Introducing DaOot

[Cannon]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/381.jpg

She's a 1969 2.25P SWB with 2 fuel tanks, although the passenger one isn't connected, a Fairey overdrive & bucketloads of cool :cool:

We bought her for our son who will be turning 16 in October & getting his learner's the next day apparently :)

She got her name from my son who as a toddler loved to play in his grandfather's ute but he always said " play in Da Oot?", so DaOot seemed appropriate.

Until then we've got a bit of work to do to get her roadworthy.

Leaking sump gasket but suspect possible rear main seal leaking as well.( is this an engine out thing if it is the rear seal? Can someone reading a manual fix it? )

Front swivel hubs are leaking.

Transfer case rear seal leak. ( Can this be fixed in situ or does the box need to come out? Can someone reading a manual fix it?)

Rear Diff pinion seal

Rear prop shaft uni excessive movement. ( is this a new shaft job or can the unis be replaced?)

Front & Rear spring bushes ( is this easy or do you need some sort of tool to press the bushes in?)

Fuel pump leaks ( replacement or gasket? would a new electric one be a better option?)

A couple of brake issues i.e. leaking wheel cylinder & grease contamination.

Left hand steering Tie rod needs replacing ( easy or is there a special tool required? )

Sorry for hitting up with all of the questions right off the bat?

I've been lurking in here for ages & I think I'm up to about page 25 of this forum but I'm still not sure if we're up to the task of repairing as much as possible ourselves.

My son & I are looking forward to trying though:)

Here's a few more photos. Thanks for reading

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/382.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/383.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/384.jpg

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Nice work - looks great.

but I'm not sure you should make it your 16 year old's car. It would be wasted... ;)

Perhaps you can adopt me instead... :wasntme::angel:

[stevep]

nice looking car - good paint job (better than the blue house behind :D my wife would have me painting the house before I could work on my car)

Just the right car for a 16 year old to go on the beach fishing - that's what I wanted one for but had to wait till I was 24 to get it.
any photos of the engine bay???

regards
Steve

[Landy Smurf]

looks great. most of the parts are quite easy to get and replace, no special tools required.

[The ho har's]

Oh what terrific looking little DaOot:D Love the colour.

Most what you have said is relatively easy with no special tools:)

Ohh car hoists come in very handy;)

Looking forward to the restoration/build/learning experience:)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

That is a GREAT looking vehicle.:)

All the best with the repairs - have a crack at them yourself, none are too hard, but there is a bit of work if you do the rear main seal.

Remember to post heaps of pics.:)

Cheers - Gav.

[Cobber]

The rear main seal is probably the worst of it, but you should be able to do everything ... if in doubt, there is plenty of knowledgable people here who can give you tips along the way :BigThumb:

[Cannon]

Thanks everyone:)

I'm sure there'll be plenty more pics & many more questions.

Speaking of pics, here are some underbonnet ones.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/339.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/340.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/341.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/342.jpg

So I know I've got a stromberg Carb which is not so good, but it does have an alternator which is sort of good:)

BTW the last picture Faulls in Subiaco, is that where it was put together?

[Dinty]

It could be where it was sold originally, or that particular part could have been salvaged from another vehicle, hope that helps, cheers Dennis:angel:

[Cannon]

I got under DaOot to clean up some surface rust & flaky paint on the chassis & noticed a couple of things I'd like to ask about.

front swivel hubs:

right one has a grease nipple & the other has a filler plug.

what's the norm?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1173.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1174.jpg

I also noticed there is reinforcing on the axles front & back.

Is this something that's been added later or did they come from the factory like this?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1175.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1176.jpg

[Johnno1969]

Filler plug was the norm, as the swivels were oil-filled. People do often grease them instead, as they do tend to leak.... that's probably why one has a grease nipple added to it. Interesting that somebody has added it.

The reinforcing on the axle casings is standard.

Cheers,

John

[Landy Smurf]

^^what he said

[Cannon]

We took the roof off today so we can get DaOot under the house to fix her up.

I'll be ordering some parts during the week & hopefully start on the fix up next weekend:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/235.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/236.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/237.jpg

[happydad59]

Hi Daoot, meet your lost sister Fairy, she is a bad girl with her skirts hitched high and her underthings showing

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=60945&stc=1&d=1369551619

and has been known to get her top off and play in the dirt

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=60946&stc=1&d=1369551688

but we have been working hard to get her into line.
I was a complete novice when I started with someone else's half finished project, and generally muddled my way through most things with a good dose of common sense, the Haynes workshop manual, the parts catalogue that you can download from www.landrovers.com.au (http://www.landrovers.com.au) (fantastic for identifying what goes where) and the helpful tips on this forum.
Fairy has had a tough life, a heart transplant means that all her power problems are holden ones; but she has also had many experiences just like DaOot. If you are doing tie rods ends it's not too hard, but I strongly recommend getting the $20 tool from Repco or supercheap that uses a screw mechanism to force the tapered bit of the tie rod end out of the steering linkages - it makes the job so much easier. Suspension bushes are a nightmare, there have been a few links on here about homemade thingys from bolts and nuts to force the bushes out but honestly, I gave up because they weren't too bad. There are two camps on suspension, but I found that pulling the springs apart, cleaning rust out and greasing with copper based anti-binding grease really improved the ride. I did my gearbox rear seal without removing the box, just the drive shafts and handbrake drum. A good tip to get the seal out was to drill a small hole in the face of the seal and use a panelbeaters slide hammer (screwed into the hole) to pull the seal out. I bought a special socket for removing the drive shaft bolts (there is not enough room for a normal socket) from one of the overseas dealers (Paddocks I think) that made all drive shaft work so much easier.
If your youngster will be driving it, consider a PBR brake booster from Hydroboost.com.au - really makes a difference to stopping times. Wheel cylinders and shoes are not too bad to do, I bought cylinders and lines (and tie rod ends) from England, much cheaper for the same parts. Check your brake lines, they can be pretty rusted. 4 wheel drives (landrover.com.au) do replacement lines at a very reasonable price.

Anyway, that's enough from me, enjoy your journey into Series landrovers

Peter

[Cannon]

Thanks very much for the information happydad59.

Nice to meet Fairy too.

It's always good to hear other's experiences.

Especially for noobs like me.

Reading the manual is good but you don't always get the little tips and tricks that can make life a lot easier. :-)

[Cannon]

We made a start on the rear end of DaOot on the weekend.

Dropped the tanks in about 10 minutes which was a nice surprise.

We were even able to leave the fuel line hooked up:)

3 of the 4 spring bolts came undone with no problems while one of them had rusted to the inner tube in the bush which required a visit from Mr Grinder.

I had no chance of getting 2 of the bushes out so I took them to the local guy & he pressed out & in the new bushes....except one:(

It seems that one of the spring eye has been expanded somewhat by the PO on the passenger side ( wondered why the bush fell out) so I need some advice on the best remedy for this.

I dropped into a suspension shop that has facilties to do the repair & the guy mentioned that the springs may be after market.

He said there's a much thicker spring in the pack that shouldn't be there.

Here's a photo of the one on the right.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1175.jpg


If they have to pull the pack apart to repair should I get the other pack pulled down & cleaned as well?

Is there a "standard" type spring that could be inserted into the pack to replace the one with the swollen eye;)

Any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.

[gromit]

My Series III rear springs have different thickness leaves. I think it's to do with the available size of springsteel nowadays.
A spring shop should be able to heat the eye & re-set it to the correct size.

Check post #138 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-14.html



Colin

[Cannon]

Thanks mate.

I do remember reading that thread now that you've mentioned it :-)

I just got an email from the guy I dropped in to see this morning.

Got to say I'm very impressed.

He's rung around to see if anyone had them on the shelf, got prices for second hand and parabolics and then quoted me $100 to have the eye repaired.

I'm pretty happy with that :-)

I guess I'll see how the repaired set come back to decide if I pull apart the other pack to tidy it up.

I'm just a bit concerned I won't get them apart easily, or not be able to get them back together easily.

Do you just bend the bits shaped sort of like this ] out of the way to get the springs out?

[gromit]

I'm just a bit concerned I won't get them apart easily, or not be able to get them back together easily.

Do you just bend the bits shaped sort of like this ] out of the way to get the springs out?


Yes but you really need an oxy set to heat the 'clips' up before you bend them back. Otherwise when you bend them back again later they may break.


Colin

[Cannon]

Hmmmm might give it a miss then.

[stevep]

When I did up my springs, I just heated the clips up with a gas torch - blue one that you can buy at bunnings - but now you can get a hotter one - yellow - was $130 last time I looked. The torch had enough heat to bend my clips & back again without breaking.

regards
Steve

[series3]

Hi Daoot, meet your lost sister Fairy...

Triplets!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1315.jpg

Up the Series! They are great fun to drive and work on. Enjoy it!

Sam

[Ozdunc]

I've got a torch that attaches to a BBQ propane cylinder, would that get hot enough?

And what did you use to get the clamps open?

Cannon: if you don't want to undo the clamps, you can still grease the leafs. Get a G-clamp and clamp the pack by the bolt in the middle. Undo the bolt, then undo the clamp. This will let the smaller leaves drop off, and allow the bigger leaves enough separation that you can grind away any ridges at the ends, and then use some spray grease like Wurth HS2000 in-between the leaves. Clamp it back up and bolt it, clean off the excess grease squeezed out and spray it with Penetrol.
Job's a goodun.:cool:

[Cannon]

We've had a fairly productive week or so.

We've got the rear end all finished so far as pinion seal & suspension goes & pulled the springs off the front to take to my new best friend at the suspension shop.

A picture paints a thousand words.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1020.jpg

Front springs before:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1021.jpg

And after

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1022.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1023.jpg

[Cannon]

The young bloke's been doing a bit while he's on holidays :)

Nothing like a throwing a bit of black paint around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/193.jpg

We've put the front springs back on & replaced the dodgy tie rod joint,

replaced the unis in the rear propshaft & have the part to replace the fuel filler pipe to the driver side tank.

I'm thinking of having next week off to maybe finish her off & get registered:cool:

[Cannon]

Forgot to mention that I orered replacement extractors yesterday morning
from these guys (http://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/product_info.php?products_id=3627&osCsid=673efa9598585456482f9c80594b6aca) that were mentioned in a sticky here.

Imagine my surprise & pleasure when the extractors were at my door at 6pm the same day :eek:

So we've started spraying liberal amounts of WD40 on the bolts in preparation for old extractor removal:)

[The ho har's]

Terrific progress there guys:)

You may be interested in this... Samford Show Society*|* Classic Cars (http://www.samfordshowsociety.com.au/?page_id=1425) ..there is a few of us going with series land rovers and other special vehicles

Mrs hh:angel:

[Cannon]

I'd like to thank happydad59 for the heads up re. the special tool for dealing with propshaft bolts.

Definitely made a huge difference :)

We put the rear propshaft back on today, removed the front one & replaced the uni joints.

We also tried valiantly to put the petrol tank back & install the replacement filler hose:eek:

OMG what an enormous PITA.

We mucked around for ages trying to get the hose onto the tank but were getting nowhere fast so we put the tank back on the ground & tried to put the hose on.

It was SOOOO tight that I've decide to leave it on to stretch for a day or 2.

Even with perfect access it was quite a job to put on.

Any tips to make this task easier will be greatly appreciated. :)

[Ozdunc]

Fit it to the filler end first, along with the breather, twist it into position ready for the tank, spray liberally with silicone spray, then with a block of wood and a jack under the tank, get the hose over the tank nozzle ( for want of a better description), then jack the tank into position.

That how I did it the second time. The first time I just had a lot of plasters and a bucket of swear words to hand.

[Cannon]

We only had a bit of time so we decide to replace the sump gasket.

I had the young bloke removing the bolts & while he was getting the old gasket off :twisted: I cleaned the bolts & noticed that 7 bolts are shorter than the rest:eek:

Does anyone know where the shorter bolts go?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1513.jpg

[series3]

Hey Cannon,

I remember taking off my filler pipe, and dreading having to put it on. I managed to just manhandle mine on enough to sit over (after I figured out the hard way it wasn't on well enough, at the servo) the lip and a decent hose clamp did the rest. Maybe a bit of vaseline or something would help?

Sam

[chazza]

I've got a torch that attaches to a BBQ propane cylinder, would that get hot enough?

And what did you use to get the clamps open?



An LPG torch probably wouldn't get the metal hot enough, fast enough. Oxy-acetylene concentrates the heat and gets the clamp to dull red in under 30 seconds.

To open the clamp, start levering with a screwdriver and open fully with vice-grips,

Cheers Charlie

[Cannon]

Plenty done yesterday.

Got the sump back on with a new gasket.

We decided to use the long bolts on the holes that went through the block & the shorter ones on holes that went into the block.

The front propshaft was reinstalled & we got the driver's side tank in complete with filler hose:)

I tried to remove the bowl on the fuel pump to clean out the rotten filter bits but ended up breaking the retaining screw thingy.

So, I'm waiting on a set of Whitworth spanners & a new fuel pump to be delivered so we can replace the extractors get DaOot on the road to RWC.:D

I like buying tools with the labour cost savings.

Both the young bloke & myself are really enjoying the work & results :)

[Cannon]

Well the spanners & fuel pump arrived last week so it was back to work on DaOot this weekend.

Put the new fuel pump on & tried to prime it but there was no action happening so I gave the engine a little jab with the starter & then I could manually prime the pump.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1481.jpg

I started to pull the old extractors off & it soon became evident that the inlet manifold would have to come off as well.

Made things way easier:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1482.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1483.jpg

New extractors in & it was time to start her up:twisted:

DaOot's Extractors Web - YouTube (http://youtu.be/aER-sG5g82w)

Sorry about the audio but it was pretty loud & my poor old phone found it hard to cope.

I also put the wheels back on so she's back on her own four feet for the time being.

The young bloke was in the city with his mates going to the movies today so I'll have to wait to bleed the brakes.

:)

[TfeD4]

Nice :)

[Cannon]

Little bit of disappointment:(

I thought that all I had left to do was bleed the brakes before going for a RWC but as I tried to undo the bleed screw I discovered that it was very round & very seized.

I even removed the cylinder & tried to undo it on the bench but no go.

I thought I'd better check the others while I was there & it looks like the PO must have used multigrips on the screws as they're all round & stuck.

Ah well I guess we're better off replacing all of the cylinders to be on the safe side.:)

[Cannon]

I ordered a set of front & rear axle brake parts which arrived yesterday.

One set of shoes has a silver peg on it while the other doesn't, as you can see in the photo.

Am I missing a bit or is one set for the front & the other for the back?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/541.jpg

[Ozdunc]

I had shoes come like for other cars - I've just knocked the pegs out of the old shoes and reused them. Depending on fit you may have to flare the back of the peg to make sure it stays in the hole, but most I've changed are a good snug fit. Otherwise just take an old peg down to a decent motor factors and they should be able to find one to match

[Cannon]

I had shoes come like for other cars - I've just knocked the pegs out of the old shoes and reused them. Depending on fit you may have to flare the back of the peg to make sure it stays in the hole, but most I've changed are a good snug fit. Otherwise just take an old peg down to a decent motor factors and they should be able to find one to match


That's a PITA :(

I was hoping to have DaOot mobile this weekend so I hope knocking them out is not too much of a drama.

[Cannon]

About 2 weeks ago we replaced all of the wheel cylinders & shoes which was a pretty fun job.

Next we tried to bleed the brakes:(

I think we spent about 4 hrs trying to get some semblance of pedal but every time it started to respond the pedal would fade again.

Move forward 2 weeks & we started bleeding again.

This time things were looking ok but still the pedal would fade.

So we decided to have a break from brakes & replace the tie rod ends.

We removed the track rod & got one out easily enough but could not get enough purchase on the rod get the other one out....until I invented this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1372.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1373.jpg

The Cannon Evertightening Rod Holding DooDad. :D

Tie rod ends in & greased now back to the brakes :(

I clamped off the rear rubber hose & had an abundance of good pedal feel on the front so I concentrated on the rears:)

We bled a bit more & the pedal seemed to be coming good but still not great so I thought a test drive was in order :twisted::D

Maybe a bit of movement might get the air bubbles mobile.

So just around the front yard we went.

DAOot was out and about for the first time in ages.

Very happy chappies :D

Anyway with the fun over we drove back under the house & as we started removing the rear wheels we noticed some lovely little pools of brake fluid running down the wheels.

Leaking brand new wheel cylinders, WOOHOO....not:(

I decide to put the old one's back on to see if I could get a decent pedal as it was OK before I replaced everything.

Nah, both old cylinders are seized on one side & I still can't get a decent pedal.

So I drove it around the yard again because it's so much fun & makes the frustration worthwhile:D

I'll get some fresh fluid during the week & try again some other time

[Cannon]

Just went & drove around the front yard again....so much fun :)

With a bit of pumping the brakes work quite well. Even got a bit of lockup on the driveway:twisted:

[Cannon]

I replaced the leaking wheel cylinders & started again with bleeding.

Got a much better response from the pedal but still not great.

I can't remeber why but I thought the large amount of free play in the pedal might be contributing to my woes so I set about adjusting that with the bolt on the pedal.

Well the brakes came up so well that they will lock & not move until I allow a little free play back in the pedal & then I'm left with ordinary brakes again.

A quarter turn on the adjustment bolt is all that's needed to either lock or unlock the brakes

Losing my mind a little now:eek:

Help[bawl][bawl]

[Homestar]

When the adjustment bolt is tightened and locks the brakes, which wheel or wheels is/are locked up?

Could you be locking just one wheel, and the others still being too far out of adjustment? Just a thought.

Are all the flexible lines ok? Have you tried crimping the back flex to see if you can isolate the problem? If you do this, you may find the front brakes are fine and the backs are letting you down, or vice versa.

[Cannon]

When the adjustment bolt is tightened and locks the brakes, which wheel or wheels is/are locked up? All of them

Could you be locking just one wheel, and the others still being too far out of adjustment? Just a thought.

Are all the flexible lines ok? Have you tried crimping the back flex to see if you can isolate the problem? Crimped the rear flex & the pedal is fine.

If you do this, you may find the front brakes are fine and the backs are letting you down, or vice versa.

I bought new flexi hoses & replaced them today. We still could not get a good pedal & were consuming brake fluid at an alarming rate.

So I nipped down to the hardware shop & got 4m of plastic hose so I could just put in on the bleed nipple & feed it back to the fluid reservoir & just keep pumping:)

My son now needs bigger shorts to accommodate his Chris Close thighs;)

Am I being pedantic?

It's been a long time since I've had a car without power brakes.

Is this OK?

Brake_Pedal - YouTube

[isuzutoo-eh]

That is a bit much travel, you can see in the vid where the pressure starts, but to get to full pressure its a bit further down-this shows that somewhere something is not properly adjusted, has air in it, or is deforming as pressure builds. Deformation can either be flex hoses or the shoes themselves. Have you had the drums and shoes off and checked to make sure the shoes are the right radius to match the drums? If the shoes are new and drums old and worn they may be out of spec for each other.
If you have replaced the flex hoses front and rear then that shouldn't be a problem area.

My Series has better brakes than my 110, stupid boosted disc/drum combo...Series brakes can and should feel very good.

[chazza]

Have you tried stamping on the pedal as hard as you can when you bleed?

Do you get a firm pedal when you apply the pedal a few times quickly? If so the shoes need adjusting; or as isuzutoo-eh suggested the shoes and drums need matching,

Cheers Charlie

[Cannon]

Yes I do get a firm pedal if I pump quickly.

I adjust the shoes by turning the adjustment bolt until the drum won't move then backing of until it just starts moving.

I can still get a rock hard pedal and all brakes locked by adjusting the pedal screw as well.

I'll pull the drums off and compare the old shoes to the new ones later today.

[Cannon]

Have you tried stamping on the pedal as hard as you can when you bleed?

When I stamp as hard as I can the fluid seems to get very aerated. Instead of large bubbles I get heaps of little ones throughout the fluid

[Cannon]

I got some time to pull the drums off & found shiny bits on the tops of all the shoes like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/753.jpg

So I filed it off & offered it up to the drums & saw that the body of the shoe is contacting the drum much better than previously.

I didn't have time to perform another bleed but the pedal feels much smoother all the way through the travel now.

Still no pedal & I'm a bit perplexed how I'm supposed to get to 60kmh in my front yard to bed the brakes.

I might have to invest in a unregistered vehicle permit for the day.

[justincase42]

Just check that any of the wheel cylinders that haven't been replaced aren't allowing air to enter via the threads on the bleeder nipples when they re being undone for the bleeding process. I've seen this occur numerous times as there was enough wear on the threads that allowed air to be drawn in.

I have also seen people undoing the bleeder nipples to much which also allowed air to enter via the threads. A tip I was given years ago was if using an old wheel cylinder, remove the bleeder nipple and apply a small amount of grease to the thread then put the bleeder nipple back on. The grease will fill the gap and stop air being drawn back in when bleeding. I have never tried this so unsure if it was an old wives tail or not.

[Cannon]

Thanks justincase42,

I've replaced all of the wheel cylinders & tried the grease on the bleed screw trick.

I also replaced the master cylinder incase it was no good....so now I have a new one installed & a known good spare :)

I picked up a syringe today so I'm going to try a reverse bleed on the rears.

If I clamp the rear hose the pedal is spot on.

I did a lot of adjustment yesterday & the car stops really well but the pedal is on the floor at the end.

While pondering my predicament I noticed the left rear wheel had some wet stuff on the inside...yay diff oil :)

So I whipped the hub apart & felt an overwhelming sense of accomplishment in anticipation of actually completing a job :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/524.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/525.jpg

[justincase42]

Give this method a go, as this is the best way to bleed brakes on a mini.
Ensure all drums are adjusted correctly first.

Start at the furthest point from the master cylinder use a bit of clear hose that fits over the bleed nipple and drains into a bottle.

Crack the nipple and pump the brake pedal until the new fluid comes through(color change) or until no more air bubbles.

DO NOT PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR only use 3/4 travel. You can damage the master cylinder if you push to far.

Once all air/old fluid is out, tighten the bleed nipple get someone to put the pedal three times and hold it down, then crack the bleed nipple then tighten again.

Repeat that 3 times but on the third time don't full crack the nipple fully just half crack it then tighten again.

Repeat on the other three corners finishing on the brake that is closest to the master cylinder.

Give it a go and see if you have an luck.

[Cannon]

Wednesday afternoon saw us refit the hub with a new inner seal & bearing....JOB DONE :)

We then dived with great gusto & enthusiasm into reverse pressure bleeding with a syringe.

I decided to clamp the rear rubber line as the pedal was perfect with it clamped & force fluid across the rear metal lines.

For some reason we couldn't get the fluid to flow from cylinder to cylinder so I thought there must be a blockage somewhere.

We cracked the line on the short side at the T piece on top of the diff & using the old rubber hoses as adaptors we pumped fluid each way across the diff.

Just when we thought we had a nice solid flow of fluid the hose on the syringe popped off & the subsequent flow of fluid out of the lines brought tears, screams & some sort of maniacal laughter as we reconnected everything & started again.

Once we'd filled the lines we reconnected them ,unclamped the rear line & had no pedal:censored:.

Bled the rear line again the usual way & got a few blips of air.

Bit of pedal but not great.

Let's go for a drive:twisted:

I went around the block a few times, hitting the brakes emergency stop style a few times each lap.

Still not happy.

We then got out the ramps & put them at the top of the hill & parked with the front way up in the air.

I even had the young bloke underneath tapping on the line while I did some brake pumping.

As it was getting dark & DaOot's got no roof we backed her under the house, put the ramps under the rear wheels as I figured if I could get the remaining bubbles in the rear line I could bleed them tomorrow & went & had a beer or 3:twisted:

Next morning I went downstairs & behaving like some insane man who is expecting a different result from all of the other times I'd stood on the brake I reached in & tentatively pushed the pedal.

It moved about 1cm & stopped.....hard......WHAAATTT!!! :eek:

WE HAD BRAKES :D :D :D

Just need to do some adjustment but at least the brakes are there.

We're so happy that we bought DaOot some new shoes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/272.jpg

[Homestar]

Well done. Persistence pays off. You've had a bit of a battle there, but glad you got it sorted. Yours is a very rare breed now, an early Landy WITH brakes...:D

[Cannon]

Thanks bacicat but unfortunately I was a bit over excited.

It seems the front driver's brake was locked on: (

Might be time for the mobile brake man.

[Homestar]

...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66274&d=1380276509

[Cannon]

Got a few little jobs done yesterday.

Wipers & washers.

Washers and Wipers.mp4 - YouTube

Put the steering wheel on the right way up.

Mucked aound putting the spare on the bonnett.

Put the grill back on

WD40'd the door mechanisms & adjusted latch bits so the doors shut easily & completely.

Washed the dirt & dust off, and took some photos.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/189.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/190.jpg


I guess I'll make some phone calls tomorrow about getting the brakes fixed up.

Does anyone know a good brake guy on Brisbane's northside?

[Homestar]

Looking good!:)

A when the brakes are sorted, it is ready for reg, or still other things to be done?

[Ozdunc]

Looks fantastic mate:BigThumb:

[Cannon]

Looking good!:)

A when the brakes are sorted, it is ready for reg, or still other things to be done?

Depends how picky they want to get.

All that's left from original report is:

Engine & gearbox mounts; can't quite work out if I have to remove the entire mount or just the rubber bit; considering having RWC mechanic fix.

Leaking swivel hub seals: They're not really leaking more weeping in a minor fashion.

Sump gasket leak suspect rear main seal: Replaced the gasket but there is a weep from the rear of the engine but not from the wading hole. I don't want to pull the engine at this stage because I'd hate to have to do it again if I discover it's burning litres of oil & needs a rebuild in the near future.

That's it.

I'm hoping that if the oil's not running out & dripping they should pass it.

His birthday's in 20 days.

Glad we got it in May :eek:

[Cannon]

BTW re my never ending brake issue.

I plan to get some G clamps next week & clamp the wheel cylinders & rubber brake lines & systematically add brake bits back until my pedal turns to crap.

Hopefully this will identify the exact issue.

I'm leaning towards having the shoes radiussed ( I think that's what it's called )

We're not home this weekend & I need to get paid again :)

[Homestar]

Radii sing the shoes was what I had to do to get the new 3" suckers working on my old IIA many moons ago. Being the tight wad that I am, I did it myself, taking precautions against the asbestos that was present in the shoes then. Not sure what the correct procedure is but I used chalk and a rough file...:angel:

I basically ran chalk all over the shoe, then ran it around inside the correct drum and took it out again - where the chalk was gone, I filed a bit away, then did the whole thing again. In 4 or 5 filings I got them to be pretty well right and the brakes were awesome when complete.

[Cannon]

I have been filing the shiny bits off & I guess the shiny bits are becoming bigger.

If that's all radiussing is I might get a coarser file & have a crack.

Although I am pretty time poor this month & would like it finished.

[Homestar]

I think the professionals use a machine of some kind to do the shoes, but my tight arse way worked for me.:). Sounds like you are on the right track.

[UncleHo]

G'day Cannon :)

I would suggest that you measure the drums,they should be 10 inches,BUT if they are 10 1/16+ then you need oversize shoes,or get the drums machined round and get the shoes relined to suit,(the only people that I know on the northside is "Quickstop at Nambour" they have done my 2a LWB and several brake shoes of other vehicles I have worked on.

To bleed the brakes I would suggest that you tighten them and lock all 4 wheels, then bleed them after getting a hard full pedal back off the shoes until you can just hear them touching but not dragging :)

cheers

BTW. that is one VERY nice late 2a :D

[Cannon]

Been a bit busy lately but here's my progress or not.

Last Wednesday I got hold of the clamps, pulled all of the brake gear off, clamped the wheel cylinders & got to bleeding again.

After starting at the farthest & moving to the closest we weren't really getting any where so I started going around again.

I was getting plenty of air out the passenger rear when my pedal pumping comrade tells me there's no pedal at all.:eek:

I wander around to take a look & notice a swimming pool of fluid under the driver's front.

Awesome, the rubber boot has blown off & there's fluid everywhere[bawl]

I decide that wheel cylinders are the bane of my existance & scoot over to my local LR joint & buy another & more freaking fluid.

I whack the replacement on which I'm getting very good at:) & we start again.

What's that???? the pedal's nonexistant again???? the rubber boot has blown off the new WC & the new fluid is all over the floor again???

:censored::censored::censored::censored::censored: :censored:

I rang my very goods friends at my local LR joint & enquired WTH was I doing wrong????

They said to bring the WC back & they'd have a look.

Turns out the WC was scored in the barrell & they said they'd replace it which they did, but before I left they pulled the replacement apart to check if it too was scored.

Nope, but there was corrosion on the pistons fresh out of a sealed plastic bag :eek:

They cleaned it up & greased it all & said off you go you'll be right now.

Nope, started leaking again & that's the last I've seen of DaOot.

Like I said, I've been busy:)

Has anyone else had WC explode when clamped?

What sort of fluid are people using?

I was told DOT4 was OK but I'm starting to wonder.

BTW my friends at the LR joint gave me another bottle of fluid gratis. :)

Thanks UncleHo, I found a place very close to me that does the brake work you've suggested & when I get some time Ill get the gear to them for a look see.

Suffice to say she won't be registered for my son's birthday :(

[garrywlh]

oh, what a nightmare. Goodonya for keeping at it. I would have given up by now and paid someone else to do it. You are more persistent than I would be. more power to ya'. ;)

[Johnno1969]

Interesting. Sorry to hear that you are still battling with this. I've had wheel cylinders leak from time to time in various situations, but with a bleed valve open that's where the pressure should be heading, whatever else one might be doing with brake adjustment or clamping.

Give me a shout if you want to have a yarn.

Cheers,

John

[Cannon]

Give me a shout if you want to have a yarn.

Cheers,

John

are you a mental therapist? ;)

I'm so time poor ATM I don't know when I'll get back to it.

[Johnno1969]

are you a mental therapist? ;)

I'm so time poor ATM I don't know when I'll get back to it.

Yeah, I went through it all myself years ago. Trick is to never, ever give up.

Mind you, it wasn't this bad.....

[chazza]

Awesome, the rubber boot has blown off & there's fluid everywhere[bawl]


... the rubber boot has blown off the new WC & ...

:(

I don't understand this! How can the dust seal on the wheel cylinder "blow off"?

Leaking cylinders will leak fluid through the join of the boot and the cylinder exterior, but I wouldn't expect such a sudden loss of fluid as you have experienced. The drum is on when you bleed them isn't it?

If all is well with the drum, then any leak must be down to poor seals, or a scored bore, as you have already discovered.

My favourite method of bleeding Land Rovers is to depress the pedal very quickly - it has worked for me more than once and is the recommended method in my S2A handbook,

Cheers Charlie

[Cannon]

Well I was ready to come on here Friday night & scream I'VE DONE IT :D

glad I waited :(

So I clamped the hoses & had a super rock hard pedal :)

Unclamped passenger side front & had a spongy pedal.

I started to bleed by pumping the pedal sharply but there was no air coming out.

I left the bleed nipple undone while I attended to some washing & discovered on my return a steady stream of bubbles coming out.

At this point I crossed my fingers & waited until the fluid ran air free, tightened up the bleed screw & tentatively depressed the brake, but I couldn't because it was still rock hard :D

I think my family & neighbourhood thought I'd one Lotto as I was jumping up and down whooping like I was crazy.

After I'd settled down a bit I proceeded to the front driver & did the unclamp thing to find a spongy pedal again.

I gave it a few sharp pumps & saw a few decent sized blips of air come out.

Tightened up the screw & lo and behold ROCK HARD PEDAL YES!!!!!:D

To cut a long story short I had the same success with the rears :D

I was pretty drunk by this stage so I didn't go for a test drive.

Just turned out the lights & wandered upstairs grinning like a cheshire cat.

Then came next morning when I went dowstairs all excited only to find another pool of fluid under the front driver's side again.:eek::(

The supposedly fixed WC had been leaking overnight.

Not a massive leake but enough to make my pedal spongy again.

No sweat I thought. I'll take the crook WC & get it replaced again & bleed it all up again.

I spent 8 hrs at the coal face of brake bleeding & have nothing to show for it except the fond memories of my rock hard pedal.

With the hose clamped the pedal is schweeeet but my previous successes cannot be replicated.

I need to get more fluid.:(

On a positive note the young bloke got his learner's the day after his 16th birthday :)

Too bad his car's not ready but now that the deadline has passed I'm not stressing about having it done in a hurry.

[Ozdunc]

You poor bugga. That must be so frustrating!
At some point it will come good. Keep going!

[ezyrama]

Hi Cannon
I have come in on this late, but have you tried pressure bleeding the brakes. I had a **** of a time with Ralph's brakes ( still ongoing with wheel cylinder leaking now) but I got an old lid off a fluid tin and fitted a 1/4 male flare through it and locked it in place with a flare nut. I then fitted a flare nut to the top and a bit of the 6 mm hose to that with a bit of 10 mm hose to jam over the end of a blower attachment on the air comp. I then used the air compressor at low pressure (book says 14 psi)
and pressure bled each wheel cylinder working from closest to further most cylinder. It seemed to work a treat for me until one hose and then the cylinder let go. Sorry if you have done all this but what about the master cylinder, is it by-passing like mine was at one stage, I couldn't get pedal pressure either until I changed that and then the booster locked up so had to bypass that temporarily a well.
cheers Ian

[Cannon]

Thanks ezyrama.

Pressure bleeding is next on my list, however I'm not sure where to source a suitable cap for the reservoir.

I also don't have a compressor but I guess a tyre at suitable pressure would do the job as well.

Poor old DaOot is camping outside ATM under a tarp:(

I was going to test the brakes around the block when I thought I'd put the lights on:oops2:
Engine promptly turns off & no more power to the dash:censored:

Fortunately I'd stopped at the bottom of my driveway across the opening....NOT

Some form of winch would have come in handy but all I had was the trusty Disco:)

So I dragged DaOot to the side of the yard & I'm waiting for a visit from the auto sparky.

There is a long story involving a new wiper switch install & a short to the firewall a few weeks ago but I'm not going into details here :wasntme:
At least I can look into whipping up some form of pressure bleeder in the mean time.......unless someone can suggest where I could buy one:)

[ezyrama]

Mate, I have one here I am not using at the moment if you have the old 2 in 1 tin type. I can send it up if you like in a courier satchel. (your at Sandgate I noticed, I'm only on the Goldie) I will need it back when I get to re doing the wheel cylinders and booster on Ralph though which will be a couple of weeks away. Just use a low pressure from the compressor though. If you do need it PM me or you can call me on 0448799102.
Cheers Ian

[Cannon]

Thanks to ezyrama I set about pressure bleeding DaOot's brakes yesterday & I'm happy to report nothing's changed :p

I have a beautiful airless stream of fluid out of all WC but the right front still is soft even with the WC G clamped.

I even removed the WC from the backing plate & bled it with the bleed screw at the highest point.

I might try a reverse pressure bleed from there & see what happens.

Also had a visit from the Auto Sparky today & he found a very dodgy connection on the ignition relay which he replaced, so at least the electrics are OK now :)

touch wood

[ezyrama]

Hey mate, have you got one or two wheel cylinders on each wheel? ( Ralph has 2, I think they are LWB 6 Cylinder brakes with a booster)
Cheers Ian

[Cannon]

Only the one. You'd think it would be easy. I was talking to a mate from work who used to do driver training in the army many years ago and he said he'd seen brakes bring grown men to tears. glad it's not just me:)

[ezyrama]

Fair enough, Ralph has LWB 6 Cylinder brakes with 2 wheel cylinders. I remember reading somewhere someone was having problems like yours but it turned out they had all the connections wrong and was trying to bleed from the equalising line at the top and not the from the nipple connection at the bottom. See if you can get in touch with Blackknight (Dave) He is still in the army and works on all their vehicles, he might have a few idea's.
Cheers Ian

[wrinklearthur]

A long time ago in another life, I found that the rubber cups in one wheel cylinder were installed back to front. :wasntme:
There was air trapped in between the back to front cup and the piston. This wheel didn't bleed properly until the parts were reassembled correctly.
.

[Cannon]

Thought of a Christmas present for my sister to get her nephew.

Would one of these


LAND ROVER 3 SERIES 71-85 QUALITY ITALIAN LEATHER STEERING WHEEL COVER (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FOR-LAND-ROVER-3-SERIES-71-85-QUALITY-ITALIAN-LEATHER-STEERING-WHEEL-COVER-/250979661738?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6f8db7aa)



fit one of these?


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1260.jpg


I'm also open to other suggestions for cool bling for DaOot....suggestions of working brakes will be ignored ;)

[Cannon]

So I was driving DaOot around today & was reminded to post here re the Temp Guage.

It does not go passed here at all.

The top hose is hot.

The bottom hose is cooler.

The radiator is hotter at the top than the bottom.

There are no bubbles in the coolant with the radiator cap off.

I've tightened & cleaned all of the connections behind the dash.

Just a dodgy guage or is there something else I can check?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1068.jpg

[Homestar]

Could be a few things.

The 10 volt regulator is shot, but your fuel gauge would be reading higher I would think. I would start by accurately measuring the engine temp - it could be fine, but the sender or gauge could be showing a bit out.

Do you know anyone with a non contact infrared thermometer you old borrow? That would be the easiest and quickest way to check if you have a problem. My guess is that the engine is fine, and your gauge is out.

[normbourne]

So I was driving DaOot around today & was reminded to post here re the Temp Guage.

It does not go passed here at all.

The top hose is hot.

The bottom hose is cooler.

The radiator is hotter at the top than the bottom.

There are no bubbles in the coolant with the radiator cap off.

I've tightened & cleaned all of the connections behind the dash.

Just a dodgy guage or is there something else I can check?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1068.jpg


I think the engine is fine, radiator flow is hot in the top and cold out the bottom..
as regards your gauge, where does it read when the engine is cold at start..?
Does it read low and then steadily increase as temp rises, to the point indicated on your gauge..? If that is the case I would say that it is OK.


I truly empathise in the matter of your brakes, having been through all that some years ago. I eventually trace my problem to a spongy hose on the right front brake. But I was never able to get a hard pedal on the first depression. In the end I installed a stand alone servo, which despite air in the system allowed me to stop on 5 cent piece, with minimal pressure on the brake pedal.

At the minute I,m coming to the end of a massive rebuild which includes an upgrade to a dual brake system, including the Rover servo, as fitted to a series 3.
the dual system means that there are two braking circuits, one to the front and one to the back brakes.


Good luck,

Norm.

[Cannon]

as regards your gauge, where does it read when the engine is cold at start..?
Does it read low and then steadily increase as temp rises, to the point indicated on your gauge..? If that is the case I would say that it is OK.


I truly empathise in the matter of your brakes, having been through all that some years ago. I eventually trace my problem to a spongy hose on the right front brake. But I was never able to get a hard pedal on the first depression. In the end I installed a stand alone servo, which despite air in the system allowed me to stop on 5 cent piece, with minimal pressure on the brake pedal.

At the minute I,m coming to the end of a massive rebuild which includes an upgrade to a dual brake system, including the Rover servo, as fitted to a series 3.
the dual system means that there are two braking circuits, one to the front and one to the back brakes.


Good luck,

Norm.

Thanks Bacicat & Norm :)

The guage starts at the bottom and steadily increases until it reaches the point indicated & stays there.

I'm interested in your stand alone servo Norm.

re DaOot's brakes..........I set up a vacuum bleeding system today & ATM I don't want to say any more incase I jynx myself :wasntme::angel:

[The ho har's]

Thanks Bacicat & Norm :)

The guage starts at the bottom and steadily increases until it reaches the point indicated & stays there.

I'm interested in your stand alone servo Norm.

re DaOot's brakes..........I set up a vacuum bleeding system today & ATM I don't want to say any more incase I jynx myself :wasntme::angel:Good Idea;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[normbourne]

[/B]Good Idea;)

Mrs hh:angel:


Thanks Bacicat & Norm :)

The guage starts at the bottom and steadily increases until it reaches the point indicated & stays there.

I'm interested in your stand alone servo Norm.

re DaOot's brakes..........I set up a vacuum bleeding system today & ATM I don't want to say any more incase I jynx myself :wasntme::angel:

Firstly, it sounds as though all is OK with engine cooling, although its difficult to tell the reading from the photo, but if it's reading a bit high it could mean that that maybe the rad needs a flush, or something...!

As regards your brake system, the gear I'm talking about is termed a " Remote Brake Booster/Servo" and are made by PBR.

My unit has the details:-

PATEN BRAKE REPLACEMENTS, VH40-1, Model 2.

The main problem is finding somewhere to mount it, I ended up making a bracket, mounted off the chassis on the manifold side of the engine bay.

I don't know if that model is still current but they have one listed on EBay, with the designation VH-44 At varying prices, the cheapest being $175 post paid which I would think, do the job.

. But if you email PBR and quote the above details, I feel sure they could offer you the correct alternative.

My rebuild started 20 years ago but due to establishing a business and subsequent ill health, it's been dragged out.

My booster was taken off at that time and has just been sitting in the garage,
Obviously it won't be much good now, but the bracket may suit you, if so let me know..!

I don't like to dwell on it but I can remember the sense of despair at my efforts to establish efficient brakes, my wife ended up with the legs of a champion cyclist, no matter what we did, vacuum etc. was all to no avail.

For me at least, the remote servo was the answer, you take the pipe from the MC in one end and the pipe to the brakes in the other, and a vacuum pipe to the manifold. There is a bleed nipple fitted and that's it, talk about a sense of relief.....!

Anyway Cobber, hope all this helps, talk soon,

Norm.

[Cannon]

Not round? - YouTube

This isn't right is it?

As you can see it's quite free but turning it either way binds on the brakes.

I'm thinking it's not round.

Is it worth trying to fix or should I just buy some new drums for the front?

[wrinklearthur]

As you can see it's quite free but turning it either way binds on the brakes.
I'm thinking it's not round.
Is it worth trying to fix or should I just buy some new drums for the front?

First I would try a good drum off the back on that hub to see if there is a problem of where the drum sits on the hub.
.

[Cannon]

First I would try a good drum off the back on that hub to see if there is a problem of where the drum sits on the hub.
.

Good idea :)

[ezyrama]

With Norm's remote booster idea, Ralph has one which is mounted underneath the drivers side guard to the left (from the front) of the master cylinder. Bit of a pain if you have to get to it, but it fits OK. Should be some photo's on Ralph's blog somewhere.
Regards Ian

[JDNSW]

Thanks Bacicat & Norm :)

The guage starts at the bottom and steadily increases until it reaches the point indicated & stays there.
......


Check how the 10v regulator is working - easiest is to fill the fuel tank and check the fuel gauge reading. If you find this does not indicate full, the regulator can be adjusted by turning this thin shaft that sticks out of it. It has a dab of glue to keep it in place, but this easily breaks. I do not remember which way to turn it! But it will only need a small change, and remember that the gauges react slowly.

If the fuel gauge is accurate, the problem is probably the sender.

John

[normbourne]

Hi cannon,

How's it going....? All seems to be quiet there on the home front as they say..!

I've just come across the following on another forum:-

"I have been using a easy and clean way of bleeding the brakes on my Series III which works really well and does away with a helper having to pump the pedal like mad.
All you need is a short tube about 12" long and a syringe with a capacity of 20 to 30mls. Firstly drain most of the brake fluid from the resevoir. Fill the syringe with brake fluid, open the bleeder nipple, connect the syringe/tube to the nipple and inject its contents into the brake line. Next close of the nipple and hey presto! your brake will be rock hard as all the air has nowhere to go but out through the reservoir. Repeat for each drum as per your workshop manual (remember to reduce the fluid content in the reservoir after each brake is bled).

There is sufficient fluid in the syringe to fill the brake line and partly fill the resevoir. A quick and easy solution to an awkward job."


Obviously I've never tried it but it certainly seems worthy of a try, what a great idea...!!

Anyway, just a thought,

Norm.

[Cannon]

Thanks norm, I've been really busy with work and kids' sport recently so DaOot's been neglected for a few weeks.

The approaching Christmas season doesn't help either.

I do like the syringe idea and have sort of tried it in the past but things didn't go that well.

Never fear. When I get it sorted you'll all be the first to know :)

[Cannon]

Today I've bought brake fluid & a carton of beer.

We've got a free day tomorrow to spend getting the brakes bled once & for all. :)

If not, well there's always the beer :)

[Cannon]

:beer::beer::beer:

So all of the brake components were on the ground.

WC clamped with GClamps.

All new fluid & still 40-50mm pedal travel untill rock hard.

Clamp the rear hose & the pedal is rock hard no travel.

We stomped on the pedal as hard as possible while bleeding the rears & stiil no joy.

Time for drive :)

We put the brakes back together & went for a scoot around the block then put the rear on the ramp & tried somemore bleeding.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1081.jpg

Still too much travel.

We even tried the syringe thing both drawing out & pumping in.

Dunno what do do now.

I'm thinking of replacing the rear hose again incase the clamping has damaged it.

Pulling the rear WCs apart & making sure they're all good.

Or just taking it to a mechanic down the road...........I don't want to admit defeat though.

:beer::beer::beer:

[The ho har's]

With plenty of beers I see:D

We have had no joy with 'herc' either, Bloody brakes:mad: He is getting a run to the brake place this week, defeated :o

Mrs hh:angel:

[Johnno1969]

Or just taking it to a mechanic down the road...........I don't want to admit defeat though.

That's the spirit. Never, ever, ever, ever give up!

[LandyStu]

Something to check would be the top spring under the wheel cylinder. Needs to be on the front or leading brake shoe and the other end on the peg, apparently if it's connected from one shoe to the other shoe it can take two or three pumps of the pedal to get the shoes out to the drum.

[Cannon]

Reply 100 :)

We had a couple of bottles of fluid left after our last attempt & a bit of spare time yesterday afternoon so I thought we'd have another crack.

With every sharp pump a little squirt of air seemed to be coming out of the rears but the pedal never got any better.

As we were about 1/2 way through the last bottle more air than usual was coming out but in our anticipation of success like the dwarves in Lord of the Rings we dug too deep for too long & emptied the reservoir :)

Might be best to start completely from scratch any way as I think we'll put in a remote power brake doodad.

I'll be sending some emails today to get some quotes.

:D

[grey_ghost]

Howdy,

I have a small story - that may or may not help...

I have a 1960 LWB Series 2 - and on this model the rear wheel cylinders are rare. Rare enough that you can't purchase them anymore so I had to get my re-sleeved by a professional brake company....

Had massive troubles bleeding the brakes - the same troubles that you described. Tried everything - including syringe and reverse bleeding.

The main problem was - you would bleed the system, everything seemed fine, come back tomorrow and there was air in the system...

In the end it was discovered that I had 2 separate problems.

* One of the wheel cylinders had a faulty bleed nipple, that was sucking air back into the brake line...

* Both of the rear wheel cylinders (after re-sleeving) had a hairline crack in them. It was only noticeable when there was 1 person pumping the brakes from inside the cabin and the rear wheels & drums were off.. When you pumped the pedal you could barely see fluid seeping out of the crack. Enough that air obviously got back in the system..

Anyway - hopefully you work out your problems. I gave up and handed it over to the local mechanic who found these problems.. He got me down and showed me with the car on the hoist - all made sense to me!

[Cannon]

Thanks GG :)

I have tried grease on the threads of the bleed screws & have even gone so far as to use plumbers thread tape in an effort to exclude the possibility the air is getting back in that way.

I'm really warming to the idea of the booster though. :)

[Cannon]

Ebay Link (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181299413978'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)

So this is the one I think I'll get as the supplier is in Brisbane.

Is this the type I need?

[chazza]

Is this the type I need?

Well, it doesn't say suitable for Land Rover on the ad; so maybe best to ring them and ask.

Let us know what they say,

Cheers Charlie

[Cannon]

I sent this:


Dear brisbanebrakedepot,

I'm interested in buying one of these for my son's 1969 SWB Land Rover which has a single line, single wheel cylinder per wheel drum brakes all round & was wondering if this item would be suitable?

Does it come with fitting instructions as well?
And received this:


Hi. Thanks for your email. Yes this would be perfect. Sorry no it does not come with instructions as it should be fitted by a qualified person. kind regsrds Tracie

- brisbanebrakedepot

So it looks like it's the go.

I wonder what sort of money a qualified person would need to install it?

Would they need to sign off on some sort of modification form?

Could I do it myself? :)

[Johnno1969]

I remember an ex-army Landy mechanic once telling me that they used to elevate the nose of the vehicle (possibly along the lines of the tree/winch episode in The Gods Must Be Crazy) to bleed the brakes.

[Cannon]

I remember an ex-army Landy mechanic once telling me that they used to elevate the nose of the vehicle (possibly along the lines of the tree/winch episode in The Gods Must Be Crazy) to bleed the brakes.
I've heard that one too:)

[Johnno1969]

I've heard that one too:)

I guess it's already come up on this thread. Quite possibly I have even mentioned it myself. It's hard to keep track. ;)

[chazza]

Could I do it myself? :)

Most probably if you know how to make brake pipes :)

Thanks to you I now know that the booster on my S3 is a VH44; mine is installed under the RH front wing.

Send me a PM with your email address and I can send a diagram on how to install one which may help - I received from someone else but I can't vouch for it,

Cheers Charlie

[Cannon]

The booster arrived yesterday, ordered on Sunday.:)

I'll be giving DaOot a bit of a clean up & taking her down the road to have the booster fitted, the engine & gearbox mounts fitted & roadworthied.

I have no idea how to do the booster myself & I figure a little work their way may help with the roadworthy.

THAT'S THE PLAN anyway..........we'll see how we go :)

[Cannon]

Plan thwarted. :(

I took DaOot down the road to have a chat & book a time to have the work done.

The guy said that he'd be happy to do the mounts but he's not interested in doing the booster as it takes too long & he's very busy.

Why does it take so long?

They need to install a splitter & separate line from the booster to the front as he doesn't recommend boosting the rears as well.

He gave me the name of a guy who'd do it but I'd need a RWC & rego to get there :)

He also said that the booster would make the brakes worse if they're not working correctly now.

He said he'd be happy to look at the brakes while it's there but I'd done just about everything he'd do, the only advantage at the shop is 4 heads instead of my befuddled one.

Feeling a bit deflated but even more determined to fix them myself.....how nuts am I???:confused:

Off to get more fluid:imwithstupid:

[harry]

They need to install a splitter & separate line from the booster to the front as he doesn't recommend boosting the rears as well.
WHAT? crap!


He also said that the booster would make the brakes worse if they're not working correctly now
How?





why not boost the rears?
mister land rover did?
how could it make the brakes worse?


get another mechanic.

[Homestar]

why not boost the rears?
mister land rover did?
how could it make the brakes worse?


get another mechanic.

Agreed. Can't see his logic - I'd find someone who wants to do the job, they may have a different view on it all. Sounds like he was fobbing you off.

[The ho har's]

'zara's' brakes have been boosted and work a treat. Anyone else driving her nearly hit the windscreen when braking:D

I know who will do it for you, you are a LONG way away though:(

Mrs hh:angel:

[normbourne]

What a load of horse.......t.

As previously noted, get your self another mechanic.


If not, how about having a go yourself..? *it's not rocket science, I did the job myself years ago and I wouldn't make a mechanics a...........le.

Briefly what needs to be done is to find a suitable location, in my own case I installed it on a bracket, mounted off the chassis on the exhaust side of the engine bay, re: my previous post (that bracket is still available if interested, just give me an address and I'll drop it in the post)

As regards the hydraulics, if memory serves me correctly, the existing output from the MC is to the brake light switch.*

What needs to be done is to connect the booster in series, which means that the outlet pipe from the MC is to be removed, and a new pipe from the MC, routed across the fire wall to the inlet connection of the booster.*

The outlet connection of the booster is then routed back across the fire wall to the connection on the brake light switch where the original MC outlet pipe was connected.*

What then remains is the vacuum connection to the manifold, which may require a bit of ingenuity, depending on your situation.

Your main problem will be the flares on the end of the pipes, the answer here is to run the pipes to determine length, then remove and take them to your brake bloke who should be able to do this for a nominal fee, don't forget the pipe connection nuts.

Then of course bleed the system, and away you go.

Whilst the above information is offered in good faith, I do not accept any responsibility for any consequences arising from applying this information.

I will post photo's of bracket and my old booster, when I can work out how to attach same.

Good luck mate,

Norm.

[Cannon]

Thanks Norm I think I will have a go:)

I'm an expert now having watched some youtube videos ;)

The kit came with copper pipe & I think I read somewhere that copper can't be used anymore.

Does that sound right?

I'll also have to work out which are the in and out connections on the booster.

I'll take a bunch of photos an put up some questions later.

[normbourne]

Hi Cannon,

No that's right, copper pipe is illegal in Australia.

Are you sure it is copper they've supplied...? The steel pipe I've used recently, has the appearance of copper.

The inlet and outlet on the booster should be marked, if not a call to Paten will soon sort that out for you.

I'm surprised no info came with the unit.

Anyway mate, good luck, it really is quite straightforward to do, and just think of the glory.....!!

Norm.

[ezyrama]

It's called bundy tube, it's copper coated steel tube which is used a lot in domestic refrigeration. You should be able to bend it by hand but if it's a bit tough, it's definitely not copper

[Cannon]

I'm gunna do it:)

the pipe is indeed bundy tube:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/46.jpg

I think I'm going to mount the booster here:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/47.jpg

as opposed to here:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/48.jpg

I also conveniently have a nice little hole in the manifold for the vacuum hose.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/45.jpg

The fitting for the manifold is a little to small for the hole so I might have to get someone to drill & tap the existing manifold bolt or something.

I'll also need to acquire a flaring tool or visit the local brake shop......not the guy down the road:eek:

I'm looking forward to the aforementioned glory :D

[The ho har's]

A small point here...

I do remember an AULRO member coming to get the right brake pedal assembly to fit the booster. They are different without the booster. Just a thought;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Cannon]

Thanks for that but the booster I'm using is a remote one which means it is hooked up to the master cylinder not part of it like a series 3 one: )

[wrinklearthur]

There is an adapter for that threaded hole, try a hydraulic and pnuematic fittings place.
Take the bung and the pipe in when you go and they should have the part you need on the shelf.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/45.jpg
.

[Cannon]

There is an adapter for that threaded hole, try a hydraulic and pnuematic fittings place.
Take the bung and the pipe in when you go and they should have the part you need on the shelf.

Thanks so much for this, I'd have never thought of it on my own. :)

Popped into Enzed this morning & the installation has begun :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/33.jpg

[Cannon]

I figured if I got the booster mounted tonight I could get the lines flared up tomorrow....... 2 FLAT BATTERIES IN MY DRILL.

I'll get up early tomorrow :)

[Cannon]

Got up early today with a charged drill battery & mounted the booster.

Because of the way I mounted it I was able to reuse the original line to the brake system so I just needed a line from MC to booster.

I then ran around a bit looking for someone to whip up a line for me but could find no one open on a Saturday who had a flaring tool.

I even rang a brake specialist franchise who said they get a guy in to do their flaring :eek:

Anyway I ended up at my favourite local Landy Specialist who just happened to have one of their mechanics in fixing his own vehicle so he put the line together for me:D

So it's all in a plumbed in but due to sporting commitments I'll have to wait until tomorrow to put some fluid in & see if it all works.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1211.jpg

[Homestar]

What's the third line there that is still capped off?

[Cannon]

What's the third line there that is still capped off?

Bleed nipple

[SIImad]

I got under DaOot to clean up some surface rust & flaky paint on the chassis & noticed a couple of things I'd like to ask about.

front swivel hubs:

right one has a grease nipple & the other has a filler plug.

what's the norm?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1173.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1174.jpg

I also noticed there is reinforcing on the axles front & back.

Is this something that's been added later or did they come from the factory like this?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1175.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1176.jpg

The ex military and other Govt axles do have reinforcements welded on them (yours look like the real McCoy).

The hub housings should have filler plugs, there is a misconception among some "Sunday" drivers that they can do away with the oil in the hubs and use heavy grease. Unfortunately the grease gets displaces from the bearings etc and the moving parts soon wear out. The oil on the other hand being fluid continuously bathes the moving parts and prevents wear.

The rear main oil seal, I seem to remember reading in the LR w/shop manual that it can be replaced without removing the engine, I'll take a look at the book again and get back to you, unless someone else can enlighten us.

The seals for the front and rear output shaft can be replaced by dropping the shafts, unbolting the retainers and replacing the seals.

Nearly anything on a series LR can be done by the owner, it just depends on the level of skill and knowledge that you posess, most comes with experience. A manual is essential.

Hope this helps.

AJ

[JDNSW]

The ex military and other Govt axles do have reinforcements welded on them (yours look like the real McCoy).

.....

AJ

Axle reinforcing as shown became optional about the start of 2a production, and pretty much standard (at least in Australia) by the end of 2a production, more common on 109s as you would expect.

[Cannon]

SUCCESS of sorts :)

DaOot stops beautifully with a long travel of the pedal but a little pump brings the pedal up really hard.

The pump doesn't even need to be as obvious as the video, just a little jigger on the pedal gets the same result.

I'm guessing it's an adjustment thing now but I can't work out how to get it right as the adjuster affects only one shoe & the other shoe would return under spring pressure leaving the pedal travel there to push it out again.

If it was me I'd happily drive it with pedal like this because even though the first stroke is long, she stops extremely well.

Put it this way, I'd be happy to have my son drive her like this, but I'm not sure if she'd pass a RWC.

On a side/head note ;) the goodness gracious headlight switch has decided it doesn't want to put the main lights on anymore.:censored:

The parkers are fine.

Is there a "modern" alternative switch?

Thanks :)

Brake pedal pump - YouTube

[normbourne]

All sounds good, perhaps it's adjustment of the pedal connection to the MC....?
that's required.

I don't remember the pedal travel in my own case, but I do remember the slightest pressure brought the brakes on.

Anyway cobber, your on the right track, absolutely well Done......!!

Norm.

[Cannon]

I'm guessing it's an adjustment thing now but I can't work out how to get it right as the adjuster affects only one shoe & the other shoe would return under spring pressure leaving the pedal travel there to push it out again.

This is not how it works at all:imwithstupid:
The spring pulls the shoe back onto the adjuster & the other shoe appears to just "relax" off the drum.

I do like the long travel though as it's a more gradual application of the brakes.

If you stomp on them emergency stop style without pumping the travel is still long but the brakes work a treat.

The booster is doing it's job.:)

I've just got to sort the headlights now.

I was using high beam to test drive tonight & the right hand one blew so now I've got no low beam & only one high beam :(

I had HB selected with the floor switch when I turned them on with the dash switch & the right one blew.

It appears they may be a halogen replacement but I'll have a closer look tomorrow.

Any suggestions on a replacement switch??

[Cannon]

I don't think the headlights are halogen.

Does anyone know the details of the type of light I need for a halogen upgrade?

I may as well upgrade if I'm replacing.

Here's the existing sealed beam light:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1098.jpg

[JDNSW]

Original equipment on Australian 2/2a did not use sealed beams. You can replace the lights with any standard 7" light. it is a good idea to fit a headlight relay - I mounted mine on the radiator support. behind the grille.

John

[wrinklearthur]

I don't think the headlights are halogen.

Does anyone know the details of the type of light I need for a halogen upgrade?

I may as well upgrade if I'm replacing.

Here's the existing sealed beam light:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1098.jpg

Looking at the 60W / 50W, wattage, I would say that sealed beam is about the correct wattage for a standard Land Rover S2A wiring switch setup, they would perform a lot better showing a stronger illumination, if you fit head light relays to take current direct from the battery and then use the existing wiring to switch the relays.
You'll find that by fitting a relay you will achieve a lot better light using the existing headlights, than if trying higher wattage headlight without a relay and you run the risk of heating / cooking, some part of the circuit due to the increase in current.

I then prefer the 'New Era" brand of relays and then I double the relays up so there is one contact per filament, that is done by fitting two head light relay units ( one unit per sealed beam ).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1099.jpg

The wattage of the headlights can be increased only if the charging circuit is up to it, most of the original generators will not keep the power up to the lights when driving long distances at night, by fitting an alternator, that allows you to up the wattage to say 100W / 90W per sealed beam.

When fitting extra electrical equipment, always install a fuse in the new circuit as close as possible to where power is taken from and calculate the correct amperage size of the fuse required ( don't guess! ).

Another point Wattage is wattage, by changing the lights from standard to a halogen type you are altering the amount of available visible light, standard lights produce a lot more infrared ( heat ) for the same wattage ( power ) rating.
.

[chazza]

Top advice as usual from Arthur and if you put in heavier cable to the lights as well, the brightness will be increased.

Autosparks is a good source for wire of the correct colour,

Cheers Charlie

[Johnno1969]

For what it's worth, I turfed the sealed beams from my Landy eighteen years ago and got units that take H4 halogen bulbs. Been pretty good since.

[Cannon]

For what it's worth, I turfed the sealed beams from my Landy eighteen years ago and got units that take H4 halogen bulbs. Been pretty good since.

Yeah I'm going to go that way.

I think I'll get a Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kit from Traxide as well.

[Cannon]

AAAAARRRGGGHHHHHHHH!!!! now the brake reservoir's got a hole in it[bawl]

It's the jam tin type.

Any recommendations for fix or replace?

I don't think DaOot wants to go outside:(

[wrinklearthur]

I have a reservoir that you can have, if one doesn't come from someone closer to you.

Send me a PM if you need it.
.

[Cannon]

Wow thanks Arthur. :D

PM on the way :D

[Johnno1969]

I have a reservoir that you can have, if one doesn't come from someone closer to you.

Send me a PM if you need it.
.

Same here.

[Cannon]

Wow have I been busy....but not on DaOot however:(

I finally got some time this weekend & set about fitting a Headlight Wiring Upgrade kit, replacement headlights & the jam tin reservoir.

Headlights work a treat & nothing caught fire or blew up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/471.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/472.jpg

I then set about removing the old leaky tin which I thought would not be a problem untill I realised that the nut wasn't turning but the brake line was.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/473.jpg

Ah well I guess I'll get another made up.

Here's the replacement jam tin cleaned up a little with a bit of paint on it. (thanks Johnno1969)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/474.jpg

I should be able to do more as work has settled down & the kids' sporting commitments have decreased considerably.

[Johnno1969]

Good to see the jam tin in use. It looked a little grungy when I sent it to you, but hopefully it cleans up alright.

Great progress! The lights look particularly good.

[garrywlh]

"nothing caught fire or blew up"

Well done. My son has been reduced to judging the success or failure of the many aspects of my LR rejuvenation project on the basis of how many things have caught fire or blown up (or broken, or bent, or snapped, or been lost, or...).

:)

[Johnno1969]

"nothing caught fire or blew up"

Well done. My son has been reduced to judging the success or failure of the many aspects of my LR rejuvenation project on the basis of how many things have caught fire or blown up (or broken, or bent, or snapped, or been lost, or...).

:)

That's linked algorithmically to the Loud Profanities Quotient (LPQ) to enable quick assessment of progress. For example, a high LPQ in the presence of several small explosions, a snapping sound and some iron filings gives the Project Assessment Level (PAL) of Severe Trauma Underpinning Further Faults & Excessive Degradation (STUFFED). If events involve rare parts which are no longer available as new old stock, the corresponding exponential increase in the LPQ gives a PAL of Results in Offending Object Thrown Energetically Downwards (ROOTED). Disasters mid-project are even known to cause the PAL to spike to Furious Upset Causing Keening & Excessive Drinking.

[Phil B]

Hi,

The grease nipple is so that you can inject flowable grease into the swivel. It is a mod some do to prevent leaks on the swivel oil seal. The only way to fix this properly is to rechrome or replace the swivel ball and the seal-expensive and time consuming. If you are going to do this you may as well replace all the seals and bearings in the swivel and hub. The grease is made by LR-It's called "One Shot". You need one sachet per side.
The other swivel obviously doesn't leak as much, thus no grease nipple (yet).
The axle reinforcement is a mod to stop flex and resultant drive shaft failure, fairly common.
The Stromberg is not ideal-hard to tune. I would think about replacing it with a Zenith 361V (original). The air filter is not original either and it looks like it is hitting the underside of the bonnet-will cause rust on the bonnet cross braces. You might consider changing it.
The fan belt is installed inside out. The slots should be on the inside-could be time to change it before it breaks.

Otherwise a great looking vehicle, all the cosmetic resoration has been done.
The fixes you have mentioned are easily done at home with the exception of the rear main-you will need an engine crane and stand to get the engine out and it is a major job.
Leaking sump gasket can be done from underneath-a hoist or pit will make it much easier.

Transfer case rear seal leak. This can be fixed in place. Big job though. Easiest way is seat box out to give access.
Rear Diff pinion seal can be done in place.

Rear prop shaft uni excessive movement. Replace the UJ, check for play on the slip joint. If there is play there you will have to replace the shaft.
Front & Rear spring bushes. There is no easy way. A press would make it easier.
Fuel pump leaks. Replace it BEFEORE YOU DRIVE IT AGAIN. You can get a kit but a replacement is relatively cheap and then you have a spare. When you connect up the other tank you should go to 12volt to overcome priming issues when changing from one tank to the other.
I have twin tanks, 12v pumps, non return valves and filters switched to change tanks.

Please show us your progress ! Your photos are great.:D

Regards,

Phil.

[garrywlh]

That's linked algorithmically to the Loud Profanities Quotient (LPQ) to enable quick assessment of progress. For example, a high LPQ in the presence of several small explosions, a snapping sound and some iron filings gives the Project Assessment Level (PAL) of Severe Trauma Underpinning Further Faults & Excessive Degradation (STUFFED). If events involve rare parts which are no longer available as new old stock, the corresponding exponential increase in the LPQ gives a PAL of Results in Offending Object Thrown Energetically Downwards (ROOTED). Disasters mid-project are even known to cause the PAL to spike to Furious Upset Causing Keening & Excessive Drinking.

:Rolling::clap2::TakeABow:

[Ozdunc]

I'm with Garry, that's just gold Johnno.

Chapeau

[Cannon]

Replacement line from reservoir to master cylinder MKII installed.

The first one leaked.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/229.jpg

We're so close to RWC I can taste it & I just found out my local LR shop does RWCs :)

Plan ZE1: Fill new reservoir with fluid & confirm no leaks.

Bleed what should be minimal air in the system from booster bleed nipple.

Confirm brakes work like bought ones.

Drive to said LR Specialists & have engine & gearbox mounts installed.

Get RWC.

Register DaOot & bathe in glory.



:)

[garrywlh]

Break a Leg!

[thumbsupbig]

[Johnno1969]

Plan ZE1: Fill new reservoir with fluid & confirm no leaks.

Bleed what should be minimal air in the system from booster bleed nipple.

Confirm brakes work like bought ones.

Drive to said LR Specialists & have engine & gearbox mounts installed.

Get RWC.

Register DaOot & bathe in glory.



:)

How could a plan like that possibly fail???

[Cannon]

Started 3 weeks leave today so I decided to hook up the second tank.

I started by cutting the old filler pipe & using a piece of donor exhaust pipe and I shaped it to fit the left hand filler.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1268.jpg

As you can see it's pretty stuffed so I'll get a new one ASAP.

Next I bought a 3 way fuel tap from the local boat shop & used a 3 way switch I had lying around for the fuel guage.

This way when you switch tanks you can switch the guage as well. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1269.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1270.jpg

You may have noticed a spare hole in the seat box.

I'll keep that for later but in the meantime I'll probably whack a grommet in it ;)

[Cannon]

BTW does anyone know the capacity of these tanks?

This is the only photo I've got that sort of shows the tank.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1263.jpg

[Johnno1969]

From the photo, that looks like the 16 gallon job.

[JDNSW]

From the photo, that looks like the 16 gallon job.

Yes, the extension under the floor indicates this.

John

[Phil B]

Hi,

Looks good.
Are you using a single 12v fuel pump or one for each tank?

Phil

[Cannon]

Hi,

Looks good.
Are you using a single 12v fuel pump or one for each tank?

Phil

I'm just using the standard mechanical pump.

[JDNSW]

I'm just using the standard mechanical pump.

Should work perfectly well - after all, the army used exactly this system for over twenty years in their Series 2/2a.

Only thing I would have done differently is the positioning of the gauge changeover switch - this is very likely to be broken by the driver's boots, and perhaps the tap. The army ones had the changeover tap on the other side of the handbrake - I have never had any problems with this. But my 110 has the changeover tap in your position, and I had to build a shield round it, as the handle kept getting hooked in the loop on the back of my boot or the cuff of my trousers.

The army Landrovers had the fuel gauge switch on the dash, where a glance can tell which tank it is on and the switch is unlikely to be accidentally moved. Since I removed the LH auxiliary panel on mine to make more glovebox room, the switch is on a small bracket screwed to the top of the bulkhead immediately above the fuel gauge.

John

[Cannon]

Hi Everyone,

Today I replaced one of these:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/196.jpg

With one of these:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/197.jpg

DaOot starts and runs but she is soooo rich that black smoke is pouring out.

She was tuned at the RWC shop the other day with new plugs & points installed but the old carby was quite shagged & a new one was recommended.

I've screwed the mixture screw all of the way in but the smoke is still evident.

There's also a tingling type noise which I assume is pinging as I've never heard it before.

Will the timing need to be adjusted again?

Could poor timing cause all of the rich smoke?

Could the new carby have a decent vacuum as opposed to the old leaky job?

(As an aside DaOot passed RWC with flying colours but registration is still eluding me.

A full explanation will follow once the ever elusive number plates are installed.)

:)

[Homestar]

Are the jets in the new carby suited to an engine that size? Did it come with other jets? If it did, I'd be screwing in something smaller and seeing how you go.

Was rebuilding the old one not an option? Those early strommies are very easy to work on and a great place to start your carbie rebuilding career. :)

[chazza]

Hi Everyone,


DaOot starts and runs but she is soooo rich that black smoke is pouring out.


There's also a tingling type noise which I assume is pinging as I've never heard it before.


:)

Pinking sounds like knocking - your tinging noise must be something else.

Black smoke means unburnt fuel, which is probably caused by over-fueling. If this is the Indian made Zenith, there have been problems with jets I believe, with other owners,

Cheers Charlie

[Cannon]

Are the jets in the new carby suited to an engine that size?

It's supposed to be

Did it come with other jets?

No. I've emailed the supplier to see what they've got to say.

Was rebuilding the old one not an option? Those early strommies are very easy to work on and a great place to start your carbie rebuilding career. :)

Maybe, but the boy child wants to go 4wding & I've read that the Strombergs are no good on steep stuff so a replacement carb was always on the cards.



BTW. Where would one buy replacement jets etc?

[Cannon]

If this is the Indian made Zenith, there have been problems with jets I believe, with other owners,

Cheers Charlie

This one is the Allmakes brand & is made in China according to the packaging.

I've looked for threads re Zenith & jet sizes but can't find any info yet.

[Cannon]

FIXED IT :)

The little black pin on the choke mechanism was not on the little tab it is now & the choke was not turning off correctly.

Drives smooth as now with no hesitation on acceleration making doublng the clutch a pleasure.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/182.jpg

[Homestar]

Great news. :)

[67hardtop]

My old girl has still got a strommie on it. gotta get rid of the adjustable main jet and put standard jet back in, also make sure u use a 1 3/32 carby of a 161 red or the venturi is too big causing lots of fuel to b used and rich running. I found a bog standard 161 carby perfect and now here in SA, with the new historic rego rules it can b on historic rego now as long as the standard land rover air cleaner is used. Hooray:D. The LRREGSA were a bit anal about it b4:mad:

Cheers Rod

[Cannon]

It is done :)


Several weeks ago I took DaOot for RWC which she passed without issue.

When I went to TMR they took issue with the fact that the actual chassis number did not match the chassis number on the plate screwed to the dash.

"That's not actually a compliance plate. They didn't have them in '69" I said

Much umming & ahhing & phone calls ensued for me to be told I need & engineering certificate for the body swap & I have to go to the Police to get a surrogate chassis number.:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::ee k::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

To say I was gutted was an understatement.

I went back to my very most excellent local Land Rover shop, told them what happened & asked if they knew an engineer.

The guys there said what I was told didn't sound right & to leave DaOot with them while they found out what needed to happen.

I got a call later that day saying they have an engineer but I'd need the surrogate number so they could put it on the car while they were there.

To say we were busy around that time was an understatement with my daughter playing 2 sports for Queensland over the Easter holidays in Toowoomba & then Wollongong, DaOot went on the back burner.

When we got back I went and got DaOot from her holding cell & went to see the local constabulary.

They couldn't have been more helpfull & the surrogate number was on the way.

That was Wednesday.

Friday the next week I thought this is taking way too long so I rang the station to be told the officer I was dealing with was on night duty & he'd give me a ring at 6:00 AM on Saturday morning.

I was asleep but he left a message to say he had the paperwork & I could drop in at 10PM Saturday night to pick it up.....so I did:)

After reading the surrogate number paperwork I was thinking that I wouldn't need an engineer as the new number tied the old numbers together.

To satisfy the niggling thoughts in my brain I rang TMR myself & told them my sad tale.

Turns out engineering is only required if there's a change of body "type". WOOHOO:)

So Tuesday morning I dropped DaOot back to the local shop to be stamped with the new numbers.

The local Land Rover shop is very busy but I said as long as I had it before Monday and the LROCB meeting I'd be happy.

I got a call this morning around 10 this morning that the stamping & RWC was done.

I bolted out the door at work & DaOot is now registered :D

Interestingly when I went to TMR I got a different guy who promptly asked why I had to go to so much trouble? There's no compliance plate.

I was half expecting that so I wasn't too surprised.

But at least now all of the numbers match up & we can enjoy driving DaOot around legally :)

[Phil B]

That's very similar to my experiences with incorrect info on plates
Live and learn I suppose
Great to be on the road though hey!
Phil B

[wrinklearthur]

It is done ----- DaOot is now registered

Phew!!! :twobeers:
.

[Homestar]

:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:

[Cobber]

Jolly good, well done :BigThumb: :BigThumb:

[Cannon]

Last day with the roof off until summer:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/922.jpg

Ready to go to LROCB Meeting tomorrow night.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/923.jpg

She's certainly way noisier with the roof on, I'll have to investigate some sound retardation material.

Boy child has been doing some driving practice in DaOot & really enjoys it.

He's getting the hang of the change down to second & making great progress :)

I'm glad he likes it.:cool:

[wrinklearthur]

DaOots is really looking the part now, good job.

.

[450Dan]

That, Sir is a very nice looking motor. Well done!!

[ezyrama]

Congrats mate

Its a long road but its worth it. DaOot looks terrific. I like the disco rims, they set it off by filling the guards nicely.
Cheers Ian

[Johnno1969]

Yeah, she looks brilliant. Great work.

[Cannon]

Well I've successfully turned DaOot into a luxurious Range Rover.

Leather steering wheel oooohh :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/654.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/655.jpg

[Cannon]

Does anyone know where I could get a shroud to suit this radiator?

I don't think the little 4 blade fan is performing it's best without the shroud.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/496.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/497.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/498.jpg

[JDNSW]

Just about anyone who wrecks Series Landrovers. It looks like a Series 3 radiatior, but I think the shrouds are interchangeable.

John

[Cannon]

Well DaOot's been trundling along very well since registration & we've been enjoying driving her.

The boy child can pretty much drive without crunching any gears & he's showing a great deal of respect for her age when driving.

We've not made it offroad yet as our best laid plans have been thwarted by circumstance (sport :( ) every time.

We had planned on joining the LROCB on a nice Condamine Gorge drive this weekend but the training session we were going to miss has now been turned into the start of a full on off season tournament so that idea's been scrapped.

It did however make me launch into action to extend the diff breathers in anticipation of 14 crossings of the Condamine river.

A quick trip to the local hydraulic hose mob saw me equipped with all the bits required.

I'll be making a bracket to hold the breathers at some stage.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/26.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/27.jpg

[Ozdunc]

What fittings did you use?

I need to extend the breathers on Bill and been putting it off as I'm not sure what thread to ask for?
Did you you use 1/4" fuel pipe?

[gromit]

What fittings did you use?

I need to extend the breathers on Bill and been putting it off as I'm not sure what thread to ask for?
Did you you use 1/4" fuel pipe?

1/8" BSP from memory.
A pneumatic supplier will also be able to provide the tube & fittings.
BSP fittings are typically to metric hose (nylon), imperial hose fittings typically NPT threads.

I put together a kit price some years back but now work for a different company. I'll have to look at prices and see what I can do.....


Colin

[Themadmob]

Hi DaOot .. can you please tell me what tires you bought and from where ?... great work by the way

[Cannon]

What fittings did you use?

I need to extend the breathers on Bill and been putting it off as I'm not sure what thread to ask for?
Did you you use 1/4" fuel pipe?

I just took the old breather to the shop & the guy matched it all up.

This is what I bought:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1473.jpg

[Cannon]

Hi DaOot .. can you please tell me what tires you bought and from where ?... great work by the way

They are 235/85R16 Mudhogs.

I bought them from a mob at Virginia in Brisbane.

I found their ad on EBay & gave them a call.

Thanks

[Themadmob]

Thanks, do you have power steering ? I was concerned about a wider tyre with no power steering ?

[Cannon]

No Power steering.

It's surprising just how light the steering is as long as your moving, even a little bit.

The guy who did the road worthy said he was impressed with the steering & that it was a pleasure to drive.

We may have jagged a good one.

I've never driven another SWB so I can't really compare.

[Seriestwo]

When I picked up my new project last month, the previous owner sent away to Scott's old Auto rubber shop and had a new plate stamped with the chassis number. Don't know the price.

Classic Repro- Land Rover (http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/Classic%20Repro-%20Land%20Rover.htm)

[Ozdunc]

1/8" BSP from memory.
A pneumatic supplier will also be able to provide the tube & fittings.
BSP fittings are typically to metric hose (nylon), imperial hose fittings typically NPT threads.

I put together a kit price some years back but now work for a different company. I'll have to look at prices and see what I can do.....


Colin

Could you do a kit with gearbox and transfer breathers as well??

[Themadmob]

Did you find out what brake pipes are legal in Australia

[Seriestwo]

Copper pipe is illegal, there is a copper nickel alloy that is legal, but it has to have the ADR code marked on it. It is quite expensive though.

[Themadmob]

Thanks .. any idea where to buy it ..

[Seriestwo]

I think most brake shops can get it in, but I talked to a mate and he said he got his last lot from here;

Partswise® Brake Tubing and Hardware (http://www.nbsbrakesupplies.com.au/products/partswise-brake-tubing-and-hardware.html)

[gromit]

Could you do a kit with gearbox and transfer breathers as well??

Yes, as long as you tell me what thread is needed at the gearbox & transfer box ends.
I think you may have to drill & tap a suitable hole.

Colin

[JDNSW]

Yes, as long as you tell me what thread is needed at the gearbox & transfer box ends.
I think you may have to drill & tap a suitable hole.

Colin

From memory that is the case!

John

[Cannon]

Well after all of the chatter NOT about DaOot I thought I'd get my thread back on track & show you how well DaOot went over the Gateway this morning.

We hit the bottom at 50mph in overdrive.

This afternoon we came back over & hit the bottom at 55mph in overdrive and pretty much stayed there.

She's going great :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Adxj721LjI8

[Johnno1969]

Man, that looks like you were having so much more fun than all those other people who were just driving over the Gateway and not actually on an expedition!!! I pity the fools.

[ezyrama]

Well after all of the chatter NOT about DaOot I thought I'd get my thread back on track & show you how well DaOot went over the Gateway this morning.

We hit the bottom at 50mph in overdrive.

This afternoon we came back over & hit the bottom at 55mph in overdrive and pretty much stayed there.

She's going great :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Adxj721LjI8

Cool, I'll have to get Ralph finished and give you a drag over the bridge :D
Cant believe how quiet DaOot sounded.

[Cannon]

Cant believe how quiet DaOot sounded.

She's getting quieter too, or maybe we're getting deafer;)

The overdrive used to scream when used at around 50mph & increased in volume as speed increased. ( 65mph is about as fast as we've gone so far ), however one day it just went quiet & has been quiet ever since.:eek:

Probably shouldn't have mentioned that :angel:

[Johnno1969]

The overdrive used to scream when used at around 50mph & increased in volume as speed increased. ( 65mph is about as fast as we've gone so far ), however one day it just went quiet & has been quiet ever since.:eek:



Are you absolutely sure that it's still there.........??

[Cannon]

Are you absolutely sure that it's still there.........??

LOL, yes & working.

[The ho har's]

Cool, I'll have to get Ralph finished and give you a drag over the bridge :D
Cant believe how quiet DaOot sounded.

OK Ezy, a challenge. We get all the series we can muster drive over the bridge and have a BBQ:D Maybe some will have to drive south first:angel: or north as the case maybe:)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Cannon]

We've been after wing/door/side mirror solution for a while & have not yet decided exactly which way to go.

Boy child, however is thinking about doing his driving test in DaOot so I thought he should at least have something there as a mirror.

I picked up a universal convex mirror from Repco & a bit of steel out the bins at work to see if I could set something up temporarily.

So I went from this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/784.jpg

to this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/785.jpg

to this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/786.jpg

Works a treat :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/787.jpg

I had to use the extender bit because the mirror was obscured by the rego sticker but that won't matter in a few weeks when we don't need the stickers anymore.

I'm pretty happy with my efforts with only an angle grinder & a drill :D

[SII Josh]

nice work

[The ho har's]

Sooo there is a P plate sign in pic. Has boy child got his licence???

On a second it's L one side and P the other?


Mrs hh:angel:

[Cannon]

Success & congratulations to the boy child.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/2.jpg

Since Wednesday this week he's been scooting around in DaOot having a ball.

First go success as well :)

Must have been his supervisor;)

We feel like we haven't seen him since. I had to stop him driving off to get this photo.

Thanks everyone who've followed this thread & offered advice & bit & pieces.

He's got himself an awesome little car & it makes me grin like a cheshire cat to see him loving it as well :D

[Ozdunc]

Safe in the knowledge he's unlikely to get a speeding fine :D

[LandyStu]

Safe in the knowledge he's unlikely to get a speeding fine :D

:p been fined for doing 80 in a 60 zone, 2.25 powered 2a...but I've learnt my lesson

[Cannon]

It had to happen I guess.

Got a call from the boy child yeterday afternoon that he was stranded as he couldn't select any gears.

I suggested moving the car back & forward (he had some strong young mates with him) & see how he got on.

No go.

Fortunately I work close by so I went to check it out.

Sure enough it was very difficult to select a gear & reverse had no 'gate' type resistance.

Something wrong with the selectors was my diagnosis :) brilliant I know.

Anyhow after a bit of jiggling around we realised that all of the gears were selectable so I got him to drive home while I followed & said to start taking the floor out.

I headed back to work but I soon determined that he was going to need some help & that it was going to be way more fun with him than at work so I turned around & went home.

To cut a long story short we got the floor out & discovered this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/895.jpg

Broken spring.

So while the boy child was removing the gear stick I went over to our local LR specialist to get some new springs.

I'm always amazed how much they know as when I'd described what I needed they rattled off the part number from memory & supplied them from out the back in no time at all.

On my return I found that the gear stick had been removed & it was a simple job to fit the new springs & put everything back together.

The boy child was really happy that he'd fixed it as he'd done most of the work & I'd only picked up the parts & held a spanner or two.

Way better than work :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/896.jpg 0:20

[Cannon]

I forgot to mention we had some extra help as well :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/893.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/894.jpg

[67hardtop]

C'mon, we know the real truth....The helper was the young 'un....:D:D:D

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[Cannon]

We spent yesterday replacing the clutch master & slave cylinders.

They were both leaking pretty badly.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/329.jpg

I guess the extra work they've been getting lately after sitting for so long finally wore them out.

We didn't need to remove the floor to get the slave out as it is the "new" style which was good.

So it's all back in now & working well, although the pedal feels a bit heavier.

[Cannon]

DaOot has been getting out and about with the boy child a lot.

There's been trips to the beach, camping, taking the dog for swims & generally getting out and about.

It's good to see that the boy child enjoys driving so much as he always takes the long way home.

Here's a picture he took on the way back from the Sunshine Coast.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/241.jpg

[Dinty]

That's a good looking rig, cheers Dennis

[Themadmob]

Great shot, Great restore

[ezyrama]

DaOot is looking great. So much fun to drive aren't they.
Cheers Ian

[Cap]

Great thread. I am looking for a project in near future and been torn between a 2 door RRC or a Series. Just keep coming back to the Series, dont know why but always loved them even tho the RRC is also fine machine. Pitty i cant have both :(

[debruiser]

Great pic! DaOot is looking great!


DaOot has been getting out and about with the boy child a lot.

There's been trips to the beach, camping, taking the dog for swims & generally getting out and about.

It's good to see that the boy child enjoys driving so much as he always takes the long way home.

Here's a picture he took on the way back from the Sunshine Coast.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/241.jpg

[Cannon]

We've been a bit busy on DaOot in the last few days.

The charge light was never really going out & some times staying on completely, but a new alternator fixed that.

While we were there we also replaced the fan belt & kept the old as a spare.

The brake light switch also decided to stop working but I was able to pick one up at Supercheap yesterday to get DaOot back on the road.

I was feeling a little bit of urgency to get it all sorted because the boy child is off to Kapooka in 3 weeks so I wanted him to spend as much time driving around as possible because he loves it so much. :)

We put the roof back on yesterday as well so he can still get out if it rains.

I think he might be a bit soft ;)

[Cobber]

A nice sense of achievement no doubt :)

[Cannon]

10 days until he leaves and we finally get DaOot out for some 4wdriving (other than the dirt road stuff he's been doing by himself)

I took a couple of days off work so we could go out to Janowen Hills 4wd park.

Needless to say I'm very impressed with DaOot & even more so with the boy child's driving.

We took a wrong turn ( I was leading ) and found ourselves on a very steep climb with an even steeper descent.

We took a few goes getting DaOot up but due to my fear of an inexperienced driver & car coming to grief & what his mother would say if something bad happened I pulled him up the last 5m or so.

We then studied the down side which had an enormous hole right beside a big tree with cut off roots sticking out of the side.

We filled the hole with some logs & rocks & gingerly descended.

I was packing it & so was TBC but he did it perfectly. Very proud Dad :)

Didn't get any pictures of that but we did get plenty of others.

It was fantastic to see DaOot out and about doing what she was made for & doing it so well.

Enjoy :)

Link to Pics and Vids (https://plus.google.com/photos/106251610308653759280/albums/6112661344749040449?authkey=CNHeif7l6PaByAE)

[garrywlh]

Thanks for those great pics and videos. I'll be heading there as soon as I can after Lettie is registered! :p

I probably should read back through your thread, as you've probably mentioned this already, but I notice the big side windows in your hard top. Are they custom made or did the roof come like that?

Thanks again.

cheerio,

Garry

[Cannon]

Thanks for those great pics and videos. I'll be heading there as soon as I can after Lettie is registered! :p

I probably should read back through your thread, as you've probably mentioned this already, but I notice the big side windows in your hard top. Are they custom made or did the roof come like that?

Thanks again.

cheerio,

Garry

Thanks:)

Yes the roof came with those windows.

I didn't notice they were anything special.

[garrywlh]

I like the greater visibility. These are on mine.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90332&stc=1&d=1423279695

I'm getting set to refurbish the roof and I'm thinking of having larger openings cut into the sides for either sliding windows like yours or hinged, fold-ups.

[The ho har's]

If you had gone the weekend before you have had us lot GCLRO to play with :) Good to see daOot out and about :D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Cannon]

Hi Everyone,

Been a while since I've posted here.

The boy child has finished at Kapooka & is now at Puckapunyal for 6-8 months & he wants DaOot to come and stay with him.

Good for him, sad for me. :(

We intend to drive her from Brisbane over 3 days or so at the end of next week so I'm very interested in a comfy seat for the trip.

I picked up some buckets from Incisor a while ago which are pretty comfortable but I may have an opportunity to get some Defender ones.

We'll take the originals with us incase he wants to get them refurbished.

What I want to confirm is that Defender Seats will fit in DaOot.

Here's a pic of the ones I got from Incisor:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/140.jpg

[debruiser]

defender seats are a straight bolt in for a series 3. I would assume that a they would fit yours as well.

[The ho har's]

Well how did the drive go? Need another series restoration then?

Mrs hh:angel:

[Cannon]

Well how did the drive go? Need another series restoration then?

Mrs hh:angel:

The drive will be next weekend. Servicing and checking stuff this weekend.

I do have a daughter who'll need a car in 2or 3 years so I'm always on the lookout :angel:

[Cannon]

Well it's been a very busy week with TBC home & visiting rellies and working on DaOot etc.

We changed all of the fluids yesterday which was going swimmingly until TBC mentions from under the car that the drain plug on the overdrive won't tighten up.

Uhoh:confused:

Seems he's considerably stronger now....or so he reckons ;) & he's stripped the thread on the body of the overdrive.

It was holding oil so today I rang my great friends over the bridge & asked if there was anything we could do.

I was told to bring it over and leave it there & hopefully they could get to it today.

We're supposed to be leaving for Puckapunyal tomorrow:eek:

Anyway we get a call at 16:45 to say she's all fixed now sporting a very stylish Freelander turbo diesel sump plug in the overdrive.

Doesn't go any faster though;)

Apparently the thread was totally screwed.....see what I did there? :)


This however highlighted to TBC a situation I've been concerned about for a while "What if something breaks & we're stuck somewhere waiting for parts or something?"

The Army are sticklers for the people being where they're supposed to be at a certain time.

So we've decided to postpone DaOot's departure for a couple of weeks when I can take my time driving her down without a deadline.

(I don't care if I'm stuck somewhere for a few days ;) )

I'm looking forward to the drive & seeing TBC again so soon :D

[Cannon]

Tomorrow's the big day :D

Heading off early hoping to overnight in Narrabri, then Narrandera the next & Seymour/Puckapunyal by early afternoon Saturday.

I'm really looking forward to the drive.

A few extra days would have been nice but I don't think I've set myself an unrealistic schedule.

I've made a few changes to increase comfort on the way.

:cool:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/160.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/161.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/162.jpg

[crackers]

Cor, looxury :burnrubber:

[crackers]

What are the seat belts mounted to? Particularly the shoulder straps?

Regarding your brake dramas. Long after you got them working, a brake line failed which raises the question, 'was that the source of the air all along?' I ask this after reading/seeing/hearing somewhere that replacing all the metal lines during a restoration of a vehicle this old is a good move because they can become pitted and you really don't know how thin a sidewall is. That would fit in with your failure.

[Homestar]

Have a great trip. Safe travels. :)

keep us up to date on the drive.

[ezyrama]

Tomorrow's the big day :D

Heading off early hoping to overnight in Narrabri, then Narrandera the next & Seymour/Puckapunyal by early afternoon Saturday.

I'm really looking forward to the drive.

A few extra days would have been nice but I don't think I've set myself an unrealistic schedule.

I've made a few changes to increase comfort on the way.

:cool:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/160.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/161.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/162.jpg
I better not show SWMBO the interior shots or Ralph might end up with an interior makeover.
Looks like I might be doing the same trip to Pukka in the next 12 months.
Travel safe.
Cheers Ian

[Cannon]

DaOot has been signed, sealed and delivered.

She went fantastically on the way down except for a slight hiccup just outside of Warwick on the first day when she decided to stop.

A nice little chat & away she went again only to stop about 10kms further down the road.

Changed over to the right hand fuel tank & we never had another hiccup.

I guess there maybe a bit of water in that tank or a bit of rubbish but it's up to TBC to look after her now.

I'm sure I'll get the odd phone call though :)

Here's my trip log & a few happy snaps along the way.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/113.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/114.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/115.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/116.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/117.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/118.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/119.jpg

[Cannon]

What are the seat belts mounted to? Particularly the shoulder straps?

Regarding your brake dramas. Long after you got them working, a brake line failed which raises the question, 'was that the source of the air all along?' I ask this after reading/seeing/hearing somewhere that replacing all the metal lines during a restoration of a vehicle this old is a good move because they can become pitted and you really don't know how thin a sidewall is. That would fit in with your failure.


The seat belts are connected to the panel behind the seats only because when we put the roof back on after summer I couldn't be bothered moving them back to the fittings on the roof.

I never had a brake failure. Had a lot of trouble bleeding but never a failure. :)

[crackers]

I never had a brake failure. Had a lot of trouble bleeding but never a failure. :)

The bleeding fun and games was what I was referring to.

As for your printouts, no heart rate readings? Coward :twisted:

Nothing like testing a vehicle on a long run is there. Be you'll miss her... and maybe TBC :angel:

[Homestar]

One hell of a water crossing you must have had on the first day - an altitude of -14 metres was recorded - that's some wading depth... :D:angel::wasntme:

[Cannon]

Forgot to put this in my previous post.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/93.jpg

It was sad to DaOot go & it's weird to not see her out in the yard, but I'm sure TBC & DaOot will be having a great time.

They've already planned a trip to Albury on the weekend to go driving with a mate.

[Cannon]

TBC has been getting out and about a little bit & having a great time.

Here's some pics of DaOot in the Victorian wilderness :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/56.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/57.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/58.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/59.jpg

[Cannon]

Hi Everyone,

while I was sitting here waiting for some photos of The Unnamed Landy to upload I thought I'd add a little update to DaoOt's thread.

TBC is in the RAAC 2nd Cavalry Regiment based in Townsville.

He's having a great time & through DaOot has met plenty of Landy minded people & made some new friends.

Gotta love the LR community:)

Anyway here's a video of DaOot mounting the transport to Townsville & then enjoying a day at the beach.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9hljrOubCA

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/861.jpg

[Cannon]

I thought I'd update DaOot's thread as there's been a few upgrades & adventures.

There's been a Roamerdrive added.

Gotta say it's a beautiful addition to the vehicle.

Unfortunately I've only been able to drive it once. :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/50.jpg

There's been a blown head gasket & head refurbishment done.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/51.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/52.jpg

TBC decided it was too hot driving around with a full hardtop so he removed the sides & had a frame made.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/53.jpg

Out for a bit of fun.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/54.jpg

[Cannon]

Finally with the canvas installed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/47.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/48.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/49.jpg

[Cap]

Looking great, I like the idea of having the option of canvas or hard sides, great idea.

Can anyone tell me what the colour name is? By the looks of it its the same colour as mine.

EDIT: think I found the answer :Series II & IIa Paint Codes (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-and-iia/123473-series-ii-iia-paint-codes.html)