1954 Royal Review 47160049

[123rover50]

I bought this home on the weekend.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/320.jpg

The story goes it was de-mobbed and sold to a roo shooter, then to a bore driller and has spent time in the cape and gulf country.
From Diana,s post in the other thread there are quite a few of these floating around so the identities may have been mixed up.
It seems this was sent to Faulls in W.A. so has certainly been around.
The bloke I got it from bought it to Brisbane from Mt Isa 15 or so years ago and it was purchased from a trucking company that had it sitting in their yard for a number of years. Unfortunately the name is now unknown.

Keith

[Landy Smurf]

still a really good find. my guess is there will be a bit of chasis repair or replacemnt. how is the firewall and engine?

[Landy Smurf]

does it have extra tabs on the rear crossmember for the tub? i thought there was only 4 but yours looks like there would be 5 or 6

[incisor]

great pickup!

[Lotz-A-Landies]

great pickup!It's not a pickup, it's a ceremonial/royal review Rover! :p

[incisor]

It's not a pickup, it's a ceremonial/royal review Rover! :p

one in every crowd!

[123rover50]

does it have extra tabs on the rear crossmember for the tub? i thought there was only 4 but yours looks like there would be 5 or 6

You are right in that the 80" has 4 tabs, then from the 86" on they have 5 tabs.

[pop058]

nice find, and I note the (silver :D) Sherwood gets a run as well.

[The ho har's]

Very nice and interesting find:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[newhue]

Keith, is that code for rare and exotic land rover restorer.

well done

[123rover50]

nice find, and I note the (silver :D) Sherwood gets a run as well.

Right on but only because the 120 Isuzu was blowing coolant and I have to pull the head.
Needed a run anyway:)

[123rover50]

Keith, is that code for rare and exotic land rover restorer.

well done

Mmmm I dont know about that.
I dont know if they are that rare. There seems to have been more made than we first thought.
But hey, old buggers need to keep occupied.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Mmmm I dont know about that.
I dont know if they are that rare. There seems to have been more made than we first thought.
But hey, old buggers need to keep occupied.Keith

I would think they are somewhat rare even if there were say 50 made Worldwide. 50 out of something like 16,000 to 20,000 86's in 1954's production still makes it only about .3%. More than that of the 10 that came to Australia we know that at least 4 of them had their review bodywork removed and even if they still exist as vehicles, they will never have the bodywork you have.

Diana

[juddy]

Keith

I would think they are somewhat rare even if there were say 50 made Worldwide. 50 out of something like 16,000 to 20,000 86's in 1954's production still makes it only about .3%. More than that of the 10 that came to Australia we know that at least 4 of them had their review bodywork removed and even if they still exist as vehicles, they will never have the bodywork you have.

Diana

50 made, thats more than, a 2B Firefly, a TACR 1, a TAC-T, A One Ton Civialin Firefly. Carmichael conversions usually 1 or 2 max per design.

Bloody things as common as muck.....

Have you told the Queen.....

[123rover50]

It should have the 2 litre siamese no 47100688 but has a 1600 No 16101596 with G,box 16101605. One would wonder why engine and gearbox were swapped.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/144.jpg

It has a 1950 carbie and DVX dissie. I have been after these for a while.
All the galv cappings are rusty. Presume from getting soaked in the bore water.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/145.jpg

Keith

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Keith

Given that the cappings were painted on the RR vehicles, I wonder if they were ever galvanised.

Is there any evidence they were gal at some time?

Diana

[Lotz-A-Landies]

50 made, thats more than, a 2B Firefly, a TACR 1, a TAC-T, A One Ton Civialin Firefly. Carmichael conversions usually 1 or 2 max per design.

Bloody things as common as muck.....

Have you told the Queen.....If there were 50 made, we know that there were 10 in Oz and AFAIK 1 in NZ, 1 in Malaya and some in the UK how many others would have been built in 1954? My number of 50 was a pure guess as a maximum number.

I just wonder how Keith is going to get it's main accessories, one Mrs Betty Windsor and one Mr Betty Windsor?

[123rover50]

Hi Keith

Given that the cappings were painted on the RR vehicles, I wonder if they were ever galvanised.

Is there any evidence they were gal at some time?

Diana

I thought of that too. No galv anywhere on the outside seems odd. I will pull some cappings and look under.

[123rover50]

Nope. No Galv on hinges cappings or windscreen frame. Probably to let the paint stick better. Only galv is on bumper.
Body colour was originally black, so was the chassis engine bay, firewall, seat boxes, black everywhere. Maroon put on the body for the visit then painted black again. This can be seen by rubbing through the layers.
Dropped the tank and black paint was there too.

[juddy]

Singapore. Malaysia. India. Hong Kong, Canada, Europe, to name a few locations of these land rovers having homes.....

[123rover50]

Singapore. Malaysia. India. Hong Kong, Canada, Europe, to name a few locations of these land rovers having homes.....


Yeah, Common as muck:D

[wrinklearthur]

You know muck sticks. :twisted:

So how are you going to stop everyone calling it muck ? :oops2:

I think I had better go now.

>>>>>>>>> :wheelchair:----------------:rocket:

[juddy]

Its lovely that theres still someone who will have the time and effort to restore.

So good on ya....a nice find.....

:)

[Killer]

You know muck sticks. :twisted:

So how are you going to stop everyone calling it muck ? :oops2:

I think I had better go now.

>>>>>>>>> :wheelchair:----------------:rocket:

Maybe Lady Muck would be more appropriate. Given her heritage.

Cheers, Mick.

[123rover50]

I thought it appropiate to post this in SLOw as Arthur Goddard is the patron.
Arthur was the designer of the 1954 Royal Review Land Rover.
Here is a link with some of the story.
Redirect Notice (http://www.google.com.au/url'sa=t&rct=j&q=1954+royal+review+land+rover&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&ved=0CEYQFjAF&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.abc.net.au%2Flocal%2Fstories% 2F2011%2F10%2F21%2F3345493.htm&ei=_clDUJnuHqqziQe694CQCQ&usg=AFQjCNE4rvlQpCZgfRXjdQB1-wGK8jCiFA)

Updated link.

Ride fit for a Royal - ABC (none) - Australian Broadcasting Corporation (https://www.abc.net.au/local/stories/2011/10/21/3345493.htm)
Keith

[wrinklearthur]

I thought it appropiate to post this in SLOw as Arthur Goddard is the patron.
Arthur was the designer of the 1954 Royal Review Land Rover.
Here is a link with some of the story.

Thanks Keith

That's a interesting yarn that Arthur Goddard gave.
.

[123rover50]

A photo of A.G. with the prototype.
Courtesy Michael Bishops web site.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Nope. No Galv on hinges cappings or windscreen frame. Probably to let the paint stick better. Only galv is on bumper.
Body colour was originally black, so was the chassis engine bay, firewall, seat boxes, black everywhere. Maroon put on the body for the visit then painted black again. This can be seen by rubbing through the layers.
Dropped the tank and black paint was there too.Thanks Keith

I always thought the original black was a very deep maroon, so deep it appeared black. When they were assigned to the GG the black was black

Diana

[123rover50]

I had a chassis lined up to use as a replacement but then noticed it had two extra large bolt holes to attatch the tow plate the same as a later chassis. It was an 86" but must have been a later build.
The Royal was built in late 53 and had the same looking rear cross member as an 80" so even though the other chassis would do, in the interests of keeping it more original I went looking.
I remembered this one parked under some trees a couple of hours away, had a look, negotiated a price and bought it home. Its a 54 with the same chassis and still with its siamese engine but the silly buggers had left it exposed to the elements and water has got down the carby and siezed the engine.
I remember this being parked there for over 15 years so who knows what its like inside. The chassis is good and I will pull the head today to see.

Anyone know what year the chassis changed from 4 bolts to 6 bolts on the rear crossmember?

Keith

[wrinklearthur]

Anyone know what year the chassis changed from 4 bolts to 6 bolts on the rear crossmember?

Ref no --- 4 , Description --- Bracket for towing jaw , Qty --- 1 , Part No --- 264522 .

Supplied as standard equipment from vehicles numbered:
86: , R.H.D. Home 57102760, ,year 1955
----, L.H.S. Export 57131995, , "
----, R.H.S. Export 57161177, , "

[123rover50]

Thanks Arthur. All my books are 80".
So 471,s are quite unique with the siamese engine and a one off chassis.
Wonder how many were built.
Keith

[wrinklearthur]

Wonder how many were built.

The numbers are on this link.

Land Rover FAQ - History, Production, Sales - Production Data (http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/FAQ.3.LR_production.html)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The numbers are on this link.

Land Rover FAQ - History, Production, Sales - Production Data (http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/FAQ.3.LR_production.html)Except that site is not correct in regards the 81" prototypes. There were no 81" prototypes. What there were is a batch of thirty three production 80" model vehicles taken from the MoD motor pool and sent for conversion as trials test beds for the Rolls Royce B40 series engines.

Were there 2 centre steer prototypes in 1947, what about the prototype #1 on a Jeep chassis which was the first built and wasn't centre steer. The forty eight pre-production vehicles, didn't that include the centre steer and were one consecutive series?

the first 1949 was #8663001 and last 1949 model was #8667920, leaving only 4920 built?

If the FAQ has those errors, how many others are there?

[wrinklearthur]

Except that site is not correct in regards the 81" prototypes. There were no 81" prototypes. What there were is a batch of thirty three production 80" model vehicles taken from the MoD motor pool and sent for conversion as trials test beds for the Rolls Royce B40 series engines.

Wasn't there a necessity to rebuild the chassis to accommodate the larger Rolls Royce engine?


Were there 2 centre steer prototypes in 1947, what about the prototype #1 on a Jeep chassis which was the first built and wasn't centre steer. The forty eight pre-production vehicles, didn't that include the centre steer and were one consecutive series?

And not all chassis numbers were for completed bodied Land Rovers, what about the chassis - firewall sets, that tends to mess up the numbers as well.


the first 1949 was #8663001 and last 1949 model was #8667920, leaving only 4920 built?

Sorry, I am not that old to have been on the assembly line at that time and be counting .
Is there a more accurate source of figures?


If the FAQ has those errors, how many others are there?

Definitely not accurate, but still is a good guide to follow until someone produces the next set of figure that can be verified. :thumbsup:
.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Wasn't there a necessity to rebuild the chassis to accommodate the larger Rolls Royce engine? Yes, there was a need to modify the chassis. The point is that it was done by modifying 33 already built production models after they were delivered to the MoD. I will give you the chassis numbers after I get home tonight.
And not all chassis numbers were for completed bodied Land Rovers, what about the chassis - firewall sets, that tends to mess up the numbers as well.If you look at your chassis you will see two numbers, one the build number is stamped by the chassis fabricating factory. What we call the chassis number which correlates to the Car Number is stamped when the component assemblies are fitted together and the almost completed vehicle rolls along the production line.

Chassis that make their way to the spare parts chain don't have the car/chassis number stamped. Even the CKD kits delivered to distributors like Grenville's or Annand and Thomson arrived in Australia with only the build number stamped into the chassis. This is the reason that A&T assembled vehicles have their chassis numbers in different places to those assembled at Regent Motors or Grenvilles.

A point of interest is that the other component assemblies like gearboxes and axles have their serial number stamped as they are built up into completed assemblies. This is why Land Rover's engine and gearbox numbers etc are similar to but not the same as the car number, where in marques like Jaguar all the numbers are (or were) the same.
Sorry, I am not that old to have been on the assembly line at that time and be counting .
Is there a more accurate source of figures?Yes the dispatch books at Gaydon and for the 80" our mates LRO53 and 260AC. Unfortunately CKD assembly factories like PMC make even the gaydon records deficient. e.g. the Gaydon records do not record any 6cyl RHD CKD SIIB (prefix 332), yet I own one and there are at least 140 332 numbers after my 33200327F. Probably making about 3,000 SIIB instead of the 2305 recorded by LR FAQ
Definitely not accurate, but still is a good guide to follow until someone produces the next set of figure that can be verified. :thumbsup:
.Always happy to have good reliable sources of information. :)

It is why the demise of Classic Land Rovers in Norway, lost us their VIN calculator which was more accurate for forward control Land Rovers than Clifton CalVIN, was such a shame.

[123rover50]

Pulled the head. Pots full but perhaps lucky 2 up and 2 down.
Gearbox and T box full too.
Eng no 47103609
G box 47103588

First photo shows all the rusty stuff in the back Any 101 owner want the plates?
Had a win with the bakelite Steering wheel centre. Did not know that was there.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Pulled the head. Pots full but perhaps lucky 2 up and 2 down.
Gearbox and T box full too.
Eng no 47103609
G box 47103588

First photo shows all the rusty stuff in the back Any 101 owner want the plates?
Had a win with the bakelite Steering wheel centre. Did not know that was there.Time for a cup of diesel or penetrene to sit in each of the bores.

At least the engine is the correct prefix for your vehicle even it it is about 3,600 serial numbers too high.

I've had a look and the engine does not appear in the Grenville books, but engine numbers of a similar century were fitted to vehicles sold during March and April 1954, about the same time your vehicle was carting Betty Windsor about! :cool:

BTW: All 1954 86" RHD were fitted with 4710???? or 4711???? engine numbers. The 4710 prefix relates to 1954 86" RHD Home (UK) market vehicles, so there are likely a lot of vehicles in the UK and Europe but very few 4710 would have made it out to Oz.

The 4716 number is 1954 86" RHD Export market (UK assembled) vehicles, so you would find a lot in Africa and New Zealand, but not so many in Oz.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Wasn't there a necessity to rebuild the chassis to accommodate the larger Rolls Royce engine? ...Yes, there was a need to modify the chassis. The point is that it was done by modifying 33 already built production models after they were delivered to the MoD. I will give you the chassis numbers after I get home tonight.The following (1950) vehicles from MoD contract 6/VEH/3569 are confirmed as being shipped to and converted by (Detroit subsidiary) Hudson Motors of West London: R06104331 MoD Tag 11BC75
R06104333 MoD Tag 11BC77
R06104336 MoD Tag 11BC80
R0610**** MoD Tag 11BC98
R0610**** MoD Tag 12BC09
R0610**** MoD Tag 12BC13
R0610**** MoD Tag 12BC15
R0610**** MoD Tag 12BC17
R0610**** MoD Tag 12BC41
R0610**** MoD Tag 12BC42It is likely that some of the missing 23 vehicles were from the vehicles between these known units.

[123rover50]

Time for a cup of diesel or penetrene to sit in each of the bores.

At least the engine is the correct prefix for your vehicle even it it is about 3,600 serial numbers too high.

I've had a look and the engine does not appear in the Grenville books, but engine numbers of a similar century were fitted to vehicles sold during March and April 1954, about the same time your vehicle was carting Betty Windsor about! :cool:

BTW: All 1954 86" RHD were fitted with 4710???? or 4711???? engine numbers. The 4710 prefix relates to 1954 86" RHD Home (UK) market vehicles, so there are likely a lot of vehicles in the UK and Europe but very few 4710 would have made it out to Oz.

The 4716 number is 1954 86" RHD Export market (UK assembled) vehicles, so you would find a lot in Africa and New Zealand, but not so many in Oz.

Have to make do. The only other siamese I have is this. 47109443
Its in worse condition and even later

Keith

[pop058]

Looks good, where do you keep finding them Kieth?.

Good to see the Isuzu is back doing the grunt work :D. and the Sherwood is kept for actual "Royal" duties.:p

[1950landy]

Hi , my name is Wayne . I have a 1950 Landrover 80" basic date stamped 10/49, it is fitted with a 3 man canvas tilt, rear PTO with drum , capstan winch , heater demister & trafficators. It still has its origional engine , gearbox & one of the diff's . I have owned this vehicle approx 23 years & it took 3 years to restore. Wayne

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , I had to join AULRO so I could view the photo's of the Royal . I hope you are not regreting me telling you about it .
Wayne

[The ho har's]

Hi , my name is Wayne . I have a 1950 Landrover 80" basic date stamped 10/49, it is fitted with a 3 man canvas tilt, rear PTO with drum , capstan winch , heater demister & trafficators. It still has its origional engine , gearbox & one of the diff's . I have owned this vehicle approx 23 years & it took 3 years to restore. Wayne


Hi Keith , I had to join AULRO so I could view the photo's of the Royal . I hope you are not regreting me telling you about it .
Wayne

Welcome Wayne:D

I have a 1950 build MY1951 80":)

Mrs hh:angel:

[123rover50]

Hi , my name is Wayne . I have a 1950 Landrover 80" basic date stamped 10/49, it is fitted with a 3 man canvas tilt, rear PTO with drum , capstan winch , heater demister & trafficators. It still has its origional engine , gearbox & one of the diff's . I have owned this vehicle approx 23 years & it took 3 years to restore. Wayne

G,day mate. Lots of stuff happening here.
Is that the 80 I sold to you? Its not 23 years ago is it? Time flies faster as we age:(
Keith

[123rover50]

Hi Keith , I had to join AULRO so I could view the photo's of the Royal . I hope you are not regreting me telling you about it .
Wayne

Not at all. Good idea joining the forum as it saves me sending emails to you on the progress:D

Keith

[1950landy]

Yes it was actuely about 09/1987 so that makes it 25 years. That motor looks almost as bad as the boat anchor i gave to Jim . I put it on ebay & didn't realise how bad it was inside . Jim asked me to drain the water out for when he picked it up , o my the water sludge in the sump & the white powder in the cylinders that was once pistons. I coiuldn't take any money for it But had some good bits on the out side so he got his money worth $0 Regards Wayne

[123rover50]

Attacked the engine, Had the bores soaking in diesel for a week. Removed the crankshaft today. All bearings standard. Scroll rear main seal works well. Not bad nick considering its been submerged for years.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Thats good news on the crank and block! :)

How is the camshaft? The lobes on them seem to wear quite badly, must be something to do with poor quality steel or the case hardening process. Yank ones never seem to wear any near as badly.

Diana

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , My 80's still runing the origional bearings it came out of the factory with & my Rover P3 was the same , after plaster gauging them & the clearences were OK so put them back in. Wayne

[123rover50]

Could not move the distributor or oil pump so poured in some drip torch fuel and gave it a bit of heat. Finally got the dissy out. I did not want to break it as its dated 11/53.
cant budge the oil pump though.

[123rover50]

Pistons took some moving but got them out eventually. Not usable:(
The main is eaten by electolysis with a bit of rust on the journal. Pity as they could possibly have gone back in as the others look OK.
Bores are still STD too. See what they look like after a bit of a cleanup.

[wrinklearthur]

Pistons took some moving but got them out eventually. Not usable:(
The main is eaten by electolysis with a bit of rust on the journal. Pity as they could possibly have gone back in as the others look OK.
Bores are still STD too. See what they look like after a bit of a cleanup.

I agree that the 'main' surface is too far gone.
Those pistons, are they the old fully ventilated type not normally found in modern motors?
.

[1950landy]

I measured the pistons i have & they are for a 1595 engine , I am sure I have some @L pistons to John Bradshaw & I dont think he used them . I think they were std & he wanted oversize . Thats bad luck about the shaft My P3 sat from 1974 to about 2000 with a sump full of water with out any problems ( car went under in 74 floods), just lucky I guess . Wayne

[123rover50]

The water level was so high it was pushing oil out the diptick tube.
Ran the hone through the bores, a couple are not too bad but looks as if it needs a rebore.
The left piston is a 20 thou OS from a 2.6. Apart from the gudgeon it looks as if it is pretty close. Perhaps the hole could be sleeved down and with a bit of gentle use of the angle grinder to change the profile and balance they might work.
Not sure on the availability of new 2 litre pistons.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The one to talk to is Ian Cox from Cox & Turner Egineering in the UK

Have you got any 3 litre pistons? the 3 litre bore is the same as the 2.6.

[wrinklearthur]

The one to talk to is Ian Cox from Cox & Turner Egineering in the UK

Have you got any 3 litre pistons? the 3 litre bore is the same as the 2.6.

Hasn't the 3 Litre got the same stroke as the 2 Litre?
The conrod's could be the same.
.

[123rover50]

The one to talk to is Ian Cox from Cox & Turner Egineering in the UK

Have you got any 3 litre pistons? the 3 litre bore is the same as the 2.6.

If the bore is the same, whats the difference?
No 3 litre pistons here only 2.6 from a few old donks resting here.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Not sure about difference but thought they may be closer to the 2 litre than the 2.6 ones.

Someone to try may be Master Chief or his dad Hilton Pollard, he even had a set of .060 pistons for 1595 engine so may still have 2 litre stuff.

The only 3 litre stuff I have is 2 complete engines, one just reconditioned and the other good running second hand.

[123rover50]

Hasn't the 3 Litre got the same stroke as the 2 Litre?
The conrod's could be the same.
.

Havnt seen a 3 litre but the 2.6 rods are slightly longer than the 2 litre and the big end journals have less width than the 2 litre.

Keith

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Keith I would think that you will have to use the original rods, AFAIK the Siamese bore rods are the same as the 1.6 and the spread bore 2 litre more like the later 6 cyl engines.

The 3 litre uses the same block casting as the Land Rover 2.6 and IIRC they have a longer crank and shorter rods to compensate. So they may be interchangeable with the spread bore but not the siamese bore 2 litre.

[123rover50]

I am a bit buggered now. I want to remove the camshaft. It looks OK but I cant budge the housings for the dizzie or oil pump so cant get the camshaft bearings out.

[wrinklearthur]

I want to remove the camshaft---------- but----cant budge the housings for the dizzie or oil pump so cant get the camshaft bearings out.

Hi Keith

You have most likely already done all this to remove the pump, but I will type up the procedure as written in the workshop manual.

1. Drain oil and remove sump. :zzz:
2. Slacken the locknut securing oil pressure adjusting screw, then remove screw, washer, spring, plunger and ball ( which may remain in the pump and can be removed when the pump complete is withdrawn). :mellow:
3. Remove the pump locating screw. ( part number 09039 ) :glare:
4. Withdraw the pump, leaving the drive shaft in position. :(
5. If necessary, withdraw the oil pump drive shaft. ;)

[wrinklearthur]

hmmm the edit button isn't working.

another bolt !

ref; 34 , ---- description; Oil feed bolt, locating distributor housing ,---- qty; 1 ,---- part number; 09052.

Failing all that, drive the parts further home using a block of pine and heavy hammer, this is to crack the bind and then try to work the housings apart.
.

[123rover50]

Thanks Arthur. Done that, all bolts are out. Giving it the treatment of heat then diesel a few times a day with a few taps to help it along. If all fails I will break the housings up and try and remove a replacement from one of the other blocks.

[123rover50]

Looking at other blocks as a likely doner for this doner I realised the other engine I picked up is a 2 litre from a 58 series two.
It is seized as well but may be of interest so will not break it.

Keith

[1950landy]

Ha Keith do you know any one that has liquid nitrogen that will also freeze shrink the housing also . I thought it was possable to buy a pressure pack can for that can be used for shrinking shafts . I 'll see what i can find. Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

Thanks Arthur. Done that, all bolts are out. Giving it the treatment of heat then diesel a few times a day with a few taps to help it along. If all fails I will break the housings up and try and remove a replacement from one of the other blocks.

Drastic measures, get the block stinking hot and then spray the inside of the distributor shaft housing with some freeze spray or liquid nitrogen.

'expansion and contraction, the most powerful force known to man'
.

[wrinklearthur]

freeze spray.

Ref; Freeze Spray (http://www.crcindustries.com.au/freeze-spray)
.

[1950landy]

I wish i hadn't given away all the extra P3 parts when i sold the cars . Had a couple of dist sleves & other parts yo are going to need . What did you think of the info on the CRC Freeze off .Wayne:(

[123rover50]

I wish i hadn't given away all the extra P3 parts when i sold the cars . Had a couple of dist sleves & other parts yo are going to need . What did you think of the info on the CRC Freeze off .Wayne:(
Looks interesting. Must get a can for next time when I go to town.
Keith

[123rover50]

I broke the pump:(
I should have taken more time and thought about it.
Remove the dizzie housing first by heating the block with 50/50 diesel petrol mix.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/543.jpg

Did this twice a day apart tilting the block to enable diesel to be pooled in the cavity around the dizzy housing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/544.jpg

Once the pump is removed the shaft can be tapped with a copper hammer and the gear will push the housing out the top.
I then used a 3/4" alloy rod to tap out the remains of the pump housing. It came out quite easily and if I had waited the extra day I may not have broken the housing off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/545.jpg

The next step was try the CRC Freeze can but I wasnt due for a trip to town till next week.

Notice where the pump broke. I can find no use for those holes as there are no corresponding holes in the block for oil ways.
I will try to repair by welding or sleeving over the holes.

Keith

[wrinklearthur]

I will try and find another pump for you, as replacing that broken part would be way better than trying to weld up the old cast.

As long as the block is still ok.

Now where about,s did I bury that '54 block?
.

[123rover50]

Thanks Arthur. BSFnut is bringing one to ABD tomorrow for me to look at. We dont know yet if its Siamese or Spreadbore.
Siamese shares with the 80" pt no 234310.
Spreadbore is 240651.
Though dont know what the difference is yet.

Keith

[1950landy]

Spoke to Collin ex A&T , he tells me the oil pump was used on other Rover motors & they used the lower holes to lock the oil pump in place :cool: We bought some Freeze Off made by Locktite but havn't tried it yet , will let you know when we do. Wayne

[123rover50]

Chassis time. Welded up some rust and after leaving the relay soaking in diesel for a week tried to pop it out. Came out all right, with the relay tube firmly attatched but.
Oh well, more welding.

[Landy Smurf]

i cant remember what the chassis looks like. but does it have an extra plate on the front crossmember?
and did they all have holes in the front of the front crossmember?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

i cant remember what the chassis looks like. but does it have an extra plate on the front crossmember?
and did they all have holes in the front of the front crossmember?Only if they had a capstan winch! (Or it was a 1954 capstan winch prepared chassis - Part No. 239861)

[123rover50]

i cant remember what the chassis looks like. but does it have an extra plate on the front crossmember?
and did they all have holes in the front of the front crossmember?

One of the PO,s has welded a plate to the bottom of the Xmember. Probably a rust repair. I will leave it there.
As Diana said some came from the factory with tubed winch mounting holes.

[123rover50]

The relay was also seized up. Pulled it to bits and found the shaft was a bit pitted. The fibre cones may be OK so cleaned up the tapers on the lathe to give a smooth surface again.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , Do you know the trick to resaaemble the cones & to compress the spring. You clamp one of the cones with a hose clip , drop the spring over the shaft then put a pin through the hole in the shaft . The pin needs to be longer than the diameter of the spring . Now rotate the spring so it winds down the pin, once its below the pin you can clamp the other cone with hose clamp, then wind the spring back so its siting against booth cones . Now remove the pin. you can now tap the shaft into the housing & the cones will slide out through the hose clips . You need to make sure one end cap is on before knocking the shaft in. Wayne

[123rover50]

Thats a good one Wayne. New one on me. I made a couple of the "C" clamps out of a slice of 75mm X 75mm RHS and did it like the book. These old ones have the hole but I dont think the new ones without the threaded hole on the end do.
Keith

[123rover50]

Pulled the head from the mollassis where its been for the last week or so.
I think the rust has got the better of the valve seats so I will look at one of the other heads.
The camshaft will need a trip to the profiler too. Its not too bad apart from the pitting. Never seen the copper coating before.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , I think you are right about the new ones . I have a book here some were with photo's showing how to do it with the pin. Ive never seen the copper on the cam either. I should have those rivets today I'll send you a couple to see if they are any softer than the ones you got from England . I've ordered 200 so should have a few left over . Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

Pulled the head from the mollassis where its been for the last week or so.
I think the rust has got the better of the valve seats so I will look at one of the other heads.
The camshaft will need a trip to the profiler too. Its not too bad apart from the pitting. Never seen the copper coating before.

I would be taking that head into a engine reconditioning place and ask their opinion about the seats as well, before you write it off.
.

[123rover50]

This looks a better one even though its been sitting in the shed for years.
I will leave it in the soup for a few days then take them both in for an opinion.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Don't leave a head in a molases soup too long as there are white metal plugs between cyl 2 and 3 that will disappear, then need to be replaced. This will also require the head to be surfaced.

[easo]

Very interesting read.

Easo

[123rover50]

A lathe makes it easier to produce the two front chassis bushes from spring bushes.
The outer tube is 35mm and the inner 46mm. These are greased and pushed in untill the inners meet.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

A lathe makes it easier to produce the two front chassis bushes from spring bushes.
The outer tube is 35mm and the inner 46mm. These are greased and pushed in untill the inners meet.Why?

The single full length bushes last longer.

[123rover50]

Why?

The single full length bushes last longer.
Single full length bushes dont go right through the chassis.
Need two of part number 263354 for each side.

[1950landy]

The rubber in the bush doesn't do the lathe tool much good . I can rember maching down series11 bushes for my narrow springs , burnt out about 6 parting tools & was using water to cool & lube. Going to ROAQ meeting see if i can find some P4 hub caps.:cool: Wayne

[123rover50]

Don't leave a head in a molases soup too long as there are white metal plugs between cyl 2 and 3 that will disappear, then need to be replaced. This will also require the head to be surfaced.

I must be missing something here.
I cant find these plugs to which you refer.

[1950landy]

Keith , The only white metal plugs i know of in a F head are the ones partly under the exhaust manifold at the front & back of the head. You can take them out & tap a 1/2" pipe thread in the head & screw a tapered thread pipe plug in . after fitting them you can grind them flat or grind some of the plug away to clear the exhaust manifold. I dont know of any other white metal plugs in the head.:angel: Wayne

[123rover50]

The ones at each end of the exhaust manifold are in the block though.
I cant find any in the head.
I have got the block in the soup now, so see what happens.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Keith , The only white metal plugs i know of in a F head are the ones partly under the exhaust manifold at the front & back of the head. ...Thanks Wayne

It looks like I have to go back to working on S1 again, I soaked a S1 head about 8 years ago and seems had a mis recollection of losing the metal in the places indicated at the circles.

Just went and looked at the soaked head and yes Wayne you are correct about nothing between the middle cylinders.

Diana :BigCry:

[1950landy]

I hope that molases wont eat the thin copper tube away that runs down the exhaust side of the block , the tube the small ports run off to cool the exhaust valve seats .Wayne

[123rover50]

I will keep an eye on it. I put an ally inlet manifold in the dip for 4 days and nothing happened. It came out as it went in.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Molases only seems to eat white metals, but will eat the zinc out of sintered bronze bushes.

We sat a whole s1 block in molases for a month or so that was originally seized, when it came out of the soup the crank and con rods were sitting in mid air with the piston rings sitting in the bore but no pistons and no chrome on the bore.

Diana :o

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The rubber in the bush doesn't do the lathe tool much good . I can rember maching down series11 bushes for my narrow springs , burnt out about 6 parting tools & was using water to cool & lube. Going to ROAQ meeting see if i can find some P4 hub caps.:cool: WayneYou should have used a knife blade once you parted the outer shell. But as I said the only time I would machine a bush down is to make spring bushes out of the long chassis bushes.

Particularly important for the SIIB as only the SIII front chassis bush is the correct OD for the SIIB springs. The closest option when you cant find SIIB spring bushes.

[123rover50]

You should have used a knife blade once you parted the outer shell. But as I said the only time I would machine a bush down is to make spring bushes out of the long chassis bushes.

Particularly important for the SIIB as only the SIII front chassis bush is the correct OD for the SIIB springs. The closest option when you cant find SIIB spring bushes.

I have never seen a long chassis bush for a series one. All my parts books show two short bushes in the front.
Can you give more information and a part number?

[123rover50]

Block has been stewing for a couple of days so hit it with the pressure cleaner. Lots coming out so to do a better job I destroyed perfectly good stainless core plugs to get at the innards better. Then back in the brew.

[123rover50]

Pulled the front spring packs apart, derusted, cold reset over an old stump. There was a wear step present so ground that off and put a bevel on the top side of the leaves to allow easier movement.
I normally remove old bushes with a long 1" holesaw but in this case the bolt was seized in so burnt it out.

[123rover50]

Used a moly oil mix I can apply with a brush to lube all the leaves, clamped up with G clamps and fitted new centre bolts.
Free camber of over 7" now as compared with under 5" before.

[123rover50]

Cut the outer bush with the hacksaw and use a specially sharpened through tang screwdriver to remove them. Most people know this stuff but there is a generation that have had nothing to do with leaf springs that may be interested.
Greased up the new bushes with moly and knock them in with the tool I made from a bolt and washers that puts the pressure on the outer sleeve.

[123rover50]

Fitted new centre bolts sourced from the local spring works. Notice the long threads and heads. Those heads go all the way into the recess in the axle.
Measured the camber and the two with the most will go on the RHS.

[bobslandies]

Hi Keith,

Have a look at this:

Queen Elizabeth II's car collection (http://finance.ninemsn.com.au/executivesuite/motoring/241253/queen-elizabeth-iis-car-collection.slideshow)

Photos 25 (1953 Land Rover Series 1 State IV Royal Review Vehicle), 26, 27(2000 Land Rover Defender), 31, 32 (Land Rover Range Rover - Review type Vehicle).

Bob

[123rover50]

Hi Keith,

Have a look at this:

Queen Elizabeth II's car collection (http://finance.ninemsn.com.au/executivesuite/motoring/241253/queen-elizabeth-iis-car-collection.slideshow)

Photos 25 (1953 Land Rover Series 1 State IV Royal Review Vehicle), 26, 27(2000 Land Rover Defender), 31, 32 (Land Rover Range Rover - Review type Vehicle).

Bob

Thanks Bob. Interesing slide show though they got a few of the captions wrong Humber as Daimler and Daimler as Rolls etc.
I have printed off the Landy pics off another website for reference but dont like the combination of Royal Blue with the Royal Claret but guess I am stuck with it. The Rangie with a tan interior and Royal Claret goes much better.
Keith

[123rover50]

Not much happening here just yet as waiting for parts.
Had some brake bits in the soup for a week. Cleaning up nicely.
The alloy wheel cylinder shows no sign of corrosion at all.

[Landy Smurf]

how much molasses are you using?
how much does it cost?
how often do you change it?
it is molasses your using right ?
otherwise ignore the questions above

[123rover50]

I used 2 litres molassis to 200 litres of water. First time for me too so experimenting. Others may know how long it lasts and wether it has to be renewed.
Buy from stock food place. Cheap as, but just forgotten the price now.

[Landy Smurf]

i dont really know anything about molasses, is there different types?

[slug_burner]

I don't know for sure but I'd expect that there would be some suitable for human consumption and a different grade for stock. But I'd say that it is generally the same in terms of what is required for cleaning rusty parts.

[Landy Smurf]

i know there is different types for human and stock but i wasnt sure if maybe different stock types, i have had the human kind it makes good biscuits

[easo]

Base product for Jack Daniels. I think Bundy too.

[Landy Smurf]

raw sugar is well how it comes naturally, white sugar has been filtered or cleaned of the molasses and brown sugar they add more molasses

[1950landy]

Hi Keith Going to set up a molasses tank at the workshop . Tryed the locktite freeze spray today. we were trying to press the crnter bearing off mk7 jag tailshaft . we had perssure on it & wouldn't move , hit the shaft with freeze spray & bang off it came, so it seams to work . Dont know if the CRC one works any better . Found some hub caps but the guy wants too much , there is a couple of guys around Malany with P4 bits , i'll try them. Wayne

[123rover50]

Sounds like good stuff to have in the shop. Might help on those semi floating wheel bearings too.
The engine builder would not use the pistons I was given and two of the bores have to be sleeved. I decided to sleeve all the bores back to standard as new std pistons are cheaper than OS.

[1950landy]

If you sleve it you could use second hand pistons & bore to size Going to try to remove internsl torrington bearing from mini gearbox today using freeze spray see how it goese. Am puting the door tops together today I'll see how the rivets I bought go may have to shorten them . :angel: Wayne

[ellard]

Hi there all

First tilme having a look in this section - but Keith what do I say apart its great to see another rare peice of histroy being restored.......

Although I will admit you have a big job ahead of your......

All the best

Wayne

[1950landy]

Hi Keith, How's the Royal going . My door tops are looking good ,just waiting for th canvas flaps to come from John Craddock. I'am having trouble geting the Bailey channel in Brisbane & it's very expensive so thinking of geting it from Craddock's also.
Geting the 80 ready for Rover Club's ( standard of excelence ) next Sunday at Ormiston House Cleceland , going to run the pump display. If any one wants to go I can let them know the details . Wayne

[123rover50]

Good Wayne. Didnt take you long to fix the doors. You can post a pic on here I dont mind.
Bearings have arrived so taking the crank in tomorrow.
Pistons still coming from Craddocks but they are without rings. Dunsfolds dont have rings either. Any hints on Aussie suppliers who may have standard 2 litre rings?
There is one mob I see in" Restored Cars" I will ring today.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , Sent this this morning but I don't think it went through.
J P PISTONS +61(0)88267222 email pistons@jp.com.au web www.jp.com.au (http://www.jp.com.au)
G S BURLING PTY LTD p/f (02) 9452 5784 Mobile 0412 228 235

JP Pistons are where i bought my P3 pistons they had them on the shelf . I broke a couple of rings when puting them in & sent them a efax & i had them the next day . I would think landrover rings would be more popular than P3. Wayne

[1950landy]

Hi Keith, Got the bailey channel from FWD @$20 a 2met length , the rubber shop wanted $ 178 a 2met length . Asked about engine parts for 2L said motor parts were a problem . Wayne

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hilton Pollard believes he has standard bore 2litre rings.

Phone: 02 4565 0212

[123rover50]

They arrived today from Craddocks and despite what I was told are complete with rings.
I am a happy chappie:)

Though looking at the skirts there is not much meat holding them together. The old ones had slots but not as much cut out as these.

[wrinklearthur]

photo's.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/52782d1351743191-1954-royal-review-47160049-ab713-1-2661.jpg http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/52779d1351743092-1954-royal-review-47160049-ab713-1-2658.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/52780d1351743111-1954-royal-review-47160049-ab713-1-2659.jpg http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/52781d1351743157-1954-royal-review-47160049-ab713-1-2660.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/52778d1351743071-1954-royal-review-47160049-ab713-1-2657.jpg

(Diana - Editor/mod hat on - the site was a display only. I have to view the image print to PDF and then in Adobe Prof snapshot copy into Photo Editor - There may be better ways to do it but not on this computer.)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

They arrived today from Craddocks and despite what I was told are complete with rings.
I am a happy chappie:)What good fortune! :)

They probably didn't open the boxes.

[123rover50]

DigiTool Stream Gateway Error (http://digital.statelibrary.tas.gov.au/webclient/StreamGate?folder_id=200&dvs=1351681263745~26)

DigiTool Stream Gateway Error (http://digital.statelibrary.tas.gov.au/webclient/StreamGate?folder_id=200&dvs=1351681307164~448)


Nope. All I get is "cannot process request- null "

Maybe it wont deal with mainlanders:(

[wrinklearthur]

There's no edit button showing on this thread, that makes things hard.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/52783d1351743443-1954-royal-review-47160049-ab713-1-2662.jpg http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/52784d1351743471-1954-royal-review-47160049-ab713-1-2663.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/slow-workshop/52785d1351743500-1954-royal-review-47160049-ab713-1-2728.jpg

[wrinklearthur]

I was at a loss trying to work out how to post those pictures on here, so many thanks for sorting that out for us.
.

[123rover50]

Thanks Arthur and Diana for the Tassie pics.
It is either 0049 this one, or , 0046.
Both went to Tassie, 0049 from Faulls in Perth and 0046 from Grenvilles.
Both are being restored and so far seem to be the only 86" Royal Review,s left.

[123rover50]

Halfway through the gearbox rebuild. Had to mix and match the rusty gears but I think it will work out OK.
Lots of threads on box rebuilds so wont detail here.

[123rover50]

[QUOTE=wrinklearthur;1789947]I was at a loss trying to work out how to post those pictures on here, so many thanks for sorting that out for us.
.[/QUOT

Looking at the photos, they take off the windscreen, but there seems to be a bar of some sort bolted across the bukhead using the screen mounting holes.
Anyone have any idea on what it is?
It can be seen better on the side shot but I cant expand it.
Keith

[Landy Smurf]

The Royal Rover (http://driven.urbandaddy.com/2012/01/12/the-royal-rover/)
i wasnt sure what it is if it was just the seal painted silver. But it does look like a bar.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , if you go to posting by wrinklearthur 1st nov the side view of l/R with 2 other vehicles & tower in back ground , you can expand it 400% & it shows a shelf that comes out to the front of the brackets it looks like a trough. Well i can on my computer by clicking on the star at the top right of the page than clicking to 400%.:cool: Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

If you go directly to the Tasmanian archives where these photo's are kept, then the resolution maybe a little better and allow greater detail.

a link to the general direction on here.

http://search.archives.tas.gov.au/de...ype=S&id=AB713
.
AB713-1-2657
AB713-1-2658
AB713-1-2659
AB713-1-2660
AB713-1-2661
AB713-1-2662
AB713-1-2663
AB713-1-2728

[Lotz-A-Landies]

If you go directly to the Tasmanian archives where these photo's are kept, then the resolution maybe a little better and allow greater detail.
http://search.archives.tas.gov.au/de...ype=S&id=AB713
.
AB713-1-2657
AB713-1-2658
AB713-1-2659
AB713-1-2660
AB713-1-2661
AB713-1-2662
AB713-1-2663
AB713-1-2728a link to the general direction on here.Although you will need to search for: AB713/1/2657
AB713/1/2658
AB713/1/2659
AB713/1/2660
AB713/1/2661
AB713/1/2662
AB713/1/2663
AB713/1/2728As the search engine doesn't recognise the hyphen.

[1950landy]

Anthony maeder tells me he has some P4 hubcapss for you . they are in Newcasle , he will pick up in December . He tells me they are free to good home .Is that you? :DWayne

[123rover50]

Hi Wayne. I am sure I can give them a good home.
Has he put that bronze knob on the Tickford spare wheel cover yet?

[wrinklearthur]

Ride fit for a Royal - ABC Brisbane - Australian Broadcasting Corporation (http://www.abc.net.au/local/stories/2011/10/21/3345493.htm)

[wrinklearthur]

LAND ROVER ROYAL VISIT LAUNCESTON 1954 20" x 16" 51 x 41 CM POSTER PRINT PICTURE | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-ROYAL-VISIT-LAUNCESTON-1954-20-x-16-51-x-41-CM-POSTER-PRINT-PICTURE-/280887250311)

[123rover50]

Thanks Arthur. You and Wayne are doing as much research as I am.
I hope I can get it finished in time for A.G. to ride in it on one of our SLOw picnik days.
Keith

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Keith

I keep bumping into these items as I am looking for photo's of early Hydro Land Rovers, not found anything useful yet to help me with my restoration of a 1955 86", as this Land Rover was originally purchased by the H.E.C. ( Hydro Electric Commission, Tasmania ), so I have given it the name HECter.

I've no luck yet with any photo's coming forward and not for the want of trying, see this message I placed on Gumtree.


Photo's Tasmanian Hydro Land Rovers, 1949 to 1959
Free
Broadmarsh TAS 7030 view on map
Date Listed:28/10/2012 Last Edited:29/10/2012 By: Owner Year: 1950 Mileage (Km): 1
Hi All
I am looking for copies of any photo's of series one Land Rovers as used by the Hydro Electric Commission, Tasmania during the dam building era 1949 to 1959.
I am hoping to base the restoration of a ex-HEC short wheel base 1955 Land Rover, to it's original fit out of Ladder rack, fuse pull pole and the identification logo's, as used during it's working life with the Hydro.

[123rover50]

Nearly finished the box but put it in anyway. Just need to fit output seals I forgot to get last week.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , I sent an email to my brotherinlaw in tasmania to see if he can find anything on the Hydro Landrovers & royal Landrover in Tasmania. He is in Longford & a member of the mens shed they may have some one that worked for the comission . HAY you've got all the good gear. Wayne

[123rover50]

Who is Eillemaur.?
He/she/it seems to have thanked every post in the forum

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Who is Eillemaur.?
He/she/it seems to have thanked every post in the forumAnd been banned for being a spammer.

[123rover50]

Along with estorwigs I would assume.
I dont understand the point of what they do.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

My take is that it is a spambot, that trawls the internet looking for forums and then by running a script joins the forum and then adds the spam ads to every area it can find.

I think this script has an error that can't identify the post button and mistakenly uses the thank button to post. Hence lots of thanks but no spam ad posts.

[The ho har's]

And no I am not a spammer;):)

That cleared that up, Keith, I was wondering the same thing:(

Mrs hh:angel:

[Lotz-A-Landies]

And no I am not a spammer;):)
<snip>But I am! :wasntme:

How else would I get to 12.5K posts

[The ho har's]

But I am! :wasntme:

How else would I get to 12.5K posts


ME:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Lotz-A-Landies]

ME:D

Mrs hh:angel:This is a https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/609.jpg

Yes but Mrs Ho Har, you're being nice welcoming everyone who comes through the portal.

I'm just spamming! :p

[1950landy]

i Keith , just wondering if you got the email with photo's of door tops :confused: Havn't been able to work how to put them on here yet . Will have to get son inlaw over to show me. Wayne

[123rover50]

Hi Wayne. No have not got it yet. It is a learning curve posting photos. You will get there.
Keith

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Wayne

When you open the post for the first time, if you go down below the text window, you will see a button "manage attachments" press that, "Browse" for the picture file on your computer select it and "upload"/

When the file name appears in the area below the browse and upload buttons you can upload the next pic to max 5.

Finish your text and "submit reply" - if you have a problem send me a PM and I'll try to fix it for you.

Diana

[123rover50]

ME:D

Mrs hh:angel:

And very good at welcoming too.
I rember when I first joined you were one of the first to greet me and it was much appreciated:)
First timers must get a bit put off if there is no reply to their first post.:(
Keith

[newhue]

And very good at welcoming too.
I rember when I first joined you were one of the first to greet me and it was much appreciated:)
First timers must get a bit put off if there is no reply to their first post.:(
Keith
for Mrs Ho Har
x2.

[Killer]

for Mrs Ho Har
x2.

She is such a social butterfly.:D Keep up the great work C.

Cheers, Mick.

[123rover50]

Got around to taking the swivels apart. Found one Tracta and one uni.
Thought I would post a pic as there are probably a few who have not seen one.

[Landy Smurf]

that is odd

[wrinklearthur]

that is odd

Not as odd as finding a Rover 75 car diff in the front of a 86" ---- 4.3 ratio at the front , a 4.7 ratio Land Rover in the back !!!

Keith, I'll keep a eye open for another tracta joint axle for you .
.

[Landy Smurf]

it makes you wonder why they did these things i cant say i found anything unusual in mine, the only thing i found of any interest was a shotgun bullet, but not unusual

[wrinklearthur]

Check out the change over point on the axle serial numbers as the Tracta joint is most likely a stray, used to replace a broken U joint half shaft.

The other thing is that the bearing used to support the Tracta joint on the diff side is a ball bearing and doesn't slide apart, unlike the roller bearing for the U joint that does.
.

[123rover50]

Yes Arthur. I think the Tracta is a ring in along with the 061..... 1600 engine and freewheel gearbox. An 80" has been used as a donor.
Interesting point about the bearings.
I thought the early bearing was the ball and the later the roller and that rollers would allow the half shafts to come out easily like a series 2 for example.
However one of the donor swivels I am dismantling wont or wouldnt.
Roller bearing but the cage enclosing the rollers is on the inner race. Couldnt get the halfshaft out, broke the cage with the press.
Another roller bearing has the roller cage on the outer race. The inner race is smooth so allowing the halfshaft to be removed without a press .
This must be the later type and the one I would use for replacement.
Funny thing is I only have one part number for the roller race 244150.

[wrinklearthur]

Another roller bearing has the roller cage on the outer race. The inner race is smooth so allowing the halfshaft to be removed without a press .
This must be the later type and the one I would use for replacement.
Funny thing is I only have one part number for the roller race 244150.

That bearing has the sliding inner as a integral part of it, I actually brought one new years ago and realised that the bearing retainer had to come off, to get the inner portion of the new bearing onto the half shaft. :(

I know that I would have made up a strap puller to remove the retainer, I have made these several times in the past to remove Land Rover and Ferguson tractor wheel bearings from semi floating axles.

Strap pullers have the strap ends welded to the retainer, the welding heat swells the retainer ring and they then come apart easily.
.

[123rover50]

With both these bearings the retaining collar has to come off to remove the inner race. Its just that with the one in the left photo the axle can be removed with the inner race and collar attatched. In the right photo the inner race holds the rollers so the axle cant be removed without removing the collar.
Even with your method of the strap puller welding to the collar destroys its function as the bearing surface for the oil seal so it will have to be replaced anyway. I grind through them.
On the other hand why have a seal at the end on the axle anyway, just let the diff oil mix with the swivel housing oil. Its all kept in by the hub seal.
Then you could reuse the collar you pulled with the strap puller as the welds would not matter. No seal.
Keith

[Timj]

The inner bearing on the Tracta joints is definitely different. But you are right, they should not be on an 86", they were only used on the 80". I believe that the inner bearing needs to be retained with the Tracta joint since it can come apart if not held, while a universal will stay together. The axle and bearing should come out if the swivel housing is taken off, then the bearing can be pressed off. In the series one section there is a sticky on parts numbers and I listed the part number for an alternative bearing in there when I did mine. The housing for the universal joint is also slightly different with more clearance for the joint but the Tracta joint fits into it, just the universal won't fit into an earlier housing.

Cheers,

TimJ.

[123rover50]

The swivel housing that had the Tracta joint also had this early outer housing. On the left. No drain plug.

[123rover50]

Found a reasonable chrome ball and fitted the original top swivel to it with a new bearing on the bottom.

[wrinklearthur]

By pressing the cup out and turning it, that shares the wear around the cup.

Make sure you watch that the cones spring doesn't bind when you do the preload.
Do you need a good swivel pin outer (free) and if so which side as I have several spares for 86's?

I can E-Go it up there, if you want one quickly.
.

[123rover50]

[QUOTE=wrinklearthur;1797624]By pressing the cup out and turning it, that shares the wear around the cup.

Make sure you watch that the cones spring doesn't bind when you do the preload.
Do you need a good swivel pin outer (free) and if so which side as I have several spares for 86's?

I can E-Go it up there, if you want one quickly.

Thanks Arthur but I am OK for housings.
When I pushed the cup from the rusty ball I did not note which way it was in. So have to take pot luck which way it is in the replacement
I got some new springs from the mob in Melb. They are square section and far too stiff. It gets over 8lbs while still a 1/4" gap, and thats with a bunch of shims in the bottom too. So have gone back to the original springs as they still measure over the inch.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , I was thinking after talking with you on Tuesday , I recon at some time the rteering arm threads have pulled out of the origional hub & somebody has got hold of a 80" hub assembly & fited the lot. As I said when I was looking for hubs all hhe 80" hubs had striped or briken studs holding the arms. Had a good day up there with you :DWayne

[B.S.F.]

I got some new springs from the mob in Melb. They are square section and far too stiff. It gets over 8lbs while still a 1/4" gap, and that's with a bunch of shims in the bottom too. So have gone back to the original springs as they still measure over the inch.[/QUOTE]

Could it be that you're mixing parts? W.
L/r workshop manual 4291

[123rover50]

Wally , you have some interesting Workshop Manuals. Confusing.
I am using TP165A First Edition Jan 1954.
It makes no mention of different springs but I will measure the pins later.
It says the resistance of the swivel pins should be 7 to 8 lbs.
I understood this to be the figure for the cone and spring swivel and the higher figure your book quotes is for the Railco.:(

Ok ,looking at parts books my Jan 52 lists the spring as 230869 up to 52
Parts book TP155E Part no 4107 June 56 lists only one spring 242742 for 86, 88 107, 109.

That 14 - 16 lbs is a high reading eh.
O well, sort it next week got to go to town tomorrow and shooting all weekend.

Keith

[123rover50]

Had a quick look.
The length of the pin is 1.218" but not 25.5 mm. Its more like 31mm:(
Actually the length of the pin will not affect the preload. It would be altered if the length of the boss above the splines changed but it is the same for both. It just means the spline goes through the cone a bit more or less.

[B.S.F.]

Agreed,but the thickness of the cone is different too between a 80" and the rest of the S1 s. Wouldn't that affect the spring?
I think the short pins were used so as not to interfere with the UJ. I notice they also machined the inside of the balls to accommodate the UJs on models 54-58. W.

[123rover50]

If the cone was thicker it would. I have some cones from an 80" and they all look the same so may have been swapped at some time. Does your manual show the differences in the cone dimensions?
K

[123rover50]

On the Tickford I have a slight leak from the lower swivel pin. It must come past the shims.
Here I am machining a groove for an O ring that should cure this.

[B.S.F.]

If the cone was thicker it would. I have some cones from an 80" and they all look the same so may have been swapped at some time. Does your manual show the differences in the cone dimensions?
K

The dimensions are shown in the first attachment of my first post.A bit hard to read.
48-53 25.4mm
54-58 23.8mm

W.

[123rover50]

Thanks. I see it now. I put it through the printer. I wonder why that is not in all the manuals.
Another thing to be aware of is the 2 special studs on the top steering arm. One of the arms only had the standard studs fitted all round. This could lead to movement. The special studs have larger shanks to be an interference fit in opposite corners. This eliminates potential movement.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , My parts book for 1957-58 showa one special studs per side & 3 std studs but my series2 &2a shows 4 special studs per side. They must of had a few goese to fix the problem with the arms coming loose . As I said my 80 had 3/8" studs which were changed to 1/2" & then they started using the special studs :cool: Wayne

[123rover50]

Dont do what I did.
Check housing first.
Had the swivels on and noticed the outer half shaft was hard against the stub.
Bent axle?
Pulled it all to bits and clamped a couple of straight edges on the flanges.
40mm difference.
Pulled the diff and put the doner front housing in after checking it was straight.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , Looks like 1 step forward 2 steeps back :cool:. You'll get there in the end , I have faith in you. thats why I offered it to you to restore . Was going to come up this week for the wheel but the hail stoped that idea. 5 cars & 3 houses damaged ,( none of the old ones ) so won't be up untill new year after every thing settles down . Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

------- Pulled it all to bits and clamped a couple of straight edges on the flanges. ----- 40mm difference.
Pulled the diff and put the doner front housing in after checking it was straight.

I wonder if this method to check for a bent housing would be accurate enough, as it depends on the sensitivity of the level ?

Place a land rover brake drum face up on a hard level surface.

Using a spirit level, try the surface of the brake drum to check that it is absolutely level in all directions.

Then stand the empty housing on it's end on top of the face of that brake drum and then using the spirit level again, try the other end of the housing.

When the level bubble stays in the middle you have a good housing, but if the bubble runs towards one end there is a problem and I would be looking for another housing.
, --------

Another way to check for a bent housing is to use a string line and plume bob, dropped through the housing .

From the centre at the top end down to the centre at the bottom, the string should run through the centre of where the half shafts sit in the diff carriage,

Using a string line isn't my choice of trying as it is too touchy to set up and get a accurate measurement, unless some tapered plugs are made to centre the line in both ends of the housing.
.

.

[123rover50]

Hi Arthur.
Didnt use a level.
Clamped the straight edges to the flanges at the ends of the housing after removing the swivel housings. As long as the flanges are clean if the axle is bent in any way the straight edges will no longer be parallel I measured the difference with a tape.
Been working on the 6x6 FC this last week and have to do the Hand brake on the Isuzu 120" today.
With six registered Landies there is lots to do.
Keith

Sorry , reading your post again, you were giving me another method of checking. I thought you thought I used a level.
( cant find a smiley)

[1950landy]

Hi Keith, Filled up mollassis tank today. Have put in a Cooper S rim & a Jag master cylinder , will leave over the weekend & see what its like monday. May save me geting them sand blasted. Wayne

[123rover50]

Hi Wayne . Its a SLOw process:D

You may find it takes a bit longer.


After much deliberation, I bought some paint yesterday.

[1950landy]

If you use a black primer it should come out darker . I beleave Rover used Black primer on all there early Landrovers it gives yhe paint depth .he 1st time i painted my 80 I used black etch primer & the paint colour was correct for 49/50 . The second time Was a bit of a rush to get it ready for the Brisbane motor Show & i used a gray primer & it came out like a 52 model. Wayne

[123rover50]

Colour is a hard one.
Should it be darker?
Photos taken at Gaydon on the other Royal thread gave me the match for this. I dont know how a flash affects the shade or how it comes up on a screen.

http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13612.0;attach=218 73;image (http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13612.0;attach=218 72;image)

Mmmmm, wont copy picture . You will have to click on it.
Keith

[123rover50]

Via photobucket

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/936.jpg

[1950landy]

Try painting it over black primer :cool: its amasing what a difference the primer colour makes. Any way its too hot to be working on Landrovers better to sit in the shade & have a cold drink. Wayne

[123rover50]

Nahh. Only got grey primer. I think its a good match the way it is.
Any other opinions?

Keith

[Lionelgee]

G'day Keith,

I was watching the best of Landline on ABC TV on Sunday and in the segment Can't stop the presses originally Broadcast: 19/02/2012 4:30:01 PM Reporter: Kerry Staight around the 6:03 minute mark it shows a shot of the Queen waving from a specially built Land Rover. Don't blink too much as it is not on very long. Maybe you could contact the ABC to see where they go the footage from?
http://www.abc.net.au/landline/content/2012/s3434308.htm (http://www.abc.net.au/landline/content/2012/s3434308.htm) The link is a bit unfriendly as it does not let you grab the icon and flick forwards to the right spot.

By the way there is a link at the Australian National Museum's project to restore one of the Royal Daimlers
http://nma.gov.au/blogs/daimler (http://nma.gov.au/blogs/daimler)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[1950landy]

Just found this site when looking for colour photoes . Google Queen Elizabeth 11 official car around 1950s . there is a good vido of a 54 LR doesn't seam to have a wind screen but is a bit fast to see the top of the fire wall. Some good shots of the back. Wayne

[123rover50]

This is the Gaydon one.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/936.jpg

This I painted this morning before it got too hot.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/957.jpg

Keith

[1950landy]

Not a bad match , the blue looks a better colour than the origional. Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

Hi All

In this photo there is a couple of points of interest to me.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/936.jpg

The extra instrument fitted dosn't seem to have the panel pass over at the bottom onto the tray front, or is that some trim along the front of the parcel tray?

Indicator stalk on the left hand side, like the Defenders !

Those wiper motors, weren't they introduced in 1959, so does that suggest this particular Land rover was built in that year given that the paint on the wiper motor casings is same as the window screen frame?

And that's a ball shaped gear stick knob.

If those points I have mentioned have been fitted since, does that mean Keith's restoration has the potential to upset the Gaydon example?

.

[123rover50]

Hi Arthur.
Michael Bishop said this one at Gaydon had a few non standard items.
Pork pie tail lights instead of D lights.
They have replaced the Steering wheel centre with a later one so putting the horn etc on a stalk instead of the wheel centre.
The gear lever is also longer than the standard 54 one.
Whether this last is a Royal fitment I dont know.
Both glove boxes are lined in something with the drivers covered completely up the column.
I will try to replicate this but also have the proper D lights and the horn etc in the wheel centre.
As you say , its got later wiper motors.
Its also got a chrome plated bumper whereas the Aussie ones are galv.
I quite like the look of the chrome but.:)

Keith

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , They may ont have wipers , would not have been needed, Cant imagine Her standing in the back in the rain . Wiper motors may hace been fitted at later date for rego. I also thought the early series1's were available with out wipers & rover sold them as an extra ( i may be wrong) The parcel shelf looks like black vinal. Would have posted the Rover bike on here but havn't worked out how to do it yet , still waiting for son in law to come over to work it out. Wayne

[1950landy]

Me again , I had a early series 1 screen that had no holes for for the wiper motors thats what makes think they were a extra . The Australian royals didn't have windscreens so no need for wipers :cool: Wayne

[123rover50]

Hi Keith , They may ont have wipers , would not have been needed, Cant imagine Her standing in the back in the rain . Wiper motors may hace been fitted at later date for rego. I also thought the early series1's were available with out wipers & rover sold them as an extra ( i may be wrong) The parcel shelf looks like black vinal. Would have posted the Rover bike on here but havn't worked out how to do it yet , still waiting for son in law to come over to work it out. Wayne

Posted the bike for you in Marketplace alerts.
We will be away at Sunshine Coast Landy owners meet all weekend.
Leaving now.
Keith

[1950landy]

I hope ypu all had a good weekend :) Wayne

[123rover50]

Prepared the lower tub and bolted up.
Sketched outline for outer panel wheel arch.

[1950landy]

i Keith , Looking good, Wish I could get that motivated about restoring the mini what brand is that primer you are useing , looks almost black. Did you get the freeze off yet, I've used a number of times lately with great success. Had to remove piston out of Jag mk7 wheel cylinder other day soked in CRC for 2 days & wouldn't move , quick spray with freeze off waited a minute & out it came :)

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Keith

I'm keen to see how you do that panel, but the 2.5mm sheet aluminium I have here, looks to be way too thick, is 1.6mm a better size thickness for the Land rover body work?
.

[123rover50]

i Keith , Looking good, Wish I could get that motivated about restoring the mini what brand is that primer you are useing , looks almost black. Did you get the freeze off yet, I've used a number of times lately with great success. Had to remove piston out of Jag mk7 wheel cylinder other day soked in CRC for 2 days & wouldn't move , quick spray with freeze off waited a minute & out it came :)

Not bought the Freeze off yet.
The primer was the goldy primer filler and I did a light coat of black topcoat over it to hold it for the moment.
Keith

[123rover50]

Hi Keith

I'm keen to see how you do that panel, but the 2.5mm sheet aluminium I have here, looks to be way too thick, is 1.6mm a better size thickness for the Land rover body work?
.
The outer panel on the original is the imperial equivalent of 1 mm so I am picking up a couple of sheets tomorrow. It has to be thin enough to squeeze under the top capping alongside the existing panel. Cant quite get the 2 sides from 1 sheet.
I have not done this before but I will cut a former from 3/4 ply , clamp the alloy to it and try some gentle tapping.
This has to be done before I put in the seat box and tank as I have to get to the 3 bolts that hold the side panel to the door sill.
Keith

[slug_burner]

are you getting the sheet in hard or soft?

[123rover50]

I asked that but he didnt give a definitive answer. Sort of semi hard/ semi soft. See how it goes , may have to anneal it.

[slug_burner]

Just need to anneal the area you are working on. You'll want the panel to be as hard as the rest of the panels otherwise your new panel will dint too easily. Just a stab as I have never worked ally into panels.

[wrinklearthur]

I asked that but he didnt give a definitive answer. Sort of semi hard/ semi soft. See how it goes , may have to anneal it.

Because of the expense of owning a oxy acetylene set, they are not as easy to find now.
I am wondering if the Primus gas torches have sufficient heat to anneal the aluminium.
.

[123rover50]

Got Oxy but did not have to use it. It worked quite well.

Keith

[1950landy]

Clever bugger arn't you. :cool: Have a good Christmas Wayne

[Landy Smurf]

I have always wanted to try it and now i think i will

[123rover50]

Clever bugger arn't you. :cool: Have a good Christmas Wayne

You too. catch up in the new year.
Keith

[Quigley]

I saw those two new panels yesterday and they really are a work of art. Well done Keith.
Hayden

[wrinklearthur]

Merry Christmas .

[123rover50]

Lower body cappings on and seat brackets. Notice the latter does not have the punched hole that is usually there.
Dont know if that is peculiar to the "Royal" or just early 54,s.
Same with the striker plate support bracket. Later ones are reinforced with a brace.
Keith

[123rover50]

Merry Christmas .

And a healthy and prosperous New Year:D

[123rover50]

Fabbed up the bumper but havnt cut the crank hole yet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/112.jpg

Thought the chrome bumper on the Gaydon one looked pretty smart and was considering doing the same.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/113.jpg

Then thought perhaps I should keep it true to the way the Aussie ones were with a galv bumper as the Gaydon one has a few things not original too it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/114.jpg

What do you all think.
Galv or Chrome?

Keith

[slug_burner]

If your going to put chrome hub caps on then you need the chrome bumper:)

It comes down to how faithful a restoration you are going for!

[wrinklearthur]

Lower body cappings on and seat brackets. Notice the latter does not have the punched hole that is usually there.
Dont know if that is peculiar to the "Royal" or just early 54,s.
Same with the striker plate support bracket. Later ones are reinforced with a brace. Keith

I remember welding those door striker plate mounts up on the 'Farms' '54 86" they used to break and when I brought my first car '55 86", the striker plate mount was a lot stronger with the extra strap factory welded across it.

The punched holes I'll have to think about.
.

[wrinklearthur]

If your going to put chrome hub caps on then you need the chrome bumper:)

It comes down to how faithful a restoration you are going for!

Chrome !!!!

A hard wearing protective surface.

How are you off for P4 hub caps?
.

[123rover50]

Chrome !!!!

A hard wearing protective surface.

How are you off for P4 hub caps?
.

1950 landy has a mate that may be bringing some hubcaps up so will see what happens.
Keith

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , As I said clever bugger, Bumper looks good. :BigThumb:If Anthony doesn't come up with the hub caps Kev Baker says he has some. Chrome on the bumper would look good but expensive . may be powder coating woyld be ok . Have a good New Year .:spudnikparty: Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Keith , As I said clever bugger, Bumper looks good. :BigThumb:If Anthony doesn't come up with the hub caps Kev Baker says he has some. Chrome on the bumper would look good but expensive . may be powder coating woyld be ok . Have a good New Year .:spudnikparty: Wayne
Has anyone had a bumper bar done recently?
I have the front and back bumpers to get done off the wife's '56 Chevy http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=54975&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1356954609 and I'm wondering about how much to expect.
.

[123rover50]

Arthur, I have just been told that the holes in the seat base brackets are for locating pegs in the 107 one piece back rest.

I went to a chrome shop on the Sunshine Coast and described my bumper.
They quoted around $500.00.
There is another specialist bumper plating place in Brisbane I will take the bits to for another quote.

Keith

[wrinklearthur]

Our hobby's cost a bit don't they?
But all hobby's do, a fitted golf club can cost about $500 as well.

There is only one part number 303714 in my 3rd edition copy of the 4107 Parts Catalogue.
I wonder if there are any 1st editions still about?
The message inside the front cover of my 2nd Revision October, 1961 copy states;
TECHNICAL PUBLICATION No TP155/E
This publication supersedes the 3rd edition, Publication No. TP155/C, which should be destroyed
This same style of message is also inside the 3rd edition.

I have very little to do with 107's apart from helping a owner source 11" brakes to replace his woeful 10" original fitment ones, I do remember a one piece seat back, but didn't realise it was a factory fitment, checked the 4107 and found two part numbers under Cab Delux Trim, P185/plate ref16;
Rear squab complete, trimmed in Plastic, P/No 306175.
Rear squab complete, trimmed in Viscose, P/No 267681.
.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith . The more I look at the bumper on the Gaydon Royal it looka like its made out of polished aluminum ,it doesn't look shiney enough tfor chrome . Aluminum may have been a cheeper than chrome. My 80" when I bought it off you had a aluminum bumper.I've got some good photo's of 107 front & rear seats with bench seat squabs &3 peace seats & also rear step & darn door out of the" Origional Landrover " I will post them when my son inlaw comes over & shows me how. I'am not good with computors :cool: Wayne

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , How did you go with John Bradshaw yesterday , did you sought the wheels & hub caps out & anything else ? Wayne

[123rover50]

Hi Wayne. John bought up his P4 wheel and a hubcap. The cap is the same as the one I have but the car wheel has built in cap retainers not pips. John said look in the optional equipment catalogue so I looked in the 1973 one, nothing, 1975, nothing, then 1981 RTC 9842CB has pips available as pt no 562957. Googled that but no helpfull hits. Nothing on Dunsfold or Craddocks either. Anyway should not be hard to make.
Keith

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Wayne. John bought up his P4 wheel and a hubcap. The cap is the same as the one I have but the car wheel has built in cap retainers not pips. John said look in the optional equipment catalogue so I looked in the 1973 one, nothing, 1975, nothing, then 1981 RTC 9842CB has pips available as pt no 562957. Googled that but no helpfull hits. Nothing on Dunsfold or Craddocks either. Anyway should not be hard to make.
Keith

Hi Keith

Have you one of those pips/tits as a sample?
I do have a set of Rover 75 wheels that have their caps and pips.
I could show them to a friend who is a fitter and turner.
.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , I keep geting half a infomation notice across the midle of the page which i don't seam io be able to get rid of it, so I could not read were you found the drawing of the wheel rim.Wayne:cool:

[wrinklearthur]

found this, they call them rivets though.

Partsale (http://www.partsale.eu/index.php?keyword=562957&brand=LAND%20ROVER&option=com_auto&task=detail.search&lang=en)
.

[123rover50]

Hi Keith

Have you one of those pips/tits as a sample?
I do have a set of Rover 75 wheels that have their caps and pips.
I could show them to a friend who is a fitter and turner.
.

G,day Arthur. I dont have one but I guess they look like a grease nipple.
If I had a drawing I could turn them up on the lathe. I could try the spacing out on an old rusty wheel til I got the tension right before drilling a good wheel.
Johns is a cyclops, so funny some had pips and others had the pressing.
Keith

[123rover50]

Hi Keith , I keep geting half a infomation notice across the midle of the page which i don't seam io be able to get rid of it, so I could not read were you found the drawing of the wheel rim.Wayne:cool:

Morning Wayne

Land Rover Optional Equipment Parts Catalogue.
Part no RTC 9842CB
March 1981

Keith

[123rover50]

found this, they call them rivets though.

Partsale (http://www.partsale.eu/index.php?keyword=562957&brand=LAND%20ROVER&option=com_auto&task=detail.search&lang=en)
.

That must be them. Funny. I googled that number and nothing like that came up.
Talking of rivets I am after the 3/16 pop rivets to do the outside of the capping. All ours seem to have a 3/8 head when all the original rivets have a 5/16 head. They are available from Bob Jones on LRSOC but I was wondering what others here have done.

Keith

[wrinklearthur]

That must be them. Funny. I googled that number and nothing like that came up.
I can measure those posts ( my word) and make up a drawing for you if that sellers site draws a blank.
I googled Rover 562957 to find about four sites, three of which, returned that the parts were listed but out of stock, that included 'Rimmers' as well, they still might be worth a call to see if they can get more stock in.



Talking of rivets I am after the 3/16 pop rivets to do the outside of the capping. All ours seem to have a 3/8 head when all the original rivets have a 5/16 head. They are available from Bob Jones on LRSOC but I was wondering what others here have done.
Here is a link to a typical site.

F911 Bolts Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts (http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=1103)

While I see that the critical measurements are shown, the head thickness and diameter isn't shown, although most of these sites do invite you to contact them if there is any inquiries.

There is a good picture of the different body styles in this site.

POP Rivets | Blind Rivets | Rivets | Rivet Nuts | Riveting Tools | Rivet Setting Tool (http://www.helicoil.in/pop.htm)
.

[1950landy]

Hi Keith , Give Bolt Masters a call about the rivets i found them very helpful when i was after the solid rivets for my door caps . The guy I was talking was about my age ( old) & knew what he was talking about & they posted them the next day. There number is 33992488. Those solid rivets i got from them worked well once I got the air pressure right on the air hammer' I've got a air hammer here with the shaft machined to fit the dome of the rivets if you want to borrow it , beats titing them with a hammer & punch. Wayne

[123rover50]

Hi Keith , Give Bolt Masters a call about the rivets i found them very helpful when i was after the solid rivets for my door caps . The guy I was talking was about my age ( old) & knew what he was talking about & they posted them the next day. There number is 33992488. Those solid rivets i got from them worked well once I got the air pressure right on the air hammer' I've got a air hammer here with the shaft machined to fit the dome of the rivets if you want to borrow it , beats titing them with a hammer & punch. Wayne

Thanks Wayne. I have the solid rivets but no need for them just now. its the pops i am after for the sides of the cappings.
Keith

[123rover50]

I can measure those posts ( my word) and make up a drawing for you if that sellers site draws a blank.
I googled Rover 562957 to find about four sites, three of which, returned that the parts were listed but out of stock, that included 'Rimmers' as well, they still might be worth a call to see if they can get more stock in.


Here is a link to a typical site.

F911 Bolts Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts (http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=1103)

While I see that the critical measurements are shown, the head thickness and diameter isn't shown, although most of these sites do invite you to contact them if there is any inquiries.

There is a good picture of the different body styles in this site.

POP Rivets | Blind Rivets | Rivets | Rivet Nuts | Riveting Tools | Rivet Setting Tool (http://www.helicoil.in/pop.htm)
.

Arthur, you are magic at this searching. Given me lots to follow up.
Thanks .
Keith

[1950landy]

You could ring them about the pop rivets . as i said i found them very helpful . They also carry BSF &BSW bolts &nuts . I was looking on there web site & they had large & small diameter heads on there pop rivets. Wayne

[wrinklearthur]

This eBay crowd maybe worth sending a message to as well.

Land Rover Series 1 2 3 Capping Rivets * 25 Blind Pop Closed - Ultimate Quality | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Series-1-2-3-Capping-Rivets-25-Blind-Pop-Closed-Ultimate-Quality-/221162759338?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item337e53e4aa#ht_1762wt_952)
.

[123rover50]

Thanks Arthur . I sent a message asking for the head size.
Wayne . Boltmasters have two head sizes alright. The small one is 3/8 like the standard one. The large is a whopping 5/8 inch diameter.:o

Keith

[1950landy]

You will find the rivets now are metric , You need to find some one with old stock , swap's some times have old stock. I'll have a look in the gear I got from my father in laws when we cleaned out his shed . We have trouble geting imperial welsh plugs for the jag , we have to go to swap's with verniers & measure them so we we can get imperial plugs . The metric ones pop out when you give the jag a boot full or revs , not good when your racing & pulling over 7000 revs :o Wayne

[123rover50]

Gave up on finding the correct rivets so converted the standard ones.
Spun them against a file till the right diameter, polished a radius, and whacked them in. Look just like the originals on the other car.
Pics here compare the big rivet with the modified one.
Dunsfolds hve them for about 50 cents each but I am too tight to pay that. Anyway I defy anyone to pick the difference.
Keith

[1950landy]

Nobody would have noticed if you had used them with the larger head . Are you going to turn them down for the rest of the capping , that will take some time . Wayne

[123rover50]

Yes they would. Dont you worry , there are rivet counters on here too.
No thats about all the pop rivets. Most of the rest is screws.

[123rover50]

My latest ebay purchase arrived yesterday.
"The Royal Tour Of Australia In Pictures".
Several photos including one in Hobart show the grab rail that I had always assumed was chromed ( as the Gaydon one) is not. I clearly shows it in black in contrast to the chrome stay it sits on.
One less thing to chrome perhaps.
Keith