My 1955 86" rebuild.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Those two (date) gaps seemed like forever Denis,,,:p:p:p

[Dinty]

Pedro, I would sooner be on the road like you LOL, instead of flogging myself to death fixing up these wrecks
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-iia/221207-carb-issues.html
and this one 109 Wksp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qGBwNb1rpQ&feature=youtu.be
it had the complete fuel system cleaned out, add to that Anzac Day etc etc LOL, your always welcome to drop in n help, cheers mate Dennis

[Cobber]

Those seats look great, nice work :cool:

[Dinty]

The only credit I can take for the seats is talking to the staff @ Exmoor trim and asking for them in Black, paid for them over the phone then sat back n waited for them to arrive from the UK, LOL cheers n thanks Dennis

[OnSafari]

I have been away from this project lately fixing other issues on other vehicles, hopefully that issue has now been resolved.
Today I unpacked the Exmoor trim seats that were imported into the country back in late January 2015, this morning I have fitted them up complete with all the split pins and ?? anti rattle spring washers (fiddly little items they are) anyway as per the rulez of the site, the image
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4050_zpse4boesrx.jpg
I have yet to open the split pins slightly, to stop them slipping out, anyway cheers Dennis

Did you purchase this seat kit direct from exmoors or did you have to go through the Aussie distributor?

Thanks

[OnSafari]

Just noticed, you did get them from the UK, i only ask as Exmoors site doesn't list Australia when ordering online.

Also, how do you knock the rivet heads off when stripping down panels?

Thanks

[Dinty]

I ordered the seats direct from Exmoor, paid for them over the phone, sat back n waited for them, I specified 'Black' just to be different.
To remove 'pop' type rivets I used a drill with a 3/16" bit, for solid rivets I use a very sharp cold chisel, watching the angle that you use the chisel so it doesn't damage the panel, for alloy spot welds I use a 20mm wide thin wood chisel, it cuts through the spot weld easy as, hope that's of some help to you, cheers Dennis

[mick88]

I'm still getting sidetracked with other issues on other Land Rovers that I own, and at present I have been working on my sssshhhhhhhhh! gunbuggy (sssshhhh so digger doesn't hear about it) anyway I hope I have resolved the issue with the carburetor.
Yesterday sometime I was fiddling with the LHS door lock mechanism, part of the body of the mechanism has a split in it,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DJM110087/IMG_4056_zps9dl6bloi.jpg
it needed brazing so out with oxy gear and in no time the split was brazed up
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DJM110087/IMG_4057_zpskishxdy2.jpg
all parts had been grit blasted etch primed and painted Silver, it just needs re-assembling, all 6 x 2BA screws etc were run over with tap n die, I cheat a little and use a battery powered drill to run the screws down through the die
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DJM110087/IMG_4055_zps0kiz21wx.jpg
well it does save time and wear n tear on your wrists, it is amazing the power those types of drills have, anyway cheers Dennis


You work bench looks like mine Dennis!
Everything catalogued and then stored in alphabetical order!
Cheers, Mick.

[wrinklearthur]

You work bench looks like mine Dennis!
Everything catalogued and then stored in alphabetical order!
Cheers, Mick.

I know I have a workbench somewhere I put it there years ago.
.

[Dinty]

The bench (if you could call it that) has steadily got worse over the years, but the sudden flood we had back in late April tipped it over the top, and I just have not got back to shifting all items as to where they ought to be, but I do know where to look LOL cheers Dennis

[harry]

You work bench looks like mine Dennis!
Everything catalogued and then stored in alphabetical order!
Cheers, Mick.


that gear thing on the right of picture, in the alloy body, is that part of a cheetah aircraft engine?

[wrinklearthur]

that gear thing on the right of picture, in the alloy body, is that part of a cheetah aircraft engine?
I have just the place for it, if it is in the way?

I would say it will fit nicely into the hole on the back of my series one's transfer box.
.

[Dinty]

And that will be the place it's going LOL cheers Dennis

[Carzee]

All the best, here's hoping you had a good day today, probably freezing like me. :(

[Dinty]

Well today I mustered up enough get up n go to do a small job on the Series 1, it has been some time since I have done anything at all.
I had bought 2 x H4 headlights and I needed the bits to mount them, so scrounging through my pile of stuff I managed to find the items that I needed, they were grubby to say the least
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DJM110093/IMG_4102_zpsh09bi1wk.jpg
so I set about cleaning them up, using WD40 n steel wool
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DJM110093/IMG_4103_zpsfhdug0fh.jpg
the backing/adjusting rings will get a clean up using the grit blaster when I get around to it, anyway to keep the H4's from being damaged they have been temporarily fitted
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DJM110093/IMG_4104_zpsr310jfyf.jpg
anyway that's been part of my day.
Somehow I just can't seem to get into it, methinks it's time I gave work a BIG MISS as it's p******** me off, anyway rant over cheers Dennis

[crackers]

The steel wool and WD40 seems a good tip judging by the photos.

BTW, you've got the horse shoe on upside down - the way you've got it, all the luck will fall out ;)

[mick88]

The steel wool and WD40 seems a good tip judging by the photos.

BTW, you've got the horse shoe on upside down - the way you've got it, all the luck will fall out ;)


Steel Wool and hot soapy water is fantastic for chrome work and glass, as it will not scratch the surfaces. But beware, never use the plastic type of jex/scotchbrite alternatives as they will scratch.


Cheers, Mick.

[1950landy]

I always used the soapy steel wool pads work a treat on chrome . The soap acts as a lubricant to prevent scratching. I read an article in Practical Classics once on keeping chrome in good condition which said you should wipe WD40 on chrome regularly to prevent rust.

[1950landy]

I fond that since I retired it is hard to find time to work on the cars , I haven't looked at the Mini I am doing for at least a year. What with two daughters with husbands who don't know which end of a screwdriver to hang on to. Must never have helped there old man when they were kids.

[mick88]

I fond that since I retired it is hard to find time to work on the cars , I haven't looked at the Mini I am doing for at least a year. What with two daughters with husbands who don't know which end of a screwdriver to hang on to. Must never have helped there old man when they were kids.


There is a lot to be said for learning practical skills etc.
So many young kids today are inside playing with their IT equipment and not outside working on their old motorcycle or paddock basher.
I have a young nephew who lives next door and I often get him to come over and assist me when I am reassembling a motor or fabricating a piece of equipment, so that he can pick up a few tricks to take on his journey through life. After all, knowledge is no weight to bear!


Cheers, Mick.

[Dinty]

I'm feeling a lot better ATM as I don't have to go to work now for the next 21 daze, I did work today @ my first job (nursing disability clients) a lot less stressfull than aged care, anyway yesterday I had cleaned the windscreen glasses and fitted them to the frame, but I had run out of glazing strip, I use insertion rubber from Clark rubber, 50mm x 1mm, this is placed under the alloy strips, tighten the screws then cut it off using a Stanley knife, anyway I managed to pick up some rubber this afternoon, and in no time the job was done and the screen fitted to the bulkhead
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4189_zpsaeh6ql8x.jpg
now to find some of the throttle bell cranks and fit them up so I can move it around, anyway cheers Dennis

[Disco-tastic]

love your work dennis! She's a beauty. Every time I see pics it makes me want to find my own.

Cheers

Dan

[Dinty]

I'm still fiddling with the likes of these little gems
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4209_zps7hq4xejb.jpg
I haven't a clue as to how I'm hold onto it while I grit blast the small bits.
Then there is this beauty, I'm a tad worried about when I finally get to assemble it, ? how much pressure is needed to push down on the Bakelite center and approximately what distance does it sit off the steering wheel boss
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4210_zpsz8oqjg4e.jpg
the wheel needs to be grit blasted as well as the other items, then cracks filled in on the wheel then refurb it, anyway cheers Dennis

[crackers]

You're lucky having something to fix.
My carby linkages were wired on :eek:
I don't have a centre or any of those springs and stuff on the steering wheel. :(
What's that switch on the horn push?

[LandroverScott]

You're lucky having something to fix.

What's that switch on the horn push?

That'd be the high beam switch

[crackers]

That'd be the high beam switch

That's a neat place for it. Still there for the 1956 107 ute?

[Northern Lander]

With the early style horn and stator tube there are 3 spacers that are spaced along the steering column. 2 felt and one rubber.
It should be an easyish push, however leave the clamp and possibly the plate at the bottom off to help with fitting.
the bakerlite part should fit a few mm above the steering wheel center.
The spring and dome cover live under the steering wheel and covers the top bearing of the column and the spring holds it there.
Im sure others will be along to assist.

Hope this helps a bit, I don't have access to my vehicles or pic at the moment.

Wardy

[Dinty]

Wardy, I was looking through countless images that I have stored in a Terra bite storage thingy and I found that what I was doing was very wrong.
I didn't dismantle the vehicle I bought it from a mate who lost interest, but what I was trying to do (because I'm dumb LOL) I thought the spring and the dished plate sat under the bakelite and into the recess of the steering wheel, but when I saw the a steering wheel in one of the images it all came together, just like you described, those items have now been grit blasted etc and are now waiting for me to do something with the steering wheel, so I can finish off the wiring, anyway cheers and thanks for the help, Dennis
PS I have 1 of the felt bushes, I will have to source some from the UK I suppose,,.

[JDNSW]

That throttle linkage ball joint you show was only introduuced in Series 2a production, in the mid-late sixties. Series One should have the adjustable brass ones.

John

[Dinty]

Not so John, the system in place is all Series 1, see image taken from S1 parts book
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4218_zpswmxug9yk.jpg
and here is the link to the Solex from the lower bell crank on the inlet manifold
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4217_zpsvrybk3n1.jpg
some of my S2A's have those ball type assemblies and others are some type of clip, anyway cheers Dennis

[JDNSW]

OK, I bow to your better information. Its a long time since I've had a Series 1!

John

[digger]

Dinty,

Are you sure you restored this??

The more I look at the photos the more I think you went back to 1954 in some
sort of time machine and bought one to bring back....


great job.

digger

[Dinty]

Well another interesting @ the 'Lunatic Asylum', I went to retrieve the LHS door lock to fit insitu, only to find that what I had refurbished months ago was another lock assembly for the RHS ######'s.
So a quick check through another pile of stuff and a physical/visual check to make sure I had the correct bitz, then check the parts manual to see if any bits were interchangeable, and there is (thankfully),
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4219_zpsqc7nwlfm.jpg
cover all holes etc to stop grit getting in, fire up the grit blaster, blow off dust etch prime n paint, hang on clothes line (well that's what their for LOL)
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4220_zpsqrkje6il.jpg
about 1 hour later all dry and ready to fit, end of job
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4221_zpsdflkyryd.jpg
Wrong, I closed the door (and it shut quite easily) only to find I couldn't re-open it,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
check check n check again, the only way out was to add a spacer washer or two between Bulkhead and chassis rail
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4225_zpsqqpntgu3.jpg
I had to undo all the nuts n bolts that held the B/head to the chassis, all the floor screws along the LHS, the rad/sup panel, then with my wife helping I levered the B/head away from the chassis she inserted 2 spacer washers, I knocked them into place with a punch located through the chassis outrigger, while I tapped them into alignment, then slipped the tie bolt back into place.
The gap was wider by 6mm, enabling me to open n close the door with no trouble, but I need to pull the LHS B/head forward to open this gap
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4223_zpsilozsomt.jpg
anyway here is how I supported the B/head to stop it dropping down
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4227_zps00cud4ck.jpg
I'm reasonably happy with the door gap ATM
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4224_zpstujgqdti.jpg


I will be glad when I'm finished with work, hopefully my head wont be as scrambled, fancy doing 2 door locks for the one side of a vehicle LOL, anyway cheers Dennis
PS Digger, mate don't ever lose sight of the fact that I'm just a looney who doesn't know when that's good enough LOL, now where did I park that DeLorean??!!,,.

[crackers]

Silly bugga. See, if you made a mess of things instead of doing them properly, you wouldn't have to do things twice so you can feel like the rest of us :p

[Dinty]

I went shopping this morning, it was a bit like 5 finger discounts LOL to pick up the remainder of the hoop set, not the best weather to be out n about in nevertheless a good morning out, the goods secured on the roof
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4229_zpsjojuq4rt.jpg
and safely removed awaiting a break in the weather
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4230_zpskeu2qz2b.jpg
so I can dismantle them, and give it the attention it needs, cheers Dennis

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Mate, I saw a pic of some land rover guy polishing a panel on a 2015 production line110,,

your panel gaps are EXQUISITE ,,;):cool:

[Dinty]

I have been cleaning/repairing the steering wheel over the past few days when time permits, anyway it's coming along slowly
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4240_zpsode4dx2k.jpg
the rim had some cracks which I have used my dremel drill and a burring tool to open up the cracks and then fill with epoxy resin, anyway I have bought a can of plastic etch primer this morning, I need to find the paint that I want to use also, anyway cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

The steering wheel has been done, it has a few minor imperfections but I suppose you have to expect that when your eyesight is upta and colour blind to boot LOL
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
I will buy a good quality steering wheel cover from the UK and no-one will see the imperfections, anyway cheers Dennis

[crackers]

That's nowhere near good enough. How about you give it to me and I'll give you Wombat's so you can have another go :p

This is one job I'll be getting back to you on because mine is horrible - that job's a loooooonnnnnnnngggggg way into the future though.

[numpty]

http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4275_zpstxsgavkb.jpg[/IMG]
I will buy a good quality steering wheel cover from the UK and no-one will see the imperfections, anyway cheers Dennis

Pangolin in the States do a nice leather sew on cover Dennis. I have one on my S1.

Perry

[Dinty]

In between showers of rain (curses++) I have been slowly progressing with this small but very important part
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4276_zpsp0qivkdk.jpg
part of the Poodle Patrol have given me the thumbs up LOL, note 'Digger's' sleeper Max (the sheltie) he is keeping a close watch on proceedings,
I suspect he is somehow in contact with 'Digger' LOL
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4278_zpsfkn8n10w.jpg
I have checked it electrically and it works, but not until after some judicious cleaning of the contacts, anyway cheers Dennis
ps Thanks 'Crackers' for offering to take that poor workmanship off my hands, just send me your address LOL,,.

[digger]

I've been worried and have had withdrawals because its beenso long Dennis.

As usual superb work. I'm told by a little do....i mean..birddie that you havent enjoyed the weather recently

Our tanks were low so we loved it!

Keep up the magnificent work!

[Dinty]

Down in the depths of the shed, I dared to climb a ladder to the loft, get this box down and look into it
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DENNIS-DIANNE/Pictures/IMG_4285_zpsrgn9vchh.jpg
I was looking in particular for a Lucas L639 body + the chrome fixing ring
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DENNIS-DIANNE/Pictures/IMG_4286_zpsc9h5ekmq.jpg
of which I had quite a few, so I cleaned a few of them with Brasso and selected the better one.
Prior to climbing the ladder I found my favourite 6" ruler that has been missing for almost 3 years, I did find 3 L639 bodies ( I used the ruler to scrape paint to check the ID)
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DENNIS-DIANNE/Pictures/IMG_4287_zpsgexnxksc.jpg
but I need to be able to buy a rubber boot/body for the light as the ones I have are U/S.
While up in the loft I re-acquainted myself with the contents of these boxes
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
then had a sticky beak into this box as well, all new bits for the 110
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DENNIS-DIANNE/Pictures/IMG_4288_zpsttyddfib.jpg
also up there was a NOS MX6707 complete anyway I will keep looking for a supplier of the rubber boot/body, cheers Dennis

[klonk]

Hi Dinty, Seeing Diggers sheltie reminded me of my sisters one back in NZ when we were kids. He used to love going shooting. I had a rabbit sniping spot on the neighbours farm about 600mtrs from our house, if he saw me taking the 22 out of the cupboard he would beat me to that spot every time. He used to carry the rabbit legs back home that Id cut off, wouldnt eat them untill we were home. He also used to hide in the passengers footwell of the land rover while I was packing for weekend hunting trips and would emerge when I stopped at the first traffic intersection in town with a big smile on his face. Cheers Steve

[numpty]

[QUOTE=Dinty;2424901]Down in the depths of the shed, I dared to climb a ladder to the loft, get this box down and look into it
While up in the loft I re-acquainted myself with the contents of these boxes
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/DENNIS-DIANNE/Pictures/IMG_4290_zpso6jcqy3a.jpg

:o A box of Land Rover "budgie smugglers" Please don't put them on Dennis!

[Pedro_The_Swift]

theres got to be a camouflage joke in there too somewhere:p

[NQSeriesRover]

Hi Dennis, looking great as always mate. Did you have to remove the center horn button? Mine is broken (on the 80") and I'm unsure how to remove it without inflicting more damage but do want to undertake a epoxy repair to it.....any suggestions?

cheers, matt

[Dinty]

http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4320_zpsl0qjvfjr.jpg
The steering wheel cover arrived from the UK my good wife has stitched it up for me, now it needs to be fitted, Matt I didn't dismantle this Land Rover but there is a type of clamp at the base of the steering box which acts as a clamp, the tube cannot be removed until you have removed it, hope that's of some help, cheers Dennis
ps I forgot to add that my new canvas top is on it's way from Victoria, should arrive sometime next week,,.

[crackers]

That's a nice wheel cover, should be really good in your hands.

[1950landy]

My wife is a quilter but I can't get her to sow a button on my shirt , I would have no chance getting her to sow on a steering wheel cover. Nice job Dennis.

[Dinty]

Nice n warm here today, 30c going to be hotter tomorrow, it was perfect weather for grit blasting/etch priming as the etch flashed off very quickly.
I have a new canvas top coming from Victoria sometime next week, so I thought I had best extract the finger and make a move on restoring the hoodsticks n bows.
As usual all the nut/bolt assemblies were frozen, so out with the heat package


http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4330_zps4ifxhdcc.jpg



warm them up spray with penetrating oil, allow to cool and just tighten it up first then snap it undone, and they all came apart
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4325_zpsycijqycz.jpg
10 minutes later, the nut was still very warm, but I dare not drop it as I might not ever find it LOL
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4328_zpsrl7caygd.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4329_zpsfle1r2pr.jpg
this is what happens to bodgy stuff
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4327_zpsekxbahi6.jpg
a quick hit with the thin disc and it's rubbish.
All parts were put through the grit blast cabinet, to remove the accumulated crud of the past 60 years, and the old rubber held in by mush/head rivets was removed, all parts came up nice n clean, some have been etch primed
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4332_zps9klz9skn.jpg
a couple of parts will need to be brazed, that's a job for the morning
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4333_zps9iwg4amz.jpg
vibrations have caused those cracks to develop, anyway cheers Dennis

[crackers]

Funny how that tighten before loosening works isn't it. Wonder if someone worked that out or if, like most of us, had a habit of turning the nut the wrong way and suddenly realised it was making things easier :angel:

Incidentally, your picture of the burner shows as a link (you left the [/img] off). What gas is it?

[Dinty]

My internet connection was on the blink so gawd knows what that was LOL, the gas is the 'Map' gas that I was telling you about a few weeks ago, it is a disposable cylinder, Bunnings sell them, saves me lighting the Oxy/acetylene, cheers Dennis
ps now the image can be seen along with a much bigger gap between the text LOL

[crackers]

I thought it was the unit you showed me the other day. What's MAP?

[Dinty]

A link to the google page, cheers Dennis
https://www.google.com.au/?gws_rd=ssl#q=map+gas+torch

[Dinty]

Pushing on regardless of the heat, I had to run the tap n die over these and more this morning
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4341_zps9xifcmq6.jpg
they were grit blasted, etch primed (and the underside of all washers painted flat black), now awaiting their top coat of Silver
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4342_zps87oxiqg0.jpg
Some of the hoodsticks needed attention as they were bent out of shape
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4339_zpsvqw0ovxu.jpg
and a little while later after some careful use of force
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4340_zpsq4qqqqvq.jpg
one of them had a very rusted up bolt that had to be removed, so I cut it off with bolt cutters and ground it back, then hit it with a sharp cold chisel
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4337_zpsioqp9t6o.jpg
it then unscrewed LOL
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4338_zps653onvoh.jpg
Some the hoodsticks have been etch primed, some needed a touch with the Mig, it will have to wait now until tomorrow after work, when I will clean them up and etch prime them.
I mixed up a small amount of Silver paint this afternoon, and sprayed a couple of items
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4343_zpshdsh2baf.jpg
anyway that's been part of my day, hopefully my new canvas cover will arrive from Victoria through the week, cheers Dennis

[crackers]

That man's got a lathe, lucky so and so :mad:

(anyone else take the opportunity to check out other people's sheds as well as looking at the Landy bits? :D)

[Dinty]

I also have a lot of other stuff as well, but not like some people in here that have 1st class workshops that make my stuff look ancient LOL, I bought that lathe almost 38 years ago and used it to build this
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/Dennis034_zps61397d66.jpg
it runs on compressed air so it will run on steam when I ever get around to it, it's a 5" gauge 'P' class 4-6-0 NSWGR with an 8 wheeled tender, cheers Dennis

[crackers]

Impressive. Going from that to these pieces of glorified farm machinery must be a shock to the system.

[Dinty]

Another day, a little further down the road, cooler today only 25c and I managed to finish off the hoodsticks
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4344_zpsrrfxpc5a.jpg
in between helping my wife prune/chop/cut out this big bush thing, it has filled the No5, that's a tip job tomorrow.
The hoop for the front
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4345_zpsiytaecuq.jpg
the sundry bits
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4346_zpsqdjvc8kt.jpg
and last but not least the clamps
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4347_zpsjmwcrngk.jpg
my new canvas arrived yesterday, it looks the ducks gutz, I must say here 'Thank You' to Scallops who took the time over some months (my fault because I misplaced them) to take images and dimensions, picture will be taken when all is assembled soon cheers Dennis
ps 2 of the 1/4BSF Csk screws n square nuts undid this morning after a little application of heat courtesy of the Map gas torch and some penetrene, they came apart like they had only been put on last night LOL,,.

[flyinglandrover]

I dread to think what type of massive beast you have chained to the clothes line judging by the size of the chain!
Great job! Really enjoying following your posts! Thanks!

[Dinty]

Well the chain was the first piece that I could lay my hands on without shifting meters of air hose LOL.
This morning I went out to get things ready in preparation to fit the new canvas, but not to be outdone I checked the hoodsticks for any areas that I may have missed, I knew I should have got the good wife to check it over, I had missed so many small spots that the hoodsticks looked like a leopard LOL,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4348_zps6kmvnhnc.jpg
the new canvas
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4349_zpsgdj6j31c.jpg
so again I had to re-spray most of the bits again, so the fitting is off for another day, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

The paint dried quicker than I expected, so I have fitted it all to the tub
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4351_zpsfjt4midc.jpg
the horizontal tie bars were missing 2 Countersunk screws, I knew that I had ordered some from the UK some years ago, I managed to find them, but I needed 2 square nuts, so I pinched 2 from the spire nuts (new) that I have in the shed, they are 1/4"UNF not BSF, as I couldn't source any 1/4"BSF Countersunk screws in Oz
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4350_zpsyrb1lf4c.jpg
the hoodstick clamps insitu
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4352_zps1mabluli.jpg
now I need to check my stock of 1.6mm aluminium sheet so I can cut some strips to refit the door rubbers etc, anyway that's enough fun for one day, cheers Dennis

[crackers]

So she's got her new dress but can't wear it because you've got the wrong buttons :angel:

[Dinty]

I have moved a lot of gear around this morning to get the Series 1 out of it's hibernation, and move it out so as I could fit some of the extra hardware to accommodate the soft top
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4353_zps06d0uzgc.jpg
then with the good wife helping we rolled the top into place
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4354_zpsbblwayyy.jpg
and the view from the rear
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4355_zpsp0sixbvm.jpg
the top looks really good, the ropes were long enough, I just didn't have the strength to pull it through, Mark came along and did the job for me (Thanks Mark) I'm also not familiar with the Series 1 soft top either, anyway I' still happy with it, cheers Dennis

[crackers]

Looks real good mate... and just in time for summer where you won't want it up :D
Seriously, can you roll up the sides to give shade protection with plenty of airflow? Or don't you need to do this?

[Dinty]

The sides are able to be rolled up if you desire, but it's not registered as yet and most likely won't be till after the new year, as I have 9 registrations on Land Rovers, 1 next month (110) and 8 series in December + 2 military trailers, I will be skint LOL cheers Dennis

[klonk]

Looking good, now you've got it just about finished what's the next project ;).

[Dinty]

Well another couple of daze and I have inched closer to completing the Land Rover, I put the door tops on just to reduce the amount of items that I have hanging in the shed, even with no glass/Perspex it looks good
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4362_zpsybi7zstl.jpg
but Saturday was spent divided between Series 1 & cleaning out the opposite side of the shed where this has sat for more than 6 years without seeing daylight
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4357_zpsjdeb1fzr.jpg
it has all the sundry items needed to assemble the work area between Land Rover n trailer, it also has a Gen/set in there as well.
While cleaning up flood debris and after mice etc, I had to disturb the 'tender' off my 5" gauge P class,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4361_zpscuezklrv.jpg
I was able (just) to get it down without any injury to self or tender, clean the area up and put it all back.
With the shed being 'cleaned' this morning after watching the start of the Bathurst, I smeared some never-sieze on the splines of the steering shaft, insert a thin blade screwdriver into the split on the S/wheel boss, then carefully lined the wheel where I wanted it, pinch bolt in the hole, soft faced mallet in right hand, hit the steering wheel boss with the mallet (I hit it down inside the hollow of the wheel) no damage done to any painted surfaces, until I felt the pinch bolt locate in the groove, it is home (hopefully forever)
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4364_zpsglkhf8gb.jpg
then I sourced a suitable length of wire that I could feed down through the hollow shaft, I rolled the end of the wire back onto itself so it would go over the bushes etc that are in the shaft to support the tube with the wires etc, then attach the wire to the electrical wires by rolling/twisting the wire along the length of the electrical wires and bind it all with electrical tape, making sure that none of it is too large for the internal diameter of the hollow shaft.
With some help from the good wife the job was over in around a minute
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4365_zpspbisjbpd.jpg
the wires all hanging out the bottom of the steering box
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4366_zpscnocsdno.jpg
now I have to find the clamp that goes on the end of the shaft with the wires to stop it moving up/down in the steering shaft, I did have that part about 2 weeks ago, but ATM I haven't a clue as to where I've put it LOL, anyway that's enough excitement for one day, cheers Dennis
ps Steve, I have no inclination to do another Land Rover as the 10 that I have will keep me occupied, and you are not alone in asking 'what's the next project on the horizon mate' NONE is my reply,,.
pps I have found the brass keep n gasket it's fitted,,.

[crackers]

ps Steve, I have no inclination to do another Land Rover as the 10 that I have will keep me occupied, and you are not alone in asking 'what's the next project on the horizon mate' NONE is my reply,,.


See, if you swapped one of your Landys with me, you'd have one less to look after and hence be able to do up Wombat whereas I'd have a Landy to play with and wouldn't have to do up Wombat. :D

[Dinty]

I'm forever astounded at the generosity of fellow forum users who continually offer to take Land Rovers off my hands to free me up for something else LOL, well Digger wants the Gunbuggy, Eric P wants anything!! anyone else LOL cheers mate Dennis

[wrinklearthur]

I'm forever astounded at the generosity of fellow forum users who continually offer to take Land Rovers off my hands to free me up for something else LOL, well Digger wants the Gunbuggy, Eric P wants anything!! anyone else LOL cheers mate Dennis

I want something that neither of us has got, - time!
.

[digger]

Im willing to trade!,

I will tell you the identity of my spy in exchange for the mmmmmmmmm......

Sorry got distracted there.... in exchange for the gunb...mmmmmmmm

Ohh you know what i mean!!!

(Not very loyal am i!)

*mmmm ... gunbuggy ...mmmm*

[klonk]

Well if there's trading session going on Ill offer up an over weight diabetic black cat, would love another sheltie to go with klonk.

[Dinty]

Time constraints have only allowed some little time to play today, but I have managed to take another small step forward.
I have been looking/studying the circuit diagrams for the Series 1 with blinkers and my head is still spinning LOL, anyway the first step was to fit a blinker type light to the LH front guard, the first step was to postion the light and lightly mark the spot with a drill bit
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4378_zpszqncasog.jpg
I then had to purchase these inserts, look @ 'Max' he heard me reading that it has been suggested he be swapped for a 'Cat' I think he is sending a message to 'Digger' LOL
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4377_zpsxuve9pn3.jpg
then with a pair of dividers, mark out the width of the opening @ 9/32" that's the scratch marks, drill through 9/64" then 17/64", using a square file open up the hole so it will accept the plastic inserts
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4379_zps7dnml3ul.jpg
rough enough is good enough LOL, then push the inserts into place
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4380_zpsfiqkwu7c.jpg
then fit the light using the 2 screws to engage the inserts and your done,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4381_zpsl0jfwm4q.jpg
cheers Dennis

[Cobber]

A small step is a step none the less. It looks great :BigThumb:

[mick88]

Is that piece of wing fiberglass Dennis?

Cheers, Mick.

[Dinty]

No the guards are all aluminium, I have done the RHS this afternoon and fitted my NOS 'Pork Pies' as well. Tomorrow I'm going to mark out n cut the holes for the rear blinkers (hopefully) anyway cheers Dennis

[crackers]

He makes it look easy doesn't he :cool:

[JDNSW]

Why did you use a fastener type that was not invented until long after the Series 1 was built rather than the screw/nut/washer/spring washer used at that time? (Not criticism, just seeking to understand reasons for doing things.)

John

[Dinty]

John, that type of fastener/clip was used on the early S2A, well it was on 112-501 when it was stripped down, it is hard to see the holes in this image but they are there
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/Lot3592akaChloe.jpg
so I went with it. I know all types of screws/self tappers etc have been used on various models throughout the years, self tappers stuff up holes eventually, small 4BA screws are a right PIA at the best of times, but I will be using 6 x some type of small screws to hold the rear blinkers insitu, cheers Dennis
ps I forgot the reasoning, Series 1 guards vibrate like crazy (or at least that's my recollection from 40 years ago) so if this does happen on mine, at least I will be able to change the globe in the blinker light by undoing the 2 self tappers that screw into the nylon block, and they will not wear out in my lifetime LOL,,.

[1950landy]

Hi Dennis , I stoped the guards on Landy vibrating by using a 25mm x 2mm flat bar under the guard & clamping the guard between it & the front panel :o, I also did the same down the rear if the guard clamping the flange fully against the fire wall:cool:. This stoped the vibration & also stoped cracking of the guards. :D I know it's not origional but like your nylon incerts to hold the lights on if it prevents other problems & can't be seen why not.
Gee you do a good restoration ,:BigThumb::BigThumb::BigThumb: You can come & wave your wand over Landy any day.

[JDNSW]

Hi Dennis , I stoped the guards on Landy vibrating by using a 25mm x 2mm flat bar under the guard & clamping the guard between it & the front panel :o, I also did the same down the rear if the guard clamping the flange fully against the fire wall:cool:......

This sort of retrospective modification used to be quite common on Series 1s. Usually installed after the mudguard cracked!

John

[Dinty]

Not a great deal accomplished today but some progress nonetheless.
The rear blinkers that I was going to use were incorrect as they were stop/clearance lights (as fitted to No5 trailers) so a quick scrounge through my left over trailer parts and I soon sourced the correct ones, here is a shot of the rear showing the 'Pork Pie' lights
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4393_zps4gqkbrlr.jpg
I had intended to have the blinker lights up as high as possible but I had forgotten about the Oval badge, so now they are to be mounted lower, the position for them has been marked out in pencil, I just hope I have got it right,,.
The light bodies were stripped the rubber boots given a thorough clean up with armor all, chrome rings with Brasso
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4396_zpsfaa5syy1.jpg
the light bodies were grit blasted and painted
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4397_zpsg7cq7kpe.jpg
and I stripped a few lengths of Green/White & Green/Red wire from this loom
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4395_zpsa58gb4x5.jpg
as I wanted to keep the wiring easy to follow as per the circuit, anyway maybe tomorrow I will have moved along a little further, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I needed to get out for a hour or so this morning, so we went for a drive up through the Pokolbin SF, I hadn't been in there for a number of years quite a few changes, houses in what I call a flood plain!!!, obviously they have never experienced a flood or maybe not talked to the locals, anyway that's their problem all in all a nice enjoyable 90 minutes.
Now after lunch and into the serious stuff of cutting the holes for rear blinkers, well I couldn't see any of the light marks in pencil that I had done yesterday, so over to the recycle bin and get some stiff cardboard, check measurements again cut cardboard for the RHS, then check that it can be used as a reverse pattern for the LHS and it was, so mark the spot, punch the spot with a punch, then set the dividers to half of 1 5/16", this is now the point of no return, scribe the outer of the hole to be cut, drill a pilot hole, open it up with a 3/8" drill
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
then I use my Air/conditioners fitters tool to cut a neat 1 3/16" diameter hole
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
screw the square shaft with a spanner, it cuts as it pulls in the die and you end up with a very neat hole
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
apply, very carefully a half round file and open up the hole to the scribed line, then check n recheck with the light so as it's a snug fit in the hole
when happy with the fit drill the 3 holes 9/64" for the 3 fixing screws
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
then the job is half finished as it's not wired into the loom as yet, but it looks the part
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
anyway we will see what tomorrow brings, cheers Dennis

[digger]

I needed to get out for a hour or so this morning, so we went for a drive up through the Pokolbin SF, I hadn't been in there for a number of years quite a few changes, houses in what I call a flood plain!!!, obviously they have never experienced a flood or maybe not talked to the locals, anyway that's their problem all in all a nice enjoyable 90 minutes.
Now after lunch and into the serious stuff of cutting the holes for rear blinkers, well I couldn't see any of the light marks in pencil that I had done yesterday, so over to the recycle bin and get some stiff cardboard, check measurements again cut cardboard for the RHS, then check that it can be used as a reverse pattern for the LHS and it was, so mark the spot, punch the spot with a punch, then set the dividers to half of 1 5/16", this is now the point of no return, scribe the outer of the hole to be cut, drill a pilot hole, open it up with a 3/8" drill
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4404_zpsxacn1eev.jpg
then I use my Air/conditioners fitters tool to cut a neat 1 3/16" diameter hole
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4405_zpsyimf4c2z.jpg
screw the square shaft with a spanner, it cuts as it pulls in the die and you end up with a very neat hole
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4406_zpsrn3ap94f.jpg
apply, very carefully a half round file and open up the hole to the scribed line, then check n recheck with the light so as it's a snug fit in the hole
when happy with the fit drill the 3 holes 9/64" for the 3 fixing screws
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4409_zpskrtuptwh.jpg
then the job is half finished as it's not wired into the loom as yet, but it looks the part
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4408_zps2vswdiau.jpg
anyway we will see what tomorrow brings, cheers Dennis

As usual, excellent workmanship...

BUT... why is the drivers side guard 'resting" in the tub :confused:

(I meant to ask, are the front blinkers also clearance/parking lights?
I like the idea of white glass and a parker light and a yellow/orange blinker light fitted in there also so just wondering... (or maybe trafficators too?? ) )

great work Dennis.

[Dinty]

Digger, I thought everyone's Series 1 had a RHS guard sitting in the tub LOL, well it's there until I get around to connecting all the wires from the headlight dim/switch/horn button on the steering wheel, and all the other sundry wires that need to go into the junction box, and it's a tad easier if the RHS guard is not fitted.
I have fitted H4 headlights with the park/clearance lights in the H4's, the front blinkers are situated where the front park/clearance light used to be, as I didn't want to cut any extra holes in the front guards, cheers Dennis

[crackers]

Why did you use a fastener type that was not invented until long after the Series 1 was built rather than the screw/nut/washer/spring washer used at that time? (Not criticism, just seeking to understand reasons for doing things.)

John

Because he's used the screw/nut/washer/spring washer method before and now values his sanity? :angel:

oops, didn't see all the extra posts

[Dinty]

I'm playing around with the wiring again today,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4437_zpsibim8hpw.jpg
mainly the wiring that supplies power for the lights n horn, the loom runs down the tube in the center of the steering column.
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4438_zpsw81o5jbt.jpg
I have an intermittent fault that I thought I had fixed, when dipping the lights from Lo<<>>Hi beam the switch seems to malfunction with no power transfer to the connector for the Hi beam, has anyone had this issue before and if so how did you fix the problem, also where does the excess wire route around, as I would not like to try and reroute it after it's all connected, cheers Dennis

[crackers]

I struggle to imagine Wombat ever looking that good. Well done (maybe you deserve some dodgy wiring as punishment :angel:)

[wrinklearthur]

With your high / low headlight dipper switch, the striker isn't throwing over completely and probably because it's pivot is dry.
I seem to recall that the spring attached to the striker can get hot somehow lose it's temper and stretch.
You could use the still working low dipper circuit to operate a headlight relay and that would be one way around the problem of current causing heat across the switch points.
.

[Dinty]

I had posted this issue in another forum and this was one of the responses similar to yours wrinklearthur ?? or is it as I'm a dummy when it comes to electrics LOL
12 Volt 5 Blade Relay (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/644/12-volt-5-blade-relay), if it is I'm going to need to have a 'Bex' LOL cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I have removed the item from the steering column again as my arms & T/A (wife) is not home, I have checked the wires and they all have continuity so that tells me they are not broken.
I set the item up in the shed and sprayed it with Freon, gave it heaps then a quick squirt of Inox, it is now working with a positive audible click
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sgf7Xphos68&feature=youtu.be
look @ Max the Sheltie checking things out for 'Digger' LOL, anyway it's pouring rain ATM and with the T/A not available so I guess I will just have to twiddle my thumbs cheers Dennis

[wrinklearthur]

I'm not happy with that relay and I will find you another type to use

[wrinklearthur]

Try this one.

Special Offer Headlight Twin Relay 12volt 30AMPS NEW ERA B NEW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/151167450169?limghlpsr=true&hlpht=true&ul_noapp=true&hlpv=2&chn=ps&lpid=107&ops=true&viphx=1)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/136.jpg

Wiring diagram's

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/137.jpg

or the TRAXIDE TRONICS circuit

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/138.jpg
.

[Bundalene]

Thanks for the heads up, I will be looking for a hiding spot to put 3 relays, horn, high and low beam. :o:o:o


Erich

[Dinty]

In between showers of rain and checking all my other historic rego L/R's as they are due in Dec, I have managed to get both eyes open on the Series 1
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4460_zpsy4wrdzvq.jpg
now in between jobs I will have to make a start o the lights @ the rear, cheers Dennis
ps no work tomorrow on any L/R's as the Postie Bike GP is on
The Australian Postie Bike Grand Prix - Cessnock Motorcycle Club (http://www.cessnockmotorcycleclub.com.au/australian-postie-bike-grand-prix/)

[crackers]

Flip, they're bright. :D

As for the postie bikes. I love them. I was a motorcycle instructor for many years and got to play with these on the range while the students were inside learning stuff. Great little bikes and don't they make a great little hot rod (dammit, you'll have me salivating about bikes again).

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I wonder how many of the new green ones will run,,,

[crackers]

I've just seen the reflection in that mudguard. Is that a boat under that cover? Mate, with restoring Landys, bikes and fishing boats, you are definitely living the dream.

[Dinty]

Now listen up 'Crackers' lol you have to stop having too much alcohol, this is what you saw
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4461_zpsuiuolopr.jpg
now that does not resemble a boat in any way, I know they float etc but a boat lol, mate give the grog away lol, what you see is a No5 and a S2A GS called 'Chloe' my S2A gunbuggy & the Series 1 tucked away under the roof behind the gunbuggy.
I did have a 14' Allycraft' tinnie years ago, but it died of thirst when I started restoring 'Chloe', I still have a 16' Canadian canoe in the shed & a Minkota 12V electric outboard, cheers Dennis

[crackers]

bbbbut that's even betterer... isn't it? :D

(yup, nicely caught :angel:)

[Dinty]

Another good day in the backyard lol, I was able to access some wiring from a mates 'Wolseley' car that he is going to scrap after he has removed the engine/gearbox etc, so the wiring loom was surplus, so I set about removing what I could reach from the existing harness, I wanted these small connectors and the rubber insulation blocks (which are hard to get)
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4468_zpscx0qxhcr.jpg
I went on to use the Green/white wire and Green/red for the turn signals, they were fed through the rubber body of the light along with an earth wire
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4467_zps9wmqpsjb.jpg
and in no time they were soldered and connected to the existing wiring harness
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4473_zpsypzzvhtk.jpg
A flick of a switch and the park/clearance lights came on
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4474_zpslkztleyg.jpg
and a close up of the 'Pork Pie' lights
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4475_zpsjrcnefpc.jpg
anyway that's been my day, cheers Dennis

[grey_ghost]

Hi Dinty,

Sensational work - AS ALWAYS.

As for the small connectors and rubber insulation blocks - I purchased mine through Autosparks - Home of the world leading supplier of classic car wiring looms (http://www.autosparks.co.uk/)

Reasonably cheap (they have single and double connectors) - you just have to wait a while for them to arrive...!

(I bought my wiring loom for my Series 2 from them - it wasn't 100% perfect - but it twas close enough)

Cheers,
GG.

PS - Keep up the great work, I can't wait to see it on the road again!

[crackers]

Now look Dinty, an old British car with real working lights :eek:
It's not right, something's got to give :angel:

[Dinty]

LOL^^^^^^ cheers Dennis

[Lionelgee]

they were grit blasted, etch primed (and the underside of all washers painted flat black), now awaiting their top coat of Silver

G'day Dennis,

Can you please let me know what media you use for "grit blasting"?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[digger]

As usual the whole car is better than when it left the factory.

It must be somewhat empowering to know that in 60+ years of existence this is the
best this car has ever looked or been inside and out.

Well done Dennis!

[Bundalene]

I will second that, what a remarkable effort.

I was thinking about the rear indicators from a few posts back, I'll bet you measured these about 10 times, just to be sure. It would have been difficult cutting through such a great work of art.

I am waiting with baited breath, until you overhaul the rear PTO


Erich

[Dinty]

The rear PTO has been in my mind for some weeks now, but I don't want to start stripping it down while I have other jobs on the go, and in the next 7<>10 days I have to get all the Land Rovers out as they are due for registration, and I'm having them pink slipped as it's cheaper than buying fuel for 8 Series Land Rovers + diesel (for the tow truck 110 County) and having to provide food/drinks for 8 mates and have them sorta tied up for the best part of a day, as the round trip to n fro the rego site is around 110 miles part freeway/back roads etc, anyway thanks for all the compliments and yes I did measure/check/measure/check a few times before cutting into the bodywork, cheers Dennis
ps I forgot to mention that in doing the rear blinkers, I made a template from cardboard so that I had both lights in the same position L<>R, the template fitted like a glove,,.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

*quickly google maps cessnock--
:(

[digger]

Pedro,
at command central I have maps with some "inside info" of the yard and shed layout, security fencing and arrangements. My spy... :angel:I mean my inside source says that the chance to get in and remove a vehicle is slim as the targets are almost always accompanied by someone...

so far I have 16 different proposed plans for the job at hand... lately all have involved at least one semi trailer vehicle transporter..

These plans all include back road and hiding spots between Cessnock and SA but we could do some others for you too!

Maybe between us we could review these and maybe find a commonly agreeable solution ??:twisted::twisted:

PS Dont let Dennis see this post, I think I have him convinced I'm over THAT vehicle... MMMMM that vehicle MMMMM

[Dinty]

I'm doing the 2 step dance ATM, last Wednesday I took some kit (battery/fuel/selection of tools) down to where I have this vehicle in storage
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
it took about 6 minutes and it burst into life, a few minutes with the choke and after that it settled down idling over very nicely, not bad considering it hasn't run since April 25th.
Anyway back to the 19 BOD (my backyard) all manner of things are happening because of the registration check that is looming, I don't want anything to stop the process.
On the Series 1 I'm having a lot of trouble trying to work out why the turn signals will not work, I have applied power 12V direct from the battery to the wiring for the turn sig's and the lights work so bad earth's are not the issue, I'm going out now to have another go at it, wish me luck cheers Dennis

[Pedro_The_Swift]

No no no Digger, you have it all wrong.
I was just going to drive down and help him register them all---

admittedly my internal compass sometimes gets north and south confused but I'm sure all these beautiful vehicles will have a GPS:angel:

[crackers]

She needs regular use. How about I take her in hand and drive her every day. I'll even pay the rego costs :D

[digger]

I'm doing the 2 step dance ATM, last Wednesday I took some kit (battery/fuel/selection of tools) down to where I have this vehicle in storage
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/Quietdrive002.jpg
it took about 6 minutes and it burst into life, a few minutes with the choke and after that it settled down idling over very nicely, not bad considering it hasn't run since April 25th.
Anyway back to the 19 BOD (my backyard) all manner of things are happening because of the registration check that is looming, I don't want anything to stop the process.
On the Series 1 I'm having a lot of trouble trying to work out why the turn signals will not work, I have applied power 12V direct from the battery to the wiring for the turn sig's and the lights work so bad earth's are not the issue, I'm going out now to have another go at it, wish me luck cheers Dennis

Hang in there Dennis, if anyone can do it it will be you!
Good luck to you though

[Dinty]

Well nothing happening here with the Series 1, I'm still stuck on the blinkers, it has to wait now for a few more days as I have been busy checking these over and road testing them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNDC_KlOUck&feature=youtu.be
I'm hoping everything will still be OK on the day, cheers Dennis

[digger]

I swear you do this just to tease me!!


Great job.

[1950landy]

Looks like Camp Dennis. More Land Rovers than the Army has now.

[Dinty]

19 B.O.D (base ordinance depot), the rego check (pink slip) comes around every 3 years gee it seems like every 3 weeks, and NO 'Digger' not tormenting you just justifying my absence from the forum LOL,, cheers Dennis
ps It is cheaper for me to have the vehicles pink slipped rarther than buy fuel for 8 Land Rovers + 2 towing trailers for a 103 mile round trip and 8 helpers + food for the helpers and have them tied up for at least 6 hours of their day,,. just for interest sake there are 9 Land Rovers on the block 2 are farmed out,,.

[crackers]

You getting set to start WW3 Dinty? :D

Lovely collection. :BigThumb:

[digger]

<<<snip>>> 9 Land Rovers on the block 2 are farmed out.
If you need space I could look after a smaller one, you know just to help out.... probably best to select one without a gloss paint... and maybe if you have one that is shorter on the back corners than
the middle of the back that would be easier ???

MMMMM shorter on the back corners than the middle of the back MMMMM

[Dinty]

Well, the fleet has been checked and given the all clear, not a single item wrong anywhere (phew) all now garaged where they should be, now maybe I can get on with doing what I should be, the Series 1, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I'm up in a foreign land ATM (Qld) lol, I walk into my son in laws shed and who do I see
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4493_zpsq0tnrbwr.jpg
Pedro!!!! he is everywhere (sorry about the sideways image) so I guess that I won't be working on the Series 1 for a few daze, cheers Dennis

[Brisruss]

Hey Dennis,
You can come and finish mine off while you are here. Brakes need a bit of attention.
Cheers,
Russ

[Dinty]

Today I spent around 5.5hrs with 'Chinook flyer' dismantling his late model S2A 109 GS, we reduced it to a chassis, it's now on stands, all he needs to do now is clean the crud off the chassis (oil/dirt combo) and get it grit blasted/etch primed, then start the rebuild starting with the chassis repairs/springs/diff housings, was great to get my hands dirty LOL, cheers Dennis.
ps Brissrus, mate I couldn't handle the traffic in Brisbane, I'd be too worried somebody with no rego/insurance would run into my 31 year old 110,,lol.
pps no photos either as I didn't take a camera, yeah I know the rulz, but they have to be broken sometimes lol, well to be honest I forgot to take it (but don't tell anyone,,.

[1950landy]

Pity you are not in Brisbane , you could have had a look through my parts to see if there wasn't anything you needed.

[Dinty]

This issue of the turn sig's not working had me beat for daze, it was doing my head in LOL, I had posted in the S1 club website and 'Klonk & Russelrovers' responded, so I had that backup to fall on if needed.
After some thought, I went cap in hand to see my neighbor who is a retired 'auto sparkie' I went over what I had done, told him the wiring loom is new so is the switch/flasher can, it had him beat as all I could get it to do was flash R<>L but when the pilot light was in the system the can continued to flash until you took the wire off the can???, anyway with a couple of short strips of wire with the ends stripped of their insulation, he twisted them together and placed each of the other ends into the R<>L wires respectively, the flasher can when the switch was activated worked, so did the pilot light up on the switch and when the switch was cancelled the pilot light was extinguished, system working as it should, all I have to do now is make up that short connection and move onto something else, yippee, cheers Dennis
PS here is my little 'twist' LOL with the correct colour codes G/W & G/R
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4558_zpsuyljszrj.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_spPtIGNGbQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqiqJB6KY-k

[Dinty]

While I was away up north, we had some crappy weather here, coming home to a yard full of palm fronds (the horrible ones with jagged razor edges on them), well we had to do something quick, so about 15 of them got cut into small pieces and loaded into the rubbish bin for Wednesday morning, on that same day I was a tad ordinary as I didn't sleep well after the drive back from Qld and it mizzled on n off, Friday was full on getting rid of the remainder (40+ fronds) cut up in the No5 and the back of the 110 chocka.
After having got through the turn signal issue it was time to re-fit the rhs guard, so into the box with all the painted bolts etc, shock horror I'm 7 bolts short + all the washers, now I was sure that I had everything ready to go, maybe I will find the 7 missing bolts in a year or two, so it was into my supply of bolts to get what I needed washers etc, grit blast them, run them down with tap n die, etch prime undersides painted flat black
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4567_zpskvkgomz1.jpg
then mix a small amount of Deep Bronze Green n hardener spray them all, except one bolt which had to have one side in Gloss Black, it's by itself on the other cardboard
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4569_zpsdetyyvag.jpg
I was able to fit the guard in a fashion with 3 bolts
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/1955%20Series%201%20rebuild/IMG_4568_zpskz1nk5r1.jpg
only to find that I had the wrong colour lense for the turn signal, luckily I have other spares LOL anyway that's been part of my day, cheers Dennis

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Gee its starting to look a bit real,,:cool:

[crackers]

Gee its starting to look a bit real,,:cool:

The bugga's even mown his lawn. Talk about setting high standards :mad:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

isn't that just really nice over spray?:angel:

[crackers]

isn't that just really nice over spray?:angel:

You're right, the cunning old sod, I didn't even suspect it :wasntme:

[Dinty]

Well I have mowed the lawn again LOL and did a 12 hour night shift on Tuesday night/Wednesday, gee that sorta slowed me down a little mainly because of no sleep before or after the shift (38 hours sleep deprivation) but I still managed to half heartedly put some nuts bolts into place to secure the guards, grit blasted two clips to secure the wires from the turn signals
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/887.jpg
I have needed to fit the bonnet stay as I had been using a short piece of softwood, but shock horror, there was only 1 hole in the inner guard, so out with a pair of dividers measure from the top bolt holding the rad/sup panel insitu, transfer that measurement to the outside of the inner (left) guard, make a small scratch mark, then do the same off the bracket (center to center) hopefully holding the dividers in an open hole and scratch a mark across the other, centerpop it drill (1/16' dia) hole check, damn I'm approx. 3/16" too high, no problems as I intended to open the hole out to 17/64", so with judicious use of my 'milwaulkee drill I managed to get it almost in the right place just a slight touch with a round file and the assembley went into place, now I can lift n lock the bonnet up, without fear of bumping the piece of wood I had been using.
All electrics are connected with the exception of the brake circuit, I have checked all brake fittings to make sure they are tight (no leaks) so I guess the next step is to bleed/adjust the brakes, fit a windscreen wiper n get it on club rego
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/888.jpg
yes Digger that's the MMMMMMmmmm gunbuggy next to it cheers Dennis

[digger]

So will you be naming it Dennis?

Bugger,
I dont mean calling it Dennis, I meant will you, Dennis , be giving it a name !!!


Actually, Dennis isnt too bad of a name is it for a s1??

And will you be painting said name on bumper as per your others?

[1950landy]

You have left the hardest job to last , getting the air out of the brakes . Have you got a pressure bleeder??

[Dinty]

I have both pressure & vacuum bleeding systems as well as the good wife operating the pedal, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

Well this morning I had to put 'Op Rubic's Cube' into play yet again to get the Land Rover where I can work on it without any hindrance and use a trolley jack and axle stands
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/771.jpg
here it is waiting in the shade while I park the gunbuggy under the carport, the 3 Land Rovers that had to be moved around + a No5 trailer (with all the covers on it)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/772.jpg
yesterday afternoon I put some brake fluid in the reservoir only to find about 30 minutes later it has leaked out and was pooling on the chassis under the reservoir, so being like a contorsionist I was able to tighten the union nut just a little, thinking that would do the trick, not so, it leaked again overnight.
So the decision was made to get it out so I could access it with ease and use my garage creeper.
Armed with 2 spanners (11/16" & 9/16"AF open enders) I got back underneath it, 11/16" in my left hand, magnetic torch attached to the chassis under the H/brake chassis mount, 9/16" in my right hand and with much oohing n aaahhhing managed to get my reasonably small hands into place and tightened the union nut approx. 1/4 of a turn, I have refilled the reservoir to the top of the pickup in the base of the reservoir and I just waiting to see if that has done the trick
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/773.jpg
all dry when I took the image.
I like the look of the vehicle from the rear, it has a slight lean to starboard lol
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/774.jpg
anyway I think I had best go n check on it now as it's been at least 25 minutes, fingers XXXX'd cheers Dennis

[1950landy]

It will be level once on the road , the road camber will sort that out. If not 1/2"lowering block in L/H side.

[crackers]

She's got what the yanks call 'bachelor's lean' Dinty :D
(Don't tell the missus :angel:)

What's the story with these here Landy brakes? Thread after thread features problems getting the brakes bled and/or leak free. Having pulled one of these daft systems apart, I can understand why bleeding can give issues (really Mr Land Rover, did you design this system after lunch on friday?), but why the repeated issues with leaks?

[JDNSW]

What do you find strange about the brake design? They are, on this one, a perfectly standard 1940s Girling design.

In my experience, I have never had serious* problems with the brakes on any of the Landrovers I have owned over the last fifty years.

I suggest that a lot of the problems stem from unfamiliarity by suppliers, mechanics and owners with drum brakes and the assumptions that are implicit in these brakes and with the changing standards with threads and fittings over the years since these were first made.

John

*Serious = where the solution is not fairly obvious or not easy to apply.

[crackers]

Probably stems from me being used to 1950s and later designs John. The solid pipes to the rear brakes seemed immediately odd, though I can see how it works. That single splitter directing fluid to all four wheels also raised an eyebrow. I'm not scared by drum brakes, having worked with them all my life (modern discs scare me more).

[JDNSW]

Probably stems from me being used to 1950s and later designs John. The solid pipes to the rear brakes seemed immediately odd, though I can see how it works. That single splitter directing fluid to all four wheels also raised an eyebrow. I'm not scared by drum brakes, having worked with them all my life (modern discs scare me more).

I can't see why any of them are odd. Certainly, if you want odd, consider the 1950s design on my first Citroen - no hoses anywhere in the system, O-ring sealed swivels in line with the trailing arm pivots supplied the rear brakes, front brakes inboard discs with coiled steel pipes to take up movement to them, dual braking systems, load proportioning between front and rear, full power operation, zero travel brake pedal, O-rings instead of cups in the wheel cylinders, hand brake on front discs, just to mention a few points.

John

[1950landy]

She's got what the yanks call 'bachelor's lean' Dinty :D
(Don't tell the missus :angel:)

What's the story with these here Landy brakes? Thread after thread features problems getting the brakes bled and/or leak free. Having pulled one of these daft systems apart, I can understand why bleeding can give issues (really Mr Land Rover, did you design this system after lunch on friday?), but why the repeated issues with leaks?

We have the same problems with my brothers Mk 7 Jaguar , Girling brakes. Most brakes with buckets have problems getting the air trapped in the bucket. Brakes with the seals on the pistons do not seam to be as bad

[Dinty]

I did the washing & Ironing today LOL, I washed my 2 Bronze Green S2A's both 88"GS , they got wet n dirty last month during their registration check, the 2 shorties were put away wet n dirty and they looked awful, so early this morning (0500hrs EST) 0600hrs daylight saving time I had moved my 110 and the good wife's car out of the way, Series 1 and No5 military trailer were first out, then another S2A 88"GS (Olive Drab) moved then the 2 Bronze Green were started and driven for a few miles then back home for a wash before it got too hot, here they are all nice n clean
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/653.jpg
while they were out of the shed I took the opportunity to sweep the floor where they stood as a lot of leaf debris had got in with the wild weather we have had over the past few weeks
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/654.jpg
it's just as well these Land Rovers can't talk, because I'm sure these 2 would be whinging about having to stay in the shed while others are having a bit of fun lol.
With the washing out of the way, it was time to start the ironing, that is ironing the problems out of the braking system on my Series 1 which is still under construction,
it has been put up on body stands wheels removed so I can access it without any problems
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/655.jpg
the temperature has climbed up since mid morning it's now 37c outside, the bonnet nearly gave me 1st degree burns when I lifted it to disconnect the battery
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/656.jpg
anyway it's way too hot to be outside, all the metal parts way too hot for me to be fiddling with and my T/A (wife) refuses to come n help, if she keeps this up she will be dismissed lol
here is an image showing 'Charli' our standard Poodle relaxing
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/657.jpg
along with 4 others (Pomeranian, Shetland Sheep dog toy Poodle, Shih tzu) all chillin out in the air conditioning, cheers Dennis

[crackers]

Right. You own half the Land Rovers ever produced... and THERE ARE NO OIL STAINS ON THE CONCRETE :eek:
I'm no expert but I've been assured that this achievement involves black magic, full moons and ladies of a virtuous persuasion. Can you confirm? :angel:

[digger]

Right. You own half the Land Rovers ever produced... and THERE ARE NO OIL STAINS ON THE CONCRETE :eek:
I'm no expert but I've been assured that this achievement involves black magic, full moons and ladies of a virtuous persuasion. Can you confirm? :angel:

Nah, I have two old series unrestored that dont drip any oil at all...

mind you when I refill them this may change :twisted::p

Great work Dennis...

[Dinty]

Well this is not what I wanted to see after filling the brake reservoir with fluid this morning
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/580.jpg
it was leaking from the union nut that supplies fluid to the left front brake cylinder.
I had tightened it last evening hoping that everything would be fine, wrong,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/581.jpg
I couldn't get to it properly but I tried my best at redoing the double flare as I thought maybe the previous owner hadn't gone
down tight enough using the tool that I loaned him (Rigid double flaring tool) so I gave it a go from underneath the vehicle
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/582.jpg
I wasn't happy with the situation so I undid all the floor screws and some of the fittings on the side of the seatbox, so they would not
hinder the floor as it came out
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/583.jpg
then I found another weeping joint
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/584.jpg
with that I disassembled the 'T' junction, ran a 3/8"UNF plug tap in all the orifices, blew it out with compressed air, had another
attempt at redoing the double flare on the pipe for the left front wheel, then re-attached all 4 pipes to the 'T' junction and screwed
them up tight until I replaced the 1/4" bolt that secures the 'T' junction to the chassis, then did them up tight,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/585.jpg
the offending pipe with sign of a leak/weep as yet, fingers XXX'd cheers Dennis
ps see Crackers my land Rovers do leak some fluids LOL gggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

[klonk]

I find the damage to the paint work is more annoying than the fluid leak.

[mick88]

I find the damage to the paint work is more annoying than the fluid leak.


That is a perfectly good reason to use Silicon brake fluid (Dot 5).
It doesn't destroy paint or attract/absorb moisture/water.




Cheers, Mick.

[Dinty]

This morning after having my hair cut (by a professional) I pressured the good wife into helping me with the task, about 10 minutes later the brake pedal is hard about 75mm off the floor, I have let it settle again and will have another go at it tomorrow, so far we have only been depressing the brake pedal, I haven't used any other means to expel the air, cheers Dennis
ps I have conquered the leaks/weeps from union joints etc, no paint has been damaged by any leak, the seat box incurred a scratch (wife let the floor come in contact with it, I couldn't say too much as to remove the floor without help in a Series 1 is nigh on impossible LOL)

[JDNSW]

About three rapid, sudden pumps, and then hold it down until the bleeder is closed, will usually carry most of the air out - if the pedal is slowly pressed, some air is likely to remain.

John

[Marty90]

If the pedal is hard,than chances are you've eliminated the air. You probably need to adjust the brakes.

[JDNSW]

If the pedal is hard,than chances are you've eliminated the air. You probably need to adjust the brakes.

Yes. If pumping gives you a pedal that is not spongy, the problem is not bleeding.

It is likely to be one or more of the following (sort of most likely first):-

Shoes not adjusted properly, perhaps because of adjusters that are worn, stuck or lost their notches and won't stay put.

Shoes not sitting straight - there is an adjustable steady post on Series 1 brakes.

Springs incorrectly assembled or stretched

Shoes not radiused to match drums

Shoes not moving freely on anchors and pistons

Wrong parts.

Drums out of round or tapered.

Probably a few more things I have not thought of as well!

[Dinty]

I'm still at a standstill with my brakes. About a week or so ago, I bled the system, that task was fairly straight forward and no problems encountered, until I removed the rhs front brake drum just to refresh my mind on which way the cam adjuster turned etc.
Anyway being the looney that I am, with my mind doing 20 things at once I went away from the vehicle for some time, when I returned I thought I would just check to see if I still had a reasonable brake pedal, and I did, and again I went off at a tangent coming back about 1 hour later, noticing a large fluid loss under the rhs brake assembly, shock horror I had depressed the brake pedal without the drum, so I had popped out the piston n rubber for the trailing shoe (as they have no return spring), anyway I managed to put it back in but the damage to the lip seal and it would not seal under pressure.
So off to another local brake place they fussed about and came up with a? suitable replacement, so on returning home it was fitted.
Well yesterday evening after working for 5 hours in the heat up on the garage roof n kids cubby house cutting down palm fronds (the ones with the ragged sharp spikes on them)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/379.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/380.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/381.jpg
I checked on the rhs front brake assembly only to find the smallest of weeps, damn,,,...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/382.jpg
and now I think I know why it's weeping, the seal (bucket) whatever is smaller in width? by at least 1mm maybe more
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/383.jpg
the one on the left is the one I recklessly damaged, the other is a spare replacement, so if my usual brake service is open I will be going there this morning, cheers Dennis

[Pedro_The_Swift]

What are you doing growing palms on the garage roof??

[Dinty]

I didn't but I had to get up there to get a height advantage, the damn tree is 50' high, LOL cheers Dennis
ps it just goes to show my 31 year old 110 ain't no 'Toorak tracta' lol,,.

[1950landy]

The best thing to do with palm trees is take the whole tree to the dump.

[mick88]

The best thing to do with palm trees is take the whole tree to the dump.







A "Glyphosate Infusion" fixed ours! ;)


Cheers, Mick.

[Dinty]

Not to waste time just because it's hot, that to me sometimes means a great day for painting small things, like the crank handle in Gloss Black,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/303.jpg
the other item a propeller shaft needed a clean up n paint job so it happened as well, almost a 'baked enamel' finish @ 38c LOL.
The palm trees have to stay as they belong to the good wife, so I won't be doing anything with them except clean up after them, thanks for all the suggestions though, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I have been a little slack/pre-occupied with other things just lately, I had painted the jack handle and mounted it behind the seats
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/113.jpg
and yes it does fit through the front bar and engages the starter dog, damned if I could crank start it though LOL.
The rest of the time I have revisited my 5" gauge live steam locomotive, it has sat forlornly in the shed for more than 20 years without any care/maintenance, it looked so sad, the reason I made a move on it, the loco ended up in the background of an image I had posted elsewhere, and the request for more images/info etc led me just for old times sake, to push it along the track, shock horror the wheels were locked solid, panic set in, so out with the BA spanner sets, removing the front cylinder covers expecting the worst, but both sides were clean n dry, no sign of why it would be nipped up, I had to find out why n needed room to work.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/114.jpg
My wife allowed me to use her doggie grooming table, set up in the back room with the loco on it as there is very little room to move in the shed n the lighting is not good either,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/115.jpg
so I moved the 1/2Ton platform trailer then took the boiler off the frame, and carried the loco & smoke box up into the house
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/116.jpg
I have removed the connecting rods on both sides, and was able to tap both rh/lh pistons back into the cylinders, so I assumed that the problem was elsewhere, the wheels were now free to rotate, (as I had thought it may have slipped an eccentric) my attention turned to the crossheads
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/117.jpg
and I was correct, the rhs crosshead was binding when the piston was fully forward, anyway to cut a long story short, I found that the slide bar was tight when the Xhead was fully forward, after taking some measurements I packed the slide bar with .006 thickness brass shim that fixed it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/118.jpg
I was pleased that I found the problem also adding to it was the fact that it hadn't moved in such a long time it had gummed up, but that has been resolved now as the next image shows, working on about 50psi of air pressure (air pressure has no expansion qualities like super heated steam)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/119.jpg
here are 2 clips, the first is running in reverse gear
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LvUXLw6k1Y
now running in full forward gear, you can just hear the exhaust beats, but as the air pressure drops off the motion gear slows & stops abruptly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FKw8tWYqyI
anyway that's been my time over the past few days, and it has been raining so not good weather to be playing with Land Rovers, cheers Dennis

[Lionelgee]

Hello Dinty,

I have been watching the news and parts of Dungog has been reported as experiencing or at threat of flooding. I hope you come through the experience unscathed.

Also that no members are effected by the Raymond Terrace floods. Stay well and safe.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[1950landy]

Hi Dennis,
I hope you & your Rovers are not getting foot rot with all that water down there.
Wayne

[Dinty]

It has been very wet down here, the Series 1 had it's front right wheel in about 4" of water for a few days, not as much rainfall as last April (140mm's) but enough for me to be down the shed late at night taking items out of low cupboards/shelves etc, the depression seems to have moved out to sea, it has been sunny/windy here today, which helps dry the ground out a little.
The only items that I need to do to the S1 are find a suitable horn and fit some split pins to the tie-rod ends, and get it on club rego, and as you can see I have been fiddling with my 5" gauge loco again, anyway cheers Dennis

[1950landy]

I will have a look & see if I have any S1 horns in the parts I got from Kev. If I have it will have your name on it if you need one. won't be until next week before I can check .

[Dinty]

It has been 3 weeks since I have done anything to the Series 1, today (a big job lol) ratting through my supply of assorted screws etc., I selected 10 to be grit blasted, but before starting that job I thought I should drain the tank on the compressor, so with very little air pressure in the tank I undid the bung, and nothing came out, so I started the compressor and shock horror the amount of filthy water etc., I flashed around grabbing all manner of cloth to soak up the filth, what a shocker.
Anyway after that small diversion I grit blasted the 10 screws
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/21.jpg
etch primed/painted gloss black
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/22.jpg
they are now insitu doing what they were manufactured for
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/23.jpg
and down on the bulkhead
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/24.jpg
the data plates came from the Series 1 club, a chap over there got them for me, we did a swap with a few small items I will be getting the chassis ID plate after the vehicle is registered, anyway hopefully that will happen very soon, cheers Dennis

[1950landy]

Dennis , Horn is on it's way.
Wayne

[Dinty]

Yesterday was crunch time, registration check, thankfully everything was as it should be and the club inspectors passed the Land Rover.
Today I took myself down to the local RMS and $94.00 later I had a set of plates, now to find some short lengths of flat bar to mount the plates on, I might even get it out and have a drive over the weekend sometime, if so I will take a few snaps, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

After applying 'Op Rubics Cube' I managed to get the vehicle out of it's confinement and down the driveway without incident, out onto the street a short trip to the roundabout then back past home and around the block without incident (although I did see a Black cat LOL) away I have found the steering heavy, so I will have to look into that being a SWB it rides like a dray it has new gas shock absorbers or maybe it is just my 43 years of nursing (multiple back problems), it will need a tune up although it seemed to run OK, anyway here is a short clip while it was out n running free before I put it back into confinement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Os77E8acazw
cheers Dennis

[Landy Smurf]

Congratulations on another fine Land Rover project :thumbsup:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Awesome finished product Dennis:clap2:

[klonk]

Excellent job, done and dusted.

[Dinty]

It is going to have an appointment with Murray Rumbel @ Modern Motors Dungog as soon as I can arrange it, it appears to be running reasonably well, but I want it touched by some-one who knows what they are about, cheers and Thank you for the compliments, Dennis

[JDNSW]

Looking good, and I would have thought that you knew what you are about?

John

[Dinty]

John, I can get it to run and sound really good, but with my useless eyesight n hearing a few bucks in Murrays pocket suits me just fine, then I'll know it is all A1, cheers Dennis

[digger]

Dinty,

I'd gladly be satisfied with the holy touch of The Dalai Dinty.

I'd be tickled pink to know that DINTYS DIGITS had been all over any car I owned! This is why Ive let you hold onto my MMMM GUNBUGGY MMM so long.:twisted:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Next time you take your mmmmGUNBUGGYmmmm out Digger, let me know beforehand and I'll come over and wash it.;)

[Dinty]

Well after a big day yesterday up early off to a car show etc., drive home from the show walking like a half shut pocket knife, get in the 110 drive back to Seaham borrow my mates big bogie box trailer drive back home, reverse it into the yard, up early this morning after a very uncomfortable night (back ache++) move the 110/trailer out onto the street start Series 1 get up on trailer, head off to Dungog and the 'Home' of Land Rover in the Hunter Valley
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/731.jpg
it all looks secure from the rear, (not needing any attention from the lads)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/732.jpg
I stopped a few times along the way to check that nothing had come loose, this green thing was tailgating a bit though
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/733.jpg
I have arrived @ the 'Home' of Land Rover Modern Motors
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/295.jpg
maybe home later in the week, depending on the triage mechanic's LOL cheers Dennis

[Disco-tastic]

Dinty she looks so, so sweet. Youve done a fantastic job. In fact, this is the main thread that has made me want to get a series!

I do find it a little ironic and amusing that you're taking it to "modern" motors :p

Cheers

Dan

[Dinty]

Dan, I've been going to 'Modern Motors' since 1968 or there-abouts, I can strip down a vehicle and put it back together painted n all, but with my vision issue (from a blunt eye injury way back in the 90's I have a problem with focal levels damn nuisance) and no-one here in Cessnock would want to have anything to do with it, I trust Murray Rumbel with it and I'm sure that it will be running even better than I had it running, and that garage was known as the 'Home' of Land Rovers in the Hunter Valley anyway cheers Dennis
ps and I forgot to add you have to be able to hear as well as see to tune an engine and I'm at a loss in both departments LOL,,.

[Disco-tastic]

Haha in no way was i knocking your decision, or ability. Way, way beyond my own. It was more the title of the business, particularly with your green shorty out front, that made me laugh :)

Cheers

Dan

[Lionelgee]

Haha in no way was i knocking your decision, or ability. Way, way beyond my own. It was more the title of the business, particularly with your green shorty out front, that made me laugh :)

Cheers

Dan


Hello Dinty and Dan,

Just a suggestion that with the build date of your damn fine vehicle being a Series 1, manufactured in 1955 the concept of the business name "Modern Motors"; as in 21st century seems a little incongruous or a bit of a misnomer. :D

My only concern is that with your Series 1 registered and motoring stately, you might not get another "project" and I could not follow your excellent restorations for around 70 pages of superb and inspirational information.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Dinty]

Well, I have the word that my S1 has been getting the treatment (tune up etc.,) as it has been moved from the showroom to the workshop today, so maybe I will get it back tomorrow or Friday, wish me luck LOL cheers Dennis

[digger]

I would have thought you would be well into Operation Rubics Cube in your rear yard leading up to Anzac Day!

Great job on the S1 mate!

[Dinty]

My Series 1 had been taken to Dungog New South Wales about 6 weeks back for a tune up, it went to the 'Spiritual' home of Land Rovers in the Hunter Valley region where I live
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/295.jpg
the owner Murray liked it that much he put it in the small showroom and that's where it stayed until yesterday, I did tell Murray that I was in no great rush for the job to be done, anyway a phone call yesterday to say the job was complete, so we headed off this afternoon.
I found it sitting in the workshop just waiting for me
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/296.jpg
I had taken 20 lt's of fuel with my special mix, started it up and away we went.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/297.jpg
that's a 55mph shadow LOL
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/298.jpg
I had promised my mate Gordon (who I purchased the vehicle from back in 2013 the first drive so here he is
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/299.jpg
we changed drivers at East Maitland as I wanted to drive it in the heavier traffic
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/300.jpg

the traffic on Flat road was non existent but 1.6k's further on the New England hwy it was a different matter especially on a Thursday night and the time being 1750hrs, anyway we arrived home safely, and it's now tucked under the carport so the Flying Fox's cant crap on it, cheers Dennis
PS Digger 'OP Rubic's Cube' is well under way, believe me I cannot wait for Monday afternoon around 1500hrs, it can't come quick enough,,.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

That shadow pic at 55 is a classic Dennis!!
:cool::cool::cool::cool:

[Dinty]

Thanks Pedro, seeing you liked the image here is an 18 second clip somewhere between Dungog & Clarencetown NSW, cheers Dennis
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iad3lF2kiFM
I love watching shadows they are very creative,,.

[digger]

Special fuel mix???

When you get a chance do tell....

[klonk]

Special fuel mix???



That fuel must be really good Looking at the gauges. Runs on the smell of an oily rag.

Good job.

[JDNSW]

Or the fuel gauge doesn't work!

John

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Plug chop? :lol2:

[Dinty]

That is one of 3 faults that I have found since picking it up last Thursday evening, the Hi-beam warning light, fuel gauge, no light behind dual oil/water gauge, but they are on hold until a day or so after the 25th, way too much to do, so little time to do it, and add the bloody miserable wet weather, my 110 down with no muffler, batteries x 2 out cleaning n repainting battery box, but I will get to them in due course, anyone with s88t loads of free time most welcome LOL cheers Dennis

[Pedro_The_Swift]

You need to move closer to AULRO HQ,,
Plenty of help up here,, and its even further away from digger!!:D

[Dinty]

Gee Pedro, I dunno how to answer that one, Digger has been in touch today and asked to give his 'spy' a pat etc., his spy is our Sheltie known as 'Max', if only I lived closer I would be involved in lots of activities in and around the area, but down here I'm a one man band, cheers n thanks for the invite to join you lot in Qld, cheers Dennis

[digger]

You need to move closer to AULRO HQ,,
Plenty of help up here,, and its even further away from digger!!:D

Memo to self.

Pedro OFF Christmas list

[Dinty]

Here I am sitting here trapped by these inconsiderate individuals who have had their time in the sun
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/42.jpg
just for Digger LOL cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

This essential item arrived today from the UK
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/796.jpg
it's now fitted cheers Dennis

[B.S.F.]

What kind of proof, if any, did you have to provide to get the number stamped?.
.W.

[Dinty]

I copied my drivers license and the registration papers, sent them in an email to a friend in the UK, as he owed me a favour or two for the Ozzie Land Rover badges I got for him, I'm a forum user in the Series 1 site but not a paid up member, my friend is a paid up member, so I guess you could email the club shop and go from there, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

Dabbling with a little DBG today, sprayed the inside of the spare for the vehicle
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/461.jpg
and NO the little dog is not stuck to the painted rim, I will allow to dry n harden then paint the front maybe Thursday depending on the weather, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I haven't attempted any work on the Series 1 in months, (bought a new lathe etc.,) anyway with the cold weather and way too cold to be in the shed on some days, I placed the rear PTO assembly in my parts washer, I opened the oil drain bungs and filled it with diesel and have let it soak for a few days as it's very tight ? seized.
It's raining here today so I decided to try and get the right angle drive section into pieces to inspect any damage/rust that may have built up over the years from neglect/sitting out in the open up in the Armidale region of NSW.
Well the nuts etc., came undone without too much fuss, not like the trouble I had separating the right angle drive from the main body some time, anyway here is an image partially dismantled
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1092.jpg
I couldn't turn the bevel shaft at first, but some help from a large screwdriver moved it quite easily, and in no time it was spinning freely, a sharp blow with a brass hammer and it was in bits
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1093.jpg
babysitting duties made me cut short the time spent as the wife had to attend a school function, so that put paid to that, anyway it started to rain again and I was getting wet, I need 2 seals, wash out the housing, clean the alloy casing and re-assemble it, cheers Dennis

[mick88]

Looks like a good project for a rainy day.
Who actually made the right angle drives? Were they a Land Rover part or was it Fairey or some other company?
Dennis what solvent do you normally use in your parts washer, it looks sparkling clean as do the parts you have washed up.


Cheers, Mick.

[JDNSW]

They are Rover parts, sold through dealers and with Landrover part numbers, but I suspect they were made for Rover by someone else. (As were many other parts of the vehicle)

John

[Dinty]

As John has stated above, I have only found serial numbers in 2 locations, I suspect that the seal sizes might be the same as some early Land Rover ones the numers on 2 seals that I have removed are 275124, but so far a part number search through Blanchards came up with zulch LOL, so I will have to try
and source them through the local bearing service.
As to the parts washer, I have used mainly 'supercheap' brand of detergent, but a word of caution "Don't leave" the solution in the washer for any extended llength of time, as the water content evaporates quickly leaving behind a sludgey mess, at the moment is has diesel fuel in it, and I don't know whether I would use the 240V pump with the fuel in there, it works well with the stuff from supercheap, anyway it's still raining here on/off so I'm off to a supplier of model engineering materials, too many jobs on the go, my mind is cluttered with this n that cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

Well after a bit of cross eyed checking between part numbers in the parts catalogues between Series 1 &S2/2A, I had been looking for the number stamped into the old oil seal 275124, now my instincts told me that why would you have a oil seal not compatible with other oil seals on the Land Rover, and after looking through the Series 1 parts book I cross matched 217507 and guess what, they are 'diff/pinion oil seals' that is going to make the job a little less costly as I would have them in the shed, but I will have to shell out for an expensive 'speedi-sleeve for the pinion driving seal shaft.
But the drama didn't end with that as the 2 oil seals in the PTO drive section have different part numbers grrrr!!! they are 217508, no listing anywhere Blanchards website shows them as a part number but no price, hat tells me no stock, so that will be a bearing service job, as usual one step forwards 3 backwards, cheers Dennis

[JDNSW]

The parts are listed in the Series 2a/3 optional equipment parts book.

John

[1950landy]

We use kero in our Super Cheap parts washer the 240v pump hasn!t given us any trouble , it's aboiut 10 years old. Kero makes your hands & cloths smell for a couple of days.:mad:
We,ve got twin grand daughter today & tomorrow , wanted to do L/R things tomorrow at the HoHa,s. Have to do it another time.

[Dinty]

While I'm waiting for a 0.020" thick HSS slitting saw to arrive & the carburetor off 114-194 to be rebuilt @ Allcarb Newcastle, I fired up the compressor and grit blasted a few of the items off the PTO, they went underwater in the flood of 2015, some before n after bits
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1044.jpg
blew all the dust off, etch primed painted in Gloss Black
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1045.jpg
the alloy parts and other bits are still soaking in diesel, hopefully it will allow me to get all the hard oil stained dirt off them soon, cheers Dennis
ps the slitting saw is to cut a 20 thou slit in some mild steel ( a jig) to a depth the same width as the spring steel I'm using to make leaf springs
for my 5" gauge live steam loco, it will a device to make sure the spring steel is drilled in the correct place and with consistency, I just hope
I don't break it as it's going to cost $63.00 eeeeekkkk!!!!.

[Dinty]

This morning I took the PTO drive to pieces, the drive flange was not in good order, the area where the seal runs on is rusted n pitted, the brain kicks in here as the drive flange looks a like the output flange (front wheel drive) on the T/case, check parts book and they are the same, I soon found a very good replacement in amongst my stuff, the seal is also a common Land Rover seal as well.
The steel bits were put through the grit blaster and have been etch primed/painted, seal added to the cover plate, I will re-assemble it tomorrow.
The pulley was put through the grit blast cabinet, all was going well, when ??? something has either blocked the grit pick up tube, or some other issue is causing the malfunction, so i had to shut down the operation, needless to say the neighbours would have been pleased as it is noisey.
My wife had to use the rattle gun whilst I held a square blade screwdriver with a 200mm adjustable spanner on the shaft of said screwdriver, to undo the 6 countersunk screws which hold the splined collar into the pulley, I can tell you that was damned hard work, very hard on the wrists (when your old LOL) anyway all in pieces, 3/8" BSF tap through the nuts, but I don't have a 3/8" BSF die/die nut to run over the threads on the Csk screws, ? maybe when I go to pick up the Solex carburetor and the slitting saw, the company supplying the saw might have that item in stock, as they do carry a very comprhensive range of taps/dies etc.,, anyway the rain shut me down again, cheers Dennis

[harry]

This morning I took the PTO drive to pieces, the drive flange was not in good order, the area where the seal runs on is rusted n pitted, the brain kicks in here as the drive flange looks a like the output flange (front wheel drive) on the T/case, check parts book and they are the same, I soon found a very good replacement in amongst my stuff, the seal is also a common Land Rover seal as well.
The steel bits were put through the grit blaster and have been etch primed/painted, seal added to the cover plate, I will re-assemble it tomorrow.
The pulley was put through the grit blast cabinet, all was going well, when ??? something has either blocked the grit pick up tube, or some other issue is causing the malfunction, so i had to shut down the operation, needless to say the neighbours would have been pleased as it is noisey.
My wife had to use the rattle gun whilst I held a square blade screwdriver with a 200mm adjustable spanner on the shaft of said screwdriver, to undo the 6 countersunk screws which hold the splined collar into the pulley, I can tell you that was damned hard work, very hard on the wrists (when your old LOL) anyway all in pieces, 3/8" BSF tap through the nuts, but I don't have a 3/8" BSF die/die nut to run over the threads on the Csk screws, ? maybe when I go to pick up the Solex carburetor and the slitting saw, the company supplying the saw might have that item in stock, as they do carry a very comprhensive range of taps/dies etc.,, anyway the rain shut me down again, cheers Dennis

re the having to tap the nuts, a cheap item we use is a thread file, it has many different thread pitches and is available in most of the thread types.
can do internal and external threads.
try blackwoods.

[Dinty]

I have a thread file but I prefer dies cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I was talking with the club registrar last evening and he had a 3/8" BSF die nut, so this morning I borrowed it to clean the threads on the C'sk screws
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/956.jpg
and in the background is my 'thread file' just to show other users what it is if they have never heard or seen one before, this one is for external threads i.e. bolts etc., the file is square and has 8 different TPI's on it (threads per inch) 3/8"BSF is 20 TPI, anyway a quick lick with some etch primer/gloss black paint
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/957.jpg
while waiting for the paint to dry, I re-assembled the PTO drive unit
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/958.jpg
well that's been part of my day, in between showers of rain, cheers Dennis

[digger]

As usual great work,

This mob seem to have knowledge and parts for ptos etc.
http://www.lr-winches.com/Parts/Power_Take_Off_Units/Series_PTO/


Max tells me... I mean, I've heard that things are a bit crowded there... Well, if things are crowded there I could look after one of the cars, say a swb, with maybe shortened rear corners and maybe a split windscreen and maybe angled guards... If you have anything fitting that description I'd be willing to pop over and move it out of your way ... I can leave now...


Cheers

[Dinty]

Today I started to re-assemble the right hand drive part, putting all the 1/4" studs etc., that screwed out when I dismantled it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/867.jpg
bit the bullet and stripped the main part of the PTO, it came apart fairly easily just have to remember which spacers go where
anyway P/bucket is still not playing the game cheers Dennis
ps 12 hours later here it is stripped bare
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/868.jpg

[Dinty]

A poor effort today, as I have done my shoulder in, the issue has been steadily getting worse over the past few weeks anyway an ultrasound found the root cause, so it's light duties for a period of time, but I managed to clean this up and etch prime and make a start on painting it black
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/771.jpg
anyway cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

Not much happening here, between U/S directed steroid injection, and my SVT flying pr220, but before all that happened I managed to get this bit re-assembled
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/525.jpg
anyway cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I was up early this morning to get this little gem ready for the local 'Long Tan' comemmoration here in Aberdare, a quick spruce up and she was ready to go, taken to the event by 2 very trusted mates
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/506.jpg
and from another angle
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/507.jpg
I still wasn't 100% so I had asked my mates to do this for the veteran community.
I stayed home as I said and fiddled with the drum pulley, assembled the drive collar
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/508.jpg
then fiddled the pulley onto the splined shaft and tensioned it up
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/509.jpg
cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I had this story written then some crap website clamped me (winreward) **&&^%$# not happy, so here are a few images and B/A words
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/227.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/228.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/229.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/230.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/231.jpg
all finished
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/232.jpg
cheers grumpy aka Dennis

[Disco-tastic]

Wow dennis they look a little different to when you started... great work as always!

[Dinty]

Well, I fitted the PTO to the rear of the chassis this morning, I had intentions of going to the All British Day in Sydney but other unforseen things got in the way, so you just keep going doing what you have too, I couldn't get the right angle drive pulley to mate up, it's also damn heavy as well
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/203.jpg
I know why I couldn't mate it, the splines were not in alignment, so after a few attempts I put it back in the shed.
After lunch and a new battery (well 2 new batteries @ $400.00 4 the pair) I decided to take it for a short run out into the local bush, I went along the Pelton fire trail to the old signal box (ruins)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/204.jpg
the signal box was still in use up to the mid 60's, it had a junction about 300 yards down from the box, where the line branched off one to Kalingo, the other line serviced 3 mines Paxton/Maitland Main/Millfield, this was part of the famed South Maitland Railway which criss crossed the area where I live, I can still remember 10 class SMR Loco's hauling non-air hoppers through the bush, all the lines have been removed by the scrappies years ago, the signal box had a 200 yard refuge right next to it, as the line was very busy in it's heyday anyway a few more snaps of the Land Rover
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/205.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/206.jpg
it is now back in my neighbour's garage, I'm hoping my mate Gordon who I bought it off, will make some room in his shed as he told me he would have it back just to look at on a daily basis, anyway that's been most of my Sunday, cheers Dennis

[klonk]

A trip to the bush in a land rover is always better than a trip to the city.

Looks good ,Well done

Cheers Steve

[Dinty]

I'm sure I had said that it rides like a 'dray' and kills my lower back, well I decided to take a look at the rear springs.
Another day another set of tasks, I had retrieved my Series 2 C/R Land Rover on Wednesday relocating it here at our home we now have 10 Land Rovers here + wife's car 3 ex-mil trailers and our camper trailer, it's tight LOL, anyway to work safely I put the Series 1 under the carport attached to the house
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/308.jpg
I had placed it on stands just forward of the front eyes rear springs and have removed the split pins from the shock absorbers, it took me about 40 minutes and I had both springs off, when the left spring came off, the diff/housing moved slightly to the left and rearwards damn
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/309.jpg
the Series 1 springs are on the left, the others will be going under the rear of my S2 C/R soon
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/303.jpg
but I'm a one man band here and my age is telling me with sore arms/shoulders lower back etc but if I don't do it well you know
the 3/8" nuts were seized, I applied some heat but it did nothing to alleviate the situation, so out with a very sharp cold chisel and I split the nuts x 2
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/310.jpg
at some point in it's distant past some dimwit did this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/311.jpg
that added extra time using my 5" angle grinder (Metabo) with a thin 1mm disc I releived some of the welds and then hit them with cold chisel
that finished it off, apply heat to the tabs and bend them back, with a G clamp holding them together, I needn't bothered as they were stuck on
the center bolt
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/312.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/313.jpg
a few sharp blows with a 2 hammers the heavy one like a dolly under the spring the other to hit the spring, I soon had them separated
rust and ****e everywhere
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/314.jpg
in my mind it's no damn wonder it rode like a dray, the springs would not work as they should with all that crap on them, anyway when the washing has dried on the clothes line, I will be into it using the angle grinder with a flap disc, cheers Dennis

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I have seen leafs greased, collected, and wrapped in hessian of all things to go racing,,
I understand this was a daily(every time possible) exercise,, :angel:

[1950landy]

I was talking to a truck driver about greasing springs & he said they dont grease springs because it causes the springs to brake. In saying that the P3 Rovers springs were packed in grease with leather shesves on them. When I pulled the rear springs out of my P3 & cleaned them they were like new steel.

[JDNSW]

With the spring clamps welded to the top leaf, no wonder it rode like a dray! Forget about the rust.

I used to be against greasing springs because it attracts dust, resulting in more rapid wear but I am now convinced that it is the way to go.

Traditionally, trucks were not fitted with shock absorbers, relying entirely on interleaf friction for damping. This being the case, greasing these springs could certainly lead to broken leaves. But as far as I know, all trucks today have hydraulic dampers.

I have several old (1920s-1940s) books on mechanicing, and they all have sections on how to grease or oil your spring leaves.

John

[Dinty]

There was only one spring clamp welded, 3 of them are very ordinary, I feel like **** this morning and have been run over by a bus LOL, anyway cheers Dennis

[mick88]

The joys of crawling around under motor cars aye Denis.
I know the feeling well, or at least my knees do!
I often feel the same way, like I have played chicken with the Indian Pacific, then think maybe I should just start collecting stamps.
But then I come to my senses.


Cheers, Mick.

[Dinty]

I'm still not anywhere near 95%, but pushing myself along,like I sometimes say 'another day another set of tasks' so with that in mind I took myself down to the local steel supplier to get the materials
that I would need to make rivets and clamping straps
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/286.jpg
next was to remove the old straps and knock out the rivets
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/287.jpg
then take a rough measurement of the holes in the springs and straps and come to a happy medium with the rivets, after grinding
the rivet flush I knocked it out, so the rivet diameter ended being 0.406" or 13/32".
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/288.jpg
here is the first rivet I turned up, the shaft was 1/2" in length the head diameter was also 1/2", it fitted like the proverbial
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/289.jpg
the rivet before fitting, it has a 20deg taper on the head as well
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/290.jpg
The next strap was knackered as this was the one that had been welded to the spring, so some measurements were taken and
checked again as I have no trade skills and I didn't want to stuff it up, here is the second rivet and half of the strap LOL
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/291.jpg
after heating and bending the 25 x 5 flat bar and drilling a 13/32" hole in it a quick check to make sure everything is in alignment
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/292.jpg
then with my T/A aka wife LOL using the Oxy/acetylene to heat the rivet end, when red hot I had two hammers a large ball pein
and a brass faced hammer, three hits re-apply the heat and repeat until the desired mushroom shape has appeared
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/293.jpg
the underside it all looks very neat, was still very hot when image was taken, but it has cooled now and it's all very tight,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/294.jpg
anyway
that's been my day, I must be coming down with something as I have absolutely no energy, and I still have to make 2 center bolts 2 1/8" long x 3/8"UNF anyway cheers Dennis

[Disco-tastic]

The next strap was knackered as this was the one that had been welded to the spring, so some measurements were taken and
checked again as I have no trade skills and I didn't want to stuff it up...

Ahhh your telling porkies again Dennis! Not everyone can just knock up a rivet in their backyard!!!

Great work as always [emoji106]

Dan

[Lionelgee]

Ahhh your telling porkies again Dennis! Not everyone can just knock up a rivet in their backyard!!!

Great work as always [emoji106]

Dan

G'day Dan,

I agree with you, Dan about Dinty - he has more artisan skills than a lot of tradespeople can hope for. The only thing you do not have Dennis are pieces of paper obtained from TAFE.

I think if you took a portfolio of your work and the steam engine to a TAFE college you could get Recognition of Prior Learning for more than one trade.

Let's see: Auto electrics, Fitting and Machining, Mechanical engineering and spray painting. No doubt a couple of others too.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Dinty]

many thanks for the kind words Lionel, but I still class myself as a rank amateur, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

It's another week and I'm still weak, picked up some bug late last week it has hit hard, even though I had 'Flu Vax' some months ago, I didn't get to the Land Rover Expo in Sydney we were both too crook to embark on a 2.5 hour journey (one way) and spread our whatever we had around so we stayed home, all
I managed to get done was make these 2 rivets
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/172.jpg
it took me all my time just to concentrate, so I packed up and sat n watched TV, how bloody boring.
Anyway feeling slightly better or pushing myself along (more like it) I took a drive to Edgeworth to pick up some new center bolts given to me by my mate John Tarren, feeling good about not having to make them, but that didn't last, the bolts were just a tad too long and the threaded section didn't match what I needed, and I didn't have a 3/8"BSF die to run the thread down, adding to that I haven't mastered how to change the gearing on my new lathe to cut Imperial threads (my old lathe is currently down damn) so I made a start on making my own custom bolts
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/173.jpg
I used a die to cut the thread 3/8"UNF then part it off
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/174.jpg
the old n the new
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/175.jpg
I still had to make a spring wrap that didn't take long
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/176.jpg
using my home made anvil
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/177.jpg
it didn't take long with my wife holding the spring and the heat, and me swinging the hammer.
I greased the leaves and using a big G cramp pulled the leaves together, etch primed it and painted it black, it is next to the vehicle
and hopefully will be fitted in the morning
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/178.jpg
meanwhile the RHS spring had to come to bitz, it was just as rusty as the other
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/179.jpg
and this spring seemed to have an abundance of media grit most likely 0.9 grit stuck between the leaves, and on every leaf it was the same
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/180.jpg
anyway it has all been flap sanded etc and I'm happy to say I don't have to make anymore rivets or wrap arounds as they are all tight
but I will have to make another center bolt, hopefully I'm feeling a lot better in the morning, anyway cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

Sadly no change in my overall condition still crook, my throat feels like it's on fire, anyway I made another center bolt
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/128.jpg
and that had it's own problems later, I greased the individual leaves and using a couple of clamps pulled them in and fitted the new center bolt, the spring
was etch primed/painted gloss black
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/129.jpg
it was allowed to dry then after lunch I moved what gear I thought I would need to get the job done, being a 'Geriatric' and having worked as a Reg/nurse for almost 50 years I do suffer with a few issues, so to make life a bit easier I gathered all this gear to help me fit the springs
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/130.jpg
the dolly is to move the spring into position, but you are on your side on the creeper, and the spring has to be eased under the diff/housing, and hope it doesn't slip sideways while doing it, offer up the front eye and secure with a shackle bolt, then lift the spring to ease the jack under it to jack it up high enough so the rear eye can hook up with the shackle plates, then fit the U-bolt spring plate on the jack and ease it up into place, SHOCK/HORROR
when I put the wear plate into position the new center bolt was only 1/8" above it, I had forgot to add this thickness + a little more to the dimensions of the new bolt
well annoyed I was :mad: but I thought as this is only a trial to see if this remedial work on the springs improved the ride, it is not a big job to replace
the bolt after I have made 2 more with bigger head LOL, anyway here's a geriatric's eye view of trying to get the spring under the diff
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/131.jpg
I refitted the shock absorbers, I wasn't going too but I bounced it up n down and it was way too soft without them, so I refitted them using my special tool that I made years ago, here is an old image of it in use, saves a lot of swearing etc,.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/132.jpg
anyway I took it for a short drive, the suspension is much smoother but still firm, I suspect that is because of the 'Gabriel' Gas shocks all round, one thing is for sure, I'm knackered LOL cheers Dennis:(

[Dinty]

My wife took me to the big smoke Newcastle LOL via Edgeworth, where I returned the center bolts that my mate John T had given me but I couldn't use them, so I made my own and subsequently had to make 2 more, that task was achieved this morning early and when it just has to be 0.375" LOL
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/96.jpg
and a little while later they both looked like this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/97.jpg
we went down to Newcastle as my mate John had given me 4 new U-bolts 7/16"BSF, he didn't have and 7/16"BSF hex nuts so I went to Newcastle Hi-Tensile
and bought 8 nuts and 8 square section spring washers, when my overall condition improves I will change over the center bolts and U-bolts, but the weather here is about to go south, with a few days of heavy rain, so I might have to wait a few daze, anyway cheers Dennis:)
ps while in Newcastle I went to a big hobby shop where I purchased several lengths of 20 & 22 SWG wire, so if it does rain as predicted, I will be gainfully employed in the shed making compression springs for the tie bars on the pony truck of my live steamer,,.

[mick88]

A bit of precision turning there Denis!
Well done.
It's good to see people who can think outside the square, be creative, improvise, and overcome problems.
It is the posts like yours that makes AULRO the great site it is.


Cheers, Mick.

[Dinty]

Without trying to sound like a 'malingerer' I'm still crook with Influenza A and my right shoulder, so I dosed up on Paracetamol & Ibuprofen this morning so I could attack the rear springs again on my Series 1, you might remember that I made new center bolts and the head height was way too small so I made 2 more and I needed to fit them and the new U bolts, so after giving the medication a few hours to kick in, I went for it, as it is supposed to rain tomorrow
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/804.jpg
out with the new useless one LOL and replaced them both with the 'bigger head'
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/805.jpg
I'm now feeling the effects of the job, actually it almost took longer to get all the gear needed to do the job than it actually took to do the job LOL
anyway that's been part of my day, cheers Dennis :)
ps While waiting for the meds to kick in, I recieved a 'facetime' call from a mate in San Diego USA, he has a ex Australian 109"GS and from what he tells me I think he has broken the layshaft in the G/box, not an uncommon thing, anyway he asked me to put together some points on how to get the thing apart etc, I managed to get it all together in a 17 point step by step with photo's etc, but my stupid computer ate the email, I still have it but I can't send it or open for some silly damn reason, gawd I hate the computer at times LOL so I guess I will have to do it all again

[Cobber]

There has been some great progress here! I've got some reading to do to catch up on this! :D

Full credit it to you, what I've seen so far is terrific and I'm enjoying reading your comments on each bit. Keep up the good work :BigThumb:

[Dinty]

I was checking the Land Rover underneath a few days before we went to Cairns
and I was surprised to feel an oily slick on the inside of the right rear wheel rim, at first I thought it was brake fluid but it wasn't, twas gear oil, damn wasn't the word I used but it was 4 letters, oil seal could be faulty, but I thought lets check the diff/breather first, so armed with a 5/16"W ring/set I crawled under and removed it, on closer inspection the breather hole was blocked with red dirt and it didn't rattle, so knock it apart was the order of the day, but that had to wait until today Friday 21/10/16.
The tools needed to knock them apart are a small socket that the hex will sit on the edge, small hammer and a pin punch
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/272.jpg
when you have tapped out the ball and bung they are trapped in the socket and can't get away as they always seem too, no wonder it wouldn't work, look at the crud
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/273.jpg
I cleaned the ball (it's a 1/4"dia ball) with 600 grit wet/dry, put a couple of drills into the 2 openings just to clear the crud, spray it all with 'Inox' and re-assemble, do the final push of the bung in a vice with soft jaws, that way the bung goes flush with the top of the breather
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/274.jpg
then refit to the diff/housing, my mate must have overlooked this vital bit of kit and I took it at face value that they were working, always pays to check, anyway cheers Dennis:)

[1950landy]

Have a good holiday. we're off to Harvey Bay next week before the whale Watching season finishes . :) Going to call in to see Keith Cree on the way & drop the drivers uniform in for the Royal parade L/R & hopefully pick up a couple of parts for Landy. :D Hope to get some time when we get home to get some more done on Landy.:(

[Dinty]

Blacksmith job today, made a short collar 7/16"BSF internal thread to stop any damage to the rod
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/80.jpg
heat it up n hit it hard to peen it over
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/81.jpg
I will grind it back later this afternoon, and maybe re-assemble, cheers Dennis

[Northern Lander]

Ah Dennis I see you have one of those fancy Henrob welders.
I really should get mine up and welding again, it went into semi retirement when I ran out of gas and money. Just need to find it again :(
Great thread and have enjoyed reading watching the land rover live again.

Regards

Brendan

[1950landy]

Blacksmith job today, made a short collar 7/16"BSF internal thread to stop any damage to the rod
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/80.jpg
heat it up n hit it hard to peen it over
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/81.jpg
I will grind it back later this afternoon, and maybe re-assemble, cheers Dennis

Dennis, can t thinknwhat this tool doese or how it works :confused: . Cant wait to get back home to work on Landy.
Wayne .

[Dinty]

What tool Wayne? cheers Dennis

[Lionelgee]

What tool Wayne? cheers Dennis

Hello Dennis,

My take on Wayne's question is possible reference to the air gun. It looks like the nozzle has been taken off and then a hose has been threaded onto the gun's base so it can deliver air into a portable furnace to heat the metal up for blacksmithing. Well that is my guess anyway :p

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Dark61]

I always admire your anvil in your postings. Is that DIY or is it commercial? I looked up homemade anvils (as you do) and spent a good 20 minutes admiring various efforts - mostly made from old railway track. Slightly upsetting as I left a good length of same in a previous property , not thinking that it would ever be of much use! Duh!! Fascinating stuff.


cheers,
D

[123rover50]

Hello Dennis,

My take on Wayne's question is possible reference to the air gun. It looks like the nozzle has been taken off and then a hose has been threaded onto the gun's base so it can deliver air into a portable furnace to heat the metal up for blacksmithing. Well that is my guess anyway :p

Kind Regards
Lionel
My take is Wayne means the L shaped tool he is making, with the riveted cross piece.
The pistol looking thing is a welding torch.
I bought one years ago when it was called a Dillon.

Keith

[Lionelgee]

My take is Wayne means the L shaped tool he is making, with the riveted cross piece.
The pistol looking thing is a welding torch.
I bought one years ago when it was called a Dillon.

Keith


Hello Keith,

Well spotted - accessed October 28, 2016 from, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyJJUqVFPK4. I don't speak German however a picture does explain a lot.

There is also a product review accessed October 28, 2016 from, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwqIRZnmTfM

Kind Regards
Lionel

[1950landy]

My take is Wayne means the L shaped tool he is making, with the riveted cross piece.
The pistol looking thing is a welding torch.
I bought one years ago when it was called a Dillon.

Keith

Your spot on Keith, cant work out what you wod use it on a tie rod.:confused:

[Dinty]

The 'L' shaped bar that I heated and peened over is the operating to engage the PTO, the shaft that the knob screws on was wobbling all over the place, I would have thought that maybe, it would have been threaded onto the shaft but the parts book doesn't show it like that at all, so I got out my oxy/acetylene torch (I have 2 types) as it was nearest the shed door, laid it on it's side after lighting up, held in place with a 2.5kg lump of lead ( I have heaps of lead ingots that I use to cast bullets) I had to do it this way as my T/A wasn't home.
On the threaded rod where the knob goes I made a collar threaded 7/16"BSF to protect the thread and also to sit square on the anvil while I belted the hot end to peen it over, it is all done now, cheers Dennis
ps next job will be to make a propellor shaft for the PTO,,.

[mick88]

My take is Wayne means the L shaped tool he is making, with the riveted cross piece.
The pistol looking thing is a welding torch.
I bought one years ago when it was called a Dillon.

Keith


I remember a rep coming around to an engineering place to demo the "Dillon" oxy welding attachment back in the early 1970's.
They have been around for a while.


Cheers, Mick.