headlights wont come on

[noogie]

Hi all

Don't know if you can help but here goes.
My headlights were working yesterday and now they don't.
I checked fuses near bottom of gear lever and found a blown fuse. I changed it but lights still don't come on. Parker lights & tail lights come on ok.

Is there another fuse?

I drive a td5 defender 110/ 2005

[Brad110]

Mick It may be the light switch on the steering column. These are poorly made and prone to failure in particular if you run larger bulbs without fitting an upgrade using relays.

Check to see whether your lights come on when you flash the hi-low lever.

They cant be repaired and there are OEM (lucas) replacements which are the same as original and cheaper/ poor copies.

I have read that you can save by using a Lucas from another model. prices vary considerable between 300TDi Td5 but the switches are very similar.

[noogie]

I actually tried a new one that I had bought a while back, and it didn't work.
Might have to visit my auto elec again.

[Don 130]

If it does turn out to be a melted light switch, the fitting of a relay to avoid running all the power for the lights through the switch, will prevent the problem re-occuring. The other alternative is to fit a Traxide wiring upgrade.
index7 (http://www.traxide.com.au)
Don

[steveG]

If it does turn out to be a melted light switch, the fitting of a relay to avoid running all the power for the lights through the switch, will prevent the problem re-occuring. The other alternative is to fit a Traxide wiring upgrade.
index7 (http://www.traxide.com.au)
Don

Yes, whatever your current problem turns out to be, definitely fit some relays if you haven't already done it.
I fitted a Traxide kit to mine on the weekend and finally got to take it for a drive tonight.
Apart from not having to worry about the switch burning out again, the light actually shines on the road now, and no longer cowers at the back of the reflectors too scared to come out :p

Steve

[noogie]

I recently had an led light bar fitted and spotties rewired by auto elects and all new relays were put in. I have also previously replaced the indicator stalk.
Might have to look at the new harness i think.

[noogie]

I think it might be my indicator stalk again as this morning the high beams only came on if you push it forward, but not back. I'm thinking that the stalk I replaced about a year ago has sustained meltdown prior to all the relays being put in. Why can't LR get something as simple as headlights right.

Still love her though.

[Reads90]

I have read that you can save by using a Lucas from another model. prices vary considerable between 300TDi Td5 but the switches are very similar.

The 300tdi has two types the later type is the same as the Td5

All the difference between them is the plug. The switch is the same. But the older one is half the price of the newer style one. So last time I brought the older one and cut off the plug of the new one and put on the plug from the broken one. Same me about $70

Ali

[JDNSW]

It can be either the combination switch or the main light switch. The headlights do not operate through a relay, and the switches are only just up to the job. Any increase in wattage of headlights without fitting relays means an imminent failure of one or both switches.

The relays fitted with your extra lights almost certainly did not add relays for the original headlights.

I would suggest that you find which switch is at fault, replace it, and add headlight relays as suggested.

John

[ugu80]

Yes, whatever your current problem turns out to be, definitely fit some relays if you haven't already done it.
I fitted a Traxide kit to mine on the weekend and finally got to take it for a drive tonight.
Apart from not having to worry about the switch burning out again, the light actually shines on the road now, and no longer cowers at the back of the reflectors too scared to come out :p

Steve

X2.

[flagg]

I think it might be my indicator stalk again as this morning the high beams only came on if you push it forward, but not back. I'm thinking that the stalk I replaced about a year ago has sustained meltdown prior to all the relays being put in. Why can't LR get something as simple as headlights right.

Still love her though.

I had a similar problem, and went straight for the storks and switches - BUT - it was a sticky relay. It worked sometimes.

Because I've not finished putting the dash together if they don't come on I just reach in, pick up the relay and wack it onto the firewall and they come on. I should rely get a new relay :angel:

[noogie]

Thanks heaps guys.
I'm gonnatake the indicator stalk out tomorrow & if it appears ok I'll get auto elect to check relays & instal if needed.

[goingbush]

Are you guys sure a 05 Td5 110 does not have a headlamp relay ,

I read that here so fitted aftermarket hi & low beam relays in the engine bay only to later discover there is already a headlight relay in the fusebox, and its even shown in the '99 Td5 wiring diagram

[noogie]

I had another look in the fuse box area and there does appear to be a headlight relay there. It even shows on the sticker diagram. Is it possible that it is faulty?

Should I give it a couple of taps and see if the lights fire up?
If there is one there, it didn't stop my old indicator stalk burning out.
Perhaps I shoud get the sparky to change it to a quality relay.

[goingbush]

I'd try to pull the relay out, you have to jiggle a bit as you pull it (the relay) and pull the one next to it, if it looks the same swap them over, and see if the lights work. if you turn the headlights on -off or change beams you should be able to hear the relay clicking.

[2stroke]

Check the 2 relays near the fuses you mentioned are plugged in properly. The relays only turn the headlights off with the ignition, not any dipping function, hence the switch still fails. If the relay/s are loose or failed you'll have parkers only.

[noogie]

Sounds like it might be relays.
I'll have a stab at it tomorrow.

Thanks guys
Much appreciated.:)

[mox]

It can be either the combination switch or the main light switch. The headlights do not operate through a relay, and the switches are only just up to the job. Any increase in wattage of headlights without fitting relays means an imminent failure of one or both switches.

The relays fitted with your extra lights almost certainly did not add relays for the original headlights.

I would suggest that you find which switch is at fault, replace it, and add headlight relays as suggested.

John

Actually there is a relay in the standard headlight circuit. Current goes through the headlight switch, then down to one of the relays near the fuse panel, then back to the dip switch. The relay is actuated by the ignition. When turned off the headlights go out. Idea is obviously to reduce the likelihood of flat battery when driver forgets to turn off them off when parking.

Headlight switch on my '97 build Defender burnt out so only parkers and taillights would operate. Quick and cheap repair was to bypass headlight switch, relay and dip switch and just have a two way toggle switch. One way is high beam and the other low beam. One result is that the lights seem brighter because there would be less voltage drop through one switch than through two switches, a relay and the lengths of wire to and from it. I find this handy at times, especially on farm to be able to have headlights on to provide light without motor running, even though have flattened battery a couple of times by accidentally not turning them off. Also, occasionally can forget to turn on parkers and taillights still operating through original headlight switch. Instrument lights not on provide reminder of this though.

Possibly this setup may not be legal for roadworthy requirements. However, before replacing the standard switch with a new one, would install the headlight relay and heavy wiring kit so the main current for the headlights would not go through the inadequate setup which Joseph Lucas, Prince of Darkness appears to have inflenced the design of.

[JDNSW]

Actually there is a relay in the standard headlight circuit. Current goes through the headlight switch, then down to one of the relays near the fuse panel, then back to the dip switch. The relay is actuated by the ignition. When turned off the headlights go out. Idea is obviously to reduce the likelihood of flat battery when driver forgets to turn off them off when parking.

......

That is correct on later Defenders. However, this relay, as pointed out by others, does not reduce the current in the switches - it merely introduces yet another set of contacts in the circuit to be a potential source of trouble. (and reminds me of an embarrassing situation a few years back when I flashed my headlights, including driving lights, as these came on with high beam, via a relay - the contacts on the relay welded together, leaving high beam permanently on, and the switch ineffective).

John

[noogie]

Hi all

Problem has been fixed.
Indicator stalk needed replacing and I had the auto elec install a relay for the headlights/high beam. So I shouldn't have issue again.

Why did I say that?

:)

[Nemo]

Hi I'm replacing my indicator stalk right now doing the same job. Lights worked on high beam but not on low.

I cant get the god damn steering wheel off.. Any clues anyone??

It's almost 9" angle grinder time and my fuse burnt to the end shortly before I jumped on the computer in the hope someone has an easy answer.

Cheers
.

[goingbush]

You need a steering wheel puller, or else pull on the wheel with yr knees whilst tapping the loosened nut and shaft with a copper hammer, be careful not to damage threads or you won't get it back on

Sent from my MB526 using Tapatalk 2

[steveG]

You need a steering wheel puller, or else pull on the wheel with yr knees whilst tapping the loosened nut and shaft with a copper hammer, be careful not to damage threads or you won't get it back on

Sent from my MB526 using Tapatalk 2

Note the highlight. Don't take the nut all the way off or when the steering wheel does come off you'll smash yourself in the face.
I made up a dodgy puller from some 5x25 flat bar and a couple of bolts. Drill holes in the flat in line with the holes in the steering wheel, and put the bolts through and tighten them down until the wheel releases.

Steve