Red light on A.C.E.

[freedriver]

The other day i was stoped at the lights and felt the car rocking around ., it was blowing a gail outside so i thought that must have been it though it never rocked like that in the wind before . Then , today again stoped at the lights the engine nearly stalled and the A.C.E. red light started flashing and the chime was sounding . As i was in trafic and not far from home i kept going home . As i pulled in the drive the light stoped flashing and stayed on and red .
I hooked up the nanocon and it is showing the faults; 04-02 Direction control vavle 2 , current out of range
circut falt 30
06-01 Hydraulic pressure too low

I have checked for leaks and looked for anything obvious but so far nothing. Have any of you had something similar?
Any ideas on a fix?

Thanks in advance , i would very much like to get this sorted .
Cheers , Bill.

[Graeme]

Can the Nanocom operate the direction control valves to test them? Excepting for the pressure too low fault, I would suspect a faulty coil on the particular direction control valve. With the electrical connector unplugged from the valve block the resistance of the coils can be checked, assuming you have access to the wiring diagram and a multi-meter. It could simply be a bad electrical connection at the valve block.

[freedriver]

Thank you , I will check this out , unfortunately i have been called away to work for a couple of weeks so cant get started on it right away.

[clubagreenie]

nanocom can do assorted tests on the ACE system (will make some horrid sounding noises to accompany)

[takdturk]

my one started flashing red yesterday.
i drove it home, popped the hood and there was no fluid in the resevoir.
woke up this morning to top it up, popped the hood and it was full.
drove down the street, red light starts flashing again so i stopped the car, popped the hood while engine was still running.. empty again.

turned the engine off and saw it filling up veeery slowly,

what going on???? anyone??

[Graeme]

Air in the system so somehow it has lost fluid.

[takdturk]

thanks for that, now how do i bleed the system?

[clubagreenie]

Nanocom

[takdturk]

noooooooooooo:(.... i found a serious leak from the top of the actuator (front right wheel arch)

i need to fix this asap then get it bled. is it hard to replace? does anyone know how much thinner my wallet will get??

i saw actuators on ebay for around $120 for OEM.. what would LR want for one??

[takdturk]

wow. after a bit of searching, im starting to think that noone around here has actually replaced the front ACE actuator.

or is there a fix for the leak without replacing???

[clubagreenie]

I'll have to look under mine to confirm but I think they're a welded cylinder. You might find a hydraulic specialist that will open up and replace the seals and weld back up. But it might be a rod issue, if they corrode then it'll need grinding and rechroming. Then it'd be cheaper for a new one. Check the top (rod) end and see if the cylinder end is welded in or screwed in. If welded check the other end, they occasionally open at the other end and the rod pushes out the bottom.

If it can be done or you want to try let me know. I used to work in the field and can point you to some shops.

[takdturk]

ok.. so ive decided to change the actuator myself. i need urgent advise on which oil i should put in the ace system, one which i can find at supercheap auto or something.

actuator : $200 ace filter $75

and also i would need the system bled.. i live in auburn, sydney ..

thanks

[clubagreenie]

I have a Nanocom and am in seven hills if you want to come over. The oil, only use the LR oil, unless you can drain the whole system, then Penrite make one that's suitable but I actually called then about compatibility and there was some hesitation and avoidance of the question. I have a contact that can get the oil at better than dealer pricing.

[takdturk]

i just pulled everything apart, i struggled a lot with the lower bolt of the actuator it was jammed in the bush. the bush has had it . $250 for LR and $150 OEM. so i went for oem because im not rich.

so tomorrow im gonna go to st peters with the whole anti roll arm, get the bush fitted, pick up my actuator and ace filter, come home and put it all back together. and then i can think about bleeding. if you can help me with that will be much appreciated.

i'll probably go with penrite oil cause i already mixed some cheap power steering fluid into it yesterday just to make it home without running the pump dry.

[freedriver]

I have returned from work early due to cyclone , so today i thought i would have a closer look at the ace problem. I can see a couple of bushes need replacing but everything else looks fine. I pulled all the electrical conections out of the valve block and sprayed with co cleaner , re conected and ran thruogh the tests on the valves with the nanocom started up and i couldn't believe it ! No light and no worries with the ace . I don't know what fixed it but i'm happy it is fixed . All the electric plugs looked clean and tight but maybe there was some poor conection . I think i will change the filter and oil as i think it must be due . Thanks for the help guys , fingers crossed it lasts like this .

[takdturk]

my leak was nearly impossible to detect. why? because when the actuator gave way it started leakin in to the rubber boot. no evidence of fluid..
i recon that boot can take at least 200ml of fluid before it bursts.

secondly the fluid level comes back to normal if you stop the engine. when i started the engine i just saw the resevoir drain,..

so to conclude.. if your losing ace fluid and you cant find a leak anywhere, the fluid might be in your boots

[freedriver]

I'm pretty sure mine is not due to low fluid .I have watched the level with the motor running and looks fine . I really don't know what happened to mine but it is a bit of a worry. I'm happy that it is working fine now but if it is a faulty part , no doubt it will fail again and who knows when or where !