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View Full Version : 4.6 to 3.9 ?



Harry Safari
10th November 2012, 06:55 PM
Ive only just bought a 97 RR hse Im pretty sure the block is cracked . Is the 4.6 really that prone to cracked block problems as all Ive been able to find are tales of woe. Are there any economic replacement options ie 3.9 for 4.6 changeover. Im not worried about power loss or performance just love the car but am finding no option other than the scrap heap. Thanks for any help.Harry

bee utey
10th November 2012, 07:12 PM
The 3.9's have a slightly shorter crank nose and no provision for a crank angle sensor. You could use a D2 4.0 engine but your best bet will always be to spend the pennies and replace all the liners with "top hat" (flanged) style ones.

Keithy P38
10th November 2012, 08:06 PM
Think about what it will be like after you spend the money on it! If its good now it'll be great later!

Every niggling thing you fix up is one thing you know for certain will last you another 5 or so years! And it's yours!

Harry Safari
10th November 2012, 09:36 PM
If the block is cracked?

Harry Safari
10th November 2012, 09:38 PM
Good advice, just hesitant about a known engine weakness.

Hoges
10th November 2012, 09:56 PM
interesting commentary on why 94mm bore blocks may be prone to this problem... see post #6 in Rover V8 cracking block and all the theories around - Tools and Fabrication - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=24559) That being said there are many many engines with hundreds of thousands of miles on them with no apparent problem

Harry Safari
11th November 2012, 05:52 AM
Thanks for that. If the tophat is the solution where should I start looking .Im in Newcastle.

Keithy P38
11th November 2012, 07:33 AM
Any engine builder should be able to do it for you. Probably a good idea to find a good one, perhaps your local rover specialist?

Foxspell
11th November 2012, 07:47 AM
For the best advice talk to Modern Motors in Dungog for all things Land Rover.
Go to
About Modern Motors Dungog (http://www.modernmotors.com.au/about)
For some more detail
Cheers
Lee

benji
11th November 2012, 06:32 PM
I've been told under good authority, that if you don't get these motors hot, it rules out 95% of problems in regards to this.

bee utey
11th November 2012, 06:42 PM
I've been told under good authority, that if you don't get these motors hot, it rules out 95% of problems in regards to this.
Exactly. Leave it home and tow with a Land Cruiser instead.:wasntme:

PS they run hot.:p

ozscott
11th November 2012, 09:49 PM
I've got jy d2 hot twice. Blew year gaskets but liners didn't move and block holds pressure properly. But if the liners aren't the best fit you would have to think heat will then move them

Cheers

Harry Safari
16th November 2012, 08:16 PM
Ive learnt so much about these Range rovers in such a short time Thanks to all who take the time to help. The boys at Belmont Motor Repairs have got me up and running (at this stage ) looks like possibly a blocked radiator was the cause of the overheat problem . The first 3 or so inches of the veins were fine and both ends let water flush through so it was good analysis from the boys that found the 60% blocked radiator below the normal cammera inspection lines. Towed 350 km to Sydney today for no overheat. Coolant was a little down overnight and condensation on cold startup is concerning, but hard to think a lot is wrong if towing that distance without a hickup.

Hoges
17th November 2012, 12:08 AM
Unless your coolant level is in need of a significant constant top up, condensation on a cold morning is what one would expect ;) Can you smell coolant in the cabin or in the engine bay once the vehicle is at operating temp?