Fitting Roof Tracks - Suggestions please

[Owen]

My D4 does not have any roof tracks, an oversight on purchase from me....any suggestions on fitting them, the STD vs extended, how easy to do yourself and best place to buy them from ?

Or should I just get a full rack that mounts onto the track lockdowns and not use the track ?

[CaverD3]

It depends if you want flexibility of the tracks or not. A fixed rack will be lower as well.
Rhino rack tracks are cheaper than the OEM ones especially if you get the cross bars and they are a lower profile. If you want to go to the front then you need an extra small track for the front.
I am not sure how much more the OEM long ones are to compare.

[ADMIRAL]

The LR factory rails, cover the rear raised portion of the roof, and use a single pick up on the front mount, from the factory 'riv' nut under a plastic tab. The LR Expedition rack uses multiple bolts down on the rear rail, and a single angled bracket with an aero shroud on the front mount. The factory rails do sit a little higher than aftermarket rails, but if you use the LR Expedition rack, it 'wraps' around the rail, and sits very low on the roof.

I don't believe there is really a lot of difference in the rails, factory to aftermarket, unless you intend using the LR Expedition rack. ( in which case I would advise sticking to the factory rail '. The aftermarket rails I have used/seen are lower than the factory rail. The rails are pretty simple to install. You need 'forked' clip removal tool, preferably in plastic, or you can end up damaging the paint trying to get the clips out on the metal/plastic cover trim. The force applied to remove the clips, does mean if you slip, you will lose paint if using a metal tool. Once the trim strip is off, it exposes the factory 'riv' nuts in the roof channel. The rails bolt onto these. The factory trim is shortened, and the front piece reattached to the front lower roof. I think any of the aftermarket rails are stacks cheaper than the factory rails. Unless you particularly want the LR Expedition rack, this is probably your best course. The rails of whatever type should have full instructions on installation. Just be careful and take your time, and you won't make a mess.

On the LR Expedition rack, if you are looking that way. They are bloody expensive, look the goods, but are not the most practical rack. ( not enough cross rails ) If you are used to just chucking stuff onto a roof rack, you will have to change for this rack. Careful placement across the rails is required. They are not the quietest rack, but putting a filler strip between the roof and the front of the rack shuts them up a massive amount. I would check them out very carefully before committing.

I have looked at pretty much everything else on the market, and spoken to owners about their racks. The Dolium rack is probably the quietest of the aftermarket racks, and undoubtedly the most practical. Rhino have a flat rack option now ( optional side rails ) but the owners I have spoken to, don't find it particularly quiet. The Hannibal rack looks good, but I have been unable find one fitted for opinion. ( in W.A. ) They are probably the most expensive, even costlier than the LR factory expedition rack.

I am going to try a 3/4 rack shortly, and it will probably be the Dolium. I like the flexibility they offer in size and mounting. The 3/4 rack doesn't use the front mount at all, and as the front finishes around the end of the raised roof section, I am hoping it will be even quieter than other options

Hope this helps.

[AnD3rew]

Doctorj gave a good account of his fitting here.

http://http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/156998-fitting-roof-rails-d3-2.html

[simoncs]

Hi Admiral,

I am also debating what rack to go with. I want it to be low profile, but also want enough crossbars to be able to just chuck stuff up. I really liked what Stornoway did, by cutting off the sides of the expedition rack, but that doesn't solve the lack of crossbars, and as you say is an expensive option.
So to that end I am making enquiries about having one made. I have also asked front runner, if their rack can sit on shorter feet so the rack then sits just above the tracks. I also have the extended roof rails so want to utilize these.

I will let you know how it goes
Simon

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[juddy]

I have looked at pretty much everything else on the market, and spoken to owners about their racks. The Dolium rack is probably the quietest of the aftermarket racks, and undoubtedly the most practical. Rhino have a flat rack option now ( optional side rails ) but the owners I have spoken to, don't find it particularly quiet. The Hannibal rack looks good, but I have been unable find one fitted for opinion. ( in W.A. ) They are probably the most expensive, even costlier than the LR factory expedition rack.

Not so, and this is nothing against dolium, these rack run east to west,< Hannibal and Patriot run North to South, so there is alot less wind noise. I have seen alot of people needing to fit a wind deflector with the Dolium racks. However doluim are a cheaper rack and very good...

The Patriot rack also suits the Discovery..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/511.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/512.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/513.jpg

[scarry]

I fitted the Rhino tracks to mine,the rear long one's were all i needed.Relatively easy to fit,a pop rivet is needed at the rear of each rail,but drilling the hole & sealing the rivet is very easy.I believe the short front rails also need a pop rivet.

The factory covers come up easily,the plastic clips can be prised up with a screwdriver,then pulled up with a pair of side cutters jaws around them.

[ADMIRAL]

I have looked at pretty much everything else on the market, and spoken to owners about their racks. The Dolium rack is probably the quietest of the aftermarket racks, and undoubtedly the most practical. Rhino have a flat rack option now ( optional side rails ) but the owners I have spoken to, don't find it particularly quiet. The Hannibal rack looks good, but I have been unable find one fitted for opinion. ( in W.A. ) They are probably the most expensive, even costlier than the LR factory expedition rack.

Not so, and this is nothing against dolium, these rack run east to west,< Hannibal and Patriot run North to South, so there is alot less wind noise. I have seen alot of people needing to fit a wind deflector with the Dolium racks. However doluim are a cheaper rack and very good...

The Patriot rack also suits the Discovery..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/511.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/512.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/513.jpg

As previously stated, I have not been able to compare to a Hannibal rack, and the cost was more than the OE Expedition. Ditto for the Patriot rack, although they may be cheaper ( no idea if they are available over here ) . The Dolium racks come std with a wind deflector.

[Tombie]

I fitted the Rhino tracks to mine,the rear long one's were all i needed.Relatively easy to fit,a pop rivet is needed at the rear of each rail,but drilling the hole & sealing the rivet is very easy.I believe the short front rails also need a pop rivet.

The factory covers come up easily,the plastic clips can be prised up with a screwdriver,then pulled up with a pair of side cutters jaws around them.

Even easier... They screw out :D

Pop one side up with a flat blade (wifes butter knife works well)

The grab the side with a pair of molegrips (Easier than trying to hold everything closed) or pliers and just wind it out like a bolt :)

To be extra safe - I applied some blue masking tape either side before doing it...

I also didnt remove the entire trim strip to cut it...

Here was my install:
1) lift edge of plastic clip and unscrew - do this for the 3 rearmost on each side - do not touch the front one.

2) Measure the distance from the rear of 1525mm and mark on the trim strip - I placed masking tape (blue) on the strip and drew across the tape.

3) Lift the strip from the rear gently and place either thick cardboard - or in my case an old piece of door trim from a car I was wrecking - on a towel and slide it under the strip where you will be cutting.

4) Fit safety glasses to face and cutting wheel to dremel :cool:

5) Cut off strip - repeat for both sides...

6) Bolt rails on as per directions...

7) Go have Beer...

Total time for job 20 minutes....

[D3mike]

Get extended rails if you go that route - gives extra flexibility & real estate for after market. I have extended LR rails with rhino rack bars & misc foxwing, roof pod, bike racks, kayak racks at various times.

D3mike

[Disco4ba]

Just a quick question, Do you have to drill new holes to fit the Rhino tracks (rear & extended) or do the just bolt into the existing roof mount holes?

[CaverD3]

It is suggested theat you drill two holes for pop rivets at the back. The Rhino rails are low profile and can lift if the cross bars are put at the back.

[Tombie]

It is suggested theat you drill two holes for pop rivets at the back. The Rhino rails are low profile and can lift if the cross bars are put at the back.

Hence why I wouldn't go Rhino....

I can't see myself happily drilling holes for Rivets in my vehicle :o

I have factory rails - took bugger all time to fit - yes they are a whole 1/2" higher ;)

[scarry]

Rhino easy as

Measure OEM cover strip,cut to size after removing.(remove three rear clips as per Tombie instructions)

Fit rhino track using supplied screws,drill hole at rear & seal with sealant.(use the sealant they specify).Fit pop rivet and seal over.


21 minutes,time to have a beer:)

[CaverD3]

Agree dead easy and a lot cheaper than the OEMs. The higher profile of the OEMs allows them to resist the back lifting.

[Tombie]

Supercheap has Prorack on sale this week....

They have a kit with no rails at all..... ;)

[101RRS]

Just be aware that if you go Rhino tracks (as I have) you will generally be restricted to Rhino products. Other aftermarket products specifically designed for the D3/4/RRS are generally designed for the OEM Land Rover tracks. eg Tigerez Roof racks go on the OEM tracks - with mine I will use U bolts to bolt the Tigreez rack to the cross rails or direct to the Rhino feet but the Tigerez feet will not go on the Rhino tracks.

Normally there is a work around but just be aware that many products will not go direct on the Rhino tracks without some modification.

Garry

[Brad]

Hi Admiral,

I am also debating what rack to go with. I want it to be low profile, but also want enough crossbars to be able to just chuck stuff up. I really liked what Stornoway did, by cutting off the sides of the expedition rack, but that doesn't solve the lack of crossbars, and as you say is an expensive option.
So to that end I am making enquiries about having one made. I have also asked front runner, if their rack can sit on shorter feet so the rack then sits just above the tracks. I also have the extended roof rails so want to utilize these.

Baja Rack? They were at LR expo this past weekend in Sydney. Had a guy walking around on a flat rack fitted to the roof of an FJ Cruiser and it looked pretty stable.

[simoncs]

Thanks Brad, will have another look at them

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[rufusking]

Had a quick look at the website, 45.5kg! Doesn't leave much capacity if you plan to stay within the vehicles design limit and laws of physics. The roof load values, static, dynamic, on-road, off-road, legal, insurance, etc had been discussed at length elsewhere in this forum.

[CaverD3]

Has been discusssed adnausia LR quote low figure but put a lot more onthei G4 and expedition vehicle. You just need to be aware that any weight on the roof will affect the vehicles centre of gravity. :angel:

[brad72]

I ended up building my own rack. Weight came in at 22kg so I can put 50 kg of stuff up there without affecting the recommended roof load specs. It is mounted to LR roof tracks

Here is picture from when I was building it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[phl]

I noticed that most people tend to have the shorter track rather than the full length track; is there a reason for that? I was thinking of optioning the D4 with the full length track.

[CaverD3]

Brad, that is one hell of a front overhang it will give lot of lift at the back.

[brad72]

Brad, that is one hell of a front overhang it will give lot of lift at the back.


There are brackets on the front that go down to the roof but they weren't fabricated for the photo above. All up there are 4 mounts per side.

[CaverD3]

:BigThumb:

Nice looking rack. :eek: :Rolling:

[~Rich~]

I ended up building my own rack. Weight came in at 22kg so I can put 50 kg of stuff up there without affecting the recommended roof load specs. It is mounted to LR roof tracks

Here is picture from when I was building it.

http://imageshack.us/a/img225/1338/roofracku.jpg

Nice looking rack, pity the spare bed has gone though! :wasntme:

[Desert Traveller]

Brad72
Do you have wind noise issues with the roof rack?

[Celtoid]

I've got a Tradesman Oval Alloy rack .... I'd post a piccie but I haven't worked out how to set that up yet... I've only been on this forum for 2.5 years....LOL!!! :(

It runs the whole length, is relatively low and is rated at 150KGs (which is a lot more than all the others I was interested in). It has rails all round, a front deflector, cross bars and metal mesh, so plenty of tie down points.

The manufacturer went away from individual legs and now supply a one piece per side, length of alloy that has four mounting points that screw into the D4's tracks. This set up looks a little strange at the front, it could have been made a little prettier (it may be just the sloping roofline that accentuates the mounts) but isn't too bad and would be a lot quicker than installing eight individual legs I think...plus a lot stronger.

It's rigid and as strong as hell and I walk all over it when loading. You do notice the wallow when you have weight up there, so you just need to consider corners a bit more and slow down and keep it smooth.

I had to fluff around a bit to get the mounts to fit easily....apparently should have been done by the guys that fitted the rack. But only needs to be done once, then they are very easy from that point on. You just bolt the mounts to the LR roof tracks....one piece, four bolts (each side) and then drop the basket/rack on....eight heavy duty bolts with a locking lug for each hold the rack to the mounts.

I've set up ratchet straps from eye-bolts on my garage ceiling so that I can suspend the rack there when not in use (I don't drive around with the racks normally). Mounts on....back up under the suspended rack...lower onto mounts and bolt on. Dead easy. Two guys, 15 mins. One person can easily fit by themselves, just takes a little longer.

They do make some noise from about 60 onwards but it's not too bad and doesn't get proportionally worse with speed.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Kev.

[101RRS]

It runs the whole length, is relatively low and is rated at 150KGs (which is a lot more than all the others I was interested in).

While the rack is rated at 150kgs the roof is not - I think is only 75kgs but not sure.

Garry

[Celtoid]

While the rack is rated at 150kgs the roof is not - I think is only 75kgs but not sure.

Garry


Yeah I think that number is about right for what LR quote but I believe it's well undercooked.

You'd never be able to mount a rooftop...or should I say sleep in a rooftop tent if that were the case.

Obviously the force applied to the roof, being dynamic is increased but I don't think it would be to the extent of Rack + Tent + two adults (static weight) would it?

Besides, I'd never put that much up there anyway, usually lighter bulky stuff like a tent and chairs etc. Always ballasted with the heavy gear inside.

[discotwinturbo]

When I was looking for a rack in contacted this mob in the uk:

http://www.prospeed-offroad.co.uk/products/discovery-3-4/47-discovery-3-4-expedition-accessories.html

I quoted land rovers figures, and they said that the roof was rated at that because the land rover products were rated to that weight.

They went on and stated that the roof will handle 200 kgs if using their rack.....offroad.

You would need to be careful with that weight though due to the higher centre of gravity.

Brett.....

[Owen]

The Landrover factory long tracks seem the most compelling apart from the price...wreckers maybe ?

[simoncs]

Check ebay in US. They have the long tracks

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[NTB]

Hello All,

I am looking into fitting Roof Rails on my D4.
I like the look of the LR Factory Full Length Roof Rails. The LR Cross Bars are not my preferred option as I like the Bar to go the full width of the roof to much things easier when lifting up kayka's etc.
Do not require a full flat rack, I only require a couple of Cross Bars to carry kayak's, ladders, timber, etc.

So I was thinking of fitting the LR Factory Full Length Roof Rails and add the Rhino Rack Aero RLT Cross Bars.
Does anyone have this option?
Are you happy with this setup?
Are you able to fit accessories to the Rhino Rack Aero RLT Cross Bars?

NTB

[rufusking]

I ordered my D4 with the long tracks and bought Black (yes, black is available it generally needs to be ordered in) Rhino 1375mm long cross bars with the RLT leg set.
Happy with the setup. Up sides are:
- full width
- totally flat across the bars
- you can mount things like the multi holder or shovel holder upside down / underneath the overhang so you still have a low profile or full width available topside for other things
- you can fit spacers between the legs and bar if you need extra clearance so whatever is on the bars clears the tailgate when it's open

Down side:
- there is a little wind noise at certain speed but it isn't always there, strange? Only really noticeable with the roof open.

I'd recommend them.

[NTB]

Thank you for the feedback Rufusking.

I shall get the LR Factory Full Length Roof Rails and Rhino Rack Aero RLT Cross Bars under way.

NTB

[SLOWBOAT]

Yeah I think that number is about right for what LR quote but I believe it's well undercooked.

You'd never be able to mount a rooftop...or should I say sleep in a rooftop tent if that were the case.

Obviously the force applied to the roof, being dynamic is increased but I don't think it would be to the extent of Rack + Tent + two adults (static weight) would it?

Besides, I'd never put that much up there anyway, usually lighter bulky stuff like a tent and chairs etc. Always ballasted with the heavy gear inside.

The weights quote are always for dynamic loads not static loads due to crash tests. In my early days of training I was moved into a department that we designed roof bars, roof racks, trailers, truck trays, protection barriers etc. and it is always the dynamic loads we were worried about. So roof top tent and 2 people would be fine just not while moving. lol. Hope this helps with this thread.

[Brad]

Deleted, already asked.

[Celtoid]

The weights quote are always for dynamic loads not static loads due to crash tests. In my early days of training I was moved into a department that we designed roof bars, roof racks, trailers, truck trays, protection barriers etc. and it is always the dynamic loads we were worried about. So roof top tent and 2 people would be fine just not while moving. lol. Hope this helps with this thread.

It makes sense that the dynamic load would be the quoted figure, I think the suggestion is that LR have grossly underquoted. Of course, we'd all like to see that in writing. :)

LR's quoted 75KGs is the equivilant of a couple of jerries and a spare. Better than nothing I suppose but seems awfully light.

Wouldn't companies that make racks for D3/4 with a higher load rating than LR quote be opeing themselves to a legal bottom romping? It's hard to believe that they would be that stupid......but hey...LOL!!!

You mentioned crash testing, etc...can you shed some light on the test criteria? I imagine you'd have to be cognisant of rack and contents suddenly increasing relative weight due to a hard stop (read crash) and tearing the roof off the car. But have you more detail and figures? Doesn't matter if you don't, just trying to get a feel for the actual safe weights and the dynamic multiplication factor.

Cheers,

Kev.

[drowell]

If you are interested in a serious roof system, I bought a 2.1m Front Runner from Dolium. It's heavy, but heavy duty! I bought mine with a Hannibal roof top tent and a Front Runner quick fit kit. I'm not using it at the moment. We bought a TVan and only intend to use it when we do a long trip where vans aren't appropriate. It is a bit noisy. I also have a set of unused genuine LR roof rails and cross bars. I don't expect to use them. Can't use this forum for classified ads, but given people are asking - feel free to contact me.
I used the Front Runner on a 9000km red centre trip last year and it performed great. I also have the optional 2.1m ladder. It is only about 200mm wide and comes with a rail that stres the ladder under the rack. Great but not cheap. Rack, wind deflector, ladder and rails (doesn't fit the LR ones) and the roof tent quick fit was about $1800.
My car was covered in Overlander in Jan this year, so if you are interested in what you can do to a D4 contact me and I'll send you a scanned copy.
I bought my Disco as a bit of a leap of faith and am happy to share my learnings on what fits.
I love my Land Rover.

[sniegy]

Hi Drowell,

The vehicle looks sensational, doing what it is supposed to.
Could you send me a copy please.

FYI there is a "MARKETS" section at the top of the main pages.
Feel free to place your add in there at anytime & again it is free.
Just no posting in any thread.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[TimWM]

Thanks for the thread. My decision is Rhino Aero. It gives more flexibility depending on what I want to use them for in the future (no idea, but flexibility is good for me). I'll install myself, but not riveted on yet - until needed.
LR were kind enough to offer me trade price for originals @$950. I know its original, but it's still double the Rhino option!
I saw LR OEM look rails and bars for $320, but just don't want the risk if it turns out to be really cheap and nasty.

[Fred Nerk]

I see (again) that people are confused about dynamic and static load limits.

I hope this clears the air:

The dynamic load limit relates to the weight of the roof rack and the gear attached. The limit applies when driving along and is set to avoid the risks of roll-over etc due to significantly raising the centre of gravity and or pendulum effects.

The static limit refers to the maximum weight that may be placed on the roof when parked. This is a substantially higher limit since the roof is designed to support the weight of the car when it is upside down (Crash tests). Provided the roof rack is strong enough the roof can accommodate a roof top tent and occupants safely only when the vehicle is not being driven.

The load limit specified by the makers of the various racks has no influence on the dynamic load limit which is dictated by the design/engineering of the car.

[NavyDiver]

gave my D3 tracks to this gent for his D4 to help finnish his very cool work. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/125155-roof-rack-build.html

You might like to PM Brad on how to if his project does not give enough details as D3 tracks should be cheap and easy to pick up now.