110 Auto conversion

[Landiheaven]

Hi to all, I'm new to the forum and was wanting sum advise on converting my '85 110 3.5 lt95 to 3.9 zf 4hp22, seems it'l be a bolt up for the most part, just the trans tunnel and lt230 box lever have me wondering what to do, the disco doner has the transfer lever coming out very close to the seat box end of the tunnel, and as for the auto shifter, not sure where to mount it? I could forget the middle seat and cut a nice hole and mount the shifter on the seat box below where the middle seat would have been? however I don't really want to do away with the third seat! any Ideas? thanks so much, great forum!

[redrovertdi]

Use the transfer lever mount that comes/bolts onto the ZF, the lever position is slightly to the left of my tunnel but still in front of the seat box, my t bar is mounted between the hand brake and transfer lever but mine is a 95 110 and has a fibreglass gearbox tunnel, i covered the manual gear lever hole.
Richard

[Landiheaven]

Thanks Richard, The LT95 tunnel piece that attachs to the seatbox has an inconveniant bulge right where you put your T Bar, maybe it's not needed with the new LT230? thanks Martin

[trumby]

This is a good idea apart from limited down hill engine braking you get with a manual box but I can live with that. I to am looking at doing the same so If you decide to do It pop it under Projects and Tutorials and remember the rules lots of pictures. I have a silver duel cab ute series 111 stage 1 [see youtube land rover custom] but also have a 1985 110 for which I wont the coil spring and power steering set up, so its a body swap, with fire wall mod. But for a carton of beer I bought a rrclassic so I was planning on cutting the tunnel and transmit ion support out of that and using its trans cooler for my fix. Anyway welcome and good luck.:)

[Landiheaven]

Yeah I will do if I go ahead with it thanks! LT95's are getting a little thin on the ground here, possibly just maybe, if I could rebuild a 95 to not graunch and sort the horrendous backlash, oh and change the high range gears to at least 1.174 instead of the 1.33, I would retain it. Also I would have to find a way for the 95 to run a VSS as I think the 14CUX needs some input to determine if the vehicle is moving or not

[Sitec]

What ratio transfer case is on the back of your auto? Going from disco to 110 you might have to drop it a ratio.... I have a 1.222:1 and a 1.410:1 in the shed, but am looking for a 1.192:1 as I'm fitting a Tdi and 5 speed into a SWB Ser 2 rag top. The wife's request was a light, responsive 'fun truck' based on a Series vehicle. Should fill the criteria eh!! PM me if interested. Cheers!

[Landiheaven]

Hi there, I reckon 1.4 gears would be way better than the 1.211 of the disco in a 110. I have a RR 1.192 lt230 in the shed also and a 26d 1.003 ratio if you really want to cruise! Freight a problem, in NZ here though:(

[Landiheaven]

Sitec, We all need wives like yours! If only mine would share my enthusiasm for them like yours, Hoping that converting to auto will get her in the 110, maybe!

[redrovertdi]

Mine is a 300tdi 110 with disco zf4hp22, i changed the transfer case later to a disco lt230 for the taller gearing which dropped approx 400revs[at 100ks], i do alot of rough off road and the auto in low first behind the diesel[not petrol v8] is brilliant.
Richard

[Sitec]

Damn! 192 and 003! Both boxes I'd have been very interested in but didn't spot the NZ bit.... Are the gears interchangeable in these boxes or are the casings different....? Have a workmate who flys in and out of NZ every 2 weeks... He'd look a bit odd carrying an LT230 on as hand luggage!!! :D As for SWIMBO, yeah, very lucky there, we have this agreement tho, if I blow $1000 on silly locking diffs and stuff, she gets to spend the same on 'other stuff'.... Just happened last time that she needs an LT77 and Tfer box for the project... Win win for me, Lockers and a gearbox in the shed! Could only find 1.222:1 tho not the 1.192:1 which I think would give the light truck the legs it needs!! As redrovertdi said, I'd try the 1.222:1 before changing it, my 130 with 1.410:1 is flat flat out at 120kph even running 285's!

[Landiheaven]

Haha an LT230 as hand luggage! love it! Damn sure that the gears only can come out and interchange between 230's these boxes have the staked nut to set preload on the intermediate gears, I think, be much easier to send the gearset over not the whole box, I wouldn't have thought there would be much in it between 1.192/1.22? I use this Ashcroft Transmissions - Ratio Calculator (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html). The disco zf and 230 should be around 2-2100 rpm at 100kph in OD, which I can see as being overgeared for a 110, and that is with just 32" tyres, It screams its nuts with the 95 and 1.33 gears at 100 like 33-3400 rpm, probably why it does 20L/100!

[Landiheaven]

Rang a guy called Eli Friedlander who has imported and rebuilt thousands of Land Rovers as Forward Specialties, Kind of put me off the ZF, Said I should just rebuild the 95 and use a higher range set 1.174, or even 0.996, He has quite a few ex army LT95's plenty of parts, mostly new or good S/h. I think the 95 is a good v8 box really, just the backlash that brasses me off the most, I feather the clutch automatically when I drive, but others it's bang,bang,bang!

[Slunnie]

I used a RRC lt230 into my series and the transfer lever came out in front of the seat box. I made a new tunnel and mounted the autos gear lever beside it.

[Bearman]

Rang a guy called Eli Friedlander who has imported and rebuilt thousands of Land Rovers as Forward Specialties, Kind of put me off the ZF, Said I should just rebuild the 95 and use a higher range set 1.174, or even 0.996, He has quite a few ex army LT95's plenty of parts, mostly new or good S/h. I think the 95 is a good v8 box really, just the backlash that brasses me off the most, I feather the clutch automatically when I drive, but others it's bang,bang,bang!

G'day landiheaven, Sorry to go off topic a bit but couldn't help but comment. With the LT95 you will find the backlash will be either in the intermediate shaft or centre diff (gears or cross shafts worn) or in the driveline (uj's,slip joints,front/rear diff centres or axle drive flanges). The intermediate shaft and centre diff are easy enough to fix even without removing the box and similarly with the rest of the driveline. If the slop is in the driveline fitting another gearbox will not fix it.

[Landiheaven]

G'day landiheaven, Sorry to go off topic a bit but couldn't help but comment. With the LT95 you will find the backlash will be either in the intermediate shaft or centre diff (gears or cross shafts worn) or in the driveline (uj's,slip joints,front/rear diff centres or axle drive flanges). The intermediate shaft and centre diff are easy enough to fix even without removing the box and similarly with the rest of the driveline. If the slop is in the driveline fitting another gearbox will not fix it.

Thanks Bearman, I was wanting dialogue on the LT95 thing, I just wonder if I should be butchering an otherwise very tidy and straight '85 110 to run with the auto, I actually don't mind the 95 at all, for most of what I do, it's perfect, just more comfortable road speeds would be nice. I removed the PTO cover to look at slop and I think you're on the money with the intermediate shaft. The slop is not noticably better with the CDL engaged. Backlash in diffs and axle splines is minimal. One thing that I noticed, when I got the 110, backing up in reverse, it would bang like the CDL was engaging, well I tested this by removing one rear axle from the salisbury(had to snitch up wheel Bearing) had CDL open then engaged reverse at an idle. Freewheeled for a few seconds then BANG, front axle engaged and lurched backward. What is going on with the CDL? It appears permanantly locked now:o

[redrovertdi]

In my opinion only- the auto will make it a much nicer/smoother car to drive and live with...
Richard

[Landiheaven]

thanks red rover, I tend to agree, if I can get a 1.4 ratio cog for the 230!

[Rick Fischer]

Recall that the auto discos 1 and II had lower ratio diffs (higher geared) than the manuals.

Cheers

RF

[Landiheaven]

Recall that the auto discos 1 and II had lower ratio diffs (higher geared) than the manuals.

Cheers

RF

Aren't they all 3.54 ratio? cheers

[Bearman]

Thanks Bearman, I was wanting dialogue on the LT95 thing, I just wonder if I should be butchering an otherwise very tidy and straight '85 110 to run with the auto, I actually don't mind the 95 at all, for most of what I do, it's perfect, just more comfortable road speeds would be nice. I removed the PTO cover to look at slop and I think you're on the money with the intermediate shaft. The slop is not noticably better with the CDL engaged. Backlash in diffs and axle splines is minimal. One thing that I noticed, when I got the 110, backing up in reverse, it would bang like the CDL was engaging, well I tested this by removing one rear axle from the salisbury(had to snitch up wheel Bearing) had CDL open then engaged reverse at an idle. Freewheeled for a few seconds then BANG, front axle engaged and lurched backward. What is going on with the CDL? It appears permanantly locked now:o

Sounds like your vacuum cdl actuator or switch is u/s and the cdl is now locked. You can check it by getting underneath and pulling both air lines off the actuator. Get a length of hose the same size and with it attached to the rear nipple fitting on the vacuum cylinder suck on it. You can feel when it disengages and your tongue should stick to the end of the hose. If it doesn't and you can still keep sucking and the cdl is still locked there is a good chance your vacuum actuator is u/s. If it works ok check the switch is ok by starting the engine (in neutral and handbrake on) get back underneath and check if there is vacuum at one of the hoses you have disconnected. Flip the switch and the vacuum should be at the other hose. If there is no vacuum there it's either a u/s switch or no vacuum is going to the switch - in this case follow the hose and check all connections until you find the problem.

[Slunnie]

Recall that the auto discos 1 and II had lower ratio diffs (higher geared) than the manuals.

Cheers

RF

They're all 3.54