks like it may have been painted onto a larger background . Wayne

[123rover50]

The crown on this badge is a different shap to the one on the front of the Australian L/R's. Thought i could blow it up but it has straight lines on top of crown & the L/R one is rounded. It looks like it may have been painted onto a larger background . Wayne

These are just a souvenier item, but good all the same.
A.G. has one of the real ones given to him by H.R.H.:)

[1950landy]

I was trying to get a good photo of the one on the landrover to blow uo & use as a template. Have you seen the web site ( is that yhe ritr royal landrover ) the snowy mountain mueseum yhinks they have one . I don't think it is there seams to be toomany things wrong & from the photo it may be a LWB , what do you think . I tryed the email address & it went no were. I may give them a ring tomorrow & see what i can find out :cool: Wayne

[123rover50]

This is the Royal Review in Tassie. Could be 49.
The LWB was not a review as such but could have been used to ferry Liz and Phill around the Snowy. I think the Jury is still out on that one.

[123rover50]

After I had made these swivel bum rest things I realised there was nothing to stop them swinging back and forth while moving. To stop this I made up some spring loaded plungers that click in and hold in place when in use or when stowed. I have no idea what was there before.

[123rover50]

And for those that dont have a clue what I am on about.
Here is a pic of what the rear layout looks like.
I have not got to the rear lift up seats yet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1081.jpg

Keith

[B.S.F.]

Why the extended Pork Pies do you think ? .W.

[123rover50]

Why the extended Pork Pies do you think ? .W.

They look like normal Pork Pies to me. The extended look is the reflection in the high gloss I think:o
But why Gaydon swapped the D,s out for them , I dont know.

[wrinklearthur]

Did you do any good with that badge off eBay?
And talking about eBay look here at these wheels.
Land Rover Series 1 and Brockhouse 3 Stud Wheel Rim x2 (Etch Primed) | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-1-and-Brockhouse-3-Stud-Wheel-Rim-x2-Etch-Primed-/121079127962?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims _Car_Rims_ET&hash=item1c30e0df9a)
.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith, Found this in a Classic & Sports Car mag . This photo has to be an Australian Royal , is missing the windscreem & from all the photo's of royal vehicles the Australian vehicles were the only ones with the crown on the front bump bar. :cool: Hope you like it . Also spoke to John Bradshaw he is going to call into Kev's when he gets back from down south . Wayne

[1950landy]

This may be a better size to read . Wayne:cool:

[123rover50]

Did you do any good with that badge off eBay?

.

:):)

[wrinklearthur]

:):)
:twobeers:

[123rover50]

[QUOTE=1950landy;1875185]This may be a better size to read . Wayne:cool:

Thanks Wayne.
I havnt done much on it lately. Acres of grass to cut:(
Also been patching up an old 50,s trailer a bit like yours to mount the old IHC corn grinder on for a belt driven display.

[123rover50]

[QUOTE=1950landyThis photo has to be an Australian Royal , is missing the windscreem & from all the photo's of royal vehicles the Australian vehicles were the only ones with the crown on the front bump bar. :cool: [/QUOTE]

Found this photo of the Kiwi one in Auckland.
Perhaps all the Downunder Tour cars had the crowns. There was one on the back too.
I think they look better without the windscreen:angel:
They had the flagpole in the centre of the offside mudguard whereas the Aussie ones were nearer to the outside seam.

[1950landy]

The whole fleet of vehicles had the crowns , the damilers & sidleys , ect . Havn't seen any of the ones in england with the crowns. Some of the photo's look like the crown is just painted on to a board or metal plate. Are you going to post photo's or the corn cobber trailer when you get it finished. Would be good to go to a show & have your corn cobber & my pump runing together .:D Wayne

[123rover50]

I got the grinder running yesterday. Photo in the series one section under what do you do with yours, or similar.
Trailer, Grinder and Jumbuck all look well used so will leave them like that in the meantime. Too many things to do.

[Timj]

Hi Keith,

Just thought this ebay item might interest you, an A3 poster of the Launceston appearance of one of the royal land rovers.

LAND ROVER ROYAL TOUR 1954 LAUNCESTON A3 POSTER PRINT PICTURE PHOTO IMAGE | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-ROYAL-TOUR-1954-LAUNCESTON-A3-POSTER-PRINT-PICTURE-PHOTO-IMAGE-/271004551957?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&hash=item3f19214b15&_uhb=1#ht_649wt_928)

Cheers,

Tim.

[123rover50]

Hi Keith,

Just thought this ebay item might interest you, an A3 poster of the Launceston appearance of one of the royal land rovers.

LAND ROVER ROYAL TOUR 1954 LAUNCESTON A3 POSTER PRINT PICTURE PHOTO IMAGE | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-ROYAL-TOUR-1954-LAUNCESTON-A3-POSTER-PRINT-PICTURE-PHOTO-IMAGE-/271004551957?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&hash=item3f19214b15&_uhb=1#ht_649wt_928)

Cheers,

Tim.
Thanks Tim but I have already bought that one a couple of months ago.:)
Its a good print and clearly shows a round white bar bolted between the windscreen mounts.
Keith

[1950landy]

:BigThumb:Hi Keith , I picked up some Landrover parts today ' there's a 2L copper head gasket with them:D. I beleave it will fit your 53 motor , the bores are the same centers as a 1595cc but are a larger diameter. If you want it its yours for $0. Also got a 2A 2 1/4 complete motor with out the head , the guy had it siting under his house for the lasr 30 years & the bores are rustey above the pistons. It's free to any one that wants it , just have to come & pick it up. There is also a 2 A wheel rim painted gray . There was also a PTO which I have already found a home fore & a few gasket sets that i have to sotr through & decide what to do with them. If you know anybody that wants the motor to rebuild or for the parts in it let me know. The corn shreader looks good . Regards Wayne

[123rover50]

The whole fleet of vehicles had the crowns , the damilers & sidleys , ect . Havn't seen any of the ones in england with the crowns. Some of the photo's look like the crown is just painted on to a board or metal plate. Are you going to post photo's or the corn cobber trailer when you get it finished. Would be good to go to a show & have your corn cobber & my pump runing together .:D Wayne

Looks as if the Landy Crown is not the same as the others.

[1950landy]

Is that photo at the Brisbane Eka Grounds . the crown looks different to the one on the Humber looks to have straights instead of round sides & top' . It also looks different to the one in the Tasmania photo which is rounded but different to the Humber also. Wayne:cool: Would be goodc to get a square on front view of the Brisbane one.

[1950landy]

:o Hi Keith , Have a look at my mini cam which had surfave rust on it , put it in the mollasse tank over night . Don't kmow what went wrong , I should have wiped it with fine wet & dry . Thats one Cooper S cam in the bin. i'am only using 3L to 200L of water mix. :cool: wayne

[1950landy]

Keith , They just had one of the Royal Landrovers in Woolongong on channel 72 . Wyane

[123rover50]

:o Hi Keith , Have a look at my mini cam which had surfave rust on it , put it in the mollasse tank over night . Don't kmow what went wrong , I should have wiped it with fine wet & dry . Thats one Cooper S cam in the bin. i'am only using 3L to 200L of water mix. :cool: wayne
Where did you get that cam from. It looks as if its been buried in the backyard for a year. Is it some kind of alloy? There should be no problem with that mix eating steel.

[1950landy]

I bought it off ebay . looked good when i bought it , it got surface rust on it from handrling it , it's been sitting in cupooard for about 12 mounths os put in the mollassis to remove the rust. It is a 1100 cam with a Cooper S grind .I think when it was built up before the grinde the weld wasn't any good. Makes a good paper weight :cool: Wayne

[123rover50]

Made up some pips for the hubcaps. Had none to copy but its not rocket science. Made the hole undersize then banged them in. If they work loose I will tack the back.

[incisor]

I bought it off ebay . looked good when i bought it , it got surface rust on it from handrling it , it's been sitting in cupooard for about 12 mounths os put in the mollassis to remove the rust. It is a 1100 cam with a Cooper S grind .I think when it was built up before the grinde the weld wasn't any good. Makes a good paper weight :cool: Wayne

be a eutectic build up or metal spray that has been eaten away but am surprised that molasses took to it like that in that short a time, wow.

something like CastoTig® 45303 W | Castolin Eutectic (http://www.castolin.com/product/castotig-45303-w)

a std cam would need building up for a performance grind i would imagine due to longer dwell times etc etc but that has been eaten all over the place....

[123rover50]

Got the sleeved block back. Looks the goods.
Interesting in that they did not bore it right out but stopped 12mm or so from the bottom. They then shortened the liner buy the same amount then dropped it in, then decked the block. Effectively this then locks the liner between the head and the step so it cant move.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , K.B. tells me John picked up hub caos the other day. Motor is looking good . See you at Arthurs. Wayne

[123rover50]

Yes. Will get them rechromed.
Picking up some blue vinyl at a place just down the road from Arthurs on the 1st. Save a trip:)

[123rover50]

Ready to fit the pistons but the new pistons have pins .687" the pins to fit the bushes in the rods are .690". As the old pins and bushes were good I was going to reuse them but cant as they wont fit in the pistons.
So now have to rebush the small ends in the rods and ream them to fit the new pins.
Nothing is easy.
Fitted the new exhaust valves instead using a gollup of grease to hold the colletts.

[1950landy]

Ready to fit the pistons but the new pistons have pins .687" the pins to fit the bushes in the rods are .690". As the old pins and bushes were good I was going to reuse them but cant as they wont fit in the pistons.
So now have to rebush the small ends in the rods and ream them to fit the new pins.
Nothing is easy.
Fitted the new exhaust valves instead using a gollup of grease to hold the colletts.
BUGGER:(

[1950landy]

:oHi Keith, This is why I am looking for an exhaust manifold. It's only 63 years old , do you think Rover will give me warranty ;)if they were still around . Wayne

[123rover50]

How did you do that?
There is probably one here:)

[1950landy]

Don't know , last used landy about 3 months ago & no sign of a blow , been parked in shed & went to move it & was blown . I know series 3 brake manifolds all the time especially when used on the beach . I think we fitted 3 on my dad's S3 usually after being up to Double Island Point:cool: Wayne

[1950landy]

Hi Keith, If you want to get me you will need to do it through this site as i cant get emails or send them through bigpond . Big pond is having trouble with there server & dont know when it will be fixed :thumbsdown: It's been a problem for a couple of weeks & if it keeps going i will have to change surplyer. :BigThumb:Wayne

[123rover50]

Got around to making new smallend bushes. Remembered to drill the oil hole and grind a groove in the pin like the old one as the new one did not have it but I thought it a good idea.

[123rover50]

Shame to open these old boxes. They used lots of preservative in those days. Got the rods, pistons, and crank assembled remembering to keep the side of the pistons marked FRONT to the front and the oil hole in the rod to the side away from the camshaft.

[wrinklearthur]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/59604d1367010265-1954-royal-review-47160049-img_0939.jpg

Hi Keith

Spotted the adjustable reamer, would you know off hand which size range adjustable reamer is the best for dressing the holes in the chassis for the spring bushes ?
.

[1950landy]

When i got the new speedo for my 80" was wraped the same way with about 15 layers of grease paper , cardboard & other paper .I's a shame to unwrap them. Wayne

[123rover50]

Hi Keith

Spotted the adjustable reamer, would you know off hand which size range adjustable reamer is the best for dressing the holes in the chassis for the spring bushes ?
.

Sorry Arthur, I am not that fussy:) I have a reamer to do the bronze bushes for the clutch and brake shafts through the chassis but for the spring bushes , once I have the outer out I put a little stone in a flexible shaft driven by my electric drill and give it a smooth over with that.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith ,
Photo of crown , will take it to sign people today. Wayne:BigThumb:

[1950landy]

Hi Keith, An up date on my Landy. Went & picked up trailer this morning then started Landy & runing as usual. Took to workshop anyway& checked everything but could not find what caused it to drop 2 cylinders only no2 cylinder down no compression a little.:( Decided to pull the head & do a valve grind. All looks good in side after 20 years runing on unleaded. Found some wear in dist bush & vacume advance works but doese not advance timing so will go through distributor. Tomorrow's job laping in valves & making new side & tappet cover gaskets , the last ones I made are beyond it after 20 plus years :(. I'am going to grinde those plugs in the block some more to make sure they clear the manifold, don't want to brake another Wayne:BigThumb:

[123rover50]

Thats good. All looks OK.
Just got home. Called in to Errols and picked up the other door. He wasnt home but left it under a tree. Came back via Esk.
Good pic of the crown:)

[1950landy]

Yes , I saw sign man & he said he can do it ok. I'll cut out the alum I got some sheet here , what thickness do you want . The front one will need a bracket if you can let me know what you want & the back should fit flat on the rear i think . I'll have to look at some photo's again . I'll shout you the signs . Hope Landy goese better after this work been getting neglected lately with working on the mini. Mite give Landy a good going over once I get the motor in the mini & bring it home , starting to get a few oil leaks , cork gaskets are geting old & seals are wearing . Wayne

[123rover50]

Thanks Wayne. Very kind of you. The thickness looked to be about 3/16" I would think at a guess. I can make a bracket and I still have to clean up the base it bolts to on the bumper.
My inlet valve guides have been sleeved thus covering the o ring groove. I have bought a tool to cut the OD of the guide back to .530" to enable me to fit a cup type seal that fits over the guide. A more modern system and allows seals to be renewed without taking off the head.

[1950landy]

I thought the bracket should be tig welded on to the plate first . I think he is going to screan print the crown on not do a contact sticker I'll try to find out more about how he is going to do it. I was just thinking about doing umbrella seals on Landy inlets also. Wayne

[1950landy]

:cool::cool:
Thanks Wayne. Very kind of you. The thickness looked to be about 3/16" I would think at a guess. I can make a bracket and I still have to clean up the base it bolts to on the bumper.
My inlet valve guides have been sleeved thus covering the o ring groove. I have bought a tool to cut the OD of the guide back to .530" to enable me to fit a cup type seal that fits over the guide. A more modern system and allows seals to be renewed without taking off the head.
Just thought , doesn't the valve stem seals go inside the valve caps . It's been over 20 years since i did mine , i'll check when i strip the head today Wayne

[123rover50]

Yes the early ones went inside the caps then they changed to the o ring inside the guide which was better but you have to remove the valve to change them and be careful the valve does not cut the o ring when you insert it.
Those early ones with the seal at the top were next to useless so they say. I have never seen one.

[123rover50]

I thought the bracket should be tig welded on to the plate first . I think he is going to screan print the crown on not do a contact sticker I'll try to find out more about how he is going to do it. I was just thinking about doing umbrella seals on Landy inlets also. Wayne
When this tool and seal arrives I will give a demo on here and see how it goes. I hope they are not too efficient and starve the stems of oil:(

I will work the bracket out. Perhaps use epoxy.

[1950landy]

I stand corrected , mine has the "O" rings in the guides , too long since I overhauled the motor . My "O" rings had turned to carbon & broken up into about 20 pieces each. BMC used "O" rings in the valve caps , they worked well , you compressed the valve spring then fitted the "O" ring on the stem then fitted the collets & released the spring compressor. This prevented the oil from runing down the center of the valve cap & it ran over the side & there was enough oil vapor around to lube the valve stem. When we did valve grinds the "O" rings were always in one piece . I think my back & ribs are broken after leaning over the guard all afternoon lapping in exhaust valves. Just have to refit exhaust collets on Monday when i.am fresh , not a good job to do when tired & saw back & refit the head . Doing a couple of other jobs while the heads off & there is a bit more room, like getting the choke light working. Yes some good epoxy glue should do the trick. I'll get the L/R going first then start on the crowns.

[123rover50]

Well here it is, came this morning. After fixing the brakes on the 6x6 I got into this.

[1950landy]

Was it the booster? Those seals look good do they fit inside the inner valve springs. Wayne

[123rover50]

No not the booster. I started with the back wheels and on the last one found both bonded linings had parted from the shoes:(

Yes seals fit inside the springs.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , New motor almost ready for the 80" , 3.4L H/C fully balanced & "d" type cams.:lol2: Just kiding , off to British Off Road for a Carb gasket set & Kev Bakers for some distributor parts tomorrow, then we will see how its going after a decoke , valve grinde & a vacume advance that works:cool:.
Wayne

[123rover50]

Sounds good. I have had a couple of NOS vacuums from Kev but they didnt last long. I have been sending them to that bloke at Caboolture to get new diaphrams fitted. They have been OK so far.
I timed mine up and fitted the new chain yesterday. Had to go to town today so bought a seal for the timing cover. I got an undersize one as the shaft on the balancer is scored so I will turn it down a bit on the lathe.

[1950landy]

I fitted speedy sleves on all my flanges when I did the motor years ago & didn't have any oil leaks for quite a few years but now its like all Landrovers , helps to stop rust. Wayne

[123rover50]

Turned up a mandrell, tapped on the balancer and turned the spigot down to 1.875" to suit the replacement seal

[1950landy]

I bought one of the Leyland Cartransporters with 8 landrovers . Found one in Australia:banana: Got my diatributor bits from Kev But as I thought the carby gaslet set from British Off Road was incorect & some of the gaskets were broken . Thet told me they are no longer available so i ordered one from England. Will glue the other back together untill the new one comes. Wayne

[123rover50]

Everyone has their way of doing this. Here is mine. Drop a tack hammer in the slot, the handle stops it rotating.

[1950landy]

You'll have it runing before i've got landy going again . Overhauled distributor , all works fine except i broke the insulator saddle for the points bolt . :thumbsdown: Kev's sending me one tomorrow .:BigThumb: Have glued the carby gasket back together until the overhaul kit comes. Wayne

[123rover50]

You'll have it runing before i've got landy going again . Overhauled distributor , all works fine except i broke the insulator saddle for the points bolt . :thumbsdown: Kev's sending me one tomorrow .:BigThumb: Have glued the carby gasket back together until the overhaul kit comes. Wayne

I carved a saddle out of a bit of plastic. Seems to work.
Those Dioramas look good. I cant afford them but.:(
I have ordered some BSF Brass manifold nuts as the steel ones were not much good.

[1950landy]

if Kev hadn't had them thats what i was going to do

[123rover50]

Core plugs are 1 15/16" set in "Stag" and tapped in with a socket.

[123rover50]

I have always installed the filter with the raised join in the gap in the centre of the clamp. As in the pic of the whole engine and box. It is a pain to remove as the complete clamp has to be unbolted.
Wayne (1950landy) and I were discussing this and he said some people just install the filter from underneath leaving the seam under the clamp.
I found these other pics showing just that. So, it seems you can take your pic.
I wont be changing out these filters anyway as they are too hard to get . I will just change the oil more often (when it starts to darken) and put it through my tractor so it wont be wasted.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith, I would say they were origionly ment to fit in the geove but because they are so hard to fit they revised the fitment. I got my sassle from Kev this morning but the LEMON " Citroen " is playing up so runing Meryll around today , will finish Landy Monday. Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

I wont be changing out these filters anyway as they are too hard to get . I will just change the oil more often (when it starts to darken) and put it through my tractor so it wont be wasted.
Like the Ferguson TEA20, the main one to clean, is the filter on the pickup.
I agree that the bypass filter will last if the engine oil is changed regularly.

Now for something interesting that I have spotted, if you look at item 'F'.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/60241d1368137911-1954-royal-review-47160049-filter-01-001.jpg

There is a typo in my spare parts catalogue, Part No 4051- Section I 1948-51, page 18 - item 27 - Distance piece for oil strainer, is shown as Part No 52181.
item 26 - Oil strainer for pump, is shown as Part No 266900.

Section II 1952-53, page 18 - item 15 - Distance piece for oil strainer, is shown as Part No 266900.
item 14 - Oil strainer for pump, is shown as Part No 52182.
.

[123rover50]

Well spotted Arthur.
There are possibly a few mistakes if one took the time to peruse the manuals.
Do you need one of those?

While the engine was out I took the time to transfer the timing marks from the flywheel to the balancer.
Saves a lot of effort when one is by oneself. Trying to rotate the engine and spot the marks on the flywheel is difficult.
15 deg, 10 deg and TDC.

[123rover50]

The 1600 and 2000 Siamese share the same starter.
When the rubber drive coupling fails the starter has to be removed.
With the 1600 the complete starter and housing has to be removed because the starter will be fouled by the upper boss the oil filter bracket bolts to.
I guess in the old days the boss was removed with a cold chisel. Now we use an angle grinder.
This lets us remove the starter simply by undoing the one big set screw and sliding the starter out leaving the housing bolted to the flywheel housing.
Rover must have taken notice and with the Siamese they left the top boss off the casting so we can remove the starter easily.
When one is removing the housing it is easier to replace the lower bolt with a 3/8 UNC socket headed cap screw. Much more convenient to get to.

[1950landy]

Landy's going again sounds good but realy didn't find why it went down on 2 cylinders, now just have to wait for carby overhaul set to come to complete the job & see if i can stop some oil leaks. now i've toped levels up seams to be leaking more . There was a modifycation on the transmission to oil levels so will check that thats been done. Wayne

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , Did these modifications to gear box & transfer case oil levels today hope they slow down the oil leaks. :cool: also may have found what was wrong with Landy, she wouldn't start , ttaced it down to a broken wire between kill switch & coil. replaced this wire & started first kick. :D
Also that other split rim i got off you is 1" wider than the 1st two you gave me, must be off a later series 1 or series 2. mite start looking for a couple of std 80" rims for the trailer. Was a bit of a task geting the nuts off the rims , had to use a nut splitter on 5 of them. Wayne

[1950landy]

Ahould have attached this photo to the last listing . The inner rim is ok but the outer is 1" wider :cool: Wayne

[123rover50]

Thats a bummer. O well someone may be able to use it.

[1950landy]

Thats a bummer. O well someone may be able to use it.
I'll clean it up & clean the threads & give it a coat of green.

[123rover50]

Winched the 86 into the shed with the capstan on Jumbuck.
Lowered the engine in then pushed it back outside again.

[123rover50]

For an 80" I put the pedal grommits in as per the book.
For the 86 etc I think it makes more sense to put them upside down.
It keeps the felt side dry and the rubber does not get full of crap from the front wheels.
It also acts as a buffer and stops the levers banging on the firewall.

[wrinklearthur]

For an 80" I put the pedal grommits in as per the book.
For the 86 etc I think it makes more sense to put them upside down.
It keeps the felt side dry and the rubber does not get full of crap from the front wheels.
It also acts as a buffer and stops the levers banging on the firewall.

I have had this poser before. After wracking the demented matter I can't remember what I did at the time, I guess I would have invented something.

Cut a neat fitting particle board card to fit in side the rubbers' hole and put plenty of chassis black over it to seal it up.

I have seen 'Septone chassis black' at Super cheep.

Septone Chassis Black - 1 Litre - Supercheap Auto Australia (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Septone-Chassis-Black-1-Litre.aspx?pid=1411#Cross)
.

[123rover50]

Strainer on the fuel pickup was a bit daggy so cut a couple of inches off the pipe.
Got a cheap plastic inline filter, cut off the inlet side and hooked it up with a bit of fuel hose.
Easy enough to replace if it gets blocked and it catches the rubbish before it gets to the pump as the strainer in the glass bowl only catches rocks.

[1950landy]

:)It arrived today ,great model with lots of detail.1/64 scale Matchbox car size.
230mm long x 50mmhigh,found this one in Australia so freight wasn,t more than the model. I also spent the $200 I got for the genuine Rover bypass filter i sold on on ebay on a filter kit from Series One Club England should be here in a couple of weeks. Will do some drawings up . Wayne

[1950landy]

B)Hi Keith , Was talking to Col Philp (ex A&T) yesterday he said the roo shooter asked for the body to be left as it was with the high sides . I'll be seeing him again on Sunday at Lakeside I'll see what else he can tell me about it. I was going to bring him to the evening with Arthur but could not get hold of him , found out he was in England , came home on Monday. Is there anything you want me to ask him .B) wayne

[123rover50]

Umm. What does he know?
How did it get from Perth to Tassie to Brisbane?
Did they have fitted covers as there has to be a reason for the footman loops.
Did it have the cardboard surround around the steering column like the Gaydon one?
What was the white bar thingo we were looking at bolted to the screen brackets?
I have already overpainted the blue with Maroon and flat black as I think these were.
I think I have most of it worked out now but you might think of something else:D

[wrinklearthur]

Umm. What does he know?
How did it get from Perth to Tassie to Brisbane?

This was done in the days before roll on - roll off ferries. Where would all those old ships manifests ended up at?

The other thing is, how many of the 'Royal cars' were distributed around Australia?

The logistics involved in moving them all over the country, must have taken some doing.
.

[bobslandies]

Umm. What does he know?
How did it get from Perth to Tassie to Brisbane?

Did they have fitted covers as there has to be a reason for the footman loops. Yes, they did have covers over the body (like a tonneau cover) and the Crown plates had covers when they were being driven around without the Royal personages or others who considered they were similarly classy. The plates were removed and stored in a wooden box, slotted for the purpose when the vehicles were in storage.

Did it have the cardboard surround around the steering column like the Gaydon one?
What was the white bar thingo we were looking at bolted to the screen brackets?
I have already overpainted the blue with Maroon and flat black as I think these were.
I think I have most of it worked out now but you might think of something else:D

A friend regularly drove the two in Sydney and other Official Cars when they were controlled by DAS (Department of Administrative Services). I will ask him about them when he returns from an overseas assignment in the next few weeks.

Bob

[123rover50]

Thanks Bob, thats interesting. This has a loop at the rear of each door, as does the Gaydon one. There is another loop lower centre in front of the windscreen that the Gaydon one does not have, although the Gaydon one has a row of "turn the button" fasteners along the outer top of the screen.
This doen not have those or the "sharks teeth"
There does not appear to be any fixings to hold a cover at the rear.

Keith

[123rover50]

We got to see the crown the other night.
Here is our patron A.G. with his present from H.R.H.

[1950landy]

Umm. What does he know?
How did it get from Perth to Tassie to Brisbane?
Did they have fitted covers as there has to be a reason for the footman loops.
Did it have the cardboard surround around the steering column like the Gaydon one?
What was the white bar thingo we were looking at bolted to the screen brackets?
I have already overpainted the blue with Maroon and flat black as I think these were.
I think I have most of it worked out now but you might think of something else:DSpoke to Col , he could not help with any of the questions you & some i asked . But he did say as far as he can rember the dash wasn't painted blue . He said they came into A&T to have the paint repaired & thats about it. The paint was seight matched & the painter mixed up enough paint to paint his own car as well. Wayne

[1950landy]

Had email from Anthony today he was asking about the Royal, he was saying he has a colection of royal tour books with colour photo's from all angles . I asked him about the trim & the bar across between the windscreen brackets , he said it looks like it is chrome because it is shiney . I think it would be cheeper to make out of stainless pipe or polish some alum pipe. He said the trim was all blue . He is going to have a look through the books Wayne

[123rover50]

The tour books I have look like the photos have been colorised after so may not be the true colour. I have bought the blue vinyl now so thats it:)
You will be interested in this. Went to town to get the mail yesterday and a lovely maroon P2 four light turned up on a trailer pulled by a disco.
The owner has had it for 20 yrs or so and its been at Redcliff having the engine overhauled by a bloke called Craig. Its got the 6 pot in it.
I asked if he was in the Rover Club and he said yes but many years ago.
He now lives out at Comet and they were going to overnight at Gayndah.
He also has a couple of landies he takes on runs with their local Club.
I asked if he knew you and he said the name was familiar.

[1950landy]

:cool:I do know him but his name escapes me at the moment . Iwas traveling to Emerald on Saturday from Gladstone with work & saw a series1 ,on the way back I went around the back street to get a photo & there were about 10 series 1's lined up along the fence . While i was taking photo's he came out . He showed me his collection . There were quite a few series1's , a forward control wagon converted into a camper home , the disco the p2 ( had the head off at the time & a big, big, big shed full of landrover parts mostely series 1 . We had a cup of coffee & he bought out a photo to show me & it was of landy pumping water at comercial vehicle weekend. After that he rang me to tell me he had cancer & a very bad back & couldn't drive the L/R's & wanted to sell every thing & I thought he had died . He must have improved . I was talking to Alex Massey about him at the Arthur evening & he informed me he was very much alive& had gort rid of most of the cars & all the parts. Small world. I told Anthony that was the trouble with the books that the photo's had been coloured after & that you were doing the trim in blue . :cool: Wayne

[123rover50]

Does Trevor Kemp ring a bell?

[1950landy]

Look what i found under the bench at the workshop today:p. No had a couple of hours to spare this morning so thought i would have a go at making them:D. Now off to the sign man. That was his name , Trevor Kemp. Wayne

[1950landy]

They are actually the same size :cool: Wayne

[123rover50]

You have too much time on your hands:)

Looks good.

Seem to spend a lot of time looking for stuff then cleaning and painting.
At last I found the horn I was looking for. Its a Clearhooter.
Cleaned it up and bolted it on. Seems to work (after a fashion).
Could not get a replacement impeller for the original water pump so bought one from the mob down south. They are cheap enough and do the job. All the holes lined up after grinding a bit off where it was fouling the timing cover. I needed to press the pulley flange on a couple of mil further too to make it line up with the crank pulley.

[1950landy]

Told you :o, you would have to grind it around the timing cover but I had to open the holes up to make mine fit also:( . ( made in India i guess):cool:
Took the crown plates to sign man today , didn't give me a time will have to keep chasing him . Almost finished making the steel part of the jack handle for Landy. Wayne

[1950landy]

You have too much time on your hands:)

Looks good.

Seem to spend a lot of time looking for stuff then cleaning and painting.
At last I found the horn I was looking for. Its a Clearhooter.
Cleaned it up and bolted it on. Seems to work (after a fashion).
Could not get a replacement impeller for the original water pump so bought one from the mob down south. They are cheap enough and do the job. All the holes lined up after grinding a bit off where it was fouling the timing cover. I needed to press the pulley flange on a couple of mil further too to make it line up with the crank pulley.
:pJust filling in time while I am waiting for parts for the L/R , Jag & Mini:D

[1950landy]

Finished kack handle for Landy's jack today . Made it out of early R/R handle. Wayne

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , I knew I had some photo's of Trevor's cars at Comet. The shed was full of Landrover parts .:D You can just see the forward control in one of the photo' s . I didn't ge a photo of the S1 he had restored or the P2 because they were in garages & couldn't get a decent photo:thumbsdown: Wayne

[123rover50]

Here is the P2.
Its a Royal too. Same colour near enough and its got a sticker on the windscreen " By Royal Appointment" or similar:)

[1950landy]

Here is the P2.
Its a Royal too. Same colour near enough and its got a sticker on the windscreen " By Royal Appointment" or similar:)
This P2 was owned by the brother inlaw of the guy that owned the hire co next door to our factory & Trevor bought it off him . Wayne

[123rover50]

Dont use brake cleaner on your speedo. The numbers on the odometer disapear.
Lucky I could mix and match some bits.

[1950landy]

Dont use brake cleaner on your speedo. The numbers on the odometer disapear.
Lucky I could mix and match some bits.
There arn't any solvents you can use on instruments .:( Even metho takes the white off. In the old days when we did speedo repairs we had to wash our hands 10 times before handeling the tumblers.

[123rover50]

Drilled and tapped the thermostat housing for my new gauge.
Turned up a brass nipple to screw into the water pump inside the o,ring.
Install the short bolt first. Bottom LH corner then use it as a pivot with a lever in the top to compress the o ring enough to line up the other holes.

[1950landy]

Got Oil filter today . :BigThumb:Have posted it on Bypass filter spinon adapter. Will stop landy leaning to the right , about 15kg's in it , its a big lomp of aluminum. Wayne

[123rover50]

Got Oil filter today . :BigThumb:Have posted it on Bypass filter spinon adapter. Will stop landy leaning to the right , about 15kg's in it , its a big lomp of aluminum. Wayne

I read that.
We need photos now:)

[1950landy]

I read that.
We need photos now:)
Posted photo's this afternoon:p

[1950landy]

That oil filter adapter the guy from series1 club told me it weiged 15kg but the customs declaration states 3kg ;) Wayne

[Killer]

I thought 15kg sounded a bit heavy.

Cheers, Mick.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , What is happening with the Royal , You havn't posted anything for a couple of weeks . Have you had the engine runing yet. Wayne

[123rover50]

Been tied up with other jobs.
While slashing the rifle range the LH wheel brake on the Ford 3000 buggered up.
Had to take the wheel off. HATE THAT.
Still playing with fiddley bits. Dash gauges and switches cleaned and fitted.
Had to braze an adaptor up to fit the gauge and light sender.
Temporarily fitted radiator today to see if it leaks.
Should try and start it next week.
Top and bottom hose I used MACKAY 27EE9K 7087 cut down a bit.
Hose on inlet manifold I used an old Rangie hose cut down. Havnt found any wire hose clamps to fit it but.

[1950landy]

I hear you are going to Samford Show :banana:Wayne

[1950landy]

I have one double wire hose clip if you want it I will post to you :cool:Wayne

[123rover50]

No rush as I put a jubilee clamp on it.
See you at the show:)

[1950landy]

No rush as I put a jubilee clamp on it.
See you at the show:)
I'll take it to samford , I'll also bring a drawing of th oil filter adaptor.

[1950landy]

:oHa Keith , you'r prity good at making new body panels, do you think you could make one to replace this. This is whar happens when 10 faster cars dont finish the first race & are behind you on the grid for the second race & all want to go through the 1st corner at the same time as you. Well thats racing. So I have a job to do next week I guess:cool: Wayne

[123rover50]

Aaaahhh. Thats not too bad, a couple of whacks with a big hammer and it will come out.

[1950landy]

Aaaahhh. Thats not too bad, a couple of whacks with a big hammer and it will come out.
But it wont look neatlike the royal:angel:

[123rover50]

Put on a spare dizzie and the original 7 53 radiator and started it up.
Idles nicely but I cant get it to rev.
Seems to be not getting enough fuel although I stripped the carbie and rebuilt it all something seems not right.
I might swap it for the 1600 one off Tristan and see what happens.
Oil pressure seems a bit high for idle but unscrewing the adjuster makes no difference. Perhaps the ball is stuck.

[wrinklearthur]

I was checking out a 1949 80" the other day and spotted this, a wheel with the three posts for the hub caps.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=62273&stc=1&d=1372285827

There was only the one rim like that on the 80", someone had been there and scratched around looking for a part number --- doesn't look to be any there and the valve stem is in the middle of the scallop hole.

look carefully at where the posts are and you can see there are small flats stamped there.
.

[1950landy]

Put on a spare dizzie and the original 7 53 radiator and started it up.
Idles nicely but I cant get it to rev.
Seems to be not getting enough fuel although I stripped the carbie and rebuilt it all something seems not right.
I might swap it for the 1600 one off Tristan and see what happens.
Oil pressure seems a bit high for idle but unscrewing the adjuster makes no difference. Perhaps the ball is stuck.
May be the gauge is not reading correct :odo you have another to try.
Is the dizzy cam siezed can you hear the weights rattle when you rock the cam. When I did up my dizzy the other day I was surprised it had all these felt wicks down in the bottom to soke in oil to lube different parts of the advance system. I made some new ones out a sheet of felt & put some floation grease on the spindle where the cam fits. The sliding plate had also seized stoping the vacume advance from working.
When I did my P3 I got he valve timing wrong & the motor would start & idle fine but wouldn't rev. ( Rover could have had a better way of setingthe valve timing ,like a couple of dots on the gears would be much better .)
I've also had the nut come loose on the neadle in the one of the diaphragms so the neadle stayed in the jet & the motor wouldn,t rev.

[wrinklearthur]

Put on a spare dizzie and the original 7 53 radiator and started it up.
Idles nicely but I cant get it to rev.
Seems to be not getting enough fuel although I stripped the carbie and rebuilt it all something seems not right.
I might swap it for the 1600 one off Tristan and see what happens.
Oil pressure seems a bit high for idle but unscrewing the adjuster makes no difference. Perhaps the ball is stuck.

Check each of the parts one at a time on Tristan rather than moving them onto the Royal, that would be a lot easier to spot a problem if there are a couple to contend with.

If the butterfly is opening fully and the carby isn't letting the petrol through, it would be backfiring wildly with the engine at working temperature, so the problem most likely is a timing issue with the distributor advance retard mechanism not working as it should.

That's a worry with the oil pressure relief valve, I would have thought by undoing the setting on the relief valve, it would drop the displayed pressure on the gauge straight away so the valve could be stuck, don't suppose there could be a oil galley hole somewhere covered by a gasket or a couple of holes not aligned properly?

.

[123rover50]

Sucked on the dizzie and the diaphram holds vac OK.
While I was trying to rev it I rotated the dizzie back and forth and it made no difference.
Hope its not valve timing:mad:. I thought I was being careful about that.
Got to go to town today so wont be able to get back to it for a while.

[wrinklearthur]

Sucked on the dizzie and the diaphram holds vac OK.
While I was trying to rev it I rotated the dizzie back and forth and it made no difference.
Hope its not valve timing:mad:. I thought I was being careful about that.
Got to go to town today so wont be able to get back to it for a while.

Check the mechanical advance mechanism first, lift the cap away grab the rotor button and twist it against the counterweight spring tension and let it go, it should return back to where you found it.

But doing what you have done with twisting the distributor body, does suggest that the mechanical advance mechanism isn't the problem. bummer! :(

[1950landy]

What is the muffler like , it hasn't got too much back pressure.:cool: I do hope it's not the valve timing . I know what its like trying to do the valve timing on a IOE engine , I must have pulled the grill & radiator out of the P3 10 times ( about a 4 hr job) Rover never made a workshop manual for the P3 so I tryed using ^ cyl L/R , P4 , p5 , & a motor repair manual i found at a swap , all had different set ups. :mad: Arthur is rite your beter off puting the unknown parts into a vehicle thats known to be runing OK incase you have a couple of problems:angel: The other thing is make sure the points havn't closed up when you have new points with plastic rubbing blocks the rubbing block can wear & cause the points to close up very quickly when first fitted.:cool: Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

A few new chums reading this may benefit from an explanation of how to check for correct valve timing, so here goes.

Check the valve timing this way, remove both rocker covers ( there are two rocker covers in this case as this is for a side and overhead valve engine ) .

Take out #1 spark plug, turn motor over with your finger over the spark plug hole to find the compression stroke, then insert a piece of wire into that spark plug hole, move crankshaft back and forwards slightly to find exact top dead centre.

The rear ( #4 ) exhaust and inlet valves should be now be seen to be rocking at that point of top dead centre.

If you have a crank handle turning the motor over with only that #1 plug out, the compression will be felt on the other three cylinders so count off three of the compressions for those cylinders, taking note where the grip on the crankhandle is at the compression stroke on each of the cylinders with the plugs still in and then move the handle into that same position for #1, this is where you can finely set for the top dead centre using a rod or stiff wire.
.

[123rover50]

I am unsure of the workings of the lube system. I have left the bypass filter off untill I know the starter is OK. I have blocked off the pipe. Would this give excess pressure?
I would have thought the relief valve would have stepped in.
Perhaps once I get it revving it might unstick the ball if its stuck.

[wrinklearthur]

Perhaps once I get it revving it might unstick the ball if its stuck.

Be careful doing that, ----- better still don't.

You could end up with a hydraulic lock and bust the cog that drives the oil pump shaft. ( Have seen tractor pumps blow up doing that! )

I'll have a look at the workshop manual and the parts catalogue, see what is involved in freeing the relief valve.
.

[wrinklearthur]

The original first edition 1953 of the spare parts catalogue for the 86" and 107".

Land Rover Model 86 107 Spare Parts Catalog Original Issued 1953 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Model-86-107-Spare-Parts-Catalog-Original-issued-1953-/121119839337?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item1c334e1469&_uhb=1)
.

[1950landy]

I am unsure of the workings of the lube system. I have left the bypass filter off untill I know the starter is OK. I have blocked off the pipe. Would this give excess pressure?
I would have thought the relief valve would have stepped in.
Perhaps once I get it revving it might unstick the ball if its stuck.
I would not have thought blocking off the oil filter would make any difference, I think thats what every one doese if they are not runing a filter. You should be able to remove the adjuster & then use a small magnet to remove the plunger & ball. Just a thought , the top main bearings only have an oil hole & the bottom ones don't you havn't got them in wrong:cool:.
Didn't you use a different oil pump from the origional with the holes in different positions. My workshop manual shows two different oil pumps.
One for engines prier to 16102272 & 16131649 then one for 16102272 & 16131649 onwards maybe the oil holes are in different positions& partly blocked. Wayne

[1950landy]

:o the first 2 are from my workshop manual & the other 2 from my spare parts book. Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

Blocking off the oil ports for the bypass filter, may be ok on a old motor.
I am thinking that the bypass oil needs to go somewhere if the filter isn't fitted, so just loop the two ports together and try the pressure test again.

Most bearing shells have the oil hole in both halves, was yours like that?
.

[1950landy]

I had the sump off my 80 the other week to clean it out before fitting the new bypass adapter& checked the bearings while it was off , the bottom shel didn't have a oil hole & my P3 was the same . I know because I thought that all aearings had a hole & when assembling put one top one in the bottom & run a bearing, I was lucky it didn 't damage the shaft.:thumbsdown: Wayne

[123rover50]

I would not have thought blocking off the oil filter would make any difference, I think thats what every one doese if they are not runing a filter. You should be able to remove the adjuster & then use a small magnet to remove the plunger & ball. Just a thought , the top main bearings only have an oil hole & the bottom ones don't you havn't got them in wrong:cool:.
Didn't you use a different oil pump from the origional with the holes in different positions. My workshop manual shows two different oil pumps.
One for engines prier to 16102272 & 16131649 then one for 16102272 & 16131649 onwards maybe the oil holes are in different positions& partly blocked. Wayne

I cant remember if the bottom shells had a hole or not but I made sure all the top shell holes lined up.
I was going to swap pumps but ended up welding up the pump I broke and using it as the gears were in really good nick and did not want to scrap it.

[1950landy]

I would still check the oil pressure with another gauge in case yours is not reading correct.:(Wayne

[123rover50]

Might have the oil pressure sorted. Took out the spring on the adjustment. Started it and no pressure on the gauge but the light went out. Put the spring back with only 10mm of thread in the block and idle pressure is 20psi. I think the ball was stuck but still good pressure. I will leave it there for the moment.

Peered down the top of Tristans carby while operating the pump. There is much more fuel pumping than on the other one. In fact now it is not pumping at all.
Book says to check three non return valves. Two are easy and OK. The third is under the injection pipe. One is supposed to be able to remove it with its little plate after taking out the set screw. All I have managed to do is pull out the pipe. Might have buggered it. Any hints on getting the complete assembly out?
I have two other bodies and cant get the injector pipe from them either.
If that non return valve is stuck then that might stop the pump pumping

[1950landy]

[QUOTE=123rover50;1938998]Might have the oil pressure sorted. Took out the spring on the adjustment. Started it and no pressure on the gauge but the light went out. Put the spring back with only 10mm of thread in the block and idle pressure is 20psi. I think the ball was stuck but still good pressure. I will leave it there for the moment.

Peered down the top of Tristans carby while operating the pump. There is much more fuel pumping than on the other one. In fact now it is not pumping at all.
Book says to check three non return valves. Two are easy and OK. The third is under the injection pipe. One is supposed to be able to remove it with its little plate after taking out the set screw. All I have managed to do is pull out the pipe. Might have buggered it. Any hints on getting the complete assembly out?
I have two other bodies and cant get the injector pipe from them either.
If that non return valve is stuck then that might stop the pump pumping

[/QUOTE ] Lood to hear about the oil pressure. :p As far as I can rember the pipe is a neat fit in the carby body & should just pull out after the retaining screw is removed. Didn't you buy some freeze off if so give the pipe a spray & see if the pipe shrinks down enough to get the pipe out. Have you checked the ball valve in the accelerator pump isn't stuck or is sealing off when the pin on the acc pump diaphragm pushes it . I had problems with the nut coming off the pin once causing the same sort of problem . Another problem is if you have the control rod for the acc pumpfitted intothe acc pump leaver incorect . Also ckeck the diaphgram isn't too hard causing the spring on the control rod to compress instead of pushing the fuel.
:oWATCH OUT FOR THE MUD WASPS, they get into the smallest holes & block them up :mad: Also how is the float level.Wayne

[1950landy]

That ball valve is item "H" in the drg i've sent you.

[123rover50]

Screwed a self tapper into it and hit it with freeze spray a few times. Got it out and sure enough the ball was stuck. Cleaned it all up and put it back together. This time when I fill the bowl with petrol and work the lever it pumps fuel out the injector pipe.
These new springs for the diaphrams are stronger than the Tickford ones.
Moving the throttle lever here wont move the pump lever untill near the end of its stroke, whereas the Tickford one the spring on the pump rod starts to operate the pump straight away.
Might have to fiddle a bit there.
With the kit I put in new diaphrams and springs etc.
Anyway, hopefully that has fixed the problem. Wont be able to try it till Sunday as we have a shooting match tomorrow.

[1950landy]

Te other thing you have to take care of is removing theAir Correction Jet , if its tight it brakes the tower off the carby body. I glued mine back together & glued a tube over the out side so if it were to brake off while driving it wont fall down into the motor. I've seen others where the people have taped thread & fitted the jet lower down. Wayne

[1950landy]

Blocking off the oil ports for the bypass filter, may be ok on a old motor.
I am thinking that the bypass oil needs to go somewhere if the filter isn't fitted, so just loop the two ports together and try the pressure test again.

Most bearing shells have the oil hole in both halves, was yours like that?
. Maybe replacement bearings now have oil holes in booth half's but mine had a hole in the top only on the 80" & P3 . My 80 has still got the origional bearings in it that Rover put in in 1949, the shaft is std & I plastie gauged the bearings & clearances were OK, so i put them back in , My P3 was the same. Wayne

[123rover50]

Freeing the injector ball helped a lot but was not quite right.
Remember I said the springs that came in the kit seemed stronger. I pulled the pump end off and replaced the new springs with the older, softer original springs. Bingo much better.
Starter motor seems to be working OK so bolted the oil filter on as well.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith, I thought you needed a easy job on the Royal , all you have to do is work out how to fit these. I'll bring them to Samford . He also gave me 4 spares. You may be able to sell 2 to the guy in Adelaid with the other Royal .Wayne

[123rover50]

Woo Hoo . They look flash. Ill see you there. The bloke in Adelaide is not talking to me:(. We will have to see what happens.
Been trying to work out the front seats so getting ready to do some sewing with the new/ old machine.

[1950landy]

Hemay have his nose out of joint with you having a complete Royal;)

[1950landy]

You must be very bissy with your new/old sowing machine you havn't posted anything for a bit. You could get Ann to take a photo of you sowing:D that i would like to see:p

[1950landy]

Did you see how much those plug caps went for on ebay $122 + $12 freight . I was going to bid $50 . I just keep the P4 ones on for a bit longer ( the P4 ones are smaller in diameter so don't seal off in the head ) They were a stupid idea with the holes in the side to let the water in:cool:. I may find my old ones out & see if I can repair them. Kev Baker had some at aclub meeting once that had been repaired , they didn't look too bad. ;)

[123rover50]

Yes I had those on my watch list. I have a set for the Royal and sold a set with Borumbah to Mike.
Yes still sewing . Will post a pic soon. Getting ready to leave tomorrow for Samford.
Keith

PS The early ones didnt have the holes then they found condensation was a problem so punched the holes in. Some have one hole then some have two.

[1950landy]

I've been reading up on internet on repairing bakerlite, they use the radio & phone guys use fiberglass reson & mix black dye in or use boot polish to colour them. may have a go next week:cool: I've got my old caps somewere I think there up the workshop .

[wrinklearthur]

I've been reading up on internet on repairing bakerlite, they use the radio & phone guys use fiberglass reson & mix black dye in or use boot polish to colour them. may have a go next week:cool: I've got my old caps somewere I think there up the workshop .


I found this reference.

Bakelite - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
.

[Don 130]

And I found this

Ozrodders.com • View topic - Bakelite (http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42929)

Don.

[1950landy]

And I found this

Ozrodders.com • View topic - Bakelite (http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42929)

Don.
Yes saw that this afternoon .

[123rover50]

Its cold this morning.
Warm spot in the sun.

[1950landy]

Thats what I like to see , A man hard at work on the Sewing machine.
I'am restoring a1929 Singer Sewing Machine at the moment for Meryll , she wants to put it just in side the entery with all her antique sewing accessories on it . I pulled the cabinet apart this morning & started sanding it down Also regluing one corner where the veneer is starting to lift . Been looking up the art of shellacing its been 35 years since I used shellac. Not sure if I should pull the frame appart for powder coating or send it off assembled . Or I may just paint it with stove paint.:cool:

[123rover50]

Keep with the period. Should it not be a black enamel?;)

[1950landy]

Keep with the period. Should it not be a black enamel?;)
Yes I think they were baked enamel . Maybe I spray it black enamel & put some hardner in it , would be easyer & cheaper than powder coating. :cool: If I powder coat I will need to pull the whole frame apart so sand blasting doesn't get into the bearings.:mad:

[123rover50]

Sorting out the seat back.

[1950landy]

:DLOOKING GOOD! You can do the seats for me for the Mini [bigwhistle] Maybe you could apply for a job in a swet shop i n India making lounge covers for K Mart.:D

[Killer]

Kieth, I never cease to be amazed at your ability to do anything.

Cheers, Mick.

[123rover50]

Thanks Mick. I buy lots of books.
The results may not be to professional standards but I get a certain amount of satisfaction doing things myself.
The next carer of these can always change things if they wish :)

Keith

[1950landy]

As i've said before , your a CLEVER BUGGER:arms::arms::arms:

[123rover50]

Thank goodness thats done. Just the centre armrest to sort out.

[1950landy]

They pass inspection , I'll let you do the seats in the Mini :D

[123rover50]

Ha Ha. Ill pass on that. I still have the rear seats to do yet, by then I will have had enough. I will lend you the machine if you like.:D

[1950landy]

Thanks but no thanks. Its a long time before i will be ready to do the trim.
Meryll loves buying good bits of fabric , cutting it up into scrap & sewing it back together to make a quilt, but cant get her sew a button on my shirt :mad:
She did make the garters for the read springs on the P3 a few years ago , but said her sewing machine didn't like the think meterial.

[1950landy]

Ha Ha. Ill pass on that. I still have the rear seats to do yet, by then I will have had enough. I will lend you the machine if you like.:D
I should be able to buy a trim kit for the Mini like I did for the MG ,then its just a matter of fitting it to the frame. Unlike the Royal which is a one off:D

[incisor]

another accessory for you to knock up in your spare time keith

http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1014401_659954647366230_1395023716_n.jpg

[1950landy]

Workshop , Health & Safty will require you to have hand rails:o & they will have to be the correct height.:cool:

[1950landy]

Going to Kev's on Sunday with Brendan , will get some photo's of what series 1 parts he has & see if i can do a list & find out some costs.
Wayne:cool:

[1950landy]

Went to Kev's today , he had about 150 boxes of Rover & Landrover parts. There was a box with about 10 new Lucas head light glasses for 80" tractor lights , also a new head light reflector for a tractor light cosr $30, lots of new head light rims ( chrome & brass for painting) for 7" s1 lights lots of S2 & S3 tail , indicator Park light glasses. There was so many parts it was hard to look for bits. I bought a VRSH gasket set for a 1595cc motor & an engine set plus a 80" horn , total cost $25. He had some 2L gasket sets , one 2L VRSH set & transmission gasket sets . He also had a heep of 2L shim head gaskets.
Wayne:D

[1950landy]

Kev sold 10 new 80" spark plug caps to a guy from the rover Club for his Rover P4 for $40 , a bargin when a set of 4 sold on ebay the other day for around $200. He has some L/H & R/H landrover tie rod ends , valvers & guides ( not sure what model) & lots of Lucas parts.
Wayne

[Steve Td5 130]

Hi All

I remember that there was a Royal Landy sold at Auction 8 years ago
$25,000 ish
The Gentleman that bought it is Paul Freestone who runs a Melbourne Trucking Company.
After he bought it he removed the canopy from the back of the car so he could use it as a daily runner at the beach house on the weekend.

Not sure what he did with it.

Regards

Steve

[1950landy]

I've bought all the 80" tractor light glasses & the new reflector off kev ;)
I am al so thinking of buying the rest of the parts also , just have to work out if i will get my money back when i sell them.

[123rover50]

I couldnt get there.
Good idea if you get the stuff. Need some of those copper washers for the ends of the plug leads.

Not much happening on the Royal as trying to fix the brakes on the 6x6 tug. Boosters havnt arrived so having to go on this weekends trip to Rosevale as is.

All loaded , ready to go in a couple of hours.

[1950landy]

I dont think there was any of the copper washers in it but it was very hard to look through it all. Its not all of Kev's parts just his private colection of Rover & L/R bits . I make my washers out of copper shim . hope you have a good weekend .
Wayne

[Steve Td5 130]

Hi Gents

It would be great to see your Royal Landrovers next year
at

The National Landrover Show
At Melrose in the Lower Flinders Ranges
Starting on Easter Friday for All Landrover Owners
Brought to by
The Landrover Register of South Australia.


Regards

Steve

[The ho har's]

Hi Gents

It would be great to see your Royal Landrovers next year
at

The National Landrover Show
At Melrose in the Lower Flinders Ranges
Starting on Easter Friday for All Landrover Owners
Brought to by
The Landrover Register of South Australia.


Regards

Steve

I think Steve is trying to drum up business here:angel:

As you know Keith, we went this year and it was a terrific trip and event:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[1950landy]

I think Steve is trying to drum up business here:angel:

As you know Keith, we went this year and it was a terrific trip and event:D

Mrs hh:angel:
I thought the same:cool:

[123rover50]

I Know. It would be a great trip but towing anything there and back would be too much for this old bugger:(

[1950landy]

I Know. It would be a great trip but towing anything there and back would be too much for this old bugger:(
Not so much of the old

[Steve Td5 130]

Hi ALL

I did speak to my boss last year about hiring a truck and trailers from him to bring some slow cars:) from Melbourne for the event only problem would be we don't go North of Sydney.

Going through my little black book I don't know anybody that goes that far North that could help in transportation.

If you have someone that can drive a B Double maybe you could pool together and hire one :)

I think you might get 4 or 5 cars in a B Double plus have room for camping gear.


You could say I am trying to drum up Business:)

I know one man that stoked at the sight of so many Landrovers

Mr & Mrs H know how stoked he was to see the 101 last Year

Regards

Steve

[123rover50]

Hi Gents

It would be great to see your Royal Landrovers next year
at

The National Landrover Show
At Melrose in the Lower Flinders Ranges
Starting on Easter Friday for All Landrover Owners
Brought to by
The Landrover Register of South Australia.


Regards

Steve

Hi Steve the only other 54 Royal Review is in South Australia already. Get Patrick to get into it and take it along:angel:

Keith

[Steve Td5 130]

Thanks for that

I don't know him or how to get hold of him

[1950landy]

Hi ALL

I did speak to my boss last year about hiring a truck and trailers from him to bring some slow cars:) from Melbourne for the event only problem would be we don't go North of Sydney.

Going through my little black book I don't know anybody that goes that far North that could help in transportation.

If you have someone that can drive a B Double maybe you could pool together and hire one :)

I think you might get 4 or 5 cars in a B Double plus have room for camping gear.


You could say I am trying to drum up Business:)

I know one man that stoked at the sight of so many Landrovers

Mr & Mrs H know how stoked he was to see the 101 last Year

Regards

Steve
Would be a small double B , I could get 2 x 80"s on my 7m tray body truck :o

[Steve Td5 130]

I was leaving room for camping gear and whatever else you would bring:):)

Steve

[wrinklearthur]

I was leaving room for camping gear and whatever else you would bring

The Handbrake??? :angel:

[123rover50]

Bit more done this week.
The bumper has to go on first, then the valance panel, then the radiator support panel.
Next job is finish off and bolt up the mudguards.
The boosters for the 6x6 camper arrived so I guess I better get on to that job too.
So much to do, so little time.
Keith