S1 drive hub lubrication?

[Brad110]

What are you using?

Recommend.

[Defender Mike]

Castrol 80> 90 axel or transmission same stuff different label and the axel is cheaper usually. I use a little pump I bought in Gympie same as what Keith showed me. Mine doesn't leak much a pump or 2 once a fortnight top her up each side.
Mike:)

[101RRS]

In all my old landies I have used a 50/50 mix of wheel bearing grease and gear oil. I owned my first series 1 for 8 years and was covering 800km a week and had no issues - my later series 3 was the same - daily drivers.

My D1s and 101 with CVs I used 50/50 CV grease and gear oil - again no issues.

Garry

[gromit]

EP75W90 GL4, whatever brand I'm using in the diffs/Gearbox/transfer box. At the moment it's from an independant blender in Bayswater.
Seals replaced 3/4 years ago, doesn't lose much, if any, between checkups.
I use a trigger oil can to top up, easy to dispense and also handy when rebuilding gearboxes, diffs etc.


Colin

[Drew Parker]

In all my old landies I have used a 50/50 mix of wheel bearing grease and gear oil. I owned my first series 1 for 8 years and was covering 800km a week and had no issues - my later series 3 was the same - daily drivers.

My D1s and 101 with CVs I used 50/50 CV grease and gear oil - again no issues.

Garry
Hi Garry - have you found that 50/50 mix tends to separate out over time? I tried it a few years back and after 6 months wondered what had gone wrong. Thks for your thoughts.
Cheers
Drew

[101RRS]

Hi Garry - have you found that 50/50 mix tends to separate out over time?

Not if the vehicle is used.

[Brad110]

Is this for tracta joints or uni?

Worst case it can slow the seal leaks.:D

[gromit]

Is this for tracta joints or uni?

Worst case it can slow the seal leaks.:D

No, worst case is it is too thick and doesn't get thrown around to lubricate the cone bearing/Railco bush !


Colin

[Brad110]

I am not keen to use grease as it is difficult to drain/flush after water ingress.

I will just add some 140.

By the way Colin I remember reading for trans/ gearbox use GL4 oil but had trouble finding some. If I was correct in my understanding Gl5and 6 have additives that attack brass/ bronze components.

Is the GL a rating or an indication of these additives?

[gromit]

I am not keen to use grease as it is difficult to drain/flush after water ingress.

I will just add some 140.

By the way Colin I remember reading for trans/ gearbox use GL4 oil but had trouble finding some. If I was correct in my understanding Gl5and 6 have additives that attack brass/ bronze components.

Is the GL a rating or an indication of these additives?

Brad,

Yes, GL5 'might be OK' but GL4 is definitely OK with brass & bronze (something to do with the EP additive changing).
The blender I use in Bayswater mixes it on demand you just have to order in advance. They claim their GL5 would be OK but..... still recommend the GL4 for older gearboxes.


Colin

[mfc]

I'm using a 9o weight Penrith clasis with a small amount of semi fluid grease.... The grease was to stop a few seeps for roadworthy ... Ill fix them soon I promise lol
Cheers mark

[Brad110]

That reminds me

Purchased oils at Repco and Penrite diff/ trans was cheaper than all others including home brand and then 20% RAC Discount.

[Cliffy]

No one using Moreys / Lucas 50/50 with 90 diff oil?

[gromit]

Do you mean their Oil Stabiliser ?

I have some from the company that, allegedly, originally made it for Morey's.
From the details on the label if added to your engine oil it :-
Stops smoke
Reduces or eliminates oil leaks
Improves engine power
Quietens older noisy engines
Engines run cooler which improves fuel economy.

The stuff is like clear treacle, you need to add it to hot oil with the engine running so with a gearbox/diff you might need to heat & pre-mix before pouring it in.

An advantage in an infrequently used vehicle might be that "because of it's adhesive nature it doesn't run off moving parts after shutdown".

Personally I don't have any experience of it's use. My infrequently used S1 has standard 20W50 engine oil and 75W90 EP oil in diffs, gearbox, t.fer box & hubs.


Colin

[ian4002000]

I am going to put Moreys and gear oil in my diffs and gearbox etc. I used Moreys a long time ago and it is great especially for heat reduction !What ever it is made of seems to mix well with everything and it does work.

[Cliffy]

I use it in all my Landies.
I know that some would poo-poo additives and say "if it were that good the oil companies would put mix it in their oils".
I think it works wonders for quieting Landy transfer cases and gear boxes.
I have been trailing it in my 130 s/hubs mixed with the one shot grease.
So far so good. My theory is it should mix with the grease and stop it drying out.
I will be rebuilding the front end before Xmas so I'll know if it worked.

[back_in]

Hi
word from the wise old one siting in a cave on the hill
add Nulon 70 ( spelling may be wrong) and Penrite 80/90 gear oil
white stuff in a white tube about $30 for 250mm
use in gear boxes, trans cases, diff's, overdrives etc
cuts down gear noise, heat and wear
another old trick that works very well powered graphite in gear boxes etc
the best in swivel boxes is Land Rover (Britpart etc) one shot in a plastic tube
has oil and grease that will not separate
remember if the oil stops dripping out put some more in, it is the cheapest maintenance you have
cheers
Ian

[Brad110]

I put 1/2 l of 140 in the transfer and gearbox and diffs. Runs quiet er now. I would even consider a radio.

Put a bit in hubs as well.

Next time I will use some oneshot as a trial.

Now that mechanicals are quieter, it has made the prop shaft splines noisy....next job.

I have used Moreys years ago and didn't know they still made it.

The claims on the bottle sound grand.

I guess it's what gets you home to a certain extent.

Regards.

[101RRS]

Next time I will use some oneshot as a trial.



I am not sure I would be using one shot in a series 1 - one shot is for CV joints where you have UJs or Tracta joints that need some oil to get into all the tight spots. However one shot mixed with oil would probably be OK as the oil will take the grease with it into the tight spots where it will cling to parts.

Garry

[Brad110]

I have a "55 with UJ and will use the grease to supplement the oil.

[gromit]

I have a "55 with UJ and will use the grease to supplement the oil.

Several discussions on AULRO regarding semi-fluid grease vs. oil.
The general feeling is that the semi-fluid grease may not get thrown up to lubricate the top swivel bearing (Railco or cone bearing depending on age). OK after Series III where the top bearing is a taper roller.
The needle rollers in a UJ can survive with minimal lubrication.

The semi-fluid grease is usually installed because it's easier than fixing the leak. Replace the seal and as long as your balls are smooth rather than pitted you shouldn't have a problem using the correct oil.
The semi-fluid grease was often installed by LR Dealers but probably Defender onwards (mine has LR stickers informing that semi-fluid grease has been installed).

Regarding PTFE additives (Nulon G70 etc.). I've never tried this, early on there were lots of issues, from memory the PTFE clumped together and stayed in the filter (when used in an engine). I believe the latest versions have much smaller PTFE particles and the problem has been solved.
For infrequent use vehicles something that sticks and 'bonds' to the surface seems like a good idea.
Years ago I got a Triumph 350 motorbike, drove it home and at the weekend changed all the oils. All I drained from the gearbox was about a pint of water !! Pulled the cover and everything was rust free because someone had used MolySlip in the past and every gear etc. was coated.
Kept it for years and never had any gearbox problems.

Adding EP140 ? It would probably quieten things down but there must be a slight power loss because the 140 would be harder to displace.


Each to their own.


Colin

[dreamin']

On the recommendation of a seasoned land rover man, I bought a 5l bucket of EP00 grease for swivel housings. I understand this is equivalent to the one-shot grease, but far cheaper way to buy in volume.

It's weird stuff. Warmed up a bit it pours like liquid. When cool it gels like custard. But it also 'creeps' and coats surfaces it contacts.

On this basis, I think it would 'splash' around in the housing when it gets warm driving, coating moving parts with lubricant, but less likely to leak out when cooled than oil.

The only thing I question is how well it 'washes' grit and particles from wearing parts, which a lower viscosity oil might do better.

Roger

[JDNSW]

.... OK after Series III where the top bearing is a taper roller.
....


Colin

Just a correction - railko bushes continued to be used at least into the late 90s on Defender, and i suspect on D1 without ABS.

John

[gromit]

On the recommendation of a seasoned land rover man, I bought a 5l bucket of EP00 grease for swivel housings. I understand this is equivalent to the one-shot grease, but far cheaper way to buy in volume.

It's weird stuff. Warmed up a bit it pours like liquid. When cool it gels like custard. But it also 'creeps' and coats surfaces it contacts.

On this basis, I think it would 'splash' around in the housing when it gets warm driving, coating moving parts with lubricant, but less likely to leak out when cooled than oil.

The only thing I question is how well it 'washes' grit and particles from wearing parts, which a lower viscosity oil might do better.

Roger


I think it would take quite a few Km's to get warm enough in the swivel hubs to turn it back into a liquid that can be thrown around. OK for a well used Land Rover but not if you're only traveling short distances.

I still think it's best to just replace the swivel seal & use the correct oil.


Colin

[gromit]

Found this interesting comment in the link below.

"The completion of the job has allowed me to return to EP 90 in the swivels, as opposed to the One-shot I had been using for some time. The One-shot does a good job, but has one flaw in that it doesn’t drain out from the swivel drain plugs, so can’t be removed if contaminated with water. The irony is that people generally only use One-shot if their swivel seals are leaking, and that means that water ingress is more likely."

http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/front-swivel-replacement/


Colin