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Aaron
18th April 2013, 05:05 PM
While installing my Tigerz11 12000 it came to my attention that the brackets to mount the control box on top of the winch weren't included. So I went hunting for a new position to mount the whole control box, but in a Puma engine bay there is no way that will happen.

So the I went hunting for a position for the solenoid. The best place I found was under the drivers seat. This is how it all went.

Inside seat box
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/653.jpg

Isolator and in/out toggle switch. The switch is rated at 3000amp.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/654.jpg

Passenger side battery box
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/655.jpg

To protect the cable/plastic protective case stuff from the heat from the exhaust its been wrapped in Kevlar
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/656.jpg

Im hoping the solenoid prefers the serenity in a nice little box out of the weather!

87County
18th April 2013, 05:13 PM
Thanks for posting this - it looks like you've done a good job.

Often the control box is mounted exterally (sometimes on the winch).

When I see this for a winch which hardly ever gets used, I do wonder if the owner realises that the contacts may get so corroded/dusted that the winch just won't work when required.

isuzutoo-eh
19th April 2013, 09:35 PM
3000 amps? That's extraordinarily big, mains sub-station stuff, do you mean 300 amp?

Yorkshire_Jon
19th April 2013, 09:47 PM
3000 amps? That's extraordinarily big, mains sub-station stuff, do you mean 300 amp?

It may well have a 3000A surge loading for a few ms, but I doubt very much it could sustain that figure any real purpose. Having said that it only needs to e able to sustain possibly 700A for winching, even then that would only be under maximum load. 400A would be much more normal current.

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bemm52
20th April 2013, 08:10 AM
Aaron I am locking at fitting a winch to my puma..........from the photos it appears you have only one battery is this correct, I thoght an axtra battery was required to cope with winch draw. If i can get away with a single battery it would keep costs down

Cheers Paul

Yorkshire_Jon
20th April 2013, 10:43 AM
Aaron I am locking at fitting a winch to my puma..........from the photos it appears you have only one battery is this correct, I thoght an axtra battery was required to cope with winch draw. If i can get away with a single battery it would keep costs down

Cheers Paul

You definitely do NOT need a second battery to run a winch, however, bear in mind that you will need to keep your engine running whilst winching if you only have one.

A second battery simply ensures you can always start the car after you have recovered yourself (or others), it is nothing to do with current draw from the winch / winch operability.

If pennies are tight and you need a winch, just use the one battery. You can always add a second battery and associated other requirements at a later stage.


hth
J

dullbird
20th April 2013, 01:23 PM
Aaron did you leave a plug for the winch remote on the outside too?

we have the winch controls on our puma on a contura switch up near the steering wheel..however if you dont have the ability to plug the remote in as well your going to have issues if your ever out on your own and have to use the winch because you cant sit in the car and wind the winch rope back on, on your own.

This is a mistake we made with our puma although I always go out with Ian so not an issue for us but one I'm not going to make with the disco..I will make sure I have a plug under the bonnet as well as a control switch in the cab :)

Aaron
20th April 2013, 03:01 PM
3000 amps? That's extraordinarily big, mains sub-station stuff, do you mean 300 amp?

Its 3000 initial and I think 750amp continues. I can check the invoice if needed.

Aaron
20th April 2013, 03:04 PM
Aaron did you leave a plug for the winch remote on the outside too?



Yeah that was an oversite to be honest. It will be annoying, but still do able. I will probably get a second plug installed for the situation (Which is code for "will never get around to it!") :)

Bush65
20th April 2013, 05:07 PM
That is one very long path for the current :eek:.

Tombie
20th April 2013, 05:12 PM
That is one very long path for the current :eek:.

Indeed. That winch will likely never perform to its rated spec unfortunately.

Kudos to the OP though. A very neat install.

Aaron
20th April 2013, 09:05 PM
I did consider the extra length required, but I don't think it is THAT much longer to be honest. The cables they used are thicker than the ones provided so hopefully that helps a little.

Im not really after peak performance from the winch to be honest. I plan on using a block for 95 percent of all recoveries.

Id be curious if anyone knows of a way of testing to see how much has be lost by running the cabling the little further.

steveG
20th April 2013, 09:49 PM
I did consider the extra length required, but I don't think it is THAT much longer to be honest. The cables they used are thicker than the ones provided so hopefully that helps a little.

Im not really after peak performance from the winch to be honest. I plan on using a block for 95 percent of all recoveries.

Id be curious if anyone knows of a way of testing to see how much has be lost by running the cabling the little further.

There are plenty of online calculators for voltage drop on 12v cables.
Do the calcs using your existing cable length and size, and compare to the same calculation with shorter length cables.
Cable length is the total length in the circuit, so with the solenoid under the seatbox you've got:
- Battery to solenoid plus,
- Solenoid to motor plus
- F1 to solenoid plus
- F2 to solenoid
For comparison purposes you can ignore the negative path back to the battery as it doesn't change.
Obviously for every metre you move the solenoid away from the winch you add 3 metres to the cable length (might be slightly less than 3x if you move the solenoid closer to the battery).
You'll also need to know how many amps your winch pulls at full load so you can enter it into the calculation.
The figures won't be perfect but will give you a reasonable comparison.

Steve

Felix
20th April 2013, 11:42 PM
Well. R=pl/a where
p= resistivity of material (copper)
l= length
a= CSA of conductor

Work that out and compare it as steveG has said so you can see what difference it really makes.

I'd be wanting maybe 2 Gauge cable for that length of cable run? Neat install though, heaps of effort! :BigThumb: