Thread: 300Tdi water pump bolt issues?

Update on the removal of the water pump.
Wed morn i got up thinking i'm not going to let this beat me.
So i went out, opened the bonnet, looked at it then decided, i will drill through the alloy mount and through the bolt.
I started with a 3mm long drill bit then used a 4.5mm long drill bit.
I tapped the cast alloy about 3 or 4 times and it came off.
"YES" so pleased.
I unscrewed the thread out of the block with my fingers as it was easy to do.
Just like the MR automotive mechanic told me it would be.
I took the cast alloy backing and had to drill half way through the hole to remove the old bolt as it was so rusted up.
The old gasket was not there any more, totally disintegrated.

There was no way i would have ever been able to remove it any other way.
So cleaned everything up, replaced the old bolts with new high tensile ones and covered with coppercote to stop any rust and used a blue gasket silicone both sides of the gaskets and bolted everything back together.
Once i cleaned everything up it only took 1 and half hours to put everything back together.
While i had the gasket goo out i decided to do the rocker cover as well.
No more leaks from the top.
next job is gasket the sump to slow the driveway drips.

a couple of photos i had taken.
the first one is the original pump, it had sat for 4 years before i bought it so that is probably why the rust is only on half that was in water.
the second is the bolt head i had to cut off to take the pump off.
this one was totally rusted in the hole.

some more pics
The bolt in the motor block.
the rusted bolt in the cast alloy.
Bolt hole blocked by rusted bolt.
bolt holes once I had drilled out the rusted bolt.
I also drilled the other holes out so the corrosion was removed.
Cleaned parts all ready to install with new gaskets and bolts.

Nice work

Well done.

Hi Philco,
Don't worry there is always someone worse off than yourself.............. When I bought my D1 the previous owner a "diesel fitter" had replaced the water pump, only he sheared one of the bolts off, fitted the water pump, somehow got the gaskets to seal and then sold the vehicle on.
Luckily I bought it, six months after purchase the P gasket started leaking, I had a hells own job getting the aluminium casing off the engine block, ended up breaking the casting and having to fit a second hand one from TRS. I got to the point where I was trying to drill the stud out, ended up with the radiator out and nearly the whole engine coming out.
Fixed it properly and it never leaked again, yes I fitted the cad plated bolts and used the copper anti-seize, it will never seize up again.
Mine was what I would regard as a nightmare..........

Nomad9 glad mine was not that bad. Thanks for the encorougement. When you have never fiddled with the motor in the car, it can be a bit daunting. My first car was a mk1 escort, by the time i had owned it 2 years, the motor had been changed 3 times and the clutch done. I knew it inside out. The 300tdi sort of slowed me down being a turbo and a diesel. Now i'm more confident with it. I think i better get the hayes service manual as i feel the LR one is a bit lacking.

Originally Posted by philco

Nomad9 glad mine was not that bad. Thanks for the encorougement. When you have never fiddled with the motor in the car, it can be a bit daunting. My first car was a mk1 escort, by the time i had owned it 2 years, the motor had been changed 3 times and the clutch done. I knew it inside out. The 300tdi sort of slowed me down being a turbo and a diesel. Now i'm more confident with it. I think i better get the hayes service manual as i feel the LR one is a bit lacking.

Luckly I done my P gasket really easy.

You can get 300Tdi workshop manual form below link. I bought the same book for AUD$90 before I found it on internet.

Land Rover Parts - DEFENDER