Anyone had major issues with 3.6TDV8

[Meccles]

Hi just a general query. I have a 3.6TDV8 in a 2010 RRS and have noticed on RRSport forum that some of the guys have started to have some major failures with this engine. While this was on the RRSport Forum, the same engine is in the FF. Anyone know if this is isolated or is this engine getting history/reputation for major failure as it gets older? Mine has 45000Km on it I had to had one turbo repaired due to siezed rod that alters the geometry. However, some in UK are reporting complete and major engine failure, with LR unable to supply replacement exchange motors in timely manner due to lack of supply of cores. Hope this is isolated cases only!

[Laurie]

I haven't heard of anything ! FFRR has no more than alternators and some broken exhaust manifold studs; and high mileage units seem only need to replace suspension bushes. The only BIG reminder is to have the auto flushed and filter replaced at 60k - 80k depending on use. Same old story ;) oil and filter need to be changed or the grit starts trouble in the T/C, a few here on the D3 forum have had boxes replaced after T/C failure on higher mileage autos.

[33chinacars]

A bloke I spoke to a few days ago told me his uncle had to replace a turbo on a 2009 model. Dont know if its a problem and I dont have any more info on this fault. Sorry

Gary

[Meccles]

Thanks. I changed the oil on the tranny at 43000km fitted the metal pan. Plus have changed diff/transfer case oils. However the failure on the forum in UK was fairly substantial (seized engine) issue the owner was having was lack of availablity of replacement engines from LR. The question being asked was a) was this because it was so rare? or b) was this because it was common, and all replacements had been used? Of course we all hope it was a)! If you have a read of thread "not so bullet proof TDV8" on RRSport.co.uk you will get better idea.

[Homestar]

The guy I work with has one in his 2010 RRS with 95KKM on it now, all without issue. I would think if it makes it that far that it wouldn't suffer a major failure now... Hope they are isolated cases, they are an awesome engine.

[Laurie]

I have just read that article in the RRSport forum, very interesting. My initial thoughts were after the first turbo failure some metal or other contaminate might have got in the system which led to the later failure. Will have to wait to hear of the cause when that engine is stripped. Bad fuel or even bio-diesel in these motors will/can cause catastrophic failures, all makes with these hi-tech engines are in the same boat. Australia is one of only a few countries that legislate the quality of fuels to be sold to the public ;)


A quick search on FFRR found only 2 complete turbo failures with only one having to have a head removed to find some metal from the turbo. I wonder if the engine compartment and the twin turbo setup is to blame. To remove the RH turbo in the Sport you have to lift the body :eek: so I thinks airflow and cooling has to be restricted if space is that confined.
My other thoughts come back to the dreaded EGR setup, all that crap being recirculated can't help the engine or the oil, given that oil is the blood that keeps things spinning, especially when using 2 turbo's in the Sports confined engine space, and those turbo oil lines aren't that big. ( think cholesterol in the arteries :p)

I have a BIG preference for inline 6 cylinder diesels , that's why the Td6 is so appealing :D more room, better cooling, longevity and extremely reliable. And much more tolerant to fuel quality. If we can get the auto problems sorted I would fit a variable vane turbo and re-chip the engine for a comfortable and reliable 250 hp and 420ft/lbs of torque, higher power is available but torque figures drop off !!!

Now back to finding the auto solution !!!

Laurie








I suppose the easy way to find out about engine availability; would be to ask a LR spares dept the cost and availability of a crate motor ?

Laurie

[Homestar]

to remove the RH turbo in the Sport you have to lift the body :eek:



Remember that this is not a big deal or a long job if you have a hoist. Was done the Stealers a couple of weeks ago, and there was 2 sports and a D4 with the body off sitting to the side of the hoist. I asked the workshop manager about how many jobs they did that for, and his relpy was a heap as it is a doddle to work on with the body out of the way.

Takes about 25 minutes to pull it off - it is designed that way.

Cheers - Gav

[sheerluck]

And if you haven't got a hoist......you need to be the size of Tom Thumb to get to where you need to. :D

[Laurie]

Thanks Gav :D I would have thought at least a few hours.

Is the turbo layout or ancillaries different on the RR Sport to the L322 ? Their failure rate seems to indicate there certainly is something majorly different !

Laurie

[Homestar]

And if you haven't got a hoist......you need to be the size of Tom Thumb to get to where you need to. :D

Yeah, and magic spanners that can just appear on the nuts...:D


Thanks Gav :D I would have thought at least a few hours.

Is the turbo layout or ancillaries different on the RR Sport to the L322 ? Their failure rate seems to indicate there certainly is something majorly different !

Laurie

Not sure, But as you can't pull the body off an L322 there must be some way of getting to them...?

[666spt]

the right hand turbo can be replaced easy with the body on, i just removed mine and rebuilt turbo with new core and vct and refitted it, everyone i spoke to told me it cant be done, but it is easy to do on stands, drop the gearbox crossmember and the engine pipe and there is heaps of room then remove rim and plastic inner guard and all the heat sheilds there is about 5 or 6 then its easy as to unbolt turbo and remove it, it was an 8 hour job start to finish with new cooler pipes as well

[rar110]

the right hand turbo can be replaced easy with the body on, i just removed mine and rebuilt turbo with new core and vct and refitted it, everyone i spoke to told me it cant be done, but it is easy to do on stands, drop the gearbox crossmember and the engine pipe and there is heaps of room then remove rim and plastic inner guard and all the heat sheilds there is about 5 or 6 then its easy as to unbolt turbo and remove it, it was an 8 hour job start to finish with new cooler pipes as well

Any photos of doing this job?

[rar110]

My 2008 3.6 tdv8 has 290,000 km. It’s a beautiful running motor. No issues at all with the motor. But I have disabled the EGRs, I use fuel treatments and induction treatment, I use engine oil flush treatment and it gets a change every 10,000km. I also clean the MAP sensors about once a year.

I have just had a AC compressor fail which flung a piece into the trans/cooler pipe, rupturing the line resulting in a trans fluid dump. But I’ve never heard of this happening on any motor.

[666spt]

Any photos of doing this job?no i don't I did the turbo 3 weeks ago and I only joined this site couple of days ago if I had of known about this site at the time I would of taken pics, but if anyone is after any info on doing this send me a pm and I can talk you through it cheers dean

[666spt]

My 2008 3.6 tdv8 has 290,000 km. It’s a beautiful running motor. No issues at all with the motor. But I have disabled the EGRs, I use fuel treatments and induction treatment, I use engine oil flush treatment and it gets a change every 10,000km. I also clean the MAP sensors about once a year.

I have just had a AC compressor fail which flung a piece into the trans/cooler pipe, rupturing the line resulting in a trans fluid dump. But I’ve never heard of this happening on any motor.
this type of thing happens from time to time with failing parts ive seen pulleys come loose and take out radiators and punch dents in bonnets, ive seen blower belts take out cold air intakes and radiator hoses, ive had alternator pulleys explode and go through the bonnet, the problem is you cant see the front of the motor so inspecting the belts and pulleys on these vehicles is near impossible, even though you are trying to look after the internals of your engine metal fatigue and parts failure do happen, I would make sure you check your intake pipes for damage as they are moulded around the ac pulley and the last thing you need is a hole in the intake pipe as itll get dirt and dust into the turbo and cause a turbo failure cheers dean

[2nd Rower]

My 2008 3.6 tdv8 has 290,000 km. It’s a beautiful running motor. No issues at all with the motor. But I have disabled the EGRs, I use fuel treatments and induction treatment, I use engine oil flush treatment and it gets a change every 10,000km. I also clean the MAP sensors about once a year. .

Can you tell me more about the fuel treatment and induction treatment please?

I'm considering EGR disablement - I've been quoted about $1k as part of a remap - is this what you had done?

[rar110]

I used emulators successfully to disable the EGRs. I should check on the intake manifolds now these have been fitted for 3 years. Remap is another option. Eg using the Bell Auto Services BAS with Iid Tool.

I’ve used Revive induction treatment a couple of times, once was probably enough. The 1st treatment made a noticeable improvement to engine smoothness. Not that the motor was running rough.

I use CEM & LiquiMoly engine flush. This results in engine oil staying much cleaner for longer. Some hypothesise blocked turbo oil feed/drain is a reason or contributes to failure. Less oil sediments makes sense to me.

I use CEM, Motul, RL2 fuel treatments. But I can’t point to any noticeable improvements. But I’m happy to keep using them.