98 110 Wheel and swivel bearings

[uninformed]

Hey all,

looking for the Timken part numbers for my LR Def 1998 110. Wheel bearings and swivel (if they do them)

what other consumable will I need to do the job?
Is LR's spring pull method good for the preload of the swivel bearings?

Stupid question, but Im guessing the bearing races come with the bearings and these get changed out as good practice? Can it be done without a press?

cheers
Serg

[roverrescue]

you will need seals too?
No press required to do the job.

You will need 4 bearing sets for the wheel bearings and 4 bearing sets for the upper and lower swivel bearings.

S

[clive22]

Hi

When I did this job, I didn't order enough shims under the cap for the swivel preload. I have no idea how many, I added more than I would have thought, order thin ones.

I do this when I grease the bearings every 5000k and I always end up taking out one of the thin shims to account for wear. This keeps resistance in the steering. I use to use a scale and it works, but now just look for a gentle resistance - once the initial higher static friction is overcome. It should never flop to a lock. You are bound by your shim set so order more thin ones.

Because your new bearing(s) are effectively thicker you need to move the caps up by the same amount and so need more shims, I ended up cutting them out of coke cans which was a bit tiresome.

Replace the swivel seals. Other bits: whilst it is all out maybe circlips for the end of the axle (CV) and shims again to set axle end runout. Full set of gaskets for all mating surfaces.

I think you can get the lot as a kit.

Clive

[justinc]

Serge,

wheel bearings LM603049/ LM603011 , timken set 37

swivel bearings lr number 60666, SKF 11590/11520 Imp Taper Roller Brg 0.625x1.6875x0.5625 inches Simply Bearings Ltd (http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=15064)

jc

[rick130]

and RTC3511 hub seals, and you'll want new stub axle nut lock/tab washers and some star gaskets (drive flange gaskets)

Although I think I'm the only person that uses them, they cost nothing and all I do is hit them with a very light smear of grease on installation.
They never leak and everything comes apart cleanly. (although having said that Loctite 515 or 518 would be excellent too)

[rick130]

Hi

[snip]

I do this when I grease the bearings every 5000k

[snip]
Clive

:eek:

You left one or two zero's off that, didn't you ?

Or is it 500k as in 500,000 ?

[clive22]

Hi

Missing letter should read every 5000 km

Clive

[rick130]

Umm, why that frequently ?

You must really like working on cars ?

[uninformed]

thanks guys,

ok so far Im reading as:

the wheel bearings are a matched pair, but different?
the swivel pin bearings are same top and bottom?

I will need:
Hub seal RTC3511, the gasket between swivel ball and axle housing, the gasket between stub axle and swivel housing and gasket at drive flange.
Shim/s for upper swivel pin, gasket for lower swivel pin.
Swivel ball oil seal.
New spacing washer, hub nut, lock washer and lock nut.
Axle shaft shim, axle shaft circlip.

Loctite 270 for some of the bolts.

I have in the past used RTV type sealant at the driveflange. But as Rick sort of mentioned its not clean and presents the problem of having to clean when ever the DF is removed. I also believe (and happy to be corrected) that from a engineering point of view (not an oil seal one) that it better to use the minimum gasket (no gasket at all would be best)

what are the experiences of those doing these more regulary seeing? are the paper no good at all? does grease or Hilomar help?

cheers
Serg

[rick130]

inner and outer races + cones are the same.

I've used grease or spray hylomar on the paper gaskets, same result. No leaks.

I've also used Loctite 518 on the stubs to housing and same result. No leaks.

You shouldn't need a new spindle nut and lock nut unless someone has butchered yours with a cold chisel. (that's actually how I was taught as a teenager :o I bought my first hub nut socket at 17 :D)

[justinc]

we use no gaskets at all assembling front or rear axles. this goes for the job you are about to tackle, too. we use Wurth 250 sealant for everything from p gasket sealing to transmission and engine rebuilds.

Company Catalogue Dec 2012 (http://www.wurth.com.au/Catalogue/index.html)

jc

[uninformed]

JC, looks like a RTV silicone (ultra black etc)??

does it clean off easy?

[justinc]

serge,

i will hazard a guess here and say it is far better in oil and heat than the rtv ultra blue etc we used to use, its price also reflects that:(

we never had any real issues with rtv ultra blue, but this stuff really is way better.

and yes removes surprisingly well, not like sikaflex;):D

9 years ago i attached the new turbo manifold to my 4bd1 using it. no gasket just straight up to the head. still on there with no leaks.

jc

[uninformed]

JC, have you tried the LR paper gaskets? have you used the thiner anerobic type Locties as Rick mentioned?

Im figuring at the Stub axle, swivel ball and DF that less is more from a engineering point of view..

[justinc]

Yes and yes. not fussed on them personally unless the mating surfaces are as new.

that was the reason i have gone to the 250 product. requires a very thin film to seal perfectly, i find i only need a sparing amount for high pressure / critical joints. have been fitting up swivels to axle housings and axle stubs for many years and not had an issue, either with leaks or joint failures. all my front axle has been assembled using it, 10 years + ago with a 4bd1 sitting over the top of it.

correct fastener torquing with a small amount of this stuff in the right place is just what the doctor ordered:D

jc

[uninformed]

The Wurth distribution outlet is 30mins up the road from me....I bought my copper crush washers for sump there (box 100) I think ill do another trip...

whast the shelf life on this stuff (im guessing you use enough not to be an issue)
do you use a silicone gun size tube?

[uninformed]

forgot o ask,

apart from the bearings, can I buy the rst in some sort of kit for the front end? not including the likes of hub nuts etc, but the swivel pin shims and swivel ball seals?

[justinc]

yes mate, cartridge for us, and yes we use a bit so never sits around long:(:)

jc :)

[justinc]

some of the kits are rubbish quality, shims are usually ok but the seals....:mad::mad:

you will need an FTC3401 swivel ball wiper seal , Corteco brand is OEM. in fact the rtc 3511 hub seals need to be corteco aswell. the aftermarket unbranded ones are rubbish, too.

jc

[rick130]

Are you fitting 200Tdi stubs and hubs ? :D

and might have to grab a few tubes of Wurth 250 too.

[jboot51]

what about the needle roller and seal inside the stub axle?

[uninformed]

what about the needle roller and seal inside the stub axle?

I do not run the seal inside the stub axle....I like my CV, bearings and axle/driveflange splines all running in oil thank you ;)

My truck doesnt run the needle roller either...I have different CV's and it now runs a bronze bush....

[jboot51]

Bronze bush ?
Where would I get those ?
I'll be doing my bearings in a few weeks, going oiled aswell.

[uninformed]

Bronze bush ?
Where would I get those ?
I'll be doing my bearings in a few weeks, going oiled aswell.

you only need the bronze bush if you change to a bigger/different cv. If yours is the stock 32spline cv you will NEED the needle roller bearing.

grease, forget that!.........Oiled is the word :cool:

[jboot51]

Thanks for that info

[uninformed]

after some ringing around, I can get the wheel bearings in Timken for about $23 a set. The swivel bearings are varrying. Most arent selling as a set :confused:
I can get Timken pair (1 set) for $42....SKF pair (1 set) for about $50 or I can actually get NSK set for $19...

are NSK up to the same standards?

are these prices resonable or should I look online?

[blue_mini]

Just stripped mine apart today to replace a stub axle. Turns out I got given the wrong stub axle. Ive got a 1992 200tdi with a bronze bush in the back of the stub axle. One of these actually, Shop 4 Auto Parts | STUB AXLE OEM DEFENDER FRONT EARLY (http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Axle/Drive-Shafts,Hubs-&-Swivels/frc4320-stub-axle-oem.html)

Is this modified or was i given the wrong stub axle?

[justinc]

Just stripped mine apart today to replace a stub axle. Turns out I got given the wrong stub axle. Ive got a 1992 200tdi with a bronze bush in the back of the stub axle. One of these actually, Shop 4 Auto Parts | STUB AXLE OEM DEFENDER FRONT EARLY (http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Axle/Drive-Shafts,Hubs-&-Swivels/frc4320-stub-axle-oem.html)

Is this modified or was i given the wrong stub axle?

can you post a pic of what you have on your vehicle then? does it have the needle roller and inner seal? what is you VIN number (numbers aren't needed, just the letters...)
if your VIN is LA then more than likely it is an FTC 3154, has the needle roler internally etc. if prior then should be the one in your link.
pics will help.

jc

[LowRanger]

If it is a 92 then the one linked to is the correct one.92 should be a JA Vin or if real late,possibly a KA but still the one linked to.
But I guess it depends if it has been replaced with a later type previously.

[justinc]

If it is a 92 then the one linked to is the correct one.92 should be a JA Vin or if real late,possibly a KA but still the one linked to.
But I guess it depends if it has been replaced with a later type previously.

exactly, that is why pics would help to work out if later LA onward bits have been fitted.
it is frustrating when things are there that aren't supposed to be:( we see this quite often. i've even seen an early rrc front axle assembly with the 6 bolt swivels etc fitted under a county :(

jc

[uninformed]

If it is a 92 then the one linked to is the correct one.92 should be a JA Vin or if real late,possibly a KA but still the one linked to.
But I guess it depends if it has been replaced with a later type previously.

If his 110 is the early type it has to have a AEU2522 cv, that means if someone had changed the stub axles and hubs they would need a custom driveflange from MD, HTE etc....

EDIT, I took it as you saying just the parts outboard, you may have ment the whole axle housing/assembly....

apparently there was a short run of early/mid defenders that had the 10 spline diff but changed to the 32 spline cv with shorter stub axles and narrow hubs. This before the 300tdi.

maybe this has something to do with the late disc brake rear 200tdis :confused:

but if blue_mini is saying his already have the bronze bush in it then good chance that they are the old longer type

Blue_mini, are your original stub axles longer than the new one supplied?

[blue_mini]

Here is the 2 stub axles https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1342.jpg
And the rear shot
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1343.jpg
And the cv, it has a 24 spline output
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1344.jpg
Is that rust normal?

And my VIN is ja907xxx

[uninformed]

looks like you definitely got the wrong stub axle there mate. Your old one is OEM original for your truck, the new one is the later type (not as good anyway). The bronze bush in yours is normal also, this fits the larger cv you have...they only went to a needle roller on the later smaller cv and shorter stub.

looks like you have the AEU2522 CV's if these are the original from LR I think they are made by GKN...

As for the rust, it looks like you are still running your cv and wheel bearings in grease? if this is the case, you can pull the axle seal that is inside the swivel ball and let the oil run right through your cv, bearings and it will even lube your axle shaft splines at drive flange. Just run the RTC3511 oil seal that goes on the stub axle/inside back of hub.

btw Im no pro so maybe wait for those that know better

[uninformed]

can someone check my part list and part#s....all LR part#

FTC3401 Swivel ball oil seal (do I need a new retaining plate also?)
FTC2883-FTC2886 Shims (upper swivel pin)
FTC3647 Joint washer (gasket for lower swivel pin)
606666 swivel bearings (top and bottom)
RTC3511 inner oil seal (yes its the stub/hub one)
FTC3179 lock washer (for hub nuts)
549473 circlip (end of stub shaft)
FRC6782-FRC6790 Shims (end of stub shaft)

and of course Timken wheel bearings and Wurth 250 sealant

what should I be ordering in the way of shims (both)

what else am I missing?

[uninformed]

Blue_mini, if you have a set of vernier calipers, could you measure the OD of the largest spigot on the swivel housing side of each of those stub axles

cheers
Serg

[LowRanger]

Serg.

I think you would want the hub seal to be RTC3511 and NOT FTC 3511:)

And the number that I have for the lock washers is 217353 This is due to the fact that the earlier stub axles have a keyway in them and the later type Stub has a flat section on it,so different lock washers required.You will also require a 217352 which is the inner key washer.
The rest look correct

[justinc]

the part they sent is the later stub, as i suspected. when you buy them they don't come with the bronze thrust bush, needle roller brg or seal.

it has possibly been incorrectly packaged/ labelled because that is not a frc4320


jc

[uninformed]

Serg.

I think you would want the hub seal to be RTC3511 and NOT FTC 3511:)

And the number that I have for the lock washers is 217353 This is due to the fact that the earlier stub axles have a keyway in them and the later type Stub has a flat section on it,so different lock washers required.You will also require a 217352 which is the inner key washer.
The rest look correct

edited, thanks mate.

re the part# for lock washer, the exploded diagram definitely has a large flat and states for disc front and disc rear vehicles from VIN 903435 onwards. It also shows the older style with keyway and has a different part# for that lock washer.

Im guessing your number is probably the revised, newer number?

what is the inner key washer? is this what Land Rover call the stub axle washer, which is the first washer after bearing, before first hub nut?

[LowRanger]

Serg

Yes I know what the manual say regarding Disc/Drum and Disc /disc,but I think that the disc/disc type stub is the later 300Tdi type with narrow bearing space:eek:

I know there is a crossover period in late 1993 between the 200Tdi and 300Tdi models where disc/disc is fitted.I have one of those :D But these two listings are all I have seen,and it only says from Vin **** and then no further listing.So it may pay to check that you are ordering the correct lock washer to suit the earlier stub that you are ordering.
And yes the key washer is what Land Rover call the first washer ,between the bearing and the first nut.

[rick130]

So Wayne, do you have the long stubs and vented discs or long and solids or short and vented ? (Geez that sounds personal :angel:)

[LowRanger]

So Wayne, do you have the long stubs and vented discs or long and solids or short and vented ? (Geez that sounds personal :angel:)

To tell you the truth Rick,it has been that long since I did anything with it,that I can't honestly recall and really had no need to be paying too much attention to which stubs I had,at the time.But I do have vented front discs on the '93 wagon,and discs all round and solid front discs and drum rears on the '92 truck cab.Both are 200Tdi.

I will have a gander in the not too distant future,but it will have too cool down a bit,as neither of the vehicles will fit in my carport,so I have to work outside since I no longer work in the trade,and don't have access to workshop.

[blue_mini]

Blue_mini, if you have a set of vernier calipers, could you measure the OD of the largest spigot on the swivel housing side of each of those stub axles

cheers
Serg

Heres a picture with some dimensions on it, may be a bit rough my sketching skills are a little rusty, Can clarify dimensions if you cant read them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1328.jpg
The new stub axle has an extra step in it.

On a similar note is there a step or edge to locate the bush for when i don't include the seal in the stub axle to convert to oil bearings?

[uninformed]

edited, thanks mate.

re the part# for lock washer, the exploded diagram definitely has a large flat and states for disc front and disc rear vehicles from VIN 903435 onwards. It also shows the older style with keyway and has a different part# for that lock washer.

Im guessing your number is probably the revised, newer number?

what is the inner key washer? is this what Land Rover call the stub axle washer, which is the first washer after bearing, before first hub nut?


Serg

Yes I know what the manual say regarding Disc/Drum and Disc /disc,but I think that the disc/disc type stub is the later 300Tdi type with narrow bearing space:eek:

I know there is a crossover period in late 1993 between the 200Tdi and 300Tdi models where disc/disc is fitted.I have one of those :D But these two listings are all I have seen,and it only says from Vin **** and then no further listing.So it may pay to check that you are ordering the correct lock washer to suit the earlier stub that you are ordering.
And yes the key washer is what Land Rover call the first washer ,between the bearing and the first nut.


sorry my post wasnt that clear. Yes the disc/disc stub is the short one. When I said it showed the older style with key way, what I didnt say was this was on another page under the Disc/drum section, with the earlier, long stubs.....I was just saying that I had seen both and they have different part#. I triple checked and the part# I listed is correct from the PDF im looking at, which looks to be genuine LR.

oh and the other confusion, I didnt say I was ordering the earlier stub (yet) :) Bloody Oilboy started that :D hahaha

so the part# I speced is for the later short stub. When I do these threads I try and get all the info I can for me and for others...it also becomes a reference I can go back and check for part#s etc. Yes this thread got a bit side tracked, but I still see it as my original outset, that is new bearings and parts for wheel and swivel on a 98 110.

btw LR refer to the key washer in the early long stub and then call the same washer a stub washer in the later short stub :)

I think I added this in the other thread re stubs/hubs, but here goes: I was told that there was a short period where LR fitted 10spline diffs but changed to the smaller 32spline cv...I am GUESSING that these may be the few later 200Tdis??? This could explain the disc rear, as it would be set up the exact same as the 300Tdi, except for the 10spline vs 24spline .....But one thing is for sure, if they have the 32spline cv they have short stubs and narrow bearing hubs, as there has only ever been one length 32 spline cv in defenders.....

maybe your disc/disc 200Tdi is short stub, maybe not???

thanks for the input and keep it comming mate :cool:

[rick130]

[snip]

Bloody Oilboy started that :D hahaha

[snip]


I've been called many things, but that's a new one ! :lol2:

[LowRanger]

sorry my post wasnt that clear. Yes the disc/disc stub is the short one. When I said it showed the older style with key way, what I didnt say was this was on another page under the Disc/drum section, with the earlier, long stubs.....I was just saying that I had seen both and they have different part#. I triple checked and the part# I listed is correct from the PDF im looking at, which looks to be genuine LR.

oh and the other confusion, I didnt say I was ordering the earlier stub (yet) :) Bloody Oilboy started that :D hahaha

so the part# I speced is for the later short stub. When I do these threads I try and get all the info I can for me and for others...it also becomes a reference I can go back and check for part#s etc. Yes this thread got a bit side tracked, but I still see it as my original outset, that is new bearings and parts for wheel and swivel on a 98 110.

btw LR refer to the key washer in the early long stub and then call the same washer a stub washer in the later short stub :)

I think I added this in the other thread re stubs/hubs, but here goes: I was told that there was a short period where LR fitted 10spline diffs but changed to the smaller 32spline cv...I am GUESSING that these may be the few later 200Tdis??? This could explain the disc rear, as it would be set up the exact same as the 300Tdi, except for the 10spline vs 24spline .....But one thing is for sure, if they have the 32spline cv they have short stubs and narrow bearing hubs, as there has only ever been one length 32 spline cv in defenders.....

maybe your disc/disc 200Tdi is short stub, maybe not???

thanks for the input and keep it comming mate :cool:

Serg

I still have the original front axles and Cv's from my F&R disc 200Tdi down the garage somewhere,I will endeavour to drag them out and check what Cv's it has?Just for reference.
And yes I was confused:oops2: I thought you "were" ordering the earlier type stubs.

[uninformed]

thanks Wayne, that would be great.

the other thing that would be interesting to know, and Im not sure if it can be done visually from the outside, is if the disc/drum one runs the larger top swivel pin and ralko bush, and the disc/disc one runs the smaller top swivel pin and taper roller bearing....

not your fault on the confusion...and yes still looking into the earlier stub/hubs, which of course will require the correct odds and ends.

Im seriously thinking about doing one order from a UK mob for all bearings, shims etc and just get 2 earlier stubs and hubs...that way when I dive into mine, I can start to see first hand some of this stuff.

[uninformed]

@ Blue_mini, I did see your question re the bush/seal, but I dont know the answer......hopefully someone will chime in for you.

RE Assembly, as I will be running all front end in the diff oil, that is no axle seal and no stub shaft seal, what is the procedure for swivel bearing lubrication? same as wheel bearings? (just lube with the same oil I use in the front diff and assemble?

also what shims should I order. I figure this is a "how long is a peice of string" question. But if you had no knowledge of what it was going to need, and you had no shims, what ones would you order to do the job? Id rather have some left over than be short and without vehicle waiting for more...

[LowRanger]

thanks Wayne, that would be great.

the other thing that would be interesting to know, and Im not sure if it can be done visually from the outside, is if the disc/drum one runs the larger top swivel pin and ralko bush, and the disc/disc one runs the smaller top swivel pin and taper roller bearing....

not your fault on the confusion...and yes still looking into the earlier stub/hubs, which of course will require the correct odds and ends.

Im seriously thinking about doing one order from a UK mob for all bearings, shims etc and just get 2 earlier stubs and hubs...that way when I dive into mine, I can start to see first hand some of this stuff.

Serg

I am not sure if there is a great difference visually from the exterior,but the swivels are leaking quite badly on the tray back that I recently purchased,so I will be taking it apart ASAP when the weather cools down and I have the time off work,as I have to work outside as both of my Defenders wont fit under my carport.As soon as I have it apart I will let you know.

[blue_mini]

I got my swivel rebuild kits and wheel bearing kits from paddock spares.
The swivel rebuild kits came with quite a few shims and I mixed and matched between the 2 kits I got and what was on the car.
Downside was the wheel bearings weren't timken, and I got a lot of seals that I didn't end up using.

[uninformed]

looks like LR part# STC4382 superseads RTC3429 for wheel bearings.

Some more info that PSimpson provided: The top swivel pin and bearing arrangement changes again from VIN ending: XA159807. From what I can gather it is the very last 6 numbers and the 2 digits preceeding on our VIN plates....mine is a WA****** and Pete's Td5 is 1A****** (so it seems they hit Z and moved onto number/letter)

LR part# for top swivel kit from VIN ending in XA159807 is TAR1000040

[Psimpson7]

Just to slightly add to the above post by Serg,

No ABS: after VIN ending in XA159807 is TAR1000040

With ABS: after VIN ending in XA159807 is TAR1000050

[uninformed]

can anyone tell me the thread type/size of the following:

swivel ball to axle housing: M10x1.5
top swivel pin to swivel housing: looks like this one could be M10, but not sure? or thread pitch?
bottom swivel pin to swivel housing:
stub axle to swivel housing:
disc rotor to hub:
driveflange to hub:

Is it ok to use normal taps(taper,inter and bottom) to clean the threads of the holes? or is there actual cleaning taps? if so where are they available?

[LowRanger]

Serg

You need what is called a "Thread Chaser" do not use taps.
You should be able to buy thread chasers from any good tool or engineering supplier

[uninformed]

I took my driveflange nut off and checked end float to get an idea of where it is currently at and to see what shims were already in there. When I pulled on the end of the axle shaft I could get 2 movements.....the first required not too much force and I consistantly got 0.33mm. If I pulled a fair bit harder, in which it felt like I had to "pop" it past its friction, I would get a total of 1.53mm. My cv is a R06665 with custom stub shaft so its the same length as a AEU2522. The inner axle is MD. Btw, this was the short side/drivers side (I didnt get time to check the other side) Now im pretty sure I have a bronze bush rather than a needle roller in the stub axle to suit this custom cv. The 2 shims behind the circlip were 0.8-0.9mm and a 1.2mm

Any thoughts?

[uninformed]

Serg

...................... from any good tool or engineering supplier

Sadly something the Gold Coast is missing. We had one good place, Scofields, but they are gone due to GFC. TradeTools dont carry this stuff. The fastener shops only have basic carbide taps and dies (which I wont by anymore...carbide is horrible)

Blackwoods probably sell them, But I bet they are terribly expensive from them and something they would have to get from the wharehouse.

[LowRanger]

Sadly something the Gold Coast is missing. We had one good place, Scofields, but they are gone due to GFC. TradeTools dont carry this stuff. The fastener shops only have basic carbide taps and dies (which I wont by anymore...carbide is horrible)

Blackwoods probably sell them, But I bet they are terribly expensive from them and something they would have to get from the wharehouse.

Snap-On sell them ;)

[uninformed]

When drifing the new races in, should the drift be made from brass or such? Any tips for drifting them in?

[Judo]

When drifing the new races in, should the drift be made from brass or such? Any tips for drifting them in?
Don't hit your finger with the hammer. :D

[jboot51]

driveflange to hub:M10x1.5

To drift in the new bush you could use the old one as a drift.

[LowRanger]

OK I have finally had a bit of time to check the original CV's that I took out of my 200Tdi with front and rear discs,and it had the later type CV's in it.Here it is along side the earlier type that I just took out of my Disc/Drum 200Tdi. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/753.jpg.Which appears to have the AEU2522 type larger CV https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/754.jpg

[uninformed]

looks lke I was on the right track in that those few disc/disc 200Tdi's are actually running the short stub, narrow hub and small 32 spline cv same as the 300Tdi...makes sense really

[LowRanger]

Yep,I think another give away is that it also runs ventilated front discs,which are only fitted to later models as well.The 92 model I have,has solid front rotors.So there are a lot of small differences.

[LowRanger]

Now I just have to work out what to do with the 92 model that I just bought,it has ARB lockers F & R but today I just found that it has a 10 spline in the front,supposedly fitted with MD front shafts and CV,but hard to tell as there are no identifying marks on the inner shafts.

[uninformed]

Yep,I think another give away is that it also runs ventilated front discs,which are only fitted to later models as well.The 92 model I have,has solid front rotors.So there are a lot of small differences.

yes but im pretty certain (at this stage anyway :D) that is Solid disc front/drum rear, vented disc front/disc rear

drum rear = long stubs
disc rear = short stubs

Re your 92, Im guessing the CV is just an AEU2522? is it 23 spline imput?
post some pics mate and we will all chime in. What are your intentions for it? If they are MDE shafts, even 10 spline its not that bad? Or you could get some 24 spline side gears and get Barry at Hi-Tough Eng. to supply shafts???

thanks as always Wayne.

[LowRanger]

yes but im pretty certain (at this stage anyway :D) that is Solid disc front/drum rear, vented disc front/disc rear

drum rear = long stubs
disc rear = short stubs

Re your 92, Im guessing the CV is just an AEU2522? is it 23 spline imput?
post some pics mate and we will all chime in. What are your intentions for it? If they are MDE shafts, even 10 spline its not that bad? Or you could get some 24 spline side gears and get Barry at Hi-Tough Eng. to supply shafts???

thanks as always Wayne.

Serg

Yeah I am just thinking out loud :D
I haven't removed the CV from the shaft,so I am only guessing the fact that it would be 23 spline input.
I already have new suspension bits for it,the same that I have in the the other truck,I intend for it to be a "Tough Tourer" but not sure whether I will just go with 255/85/16's or go to 35's like the other truck,as I have 8" rims with 35's that I will be taking off my other truck,when I get around to fitting my beadlock rims.
It takes more than just 24 spline side gears apparently to convert the 10 spline ARB to 24 spline.So maybe an Ashcroft locker and axles and CV's may be the go:eek:
I won't leave 10 spline axles in there,no matter who made them,as I don't like the thought of being let down in the middle of nowhere.I would rather do it once and do it right.
Hmmmmmmm this is sounding like a project,maybe another underdrive is in my future:twisted:

And yes I am sure you are correct regarding the stubs,and I have photographice evidence to back you up ;)

[uninformed]

The only negative I see to any of the HD aftermarket cvs is the fact they are "soft" for a reason and apparently dont take to HWY miles?? I would be interested to know if there are different hardnesses for Longfields, Rovering Tracks, Ashcroft, Kams (AFAIK all from the same USA manufacturer)

it is a shame we cant get genuine R06665 GKN's anymore and run the "fuse" stub ;)

either way it sounds like a pretty capable tourer :cool:

btw, they definitely look like AEU2522, and they are genuine GKN....hang on to those buddy

[LowRanger]

The only negative I see to any of the HD aftermarket cvs is the fact they are "soft" for a reason and apparently dont take to HWY miles?? I would be interested to know if there are different hardnesses for Longfields, Rovering Tracks, Ashcroft, Kams (AFAIK all from the same USA manufacturer)

it is a shame we cant get genuine R06665 GKN's anymore and run the "fuse" stub ;)

either way it sounds like a pretty capable tourer :cool:

btw, they definitely look like AEU2522, and they are genuine GKN....hang on to those buddy

Yes they are genuine AEU2522 and they are GKN,I will put them up in the rafters with all the other axles and Cv's that I have up there.
I am hoping that it all works out as a tourer,as that is why I originally bought it,and the fact that it only has a genuine 145,000 km on it,and already has a 120lt tank fitted,and a canopy with with gull wing doors.......decisions decisions lol