Taps and Dies for Series 3 restoration

[shaunmax]

Can anyone tell me what tap and die thread sizes (main ones) I will need for a Series three? Any comments on types (carbon steel/tungsten etc etc.) of taps/dies would also be very useful.

We have just got the new Series 3 project into the garage this week and my boys and me have been stripping it down in earnest. The only stuck bolt I have encountered is the offside top hinge, might have to come back to that as its a tricky one being philips head, you cant get any power behind it.:mad:

Shaun (dad to swaggy-with-a-landy)

[gromit]

Mostly UNF and UNC for a Series III.
I do remember a few BSF on the transfer box, maybe it was the transmission brake.
Carbon steel is OK for cleaning up existing threads, HSS better for cutting new threads.


Colin

[UncleHo]

G'day Shaunmax :)

I think that you will find that the front steering assy as well as the gearbox/transferis still BSF/Whitworth,the rest is a combination of UNF and UNC with a little Metric thrown in if it is a late Series 3, if it was an Australian Assembly (Pressed Metal Corp) they used what was in stock :(

When disassembling box/zip bag and label everything, not bagging and marking is what leads to failed restorations.


cheers

[shaunmax]

Mostly UNF and UNC for a Series III.
I do remember a few BSF on the transfer box, maybe it was the transmission brake.
Carbon steel is OK for cleaning up existing threads, HSS better for cutting new threads.


Colin

Cheers Colin. I'll plan to get myself a set in the week. Haven't had to use the grinder to deal with any seized bolts yet - which is good as I haven't yet bought a grinder...
:)

[shaunmax]

G'day Shaunmax :)

I think that you will find that the front steering assy as well as the gearbox/transferis still BSF/Whitworth,the rest is a combination of UNF and UNC with a little Metric thrown in if it is a late Series 3, if it was an Australian Assembly (Pressed Metal Corp) they used what was in stock :(

When disassembling box/zip bag and label everything, not bagging and marking is what leads to failed restorations.


cheers

Cheers Uncle Ho. Have found a couple of odd sizes already - but we have bagged everything so far.

How can you identify if it was Australian Assembly / Pressed Metal Corp?

[Bigbjorn]

BSW and BSF, UNC and UNF, some BSP, maybe NPT somewhere. BA on electrical and instruments.

Chrome/tungsten/carbon steel taps and dies are useful for cleaning threads and cutting new threads by hand on soft materials like mild steel, grey iron, brasses, soft aluminium. For high grade steels and irons, heat treated aluminiums, titanium, machine tapping, and so on, use high speed steel taps and dies.

You will rarely use anything over 1/2" on light automotive work. Sets are false economy for the hobbyist or home mechanic. At least one third will never be used.
Start with an intermediate tap in sizes 1/4" to 1/2" by sixteenths. When buying dies, ensure they are split adjustable. If you can find a supplier who still has 1 1/2" dies in small sizes 1/2" and below, buy them in preference to 1" dies.

BA taps and dies are available from Bruce Gardner B.S.F Bolts, 0408 056 255.

I am out of the business as of end of last April and am currently in the USA so can not help.

[JDNSW]

Cheers Uncle Ho. Have found a couple of odd sizes already - but we have bagged everything so far.

How can you identify if it was Australian Assembly / Pressed Metal Corp?

PMC vehicles would have had a small alloy plate somewhere - but it may have gone missing! If the chassis number is on the LH rear spring hanger there is a good chance it is - home market ones had it on the front dumb iron I think.

Situation is pretty much as Gromit said, but add the fact that most parts are interchangeable with earlier or later models and that it is at least thirty years old.

For Series 3 most of the vehicle will be UNF/UNC, but there will be some parts still BSF/BSW a very few BA, and a few, increasing with later models, metric. But with interchangeable parts there is no way to be sure which particular bits will be what. (except for a few that stayed the same throughout Series production, such as drive flange studs which remained BSF).

John

[123rover50]

Can anyone tell me what tap and die thread sizes (main ones) I will need for a Series three? Any comments on types (carbon steel/tungsten etc etc.) of taps/dies would also be very useful.

We have just got the new Series 3 project into the garage this week and my boys and me have been stripping it down in earnest. The only stuck bolt I have encountered is the offside top hinge, might have to come back to that as its a tricky one being philips head, you cant get any power behind it.:mad:

Shaun (dad to swaggy-with-a-landy)

Get an impact screwdriver. The one you hit with a hammer. It will move the phillips on the hinge and is also invaluable for removing the slotted countersunk screws on the brake drums.

[UncleHo]

YUP !!! I will second that,"Trade Tools Direct" are your friend.



There should be a small metal plate screwed /riveted to the inside of the firewall just above the gear lever it will have the body number stamped/etched into it. something like 109. 126514 or similar that will be the PMC (Pressed Metal Corporation) Leyland Aust. Assembly Plant Enfield Sydney.


cheers

[shaunmax]

Get an impact screwdriver. The one you hit with a hammer. It will move the phillips on the hinge and is also invaluable for removing the slotted countersunk screws on the brake drums.

i knew there was something I could use, been a while since i messed around with old cars, the last was a 67 MGB. the landies not the only thing thats a bit rusty..:eek:

[shaunmax]

YUP !!! I will second that,"Trade Tools Direct" are your friend.



There should be a small metal plate screwed /riveted to the inside of the firewall just above the gear lever it will have the body number stamped/etched into it. something like 109. 126514 or similar that will be the PMC (Pressed Metal Corporation) Leyland Aust. Assembly Plant Enfield Sydney.


cheers

this is what i have...says manufacturer is leyland australia.

[UncleHo]

G'day Shaunmax

Thanks for the pics,so it's an 81 model GS,yes,Leyland Aust. was the way it would have have been marked but it was still built at what was PMC p/ltd, Leyland management re-branded all divisions of the Company to just "Leyland" including their vehicles, the lower No on that plate is the Chassis/Vin No,the upper number is the car/body number,the others are the Contract,Into Service,Warranty expiration,but there is no Census/Type listed as they were just known as GS then.the other types were FFR (fitted for Radio) or the Station Wagon being the most common variants.


It looks like you have a very goods basis for your restoration as it has a good straight body.


cheers

[shaunmax]

G'day Shaunmax


It looks like you have a very goods basis for your restoration as it has a good straight body.


cheers

Thanks Uncle Ho - It does look that way but in fact there is a significant scrape along the rear wing that has pushed out the bottom - creased it is what I was trying to say, so it looks like a k without the l, if you know what I mean. And I also have a buckle in the front wing. I push it in and in half an hour it springs back out again.

Not sure where to start as i know the birmabrite can be brittle. I'd have a go at hammering it out but havent done any of that before so any advice on bodyworking birmabrite will be gladly recieved.

[UncleHo]

G'day Shaunmax

There is a way to shrink the alloy,as I was shown a few years ago to repair a damaged door on a 2a GS, rub the area back, and heat it with an oxy or a good blow torch until it starts to smoke slightly,then cool the area heated with a damp cloth balled up,this will shrink the metal,start around the edges or at one end,and gradually progress along or to the centre of the depression,"Incisor" showed me a few years ago as I had to repair. Rolled 2a soft top GS.


Cheers

[shaunmax]

Not too good at posting but have been busy - mind you having a full time job and two teenagers slowed me down a bit!

Some pics below, Lily has been stripped down to the chassis and everything rust proofed and painted. I have a new tub to convert it into a more family friendly 5 door station wagon (thanks Cookey) and a beautifully rebuilt 2.6litre engine - original (also thanks to Cookey) ready to go back in. Half the panels have been blasted and painted and currently i've just got a few things to finish before getting it back to having the newly rebuilt engine fitted.

And on we go....

Shaun