Ashcroft hd cvs & axles or Allisport intercooler?

[noogie]

Hi all

I've saved my pennies and I can buy either the Ashcroft hd cvs and axles or the Allisport intercooler.

Question?

I don't know which I should get first.
I'm edging towards the intercooler as it is beneficial for the engine.

Love to be able to get both but I would get shot.
What do you reckon?

I'm running 33s atm but do want to build the car up to run 35s.

Cheers
Mick

[redrovertdi]

I have the intercooler, if yours is a 200/300tdi you will also need to budget for the injection pump tune or there will be very little difference if any, how ever once tuned to suit it is well worth it

[noogie]

Mine is a td5 with remapped ecu.

[goingbush]

Mick,
for the type of 4wheeling you do. I'd go the axles and cv's

do you have an EGT, if you going over 700 too easily or doing a lot of highway towing then, yes the intercooler

[POD]

I've just put Ashcroft HD axles, CVs, flanges & diff through my 130 and have not even contemplated an intercooler so I guess that's pretty representative of my opinion. I often go out alone in demanding terrain and I don't like getting stranded.

[Stumpy1]

G'day Noogie,

I'm 100% with Going Bush and POD.

If your going 35s it's no use sitting in the bush for hours with a brand new intercooler waiting for a tow because your CV's are buggered.

Hope this helps, Good luck!

[noogie]

Mick,
for the type of 4wheeling you do. I'd go the axles and cv's

do you have an EGT, if you going over 700 too easily or doing a lot of highway towing then, yes the intercooler

Hi Don
I've gotta get an egt gauge.
I don't tow as much as I used to and only do the occasional long hwy trip. I'm not clocking up big ks these days either.

Gotta say that I do get little paranoid about breaking something with the front locker on.

Yeah the cvs/axles do make more sense.
I don't really need the extra performance just the cooller egts.

Cheers
Mick

[steveG]

Once you've got a gauge, EGT's are easily controlled with your right foot, and are never an issue offroad in my experience (except maybe in sand).

Go with the axles/CV's :)

Steve

[Drover]

Go the Ashcroft gear.

Had my CV's, drive flanges and half shafts in for 4 years. Never had a problem and they make you feel much more confident when off roading.

I put the Allisport inter cooler in after the drive line up grade.

Just put Ashcroft's new HDP38 air locker in :BigThumb:

[uninformed]

ashcroft definitely make the best cvs to date, but have you priced Hi-Tough Engineering for axles and drive flanges. They are on the Gold Coast and locally made.

[noogie]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can only use the Ashcroft half Shafts with the Ashcroft cvs.

I've got the hi tuff rear axles hooked up to s maxi drive rear locker and I agree that they are very good.

[uninformed]

I did not think that the case. If Ashcroft are making drop in replacement parts, the the shaft lengths, spline size, profile and count would have to be the the same as OEM application. You could confirm with Ashcroft or Barry at Hi-Tough.

[Sitec]

Shafts and CV's! Then intercooler.... Not long ago I fitted HiTough Shafts and Ashcroft CV's to my old 130.. So yes they can be interchanged. After I fitted the Ashcroft CV's I learned that the reason they withstand the abuse is they are not as hard as the factory item so don't crack, but they do wear at a greater rate.... I might be wrong on that fact but that's what someone said.. Still wouldnt put me off Ashcroft stuff tho as you hear nothing but good! My next investment will be a heavy duty Center Diff for an LT230... in the hopes that it'll withstand a Cummins!! If you went Ashcroft CV's and HiTough shafts (source at MLR), then the money you save would buy you an intercooler out of the UK... :)

[jabber]

I'd say first get an egt gauge, or some form of monitoring. Then go with the Ashcroft gear.

[MLD]

Gotta say that I do get little paranoid about breaking something with the front locker on.

Yeah the cvs/axles do make more sense.

I'm surprised that you considered an intercooler as an upgrade if you already have a front locker and running stock CV's/half shafts. To my mind the CV's/half shafts are essential with the locker if you want to play tough and drive home. Lucky8 on the verandah forum is still selling the cv/axle kit at an attractive price.

As an aside, I have a chipped TD5 and i've warped the exhaust manifold and busted a bolt. Keep an eye on your manifold if you get hot EGT's. You might have to upgrade the intercooler and adjust/increase the boost to find the balance of the extra fuel from the map.

cheers MLD

[noogie]

Yep had same problem fixed not long ago.

[Blade74]

Hey MLD and Noogie,

What map were you running and did either of you have a larger intercooler? Egr removed? What exhaust system? No cat?
Just I'm running a stage 3 TD5 inside map and have a larger intercooler (britpart - yes I know, but it doesn't leak and seems to work ok) and removed the EGR. I haven't touched my exhaust and don't have an EGT sensor to tell if its hot.
Should I be worried about warping the head?

[mools]

Blade,

The head doesn't warp due to high EGT, the exhaust manifold does. You can melt your pistons though :eek:

You'll only know how worried you should be in retrospect, once you have fitted a pyrometer. A lot comes down to driving style and individual vehicles vary too.

IMHO monitoring EGT is absolutely required if you chip a TD5. It's relatively cheap and both your vehicle and your driving style will benefit in the long term.

Ian.

[noogie]

Im not sure what map I have but I got thru trs in Adelaide.
I have a 3 inch exhaust with only a high flow at the rear and egr has been removed.
I ordered my egt gauge from us last night.
It's a digital gauge from Auberins usa.
Looking forward to having it put in. Just wondering how hot things have been.:eek:

[Blade74]

Hey noogie,

What items (probe and monitor) did you buy from them?
Prices seem ok. Might have to order a probe and meter.

[noogie]

If you go to auberin.com it's the combo egt.
You get the gauge the probe and exhaust plug which I'm gonna get welded into the dump pipe. The probe then screws into it.

You can get a stainless steel plug or carbon composite one for a mild steel exhaust. That's the one i got.

Bought it last night.
$103 landed.
I can send you the link tonight.
If you have problems finding it.

[uninformed]

it is preferable to have the proble before the turbo, in the exhaust manifold, where all four/five pots have converged. Mine is in the dump pipe, but if doing again I would try for the manifold. Post turbo numbers have to be lower than pre when watching your gauage, and its is not by one set amount of difference in temp.

[goingbush]

do it pre turbo, you are going to get some meaningful comparisons with other Td5's as I think most of us have them pre turbo. Mine is actually in the egr blanking plate, but a better place is just before the turbo.

[mools]

Mine is in the manifold just before the turbo. It can be drilled and tapped after the pipes converge. If you put it there you will want to be mindful of the angle you install it at if you want to put the turbo heat shield back on - otherwise throw it away!

Like others said - pre turbo is best. Personally I wouldn't consider putting it in the dump pipe for the sake of convenience, the figure you get will be of much less use. After all, once you have it in you will most probably drive to the EGT reading, more so than your revs. I found EGT became the limiting factor in my driving i.e. when to lay off the throttle or change gear. After a while, once you get used to a new style it just becomes second nature.

Back towards the topic though.

I have Ashcroft half shafts, CV's and flanges ready to go in and have been meaning to install them for a while now and change to oil lubed hubs too. I run a front locker and think I may be on borrowed time - especially as since getting the replacement parts I now fear breaking something a lot less and am a bit more flippant with engaging the front locker. It's amazing what having parts in stock does for your appetite for risk (what little I have).

BTW do the standard shafts and CV's have a second hand value?

Regarding the wear of the CV's mentioned a while back - there is a page / tutorial on Ashcrofts website about it. Apparently they are softer than the OEM and so deform (which is why they break less readily) which eventually results in a tendency to bind (I think?). The tutorial covers reworking them....

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/images/uploads/CV_joint_rework.pdf

Ian.

[Drover]

BTW do the standard shafts and CV's have a second hand value?]

Ian.

I sold my front 1/2 shafts with the stock CV's for $200 on this site, with 20,000km on them.

Still got the rears shafts.....any body ???

[noogie]

it is preferable to have the proble before the turbo, in the exhaust manifold, where all four/five pots have converged. Mine is in the dump pipe, but if doing again I would try for the manifold. Post turbo numbers have to be lower than pre when watching your gauage, and its is not by one set amount of difference in temp.
If it's installed pre turbo is it best to remove the turbo From air intake and ensure there are no metal pieces that can be ingested by the turbo?

[uninformed]

If it's installed pre turbo is it best to remove the turbo From air intake and ensure there are no metal pieces that can be ingested by the turbo?

I would say so, but not familiar with where its best put on a Td5. You can also grease up the drill bit so the swarf mostly sticks to it. Just dip and drill a bit, then remove and dip and drill. If the room is there you could also place a strong magnet right next to where you are drilling.

Goingbush or such should be able to provide better information than me

[flagg]

If it's installed pre turbo is it best to remove the turbo From air intake and ensure there are no metal pieces that can be ingested by the turbo?

Yes. Remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold and make sure there is no shavings before re-assembly.

[goingbush]

I would not worry about removing the turbo, a bit of swarf wont hurt.

if your concerned magnetise the drill bit and tap with a rare earth magnet
and drill the hole with a vacuum cleaner next to the drill bit.
and tap the same way.

no need to bother with grease

any dry swarf will just get blown out the dump pipe before the turbo gets a chance to spin up. wont hurt a bit

dont forget to buy the correct NPT tapered tap, about $50 locally.

[uninformed]

How much does a rare earth magnet cost? Where do you buy them?

[goingbush]

How much does a rare earth magnet cost? Where do you buy them?

one of these should do

Super Strong Round Circular Cylinder 25mm X 20 MM Magnet Rare Earth Neodymium | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Super-Strong-Round-Circular-Cylinder-25mm-x-20-mm-Magnet-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-/181173909597?pt=AU_Supplies&hash=item2a2ece785d&_uhb=1)

or do a search for Neodymium , they are strong suckers ,

[MLD]

Hey MLD and Noogie,

What map were you running and did either of you have a larger intercooler? Egr removed? What exhaust system? No cat?
Just I'm running a stage 3 TD5 inside map and have a larger intercooler (britpart - yes I know, but it doesn't leak and seems to work ok) and removed the EGR. I haven't touched my exhaust and don't have an EGT sensor to tell if its hot.
Should I be worried about warping the head?

Sorry for the delayed response.

In answer: Bruce Davis tune. Factory Intercooler. Factory exhaust. EGR blanking kit. Boost wound up a smidge to reduce overfuelling. Ian (Mools) covered the other issues eloquently.

On the long term acquisition list is an intercooler and umming and arring about the merits of a full exhaust or merely the removal of the centre muffler.

I agree that the EGT probe should be pre-turbo for accurate readings. Each to their own for methodology of drilling but to my mind removing the turbo is a prudent exercise.

Fixing a warped manifold can be expensive, as is my case when the bolt has snapped in the head, which involves a time taking removal of the bolt, cutting out the webbing, skimming the manifold and bolting it all back together.

cheers MLD