Sitec's 101..

[Sitec]

Oh crap!!! New this would happen... Just been offered $30000 for the 101.... :o

[Homestar]

Oh crap!!! New this would happen... Just been offered $30000 for the 101.... :o

Tell 'em to jamb it. Worth a lot more with that engine and box, and with all the other work you've done.

A top condition standard V8 is going for almost that now. I wouldn't sell mine for that, and it's a way short of yours...

Tell them $60,000 and meet in the middle...;)

And, if you sell it before next weekend when I can finally take a look at it, I'll drive to your place and beat you senseless... :D

[JayBoRover]

The value of them is getting up there huh!:eek: Obviously I'm well aware of that, as I just paid close to that for one ... although already I wouldn't sell it for that! I think I paid top dollar for an almost top unit - I didn't get a bargain but didn't get ripped off, so both seller and buyer are (hopefully) happy:).

I have to agree with Gav though, with that engine slotted in there and the stuff you've sorted (twin spare wheel carriers, fuel tanks, twin headlight bar, etc, etc, etc) it seems to me that $30k wouldn't be quite there. I can see the temptation for you though with other projects lying around and the potential house project stuff. Life is full of tough choices:confused:.

[Homestar]

Spot on John, good, well sorted standard units are worth nearly that. You didn't get ripped off by any measure. Any 101 that can be bought, then driven 3,500KM without issue is a well sorted unit and worth the dollars. I wouldn't sell mine for $30K, it's doubtful I'd sell mine for twice that. It's a vehicle I'll have for a loooooooooong time. Nothing else I've owned puts a smile on my face every time I see it and drive it. It's the first thing I see when I get home from work, and I always smile when I walk past it to the front door.:). Even the Missus and Pugs don't make me smile like that.

For ****s sake, don't tell Yvonne that...:eek:

[Sitec]

Don't worry guys... Tho $30k wud be handy right now, the 101 is going no where!!! :) Even SWMBO cracked the ****s and said NO!! :D

[101RRS]

Irrespective of prices that 101s have recently made this one is probably a bit more realistic, and it has history.

Landrover 101 Forward Control GS in Manly, NSW | eBay

[JayBoRover]

I was just looking at that one on evilBay and came in here to mention it - you beat me to it:).
No winch and no tools on the nose, but otherwise it looks reasonable from the few pic's. I've added to my watch list to see how it goes for price - could be interesting.

[Sitec]

Ok, so this morning at Bordertown the 101 started but only just.. So here we are in Horsham having had brekie and have swapped the batteries over so the flat 12v side is now the outer 24v battery and vice versa. The good thing is we stopped at Maccas next door to 'Daryl Robertson's Auto Electrical' and he's fast charging the flat battery! Gotta love that for service! Still on track for Wombat!!:)

[Outback 1]

Is the battery the problem or the charging system

Sent from my GT-S7275Y using AULRO mobile app

[DoubleChevron]

Ok, so this morning at Bordertown the 101 started but only just.. So here we are in Horsham having had brekie and have swapped the batteries over so the flat 12v side is now the outer 24v battery and vice versa. The good thing is we stopped at Maccas next door to 'Daryl Robertson's Auto Electrical' and he's fast charging the flat battery! Gotta love that for service! Still on track for Wombat!!:)

If you make it to ballarat, I have a battery charger you can borrow. Sadly 8amp is the biggest.

[Mick_Marsh]

You're not centre tapping for a 12v supply, are you?

[101RRS]

You're not centre tapping for a 12v supply, are you?

I hope not too - that is a definite no no

[roobar_and_custard]

Sounds like it...:(

What you need is a good 24V-12V DC-DC convertor or a 24V-12V battery charger for a 3rd 12v only battery.

Heading up tomorrow arvo - if you need anything brought up - let me know.
Ian.

[Sitec]

Well. We're back!! All in all a very good trip!!! Great to get 5 101's together!! Next year we have to beat the record of 11 together... If we start working on it now we have a chance!! As for center tapping... Yup, I know that now.. Have the options of what I have to do, but to be honest I think going totally 24v is the way for me. Will do a bit more thinkin tho! :)

[101RRS]

Have the options of what I have to do, but to be honest I think going totally 24v is the way for me. Will do a bit more thinkin tho! :)

You really have one of 5 options:

1. Go all 24v and use small 24v to 12v converters for some 12v gear. 24v 101s did this for some of their OEM 12v stuff like the fuel pump.

2. Convert to 12v - can you get a 12v starter etc for your engine.

3. Sling a second 12v alternator onto the engine - I have a $50 65amp Bosch on my 101 to just charge the 12v aux deep cycle battery.

4. Use a 24v to 12v DC to DC smart battery charger to charge a 12v aux battery - I have a 60amp on ready to go into my truck to replace the 12v alt.

5. Use hi amp battery equalizer between your two 12v batteries in your 24v starter pack. This will allow you to tap off one battery without wrecking them. These are expensive though.

Something to think about.

Garry

[slug_burner]

You could also use two batteries and some switching gear to change from two batteries in series for your starter but otherwise the batteries are in parallel for charging and to support your 12 volt loads. The 12 v loads can be maintained on one battery all the time. You need the switching gear to handle the starting current, for a 24 volt starter should draw less current than a 12 volt one.

Unnecessary complexity? Academic exercise? Lowest cost option? A flexible system? Your choice!

[Sitec]

You could also use two batteries and some switching gear to change from two batteries in series for your starter but otherwise the batteries are in parallel for charging and to support your 12 volt loads. The 12 v loads can be maintained on one battery all the time. You need the switching gear to handle the starting current, for a 24 volt starter should draw less current than a 12 volt one.

Unnecessary complexity? Academic exercise? Lowest cost option? A flexible system? Your choice!

Yeah, this was the option I was going to take if I don't stay 24v.. There's a 'magic box' badged Monarch Diesel that allows a vehicle to be 12v with two batteries, but when the key is turned gives 24v to the starter. I would have to loose the 24v alternator tho, and the 24v headlights which are awesome!!! Still thinkin!! :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Keep it 24V. What loads have you got that are 12V?

[Sitec]

Keep it 24V. What loads have you got that are 12V?

Wipers, sidelights, fuel gauge, heater motor, flasher relay....

[Mick_Marsh]

Wipers, sidelights, fuel gauge, heater motor, flasher relay....
Ah! So it was originally a 12V unit.
Go the magic box and put 12V globes in your headlights.

[101RRS]

Will the 24v starter turn on 12v and if it does is there enough oomph to start the engine? I assume it has glow plugs and will these work on 12v - albiet if starter or glow plugs work on 12v they will pull a lot of amps so a bigger CCA 12v battery might be needed.

Of course they might not work at all but you never never know unless you try. If they do just stay on 12v with a big CCA.

Garry

[Sitec]

Will the 24v starter turn on 12v and if it does is there enough oomph to start the engine? I assume it has glow plugs and will these work on 12v - albiet if starter or glow plugs work on 12v they will pull a lot of amps so a bigger CCA 12v battery might be needed.

Of course they might not work at all but you never never know unless you try. If they do just stay on 12v with a big CCA.

Garry

No glow plugs as its direct injection. Turns over nicely on 24v and starts instantly. Doubtful if it'd turn over on 12 v, but like the reassuring instantaneous fire up of 24v (even at -7 in Wombat!). I already have the magic box so will prob go down that route. :)

[wrinklearthur]

Yeah, this was the option I was going to take if I don't stay 24v.. There's a 'magic box' badged Monarch Diesel that allows a vehicle to be 12v with two batteries, but when the key is turned gives 24v to the starter. I would have to loose the 24v alternator tho, and the 24v headlights which are awesome!!! Still thinkin!! :)

Reminds me of fixing electrical problems in 24/12 volt Volvo trucks.

By the time they came to me, they couldn't keep fuses in them, with the wiring it was a rats nest, I found in nearly all cases they had bypassed the original fault with some extra wire and when mostly all that was wrong was that the relays had dust in them and the relay contacts couldn't close properly.

Once everything was sorted, with a wheel barrow full of wire taken out, those Truck's started well, all the ancillaries worked and had strong headlights.

.

[101RRS]

No glow plugs as its direct injection.

Hmm I don't understand the link between the two - in my limited experience with diesels - both were Direct Injection and had glow plugs.

Garry

[Sitec]

Hmm I don't understand the link between the two - in my limited experience with diesels - both were Direct Injection and had glow plugs.

Garry

Ok, simply put, (left pic) a direct injection Diesel engine has the injector directly atop the piston, giving better economy and better starting, and seldom require glow plugs. Drawback, they're noisy, have a crisp louder sound to them.... (Tdi engine, Cummins engines, Cat engines)

An indirect injection diesel (Right Pic) has a pre combustion chamber which the injector sprays into. Advantages, they're quieter (2.286 Land Rover Diesel, most Kubota Diesels). Disadvantages... Less fuel efficient, poor starters, and require glow plugs.

[Sitec]

Common rail diesels are usually direct injection, but instead of having a mechanical timed fuel pump that delivers fuel out at high pressure thru 4 separate lines controlled by a linkage to you're foot, they have an engine driven high pressure pump that continuously supplies a 'Common rail' with fuel. The injectors use this fuel as demand requires.. Each injector is controlled by the ECU, so fuel can be delivered at any time and in any specified amount making them very fuel efficient, assisting with noise reduction, adjusting injection time dependant on engine temp etc.. Great, but technical and full of electrickery.. Not something Im a fan of!!

[Sitec]

The Td5 is different again in that each injector is also a fuel pump.... The overhead camshaft operates a plunger on each injector (the bit that looks a bit like half a push rod), fuel is taken and returned thru the small holes around the body of the injector from a sort of low pressure common rail (which is cast into the cylinder head). With the engine running, all injectors are acting like pumps as well as injection. The injectors are controlled in a similar way to common rail injectors using pulses from the ECU to meter the amount injected. The td5 issue is that the wires controlling the injectors are internal under the rocker cover covered in oil.. They have a habit of soaking the oil up then shorting causing inaccurate readings which in turn causes a misfire. Hope this all makes sense!

[wrinklearthur]

----- An indirect injection diesel (Right Pic) has a pre combustion chamber which the injector sprays into. -----

Disadvantages... Less fuel efficient ------

You have rocked one of my long held beliefs to core.

I always thought when hot, the precombustion chambered Diesels had better economy than the Direct injection Diesels. :o

[DoubleChevron]

No glow plugs as its direct injection. Turns over nicely on 24v and starts instantly. Doubtful if it'd turn over on 12 v, but like the reassuring instantaneous fire up of 24v (even at -7 in Wombat!). I already have the magic box so will prob go down that route. :)

I heard one of the 101's trying to start out at the wombat state forest. I think I even commented to someone "that's got no compression at all".... Nope, it was a 24volt starter, it cranked the motor so hard and so fast, you'd swear someone had whipped the plugs out. You'd also be drawing way less current from the batteries at 24volts (well pretty much half the current for the same power).

seeya,
Shane L.

[Dougal]

No glow plugs as its direct injection. Turns over nicely on 24v and starts instantly.

You mean no glow plugs because it's a cummins b series. They use a glow screen on the intake for cold climates.
They start fine on 12v. All the dodge cummins are 12v.

[nrs91]

the 6BT does have grid heaters in extreme cold but over here in the UK we dont have any cold start on them, just turn the key and they pop to life in -5degC
"The Big Purple One" 12v Cummins 6BT Land Rover 90 Cold Start After a Month - YouTube (http://youtu.be/aPL7X-FgHds?list=UUC-2n5q1vbzuvyLZ72lAd7g)

[Dougal]

the 6BT does have grid heaters in extreme cold but over here in the UK we dont have any cold start on them, just turn the key and they pop to life in -5degC
"The Big Purple One" 12v Cummins 6BT Land Rover 90 Cold Start After a Month - YouTube (http://youtu.be/aPL7X-FgHds?list=UUC-2n5q1vbzuvyLZ72lAd7g)
The isuzu is the same. Even in - 10c it starts fine, just takes a minute to smooth out. I have glow plugs, just never hooked them up.

The grid heaters are an airflow restriction so better without if you can still start.

Are you 12v or 24?
My isuzu is 24v start and uses a series /parallel switch for starting.

[nrs91]

The isuzu is the same. Even in - 10c it starts fine, just takes a minute to smooth out. I have glow plugs, just never hooked them up.

The grid heaters are an airflow restriction so better without if you can still start.

Are you 12v or 24?
My isuzu is 24v start and uses a series /parallel switch for starting.

only 12v on mine, wouldnt mind one of those change overs and id shove a 24v starter back on

[Sitec]

only 12v on mine, wouldnt mind one of those change overs and id shove a 24v starter back on

Nick, if I can find it I have one here (dads place in The UK). PM me and I'll dig it out and try and get it to u over the next few weeks.

[nrs91]

Nick, if I can find it I have one here (dads place in The UK). PM me and I'll dig it out and try and get it to u over the next few weeks.

tar buddy!

[buffaroo]

Just out of curiosity what airbox/filter did you use, have gone through the tread but couldn't find it ?

[Sitec]

Just out of curiosity what airbox/filter did you use, have gone through the tread but couldn't find it ?

Hi fella. I used the standard filter in the standard place.. Its got a 4" outlet, so I used a 4" to 3" 90deg reducer then two exhaust 90's welded together to get round to the turbo.. Picture should help.. Contemplating a Cummins then? ;)

There's a separate thread "Monster 6 Turbo Diesel into 101", should b a pic in there...

[buffaroo]

No, thinking the box/filter I used is a bit restrictive. If the standard box works for you, it's bound to supply enough air for my puny engine lol

[Sitec]

No, thinking the box/filter I used is a bit restrictive. If the standard box works for you, it's bound to supply enough air for my puny engine lol

Yeah, the std 101 air filter is like those found on Tractors/trucks.. Should be fine up to 6 litre. Tdi fitment? :)

[buffaroo]

Yes, used a turbo diesel one my friend had lying around. But beginning to wonder if its a little restrictive.

[spongie]

I've got the standard 101 filter on mine the only issue I forsee is tidily joining the 4" filter to the 2" turbo

[buffaroo]

95mm to 76mm 90 degree elbow then 76mm to 60mm reducer 😉

[Sitec]

I've got the standard 101 filter on mine the only issue I forsee is tidily joining the 4" filter to the 2" turbo

As Buffaroo says, reducers!!! Ebay has loads.. Just type in silicon reducers. I also used a lot of mandrill bent exhaust sections to make up pipes that look original. The intercooler pipework is the same.. It takes a lot of time but its worth it with the finished product... Here's my RH intercooler pipe in the manufacturing (try it and c if it fits) stage!!!! :D

Remember tho, if you do make any tubes like this, to clean out each welded joint internally before you add the next one!! I dragged several rags thru each and shook a handful of bolts in each tube to remove any swarf before cleaning out with petrol!

[spongie]

Reducer after reducer looks crap though :(

[Sitec]

If my memory serves me right, the turbo is on the left of your engine... Have a 4" to 3" 90 deg reducer coming off the air box facing forward, into a 3" pipe.. Run it to the turbo inlet, ideally at 90 deg to the inlet. Then use a 3" to 2" 90 deg reducer into the turbo. It'll look tidy, especially if u use blue hoses, and spray the pipe up in silver (not a garish galvy silver).. It'll tie in nicely with the orange.... :)

[spongie]

It'll be black or orange silicone and stainless tube

[Sitec]

So, fellow 101ers, what are my 6 101 rims wrapped in Michelin 255/100 R16's worth? Two of them r still new.... Im going to go down the 19.5" rim and truck tyre route as I seem to be doing decent kms....

[DasLandRoverMan]

New Michelins are £200-300 each, rims perhaps 50 to 70 each.

Let's say between £1500-£2160 in UK money?

[goingbush]

So, fellow 101ers, what are my 6 101 rims wrapped in Michelin 255/100 R16's worth? Two of them r still new.... Im going to go down the 19.5" rim and truck tyre route as I seem to be doing decent kms....

Just looking at the picture I noticed that heavy weight , you should think about tyre beads

ABC Beads ® | Tyre Balancing Beads Australia (http://www.abcbeads.com.au)

I have them in my Iveco and have never driven a smoother vehicle, totally vibration free, and Im running 35" MT's .

I went away from truck tyres because they are very stiff in the sidewalls , you have to run them at too high a pressure, (~100psi) but I run the 35's at 35psi , much better ride & I rarely have to let them down , downside is the MT's only last 35,000km

[Sitec]

downside is the MT's only last 35,000km

That's the other reason for going to truck tyres... :)

[Sitec]

Interesting day today.... The wheels/tyres I was going to buy are not as described!! There's only three drive tyres instead of 7, and 3 steers instead of 1... No deal! Add to that a bit more research on prices and it would seem that the cost of a decent 285/70 R19.5 drive tyre is up at similar costs to the Michelin 255/100 R16's at around $700!! They're also slightly smaller in diameter.

The tyre I actually need is a 305/70 R19.5, and these need a 9" wide rim (seems these are as rare as chooks teeth) although the tyres are slightly cheeper at the $400/$500 mark...

Also had a chat with our 101 man, and he doubts I'd get $4000 for my 6 101 rims and tyres (2 of which are new). Best I wear them out then!!

Anyone have any other suggestions?

[stuee]

If it was my money and I was going down the custom rim route I would get 17x9's and push for 37" radials. If your doing loads of kilometres I'd get all terrains, if you had a range like the rest of us, mud terrains.

Otherwise I'm quite happy with my John Craddock 16x8 rims and 315/75R16's STT's.

If your concerned about kilometers you could opt for the coopers with a warranty and chase the 80k out of them, my experience with the AT3's on dads patrol was that they were very hard tyres though. The Maxis all terrains that replaced them were much softer and more comfortable but are not lasting nearly as long.

[Sitec]

The trouble with 17" rims is they still don't give me enough room for decent brakes. I hear u tho. BFG do a good 37" tyre too.

[JayBoRover]

With the speed your rig is capable of, why worry about the wheel brakes and just graft some electric spoilers on it that pop out under brakes over 140kph:eek::D. Or maybe a chute system with a reel so you can wind it back in between activations:p.

[spongie]

Forward facing retro rockets. Decelerate by accelerating the other way ;-)

[67hardtop]

Forward facing retro rockets. Decelerate by accelerating the other way ;-)

:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[goingbush]

Anyone have any other suggestions?

have you checked out OPW's tyres, they supply a bit of the OKA market

the TRXUS MT is a good touring tyre , also with prices up there but might have a size and load rating to suit.
Tyres :: Interco Tyres :: TRXUS MT - OPW - Offroad Performance Warehouse - 1300 OPW 4X4 (http://opw.com.au/tyres/interco/trxus-mt-page-3.html)

Also the TOYO open country 37x13.5R17 is on my short list , Saw an Earthcruiser Iveco with a set on and it made my 35x12.5's looks small

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/794.jpg

[Sitec]

So I get this email today from a gentleman on here titled 'found you a trailer'.... Within 10 min Id bought it too!!!! Oops!!!! ;). Cheers again for the tip off!!

[Mick_Marsh]

You did me a favour, you stopped me from buying it.
Pity it wasn't up a week ago. John is up in Canberra. I could have given him my pintle so he could tow it back to here. I could have then taken it to SA.

[Sitec]

Another weekend of decent kms in the 101... Barossa to Pinaroo, south on the Border track to Bordertown and then home!! :)

[Sitec]

And this is the hottest it got.. and that was only after I turned it off! :D

[Sitec]

And then we called in to a mates farm for a play on the dunes!! I was gob smacked as to where I could get on road pressures!!!

[Sitec]

A chilled sun avo on Goolwa Beach, watching the world go by, having had a night in the forest! Love it! :)

[cooee]

great photos on sand hills look really impressive look like great place bbq
and few beers
cheers cooee

[nrs91]

A chilled sun avo on Goolwa Beach, watching the world go by, having had a night in the forest! Love it! :)

awesome mate!

[oka374]

So what sort of economy are you getting out of the cummins in general touring use with a mixture of road and 4wd?
thanks
Peter

[Sitec]

Hi Peter. If I take it steady, its about 12/100, but flogging around locally as I usually do, it would be nearer 14 to 15/100. Still a lot better than the V8 was! :)

[jakeslouw]

A chilled sun avo on Goolwa Beach, watching the world go by, having had a night in the forest! Love it! :)

Grrrrr is there an UNTHANK button? :)

[oka374]

I meant to add that you might be better to stick with the 16" rims and fit 35" or larger 4wd type tyres as they give far better ride and handling plus they actually bag when deflated.
When I bought the Oka it had 16" splits with the 255/16 Michelins, rode like a dray and handles like a pig. Fitted 16" alloys and 315/16 Hankooks and the difference was unbelievable, handles and rides much better plus tyres are easily obtainable in remote areas even if you have to drop a size or two to keep going.

[Sitec]

Well, another 700 kms covered in the 101. Took it a little steadier on the way down to 42 mile crossing and managed to return 11.5lt per 100km!! :) Here's the setup for the last few nights.

[Sitec]

A little vid of the beach as we headed up to camp.

[Sitec]

Attempting to source dinner for the evening...

[Sitec]

And then cooking the chicken that we brought with us!! :D

[Mick_Marsh]

Where have you gone?

Looks a pleasant spot.

[Sitec]

Where have you gone?.

Hi Mick. Its down below Meninge, 15kms down from Salt Creek is the sign for 42 Mile Crossing. We dropped in there, paid our park fees, then headed north 4.7 kms up the beach. :)

[stuee]

That engine sounds awesome!

[Sitec]

Goes well too. Chased a Range Rover Classic up a decent long climb today. He was empty, we were loaded.. Must have wondered what the hell was goin on! 35 deg and boot hard into it and all was still good at the top! :D

[Sitec]

Poor quality, but here's a snip it of Cummins sound for ya all!! :D

[cooee]

Hi Simon
Love the sound of your cummins going along sand hills great photos hope you all had great trip ,cheers cooee

[Sitec]

So, 'Mick' has been sat for a few months now.. as a works vehicle has arrived.... but with Melrose looming, and the lack of brakes still an issue, something has to be done. Another study of the 101 being rebuilt in town, and also listening to Gav's exploites has rousted me into action, so here's the progress... A Disco 1 Servo/Booster has been purchased..

[stuee]

Watching with interest!

[Sitec]

The pedal box and old servo has been removed.. the servo being consigned to the 'never be fitted again' shelf, and the pedal box re drilled to accept the Disco unit. Now, before anyone says anything about bolts pulling out etc... It won't happen!! Material thickness is the same as it was on the Disco bulkhead and the bolts r next to a fold and not out on the end of a flexible tab like they were.. which incidentally were bent about 10mm out of place!! (Must have stood on the brakes once or twice!!)

[Sitec]

Here's a pic of the servo input rod, modified to suit the 101 pedal. The hole is an M10, but had to be approx 10mm further out. Pressure is inwards so the new plate is pushing into the original jaw.

[Sitec]

Here's the newly modified servo mounted on the pedal box. It all dropped in nicely.

[Sitec]

Before I could do any more, it was time to rebuild the Master Cylinder.. So here it is in bits, being cleaned/honed and inspected. Thanks to AJ in MLB, a new seal kit arrived a few weeks ago, along with a phone call with advise on the delicate bits etc, so this morning was spent stripping, cleaning and laying all the parts out as they came apart so I could compare them to the bits in the kit. A little pressed steel washer confused me for a while... but I located where it had to go and spent about 10 min cursing it when fitting it (the tiny spring valve to the left of the pic).. Anyway, with the aid of some very hot soapy water, the seals were all fitted unscathed and the cylinder re assembled. (This was after a few 'technical' mods with the grinder)!

[Sitec]

This avo will be spent refitting the pedal box properly. Had a trial fit this morn to make sure it actually fits.. It does! More to follow later! :)

[stuee]

I'm keen to see the master cylinder mods to make it fit the booster.

Some of the conversions to type 50 servo's I've seen on the UK forum cut the lugs off the end of the pedal so that the new booster can hook straight up. The pedal sits in a slightly different position as a result, I cant recall if its further in or out for the type 50 booster.

I'm also interested to see when you fit it back up under the dash. The booster looks huge in comparison to the standard one.

[Homestar]

Despite the look of the D1 booster, it fits without too much drama. I'm still waiting on my mate to do the machining I wanted done, but of course paying jobs take priority, so nothing yet. I'll probably have to put the old one back in for now and do it after Melrose unfortunately.

The 'grinder' mod to the master cylinder is still one thing I'm not so keen on, without something supporting it. I'm probably being paranoid, but there isn't much meat left where it needs to mount on the new booster. This was the main part I was waiting on my mate to make - a brace that ensures more support further in towards the original mounting location.

[goingbush]

Have you guys thought of using a hydro boost setup rather than Vacuum booster, much more power and more compact. runs of power steering pump pressure. Hot rod guys use them when space is limited, as found on chev suburban F250 etc

[Homestar]

Sounds good, and would be great if we had power steering... :D

[Sitec]

Not heard of Hydro Boost, but Im going to look into air over hydraulic as I have continuous air on board. Well, the new booster is in, and the brakes are all bled, and I've been on a run. Maybe I'm too used to trucks that actually stop, but I think they're decidedly average. I'm wondering if my vacuum pump is not as good as it could be as I have a very firm pedal with minimal travel, but considerable effort is required to stop the vehicle from 100kmh. Will be doing some further investigation! Here is a Disco booster in a 101!

[Homestar]

Better or worse than with the standard booster? A hard pedal does suggest lack of vacuum though.

[Sitec]

Better or worse than with the standard booster?

Different... I've never thought the 101 to have good brakes.. But they were better as a V8 than they are as a diesel, which is who I am starting to question the vacuum pump. It stops going backwards now which it struggled to do before I changed the booster, but the pedal has a totally different feel now. Heavier! Will let u know once I work out how much vacuum there should be compared to what I have!

[Brute]

My mates F trucks have Hydraulic assist on the brakes, works off the power steering pump, only down side is they lose power steering while braking, seems an odd design:)

[goingbush]

My mates F trucks have Hydraulic assist on the brakes, works off the power steering pump, only down side is they lose power steering while braking, seems an odd design:)

they should not lose steering while braking, the hydro boost has a accumulator to prevent this, the ps pump should be plumbed into the booster then from the booster into the steering box.

If you think 101 brakes are bad you should test drive a 4x4 Daily , they are crap, which is why Im going for a hydro boost as soon as the kit is engineered. At least the Iveco PS pump is also designed as a hydraulic take off point

[67hardtop]

My mates F trucks have Hydraulic assist on the brakes, works off the power steering pump, only down side is they lose power steering while braking, seems an odd design:)


The old Chevy C20 trucks (350ci v8) had this system as well. If the engine stopped you had absolutely NO assistance at all :eek2:. Scary when you have 10,000 litres of petrol on the back in a portable delivery tank!!!!

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[67hardtop]

Different... I've never thought the 101 to have good brakes.. But they were better as a V8 than they are as a diesel, which is who I am starting to question the vacuum pump. It stops going backwards now which it struggled to do before I changed the booster, but the pedal has a totally different feel now. Heavier! Will let u know once I work out how much vacuum there should be compared to what I have!


Maybe you will have to fit a vacuum reservoir tank for the brakes.






Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[buffaroo]

Sitec , cant say i noticed a change in my brakes from the V8 to tdi change over, in the 5 days between driving from one engine to the other.

[Sitec]

So, I get home tonight, and a mate is here, so we start the diagnosis.. We compare vacuum pump suction on various vehicles around the yard.. and the 101's seems passable, but we strip and clean the Pierberg pump anyhow. We re assemble it and go for a run with the vacuum hose shorter running straight to the booster. Brakes no better at this point.. I then have a 'Doh' moment and realise that I've found the problem!! The vacuum pump is pumping air out of its exhaust.... Which means there has to be a servo leak! Its at this point I realise where the leak is!! The 101 master cylinder is not a factory fit against the Disco Booster.. I'd bolted it on with no form of seal!!!!! The thought of removing it to fit an o ring or gasket and then bleeding everything again was straight out of the window!! I removed the fixing bolts, moved it back 10mm and have put some gasket sealer between the two!! Its now bolted tight and I've walked away for tonight!! Resisting temptation to test it while the goo is still wet, so Gav.... Remember to mfr and fit a rubber gasket between your master cylinder and booster!!!! ;)

[Homestar]

Jeez I would never have thought of that... Thanks heaps. Hope it's all sorted. :)

[Sitec]

It is!!!!! Couldn't wait.. Sealer had hardened so off we went! Before Id even moved I knew it was fixed. The pedal is light and responsive!! Out onto the bitumen and did my usual stand on the pedal!! That was a big mistake!! All four wheels locked and we screeched to a stop very quickly!! Massive improvement!! Forget disks, etc etc, just recon your master cylinder and double the size of the servo! :D

[Homestar]

Awesome! Just the result I was hoping for. Now all I need to do is get it sorted before Melrose. :)

[stuee]

Any pics on what you had to do to the MC to make it fit? I see you've got some straps that tie the MC mounting points to the front frame.

[Sitec]

It's actually a really quick job... Just re drill the pedal box, adapt the booster input shaft (have hose on standby to cool weld instantly so as not to damage booster rubber cover), and notch the tabs out on the master cylinder. With thick washers there's plenty of purchase. If at all worried make a couple of clamp brackets out of 3mm angle that clamp on the cylinder to spread the load. Re extending the internal plunger, I just cut the guts out of the disco master cylinder and used the piece that sat over the booster shaft. With a bit of welding ingenuity and some fuel hose to make it fit onto the shaft tightly the jobs done! :)

[Sitec]

Any pics on what you had to do to the MC to make it fit? I see you've got some straps that tie the MC mounting points to the front frame.

Basically, I used a thin disk and notched the edges of the mounting holes out so it fitted straight over the studs. Instead of using washers, I used 3mm x 20mm flat and made two stays to support it onto two M6 bolts that hold the column in place. These two stays act like thick washers, clamping the modified master cylinder in place. Jus done another 20kms... at good speed too. So different to use. Touch the pedal and the nose dives!

[Homestar]

Might have to give it a go myself. I'll die of old age waiting for my mate to help me...

[Sitec]

Might have to give it a go myself. I'll die of old age waiting for my mate to help me...

Yeah, you'll b fine! Give me a buzz if ya need any help!

[Homestar]

Well, I did buzz Simon, and after a 6 minute consult got stuck in. The parts have been sitting at my Mates workshop for nearly 6 weeks and I picked them up tonight so I could have a go. The only parts I was worried about was the booster shaft extension and the bracing for the master cylinder mounts. Simon gave me the low down on how he did his - and after a couple of hours tonight after work, it's 90% complete including those bits. Just have to do the bit where the brake pedal pivot pin goes - yes, it was 10mm too short...:D, then button everything up.

Thanks heaps mate! :)

[nrs91]

Si loving the mod!
Will have to do it to my 101 when I get the scrap disco in at the weekend!
Hopefully it will sell better if its got awesome brakes lol

[Sitec]

Si loving the mod!
Will have to do it to my 101 when I get the scrap disco in at the weekend!
Hopefully it will sell better if its got awesome brakes lol

Went for another run tonight, to see a mate, first thing I did was stand on the brakes! We stopped with a screech! Working well. Takes a lot of getting used to... A 101 with brakes! :D

[Sitec]

Today was a productive day on the 101. I had a list that was at least 20 jobs to do on 'Mick' pre 'Melrose and beyond'. Today I've managed to change axle, swivel, and transfer case oils. Replace the leaking rear transfer output seal, blow out the air cleaner, and the rest of the vehicle, steam clean the underside, grease/check props, remove and swap the wheels around. New spares now on front, fronts on rear and rears as spares.. There's a slave cylinder kit on order from Di at Truckfix Clutches in the UK (useful contact for those on BookFace!), and the engine oil, filter and fuel filter will be changed tomorrow eve! Still debating if I need to tow the trailer up to Melrose.. If we were not going on from there, I would! :)

[JayBoRover]

No-one is going to buy your 101 at this rate Sitec! ... at least not until you jump on here on a Monday and announce that you did absolutely nothing on "Mick" over the weekend because you couldn't think of anything that needed doing. Then you'll get swamped with offers:D.

With more forethought (and money to spare) I could have got you to sort a trailer for me and brought it to Melrose and I could've tried to get someone from here to bring it back. (I think BMKal is heading to Melrose from these parts). I guess it makes it an incentive for me to head across next year:angel:. Actually, the CSR trip isn't too far away so a whole fleet of 101's coming this way:p.

[Sitec]

No-one is going to buy your 101 at this rate Sitec! ... at least not until you jump on here on a Monday and announce that you did absolutely nothing on "Mick" over the weekend because you couldn't think of anything that needed doing. Then you'll get swamped with offers:D.

Ah, but they're all little jobs that need doing.. Service etc.. Shows Im looking after it! :)... Now if one of those jobs was 'refit engine after it fell out', or 'fit second radiator to stop overheating problem', then yes.. That'd put people off!! With big power, I like to change all the oils often. :)

[goingbush]

Sitec, , does this tickle your fancy. You could put a decent camper on it. I always liked the lines of the 1418. If not perhaps the front axle and transfer case your looking for , and then make this into a 2WD & flog it off ??

1979 Mercedes-Benz LA911B Trucks in New South Wales - constructionsales.com.au (http://www.constructionsales.com.au/buy/used/AG-AD-473072/1979-Mercedes-Benz-LA911B?)

[Sitec]

The 'Bull Nose' Mercs have always appealed, and SWMBO loves them.. These or the older bull nose MAN's. For what I want to do tho, it has to be the later cab and bigger axles. Sadly the one truck I was hoping for sold yesterday. Have to sell the 101 b4 I can do anything.

[nrs91]

I still think the trucks in S.A were the way forward, tidy and low milage!

[Sitec]

I still think the trucks in S.A were the way forward, tidy and low milage!

They are, but there's lots of cost and hurdles to jump over to get an imported truck in from Europe or South Africa. I've fou d an axle and transfer case, and several suitable chassis cabs here.

[nrs91]

DIY sounds much more your thing anyway mate ;)

[Sitec]

With Melrose and the trip to whoop whoop afterwards, I thought I'd do something to combat the dust in the rear load area issue when traveling on dirt roads. The idea was to supply the cab with a guts full of air in the hopes to pressurise the whole cab. Here's a pic of what I thought would work. Two roof flaps for floats purchased and fitted to the outside if the vehicle. Fantastic idea I hear some of you say.. Well, its not! Due to the brick like front end on all 101's, when traveling in a forward direction, the air hits the flat face and does a 90deg turn and flow a straight around the side, missing these flaps all together!! Just contemplating my next move. I originally planned to fit them in the engine cooling tunnel, but didn't want to steal precious air from the rad and intercooler.

[Homestar]

Close but no cigar. They need to go in the front. 101Ron has done this and they work really well. It's on my to do list, but haven't got around to it. There are pics of Ron's somewhere here, I'll see if I can dredge them up.

Edit - here's the post he did on it - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/938152-post1.html

There is a note there from Ron about someone else trying the side vents, and failing. Any chance you can relocate them without leaving too many scars?

[slug_burner]

With Melrose and the trip to whoop whoop afterwards, I thought I'd do something to combat the dust in the rear load area issue when traveling on dirt roads. The idea was to supply the cab with a guts full of air in the hopes to pressurise the whole cab. Here's a pic of what I thought would work. Two roof flaps for floats purchased and fitted to the outside if the vehicle. Fantastic idea I hear some of you say.. Well, its not! Due to the brick like front end on all 101's, when traveling in a forward direction, the air hits the flat face and does a 90deg turn and flow a straight around the side, missing these flaps all together!! Just contemplating my next move. I originally planned to fit them in the engine cooling tunnel, but didn't want to steal precious air from the rad and intercooler.

You need to relocate the vents or to place a deflector to catch some of that air flowing at 90 degrees at the front corner. Some station wagons used to have such a deflector to force air going along the roof to deflect down and keep dust and water off the back window.

[puma130tc]

I've ridden in one with similar vents on the inside of the tunnel, worked really well.
I hear you, regarding radiator air flow though, I've envisaged a scoop, full height of the rad opening each side but only 20mm wide, with some sort of filter on the inside. A similar plan for heater/air con fresh air intake....
All a long way off though, will probably change my plans by the time I get to it.

[Sitec]

You need to relocate the vents or to place a deflector to catch some of that air flowing at 90 degrees at the front corner. Some station wagons used to have such a deflector to force air going along the roof to deflect down and keep dust and water off the back window.

Looking at that now. Over skinning the vent with two pieces of alli sheet that follow around the corner... A bit like some trucks.

[101 Ron]

The site called roverworx is no longer on the internet.
A fellow in the USA tried large two way air scoops on the side of the front body and on the top of a metal cabin.
His side scoops were in the same spot as the ones as Sitecs and they didn't work.
He later tried to make good the side scoops by adding a alloy plate over the top of the scoops he fitted so they reached out further.......only small improvement.
To solve the problem he ended up running a duct to the front edge of the cabin body along the sides......it worked but was very large and ugly.
In a nut shell the flat front of a 101 causes a bow wave which uses much fuel above 80 kph and pushes the air flow well away from the sides and top of the cabin.
The fellow in the USA did alot of work with tuffs of string ect to study the flow of air around the cabin of a 101 after he cut the metal for the side vents and found they didn't work.
Air vents in the fan tunnel will not work as well as one ones on the front face of the cabin.
The front face of the cabin is max air pressure when driving.......the fan tunnel loses air pressure though the engine bay when driving.
In a soft top air pressure inside the cabin drops with speed especially if the drivers and passengers door windows are slid open and the reason why you need a flume curtain fitted to a soft top to stop the exhaust killing you.
Maximum pressure difference of all these effects is the front cabin panel centring near the lower dash panel.
My vents are not very big at all and are very,very effective at high and low speeds.
They are kicked open and closed by your feet.
They look factory.
The other good part about the location is the way the air gets to the driver and passenger.
The air flow follows the floor and seat etc up to your face ect.
The private parts get cooled first and then the rest of you.
On a really hot days the 101 is not much fun to drive.....but if moving along at 40 kph or more I would rather drive the 101 than stand beside it stationary with my vents.
Of all the mods you can do to a 101 my vent mods is cheap and simple and works better than expected.
The thing is being trying to tell my fellow 101ers the benefits.
Only Bacicat and Garrycol have driven my 101 with the vents in operation and taken interest....both were impressed.
Only heavy rain seems to come in the vents and yes dust will too.............if it is a problem, I just close them or lead the front of the pack.
Ron

[nrs91]

Not an issue we have over here... were normally trying to fix the drafts...
but those front vents could be mounted on their side infront of the rad and when open they would scoop the air into the cab then and invisible from the outside

[Sitec]

Not an issue we have over here... were normally trying to fix the drafts...
but those front vents could be mounted on their side infront of the rad and when open they would scoop the air into the cab then and invisible from the outside

That was my original plan, but I was worried about taking too much air from in front of the rad.. especially on a 40 deg day.
They have however been modified.. And they do now work.... Picture to flow this eve! :D

[Homestar]

I'll get to see them in person. :)

[67hardtop]

I think ur a bit horny today at melrose. I kept looking for the train...lol

Sent from my GT-P5110 using AULRO mobile app

[JayBoRover]

Picture to flow this eve! :D
How long after "this eve"? :p

[Sitec]

Its a very wet morning here at Melrose, and its also the first time I've been able to access Internet.. Telstra are that useless up here!! When the rain stops and we r out, I'll take a pic. Clean forgot!! As for the horns.. I think Ian Turner really likes them!!! ;)

[mark_coffey]

Its a very wet morning here at Melrose, and its also the first time I've been able to access Internet.. Telstra are that useless up here!! When the rain stops and we r out, I'll take a pic. Clean forgot!! As for the horns.. I think Ian Turner really likes them!!! ;)
Has he met his match then???:D

[67hardtop]

As for the horns.. I think Ian Turner really likes them!!! ;)

I think he jumped about 6 feet high when he first heard them...hahahahaaha

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[Homestar]

I think he jumped about 6 feet high when he first heard them...hahahahaaha

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

Followed by the comment 'gosh Simon, do you mind awefully if you turn those gosh darn horns down a bit please?' or something similar anyway - I forget... :D

[Sitec]

Well, today has been one of mixed emotions. The 101 is on route to QLD with its new owner as we speak. It was hard to see it go, but kinda good in the knowing its going to a home who will appreciate it. His first issue was the clutch running out of fluid.. Bit of a worry as he'd only got as far as Truro! Topped up and Christian was on his way again. Just hope he has a good run. We did over 100kms today.. Barossa to the airport and back.. Will miss Mick for sure!!!

So, this is 'Sitec's 101' thread signing out... :(

[Mick_Marsh]

:(.

What are you doing with the trailer?

[The ho har's]

It's ours Mick :p

Woo hoo another for QLD :D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Lionelgee]

It's ours Mick :p

Woo hoo another for QLD :D

Mrs hh:angel:

Hello Mrs HH,

Have you checked your PMs of late - sorry Sitec for the thread hijack!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[loanrangie]

Interesting to see how it goes with qld rego dept.


Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[rangieman]

Interesting to see how it goes with qld rego dept.


Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

x2;)

[JayBoRover]

:(.

What are you doing with the trailer?
x2. As you know, I've been hunting a trailer for a while. ;)

[Mick_Marsh]

x2. As you know, I've been hunting a trailer for a while. ;)
That is why I asked. Collect it on your way home.

[Crisco]

Hi all, long time reader first time poster.
I'm the new owner of Mick (aka - the flying brick). We had a little 'getting to know you' drive of 2,100kms, left Simon on Friday afternoon and got back to sunny Qld Sunday afternoon. This is a great truck!
Sat on 90-105 the whole way and I worked it out -12.5L/100, not bad for 5.9L and the aerodynamics of a house brick. I was hoping for 15 so am really happy as I want to do some touring.
I was wanting something with a Cummins 12V and came across Mick by accident - I'd never seen a 101 in the metal until Friday. The Cummins doesn't slow down for anything and I reckon even fully loaded with a trailer it'd sit on 100 up any hill you point it at.
Couple of minor things like the clutch (as Simon says, just needed a top up to get it going again) and the drivers window hit me in the head about half a day into it (shook loose). I drove with the window out until day 2 lunch when I bought a screw driver, double sided tape and some new screws and put it back together. It's a Land Rover!
With the front vents open I found it was better with the windows closed - they are in a low pressure area and suck heaps of air out of the cab which draws in the hot air from the engine bay. With them closed you get cool air from the vents Simon put in.
The feeling in my legs is now returning and apparently my hearing will too :p

I have some experience with Qld Transport (I've done a couple of individually constructed vehicles), once I have the few oil leaks fixed (the nose of the rear diff has sprung a leak too) I will get a roadworthy and some Qld plates. I know an engineer too if that's needed, can't see too many issues. It's much easier with a 1976 vehicle that's already been registered. An ICV is considered a new car and has to comply with emissions laws as well as everything else.

I have lots of plans and will post separately. Mick Part II

[AndyG]

Well done, look forward to meeting up.
Very jealous

[nrs91]

congrats on your new purchase, im very jealous!

Join us over at www.facebook.com/groups/cumminslandrovergroup for like minded nutters

[Homestar]

Congratulations. With that engine in it, nothing you can put in it, or behind it will slow it down. :)

Keep us up to date. :)

[Sitec]

Sounds like a good run! Also great to hear about the fuel economy. I'd said on here that it was doing 12-14 LT per 100, and its good to hear that someone else has actually seen it. It was always surprisingly good on fuel, which is why we did quite a few kms in it. Glad you are pleased, and I'll dig out the slave cyl kit I have for it and get it in the post over the next few days.
That door glass did that to me, and once to the wife! She was not amused. Thinkin about it, I guess I'd got into the habit of opening the window, and slamming the door holding both pieces of glass!!
Hope all goes well re the Transport mob. Talk soon!



Re the trailer, that was sold early on as it was too good to modify for what I wanted. It is still in the yard, but has gone to a 4bdt powered, disk braked 101 owner in Adelaide. ;)

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

Is this the 12V Cummins motor? Accessed 20th October 2015 from, 5.9L Cummins 12v Specs (6BT) (http://www.cumminshub.com/12v.html)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[cuppabillytea]

Well done Crisco. I'm jealous too. Oh well, one day. :mrgreen:

[Sitec]

Hello All,

Is this the 12V Cummins motor? Accessed 20th October 2015 from, 5.9L Cummins 12v Specs (6BT) (http://www.cumminshub.com/12v.html)

Kind Regards
Lionel

Yup, that's it. Slightly different spec. The engine in the 101 has a Bosch VE rotary pump, not the huge in line 'P' pump in the pic. The unit in the 101 originally was a 130hp unit, which revs to approx 3000rpm, it has a Holset HX35 non wastegated turbo. I fitted an intercooler and adjusted the pump to suit, and prob added 40 hp to it. It certainly goes well!! In theory, fitment of a HX35W turbo, +40 injectors and a pin mod to the pump and you'd add 100hp+ to it.. ;)

[spudboy]

So - let's hear about the replacement vehicle then :p

[Sitec]

So - let's hear about the replacement vehicle then :p

It's on its way.. Trying to pin down the guy who's getting it sorted for the drive is like tryin to keep a block of ice cool in hot water!! There will b an update in the other larger vehicle section soon! ;)

[strangy]

So - let's hear about the replacement vehicle then :p

what he said😀

[AndyG]

Hi all, long time reader first time poster.
I'm the new owner of Mick (aka - the flying brick). We had a little 'getting to know you' drive of 2,100kms, left Simon on Friday afternoon and got back to sunny Qld Sunday afternoon. This is a great truck!
Sat on 90-105 the whole way and I worked it out -12.5L/100, not bad for 5.9L and the aerodynamics of a house brick. I was hoping for 15 so am really happy as I want to do some touring.
I was wanting something with a Cummins 12V and came across Mick by accident - I'd never seen a 101 in the metal until Friday. The Cummins doesn't slow down for anything and I reckon even fully loaded with a trailer it'd sit on 100 up any hill you point it at.
Couple of minor things like the clutch (as Simon says, just needed a top up to get it going again) and the drivers window hit me in the head about half a day into it (shook loose). I drove with the window out until day 2 lunch when I bought a screw driver, double sided tape and some new screws and put it back together. It's a Land Rover!
With the front vents open I found it was better with the windows closed - they are in a low pressure area and suck heaps of air out of the cab which draws in the hot air from the engine bay. With them closed you get cool air from the vents Simon put in.
The feeling in my legs is now returning and apparently my hearing will too :p

I have some experience with Qld Transport (I've done a couple of individually constructed vehicles), once I have the few oil leaks fixed (the nose of the rear diff has sprung a leak too) I will get a roadworthy and some Qld plates. I know an engineer too if that's needed, can't see too many issues. It's much easier with a 1976 vehicle that's already been registered. An ICV is considered a new car and has to comply with emissions laws as well as everything else.

I have lots of plans and will post separately. Mick Part II

It's a small world, today did a 4wd course, and the land owner who appears to be a potential LR tragic was raving about his neighbour who just drove a 101 back from Adelaide brand new. :D

p.s the mighty Defender held its own on the course, even waved a finger, er wheel at everyone else, oops.

[Dervish]

I've always wanted to see this vehicle in the flesh - now it looks like I might get a chance!

[Sitec]

I've always wanted to see this vehicle in the flesh - now it looks like I might get a chance!

See if you can get a run out in it when you do catch up!! ;)

[The ho har's]

Me thinks we will have a 101 day as there is enough of us up here

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Yeah, it's bloody quick - Simon will attest to the time he scared the living **** out of me in it...! :D

[Sitec]

Yeah, it's bloody quick - Simon will attest to the time he scared the living **** out of me in it...! :D

Yeah, about that! Sorry again.. Its even worse now half a tonne of camping gear is out of it! The new toy won't be as fast...

[Homestar]

All good. The reality is that I was insanely jealous about the power it had once I left your place in mine towing the van at 80 all the way up to Melrose. :D

[nrs91]

told ya cummins was quick and economical ;)

[AndyG]

If it's not a Cat its a Dog :D :wasntme:

[Homestar]

You know what CAT stands for right???

Cummins After This! :D

[Crisco]

Still waiting for my mechanic mate to drop by for the road worthy. Have had a good look over it and making more plans....
Have put in the request for the facebook group.
Happy to show Mick to anyone who want to see - I'm at Peachester.
Cheers

[nrs91]

Ive probably accepted you to the group on FB, don't be shy and post with pride, Mick is a beauty and you had a good buy!

[Sitec]

I saw a post had been made last night. The CLRG is a fantastic resource for all things 6BT, and ISB. Prob a good job I no longer live over there or I'd have been sucked into it in a huge way!!! Everything would have a Cummins in it!! ;)

[nrs91]

I saw a post had been made last night. The CLRG is a fantastic resource for all things 6BT, and ISB. Prob a good job I no longer live over there or I'd have been sucked into it in a huge way!!! Everything would have a Cummins in it!! ;)

Im working on it...