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mattmac
30th October 2013, 06:57 AM
I recently purchased a perentie softtop but it's missing the roofrack/cage -anyone know where i can get one?

weeds
30th October 2013, 08:41 AM
check if the rivnuts are still servicable, my bet is one or a couple are stuffed therefore the cage was left off

Bearman
30th October 2013, 08:51 PM
I recently purchased a perentie softtop but it's missing the roofrack/cage -anyone know where i can get one?

Easy enough to make one up with a bit of RHS, a tube bender and some weldmesh. Get the measurements from another vehicle.

cummo
7th November 2013, 09:58 AM
I've taken the mesh roof panel off my GS Cargo Perentie to remove the canvas for a minor repair and to make it easier to clean the mildew off.

My cage was fixed by 4 / M8 or 5/16'' cup-head square-shank bolts; 2 bolts up through the roll hoop at the front and 2 up through the rear canopy frame. Bolts are if slightly different lengths due to the cleat and hole arrangements of the mesh roof panel. There is a mating square recess in the two canopy frames to engage the bolt shanks to prevent the bolt shanks from turning. Not sure where Kelvin's (weeds) reference to rivnuts comes into play; I just assumed anchoring with the cup-head bolts was the O/E method.

On top of the canopy are rubber bushes on top of which the roof panel cleats and holes sit, with the panel restrained by washers and hex nuts.

When my mesh roof panel goes back on I will be replacing the bolts with new galvanised bolts & nuts, replacing the rubber bushes, and in addition to the tensioning hex nut I'll be fitting galvanised eyebolts to the ends of the bolts as tie-off points.

Figured there was no harm in this as I already can't fit in most covered carparks :)

weeds
7th November 2013, 10:08 AM
I've taken the mesh roof panel off my GS Cargo Perentie to remove the canvas for a minor repair and to make it easier to clean the mildew off.

My cage was fixed by 4 / M8 or 5/16'' cup-head square-shank bolts; 2 bolts up through the roll hoop at the front and 2 up through the rear canopy frame. Bolts are if slightly different lengths due to the cleat and hole arrangements of the mesh roof panel. There is a mating square recess in the two canopy frames to engage the bolt shanks to prevent the bolt shanks from turning. Not sure where Kelvin's (weeds) reference to rivnuts comes into play; I just assumed anchoring with the cup-head bolts was the O/E method.

On top of the canopy are rubber bushes on top of which the roof panel cleats and holes sit, with the panel restrained by washers and hex nuts.

When my mesh roof panel goes back on I will be replacing the bolts with new galvanised bolts & nuts, replacing the rubber bushes, and in addition to the tensioning hex nut I'll be fitting galvanised eyebolts to the ends of the bolts as tie-off points.

Figured there was no harm in this as I already can't fit in most covered carparks :)

umm, i will have to refresh my memory, i cannot recall bolts going right through the front ROP's.

my last job in chocko's was helping the truckies replace some canopies and i am certain i have to cut the head of the bolt off and fit riv-nuts. pretty sure there was an instruction to follow. its been a while and a few drinks so i would have to look at one.

jackz
7th November 2013, 10:14 AM
Both the front and rear bar on mine have 8mm Riv-nuts for the rack.

weeds
7th November 2013, 12:52 PM
Both the front and rear bar on mine have 8mm Riv-nuts for the rack.

phew....thought i was going crazy

if bolts are going right through the ROPS than i guess somebody has taken the easy route as you should drill or weld ROPS....well the front one anyway

jackz
7th November 2013, 03:33 PM
Drilling it is definitely not recommended! =-O

Jeff
7th November 2013, 07:35 PM
There are probably dozens left lying around at army bases around the country, leaning up against something, or hidden on top of something. Just like cargo barriers from white fleet.

Jeff

:rocket:

Barefoot Dave
7th November 2013, 08:30 PM
phew....thought i was going crazy

if bolts are going right through the ROPS than i guess somebody has taken the easy route as you should NOT drill or weld ROPS....well the front one anyway

Fixed it for ya, weeds.

jackz
7th November 2013, 08:37 PM
While on the subject of military tag-tops, many years ago I picked up, at a garage sale for $50, if I recall correctly, a khaki lwb canvas that seals to a channel on the rear of a Ute cab. The seller assured me it was ex military. It fits my 110 perfectly. Any idea what it would be off?

cummo
11th November 2013, 09:30 AM
Weeds,

The whole rivnut thing has me intrigued. Had a second look at the ROPS cage on my GS Cargo on the weekend; each connection for the roof cage is via a welded-in, internally square sleeve in the front and rear hoops. Additionally there is also a pair of the same sleeves (one each side) at the top corners of the folded "u"-section gusset plate covering the juncture between the front ROPS hoop and it's stays.

All sleeve installations are welded at both ends, the welds look well done, and the paint on the ROPS bar and rear hoop looks entire and original.

My truck is a 12/1988 model. I assumed the linternal sleeve arrangement was standard; my truck (I think) was from an Engineers detachment based out of, or near, Townsville. I can't think of any reason why their trucks would be any different.

Not concerned, just curious :D

Dave

weeds
11th November 2013, 09:38 AM
Weeds,

The whole rivnut thing has me intrigued. Had a second look at the ROPS cage on my GS Cargo on the weekend; each connection for the roof cage is via a welded-in, internally square sleeve in the front and rear hoops. Additionally there is also a pair of the same sleeves (one each side) at the top corners of the folded "u"-section gusset plate covering the juncture between the front ROPS hoop and it's stays.

All sleeve installations are welded at both ends, the welds look well done, and the paint on the ROPS bar and rear hoop looks entire and original.

My truck is a 12/1988 model. I assumed the linternal sleeve arrangement was standard; my truck (I think) was from an Engineers detachment based out of, or near, Townsville. I can't think of any reason why their trucks would be any different.

Not concerned, just curious :D

Dave

can only go off my dodgey memory.........knowing the ARMY there is probably a few different options......

my question is how do all the rig pass safety certifiacte without a mod plate......pretty sure having ROPS fitted after manufacture would need a blue plate fitted......just saying