Rustproofing for the beach

[VladTepes]

I'm sure you people can help me.
Why am I sure? Because I have blind faith to keep me going style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif

What do you people do to protect your chassis from rusting when using the vehicle on the beach :?:

A simple spray with oil surely won't work so well when there is a box section involved as the rust can start inside and work its way out.

My Defender hasn't done any beach work yet (no, really !) but I am planning to change that VERY shortly.

So talk to me my people. What advice can you give me :?:

[incisor]

www.erps.com.au

one of many options, look past the electronic stuff to the lanolin based stuff as well

there should be a heap of links in the web links area

[Pedro_The_Swift]

not to get too technical,,

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">lots</span>

of water,
and I mean hours of it

you already have a distinct advantage with the full ally body,,

just crawl under there with a large hose and blast away for a day or two,,

:wink:

there was somthing I saw on TV with a fixed line through the chassis that sprays water inside it. just plug the hose on one end.

[VladTepes]

Good, good. Keep it coming.

What do YOU (yes, I mean YOU reader) do after (and in preparation for) a trip on the beach ?

[Phoenix]

After I was at the beach last, I did what pedro suggested.

Parked it on the grass and went nuts with the hose a couple of times on the underside and other places where sand might have stuck.

[bigbugga]

Dont do anything to get ready for the beach apart from getting in the Disco.

Once home I do as Pedro said, underneath with the hose and spray like crazy.
I have one of the high presure ends for my hose and it helps to reach up into everywhere.

Surprising where the sand sticks to, but after doing a few times I have gotten use to the hiding places and attack them first.


Lanolin is always a great idea, spray it everywhere.

[tracker]

I just park over the garden sprinkler and let the thing run for at least 3 scooners. Dont like high pressure machines ,they tend to fill unis etc with water and cause problems later.Dont hurt to race around with a grease gun also.

[bigbugga]

Not the machine unit.

One of those extended pipes that increase the presure from a normal hose.

Not hard enough that you have to brace your wrist but good enough to get the sand out.

[Mick-Kelly]

Hmm interesting. I always used the sprinkler method myself and never got rust but plumbing in some hose conecters to the inside of the chassis rails is a damn good idea. Once the waters in though how would you dry it out.

[VladTepes]

Lanolin you say ?
Where does one obtain said Lanolin and how would one apply it?

[bigbugga]

Originally posted by VladTepes
Lanolin you say ?
Where does one obtain said Lanolin and how would one apply it?


Milk a sheep :twisted:








It is the oil that comes from wool, should be able to buy it from almost any spare parts shop.

Comes as a greese, oil and spray.

Also good for leather's, bike wet weather gear, and a host of other thing's.

Hope I get paid for this add.

[VladTepes]

[quote="bigbugga
Also good for leather's, bike wet weather gear, and a host of other thing's.
[/quote]

Great, now you've got me lusting after a motorcycle again and I can't even afford this landrover habit :!: :x

[bigbugga]

some links for lanolin

http://www.lanolin.co.nz/lanolin.htm

I think OL have this brand
http://www.nrrbs.com.au/paintlanoguard.htm

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Is lanolin sticky?

grease, oil, and spray


style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif

[one_iota]

The Lanolin based stuff is supposed to be good, I've seen it in accessory shops. No unnatural chemicals. All natural sheep based.

I'd just be worried about fly-strike and having to "dip" the disco and have it mulesed.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I'd be more worried about the kelpie trying to round up the disco and stick it in a jam tin,,,


:wink:

[one_iota]

Originally posted by Pedro_The_Swift
I'd be more worried about the kelpie trying to round up the disco and stick it in a jam tin,,,


:wink:

I'd have to sell the Disco and buy a Defender Ute to hijack the kelpie....

:twisted: Now there is a thought for the Disco:

A little angle grinding, some welding and a tray back 8O

[fernockulated]

Originally posted by one_iota


I'd have to sell the Disco and buy a Defender Ute to hijack the kelpie....

:twisted: Now there is a thought for the Disco:

A little angle grinding, some welding and a tray back 8O



sounds like my sort of transmogrification :twisted: style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif

[bigbugga]

[quote="bigbugga
Also good for leather's, bike wet weather gear, and a host of other thing's.


Great, now you've got me lusting after a motorcycle again and I can't even afford this landrover habit :!: :x[/quote]


I have been lusting after the new trumpie.

The big one, 2.4litre i think it is. 8O

Soon to be out here.

[Jojo]

In Northern Europe we don't drive our vehicles on the beach but on salty roads during winter. And there is no chance of hosing down the salt all the time. Car wash visits become expensive if you have to do it on a daily basis.
There are good corrosion protection treatments available (though I don't know if they are available in Oz as well), like Tuff Kote Dinol, Mike Sanders or the like. Mainly wax based liquid chemicals that penetrate even in the smallest fold or gap. Best results you'll achieve in warm weather. Another very good treatment, although you have to renew it every now and then, is linseed oil. Spray (with an airbrush) or brush it on liberally, soak all the exposed parts of your vehicle and don't forget the inside of the chassis.
After having treated your vehicle you have to stay off your mother-in-law's driveway for at least a week :!: , otherwise you'll run into trouble since your Landrover's territory marking habits will definitely get worse.

[Timmo]

Supa cheap sell an INOX anti rust spray which is lanolin based (not normal inox)......I spray it everywhere underneath...smells a little..

don't get any on the hotter parts of the exhaust system or it STINKS as it burns off.....

Also i control myself on the beach, and won't go through any water...tidal pools or anything....coz it just destroys cars....

Have seen some rangie utes.....would like to see a disco one.......not volunteering my rig though.....

[DionM]

Last time I went on the beach, I prepared it by ... hiring a rental 4WD style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif The Freelander stays well away from the beach.

Now we have the Rangie, it will go on the beach. As others said, I will be giving it a good wash afterwards. Even better is if you can find a nice deep pool of fresh water to drive through ...

I've also bought some $2 cans of fish oil from Supercheap ... can't hurt.

[VladTepes]

My father-in-law was telling me that at one time in the dim past he replaced the chassis on his series Landie. When he first got the chassis he filled it with fishoilene and turned it over every which way, rinse and repeat several times. He says the chassis is still probably out there in good nick.

Not sure if I like the idea of 'turning the chassis over every which way' with the rest of the landie still attached though. It could hurt a bit. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif

[tracker]

just a point on lanolin. We spray the boat trailer with this stuff and it stops rust dead.We use loniolin grease on the springs and that doubles the life of them(at least).Every time (bout twice a week ) the trailer is used it is allmost totaly submerged to drive on/off.The lights and every thing is covered. Trailers ae galv. when new but if we get 5 years before replacement we are doing well.The current trailer on the centre console is 7 years old and (quite) good.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Sounds good tracker,,
does sand stick to it though???

on a different note,

where do you take the boat?

[tracker]

Pedro,
being put out to pasture gives me the time to put boat anywhere from Brunswick heads to cooktown.
local around cleveland to all points east.
about the sand ,seems to be ok,just drops off on our crap roads here.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Might have to drag it up to Boonooroo,,,

Someone gotta teach me how to catch fish,, :wink:

I usually just wander over to S36,
put my feet up and nod off,,, style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

[LandyAndy]

Hi guys
Gravel roads are just as bad if not worse than beaches.The dust builds up in your chassis,especially outriggers and just sits there nice and cosy dry until winter,then gets wet and works away rusting from inside to out till next summer until it drys out again.It is really worth the time crawling around under your Landy finding somewhere to stick your hose!!!!
Cheers
Andrew

[tracker]

pedro,
been up your way crabbing. not a good place for a half ****ed half blind ol bastard who just keeps polishing the prop. some of the markers are sure hard to find.good muddies though.

[VladTepes]

Local rustproofing place usually do Nissans and toy motors - I asked whether their system would reach all the crevices in a box section chassis in a Landy but they don't know as they apparently haven't done one before.

Hardly inspires me to spend $300.

So about this Lanolin spray.
How often does it need to be applied and how do you spray it on - ie what type of sprayer do you use ?

Thanks.

[bigbugga]

It comes in pump packs or presuised packs.

Also comes as a grease mix.

Apply it when needed, all depends on you and your car.

[Sam]

Just a point on Lanolin. It appears to be affected by heat which has its good and bad points.

When the temp gets above 42°C in the shed the lanolin grease changes to a liquid. No doubt the spray form would reduce in viscosity as well. This would be good to get into all of the crevises (sp), but I am not sure if it would all run out on the ground during a hot day.

Everyone on the coast should be OK as its rare to get above 40.

So for all you guys on the coast who want good rust prevention, bring your landy out to western Qld in late January, tip it upside down, liberally apply lanolin in the morning, bake vehicle for 10hrs @ 45°C, right the vehicle just on dark and drive back to the coast during the cool of the night.

Should be right for 5yrs plus I reckon.

[bigbugga]

Thanks for that Sam, some good info.

Normally is over 35 deg here on a cool day as well.
But up till now I havnt thought about the heat affecting it at all.

Will keep an eye on it.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Originally posted by Sam

So for all you guys on the coast who want good rust prevention, bring your landy out to western Qld in late January, tip it upside down, liberally apply lanolin in the morning, bake vehicle for 10hrs @ 45°C,
Should be right for 5yrs plus I reckon.

Sam,,

you are a dead set legend,,

where do we go to turn our landies upside down??

:wink:

[barryj]

I have owned 3 landies to date and am about to buy another. I found that my series 3 had zero rust in the chassis especially around any mechanical parts, you know that landrovers drip more oil than they burn, well this seems to be a great rust preventative!

I mix about 50 - 50 clean engine oil with diesel and spray this under the vehicle lightly but evenly over and through any steel parts. Some common sense is required especially near brake parts, rubber, and electrical parts.

I do this one week before I go on the beach and when I return I do not high pressure hose the vehicle. It seems unnatural to force sand and salt into areas - just hose well. Let it all dry out for another week and then ligtly re-oil again. I use an engine degreaser gun with an air compressor but any sprayer is good. A mate of mine uses a garden type sprayer with good success.

The greenies may cringe at the thought that oil may pollute the environment but what cost would it be to have rusty vehicles about?

Well this works for me. Fraser Island would not be the same without landies!

8)

[Michael2]

I think Barry's summed it up. If you have a real Land Rover, they come with factory fitted self lubricating chassis 8) (aka oil leaks).

Barrys idea of sump oil and deisel works well. Drive the Land Rover on a dusty road after you've sprayed it and the dust will stick to the oil creating a tacky paste barrier. After your trip spray under the car with 2-3 cans of oven cleaner :idea: , then rinse off (personally I use high pressure :roll: ). Squirting your sump oil into the chassis rails (in moderation) is also a good preservative :wink: .

[shaunp]

I always do them with Tectyle thinned with white spirit for all the cavities and joints in engine bay. Then spray the outside of the under carrige with either Tectyle mixed with quick dry black enamel or Septone under body rust proofing (which I think is Septone rust wax mixed with black enamel). You can buy a rust proofing/splater gun from any refinishing suppier for about $40, if you have a compressor your laughing. It was a rep for septone who put me on to the black enamel mix he reckons that's what most rust proof mobs do. You need to drill the holes in the sill a bit bigger to get the hose in.

[Hellspawn]

Would have to agree with all that, though just add you'll never get 100% protection unless you go to gal. dipping. Normally only done at rebuild, the chassis, bulkhead and frame work of doors, hood and wheel rims are sand blasted, then whipped off to the gal. factory for a good coat of shine. If the factory is on the ball there is no or little warp afterwards and is the ultimate as everywhere gets a coating. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

Whatever preventive is used it needs to be absorbed into the steel and I'm not sure many suggested do that. Most "oils" I would think would wash off in the rain, dust or gravel during daily driving let alone when the vehicle is cleaned after the beach so will begin rusting either way. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif

My suggestion is a good wash and if really worried lift the body off and get the mentioned gal'd. There's a gal factory in Brisbane near Meeandah or Pinkenbar, forgotten exactly where, if you want to get a quote.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

tectyl from the aerosol can works great,,,

half a dozen cans would just about cover it,( :wink: )

[VladTepes]

Why the wink ?

Are you not being serious ? I never know. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif

[Pedro_The_Swift]

oh vlad,,

cover it was a joke,,,, style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

but still true....,,

it was of one of those sayings,,,, :?: :!: :?:

[VladTepes]

Sorry I'm apparently not awake.

I gather then that you believe that 6 cans would be adequate ? It's just that I'm going beach driving next month and want to be "protected" but may not get a chance to buy compressors etc in the meantime.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

open both eyes,,,,,


tectyl, is a wonderful anti rust/water agent,,,,

u could do worse than get under the dfender with 6 cans and go crazy,,,

just dont get any in your eyes,,,,, 8O

[VladTepes]

Where do I buy it ? Bunnings or somewhere like that ?
What should I NOT spray ? I presume things like the exhaust would be a good place not to spray... any others ?
What should I spray apart from the chassis ?

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Keep away from things that get hot,,,
everything else is open slather,,

usual thing with anti rust stuff,,
use about 400 times more than required,,,

from every conceivable angle,
cause the salt will,,,

style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif

afterwoods ,
hose for 3 days and nights,,,
no-, really,,,,
8)

[Hellspawn]

Most town water along the coast(s) has salt in it. 8O Albeit less salt than that on the beach sand, still.... fact is any vehicle near the coast or on the coast will without serious treatment. Cans of spray will only do so much.

Suppose you could always trade it in before the rust starts to appear and get another defenda. :wink:

[VladTepes]

Mate now you're starting to depress me :cry:

At least I can slow the process down..... style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif

I can't afford to trade it in.

Besides - then I'd have to start all over again.

[shaunp]

I use 4L in the cavities and 4L mixed with black on the underside on Disco's. Vlad where in Brisbane are you.

[VladTepes]

I am at Redcliffe (northside), but "Have Ute, Will travel".

Why ?

[shaunp]

Dad is looking at a TDI disco at the moment so I may be doing one in the next couple of weeks. I'm the other side of the Gate bridge at Wynnum.

[incisor]

might make a party of it!

i need mine done too!

[VladTepes]

Sounds good to me, shaunp. I'd be grateful.

It will give you a good chance to take the **** out of my Defender too, thus joining the not-so-exclusive AULRO "lampoon Vlad's car" club. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif

[shaunp]

We'll see what happens with this Disco that Dad is trying to buy, it's becoming a bit long winded, I don't want to kill off the little grass I have left doing to many cars. We will try and work something out once we get the car. I have a couple of panel repairs to do on it first , bit of rust on one alpine light , dent in the bottom of a rear gard from hitting something of road and a couple stress cracks to mig up and I'll give it a cut with a waffle pad. Bring your own products and a carton of Gold for me to drink while I watch you get dirty.

[VladTepes]

8O What would I be getting for my carton, then :?: :?

[incisor]

Originally posted by shaunp
couple stress cracks to mig up .

where are these hiding ?

[shaunp]

You can get dirty( because I'll get dirty enough on the old mans car) useing my compressor and guns while killing my grass, you can drink some to, I won't be able to drink it all because I'll have already drunk the carton Dad brings. You won't use 4L of Tectyle on a tray back I don't reckon, there's not much on the cab to do only 2 doors and fire wall and any cavities like pillars etc. Chassis is about the same as a disco. Again the septone under body rust proof you won't use 4L either because you really only coat the outside of chassis and floor pan of the cab + the wheel arches. May get away with 4L of Tectyle and some quick dry emamel to mix with it for the under side but you will be cutting it fine. You really can't rust proof them properly with pressure packs, these are ok for doors but the chassis you really need to blast it in with a decent compressor and hose type gun. If I blow it in one end off the chassis with my gun you get fog at the other end of the car so I reckon if you do this in all the holes in the chassis they should be right. Tectyle keeps for years so it doesn't matter if you don't use it all in one go. I do my car every 3 years or so. I don't have dregs left at the moment because I used them on a mates Disco a couple of month back before he went to the Kimberlies. I'll get 4L of each for Dad's car but on a wagon I'll probably use most of that seeing as is has never been done before I like to flood them. You get pretty messy but at least you don't smell like fisholene afterwards and you will be water proof. I might peg out one of those plastic drop sheets on the grass this time I think, because I really sorted the lawn last time.

[Hellspawn]

Cheer up Vlad, it's only a machine and that's why series are such great value, don't lose some much if something happens. In any case you'd unbolt everything you did to the current one before trade in and keep it for the next one. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif

So what's the story with the electronic gizmo things .... "counteract" or something they call it :?: Aren't they supposed to do wonderful things like electrify your car or make it glow at night to stop rust from attacking.

Anyone know much about them whilst we're at it :?:

[incisor]

ERPS is supposedly better than counteract..

counteract have changed their name for some reason. i cannot remember what they changed it too. I bought some of their t2000 precleaner and teflon polish. the quickest way i have ever seen to polish a vehicle up to sparkleing.

ERPS is now user fittable. you can supposedly tell the setup is working because your paint doesnt oxidize.

http://www.erps.com.au/

[shaunp]

Get away with you, makes the paint shinny, does it wash it and vacuum the sand out as well.

[shaunp]

Incisor
Disco's can crack in the rear wheel archs in the door opening at the top and at the bottom of the arch, they also crack on the front inner mud gaurds on the side where they join the radiator support panel at the bottom just above the chassis. This is typical of cars that have done a lot of high speed dirt work. At least it's not like a Cruiser they crack the chassis just forward of the front footwell.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

*me runs outside*
after that 6 month stint through the forest i thought oh oh,,,
but no, no cracks,,

there IS a big ( golf ball ) hole on the nav side rear showing where the body mounts to the chasis,,,
but thats just rocks and rust, 8)

[shaunp]

I think it is high speed over corogations that do it but not sure. I've seen a few country cars with it. Its not a drama just drill a hole at the end and then hit it with the mig. The wheel arch one you can see when you open the door so you need to give the weld grind , wipe of bog and wet the arch/jamb in.

[VladTepes]

Originally posted by shaunp
You can get dirty( because I'll get dirty enough on the old mans car) useing my compressor and guns while killing my grass, you can drink some to, I won't be able to drink it all because I'll have already drunk the carton Dad brings. You won't use 4L of Tectyle on a tray back I don't reckon, there's not much on the cab to do only 2 doors and fire wall and any cavities like pillars etc.

Fair 'enuff. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif

What size (hp) comporessor have you got ?

How do you attack the pillars and doors - does trim need to be removed, because that scares me (see other threads about dramas with removing and refitting door trims).



Originally posted by Hellspawn
Cheer up Vlad, it's only a machine and that's why series are such great value, don't lose some much if something happens. In any case you'd unbolt everything you did to the current one before trade in and keep it for the next one.

Yeah but some of it won't fit if I'm lucky enough to get a TD5 next time. But that's well over the horizon so I'd prefer to keep this one as long as possible thanks.

And as for a Series being a better loss proposition:

1. My Defender is a daily driver and a little but more comfortable than a series.

2. Don't ever contemplate that a series is disposable. They should be kept and revived for ever. Please.

[shaunp]

Not one of the crap ones you buy a Supa cheap for $100 I've got 3 cylinder 15CFM, I had it made with a bit bigger tank and a clisby pump that you can rebuild. I have had it since the early 90's, I used to buy, repair and sell damaged cars, it's done heaps of work but is still fine. Now it's just getts used for the odd touch up, degrease and rust proofing.

[Hellspawn]

I guess.... it is said a vehicle looked after will last your whole life.

And I give up. :roll:

[VladTepes]

You guess what :?:

You give up what :?: :?

[shaunp]

Dad got the TDI Disco a week or so back, I have repaired the rust under the alpine window rubber and we gave it a cut and full detail. Looks like a new one. $17500 97 mod 160km with ARB winch bar, sidesteps, snorkel, rack, dual bats, Twine shower,alarm and Wangler MT/R tyres. Drives tight as, the car has full service history mostly from Blue ribbon LR at Ipswich ,just had new LR shocks, timing belt and disc rotors in the last 15k. Needs a tow bar. I guess it will get rust proofed in the next few weeks, never been on the beach by the look, but it is full of red dust. Needs a couple of bitts of plastic trim, going to see Murray at Jag and Rover tomorow and rat around his wrecks, it should be sweet then.

[VladTepes]

Just tell me when and where the rustproofing party is, and what I need to bring.... style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif

[welshman]

Just about to rust proof Lanotech seems the way i will be going just need to find the entry points as per the manual (rust prevention) the diagrams r not that user friendly.
Also taken the door panels of seems a bit risky will they ever go back on again the same without liquid nails ??
Any pointers ??

[tombraider]

Originally posted by barryj
The greenies may cringe at the thought that oil may pollute the environment but what cost would it be to have rusty vehicles about?
8)

Mate you brought a tear to my eye with this one https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Whats rust?! The returning of metal to its natural state!

So very green! https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Cheers
Mike

[VladTepes]

Tis not to its natural state - its natural state is as iron ore.

Rust (eventually) retruns it to its constituent atoms though, but you have to wait a while and none of us have enough time to watch !

[abaddonxi]

Originally posted by VladTepes
Tis not to its natural state - its natural state is as iron ore.

Rust (eventually) retruns it to its constituent atoms though, but you have to wait a while and none of us have enough time to watch !

If you've got the beer, I've got the time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Simon