RODS RODS RODS

[herrBlick]

ok I have ordered GOE rods ...pretty excited
can you please post photos of you Discos and RRS with rods
I am curious ....Im i right in thinking that if i want to get to normal hight I should stick it in access mode?
and off road will be super extend mode ?
so what doe the triple rod do?
I am sure its on this site somewhere ...
please direct me to a link even:)

[WhiteD3]

The rods (using the off road hole) just push all the height selection up one. Normal is off road, off road is extended, etc.

I've never driven the car for any distance at normal height (access mode selected) as I leave the rods set (say at Fraser Is) for the week then once off the ferry, select the normal mode hole which takes maybe 60 seconds to do all 4 wheels.

[SBD4]

Here's the link:

Green Oval Experience Land Rover 4WD, Range Rover off-road Australia (http://www.greenovalexperience.com/products.html#!eas/cl9p)

[herrBlick]

All good I now understand that the 3rd setting is for emergencies only.....great

[VK3GJM]

Just fitted Gordon's rods this past weekend. The last task before heading off to Cape York for 6 weeks. They are so easy to adjust once you get the originals off.

I am looking forward to that extra 50mm ride height once away from the black top.

I fitted the Mitch hitch, with the rods in extended mode(shorter) the base of the Mitch hitch sits 600mm above ground level, this will put the TVAN rear down about 100mm. Will post some picks once coupled and ready to go.

Regards

Gerald
VK3GJM

[herrBlick]

Greats stuff mate sounds like you are of on a great trip....jealous..looking forward to the pictures

[Convinceme]

Hey Gerlad

Which way are you headed to the Cape? I'll keep an eye out for you.

Leaving Wentworth probably Wed heading towards Menindee, Broken Hill, Tiboburra, Inaminka etc. Plan to head towardsThe coast from there.

Steve

D4 with a Tvan on the back also :D

QUOTE=VK3GJM;1976090]Just fitted Gordon's rods this past weekend. The last task before heading off to Cape York for 6 weeks. They are so easy to adjust once you get the originals off.

I am looking forward to that extra 50mm ride height once away from the black top.

I fitted the Mitch hitch, with the rods in extended mode(shorter) the base of the Mitch hitch sits 600mm above ground level, this will put the TVAN rear down about 100mm. Will post some picks once coupled and ready to go.

Regards

Gerald
VK3GJM[/QUOTE]

[VK3GJM]

Hi Steve & herrblick,

It's been 6 months in planning, looking forward to the drive, scenery and people.

Heading of Wednesday, Melbourne to Dubbo, St George, 3-4 nights in Carnarvan Gorge, then head to Undara, Cairns where we meet three other vehicles to head to the cape on the 9th via Daintree and lakefield old Laura.

Regards

Gerald

VK3GJM

[rb30gtr]

Only word of advice, plenty of silicon spray or even WD40 onto the originals before taking them off and when the GOE rods go on, get them nice and lubed for ease of changing. And simply enjoy!

[rocmic]

Gerald and Ben
I ordered some rods for the D3 last week. Hopeing they will get to me beofre the weekend so that I can install them and be ready for the D3/D4?RRS weekend.
Apart from liberal amount of silicon spray, any other tricks/pitfalls in getting the origianl ones off?
thanks
Mike

[4evershiva]

hey guys, can the GOE rods be DIY installed or do i have to take it to a mechanic...so how much will it cost to install it?? thinking of ording the GOE rods....should i go 2 way or 3 way rods? i got a 2009 disco 3

[rb30gtr]

hey guys, can the GOE rods be DIY installed or do i have to take it to a mechanic...so how much will it cost to install it?? thinking of ording the GOE rods....should i go 2 way or 3 way rods? i got a 2009 disco 3

If you have a spare 10 mins to fit and 5 more for the completion beer you should be sweet to install yourself.:twobeers:

I have the 2 way, do fine for what I need. I didn't even know Graeme was doing 3 way, Whats the 3rd setting for, oh actually Ill check his website.

[VK3GJM]

I found white lithium lubricating spray to be the best, IMHO.

Regards

Gerald

[rb30gtr]

Gerald and Ben
I ordered some rods for the D3 last week. Hopeing they will get to me beofre the weekend so that I can install them and be ready for the D3/D4?RRS weekend.
Apart from liberal amount of silicon spray, any other tricks/pitfalls in getting the origianl ones off?
thanks
Mike

Hi Mike,

The hardest bit is getting the originals off, if you lube them up and just gently lever them off or worst case some pliers, taking note not to flex the sensor arm too much, and you will be sweet. Easiest for the rears is to get the jack under the side and get the car nice and high so you have room to play.
For the fronts at off road height they are easily accessible.

I had a mate help, well sit and drink my beers, but he was there for 'moral' support and when working under a vehicle take all the common sense safety steps.

Oh and put them in the right way up, hahaha.

Cheers,
Ben

[rb30gtr]

I found white lithium lubricating spray to be the best, IMHO.

Regards

Gerald

Never tried it, but sounds good I will get some.

Cheers,
Ben

[rocmic]

Thanks Ben and Gerald
I already have the lithium spray and I plan to do it this weekend (assuming they get here and rotate my tyres at the same time. So looks like it should be relatively easy (apart form the tyre rotation which is just hard work).
Ben, looking forward to meeting you in a couple of weeks.
Cheers
Mike

[VK3GJM]

That's what friends are for! Yes the original robs are a bit of a bigger to get off. Lots of spray, massage it in and they slip off the knuckle much easier.

Once Gordon's rods are on, they can be changed very easily by feel, but you have to put the vehicle in the off-road height position for easy access.

One of the must have aftermarket accessories.

Regards

Gerald
VK3GJM

[amazing]

don't have myself but a golf divot tool has been suggested on other sites.

[rocmic]

don't have myself but a golf divot tool has been suggested on other sites.
I've got one of those lying around somewhere, I think I read about it on another site as well. If all else fails (or maybe even if not) I'll give it a try.
Cheers
Mike

[Graeme]

One of the must have aftermarket accessories....unless one has opted for the electronic version.

[phl]

don't have myself but a golf divot tool has been suggested on other sites.

Don't need it; wasn't easy, but not that hard either to get the originals off. I used some silicone grease, which I happen to have for my bicycle pedals, and they seem to attract less muck than normal grease.

[herrBlick]

This is what I'm talking about...... Good useful tips that make the process easier ...cheers lads !,,

[WhiteD3]

I used some silicone grease,

I keep a mini can of silicone spray in the car with the original rods in case I need to change them.

And if it hasn't been said before in this tread....safety first. Ignition off, driver's door open, fuses pulled...before putting your arms into the wheel hub.

[Graeme]

And if it hasn't been said before in this tread....safety first. Ignition off, driver's door open, fuses pulled...before putting your arms into the wheel hub.Removing the engine bay 20A suspension system fuse is the only action that prevents the suspension ecu from levelling - none of the others have any impact on preventing the suspension from lowering.

[herrBlick]

Can you post a picture where this fuse is?

[~Rich~]

Engine bay / passenger side.
Take off battery cover to reveal fuse block.
It's on the right side looking from the front, there is a legend under the cover as to what is what. By memory it's the forth fuse back from the front. Check using the legend.

[Graeme]

I thought it was in various positions depending on vehicle model but all my wiring diagrams for D3, RRS and D4 show it as engine bay fuse #26. In the RR Vogue its in the passenger compartment fuse box but I wont identify the number to avoid confusion here. On my D4 its the 3rd fuse from the front on the outside (I removed it today before changing wheels). The diagram on the inside of the cover shows a vehicle with its wheels in ruts.

Edit: There's a 5A suspension fuse in the same fuse box but removing that is not sufficient.

[ytt105]

If this fuse stops the car from lowering, couldn't it be wired through a switch and used to stop the car self lowering at 50kmh when in extended mode?

[Fred Nerk]

For the initial removal of the OEM rods and fitting of GOE rods it is much easier to use a chassis support stand to reduce the risk of the car lowering while reaching into the wheel arch. Avoids the need to play with electrics/fuses and is safer.

When changing position in the field, it is easier with the suspension raised and front wheels turned to one side lock. (It doesn't matter which). Takes a little practice to become familiar with the task. If you become aware of the suspension moving when changing the rods, move the sensor arm to point straight down and the movement stops. Causes a temporary "out of range" fault which resolves itself later.

[Graeme]

If this fuse stops the car from lowering, couldn't it be wired through a switch and used to stop the car self lowering at 50kmh when in extended mode?Having the fuse removed whilst moving causes an error message to be displayed and a waring beep about every 30 seconds unless the passenger compartment suspension system 5A fuse is also removed. With the suspension system inactive Terrain Response is also inactive so no e-diff either.

[ytt105]

So if we switch both fuses there wont be an error?

I have to tell you where I'm coming from. I don't (yet) own a disco, I've got a P38 so I'm really talking from a point of no experience,

but, with the P38 the only situation where I could perceive some problem with the auto lowering is when crossing a water course. So to counter this I wired a switch that could turn off the EAS completely.

This has worked for me very well for years, so when I buy a Disco I'd like to use something similar. I would think that the loss of Terrain Response would not be that much of an issue in these situations.

[101RRS]

but, with the P38 the only situation where I could perceive some problem with the auto lowering is when crossing a water course. So to counter this I wired a switch that could turn off the EAS completely.

The only time a D3 will auto lower is if you exceed 50kph if at offroad height or there are some suspension errors.

The issue when jacking is the vehicle trying to level itself - moves and could jam fingers in the wrong spot but does not lower.

If you loose TR you will may very well not have a cdl or even traction control - so is integral with offroad capability.

Garry

[rocmic]

Garry is right, I can't imagine hitting water that is of the depth where lowereing would cause a problem at greater tahn 50kph. I would think at that speed and depth, tehn auto lowering would be the least of your problems:p

[herrBlick]

God I'm frightened now .... I am a bloody hairdresser......I can't loose my hands,
Maybe a friendly Melbournian could come up to Northcote and assist

[SimmAus]

God I'm frightened now .... I am a bloody hairdresser......I can't loose my hands,
Maybe a friendly Melbournian could come up to Northcote and assist

I see you're planning to jump the border and attend the Lithgow trip.....I'm sure someone will lend a hand there.

[WhiteD3]

God I'm frightened now .... I am a bloody hairdresser......I can't loose my hands,
Maybe a friendly Melbournian could come up to Northcote and assist

The first time I fitted them I took the rear wheels off (one at a time) as these are the hardest to reach unseen. While its a laborious process, you don't have to worry about the car lowering. The front wheels are easy; just go to full lock and you can see what you are doing.

Once fitted, you leave them fitted. With a picture in your mind of the set up, it literally takes 20 seconds to do each wheel. I always give them a squirt of silicone spray before any trip. Makes it much easier to change from the upper to lower hole.

Fuses pulled, doors open, etc. If you're still stressed, put the jack in place for each wheel.

[herrBlick]

I see you're planning to jump the border and attend the Lithgow trip.....I'm sure someone will lend a hand there.

sad news not going now:(

[Dirty3]

God I'm frightened now .... I am a bloody hairdresser......I can't loose my hands,
Maybe a friendly Melbournian could come up to Northcote and assist

Can't have that happening now can we!!

First time around is a bit of a slow job especially the rear. You have to get under the car for best results. I never removed fuses etc, but in hind sight maybe a good idea. Front ones are a piece of cake, a walk in the park….blah, blah, blah.

Once on as other have mentioned its a 20 second job.

[Rohan]

God I'm frightened now .... I am a bloody hairdresser......I can't loose my hands,
Maybe a friendly Melbournian could come up to Northcote and assist

I removed my wheels, one at a time, and the fuses the first time. Didn't take long, maybe an hour all up, including a can at the end, and I'm useless when it comes to mechanical stuff!
Don't cut your hands off before Friday or SWMBO will be cranky! ( although I think she's booked with Jemma ) :)

[rb30gtr]

Easy quick and safe job, if you take the right steps,

I raised my D3 to offroad height, opened a door, threw a few old wheels under the chassis rails and simply changed the original sensor rods to the GOE Ones. 5 mins max each corner.

[Tombie]

So if we switch both fuses there wont be an error?

I have to tell you where I'm coming from. I don't (yet) own a disco, I've got a P38 so I'm really talking from a point of no experience,

but, with the P38 the only situation where I could perceive some problem with the auto lowering is when crossing a water course. So to counter this I wired a switch that could turn off the EAS completely.

This has worked for me very well for years, so when I buy a Disco I'd like to use something similar. I would think that the loss of Terrain Response would not be that much of an issue in these situations.

So to counter a problem which doesn't exist you added a complexity that may cause a problem?

Seems legit:cool:

[jammers]

So I finally got a set of two way rods delivered - but confused which way round they go, the pair of holes at the top or bottom?

[discotwinturbo]

So I finally got a set of two way rods delivered - but confused which way round they go, the pair of holes at the top or bottom?

Pair at the top....that's the way I had mine.

Gordon will confirm for sure.

From greenovalexperience.com

The GOE Height Sensor rods are a slight twist to c) above - a single rod that has both standard height and "+50mm" settings. You then just switch over the top connection to the chassis (once you are familiar with the components, it takes about 10s per wheel) prior to getting onto the rough stuff. You can do this whilst airing down, for instance. Another 10s per wheel when your finished and you're back to normal height again. They are also easily removable, and the standard rods can all be refitted in a matter of minutes to bring the vehicle back to factory spec.

Brett.

[gghaggis]

So I finally got a set of two way rods delivered - but confused which way round they go, the pair of holes at the top or bottom?

If you didn't get the instructions for the rods (?), email me and I'll send them on.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Boofla]

What the diff between 2 way and 3 way rods?

How much is postage to Sydney?

Cheers

[discotwinturbo]

What the diff between 2 way and 3 way rods?

How much is postage to Sydney?

Cheers

http://www.greenovalexperience.com/#!eas/cl9p

Half way down the page it will give you the answer for the 3 way rods.....just before the emergency inflation kits.

An extra height for a couple of dollars more.

Brett....