Query for the electricery experts

[Brick]

Have removed my factory driving lights from my D4 as I may as well as had candles sitting on the bumper. Have bought an LED light bar and made a bracket so it mounts using the factory points in the bumper.

The wiring harness supplied is set up for the light to be wired as an accessory light rather than driving lights. The supplier advertises that they do not supply wiring instructions as they should be installed by an auto electrician. Having installed my own DBS and driving lights on my D3 previously, I would rather do it myself.

So finally to the question. I would like to remove the switch that is in the wiring supplied, and connect to the wires from the factory harness that were the leads for the driving lights. The new harness has fuses and relay, but was thinking that by wiring this way, I get the benefit of only coming on when high beam is on, and utilises factory switch already mounted on the console.

If I do connect to the OEM wiring harness, is this likely to cause any issues?

[Redback]

That switch is there so the driving lights can be turned off and be able to have high beam without the driving lights on, it's an ADR requirement.

A light is a light, the ECU won't know the differance if you wire it up as per factory lights.

Baz.

[Mick_Marsh]

A light is a light except when it is a LED.
Are there smarts in the computer that may detect it as a blown globe?

[Brick]

That switch is there so the driving lights can be turned off and be able to have high beam without the driving lights on, it's an ADR requirement.

A light is a light, the ECU won't know the differance if you wire it up as per factory lights.

Baz.

Baz,

Sorry not very clear, already have the factory driving light switch mounted which I am hoping I can still utilise by using the existing light leads as the trigger for the new harness.

Thanks

[Canaussie]

Hey Brick,

What led bar did you end up purchasing?
Are you mounting to the plastic bodywork or bull bar?

Cheers billy

[Brick]

Billy,

Purchased a Monster Lights Black 32" bar. A bit pricey but it fits nicely between the headlights without sitting up too high and disturbing the airflow to the radiator. Also throws a nice broad white light.

Already had the factory spotty mounts that poke up through the bumper so bought some flat bar to mount the light to. Is nice and solid with no vibration. Hooked up the light using the factory harness to trigger the relay in the new harness. Works a treat. Means only comes on when on high beam and can switch off with OEM spotty switch. My Plod will not be able to complain......other than I only have one light rather than two as mandated by our ancient design rules.

[sniegy]

Hey Brick any chance of a Photo?

Would like to see what it looks like as I was thinking this also.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[Brick]

Hi Pete,

As requested. To quote SWMBO, its too bright, sets trees on the side of the road on fire, and has cars 2kms away flashing their lights. Perfect for the open roads in Australia.

BTW, had the D4 in to get the trailer plug checked by the dealer as the fridge was not running on 12v when hooked up to the car. They wanted to undo the EBC wiring which was installed following your instructions. Told them in no uncertain terms not to touch it. Thank god they listened.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/890.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/891.jpg

[sniegy]

Love it[thumbsupbig]
Thanks heaps.
Appreciate it.

[CaverD3]

Should comply:

Mounted in pairs, twelve of them. :D

[sniegy]

Should comply:

Mounted in pairs, twelve of them. :D
LOL:p

[Basil135]

Just a quick add on to this thread...

Does anyone have a picture of the actual switch & it's location for the factory driving lights on a D4?

I want to keep the inside of the car looking as factory as possible, for the time being anyway... ;)

A part number would be super dooper as well... :D

[willem]

Love it[thumbsupbig]
Thanks heaps.
Appreciate it.


Hey Sniegy, I sent you a pm on a totally unrelated subject. Do you reckon you could check your messages, please?


Willem

[jonesy63]

Does anyone have a picture of the actual switch & it's location for the factory driving lights on a D4?
The D4 driving light switch fills the cavity in the console - on the other side of the EPB. (I use that space for the keyfob, so don't want the D4 switch).


A part number would be super dooper as well... :D
Sorry, there is no part number - you have to buy the whole D4 driving light kit which comes with the switch and loom!

I was told buy a guy on the disco3.co.uk site that you can however, buy the Freelander 2 switch - which looks exactly the same as the D4 switch. He didn't have the part number and I haven't had the time to ring a dealer and ask. I was planning on installing that part on the lighting switch cluster - where they should have put it in the first place! :mad:

Cheers,
Rob

[rufusking]

Does anyone have a picture of the actual switch & it's location for the factory driving lights on a D4?


Attached is a copy of the install instructions for the LR kit which shows the switch location. Reading through the instructions I'd be glad to do it in the suggested 4.5 hours!

[sniegy]

Good Luck!

[Basil135]

Good Luck!

Gee - thanks...

I can almost hear you sniggering from here.. ;)


BUT - where there is a will, there is a way. Or, a plan B :D

[sniegy]

When do you want me back??????? :p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
p.s You have great ears!!

[Platypus]

So approximately how much would it cost for labour and wiring kit (excluding the actual lamps) to supply and fit the LR kit?
Paul

[Basil135]

So approximately how much would it cost for labour and wiring kit (excluding the actual lamps) to supply and fit the LR kit?
Paul

Labour would be around the $500 mark, and I would put the kit at around $800.

You need to buy the whole lot, including lamps, as far as I know.

But, you could always on-sell the lamps to get some $$$ back.

The "book" time is 4.5 hours, but looking at what is involved, like has been said, I think that might be a bit conservative for someone that doesn't work on them every day, and have the inside knowledge as to how everything in the car clips together.

Now, all that said, I am working on "plan B" which is a nice set of Fyrlyt's, and either make up my own harness, or get one off the shelf & modify it. The plan also makes better use of the factory switch location, to enable others to be put in there as well.

[Basil135]

When do you want me back??????? :p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
p.s You have great ears!!

2 words for you...

Mood

Lighting


enough said :p

:cool:

[Platypus]

I already have the Fyrlyts. Got them new for $190 for the pair:D. (Silent auction, school fete. I don't think anyone else realised their true cost:D:D:D!). At $1300 I'll probably think more about fitting Opposite Lock 'bar and use that for so much more.

[Platypus]

Just another thought. The Fyrlyts are 150w each globe which is a minimum of 13 Amps per light, optimally 30 Amps wiring capacity for the pair. The LR loom may not have enough 'head room' to allow the lights to work at their best ( I stand to be corrected if this ain't so!)
Paul

[snowbound]

Hi Pete,

As requested. To quote SWMBO, its too bright, sets trees on the side of the road on fire, and has cars 2kms away flashing their lights. Perfect for the open roads in Australia.

BTW, had the D4 in to get the trailer plug checked by the dealer as the fridge was not running on 12v when hooked up to the car. They wanted to undo the EBC wiring which was installed following your instructions. Told them in no uncertain terms not to touch it. Thank god they listened.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/890.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/891.jpg

Flamin heck that looks gooood!

[letherm]

Now, all that said, I am working on "plan B" which is a nice set of Fyrlyt's, and either make up my own harness, or get one off the shelf & modify it. The plan also makes better use of the factory switch location, to enable others to be put in there as well.

I had a set of Fyrlyts installed last week onto an ECB bar. It cost me $200. The normal cost is $160 but I requested that they use had 6mm wiring instead of the usual 4mm and a 40 amp relay. This was suggested by Paul who co-developed the lights. There is a circuit diagram on the Fyrlyt web site. The install cost included a stick on switch which sits to the left of the rotary light switch. It is a push on/push of switch with red and green leds to indicate on or off. Hooked into the high beam circuit of course. The cable runs into the steering column gap. Looks very neat and the led is not noticeable at night as it's obscured by the steering wheel.

I got my Fyrlyts through a forum member.

Martin

[Platypus]

Letherm, do the 'High Beam Assist' ( or, more accurately, possum lights)
still come one or have they been disconnected because that's quite a lot of Amperes draw on the system if both are on together?
I would like to have a two-way switch so an either/or choice is available.
Paul

[letherm]

Hi Paul

Yes they do stay on. I presume that what you want to do is possible but maybe not by activating them via the high beam switch - may have to be a separate dedicated circuit/line but that would negate the ease of turning them off for oncoming traffic. Experts on the forum probably know.

You can't see the high beam on the road though as the Fyrlyts overpower them completely. The switch I have does not have an option to disable the standard high beam. It was the same on my previous car too. Paul from Fyrlyt said that 4mm wire would do but 6mm is optimal. From what I read on his web site and his e-mails to me the aim is to get 13 volts to the lights. I am just parroting here - I'm not an electrician :)

He is very happy to correspond or talk to people. I got the name of these lights from this forum - I'd never heard of them before.

Martin