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mfc
26th March 2013, 09:42 AM
Morning all,
Over the next week/easter im swapping engines in my 56" with a later 2 L which is a lot fresher.
any tips, warnings,words of advice not covered in the manual?

ps putting new g box and engine mounts in as well,and have asistants and a hoist.
regards mark
{best to be aware before easter}
all being well its then safty inspection and vic roads after the holidays

incisor
26th March 2013, 09:57 AM
sounds like a fun weekend!

enjoy...

andy_d110
26th March 2013, 11:14 AM
Core plugs!!!

mfc
26th March 2013, 12:01 PM
core plugs done, also valves, w pump and timing chain..

wrinklearthur
26th March 2013, 08:40 PM
It sounds good to go.
.

series1buff
26th March 2013, 09:10 PM
Morning all,
Over the next week/easter im swapping engines in my 56" with a later 2 L which is a lot fresher.
any tips, warnings,words of advice not covered in the manual?

ps putting new g box and engine mounts in as well,and have asistants and a hoist.
regards mark
{best to be aware before easter}
all being well its then safty inspection and vic roads after the holidays

Hi

I hope it all goes well..... the later 2 litre motors had a different starter motor setup - it works in reverse to the earlier engines , I think you need the correct bell housing to match things up

Mike

mfc
26th March 2013, 09:24 PM
Hi

I hope it all goes well..... the later 2 litre motors had a different starter motor setup - it works in reverse to the earlier engines , I think you need the correct bell housing to match things up

Mike

yea i have to check that tomorow{i had a breif glance and they seem the same} ive got both the bellhousings and starters,but i dont know if the donor works, worst case its swap belhousings i guess . the workshop and parts manual list the same for both engines going by serial no....

wrinklearthur
26th March 2013, 09:31 PM
Hi

I hope it all goes well..... the later 2 litre motors had a different starter motor setup - it works in reverse to the earlier engines , I think you need the correct bell housing to match things up

Mike

The starter motor shaft spins the same direction, but the pinion cog engages the ring gear from the gearbox side from 1955 onwards.
The bell housing needs to be the type with a longer protrusion of the side of the housing to accommodate the longer bendix spring arrangement .
.

mfc
31st March 2013, 07:38 AM
hmmm.... meter plug for oil line banjo bolt.
there was none . Would this in combination with buggered inlet valve seals lead to oil being sucked into the cylinders and excess oil sitting under the rocker cover?
Any idea who sells them?

series1buff
31st March 2013, 10:41 AM
hmmm.... meter plug for oil line banjo bolt.
there was none . Would this in combination with buggered inlet valve seals lead to oil being sucked into the cylinders and excess oil sitting under the rocker cover?
Any idea who sells them?

You might have to make one up..... Do you have any small drills ?

I will have a look and see if I can find one ...... at least to measure the hole in it

Mike

PS just went outside and pulled the banjo off a spare head..would you believe it, the metering plug is missing #$%%&&

At a guess the hole is about .050 " diameter

wrinklearthur
31st March 2013, 11:58 AM
just went outside and pullebd the banjo off a spare head..would you believe it, the metering plug is missing

I wonder where it ended up, are those banjo bolts interchangeable?

.

series1buff
31st March 2013, 02:50 PM
I wonder where it ended up, are those banjo bolts interchangeable?

.

The metering plug often goes missing as people pull the head off and the plug falls out .... it is a tiny part , and on the ground among dirt and leaves , it is overlooked when the head is put back on :confused:

The bolts are the same I think .. but the lower one holds the oil pressure sender unit ... will have to check that before a definitive answer

Mike

mfc
1st April 2013, 01:56 AM
thanks mike,i knew it was there{suposedly} so didnt loose it......also have fine drills and hand drill so if its feasable ill try and knock one up

new` engine and mounts in ,just gotta bolt up genny /belt, starter moror ,rad panel back on
and my main fear ,distributor in Should i use the known functional one or the new engines one....thought being that neither housings{upper aloy distrib housing} have been moved ..

series1buff
1st April 2013, 09:18 AM
thanks mike,i knew it was there{suposedly} so didnt loose it......also have fine drills and hand drill so if its feasable ill try and knock one up

new` engine and mounts in ,just gotta bolt up genny /belt, starter moror ,rad panel back on
and my main fear ,distributor in Should i use the known functional one or the new engines one....thought being that neither housings have been moved ..

I might be able to turn some up on my lathe, but it is a very fiddly and small part , I'd have to hold the piece in a collet . I don't have a collect chuck yet , I do have the collets :)

Mike

mfc
1st April 2013, 05:21 PM
I might be able to turn some up on my lathe, but it is a very fiddly and small part , I'd have to hold the piece in a collet . I don't have a collect chuck yet , I do have the collets :)

Mike

bolts...are..basicly..the..same..but..lower..one.. is..at..least..a..cm..shorter
im..putting..oil,,in..tonight[nanna,,nap,,atm]..ill..mesure..the..lengths..before..for..future.. reference..someones...gunna..need..to..know..in..t he..future

mfc
1st April 2013, 05:46 PM
its a solo nightmare the first time....
tips
1...take at least one guard off and lower engine from side of car
2 cut out/unbolt{lmfao...grind off} engine mounts...locate clutch plate with rrc jack handle}thick joining section if you havent got a scrap g box input shaft
3 the blackburn guys engine mounts are a real tight fit and not whitworth threaded{af or metric threadi asume}
4 save a half day and dont get an indian waterpump
5 have taps and dies about even if metric and imp
6 bolts from an 1955 engine arnt nesisarily the same as an 88 inch engine often different lengths{mm's difference but thats all it takes}
7 the blackburn gasket kits dont have a exhaust manifold to pipe gasket
8 fresh tetnus inoculation ,band aids,and a merchant seamans vocabulary are esential

mfc
1st April 2013, 05:54 PM
its a solo nightmare the first time....
tips
1...take at least one guard off and lower engine from side of car
2 cut out/unbolt{lmfao...grind off} engine mounts...locate clutch plate with rrc jack handle}thick joining section if you havent got a scrap g box input shaft
3 the blackburn guys engine mounts are a real tight fit and not whitworth threaded{af or metric threadi asume}
4 save a half day and dont get an indian waterpump
5 have taps and dies about even if metric and imp
6 bolts from an 1955 engine arnt nesisarily the same as an 88 inch engine often different lengths{mm's difference but thats all it takes}
7 the blackburn gasket kits dont have a exhaust manifold to pipe gasket
8 fresh tetnus inoculation ,band aids,and a merchant seamans vocabulary are esential

mfc
3rd April 2013, 04:56 PM
started on 3rd push of button :o
no fuel or oil stink in exhaust...
very light light grey smoke..
unnoticeable fumes from vents
Still sounding rough and to loud{buggered gasket between manifold and exhaust , so needs tuneing and tinkering

Anyone got any thoughts on "running" it in, the po said it had new rings and I replaced the big ends{mains were fine} as well as new valves{exhaust} and timing chain and full re gasket
I cant set oil relief valve as im wating on an adapter to fit a mechanical one and the smiths warning light sensor..

another side benefit is that the clutch has improved, the plate used to stick and the car would give a slight lurch {mm's just felt it}.also gone is the irregular need to change into 4 or 3rd bto get into reverse / first......

so youre thoughts on its first few miles would be appreciated greatly
regards mark

chazza
3rd April 2013, 06:43 PM
Anyone got any thoughts on "running" it in, the po said it had new rings and I replaced the big ends{mains were fine} as well as new valves{exhaust} and timing chain and full re gasket
I cant set oil relief valve as im wating on an adapter to fit a mechanical one and the smiths warning light sensor..



G'day Mark,
1. Use a running-in oil.
2. Avoid excessive idling.
3. Go for a longish trip (1 to 2 hrs) on an undulating road; give it full throttle on hills, whilst in top-gear; this helps bed the rings to the bore because of the extra gas pressure in the cylinder. You can do the trip in stages, as long as you use a wide range of throttle positions, e.g. 4 trips of 1/2 hour.
4. Fit a magnet to the sump plug.
5. if you have fitted a new camshaft, run it in at 2200rpm for at least 20 minutes to work harden the lobes, otherwise the lobes will kark it - don't ask me how I know this! :(

What do you mean by a mechanical relief-valve? Doesn't it have the spring and plunger, mechanical-type anyway?

Cheers Charlie

mfc
3rd April 2013, 09:31 PM
mechanical oil pressure guage...you set the screw out spring /ball valve to give a certain psi at a set speed..

comp test hot 120 ,114 ,120,117

realy starting to smoke {normal colour/normal smell} scince the old engine spat oil out the tail pipe im assuming most of this is oil in the exhaust pipe and mixture timing {that logical?} its still 100 percent on the old one...

im running it for 10 to 15 mins at different revs{lowish} while im tinkering with it ...

mfc
4th April 2013, 08:34 AM
The metering plug often goes missing as people pull the head off and the plug falls out .... it is a tiny part , and on the ground among dirt and leaves , it is overlooked when the head is put back on :confused:

The bolts are the same I think .. but the lower one holds the oil pressure sender unit ... will have to check that before a definitive answer

Mike

same thread ,hole etc but the pressure switch one is at least a cm shorter