EGT Gauge sensor location

[noogie]

Hi all

I got my EGT gauge from the USA yesterday, and as previously mentioned on my other post, it was decided that the best location would be where all manifold pipes merge on the manifold.

I have attached a couple of pics in order to establish the best spot.
I'm thinking I'll mount it on the small raised circular spot just after where the pipes meet.

What do you think?
:D

[mools]

That'll do it. Will it fowl the turbo heat shield one installed? or are you going to throw that away? Mine is in the same position just angled back towards the bulkhead as my sensor is quite long. BTW it is the tip of the sensor that reads the temp so make sure the tip is in the center of the gas stream no touching the manifold and giving you the manifold temp reading.

Ian.

[noogie]

Thanks for that.
I can't see why I couldn't modify the heat shield so I don't have to lose it.
What gauge welding rod did you use for the manifold adaptor plug?

[mools]

I guess you could easily snip the shield, personally I've done away with mine.

Not sure what you mean with the welding rod. My sensor is mounted in a brass compression fitting tapped into the manifold, it has a tapered thread so is pretty much self sealing. I know next to nowt about welding. Interested to know how you intend to fit the probe though.

Ian.

[noogie]

I'll have a go at explaining it.
An 8mm hole is drilled into the mounting place.
Over this home you weld a special steel sleeve which the sensor probe feeds thru into the manifold. The probe is then fixed by a threaded coupling to the sleeve.

I hope that makes sense.

[Nick S]

Why not just drill and tap a hole in the manifold and use a compression fitting as Mools suggests, that way no need to weld

[noogie]

What's a compression fitting?
Any photos?

[Dougal]

What's a compression fitting?
Any photos?

Like this, there are several different styles but you need steel or stainless steel. Brass will soften and keep loosening at exhaust temps.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/684.jpg

[steveG]

There's some piccy's and instructions at the bottom of this page too:
EGT Probe, Exposed Tip [TC-KEGT] - $36.50 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry (http://www.auberins.com/index.php'main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=69)

Steve

[robbotd5]

Hey mate, just dump the turbo heat shield. Mine has been off for about 20000ks with no Ill effect. Along with the engine accoustic cover. A lot of that was towing our camper (23ft van!). Agreed about the ideal position for the sensor.
Regards
Robbo

[Dougal]

Just go in the side and miss the shield.

[noogie]

There's some piccy's and instructions at the bottom of this page too:
EGT Probe, Exposed Tip [TC-KEGT] - $36.50 : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry (http://www.auberins.com/index.php'main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=69)

Steve

Hi Steve
Thanks for the photos.
I didn't get that threaded part.
Seems like the sensible way to go.
Would you know if I could pick something like that up at the hardware / auto parts store?

Are you going to the defender County day this Sunday with Lrocv at westerfolds Park? :D

[noogie]

Like this, there are several different styles but you need steel or stainless steel. Brass will soften and keep loosening at exhaust temps.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/684.jpg

Thanks Dougal.
Do you reckon I can pick one of these up somewhere?

[steveG]

Hi Steve
Thanks for the photos.
I didn't get that threaded part.
Seems like the sensible way to go.
Would you know if I could pick something like that up at the hardware / auto parts store?

Are you going to the defender County day this Sunday with Lrocv at westerfolds Park? :D

Planning to be there, but if its a crap day its a long way to drive to stand in the rain. Will see how it goes.

You might get lucky with a fitting from the likes of Enzed/Pirtek, or a pneumatics place etc.

Steve

[Dougal]

Thanks Dougal.
Do you reckon I can pick one of these up somewhere?

Hydraulic hose and fitting shops are your best bet. Measure the probe first.

I have mine done up just tight enough that I can wrestle the probe back out if I ever do something different. If you tighten then further they crimp on and would need the nut and sleeve cut back off if you needed to use a different fitting.

[noogie]

Just had a thought.
Is the manifold made out of cast iron.
If so can I weld that fitting to the manifold?
It seems easy to do but not sure if you can weld to cast iron.

[Dougal]

Just had a thought.
Is the manifold made out of cast iron.
If so can I weld that fitting to the manifold?
It seems easy to do but not sure if you can weld to cast iron.

Just drill it, tap it and fit a compression fitting. Welding cast iron is just making the job bigger.

You can even drill and tap with the turbo in place. Cast iron swarf is fine and powdery, it blows through the turbine on startup without causing any problems.

[noogie]

Yeah. I agree. I'm take your advice on that.
Cheers
Mick

[rick130]

Just drill it, tap it and fit a compression fitting. Welding cast iron is just making the job bigger.

You can even drill and tap with the turbo in place. Cast iron swarf is fine and powdery, it blows through the turbine on startup without causing any problems.


Just use some grease on the drill and tap, it'll pick up most all the swarf anyway.

[Fraz]

Just drill it, tap it and fit a compression fitting. Welding cast iron is just making the job bigger.

You can even drill and tap with the turbo in place. Cast iron swarf is fine and powdery, it blows through the turbine on startup without causing any problems.

Would you actually do this? Havent drilled cast iron before, but the swarf worries me, for 10 mins to remove the turbo, would it not be worth removing it for piece of mind?

[Dougal]

Would you actually do this? Havent drilled cast iron before, but the swarf worries me, for 10 mins to remove the turbo, would it not be worth removing it for piece of mind?

Yes I would do it. I have drilled a manifold with the turbo attached, but they were in a vise at the time.

I can't get a turbo off in 10 minutes. More like 30 as bolts are invariably difficult to swing a spanner on and sometimes seized. Minimum of 6 connections (air in, air out, exhaust in, exhaust out, oil in, oil out).

[Fraz]

Did you find it easier to remove the whole manifold then?
10min might be an exaggeration (my turbo is new)

[Fraz]

Double post - My bad, silly internets

[Dougal]

Did you find it easier to remove the whole manifold then?
10min might be an exaggeration (my turbo is new)

I was swapping the manifold over from another engine, so it was off already. I'm sure in the time you've spent here you could have removed the turbo and drilled it already.:D