300Tdi water pump bolt issues?

[philco]

After many discussions with ppl that said changing the water pump on a 300 tdi motor was a 2 or 3 hour job, i decided to do it myself, being a fixed plant fitter i thought it cant be that hard, i found a detailed description on the british site LR4x4 and copied it down then followed it. i got to the PAS pump bolts and 2 came out easy, the third took 2 hours, after taking off the fan and cowling then attacking the bolt head with a grinder i finally got the pulley off then the bolt unscrewed easily. next was the 3 long bolts into the block, 2 i got out, the third i ran out of daylight and patience, well today is another day so will heat up the block and try to remove it without breaking it. I found a cool socket set from IRWIN for undoing bolts and they say it wont slip off. so will try them. I am wondering if anyone else has had the same issue with their water pump?

[jboot51]

common problem with water pump bolts on a 300TDI
good chance you'll need a few new ones

I covered mine in copper kote upon reinstallation

[Diff]

yes and I believe I ended up using the sockent you mentioned to remove bolts with rounded heads. The P gasket needs to be replaced as it has allowed coolant to leak into the bolts and rust them. The job just got bigger

[rick130]

The three long bolts need to be replaced with updated cad plated ones to resist corrosion.

Your parts supplier will know exactly which ones, they are usually sold with a new pump and P gasket.

[philco]

yep the job just got bigger, what i would like to know is if i cut the head off the bolt sliding the pump out over the cut bolt then use inox or similar onto the thread going into the block then use vise grips or stilsons on the bolt shaft to undo it.
the bolt head is turning but the thread is stuck solid into the block thread so it will not undo

[philco]

The three long bolts need to be replaced with updated cad plated ones to resist corrosion.

Your parts supplier will know exactly which ones, they are usually sold with a new pump and P gasket.

Thanks, i got the pump from the UK and the P gasket local but they didn't suggest to use the cad plated bolts

[460cixy]

I did mine yesterday inside 45 mins just cut the head off if its had the Richard and un do it with a stud extractor once the water pump is off

[philco]

Well i got the grinder out, cut the head off, took off the impeller front part of the pump. no worries there, undone the PAS pump, got that out of the way, got all the bolts undone, so only the bolt with the head cut off was left. good i thought this is going well. then tried to get the pump back to slide out over the cut bolt. . . . . . . no go. been hitting it with hammer and blocks of wood, wedging it, juggling it left right up down, still not coming off.
I am guessing the rust has built up and jammed the hole so it wont slide off.
I started to spray in INOX and that started to free it up, got a can of ROST OFF out and been spraying it into the hole beside the bolt and now its pouring down with rain so will leave it for a while to work then have another go.

[philco]

tried to upload a couple of pics but it wont work sorry, will try later

[jboot51]

Take your time with it, that aux mounting bracket, between block and pump, is worth its weight in gold. $415 from LRA

ERR3736 is the part number.

Bolts to suit are-
ERR5691 X 1 STUD M8 X 52
FY108046 X 1 NUT M8
FC108137 X 1 BOLT M8 X 65
FB108261 X 1 BOLT M8 X 130
FS108307L X 5 BOLT M8 X 30
FC108247 X 3 BOLT M8 X 120

Make sure you use a torque wrench as they can snap or the aluminium will strip.

[philco]

i called a mechanic from MR Automotive in Redland bay,Qld. the guy was really helpful. suggested drilling a couple of holes into where the bolt is and spraying ROST OFF or INOX into them to soften the rust.
also as a last measure to cut it with a say if can get it apart enough but the alloy would need to be re-welded and ground.
Definitely a last resort.
I decided to drill a couple of holes into the bolt hole from the top, then sprayed copious amounts of INOX into them and will leave over night.
Next big job i will Definitely book the truck into MR Automotive. Thanks guys.

[philco]

Update on the removal of the water pump.
Wed morn i got up thinking i'm not going to let this beat me.
So i went out, opened the bonnet, looked at it then decided, i will drill through the alloy mount and through the bolt.
I started with a 3mm long drill bit then used a 4.5mm long drill bit.
I tapped the cast alloy about 3 or 4 times and it came off.
"YES" so pleased.
I unscrewed the thread out of the block with my fingers as it was easy to do.
Just like the MR automotive mechanic told me it would be.
I took the cast alloy backing and had to drill half way through the hole to remove the old bolt as it was so rusted up.
The old gasket was not there any more, totally disintegrated.

There was no way i would have ever been able to remove it any other way.
So cleaned everything up, replaced the old bolts with new high tensile ones and covered with coppercote to stop any rust and used a blue gasket silicone both sides of the gaskets and bolted everything back together.
Once i cleaned everything up it only took 1 and half hours to put everything back together.
While i had the gasket goo out i decided to do the rocker cover as well.
No more leaks from the top.
next job is gasket the sump to slow the driveway drips.

[philco]

a couple of photos i had taken.
the first one is the original pump, it had sat for 4 years before i bought it so that is probably why the rust is only on half that was in water.
the second is the bolt head i had to cut off to take the pump off.
this one was totally rusted in the hole.

[philco]

some more pics
The bolt in the motor block.
the rusted bolt in the cast alloy.
Bolt hole blocked by rusted bolt.
bolt holes once I had drilled out the rusted bolt.
I also drilled the other holes out so the corrosion was removed.
Cleaned parts all ready to install with new gaskets and bolts.

[Outlaw]

Nice work [thumbsupbig]

[jboot51]

Well done.

[Nomad9]

Hi Philco,
Don't worry there is always someone worse off than yourself.............. When I bought my D1 the previous owner a "diesel fitter" had replaced the water pump, only he sheared one of the bolts off, fitted the water pump, somehow got the gaskets to seal and then sold the vehicle on.
Luckily I bought it, six months after purchase the P gasket started leaking, I had a hells own job getting the aluminium casing off the engine block, ended up breaking the casting and having to fit a second hand one from TRS. I got to the point where I was trying to drill the stud out, ended up with the radiator out and nearly the whole engine coming out.
Fixed it properly and it never leaked again, yes I fitted the cad plated bolts and used the copper anti-seize, it will never seize up again.
Mine was what I would regard as a nightmare..........

[philco]

Nomad9 glad mine was not that bad. Thanks for the encorougement. When you have never fiddled with the motor in the car, it can be a bit daunting. My first car was a mk1 escort, by the time i had owned it 2 years, the motor had been changed 3 times and the clutch done. I knew it inside out. The 300tdi sort of slowed me down being a turbo and a diesel. Now i'm more confident with it. I think i better get the hayes service manual as i feel the LR one is a bit lacking.

[chencq]

Nomad9 glad mine was not that bad. Thanks for the encorougement. When you have never fiddled with the motor in the car, it can be a bit daunting. My first car was a mk1 escort, by the time i had owned it 2 years, the motor had been changed 3 times and the clutch done. I knew it inside out. The 300tdi sort of slowed me down being a turbo and a diesel. Now i'm more confident with it. I think i better get the hayes service manual as i feel the LR one is a bit lacking.

Luckly I done my P gasket really easy.

You can get 300Tdi workshop manual form below link. I bought the same book for AUD$90 before I found it on internet.:(

Land Rover Parts - DEFENDER (http://www.roverparts.com.au/defender)

[Jode]

Nomad9 glad mine was not that bad. Thanks for the encorougement. When you have never fiddled with the motor in the car, it can be a bit daunting. My first car was a mk1 escort, by the time i had owned it 2 years, the motor had been changed 3 times and the clutch done. I knew it inside out. The 300tdi sort of slowed me down being a turbo and a diesel. Now i'm more confident with it. I think i better get the hayes service manual as i feel the LR one is a bit lacking.
The "paines" manuals have a poor reputation on the LR UK website (landrovernet.com); having said that their manual for the SU carbs (which our now-sold V8 had) is quite good.