Sitec's 101..

[roobar_and_custard]

Impressive - and quick. Youve done great work, and those new tanks fit in really well.
Good luck at the pits (and bring your chequebook!).
Ian

[DasLandRoverMan]

Looking good chap.

Bet you're itching to get out for a good run on the road?

[Sitec]

Sure am... straight over the pits, then a few weeks of obscene fuel economy and then its diesel time!!!! Just the few blasts up the road remind me why the last went diesel very quickly!

[Sitec]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2009664#post2009664

Whilst waiting to get to the pits, I've started to tackle the job of mating the LT230 to the ZF box. Thought I'd put it in a thread in Projects for a few others who might not get into the world of 101's! Here's the link.. if it works! :)

[123rover50]

Why are you going with the LT 230 and not the LT95?
I would have thought you would want to keep the winch capability etc.

Keith

[Sitec]

Hi Keith.
The LT95 is all one piece, and the job of chopping the box in half put me off.. It's the original 101 box, so I don't want to chop it up. Not only that, the LT230 lends itself to the job as the input gear is fully supported, the depth of the box is less than that of the LT95 transfer case, the ZF box I'm using has two PTO outlets, one of which I have a hydraulic pump in, which will eventually run a rear mount winch. I now have fuel tanks either side so would never run the original Noken Winch... Not only that, they're as rare as chooks teeth now, and better suited to a genuine/original vehicle. Ashcroft also do a kit to upgrade the center diff which I plan to do to help it cope with the huge torque increase! The LT230 is easy to work with, has a good flat mounting face to suit sitting on adaptors etc. Cheers for now! :)

[123rover50]

Lots of good reasons there:)
I had a spare LT95 so could cut it up.
I had to use the T,box off it to get the third axle drive otherwise may have done the same as you.
Keith

[Sitec]

Ok guys, I've been doing some calculations today.. The Cummins engines max power is at 2500rpm, so Im assuming flat out would be 2800/3000rpm. With this in mind I started thinking about gear ratios. The ZF box is an overdrive box in 5th... At 2500 rpm, the output speed is 3100 rpm. So here are the figures:-

1.003:1 Transfer gears and 4.7:1 diffs at 2500rpm I'll be traveling at 112kph..
1.003:1 Transfer gears and 3.5:1 diffs at 2500rpm I'll be traveling at 150kph!!!
1.222:1 transfer gears and 3.5:1 diffs at 2500rpm I'll be traveling at 124kph..

Now, my thoughts are the 112kph option is just a little slow for ecomimy/cruising. I'd like to be doing 110kph at 1500 rpm.. The second option of 150kph at 2500rpm kind of appeals to me!!!! Prob not practical...
The last option of 124kph at 2500rpm sounds the best... but it does mean 3.5:1 diffs...... which will affect the lo box. That said, the ZF truck box has a fairly slow first gear which would help..... Thoughts please! :)

[Mick_Marsh]

The Goldilocks ratio.
That's what I'd go for.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Translating it into UK money, you're looking at a possible 77mph cruise, or 93mph with the 3.54 diffs.

Pretty sure Nick did something with the governor spring on his to take the max RPM up a bit (the yanks an have em running 4,200 redline with the P pump) but generally run to 3,600. Apparently the governor spring mod stops them backing off fuelling as the redline approaches...

Anyways, I'd say the sensible option would be 3.54 diffs (more easily available) and the 1.2 transfer box, more than quick enough at 2,500 rpm, and would still run past 90mph before you hit the governor.

There's also the added advantage that you can fit the input gear out the back of the transfer box...

Whilst I'm sure the idea of a diesel 101 that will crack 100mph (about 115mph on the governor) sounds good on paper, but I suspect self preservation instincts would kick in before you got into 3 figures.
You've got a shiney new Golf for high speed cruising, and you'll not die driving it. A 70-75mph cruise in a 101 is more than quick enough...

[spongie]

What a way to go!!!! 100mph in a 101 diesel and your ear drums explode at the same moment your arms/legs and other appendages fall off from the vibration...

;)

[Sitec]

The old red one was capable of 100mph... and the only thing that used to worry me was the thought of the windscreens imploding!!!! I have a 1.222:1 transfer case in stock (SWIMBO's Ser2), and I have the 1.003:1 coming from Taz. Either would suit the Ser 2, so my options are open. As normal, I've found the bits then thought about it.... Have two 4.7:1 R&P's here, but have one complete 3.5 Salisbury here too.... Still got a little while to think about it as its still not on the road yet!

Das... With the 1.003:1 box, you talk about the gear not fitting from behind.... Does that mean that it has to go in from the bottom, then gets poked out thru the rear, the intermediate gear is fitted, then the input gear is positioned and tightened? Or will it fit thru the rear hole, but won't pass the intermediate gear? Might have to be 1.222:1 yet.....

[wrinklearthur]

--- With the 1.003:1 box, you talk about the gear not fitting from behind.... Does that mean that it has to go in from the bottom, then gets poked out thru the rear, the intermediate gear is fitted, then the input gear is positioned and tightened? Or will it fit thru the rear hole, but won't pass the intermediate gear? Might have to be 1.222:1 yet.....

Well it's ( the 1.003:1 ) still sitting out in the shed waiting for Cate in her shinning armour to arrive in her Discovery stead, https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/14.jpg
Don't suppose I could have a quick stickybeak to see if that top gear comes out the back. ;)
.

[Sitec]

Feel free if you want to Arthur. Either way, the box will be used. If it does not go behind the Cummins, it'll go behind the Tdi and LT77 in the wife's Series. Being a ragtop shorty it'll pull 1.003:1, and prob be good on fuel too! :)

[DasLandRoverMan]

Das... With the 1.003:1 box, you talk about the gear not fitting from behind.... Does that mean that it has to go in from the bottom, then gets poked out thru the rear, the intermediate gear is fitted, then the input gear is positioned and tightened? Or will it fit thru the rear hole, but won't pass the intermediate gear? Might have to be 1.222:1 yet.....

That I can't give a 100% accurate answer to, I know it's something with them, but I'm not sure quite where the interference comes in.

As you've asked, I shall phone ashcrofts and ask them today.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Just been on the phone to Ashcrofts, they tell me the input gear is physically too large to fit through the pto hole in the back of the box, so to remove you need to take the transfer box out of the car, pull the intermediate gears and then you can get the input gear out.

[Sitec]

Mmmmm, so for my little exercise it might be a case of not being able to get my modified gear in.... To be honest, the 1.222:1 Transfer Box and 3.54:1 diffs option is looking favourable at the moment.. 2000 engine RPM gives me 98.8 km/h... and 2500 engine RPM gives me 124 km/h.. So, with that in mind.... I have 2 very good 4.7:1 Salisbury R & P's that I need to sell, and I'm after 1 3.54:1 Salisbury R & P complete with center as the offset is different! :)

[wrinklearthur]

Somewhere in our house is a one hundred year old book on mechanics and motor vehicle, in it is a description on how an engineer determines the final drive ratio using the engine size.

But those engines certainly were not high speed diesels. :p
.

[Sitec]

It took me a while to remember how to do it... Engine speed of 2500rpm. Rotated crank once and watched tail shaft.. It did 1.25 turns... 2500rpm x1.25 = 3125rpm at tail shaft. Divide that by the transfer box ratio 1.222:1. 3125 div by 1.22 = 2561 prop shaft rpm.. Divide that by diff ratio. 2561 div by 3.54 = 723. This is axle shaft speed. The wheel radius is approx 2850. Times the axle shaft speed by the wheel radius which gives you a distance covered in mm within a minute... 2850 x 723 = 2060mm in a minute. Then x that by 60 to hive you the distance in an hour... 2060mm x 60min = 123 kmh... (at 2500rpm). That's how I've been doing it... A mate checked it and arrived at the same figures with the different ratios... :D

[Mick_Marsh]

Don't forget to take into account tyre creep. A rubber tyre travels more than the circumference in one revolution.

[DasLandRoverMan]

I think I've solved the Transfer gearing problems. I was inspired by watching a documentary about the Dakar Rally. It may cause a few space issues in the back though...

The if you haven't heard of the DAF X1 you should google it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/912.jpg

Anyways, it would mean you need to buy another engine and box, and stick it together like this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/913.jpg

It would have plenty of power, four wheel drive, and gearing would be less of a problem...
You'd have to switch one of the diffs to the opposite side though.

I'm guessing it's not really gonna be a viable option... :D

[Sitec]

Ha! That's the way forward! That pic of the engine setup was in an early 'double headed Daf' belonging to Jan De Rooy... The idea being that when driving, if one end fails, they turn it off, jump out.... jump in the other end, turn around and keep going! He nearly came to blows tho in the 80's as one of the cab latches failed.... the cab they were in!!!!! I can't find it but old video footage shows it happening!! Here's a pic of said truck!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Strange you should mention Jan De Rooy, the X1 was also his idea.
Absolutely insane, an 11 tonne truck with a better power to weight ratio than a Ferrari 360, there's a video of it overtaking a Peugeot 405 T16 in the desert at something over 100mph on YouTube.

It'd be an awesome setup in a 101, be a great towing vehicle...

[Homestar]

Strange you should mention Jan De Rooy, the X1 was also his idea.
Absolutely insane, an 11 tonne truck with a better power to weight ratio than a Ferrari 360, there's a video of it overtaking a Peugeot 405 T16 in the desert at something over 100mph on YouTube.

It'd be an awesome setup in a 101, be a great towing vehicle...

This is a good clip. At about the 10 minute mark it shows the footage of the X1 overtaking the Peugeot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxEq3Xt6p48

[Sitec]

210kph on sand..... Now that's boogying!!! :D

[Mick_Marsh]

Imagine being along for the ride. Would certainly loosen my bowels.

[Sitec]

I'd pay lots of money for a ride in one of those things, and even more to drive the thing!!!!! Soooo, exactly how fast can I get my 101 to go!!!!!???? :cool:

[DasLandRoverMan]

255/100 R16's, 3.54:1 Diffs, and 0.75:1 overdrive out of the gearbox, run it to 2800rpm, that should leave you running at about... Gonna die quickly kph?

[Sitec]

With a 1.222:1 transfer case it'll mean 124kph at 2500 rpm. Not really looking for speed, but want to be using the 1200-2000 rpm rev/torq range when doing around 70/90 kph... That's the plan. Hope then to have the ability to pull out and overtake a B Double at a decent pace and not have to radio ahead so that they slow down (aka Defender 130!) :)

[Sitec]

Well... The day has come. Finally decided that its now or never.. Parted with the cash and booked it in for an inspection. The day started early with a few final things to tidy up. That done I thought I'll do a final check of all the functions.. No RH brake light.. One globe later and still no light! Half an hour later, a stripped light assy finds a corroded earth.. Rectify that, and bingo! With everything else working, I thought.. I'll fit the new tilt. Help the 'tidy' appearance... Well, that was not to be either!! The holes for the windscreen lugs are too few and all bar two in the wrong place!!! So the tilt will be going back!! Trade plate on, and off we go!! 50km later and I'm in the burbs of Adelaide! ID check first.... First problem of the day. The import cert is missing the 'A' that the chassis has... The rest is fine tho and the guy is very helpful but says to pop around to the pits and confirm they can test it. No prob, off I go... For 500yards. The fuel pump stops and so do we! By now Im stressing, cursing etc etc! Off with the covers, test for power.. All good.. Hmmm. Belt the pump with a shifter and away it goes. Great. Put the covers back on, turn the key... Half flat battery!!! Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!! Now I ring SWIMBO, having firstly rang Bojan in a panic, she comes out of work (just up the road) and sits with the 101 guarding the trade plate while I go get a new battery! New battery in and we're off. At the pits with half an hour to spare! On the pits the fella goes thru it checking everything. All good. Onto the rolling road (4x4 mode where they rotate the wheels in opposite directions and test one wheel at a time so as not to spin the center diff). He can't get over how good the brakes are!!! Next a test drive around the block... The guys grinning all the way!!! We have a PASS!!!! Ran half way home before I had to hit the fuel pump again, but now sat enjoying a beer!!! Just the paperwork from Canberra to rectify and I can pick up the personal plates from Gawler! We're soon to be legal!!!!:D

[Mick_Marsh]

Excellent!
I'll be up for a test drive after Christmas. Let me know if anything needs to be collected from AJ's.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Congratulations on a pass, it's always a good feeling, pain in the arse when your truck seems to be conspiring against you though.
Still, soon to be terrorising the Queens Commonwealth Highways!!!



255/100 R16's, 3.54:1 Diffs, and 0.75:1 overdrive out of the gearbox, run it to 2800rpm, that should leave you running at about... Gonna die quickly kph?

I was thinking how quick would it be with Twin Engines, 400 bhp and however much torque...

[Sitec]

Any time Mick! More than welcome!! Just deciding wether to get into the Diesel Conversion now or have a few weeks fun first!!!

Das... Yeah, there was a moment when I'd about had a guts full!! Re 400bhp... That Cummins of mine is good for 400 reliable horses and 1000 silly horses in the right hands..... Thinking 240 will do me just fine!!!! Will go find another vid of Toms Land Rover 110 with the same setup in it.. It boogys!! 👍

[Sitec]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=q51rvRF87Y0

Here's a 110 in the UK with the same 'donk' doing what it does best! Sounding awesome!!!! I do have to admit tho that that 'bent 8' of Bojans does sound nice!!! I see where Ron's coming from! :)

[DasLandRoverMan]

Using your numbers if you ran twin engines you could (reliably) have over 200bhp/tonne in power to weight, and 151kph at 2500 rpm with 3.54 diffs straight of the ZF.

That's gotta be suitably insane, even if its not going to happen.

[cooee]

hi sitec:D
you really did have bad start to day at motor regwell done sure you
enjoyed beer later look forward to your next step I enjoy v8 for awhile
cheers cooee:)

[Sitec]

Well, I have a 101 now registered for the road, so have just been for a 40km blast around locally! All the hard work and $$$$ were worth it!!!! :) Now to do a few KM's, attend the SA Pub Meet, then its all go with the diesel!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Looks good chap, how many arms did you have to twist for the number plate?

[Sitec]

Not too many funnily enough? I was typing options in on the EziReg site a few months ago and this one was not taken.... So I grabbed it!!!! :D

[101 Ron]

I know for a fact it is taken in NSW and on a black and white plate.
I hope you don't get busted by a speed camera.........I could get the bill
:wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasntme::wasn tme::wasntme::wasntme:

[Sitec]

I was surprised it was free... Does that mean that LR101 is available in WA Stuee and Brute...... :) Couldn't not have it as it was there! So, if I black out the little 'SA' Im laughing!!! :D Don't worry too much... There'll b a colour change soon.... Off to the Garden Center tomorrow in it... Maiden Voyage with SWMBO!

[stuee]

Personally I'm chasing "101FC", but haven't even got close to looking if its available yet.

Would be amusing to see three 101's with the same number plate though!

[DasLandRoverMan]

I've seen it done in the UK, two near identical vehicles at opposite ends of the country with the same plates, not exactly legal though...

Have you decided on a colour yet?

[Mick_Marsh]

Personally I'm chasing "101FC", but haven't even got close to looking if its available yet.

Would be amusing to see three 101's with the same number plate though!
Four.
FC-101 is on a 101 here in Vic.
I knew the fellow who first got it from Vicroads back in the early '90's. It's still getting around. It was spotted in Werribee earlier this year.

[101 Ron]

Sitec............would you be going to Cowora next year.
I will most likely be going too.

[Sitec]

Hi Ron. Melrose is my 'Diesel Deadline' but if its done before hand, then yes, I'd love to get to Cowora... I'm planning on taking a few weeks of over Xmas to get into it but we'll see how it goes... Das, pretty set on white as it will set the black bits off.... Option 2 of Blood/Candy Apple Red are still close contenders tho! :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Blood red. That would be nice,
Blood red or white, you need a black tilt.

[roobar_and_custard]

Black tilt - should have no problem keeping warm... Thought about a sand tilt and then appropriate colour to suit?
Otherwise - it'll be "boil in the bag" driving in sunny weather...
Ian.

[Homestar]

Black tilt - should have no problem keeping warm... Thought about a sand tilt and then appropriate colour to suit?
Otherwise - it'll be "boil in the bag" driving in sunny weather...
Ian.

Doesn't matter what colour the tilt is, it is always hot going in these things, even on a mildly warm day.:D

[Sitec]

So, I get home from work.. and decide that the fuel usage is obscene, so am now doing stuff in prep for the diesel but still keeping 'Mick' on the road for the upcoming SA pub meet in early Dec. I have decided that this weekend will be the diff swap weekend and Detroit fitment! 3.5's against a V8 should be an interesting experiment.. Think I'll be utilising first, and rendering 4th useless, unless on a downhill slope with the wind behind me! Its only for a few weeks tho!

[Homestar]

Yep, you're not going to wear 4th out with the 3.5's in there...:D.

And, c'mon, the fuel usage on the V8 isn't that horrendous - compared to a 747...:angel:

[Sitec]

Just thought you'd all like to see the visual difference between a 101's 5.7'1 Salisbury and a 110/130's 3.54:1 Salisbury diff centers. I'll tell you the gearing difference on Sun! :D The 101 diff is on the right.

[101RRS]

The 101 crown wheel looks a lot more heavy duty - is the other one going to last.

15mpg in a 101 isn't so bad - my Jag sports only gives 14mpg.

Have fun :)

[Sitec]

Hopefully. Yeah, the 5.7 is thicker, but the pinion is tiny... The 3.5 pinion is twice the size. Busy day yesterday, the front diff is done. For some reason I thought the CV's would come out thru the swivel housing if I removed the brake backplates.. I was wrong.this lead me to draining and stripping the swivels as well. Glad I did tho as there was a bit of crap in them from where it had been stood at AJ's. All front bearings were in A1 condition, so have been re used. New pinion seal and crush tube went in, and then a bit of time spent setting the diff up. Its back in there as the old one was, with minimal play, and a nice even tooth mesh. Fresh oil in the diff and swivels too, and its all still in there this morning! Rear diff today and the Detroit is going in too! :)

[Dougal]

Any time Mick! More than welcome!! Just deciding wether to get into the Diesel Conversion now or have a few weeks fun first!!!

Das... Yeah, there was a moment when I'd about had a guts full!! Re 400bhp... That Cummins of mine is good for 400 reliable horses and 1000 silly horses in the right hands..... Thinking 240 will do me just fine!!!! Will go find another vid of Toms Land Rover 110 with the same setup in it.. It boogys!! 👍

Sure the engine can do 400hp. But where are you going to fit the turbos, air piping and air cleaner big enough for that?

240 should be easily doable with either stock turbo (depending on exact model) or a replacement turbo the same size as stock. But even the space required for air filtration gets pretty silly pretty quickly.

[Sitec]

Sure the engine can do 400hp. But where are you going to fit the turbos, air piping and air cleaner big enough for that?

240 should be easily doable with either stock turbo (depending on exact model) or a replacement turbo the same size as stock. But even the space required for air filtration gets pretty silly pretty quickly.

All will be revealed soon Dougal..the 101's air cleaner is already the size of a dustbin, and is mounted on the left under the battery. The Cummins turbo is mounted on the right under the exhaust manifold with its inlet facing to the rear of the engine. As the engine is being mounted as much to the left as possible, (10mm between timing cover and LH chassis rail), it will give me enough room to run the turbo in its std position. I'll then make a nice 3" shaped pipe that runs around the back of the block under the gear linkage into the turbo. The 101's rad sits inside the chassis and is approx 600mm wide.. The cab alli/tunnel is sheeted to the outside of the chassis rails... This gives me a 95 mm gap each side.. Plenty of room for a 3" intercooler tube each side! I've found a reasonably priced intercooler that's 300mm tall, 75mm deep and 500 wide with 3" outlets each side. It'll sit in front of the rad, just above the steering relay and linkage.

Anyway. Back to diffs.. Here's a pic of the 3.5 pinion beside the 5.7 pinion. (3.5 is on the left). Garrycol, I see where you are coming from re strength of the 3.5 Sals, but the 'Cummins Crew' in the UK have had no probs, and looking at this pic, I'd have thought the 101's original pinion would be a lot weaker due to the lack of tooth contact... I'll find out soon enough I guess!!

[Sitec]

Ideal time to fit the Detroit too.. This transformed my old 101, and Ron swears by his.. Its all happening today!! :D

[Sitec]

And bearing extraction to get to the shims required to set the new center up. The rear will be having new bearings as although they are ok, there's a little more wear marking than I'd like.

[Homestar]

Sure the engine can do 400hp. But where are you going to fit the turbos, air piping and air cleaner big enough for that?

240 should be easily doable with either stock turbo (depending on exact model) or a replacement turbo the same size as stock. But even the space required for air filtration gets pretty silly pretty quickly.

You don't need to go silly or fit a second turbo on a 6B to get 400HP from it. There are plenty of stock 400HP units out there with very little outward looking difference in the engine. Fuel pump, injectors, pistons, rings and liners are all different though. Can't remember off the top of my head the CPL for them, but I could look it up and get an exact parts listing for each.

The marine version of the 6B is pushing out around 700HP now, and only has one - quite large - turbo...:)

[Dougal]

You don't need to go silly or fit a second turbo on a 6B to get 400HP from it. There are plenty of stock 400HP units out there with very outward looking difference in the engine. Fuel pump, injectors, pistons, rings and liners are all different though. Can't remember off the top of my head the CPL for them, but I could look it up and get an exact parts listing for each.

The marine version of the 6B is pushing out around 700HP now, and only has one - quite large - turbo...:)

It's the air handling side that gets very big and cumbersome. The HX35 (if Sitec has one) can handle 400hp. But you're talking over 600 cfm (0.3 cumecs of air) and shedding about 32kw of heat through the intercooler.

The Donaldson G130107 Style B air-filter can do it. It's 330mm diameter, 530mm long (plus 480mm for element removal = 1 metre space required), has a 6" air inlet and 5" connection to the engine. This is what I mean by big and cumbersome.

For those interested, 400hp at 3,200rpm takes ~30psi boost and produces almost 900Nm at that rpm. A stock (i.e. unopened) 6BT would do it without problems. Fuel loading is ~150cc/1000 shots which should be doable on the VE Pump. A 4BT VE pump can do ~180cc per shot and this is less.
We're talking a clean tune too.

If you want to do 400hp at 2,500rpm (i.e. no governor changes) then it starts getting harder on the driveline. ~1130Nm and 172 cc/1000 shots of diesel.
Boost required is ~31psi which is stil good for the HX35.
It can still be done on a clean tune. But a tune being sympathetic to the driveline will likely cap torque levels and from there set what rpm you need to deliver your max power.

[Homestar]

I see what you mean, but I think you can get away with a much smaller air cleaner than the one you mention - it is huge - about the same size we use on our 2000HP KTTA50's - although we use 2 on those, they still flow 1000HP each, so that would be huge overkill for 400HP. As Sitec mentioned,the stock 101 cleaner is big for the size of the original engine, and is the same size as a unit on the smaller HP 6B's, so should flow fine for 240HP he is looking at. Without doing the maths on it, I would be happy to give it a whirl at 400HP to see if it would work - I think it would come close.

[Dougal]

I see what you mean, but I think you can get away with a much smaller air cleaner than the one you mention - it is huge - about the same size we use on our 2000HP KTTA50's - although we use 2 on those, they still flow 1000HP each, so that would be huge overkill for 400HP. As Sitec mentioned,the stock 101 cleaner is big for the size of the original engine, and is the same size as a unit on the smaller HP 6B's, so should flow fine for 240HP he is looking at. Without doing the maths on it, I would be happy to give it a whirl at 400HP to see if it would work - I think it would come close.

I'm going through the same with my rangie. Looking for an aircleaner that can do ~500CFM while still filtering and fitting under the bonnet.

The Donaldson ratings are very conservative, worst pressure drop they list for rated flow is 10inH20 which is ~2.4% of an atmosphere. But their filters do allow to collect several kg of dirt and keep working.

[wrinklearthur]

----- As Sitec mentioned,the stock 101 cleaner is big for the size of the original engine, and is the same size as a unit on the smaller HP 6B's, so should flow fine for 240HP he is looking at. Without doing the maths on it, I would be happy to give it a whirl at 400HP to see if it would work - I think it would come close.

I fitted some service indicators to the air filters on our farm tractors, as at the time they were working in extremely dusty conditions and the indicators helped us to know when the air cleaners needed clearing .

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

If there is any concern with enough air not drawing through the air filter you could watch and see if these indicators triggered as they stay on until reset.
.

[Dougal]

I fitted some service indicators to the air filters on our farm tractors, as at the time they were working in extremely dusty conditions and the indicators helped us to know when the air cleaners needed clearing .

http://www.dieselprogressna.com/images/companies/mainimage/ENG001_main_110510153815FM-airFilterGauge.jpg

If there is any concern with enough air not drawing through the air filter you could watch and see if these indicators triggered as they stay on until reset.
.

I run a Donaldson informer restriction gauge. Great peace of mind. I'm pulling ~5kPa at the moment which is twice what a clean Donaldson filter would be rated at.

[Sitec]

Wow.. Spend an arvo in the workshop and miss out on all the action! 400hp 101.... That would be a hoot!!! I think 240hp will do what I need to do... (for now!! :D). I'd have to change the Bosch VE pump out for the large In Line unit if I want big power..
Anyway, I've just got back from a ten min test drive which took a few hours as it went so well, and here's a pic of my 'updated' speedo.... Yup, it will do 110kph, easily! The jump from 3rd to 4th is huge but it pulls it! I knew it'd be overkill but am surprised how drivable its made it. You now use 1st and 2nd, do all your work in third, and select 4th on the freeway. I was getting some very funny looks as I barrelled down the freeway at 110kph! Wouldn't take much weight to slow it down tho! Incidentally, where do people's temp gauges run? Mine is better now there's more air moving thru it but it still likes to climb to that little red line when working.... :)

[Mick_Marsh]

You need to get a ratio box bade up to correct your speedo now.
110kmph! 80kmph is fast enough for me in the 101.

Might be tempted to change the diff ratio's in the other 101 though.

[Dougal]

Wow.. Spend an arvo in the workshop and miss out on all the action! 400hp 101.... That would be a hoot!!! I think 240hp will do what I need to do... (for now!! :D). I'd have to change the Bosch VE pump out for the large In Line unit if I want big power..

The VE in the 4BT can produce enough fuel for 300hp. I'm sure the VE in the 6BT wouldn't have any problems providing enough fuel for 400hp.

I made a typo in the 2,500rpm 400hp figures. I'm correcting them now.

[amazing]

as for temp..mine would just go a wee bit higher when worked but hardly noticable.

never saw it redline.

[bobslandies]

You need to get a ratio box bade up to correct your speedo now.
110kmph! 80kmph is fast enough for me in the 101.

Might be tempted to change the diff ratio's in the other 101 though.

Easier than that. If you have an older local auto instrument technician he will have a cable turn meter. You disconnect the speedo, plug in the cable turn meter and drive up and back a number of times over his measured mile/kilometre.
Have someone else taking the readings and average them. This will give the number of turns and he can change the gears inside the speedometer head. I had a speedo converted from 4.7: to 3.5:1 (Ford 9") in my Series in 1975. Started off with a Range Rover speedometer as the Series might have "got off the clock". The number of turns is usually at the bottom of the speedo - 2 door RR with 205s is 720 per kilometre.
Simon, it's the number almost under the Cold Start warning light in your dash photo.

Older techs were doing it all the time for taxis, local Highway Patrol cars, etc.
Today its mostly restored bike speedometers they rebuild that get this treatment.

Bob

[Sitec]

You need to get a ratio box bade up to correct your speedo now.
110kmph! 80kmph is fast enough for me in the 101.

Might be tempted to change the diff ratio's in the other 101 though.

I'll jump that hurdle after the diesel and LT230 go in.. I'm hoping one of the coloured interchangeable speedo drives will bring a Defender speedo somewhere near. :)

[Homestar]

Temp gauge on mine sits on 86 when just cruising along, but climbs quickly towards he red line, it never gets there - I made sure of this, even when I had the timing wrong on a hot day, I backed off when it climbed up there. Now the timing is fixed, working it hard gets it up there, but I don't need to back off. Haven't run it in ambients above 30 since getting back from my trip though. I plan on a good run next hot day we get to see how it fairs now.

[Mick_Marsh]

Easier than that. If you have an older local auto instrument technician he will have a cable turn meter. You disconnect the speedo, plug in the cable turn meter and drive up and back a number of times over his measured mile/kilometre.
Have someone else taking the readings and average them. This will give the number of turns and he can change the gears inside the speedometer head. I had a speedo converted from 4.7: to 3.5:1 (Ford 9") in my Series in 1975.
Older techs were doing it all the time for taxis, local Highway Patrol cars, etc.
Today its mostly restored bike speedometers they rebuild that get this treatment.

Bob
Yep. Had that done with one of my Mokes. I ran a taller diff with a speedo that went up to 160km/h (they usually go to 140km/h on the scale). No speedo gears were available for the combination (and I wanted the odometer to be correct as well) so a ratio box was made. Are there speedo gears made for this diff/tyre combination for the 101 speedo?

[DasLandRoverMan]

There's probably something fairly close in the standard range of Series Land Rover speedos if you went to look.

I believe a standard 101 is the same as a SWB Series III on 6.00x16 tyres, so quite conceivable that one of the other utility models would work with the tyre/transfer box combo.
The masking tape and biro approach works for me though.

[bobslandies]

Yep. Had that done with one of my Mokes. I ran a taller diff with a speedo that went up to 160km/h (they usually go to 140km/h on the scale). No speedo gears were available for the combination (and I wanted the odometer to be correct as well) so a ratio box was made. Are there speedo gears made for this diff/tyre combination for the 101 speedo?

The body of the speedo looks just like a Series 3, only the gears inside will reflect the 9.00x16 tyres. The gear sets were quite easily changed to get it accurate. Lots of vehicles used those base speedos with many different pairs of gears - like crown wheels and pinions for diff ratios. Whether they are available today is another thing.

Put this in the earlier post - The number of turns is usually at the bottom of the speedo - 2 door RR with 205s is 720 per kilometre.

Simon, it's the number almost under the Cold Start warning light in your dash photo.


Bob

[Sitec]

Simon, it's the number almost under the Cold Start warning light in your dash photo.
[/I]

Bob

Well, it still amazes me how much I learn each time I have a spell on this forum! Here's the numbers that I have 'in stock'..

101:- SNT - 6209/135 940
Ser2:- SN - 6147/02A 1536
Ser2A ex Mil:- SN 3321/01 1504

This interests me as I would like to retain an original style speedo in SWMBO's Ser 2 Tdi. Cheers!! :)

[wrinklearthur]

Use the electronic speedo and have it recalibrated to suit the diff and tyres .

.

[bobslandies]

Well, it still amazes me how much I learn each time I have a spell on this forum! Here's the numbers that I have 'in stock'..

101:- SNT - 6209/135 940
Ser2:- SN - 6147/02A 1536
Ser2A ex Mil:- SN 3321/01 1504

This interests me as I would like to retain an original style speedo in SWMBO's Ser 2 Tdi. Cheers!! :)

My Parts Catalogues for Series 1, 2, 2A, FC and 101 are in storage over an hour away but if any of you have access this info it is in the Speedometer part numbers for different tyre sizes usually so you can see the differences.
We need some 90/110/Defender numbers with 3.54:1 :thumbsup:

As I said the RR is 720 turns per km - 3.54 :1 ratio, 205x16 about the same as 6.50x16 IIRC.

I'll dig out some speedos tomorrow if it's not raining.

Bob

[wrinklearthur]

If you could give us the number of the teeth on the coloured wheel you are using now, based on your marks on the speedo face compared with the 100 klm point, you need a wheel with 1.7241379310344827586206896551724 times the number of the teeth on the existing wheel. :angel:
.

[Mick_Marsh]

If you could give us the number of the teeth on the coloured wheel you are using now, based on your marks on the speedo face compared with the 100 klm point, you need a wheel with 1.7241379310344827586206896551724 times the number of the teeth on the existing wheel. :angel:
.
A tad bored, are we?

[Epic_Dragon]

is your front bar in this thread?

[Sitec]

is your front bar in this thread?

No, this one... 'My Old 101'. Three pages down in the 101's page if this link does not work....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/169693-my-old-101-a.html

[Epic_Dragon]

oh wow that front bar looks awesome on them!

[Sitec]

So, while Im waiting for a few things... gears, fan hubs etc I thought as I have the steel I'd get into making the new bumper. My original isa little tatty and has some rust spots so its time for the 'Sitec Special Mk 2'! First off was to draw it up, and make the adjustments from the original.

[Sitec]

The second job was slightly more tedious... Cutting it out using a 125mm thin cutting disk (or three)!!! Here's the outline cut out of 3mm. Yup, it sounds heavy, but once everything is cut out, its not.

[Sitec]

And this evenings job... Cutting the light holes out! Each square was cut using the thin disk, and then the corners were finished using the die grinder. Once done, the whole thing has had its edges buffed with a flap disk.

[Sitec]

And one last bit.. The 4 holes for the original lifting eyes! Just adds to it! The holes at the end of the cuts are to help when folding, so the two edges don't bind. Off to be folded tomorrow! :)

[Sitec]

Here's a pic of the template for the first bumper I made. I had access to a CAD profile cutter so we made a 1.5 mm tester... My best mate reminded me that it was still in his workshop so we have all the key folds etc!

[spongie]

Any chance of the cad files ;-) I'd love a single head lamp version!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Looks rather smart it must be said. Fairly epic cutting it all out with the grinder.
Tha needs a plasma cutter!!!

[Sitec]

Looks rather smart it must be said. Fairly epic cutting it all out with the grinder.
Tha needs a plasma cutter!!!

The original one was done with a CAD plasma cutter... No such luck this time, the guy that bent it up for me today thought I'd had it laser cut! It took some convincing that I'd done it with a 5" thin disk! Here's the folded item. Now to fill in the center, make a pin jaw, and recess the center for a fairlead! :)

[101RRS]

A really nice looking job but where is the hole for the crank handle :o.

Garry

[DasLandRoverMan]

Hand crank a 6BT... That's adorable :D

Looks like a smart piece of metalworking anyways.

[101RRS]

Hand crank a 6BT... That's adorable :D


Nah carry the old V8 in the back with the crank rod welded to it and use it to crank the 6Bt when required.

[Sitec]

I had to do a drop off in the truck today, and as I'm pulling bits off the 101, I thought.. Nows the time to go mad with the steam cleaner! So, whilst the truck was here and a mate with a winch was to hand we have 'Mick' loaded ready for a date with the steam cleaner at work! It would be nice to do a Stuee type rebuild at this point, but not just yet. Once the diesel is in and proven then it'll be a serious tidy up time!

[101RRS]

I think you got your thread mixed up with the other one:)

[Sitec]

Nah, this is a general clean up the 101 post.. Just a gud time to do it, whilst the engine's out. Diffs and chassis will get attacked, and once the springs are in they might get a coat of satin black or charcoal grey. :)

[Sitec]

Damn!! My K5LA horns won't fit between the chassis rails!!!! They will fit on the roof rack somewhere tho when I eventually build it!!! Oh, and they will make it to Melrose!!! :D

[DasLandRoverMan]

Bit extreme for a Dixie Horn. Will you have a confederate flag on the roof also? :p

[nrs91]

Damn!! My K5LA horns won't fit between the chassis rails!!!! They will fit on the roof rack somewhere tho when I eventually build it!!! Oh, and they will make it to Melrose!!! :D

bloody hell you were right they are big!

[Homestar]

Where does one get a set of horns like that...:D

[Mick_Marsh]

Where does one get a set of horns like that...:Dhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1442.jpg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:C501_on_blocks_Seymour_loco.JPG

[Homestar]

Yeah, yeah - without having to creep into a siding and relieving one of those of its voice...:D

[Mick_Marsh]

You take all the fun out of it.
Nathan Airchime K5LA Train Horn 180 PSI | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nathan-AirChime-K5LA-Train-Horn-180-PSI-/151202080822?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233458a836)

[Homestar]

Maybe I'll stick with the truck horn idea... Apart from the cost, I would struggle to make 180PSI from my system. Would be cool though...

[Sitec]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UUNnC-9XMnI

Yup, Micks on the money with this one... Mine came out of the Amtrac yard in LA, but Ebay is the next best option. Here's a vid of what they sound like too!!!!! (On a car!) :D

[Homestar]

That is ****ing AWESOME!!!

I can hear the wake up call at Melrose echoing off the surrounding hills already...:D

[Sitec]

That is ****ing AWESOME!!!

I can hear the wake up call at Melrose echoing off the surrounding hills already...:D

Yup, so can I.. Not sure how many times I can get away with it tho, as it can be heard from 10 kms away!!!! :D Every time I let rip with it here in Cockatoo Valley, the local cop in Williamstown rings me up telling me to shut the Duck up!

[Mick_Marsh]

Yup, so can I.. Not sure how many times I can get away with it tho, as it can be heard from 10 kms away!!!! :D Every time I let rip with it here in Cockatoo Valley, the local cop in Williamstown rings me up telling me to shut the Duck up!
There are very noisy ducks down here too. And cockatoos.

[goingbush]

check this out
http://asheville.craigslist.org/pts/4274273234.html

edit, oops wrong thread
reposted in other thread

[Dougal]

check this out
Cummins 5.9 Complete Engine (http://asheville.craigslist.org/pts/4274273234.html)

edit, oops wrong thread
reposted in other thread

Whole truck for far less: Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins dually pickup (http://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/4274247623.html)

[Homestar]

What's the latest mate? I've got withdrawal symptoms...:D. Mick tells me the Cummins looks very good in there and is the sort of engine these should have come with in the first place.:)

[Sitec]

Hello all.. Little progress here ATM, as I've been distracted by some major clearance behind the workshop for sighting of a 40' shipping container. Three pine trees now gone along with several tonnes of scrap, groundworks done, the container is now in, and the fence is back up, so all being well we'll be back to it this week! :)

[Sitec]

Ok, now the re power is all but complete (yeah yeah, the vid is coming 'calm ya farm'), its time to get on with things like the bumper, better lights and the wheel carrier. Now, I'd love to have the bumper on for Melrose, but realistically its not going to happen. The dual spare wheel carrier hopefully is though!!! Here's the first pic for you all. Here are the pivot pins. Yup, they're prob a little on the heavy side :D , but those 255/100 R16's are heavy... Very heavy.

[Sitec]

Here are the two 12mm plates that will carry the wheels, along with 8 Metric Fine bolts sourced from work (Kubota!). Once this is built I'll then look to buying two wheel covers, tho I plan to run the rego plate within the center of the RH wheel... depending on legality etc.

[Sitec]

And lastly, the plate that will carry it all. Its 180 x 12 flat. The 101's rear x member is 180mm deep, but decent bolting points are limited to the 4 on each rear bumperette, the 2 on each lifting eye, and the 4 in the center on the original dropper plate. I've decided to run the plate from the two points where the bumperette's sit, stepping it in in the middle of the x member, where it will incorporate a tow bar receiver below the line of the rear x member, but there will also be another receiver hole in the center where the trailer drive PTO hole sits, where the NATO hitch will reside. The larger piece of RHS is to link the wheel plate to the 100 x 50 RHS swinging frame so will only be approx 200mm long. Well.. That's the plan anyhow!

[DasLandRoverMan]

Sure you've got enough towing/attachment points in the plan?

Personally I reckon you'd be fine just using half of the holes available and it'd still be quite secure.
Not quite the same, but the rear winch/crane mount on piper 7 just used the 8 bolt holes for the bumperettes (there were some further forward but the back end took most of the load) and even with some of the tricks it performed in use it was still as securely attatched the day it was removed as when it was first fitted.

Still thinking tin top?

[Sitec]

Sure you've got enough towing/attachment points in the plan?

Personally I reckon you'd be fine just using half of the holes available and it'd still be quite secure.
Not quite the same, but the rear winch/crane mount on piper 7 just used the 8 bolt holes for the bumperettes (there were some further forward but the back end took most of the load) and even with some of the tricks it performed in use it was still as securely attatched the day it was removed as when it was first fitted.

Still thinking tin top?

Yeah, eventually... if SWMBO comes around to it! Re mounting the spare wheels, I kinda figured that with the weight of a wheel swinging out either side they would be better off linked... I have to make a dropper plate anyway. Will c how it goes tomorrow.

[Sitec]

So I made a start today. Removed the bump stops, the original NATO hitch plate along with its butchered bolts, and the two lifting eyes. As I thought, the average looking plating on the rear x member that I'm guessing was done this side of the water is a little les than average.. Not only that, its not flat, so my original idea of linking the two plates is the better plan! Here's the plate still in one piece running the width of the mounting holes.. The gap behind is the discrepancy over 300mm of flat area on the left side! :(

[Sitec]

I briefly contemplated leaving the plate as one piece across the rear of the vehicle... But it looks so butt ugly, that idea didn't last long!! :D

[Sitec]

So here's the plate (now stepped to suit the rear x member) being welded up! More tomorrow if I get to it! :)

[Brute]

So here's the plate (now stepped to suit the rear x member) being welded up! More tomorrow if I get to it! :)
Looking forward to watching your progress simon , I was looking at making a carrier for mine, might just go for a single one tho.

[Sitec]

Well, its been a little quiet in Room 101, so here's a progress report on the wheel carrier. The stepped plate is now drilled to suit the center of the rear x member. There's also the 4 holes in the center, where the NATO hitch will go. These holes have captive nuts welded behind them to save me grovelling in the dirt when fitting the NATO hitch! I have also sourced an old Hayman Reece towbar outer receiver, and this has been integrated into the plate along with side plates so as to look like a drop plate. It will also have a secondary plate 100mm further back which will also pick up on the two lower bolts that go straight thru the x member. There's no way that's falling off!! :D I'll prob temporarily fit the plate tomorrow and then tack the rear receiver plate in place to suit the holes.

[spongie]

Was thinking of fitting a receiver hitch under the nato too. Good effort that man. To a certain point hideously over engineered. Just how I like it!!

[Sitec]

Was thinking of fitting a receiver hitch under the nato too. Good effort that man. To a certain point hideously over engineered. Just how I like it!!

Yup, I hear u.. Way too much over engineering, but.. my x member will need replacing down the track, and with the weight of two huge wheels hangin off it it'll give it a better chance. Also going to have a step that slides into the receiver for when we're camping. When not in use and on the road, the step will be inserted up side down, so it sits up with the wheels... (In theory!) :D

[spongie]

Good thought

[Sitec]

Here's the plate loosely in place with the tongue and NATO hitch fitted.

[nrs91]

Here's the plate loosely in place with the tongue and NATO hitch fitted.

looks the dogs danglies buddy! wish i had your fabrication skills

[Sitec]

looks the dogs danglies buddy! wish i had your fabrication skills

The more you do, the better you get.. I learnt years ago that time spent getting the 'finish' right is what makes a job. If you spend 5 min cutting a plate out for something, spend another 5 radiusing the corners or sanding it flat, or buffing the edges etc.. and if you have an idea in you're head, draw it, then scale it then follow it.... :)

[nrs91]

the fabricator at work says he uses cardboard to mock stuff up then he has a template... shame his measureing is ****e haha

[Sitec]

Yup, cardboard works well.. The thin stuff on the back of those large desk pads is ideal!! Ok, I've been doing a bit to the spare wheel carrier, as I need it on for the Melrose trip!! Don't fancy tripping over two spares all the time!!! :D Here's a shot of one of the pillars in place, along with the swivelling top section. This will get framework to carry a wheel tomorrow!!

[Sitec]

Here's the completed receiver, with rear catch plate that will be clamped around the rear x member. I plan to make a step assembly that will slide into this which can be inverted against the wheels when not in use... Doubting it'll be done for Easter tho!! :D

I had also welded captive nuts behind the 4 bolt holes for the NATO hitch... This was a mistake, as when I tacked the rear plate for the receiver in place, I couldn't drop the whole thing off as the nuts sat against the bottom of the PTO hole!!!! Doh!!! :p

[Sitec]

Here's a view of it all so far.. The original airportable lifting eyes will be going back on in their correct place, there'll be a 24v truck type towing socket in place of the original 12 pin socket (as these are what I use on my trailers as they're better built, and it slows people down when they want to borrow a trailer!!! ;) ), and there'll be a std 7 pin round socket on the LH hole. I've also purchased some semi trailer rear rubbers which are close in size to the originals, so these will be going on too, just to try and retain some of the original 'look'.

[amazing]

nice rear...
viewing on a little phone so not too clear..but
have you considered adding a point for trailer safety line (I dont know if its a requirement down there but in UK trailers must have a safety line.)
If required it may be a good time to add something discreet.

[Sitec]

nice rear...
viewing on a little phone so not too clear..but
have you considered adding a point for trailer safety line (I dont know if its a requirement down there but in UK trailers must have a safety line.)
If required it may be a good time to add something discreet.

Hi Amazing.
Yeah, provision is already in... Here in SA (and Im assuming the rest of Oz) trailers have a length of chain (sometimes two) welded to the drawbar. These are connected to the tow vehicle via two 'D' shackles.. Just beside the receiver in the two upright plates I have drilled two 13mm holes for just that reason! Cheers! :)

[puma130tc]

Looking great!
As always.
Look forward to catching up at Melrose

[nrs91]

spot on Simon looks the part!

[Sitec]

Ok, well there's been a bit more progress today. I've managed to get the swinging frames made and welded to the upper tubes. I've also cut and shaped the plates and intermediate RHS that will carry the wheels. These will be going on once I've had my cuppa!! I have also started fabricating the spot light/ariel pillars. Believe it or not, I can still pick the whole thing up too!! :D

[101RRS]

Glad you have a 101 with a 1-1.5t load carrying capacity :D its going to need it.;)

Garry

[Sitec]

Glad you have a 101 with a 1-1.5t load carrying capacity :D its going to need it.;)

Garry

Yup, but its got 5.9 litres of fine Cummins power to pull it all along..... which yours hasn't! :D Anyway, back to the 'heavy' 'over engineered wheel carrier.. Progress has been good, the metalwork is all done, and ready for paint. Here's both carriers on the main frame.:)

[Sitec]

And here's everything having had the first coat of jam! Structural primer. The plates in the foreground are some slightly wider front wheel mudflap plates to give my tanks better protection. The flat shaped plates are to go between the tanks and the front of the rear wheels for the same reason. I've also remade the rear plates that are on the rear xmember. All are 460mm wide so nearly right into the chassis sides, and I also have a sheet of 6mm rubber to make new flaps! So, all being well, we should be somewhere near to being 'Melrose Ready' by tomorrow arvo.. Still contemplating removing the third front leaf that I fitted... Have a pair of 110mm x 75mm x 16mm spacers ready if I do!! :)

[Sitec]

Here's the newly painted frames in place,many all bolted up ready to carry wheels to Melrose and the Flinders tomorrow! :)

[Sitec]

And in the open position....

[Sitec]

And finally, with wheels!! :) They both fit, and clear everything!! Relief! :D

[Homestar]

Looks great! Really ticked off I won't be at Melrose though to look over it...:(

Have a bottle of wine or 3 for me....:D

[goingbush]

Looks great, what a beast, can you lift a wheel into position by yourself ??

can someone remind me when / where Melrose is again, I might still be in the area ??

[digger]

Near port augusta..


Sent from my LG-P690f using AULRO mobile app

[Sitec]

Looks great, what a beast, can you lift a wheel into position by yourself ??

can someone remind me when / where Melrose is again, I might still be in the area ??

Just north of Laura, about an hour above Clare on the east side of Mt Remarkable! :)

[Sitec]

Near port augusta..


Sent from my LG-P690f using AULRO mobile app

I believe you're here now! :D Catch up in a bit! :)

[spongie]

Y'all have fun now

[Sitec]

Looks great, what a beast, can you lift a wheel into position by yourself??

I thought this was going to be an issue, and had planned to lift them using the tractor, but one wheel was already in the rear of the 101, so I thought I'll see... With the wheel carrier in the open position, I was able to stand the wheel in the upright position on the rear tailgate, then walk around with it and sit it on the carrier. To get the second wheel onto the tailgate, I used the two jack blocks I carry and rolled it onto these, which gives it enough height to flip it onto the tailgate and then repeat the process. Worked surprisingly well!! :)

[stuee]

Very nice job on the wheel carrier. When are you going to start selling them?

:D:D:D

[Sitec]

Sad I know, but I love this Cummins!!! Its awesome off road!! SO usable!!! Seems it sounds awesome from a far too!!!! :D

[Mick_Marsh]

And the horns?

[wrinklearthur]

Sad I know, but I love this Cummins!!! Its awesome off road!! SO usable!!! Seems it sounds awesome from a far too!!!! :D

A YouTube clip coming up?

.

[350RRC]

I thought this was going to be an issue, and had planned to lift them using the tractor, but one wheel was already in the rear of the 101, so I thought I'll see... With the wheel carrier in the open position, I was able to stand the wheel in the upright position on the rear tailgate, then walk around with it and sit it on the carrier. To get the second wheel onto the tailgate, I used the two jack blocks I carry and rolled it onto these, which gives it enough height to flip it onto the tailgate and then repeat the process. Worked surprisingly well!! :)

There is always a way!

Great build, DL

[nrs91]

nicely done... professional job! and love the licence plate!

[Sitec]

Here's a small vid taken by SWMBO of us mobile Flinders Bound! :)

[Sitec]

And here's a short one of us off road! We did some of the Public Access Tracks.. Fantastic scenery and challenging tracks!! :D

[goingbush]

Yikes, front wheel is not going around !!

[mark_coffey]

enjoy your travels, you have got me keen to get mine on the road.
I had it up behind Hawker for a couple of days camping, great fun driving through the creeks and hills.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Yikes, front wheel is not going around !!

I'm guessing you've worked out the speed the tread of the tyre is moving links up to the frame rate of the video capture.
The centre step is spinning quite happily.

[Sitec]

Here's a shot of my 101 that I love!! Thanks to Redback (Baz) for taking this shot!! Loving owning another 101, and even tho it was hard to part with the 130, it was worth it!!! :D

[Mick_Marsh]

Almost Terminatorish.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/77001d1399630887-sitecs-101-image.jpg

[Sitec]

enjoy your travels, you have got me keen to get mine on the road.
I had it up behind Hawker for a couple of days camping, great fun driving through the creeks and hills.

Well... There's a deadline now.... Wombat Camp in Vic in Aug..... We're goin... U in? :)

[mark_coffey]

well I'd better pull my finger out then!
now where did I put that job list then.........

[Mick_Marsh]

well I'd better pull my finger out then!
now where did I put that job list then.........
You can pick up a spare wheel flap if you turn up.

[Sitec]

So, having covered over 5000kms now in the 101, there are a few things that need addressing. The lights, steering and ride.. I've been trying to decide wether I remove my third leaf from the front and see how it goes... Snap decision was made as I drove home from work to remove them. So an hour on the tools and the two leaves I fitted for the diesel have been replaced with two 16mm plates (to retain my sump to diff clearance). Well, that's the first niggle dealt with.. Ride height has dropped a little, but not as much as I thought.. The 101 now sits perfectly level.. I think the weight of the two rear spares and camp boxes has lifted some weight off the nose. As for on road handling.. Much better. Nice and smooth, but still stiff enough to feel what's going on. Its also eliminated a slight vibration I had at 90kph, and runs beautifully at 100kph. Next is the lighting and steering!!! :D

[stuee]

I chose the standard Narva light buckets and 7" round lights. They adapted easily to the factory mounting plates and put out very good light. These with an upgraded loom would provide a very simple/reasonable cost upgrade.

Products (http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/64/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=driving-fog-lamps-popup-layout)
Products (http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/h4-7-178mm-12v-6055w-highlow-beam-free-form-halogen-headlamp-conversion-kit/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=driving-fog-lamps-popup-layout)

You can see what they look like in my build thread. They make good work lights too :D


I'f you're going to make a new front bar and happy to spend some money maybe look at their ADR approved LED lights - they look pretty :cool:
L.E.D Headlamp Assemblies - Products - Narva (http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/led-headlamp-assemblies)

[Mick_Marsh]

Love those LED lights.

[Sitec]

Hi Stuee..
Like Mick, I love those LED lights too, but the price!!! Ouch! Originally I was going to go with the Narva ones you pictured for the outer two, and some described as 'aircraft landing lights' for the center two, but they are a sealed beam, and off road vibration put me off them, so I think I've settled on 4 of these... The 'Halo' type... which I think would look cool on the front of a big white imposing 101!!! :D. Open to opinions tho! :)
I also have this daft idea to set the lights up so that the outer two are the dipped beam, all four are on for main (inners switchable with 100+watt globes), leaving the inner dip globes free for some alternating flashing lights..... ;)

[101RRS]

I wouldn't buy those lights in the pic - I did and they are absolute crap. The halo is just one white LED in a tube so is very dull - it is not a ring of LEDs in the tube - the biggest waste of $100.

Garry

[Sitec]

So, after a few weeks away from the shed, I finally managed to get back into gear this avo!!! As winter has well and truly arrived, and the Golf has run out of rego, the 101 is the daily driver! The lighting is shocking, and something needs to be done! The bumper is back on the front burner and lights are on order!! Here's the new bumper as it stands!

[Sitec]

Here's the 4 new light support brackets.. I'll be cutting the holes out for the light buckets tomorrow. Once that's done the lower tabs will be folded, and all the holes drilled! :)

[Sitec]

Here's the center plate that'll sit under the front grille. As the center of the bumper is proud of the front of the vehicle, there's room for a truck like jaw to be sunk into the bumper. Here's the recovery hooks and pin along with the top hole! :)

[Sitec]

Here's the underside of the jaw which will be welded into place once the top plate gets welded into the center of the bumper and the hole is cut. More to follow as I get to it.

[stuee]

You need to fit a winch cradle. Otherwise I'll need to add one when I pinch it off your 101.

It looks great so far!

[Sitec]

Soooooooo, who's got a 24 volt 101 that they want to turn into a 12volt 101??... Have starter, alternator, fuel gauge, heater blower, wiper motor, coil.... What have I missed!! Or more to the point, can it be done!!? Have had an issue with one of my 2 batteries not charging... By all accounts, tapping into 12volts between to batteries set up to be 24v is not he best as I've found.. The beast failed to start last night... Just looking at options ATM! :)

[wrinklearthur]

Soooooooo, who's got a 24 volt 101 that they want to turn into a 12volt 101??... Have starter, alternator, fuel gauge, heater blower, wiper motor, coil.... What have I missed!! Or more to the point, can it be done!!? Have had an issue with one of my 2 batteries not charging... By all accounts, tapping into 12volts between to batteries set up to be 24v is not he best as I've found.. The beast failed to start last night... Just looking at options ATM! :)

Wasn't there some of the Volvo trucks with 24 volt start and then ran 12 volt ancillaries ?

Using a 24 to 12 volt invertor is a lot better than a tapping into the battery.

The light bulbs!

[Homestar]

Soooooooo, who's got a 24 volt 101 that they want to turn into a 12volt 101??... Have starter, alternator, fuel gauge, heater blower, wiper motor, coil.... What have I missed!! Or more to the point, can it be done!!? Have had an issue with one of my 2 batteries not charging... By all accounts, tapping into 12volts between to batteries set up to be 24v is not he best as I've found.. The beast failed to start last night... Just looking at options ATM! :)

What is running 12 volt and what is running 24? Assuming starter and alternator are 24 and everything else is 12? Half tapping the batteries for 12 volt is a guaranteed way of killing one battery. You are better off using a 24 to 12 volt converter for everything else and using 24 volt from your system the entire time. If you do this your batteries will last just fine. Half tapping them will kill one in months - as you've found out...:(

[Mick_Marsh]

The PO of my registered 101 centre tapped the battery to run 12V systems.
The btteries were dead when it arrived.
I used a device like this one to run the 12V systems.
24 -12V DC-DC Converter 10A - Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MP3061&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=1002#12)
It connects across the two batteries (24V) and delivers 12V.

[puma130tc]

Redarc, make a device which I believe is called a charge equaliser, to over come this issue, but don't hold me to it.
Also their bc-dc chargers can have a 24 volt input and output a 12volt charge.
I'm going to run 24volt start and charge then run into one of the redarc products, possibly their BMS system to charge whatever 12 volt deep cycle batteries I decide to use for all other functions.
Only down side is I may end up with 4 batteries and expensive.
On the up side, gives me many options if I'm away and I should have a problem, these systems are also good for solar input as and I seem to recall the BMS can deal with 240volt input as well.
Great reliability.
Anyway, that's my penny's worth.
I'd leave yours as 24volt, get a charge equaliser and continue onwards.
I have some 24 to 12 volt converters if you decide to go that way, give me a yell.

[Sitec]

Redarc, make a device which I believe is called a charge equaliser...
I'd leave yours as 24volt, get a charge equaliser and continue onwards.


Cheers Pete. Sounds like a plan. With a 12v battery charger, I'd have to carry a third battery as I don't think it'd run headlights etc! :)

[Sitec]

Here's bumper progress this avo. The front jaw and top plate are in!! :)

[spongie]

Really no winch???

[nrs91]

lookin the dogs Si!

[Sitec]

Really no winch???

Not on the front.... Future plans for a hydraulic under floor winch mounted at the rear.. With the spares and winch at the back, and Cummins up front it should be nicely balanced! :)

[DasLandRoverMan]

Needs a Land Rover MK II hydraulic setup then.
50 year old design, but an absolutely dogs bollocks one. As it happens I know a lad who re conditions them.

[Sitec]

Needs a Land Rover MK II hydraulic setup then.
50 year old design, but an absolutely dogs bollocks one. As it happens I know a lad who re conditions them.

Plan on using a 2 speed 15000lb Runva winch.. Will fab a tank. Already have the PTO and pump that came with the ZF box.. :)

[bed_bug]

All very exiting at your end then, Loving the mods once again. I had a battery balancer from the states. It did what it said and you could use the centre tap to its full potential and it moved charge either way to rebalance. Don't have the details to hand but if you need the details let me know. Steve

[Sitec]

All very exiting at your end then, Loving the mods once again. I had a battery balancer from the states. It did what it said and you could use the centre tap to its full potential and it moved charge either way to rebalance. Don't have the details to hand but if you need the details let me know. Steve

Cheers Steve. I've since had a long chat with a few who've had this issue.. Am going to go 12 volt throughout.. I have a large 24 volt start box off a tractor so can run all 12v and just turn key start 24 volt. Cheers tho. :)

[Sitec]

Well, we've had an awesome Long Weekend!! We've covered 650kms in the 101... A large part of that was at 100kph and 110kph. The rest of it was all low box work in some very soft sand!!! 42 Mile Crossing and the surrounds!! We conquered!! Here's a shot of us getting off the beach.. We had to go back along the top track on a rescue mission!! :D

[Sitec]

Widows from one of the top tracks... :)

[Sitec]

Then it was on down to The Granites and Kingstone SE. Beautiful spot. And the tide was out.. 1'st gear low and a crawl so as not to mark the rocks and a great photo op was found! Sadly when we returned the following morning, we could see someone else had had a go (probably in a car judging by the towbar hole in the sand!!) and left rubber.. Bit of water and a brush had that gone tho! :)

[Sitec]

SWMBO was not exactly enamoured with the whole idea!! :D

[Epic_Dragon]

these are awesome piccies :D

[Sitec]

these are awesome piccies :D

Thank!! There were some fantastic things to look at down there!! These shells were in piles at the top of every crest on 42 Mile Crossing.. Each crest was only 100' apart!! Lots of shells... Soft too!! :D

[isuzurover]

Well, we've had an awesome Long Weekend!! We've covered 650kms in the 101... A large part of that was at 100kph and 110kph. The rest of it was all low box work in some very soft sand!!! 42 Mile Crossing and the surrounds!! We conquered!! Here's a shot of us getting off the beach.. We had to go back along the top track on a rescue mission!! :D

I love that 101.

Do you find it digs in in soft sand with that heavy motor? I find my IIA goes better in soft sand than my isuzu powered 110 - I think mainly because of the lighter engine and lighter overall weight of the IIA - even though it only has about 1/3 the power and torque.

[Sitec]

I love that 101.

Do you find it digs in in soft sand with that heavy motor? I find my IIA goes better in soft sand than my isuzu powered 110 - I think mainly because of the lighter engine and lighter overall weight of the IIA - even though it only has about 1/3 the power and torque.

Its not that bad to be honest, I aired down from 45psi to 20psi, and managed to keep moving where the Rodeo and Pathfinder we were with got bogged. The torque was awesome, the other two were running in 2nd or third low with engines working, and we were running at about 1200rpm in 5th low most of the time. I could have probably gone lower with the tyres but only struggled once (in the first pic). This was more a bit of 'too much right foot' when I was needing to get to higher ground so as to be able to extract the Rodeo who faltered on the lower ground.. The tide was coming in, and we decided to camp soon after!! The XZL's are a bit to lugged to be ideal in the sand, and I'd be interested to see what a similar sized truck tyre would do... :)

[Sitec]

We are all a bit quiet in 101 corner of late eh... So I thought I'd do a bit more today and change that. My 101 is currently off the road at the mo, as there's little point pounding around the country when I have a small diesel car in the shed! So, with it off the road, I can get on with a few jobs before the next adventure over to Wombat! One thing I've learned is that even with the front axle hard on the bump stops when stationary, the front prop clears the bell housing (just), but there's obviously a fair bit of movement when its pounding thru dunes etc, because it manages to touch occasionally.... Not good! So, I've a bit of dye grinding to do! I've also got a few oils to change, a bit more sound proofing, wheels to swap around, etc. one job that does need doing is a lighting upgrade. So with that in mind, it was off with the front bumper!!! :D

[Sitec]

I have on order 4 new headlight buckets, and 4 7" headlight assys, so will be able to upgrade to some decent lighting. Here's the new bumper roughly sighted in place. :)

[Sitec]

Here's a shot from the side. The flat bit on top lends itself to a hoop/light bar that will follow the shape of the grill and maybe carry a couple of spotties or a light bar. Still undecided as to wether a Light Bar would look out of place on a 101. They are good tho!

[roobar_and_custard]

When I first saw the bar, I reckoned it would really detract from the simple lines of a 101 and I've never been a fan of a 4 light set up.

But now I see it in-situ, it really adds presence. You've pulled it off again.

Great work.
Ian.

[Sitec]

Back into it for a few hours today. I've drilled all the holes in the new headlight buckets. Here's one with a new headlight assy loosely fitted. The good thing is that the original surround slides over the new holder, so it should look 'right'! Due to my battery discharge issue, I'm going with 4 x 100w Main Beams on a 24 volt circuit. Should b able to see stuff now!!!! :D

[Sitec]

I'm also bringing each light unit slightly further forward than the originals, it suits the tapered section of the bumper better. If I leave them in the original position, they look too recessed.

[Sitec]

Ok, as the bumper is now stepped out in the middle, it gives me room for an 'A' bar... I've tacked one together, which follows the line of the front grill outer edge. I have another two bends, and had planned to do a similar bar hung below the bumper that's only about 120mm below it, but the same width as the one above. The lower bar would be tapered back to match the slope and would hide the fronts of the front leaf springs... BUT... I can't decide if I like it yet or not, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is it overkill or does it work in with my new bumper????? Honest opinions please! :D. I plan to temporarily bolt all the lights in Mon/Tue eve to help with my decision!!

[Homestar]

Personally, I like it a lot.:). The A bar gives the whole thing a meatier appearance.

[Brute]

A bar looks good,

[roobar_and_custard]

Yep. Go with the bar. :D

[JayBoRover]

I'm not quite as convinced as the others seem to be. I keep wondering if it would look better in square or rectangular section with squared off corners to keep in character of all the squared off angles of the 101. The only thing is I also wonder if that will change when other "round" bits get added, like the lights and a winch fairlead if that's going on one day:confused:. I suspect that you're feeling the same, because the obvious answer to resolve this is to put the other lights on which is exactly what you've said you're going to do to help your decision process.
I'll be happy to see how it looks with all the lights temporarily bolted in and then decide:cool:.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Doesn't look right to me as is, almost out of place.

Might be better with all the other bits attached, but at the moment I'd suggest something more like what's on the front of Rons truck as an aesthetic baseline.

[stuee]

I think I like it better without the A-bar. Its a very convenient place to mount lights but doesn't fit in with the look of the vehicle IMO - its very round while everything else is very boxy.

I dont know if a simple square or rectangular section will do the trick, almost a custom made section with angles to suite the main bar.

[Homestar]

Well, has that made your decision easier Simon? 3 for and 3 against...:D

[Mick_Marsh]

Don't listen to them, Simon, it looks good.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/1055.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/PICT0006.jpg.html)

Just make sure you can still remove the grill easily.

[JayBoRover]

Mick's shown exactly what I was trying to say. With a whole bunch of added "round" stuff it breaks up the square lines and the rounded 'A' bar suddenly makes sense. But it's the combination of the cammo paint, round lights, including the indicators, the round head of the shovel, rounded handles, even the protection bar that wraps around the side near the indicators isn't squared off.
Note that the sides don't have anything rounded so the wheel arch flares are squared off. The ADF has a fine eye. ;)

[Mick_Marsh]

And here's me thinking it looked good.

[Sitec]

Hmmmm.. Well, I'm going to fit the lights and tack the bottom rail in place then post another pic.... Mine will end up white eventually, with Satin black features like the bumper, wheel centers, tanks, hinges and poss twin front snorkels (but only if I can get it to look right!!) :D

[Sitec]

So, here's a pic with the 4 lights resting in place, and both tube bars tacked in situ. I think I've made my decision, but lets see what you all think now!? :)

[Sitec]

And another from a slightly different angle!

[Mick_Marsh]

I'd remove the starting handle clips then.......

Sweeeeet!

[Brute]

Looks good Simon.

[Nick S]

I like the top bar and the lower one being wider and swept back looks great, well done as usual Simon

[JayBoRover]

Told ya it would look better with some other round stuff around! Paint some smiley faces around the place - looks good!:D

[67hardtop]

COOOOOOOOOOOOL

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[Homestar]

Damn, that bar looks good with the lights in it. Get a coat of paint on it - it will look awesome.

Are you taking orders? They should have come out the factory with 4 lights.

Can't wait for Wombat so I can get up close and personal with it...:D

[Yorkie]

Like. :)
You tidied the shed then?. ;)

[bed_bug]

It's good with me, keep experimenting pushing the boundaries. I wonder what we'd all be saying if LR had produced it as a variant?

[Sitec]

So, with GG up and gone early, I found myself wide awake.. The workshop was calling. Plan to finish the bumper today and get some primer on it. Here's a pic of the side step, just tacked up ATM, think it'll work ok. :)

[JayBoRover]

So, with GG up and gone early, I found myself wide awake.. The workshop was calling. Plan to finish the bumper today and get some primer on it. Here's a pic of the side step, just tacked up ATM, think it'll work ok. :)
The side step looks great:cool:. Is the tyre going to clear the side step if you're turning and the suspension is squatted up? It looks like it might get very close:eek:.

[Sitec]

The side step looks great:cool:. Is the tyre going to clear the side step if you're turning and the suspension is squatted up? It looks like it might get very close:eek:.

Poor camera work! There's actually about 150mm clearance, so should b fine! :)

Here's a shot of the bumper, with all the welding done, holes for relays etc drilled, so after a bit of a clean up, there'll b some primer in the air in my shed this avo!! :)

[101RRS]

Are those foot steps going to be much use?

I would have thought they are too far forward to be much assistance getting into the cab - but then I have never tried them as the wheel step works OK for me.

Garry

[Sitec]

Are those foot steps going to be much use?

I would have thought they are too far forward to be much assistance getting into the cab - but then I have never tried them as the wheel step works OK for me.

Garry

For me, no... But for my wife trying to get out... Yes... Its quite entertaining to watch, as coordination is not high on the cards!! ;)

[slug_burner]

A bit late now but I think that the bumper bar needed to project out in the center that way the A bar could have benn a bit further forward instead of what looks like flat against the grill.

Aesthetics of a 101 are in the eye of the beholder, round bar or square bar a bit like trying to determine what colour lipstick to put on a pig.

[Mick_Marsh]

Great work Simon. I can see those steps would be very handy.

Aesthetics of a 101 are in the eye of the beholder, round bar or square bar a bit like trying to determine what colour lipstick to put on a pig.
Rouge, of course.

[Sitec]

Here's a shot of fresh paint! It had tacked off nicely an hour ago (with a little help from the diesel fired Demon Heater). All being well, I'll bolt it on tomorrow eve!

[Sitec]

And here it is in place!!! Well, Im happy with it!! :)

[Sitec]

Here's a pic of the integral step. They will be useful for SWMBO!! :D So, after Wombat, I think it might be Hardtop Time!!! :)

[puma130tc]

Looking great simon!

[nrs91]

dogs danglies buddy! get cummins logos on them front downies ;)

[slug_burner]

Good job.

[Sitec]

Right.... The bumper is on and done.. All lights hooked up and tested.. The light is good, but I have an earthing issue, soooooo electrical whizzzzz's out there.. What's my prob? I have 4 halogen main/dip globes. I've wired up only the outer two to work on dip beam (as I believe 4 dips are illegal), and the 4 main beams come on together. When on dipped beam the inner two globes glow slightly. All 4 earths are hooked to two known decent points. When on Main Beam, I touch the two unused inner light dip beam wires to an earth, the light becomes a lot brighter. All joints are soldered, and wired up correctly. Is it poor quality globes, or should I be re checking the earths? Even with the slight issue, the light is awesome!!!! Wombat here we come!!! :D

[bee utey]

Right.... The bumper is on and done.. All lights hooked up and tested.. The light is good, but I have an earthing issue, soooooo electrical whizzzzz's out there.. What's my prob? I have 4 halogen main/dip globes. I've wired up only the outer two to work on dip beam (as I believe 4 dips are illegal), and the 4 main beams come on together. When on dipped beam the inner two globes glow slightly. All 4 earths are hooked to two known decent points. When on Main Beam, I touch the two unused inner light dip beam wires to an earth, the light becomes a lot brighter. All joints are soldered, and wired up correctly. Is it poor quality globes, or should I be re checking the earths? Even with the slight issue, the light is awesome!!!! Wombat here we come!!! :D

Have you wired them correctly? With the globe's base facing you, earth is on the left, low is up in the middle and high is on the right. If you've swapped the earth and high pins you would get normal high beams but the 2 working lows would earth via the 4 main filaments. Shorting the extra lows would provide a 3 filament earth path per high beam filament so brighter.

[bed_bug]

I also think , possibly, on all four globes, you have got the earth wires transposed with either a dip or main wire. The electricity is entering a filament but instead of passing to earths after that it is having to pass through another filament.

To avoid wrecking your wiring. I would, with all due respect suggest


Remove all of the lamps from their sockets. Use 3 short pieces of wires with Male crimps on one end and females on the other to permit you to extend the lamp wires out of the plug and swap the around on the lamp. Connect up only one of the lamps, like this, that is doing both Dip and Main.

now Simply try out all the permutations of connections and you will find the right ones.

You can't do any harm unless you short the wires .

[wrinklearthur]

If your worried about the earth wire at the lights, arrange a voltmeter to measure between the battery earth terminal and the earth wire on the lights.

With the headlights on, there should be no voltage reading between those two points and if there is a voltage shown, move one of the meter probes to the next joint in the current path until you find where the fault is.
.

[Sitec]

Thanks guys.. :) JayboRover also suggested a wire on a globe wrong... Having thought about it, I should have checked each light plug and not just relied on wire colours.. Each light came with a pre wired globe socket.... and stupidly I assumed they were right... Two of the 7" lights went back as they were faulty!!!! So there's a fair chance the wires are incorrect too!!!!

[107gus]

Not an earthing issue on the 101 :p

Bumper looks awesome!

[nrs91]

sounds good mate, 4dipped beam is legal in UK, dunno about your side of the earth lol

[Sitec]

Well, with a long journey looming, this weekend is being spent checking things over, and sound proofing. First job was to remove the vacuum pump and re seal the rear cover as over the last few months its deposited its oil all over the front of the engine. That fixed and it was time for a refit and test. All good!!

[Sitec]

And onto the soundproofing.. I've tested several materials for flammability, and alarmingly all the cheep $70 rolls of under bonnet soundproofing catch fire quite quickly!!! Even some multi layer silver backed 20mm thick stuff we have at work will burn with relative ease. The material I've ended up using is 6mmm thick mud flap rubber. Its durable, seems to have great soundproofing qualities and surprisingly wouldn't light when I held a lighter against it!!!! It just powderised. Here's a pic of the blanket I've shaped and fitted between the engine and us!!!! With the cover in place and the token blanket on top, its actually reasonably quiet on the road. At 100kph you can chat with the person in the left seat, so Im happy with it!!!
Tomorrow it'll be prop greasing, transfer case and diff oil changes, all other levels checked etc. load the camping gear etc and fuel up!! I have to do it all tomorrow, as Im headed to the top of SA Tue/Wed delivering a tractor!!

[nrs91]

looks good mate! you cant talk at 100kph in a standard 101 so youve done well ;)
looks proper mate! quite envious haha

[101RRS]

I went to a house insulation seller and bought a sheet of fibreglass material for $40. It is like a board about 1.5" thick - it is not fluffy like roof insulation. I lined the inside of the engine cover and the gearbox cover. I just glued it on and then glued aluminium sarking material to the insulation and used aluminium tape to seal the edges.

Works great.

Garry