common problem with water pump bolts on a 300TDI
good chance you'll need a few new ones
I covered mine in copper kote upon reinstallation
After many discussions with ppl that said changing the water pump on a 300 tdi motor was a 2 or 3 hour job, i decided to do it myself, being a fixed plant fitter i thought it cant be that hard, i found a detailed description on the british site LR4x4 and copied it down then followed it. i got to the PAS pump bolts and 2 came out easy, the third took 2 hours, after taking off the fan and cowling then attacking the bolt head with a grinder i finally got the pulley off then the bolt unscrewed easily. next was the 3 long bolts into the block, 2 i got out, the third i ran out of daylight and patience, well today is another day so will heat up the block and try to remove it without breaking it. I found a cool socket set from IRWIN for undoing bolts and they say it wont slip off. so will try them. I am wondering if anyone else has had the same issue with their water pump?
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
						common problem with water pump bolts on a 300TDI
good chance you'll need a few new ones
I covered mine in copper kote upon reinstallation
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
yes and I believe I ended up using the sockent you mentioned to remove bolts with rounded heads. The P gasket needs to be replaced as it has allowed coolant to leak into the bolts and rust them. The job just got bigger
The three long bolts need to be replaced with updated cad plated ones to resist corrosion.
Your parts supplier will know exactly which ones, they are usually sold with a new pump and P gasket.
yep the job just got bigger, what i would like to know is if i cut the head off the bolt sliding the pump out over the cut bolt then use inox or similar onto the thread going into the block then use vise grips or stilsons on the bolt shaft to undo it.
the bolt head is turning but the thread is stuck solid into the block thread so it will not undo
I did mine yesterday inside 45 mins just cut the head off if its had the Richard and un do it with a stud extractor once the water pump is off
Well i got the grinder out, cut the head off, took off the impeller front part of the pump. no worries there, undone the PAS pump, got that out of the way, got all the bolts undone, so only the bolt with the head cut off was left. good i thought this is going well. then tried to get the pump back to slide out over the cut bolt. . . . . . . no go. been hitting it with hammer and blocks of wood, wedging it, juggling it left right up down, still not coming off.
I am guessing the rust has built up and jammed the hole so it wont slide off.
I started to spray in INOX and that started to free it up, got a can of ROST OFF out and been spraying it into the hole beside the bolt and now its pouring down with rain so will leave it for a while to work then have another go.
tried to upload a couple of pics but it wont work sorry, will try later
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
						Take your time with it, that aux mounting bracket, between block and pump, is worth its weight in gold. $415 from LRA
ERR3736 is the part number.
Bolts to suit are-
ERR5691 X 1 STUD M8 X 52
FY108046 X 1 NUT M8
FC108137 X 1 BOLT M8 X 65
FB108261 X 1 BOLT M8 X 130
FS108307L X 5 BOLT M8 X 30
FC108247 X 3 BOLT M8 X 120
Make sure you use a torque wrench as they can snap or the aluminium will strip.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks