Log in

View Full Version : shocks -more travel



88classic
12th February 2013, 04:35 PM
Hey all this is a special thread for anyone that has gone the extrea mile and uses nissan patrol shocks in the rear and ?????? in the front!..

88classic
12th February 2013, 04:40 PM
I really hate peddars suspension on range rovers..
Its never worked and will not work..... SO WHY ?????.:wasntme:

Slunnie
12th February 2013, 05:11 PM
What was the situation and problem exactly?

88classic
12th February 2013, 05:43 PM
Terrible articulation ..terrible bump stop and my haines hunter cornered better..it was terrible ..every pot hole bump you hit you knew it...So did your back.. It just did not work at all....
Even the pedders franchise owner from Traralgon told me he does not recommend them on range rovers but lets give it a go....
Never again!!!!!!!. he wqas right......

88classic
12th February 2013, 05:47 PM
the franchise in Traralgon closed down a number of years ago.
not sure if anybody fits them or stocks them now in the area..
dont get me wrong .. my brother had them on is xbgt and they worked fine
just didnt cut it for the classic RR.

Slunnie
12th February 2013, 06:30 PM
It does sound like an incorrect fitment. I use Patrol rears in the front of my D2 and they need a fairly long spring to work.

I though it was Landcruiser shocks that people used in the classic coil sprung land rovers anyway.

88classic
12th February 2013, 06:33 PM
Nissan patrol in the rears and land cruiser in the front ..
well thats what im led to believe..
not 100% sure but the guy working on my RRC races them so Im fullof trust at the moment

rick130
12th February 2013, 07:09 PM
It does sound like an incorrect fitment. I use Patrol rears in the front of my D2 and they need a fairly long spring to work.

I though it was Landcruiser shocks that people used in the classic coil sprung land rovers anyway.


Nissan patrol in the rears and land cruiser in the front ..
well thats what im led to believe..
not 100% sure but the guy working on my RRC races them so Im fullof trust at the moment

Yep, TLC 80/100 Series in the front and Patrol rears.

The MQ/GQ/GU leafer rears are a bolt in but need re-valving other wise they are too soft in bump and low speed rebound, coiler rears need a pin to eye converter for the bottom eye.

Front 80/100 Series are a bolt in to the front if you raise the towers, otherwise they'll go metal to metal on full bump.

I minimised the tower raising, (IIRC only 1/4", most lift them 1/2"-3/4") and used thinner rubbers on the shock body side of the pins and had to shorten the bottom pins so they didn't foul the diff housing to maximise bump and droop with Koni's.

Fitting longer bump stops defeats the purpose of longer stroke dampers IMO.

Dougal
20th February 2013, 03:31 PM
Fitting longer bump stops defeats the purpose of longer stroke dampers IMO.

Unless it's been done to clear a bigger engine.:angel:

I've fitted Koni from 80 series cruiser. But the damper rates, even though far better than previously, aren't quite right. Does anyone know what spring rate was found in the front of a diesel 80 series? The Koni's are the same for petrol and diesel 80 series.

rick130
20th February 2013, 03:46 PM
Bump or rebound Dougal ?

I went softer in bump, can't recall which footvalve I actually used, then I changed the stack anyway.

I'll dig up the oil specs you'll want too, IIRC Koni (Shell) oil was the same viscosity as Silkolene Pro RSF 5wt @ 40*C, but I'll double check.
I actually did a basic visometric test, had so many cc's of fluid and timed it draining through an orifice at various temps, then, after all that, a certain Koni agent confirmed the viscosity for me.

Dougal
20th February 2013, 07:09 PM
Bump or rebound Dougal ?

I went softer in bump, can't recall which footvalve I actually used, then I changed the stack anyway.

I'll dig up the oil specs you'll want too, IIRC Koni (Shell) oil was the same viscosity as Silkolene Pro RSF 5wt @ 40*C, but I'll double check.
I actually did a basic visometric test, had so many cc's of fluid and timed it draining through an orifice at various temps, then, after all that, a certain Koni agent confirmed the viscosity for me.

I'd like to go slightly faster rebound. I'm sure my 180lb/in springs are a fair bit softer than whatever Toyota used. Once I get the rebound sorted, compression would be next.
Of course, I'll be going to EAS in the near future, so I won't be putting too much effort in unless I can find some revalvable shocks to suit the airbag front end.

Mine are gas charged monotubes. These are not meant to be user servicable, but there is always a way.:angel:

rick130
20th February 2013, 09:36 PM
Aah, the bloody top of the tube is crimped into the top cap from memory ??

Stripped a pair down when I was young and silly.
Used a 1/16" drill bit to de-pressurise.

The adjuster mechanism is nice and simple.
When you depress the button in the top cap it engages a rotary valve shim on the piston stack that starts to close off bleed ports in the piston as you rotate the shaft.

Nice, simple and repeatable low speed adjustment.

mickashay
21st February 2013, 07:00 PM
i had landcrusier 80 series in the front of my d1 and gq patrol with eye to pin adaptor on the bottom of the shock,worked well,plenty of flex,the bumpstops need extending in the rear,fronts were good,brake lines were extended and were almost still maxing out in the front