98 110 Wheel and swivel bearings

[uninformed]

Hey all,

looking for the Timken part numbers for my LR Def 1998 110. Wheel bearings and swivel (if they do them)

what other consumable will I need to do the job?
Is LR's spring pull method good for the preload of the swivel bearings?

Stupid question, but Im guessing the bearing races come with the bearings and these get changed out as good practice? Can it be done without a press?

cheers
Serg

[roverrescue]

you will need seals too?
No press required to do the job.

You will need 4 bearing sets for the wheel bearings and 4 bearing sets for the upper and lower swivel bearings.

S

[clive22]

Hi

When I did this job, I didn't order enough shims under the cap for the swivel preload. I have no idea how many, I added more than I would have thought, order thin ones.

I do this when I grease the bearings every 5000k and I always end up taking out one of the thin shims to account for wear. This keeps resistance in the steering. I use to use a scale and it works, but now just look for a gentle resistance - once the initial higher static friction is overcome. It should never flop to a lock. You are bound by your shim set so order more thin ones.

Because your new bearing(s) are effectively thicker you need to move the caps up by the same amount and so need more shims, I ended up cutting them out of coke cans which was a bit tiresome.

Replace the swivel seals. Other bits: whilst it is all out maybe circlips for the end of the axle (CV) and shims again to set axle end runout. Full set of gaskets for all mating surfaces.

I think you can get the lot as a kit.

Clive

[justinc]

Serge,

wheel bearings LM603049/ LM603011 , timken set 37

swivel bearings lr number 60666, SKF 11590/11520 Imp Taper Roller Brg 0.625x1.6875x0.5625 inches Simply Bearings Ltd

jc

[rick130]

and RTC3511 hub seals, and you'll want new stub axle nut lock/tab washers and some star gaskets (drive flange gaskets)

Although I think I'm the only person that uses them, they cost nothing and all I do is hit them with a very light smear of grease on installation.
They never leak and everything comes apart cleanly. (although having said that Loctite 515 or 518 would be excellent too)

[rick130]

Hi

[snip]

I do this when I grease the bearings every 5000k

[snip]
Clive

You left one or two zero's off that, didn't you ?

Or is it 500k as in 500,000 ?

[clive22]

Hi

Missing letter should read every 5000 km

Clive

[rick130]

Umm, why that frequently ?

You must really like working on cars ?

[uninformed]

thanks guys,

ok so far Im reading as:

the wheel bearings are a matched pair, but different?
the swivel pin bearings are same top and bottom?

I will need:
Hub seal RTC3511, the gasket between swivel ball and axle housing, the gasket between stub axle and swivel housing and gasket at drive flange.
Shim/s for upper swivel pin, gasket for lower swivel pin.
Swivel ball oil seal.
New spacing washer, hub nut, lock washer and lock nut.
Axle shaft shim, axle shaft circlip.

Loctite 270 for some of the bolts.

I have in the past used RTV type sealant at the driveflange. But as Rick sort of mentioned its not clean and presents the problem of having to clean when ever the DF is removed. I also believe (and happy to be corrected) that from a engineering point of view (not an oil seal one) that it better to use the minimum gasket (no gasket at all would be best)

what are the experiences of those doing these more regulary seeing? are the paper no good at all? does grease or Hilomar help?

cheers
Serg

[rick130]

inner and outer races + cones are the same.

I've used grease or spray hylomar on the paper gaskets, same result. No leaks.

I've also used Loctite 518 on the stubs to housing and same result. No leaks.

You shouldn't need a new spindle nut and lock nut unless someone has butchered yours with a cold chisel. (that's actually how I was taught as a teenager I bought my first hub nut socket at 17 )